AUGUST 2010

Rottneros to Mora, Dalarna, Sweden     Mora Parken Hotel & Camping     225 SK     124 miles

Travelling ever-north on the Inlandsvagen (E45), we drove through Sunne and the length of Lake Fryken to Torsby. After 23 miles we passed Torsby Camping by the lake, which looked full (both camping and lake, that is!) Three miles later we stopped at a large and busy ICA supermarket, open 9 am to 9 pm today (Sunday). For the best deals, ask for a customer card and fill in a form.

Continuing north, we climbed to over 1,000 ft/300 m before dropping back to 500 ft to cross the Klaralven River in Stollet at 50 miles. Here was a crossroads with another long-distance route - road 62 - from Karlstad to Norway. There are many Norwegian tourists on the roads and campsites here in Sweden, perhaps coming to enjoy cheaper prices as well as gentler scenery. At 60 miles, having climbed gradually above 1,500 ft/455 m, we left Varmland and entered Dalarna, the Province that is Sweden's heartland: open meadowland, lush vegetation and tiny lakeside villages. It's also a very popular summer holiday area, especially around Lake Siljan where we were headed, though by mid-August the peak season will be over.

The hills are not steep but we'd left the lowlands behind, reaching 1,686 ft/510 m before descending to cross yet another fast-flowing river into Malung at 78 miles. We checked a small campsite by a lakeside restaurant on the right at Johannisholm but the only space looked too soft and muddy for our 6 tons, so on we drove to the tourist town of Mora. Poised between Lake Siljan to the south and the smaller Lake Orsa to the north, Mora is at the junction of our favourite E45 and the E70 (Stockholm to Norway). It's also an important railway town: the start of the Inlandsbanan, the single-track summer-only railway which parallels the Inlandsvagen, beyond the Arctic Circle to Swedish Lapland.

Inevitably, Mora was busy. Driving through the centre on E45, there was free car parking on the right, overlooking the lake, with a 12-hour limit: suitable for smaller vans but no room for us. Following a sign for caravans off to the left, we found a large empty school car park that forbade parking between 2200 hrs and 0600 hrs. Unsure of the rule's enforcement – and even more unsure of the lone gipsy caravan in a corner – we opted for a night on Mora's official campsite, just north of the town centre (signed from E45 and Caravan Club-listed).

This huge all-year site is behind the Mora Parken hotel/conference/sports centre, where you check in to get a barrier card, electricity box key, code number for the kitchen etc and 2 pages of instructions in English to use the free WiFi. Most of the pitches (and all the many cabins) were taken but we were allocated a square of grass for the night. The facilities were admittedly good, if stretched, with free showers and clothes drying room, though we didn't queue for the dishwasher!

The same site had been much quieter during our previous visit (mid-October 2006), when we'd strolled into the town, famous for its knives and taps, and learnt more of its history. The walk led past the church and through Zorn Gardens, outside the Zorn Museum – the turn of the century (1900) home of Anders Zorn (see www.zorn.se for info on the artist). The centre of Mora has an extensive pedestrian shopping centre, with the usual supermarkets (ICA and Co-op) and Intersport (for all your winter sports kit). The bookshop had some English books but prices were double their sterling value.

Lake Siljan and the surrounding area lie in the ring created by the impact of Europe's biggest meteorite, estimated to have been 2.5 km (over 1.5 miles) wide. The depression is 75 km in diameter (that's 47 miles). The depth from the hilltops of the surrounding crater rim to the lake bottom is over 400 m (1,320 ft). The meteorite struck the earth at a speed of 15 km (nearly 10 miles) per second, some 360 million years ago, with a force equal to 500 million atomic bombs. Yes, we read the Lake Siljan information leaflet and were impressed! Visit www.siljan.se for more.

In winter there is downhill ski-ing here on the crater slopes, and the world's biggest cross-country ski race is held over the first weekend in March (the 50-mile route passing through the campsite!) See www.vasaloppet.se for details. There is also 3 months of safe outdoor skating on Lake Orsa! Being shallow, the lakes are fast to freeze and yet they warm up enough for swimming in summer.

The Lake Siljan area is also famous for its wooden Dala horses, carved and hand-painted in bright colours in a variety of sizes. They originated as children's toys, whittled in forest huts on long winter evenings since the 17thC. After their success at the 1939 World Fair in New York, they became a symbol of Sweden and an expensive collector's item, priced beyond the reach of children (or pensioners)! There were none on sale in the toy shop in Mora. Nowadays, they are made at just 2 workshops in the village of Nusnas on the east side of Lake Siljan and sold at high-class gift shops.

Just 1.5 miles back to E45 Inlandsvagen and the journey north. After crossing the river we stopped at a shopping centre by a roundabout, having driven all of 5 miles. Mostly non-food (the ICA supermarket lies on E45 to the south of town) and fuel, though the Dollar Store was worth a look, with some edible items at bargain prices (biscuits, pasta and Bassett's liquorice allsorts now fill our remaining locker space!) We also bought a rechargeable 2-million-candle-power torch (a replacement for one which had just died) and more DVD films for those long winter nights. An early McLunch saw us on our way, reflecting that we cycle further than this before needing food!

The 2-lane Inlandsvagen, which never did have a shoulder, is even narrower north of Mora – a thin ribbon of tar stretching to infinity through the dense forest, occasionally crossing the track of the Inlandsbanan railway. We followed the east side of Lake Orsa for 7 miles, past a sign for the giant all-year all-singing all-dancing Orsa Camping. The Orsa Bear Park, high in the forest at Gronklitt, 10 miles west, now includes Siberian tigers and polar bears at 'Polar World'. Visit www.orsagronklitt.se and use Camping Card Scandinavia for a 10% discount if you must.  We didn't make the detour, sufficiently disillusioned on our previous visit in the simpler days of August 1999:

“The bear park turned out to be 10 miles off the beaten track (literally), high in the forest at Grönklitt, a makeshift, wooden ski-ing and hiking centre with restaurant, youth hostel, chalets and car parks bulldozed through the trees. We parked for lunch and walked to the Bear Park entrance but left without paying £5 each to watch wolves and bears begging for their food when they should be roaming in the wild. A free glimpse through the binoculars of 2 bears at the feeding station, below a viewing platform crowded with visitors, was enough.”

The hills to the west became more serious, clad in forest where Brown Bears (and hunters) still roam. We reached 1,800 ft/545 m before dropping to Noppikospi at 1,143 ft/350 m, 40 miles from Mora. It has a lovely 'Rastplats' (but No Camping) on the left by a restaurant and youth hostel. Taking a tea break, we had a short walk to the broad waterfall that caused log-jams when the Ore River was used for floating timber. Driving on, we crossed the Ore (boundary between Dalarna and Gavleborg Provinces), welcomed by a Bear warning sign as we climbed ever north.

At 57 miles we passed a small quiet campsite by the lake at Tandsjoborg. Remaining well above 1,000 ft, the next landmark was entering the large Province of Jamtland at 71 miles. The sense of space, distance and light enticed us along the ever quieter road to the lovely little town of Sveg. Its Caravan Club-listed campsite lies on the river bank, next to a restaurant and ICA supermarket in the town centre (turn left at the traffic lights).

The only internet provision (but not WiFi) is at the modern public library opposite, freely open weekdays from noon till 7 pm (or 4 pm in winter), with a fierce stuffed bear in the foyer, as well as an art gallery.

A rain shower was reflected in a double rainbow over the lake in the early evening sunshine. Taking a walk round the town, there are wide streets, substantial wooden merchants' houses and a bronze statue of the Unknown Woodcutter by the 19thC church. Strangely, this is now overlooked by a huge new 'Trojan Horse' of a Brown Bear (Ursus Arctos), the regional emblem, solidly built from blocks of timber sponsored by local firms. A ladder ascends into its belly but the trap-door was padlocked. Apparently it's the biggest wooden bear in the world!  

Sveg to Lit, Jamtland, Sweden     Lits Camping & Little Lake Hill Canoe Center     190 SK     135 miles

The E45 Inlandsvagen turns east from Sveg for 20 miles to Aspan village, then runs north once more. In Ytterhogdal, 8 miles on, there was ample space to park on both sides of the road, with a nice little café on the right advertising 'Free Parking 24 hrs'. Leaving the village we remembered pausing once before to photograph the beauty of the church and cemetery on the left reflected in the mirror of the lake.

We continued through the eternally beautiful forest of pine and silver birch, with an occasional glimpse of the railway line through a clearing where lumberjacks had been at work. Bypassing Ratan, at the foot of the next lake 25 miles later, we stopped for lunch in Asarna at 68 miles, parking on the right by a Ski Centre/restaurant with small campsite.

After passing a timber yard and laminate factory, the forest gradually relented, giving way to a farming belt with grazing cattle, making the most of the short time outdoors. Their winter fodder was already garnered in white shrink-wrapped bales piled in the freshly cut meadows. At 78 miles (alt 1,200 ft/365 m) at Svenstavik we reached the foot of the south-west arm of Storsjon (Great Lake) – home to Sweden's own 'Loch Ness Monster' legend. 30 miles later at Brunflo E45 joined the busier E14 (from Sundsvall on the east coast of Sweden) to form a new dual carriageway that bypasses Ostersund (cycles banned and diverted into the town on the old road). After 11 miles, our E45 veered northwards, leaving E14 on its way west to Norway.

First, we did turn off into Ostersund itself, a large town on the east bank of the Storsjon, and circled the centre without finding Sweden's northernmost Lidl store, though we did spot the last McDonalds by a roundabout on E45. (We remembered, too late, that Lidl is on the old main road, about a mile south of the town, near the huge all-year ever-busy Ostersunds Camping.)

Escaping the crowds, we drove another 13 miles to the peaceful riverside campsite at Lits, signed on the right of E45 just before the village. Here, as Ove & Romy say on their delightful hand-drawn map: 'Enjoy yourself and feel good'. Or as the Caravan Club guide put it: 'Good alternative to Ostersund in high season'.   

At Lit, Jamtland, Sweden     Lits Camping & Little Lake Hill Canoe Center

It was easy to pass a couple of showery days at Lit. The laundry has automatic washing machines for 10 SK (about €1 or less than one pound), while the tumble drier and drying cabinet are free. There is canoeing, lake swimming, tennis … and a footpath leading under the E45 and over the railway into the village, with basic shops. Free WiFi reached our motorhome, enabling us to listen to Radio 4 (what a treat), and the local TV signal brought us evening entertainment in the form of yet more 'Midsomer Murders'! Another world.

A 25-mile cycle ride took us east along the Indalsalven Lake to Handog, from where the quietest of roads climbed steadily through forest and meadows up the Harkum River to Nyby, rising almost 700 ft to 1,430 ft. Both settlements consisted of a scatter of houses, a bus stop and a community hall. The wooden bus shelters are substantial, with windows and seat – ideal for cyclists. Sadly, the sign offering hot dogs and drinks inside the shelter at Nyby was faded and the community hall closed today – but at least it was downhill all the way back, with a tail wind. Interestingly, a milestone gave a distance of 2 Mil from Nyby to Lit, recalling that the old Swedish mile is about 10 km. Perhaps the distance a reindeer can pull a sleigh in a day?

Lit to Vilhelmina, Vasterbotten (W Bothnia), Sweden     Kolgardens Camping     175 SK     132 miles

From Lit (at 740 ft) the E45 climbed northwards, reaching 1,600 ft in the high forest before descending to Hammerdal (1,160 ft) after 27 miles. This village is home to a concrete factory, fire station, supermarket, fuel and campsite, all before the road bridges a shallow lake clothed in water lilies.

Driving on into the town, a P-Caravan sign on the right led to an area next to the Sport Hall/Library/Baths, with no time limits. We had lunch and shopped at the nearby Co-op before continuing up E45 to Hoting, at 79 miles. This smaller town had plenty of parking space at the Bil (Car) Museum, with a No Camping sign (there's a small campsite opposite). Swedes seem fond of veteran cars, or anything from the States - we've seen many modern Chevvie and Dodge vans and well-preserved American cars from the immediate post-war era. The Statoil fuel station here had just one automatic pump with petrol or diesel (LPG is very rare). It did accept our credit card, cutting off at 495 SK, but allowed a second fill. Petrol cost the equivalent of 1.17 pounds/litre, the price gradually rising as we go north, but still less than in the UK right now.

At 90 miles we left Jamtland for the Province of Vasterbotten (West Bothnia), also signed 'Lappland'. The E45 turned briefly east through Dorotea – southern portal of Lapland on Bergvattensjon Lake - where Doro Camping, a caravan dealer, tourist office, hunting & fishing museum, the Polar caravan factory and caravan museum, were clustered along the highway! It also had shops, fuel and a railway station – quite a list for such a small town. Turning north again at 97 miles (and exactly 1,000 ft high), there is another campsite (and a large rest area) 17 miles on at the village of Meselfors.

At 129 miles we reached Vilhelmina, another lovely little lakeside town, home to 4,000 residents. Camping Saiva is signed on the right as you enter but we drove on 2 miles, to turn left on the Sagavagen (part of the Wilderness Road). A mile along at Lovliden is a real gem of a campsite on the north shore of Lake Volgsjon. With free WiFi and facilities worthy of a good hotel, we quickly settled in and cooked some delicious local salmon and new potatoes.

At Vilhelmina, Vasterbotten (W Bothnia), Sweden     Kolgardens Camping     1,104 ft    

The weather turned showery, though calm and warm. If only we'd come in mid-February, we could have joined in the Vilhelmina Winter Weekend, whose cultural events include the (unofficial) world championships in icepole sitting. Yes - the winner is the one who can sit the longest on top of a 3-metre pole of ice. We do wonder where the official contest is held?

We cycled into the town (3 miles by road, or on the gravel Strandvagen path round the lake), with its busy modern centre (altitude 1,100 ft). The 18thC church village has a few well-preserved wooden buildings, some of the cabins now Sami handicraft shops. A larger one houses the Tourist Bureau, where we were welcomed with coffee and free maps, while the local heritage museum is in the old parish hall. Outside, logs were being shaped and wedged together to make a cabin, attracting a small crowd. At the railway station a 1913 steam engine (top speed 70 km/hr) was left to rust, however, next to the modern diesel 'Grand Nordic'.

Apparently the town was named in honour of a Swedish Queen, Fredrika Dorotea Wilhelmina (1781-1826), as were two smaller pioneer settlements in Southern Lapland (still called Fredrika and Dorotea), during her reign. Her life makes interesting reading in Wikipedia! (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederica_of_Baden )

It seems that all roads lead to Lapland! As well as being on the E45 Inlandsvagen and the Inlandsbanan railway, Vilhelmina lies on the 420 mile/670 km long Sagavagen (Saga Highway), which follows an old trading route across the country, from the Atlantic Coast of Norway to Ornskoldsvik on the High Coast of Sweden's Gulf of Bothnia. Vilhelmina is also the terminus of the 231 mile/370 km long Vildmarksvagen (Wilderness Highway), running from Stromsund to Gaddede, almost on the Norwegian border, then looping back across the tundra over the Stekenjokk plateau (at almost 3,000 ft/900 m high), through frontier wilderness and Sami lands, to join the Sagavagen into Vilhemina. Both roads were recently fully asphalted and are now promoted for tourism.

They can't compete with the length of E45 (old road 45, reclassified as a European highway in 2006), which stretches almost 3,125 miles/5000 km from Sicily in the south to Karesuando in the far north at the Swedish-Finnish border, passing through both Dorotea and Vilhelmina.

On a short cycle ride (26 miles) we followed a stretch of the Sagavagen/ Vildmarksvagen as far as Skansholm. The quiet road rolled gently through a forested delta landscape, with an occasional sign for a cabin selling smoked fish. The local waters are renowned for salmon – and beavers. The village of Malgovik along our route has a store and a school, with a sign claiming Sweden's lowest recorded temperature of minus 53ºC in December 1943!! Unimaginable while it's a pleasant 16 to 20 right now.

Vilhelmina to Sorsele, Vasterbotten (W Bothnia), Sweden     Sorsele Camping     185 SK     88 miles     1,137 ft

After a mile back to the E45, we were northbound once again. Poised above the Vojman River, 13 miles later, a giant fishing rod and salmon attracted our attention! The adjacent rest area has a 2-hour limit for caravans, being right next to Vojmans Camping: a small but well equipped site popular with anglers.

The Inlandsvagen climbed gradually through the lowering forest to 1,473 ft/450 m, criss-crossing the Inlandsbanan railway which it shadows. Our carriageway seemed to get narrower – at least when meeting a logging truck – and the verges are already marked with snow poles ready for October. We even overtook an athletic young man propelling himself up the road on roller blades, practising for cross-country ski-ing.

At 39 miles there is a good rest area, 2 miles before meeting highway E12 (from Umea on Sweden's east coast to Mo i Rana in Norway). You could turn right here for Stensele, the village with Sweden's largest wooden church, displaying the world's smallest bible. We kept left to Storuman and left again a mile later into the centre of this pleasant little settler-era town.

There is plenty of free parking space opposite the wooden railway buildings, where log-transporter trains stand in the sidings. The library (with internet and café) is also in a historic wooden house, the former station hotel, though the nearby Co-op and ICA supermarkets are modern. Storuman even has a lakeside campsite, a short walk from the centre, near the indoor rink where we once watched an exciting ice hockey match. We had lunch at the station's oddly named Restaurant 3:AN, next to a local crafts shop, then visited the ICA and talked to our genial neighbouring motorhomer, Norwegian musician Terje Olsen. Terje teaches music, plays at summer weddings and travels with wife and mother-in-law.

Our Inlandsvagen E45 (now dubbed 'Via Lappia') continued north-east from Storuman for 30 miles to Blattnicksele, a village with small campsite and shop. Driving on through a brief rain shower, keeping well above 1,000 ft, we reached the railway town of Sorsele at 87 miles. Its freight shed houses the Inlandsbanemuseum (the history of the 1,289 km long railway), while the tourist office is in the railway station.  

The campsite is signposted left, over a short bridge onto an island in the lake. It has the full range of facilities expected in Sweden, though the WiFi signal doesn't quite reach the motorhome - and the mosquitoes did, the first time we've noticed them this summer.

After some lap-topping with WiFi in the comfortable TV room at Sorsele Camping, we left at noon and drove a mile back to the Inlandsvagen (E45). There was a choice of two garages to top up our tank before settling on the car park opposite to eat lunch and photograph Sorsele's historic wooden station, recalling the era of daily rail services for passengers and luggage. Nowadays, one train per day runs each way, from June to August only, aimed at tourists making the 2-day journey – with prices to match. The line also carries freight, such as logs, but we have yet to see a train moving.

Continuing along E45, which turns east from Sorsele, the road was quiet – too quiet! After 10 miles we found out why: road works (or today lack of road works) had left the surface stripped bare and scattered with rough stones. We bumped slowly along for 1.5 miles, regained tarmac briefly, then crawled for another 7-miles of rough stuff, taking an hour! Local traffic avoided this stretch, though we met a few long-distance trucks and buses throwing up dust clouds, overtaking us in vehicles they didn't actually own!

At 20 miles we crossed the border from Vasterbotten to Norrbotten (W to N Bothnia), reaching Sweden's northernmost Province (aka North Lapland). Here we entered the village of Slagnas, with a sign for camping on the left – and an ostrich farm!

Beyond this, the Inlandsvagen road works were finished (though still narrow, with no shoulder) and we climbed smoothly eastwards, reaching a maximum height of 1,760 ft/530 m. At 47 miles our E45 met rd 95, another highway linking Sweden's east coast with Norway. Turning right we followed the joint road for 3 miles to a roundabout, then took rd 95 into Arvidsjaur.

The town (the largest since Ostersund) was congested and busy, with traffic lights and no space to park – very different from the small friendly settlements we'd become used to. We drove through the centre, past many shops and businesses, turning right at the sign for the Caravan-Club listed campsite by Tvattjarn, one of the town's many small lakes (and mosquito hatcheries).

The campsite is large, highly organised and popular with families. The facilities are good, including a free gymnasium and sports hall, and – of more interest to us – free WiFi and satellite TV at every pitch. You can buy a satellite lead at Reception if necessary (though they are MUCH cheaper from the Dollar Store, with a branch less than a mile away). We did appreciate the complimentary welcome drink and biscuits.

With check-out time at Arvidsjaur's campsite a generous 3 pm, we stayed for lunch (after filling/emptying fresh water/waste tanks and giving the motorhome a wash).

On our way through the town centre (3 miles) we paused at Lappstaden, the Sami Church Village, signed off the main street near the church. The region's Forest Sami, who traditionally gathered in this area for markets and festivals, were converted by Protestant missionaries, the first church here being established in 1606 (with another in Jokkmokk the following year). This was the result of Karl IX's wish to create a Swedish kingdom (and collect taxes) in the far north, securing the land by building churches.

The Sami built their own parish village of simple wooden pyramid-shaped cabins and store rooms at the end of the 18th C, about 80 of which survive at Lappstaden. We were free to wander among the locked cabins, only used during the great Sami festivals (the next being the last weekend in August, then in February), when you can apparently pay for a guided tour.

A mile later at the roundabout we regained E45 Inlandsvagen, which soon turned north to climb through the forest, reaching 1,755 ft. Dropping down to 999 ft at the tiny settlement of Moskosel (at 30 miles), we saw a small campsite and café a mile later, on the lakeside on the left. It was a simple place for anglers (cost just 130 SK with electricity, showers extra) but we didn't stay as the only space was very exposed to a cold wind gusting today, and the ground looked soft.

Continuing, we stopped 4 miles later in a large rest area (complete with water, toilets and latrine) just before the bridge over the broad Pitealven. This clear shallow river flows south-east to reach the Gulf of Bothnia at Pitea, a town we remember fondly from last summer's journey up Sweden's east coast, as it's where we found a fill of LPG - very rare in these parts!

Walking across the foot bridge on the old rd 45, to photograph the river, we noticed a couple of campers tucked away in the trees on the northern bank and went to investigate. Beyond a White Water Rafting place (closed), there are several individual clearings in the woods for camping and fishing, accessed by crossing the new bridge, then left down a short dirt road.

We soon settled in, our neighbours being a quiet Dutch campervan, a friendly couple in a Swedish caravan and a German motorhome. Guess who had 2 large fierce dogs? It was a lovely spot by the fast-flowing river, the only sound, lulling us to sleep under a clear sky. We keep looking for the Northern Lights, though the northern light is magic enough.

Forsranning, Nr Moskosel to Jokkmokk, Norrbotten (N Bothnia), Sweden     Jokkmokk Camping Center     230 SK     68 miles     719 ft

The cold clear night (the first time we've needed heating this summer) gave way to a bright blue sky as we headed north on E45, the Arctic Circle now in our sights. After 25 miles, in Kabdalis up at 1,250 ft, we met the Inlandsbanan railway again. This tiny village has a café (closed), a Netto store and some simple cabins for the ski-run cleared on the hillside. Three miles later we passed a Sami stall selling reindeer antlers and pelts (the softest of furs), shortly before a large café. The tiny settlements now have a pair of names on the signs: Swedish and Sami (the latter appearing more like Finnish).

The road climbed gradually, levelling out on a wooded plateau above 1,500 ft. An exciting moment at 39 miles when our first lone-ranging reindeer of the year crossed our path, paused, then bound into the forest. The first of many, we hope. There was a good rest area at 45 miles, 13 miles before the Polar Circle.

When we arrived at the Circle, the Café/Souvenirs and Camping (altitude 989 ft/300 m) were quite disappointing: the café only sold drinks and cold snacks; the souvenirs did not include any Polar Circle stickers or post cards; the camping was a small overnight parking area charging 100 SK (+ 40 SK for hook-up). At least there is a free car park with toilets, water and latrine for daytime use, where we stopped for lunch. On our last visit, 11 years ago, overnight parking was also free (no electricity then).

If you want to visit Lapland's most famous resident, he is not to be found here – try the wonderful Santa's Village on the Arctic Circle at Rovaniemi in Finland, the country which makes the most of Father Christmas. Here, though, the magic lies in the location: at approximately 66º 33' North, the Polar or Arctic Circle marks the southernmost latitude at which the midnight sun is visible at the summer solstice, and the limit of noon-darkness and northern light in the winter. Due to the fluctuating inclination of earth's axis, the line does move both north and south. It's currently creeping north, so that we crossed the actual (unmarked) point about 1 km later, but it will be back in the year 22,000!

At Jokkmokk, Sweden's Sami capital just 5 miles north of the Circle, we turned left at the junction of E45 and rd 97 in order to check the campsite at Skabram, a mile or so west. As it looked small and scruffy, guarded by a loose Alsatian, we promptly returned and drove through the town and on to the large commercial Camping Center (sic), a couple of miles east along rd 97. It's our most expensive Swedish site yet, the price including outdoor pools, sauna and the usual facilities – though not WiFi, which costs a one-off 100 SK for the password!    

At Jokkmokk, Norrbotten (N Bothnia), Sweden     Jokkmokk Camping Center