TRANS PENNINE TRAIL – CYCLING COAST TO COAST

Cynthia Webb
August 2010

Click: 15 Photographs of Martin and Cynthia on the Trail

The Trans Pennine Trail (TPT) runs from Liverpool-Hull (150 miles/240 km) and is part of Euroroute 8, which runs from Ireland to Northern Turkey.  It follows a variety of old railways, canals, riversides and cross-country tracks, most of which are flat or on easy gradients.  More than 60% is on traffic-free well-surfaced paths.

Funded from the Millennium Commission and officially opened in September 2001, the TPT was developed by a unique partnership of 26 local councils and other partners across the country.  We recommend their excellent website - www.transpenninetrail.org.uk – which has a plethora of information and relevant maps/booklets (which we found very detailed and sufficient for our purpose).

As leisure cyclists, who like the creature comforts of their campervan rather than hunting for lodgings and food at the end of a day's cycling, it seemed ideal for us – with our car as well we could “leapfrog” from campsite to campsite and complete the whole trail at our own leisurely pace.  Another way of “leapfrogging” is to use the excellent train service: certainly Selby-Hull and Warrington-Liverpool are accessible in this way. 

We set off from the Humber Bridge, just south of Hull, as the Humber flows into the North Sea, finishing on the banks of the River Mersey, as it flows into the Irish Sea, rather than cycling into Liverpool itself.  

We took various detours and days off to explore – Bempton Cliffs RSPB site where we saw nesting puffins; the National Coal Board museum where we were taken down the mines; walking part of the Pennine Way; a day in Liverpool - but set out below are the actual cycling days.

Day 1 – CLIFFE–HULL   60 km

Leaving the car at our first campsite nestling below the Humber Bridge, we drove the camper to the campsite at Cliffe where we met up with Sue, the owner, who was training to cycle from York to Amsterdam.  She decided to join us as part of her training programme – well, her ability far outpaced our slow meanderings and our first day was set at a blistering pace (for us anyway).  But we stuck with her and had a welcome break when she left us to return to Cliffe.

At last, the Humber Bridge came into sight and we completed the first leg, loaded the bikes on the car and drove back to a welcome stew in our little home on wheels.

Day 2 - BRAITHWAITE-CLIFFE   35 km

No campsite at Braithwaite, but the owner of the tents-only site showed us where we could park our van safely.  This was a lovely leg, starting alongside the New Junction Canal beside a lifting bridge, then quiet country roads. 

Only 2 power stations spoiled the gorgeous views of this section.  Of course, this was a strong coal-mining area although nowadays the coal is brought in by rail and road.  No more pits to send ponies and young children down to earn their daily crust. 

Having completed this very pleasant section, we collected the car and drove to Braithwaite.  As it was still only mid-afternoon we decided to leave the car overnight (true enough, it was quiet, safe and secluded, as described) and drive on to the next campsite at Warburton.

Day 3 - WORSBROUGH-BRAITHWAITE   45 km

This section has a choice of routes: south via a long tunnel (lit) or north following the Dove Valley Trail.  Unfortunately for Martin, we took the north route because that had a campsite – he yearned for the thrill of the tunnel, but thinking of bats etc I personally was glad the campsite was situated where it was!

Since there was a long steep hill between the campsite and the Trail, we took the van to a convenient Trail car park (these really are frequent, well signed and safe) to set off along the Dove Valley Trail (a disused railway line) back to Braithwaite. 

This section passes through Old Moor RSPB reserve and is mostly off-road trails. 

Day 4 - CROWDEN–WORSBROUGH   35 km

Woodhead Pass is the only incline of the trip, climbing to 435 m at the highest point, Windle Edge.  Starting at the beautiful Crowden Camping and Caravanning Club site, we followed the Longdendale Trail, yet another disused railway route put to good use, past the reservoirs, then a steep climb pushing the bikes.

We passed Salters Wood Bridge, dating back to 1695 and still carrying heavy goods traffic.  This route is one of the old saltways taking salt from Cheshire to Yorkshire.  When the new road from Manchester to Doncaster was built and then turnpiked, around 1740, this bridge was probably narrowed to prevent carts from avoiding the toll! 

Up and up, eventually reaching Pikenaze Moor where we lunched among friendly sheep at Windle Edge – we had made it!  Superb views and a fine resting place.  From here, it was a long, steady downward ride.  One point to remember if anyone is thinking of taking this trail and uses the northern option mentioned above … where the trail separates at Oxspring, do not take the marked route – once again it is too steep and narrow to ride.  Instead follow the roads B6462/B6449, clearly marked on the map - certainly much quicker and easier to navigate.

Collecting the car and returning to Crowden, we settled down for a few days to enjoy the scenery and walk part of the Pennine Way, which passes close by the campsite.

Day 5 – STOCKPORT-CROWDEN   37 km

With no campsite, we drove the car to Stockport, left it in what we hoped was a safe place and cycled back to Crowden.  Not an easy leg, quite a difficult surface and not well signed.  In fact at one point deviating benefited us because a kind passer-by, directing us back onto the route, pointed out a nest of kestrels with 2 young chicks perched under a railway viaduct.

Day 6 – RIXTON-STOCKPORT   36 km

Our first sight of the River Mersey.  It was a day of following or crossing motorways.  However, it was quite nice to be pedalling quietly alongside so many people rushing along in such a hurry.

Once again we got lost in Stockport – our advice to fellow “trailers” is to follow “Town Centre” signs.  Don't assume you are going to bypass it – you don't! 

Day 7 – RIXTON-WIDNES-RIXTON   27 km each way

This was our final leg, having decided to reach the last bridge over the River Mersey before it flowed into the Irish Sea rather than cycle through Liverpool (although it is possible to do this and return by train to the campsite). 

We had looked forward to following the Manchester Ship Canal but, disappointingly, it was quite overgrown and little could be seen (no ships passing either, unfortunately!)  There was a very exciting lock at Thelwall to explore though, worth a stop.

We witnessed an amusing, if dangerous, pastime of mud-sliding on Spike Island at Widnes.  In fact, the arrival of the local “bobby” stopped the lads in their tracks!

Then we had to turn round and cycle all the way back to the campsite!  Our first and only “round trip”.

CONCLUSION

7 days in the saddle, 20 hrs of actual pedalling over 11 days, including detours, deviations and finding campsites.  Some excellent excursions en route and thumbs-up for an extremely well signposted Trail following clear, informative maps.
A wonderful trip, well worth all the planning, and surprisingly simple to execute.  We met surprisingly few cyclists attempting the whole route, but many day-trippers and locals using this excellent facility.  Almost everyone was helpful, pleasant and full of the renowned northern hospitality.  Oh my, there were a lot of gates to negotiate – on one stretch alone we lost count at 25!

PHOTOGRAPHS

1.   The Trail
2.   Intrepid travellers setting off on the first leg
3.   Fishing on the New Junction Canal
4.   A welcome break
5.   Lifting Bridge at Braithwaite
6.   Pikenaze Moor
7.   Winding upwards to Windle Edge
8.   View along the Longdendale Trail
9.   Yet another gate!
10. Manchester Ship Canal
11. Mud-sliding
12. Liverpool Docks 2010-style
13. Birthplace of the Beatles
14. Start – Bridge over the River Humber (North Sea)
15. End – Bridge over the River Mersey (Irish Sea)