Barry and Margaret Williamson correspond with Liz and Brian Palfrey September 2010
Introduction
Liz and Brian Palfrey aim to visit northern Norway and Sweden, above the Arctic Circle, during October 2010. Liz had a number of concerns, which focussed on the likelihood and extent of snow at that time of year, the necessary precautions and the chances of seeing the Aurora Borealis or Northern Lights.
All of these are matters of probability, with varying degrees of uncertainty, and this was strongly reflected in the correspondence that followed, the highlights of which are copied below. Liz was in France, while we were on the ground in northern Finland at the time consulting local people, and websites were browsed in all directions.
Would roads be closed? Were winter tyres necessary? Snow chains? Legal requirements? Special equipment? Where best to see the Northern Lights. No-one knew for certain, although certain tourist interests promoted their interests with an undue confidence.
We have travelled in Scandinavia seven times since 1990, when we cycled from the UK to Tromso via the newly-opened Berlin Wall, Gdansk, St Petersburg, Helsinki and Kiruna. Three successive motorhomes have given us the opportunity to spend months north of the Arctic Circle, including three journeys to Norway's Nordkapp and two visits to the Russian border on the Barents Sea, east of Kirkenes.
Over the years, the dreaded spider of tourism has spread its web, trying to change the feel of the wilderness, replacing it with 'attractions' featured in brochures, websites, promotions and souvenirs. Even natural phenomena – the Northern Lights, waterfalls, the midnight sun – become commodities for sale. Old wooden buildings, burned to the ground along with everything flammable by Germans retreating from the Russians in 1944/5, are rebuilt for tourists to appreciate what is called 'folk culture'.
Fortunately, the summer tourist season is short: perhaps from early June to mid-August. By the end of August all is quiet again. Tourist attractions (and most campsites) close; hillsides sometimes scarred by the apparatus of downhill skiing await their winter use. In autumn the natural Nordic wilderness is at its best. The colours of the trees, the wealth of forest berries and fungi, the roaming reindeer: these delights are freely guaranteed, for those with the time, patience and courage to wander – preferably on foot or bicycle.
This is the background to the exchange of emails which took place, even as Liz and Brian prepared their French Pilote 690 Pacific motorhome for their estimated 3,000-mile journey.
ONE. Liz wrote:
We are planning our first trip to Scandinavia in a couple of weeks' time, driving from Brittany following most of your route through central Sweden, and wondered if you can give us any idea of road conditions and risk of snow in the Kiruna, Abisko, Narvik area around the first two weeks in October before heading south again. I have been trying to no avail to gain the info from the net but find that you are the only people who have the experience of travelling this area by motorhome at the time of year when we wish to go. We will be taking snow chains and all possible precautions for winter but would appreciate any tips you can give us please.
TWO. We wrote:
Kemijarvi, Lapland, Finland
Many thanks for your email and your kind words. You have caught us right on the Arctic Circle, heading south as the leaves begin to fall.
From what you write, you are probably familiar with our Travel Logs for September and October 2006 when we were in Kiruna:
It was just starting to snow a little as we left at the beginning of October and we would almost certainly say that you would be OK. Not least, the Scandinavians that far north are very good at keeping the roads clear, particularly the main roads such as the E10 through Kiruna, the E6 along the Norwegian coast and the E45 in Sweden - the Inlandsvagen.
The overall problem is that the onset of snow is quite variable. We were talking yesterday to a Finnish Woman who lives in Helsinki who, among others, was telling us that the winters have become less stable, less predictable. They like the snow to come because it brightens the gloom and recently it didn't arrive down in Helsinki until December. At the moment up here it's warm and sunny - daytime temperatures around 15 C, falling to 9 or 10 overnight. No sign of freezing yet.
So, go ahead and enjoy it. It's absolutely beautiful in this far north - the space, the lakes, the forest, the light, the fells, the reindeer and the people - calm, at peace and very helpful.
Many thanks for such a rapid reply and the links. Yes, I have seen your site for Oct 06 and many other pages which you have written. It has been very difficult to find the info we need for this trip, which for us is our first major trip through so many countries. Everywhere tends to advertise Midnight Sun in summertime and Northern Lights, husky trips etc in winter, but nowhere else (other than your travels) have I seen any info for travelling conditions that far north in the Autumn.
We are very excited at the prospect of this trip and are trying to make our final preparations before leaving home (here in the centre of Brittany), hopefully towards the end of next week. We intend travelling Belgium, Holland, Germany (and Denmark), then cross the Storebaelt and Oresund Bridges to Malmo and up through central Sweden.
I have been advised by a campsite in Sweden close to the Vildmarksvägen (Wilderness Road) at www.campingjarvsand.com (which is a place we would hope to stop over for a while) that we should purchase snow tyres if we wish to travel any further north as the snow can be so unpredictable, whereas Narvik tourist board say snow chains should be adequate as they don't often got snow before November.
So as you can see, with such conflicting reports and as such novices to anywhere so far north, we really do appreciate your help. Finland too looks fascinating, as do the Norwegian fjords, but is probably a little too far for us this time. The main purpose for our visit is, if possible, to see the Lights and the wildlife and to try and get as far as Narvik/Lofoten in the hope of seeing the Orcas (killer whales) and for Brian to return there after 40+ years, when he went in the merchant navy at the age of 17!
... a couple more questions?
Do you have snow tyres fitted or just carry chains/snow socks?
From your travels in Norway can you give us any indication as to the cost of road tolls? We understand Norway is very expensive, and the biggest problem is calculating our proposed costs.
Lastly, judging by the frequency you are able to update your website, I guess that finding campsites or libraries with WiFi is relatively easy, and campsites also make life much easier for water and waste etc.
FOUR. We wrote:
Vuostimo, Above the Arctic Circle, Finland
Thanks for your email, to which we will reply at greater length shortly. Briefly - we don't carry chains or have any desire to fit snow tyres! WiFi is what we mainly use and it is widely available in libraries and campsites, although sometimes the latter charge extra. Libraries and tourist information offices often let you use their computer free, but for a limited time.
Norway is the most expensive of the three northern Scandinavian countries - more on this later! Finland is the friendliest.
More on the email sent yesterday, which was in a hurry using an elderly computer in the campsite reception, whilst being watched!
Tolls in Norway: Attached is a page out of the Caravan Club's 'Caravan Europe' (absurd title for two reasons) campsite guide. It's dated 2007 and costs only go up. Note that the toll cost is at least double for a vehicle more than 3.5 tons or more than 6 metres long (Class 3 rather than Class 2). Copy the photo, if necessary, in order to enlarge it. Thankfully, you can divide by about 9.5 NOK to the UK pound, the rate we used recently in Norway.
Fuel: Petrol and diesel were about the same price between Finland and Norway in the far north, perhaps overall slightly cheaper in Sweden. Gas can be hard to refill. We have a fixed tank for LPG and there is none at all in Finland, only about 13 places in Sweden and around a 100 in Norway. Don't know about refilling bottles, if that is what you have, but be aware it may be a problem. Ask at campsites.
Northern Lights: We have been to Scandinavia 7 times in the last 20 years or so, 6 of them to the far north, including 3 visits to Nordkapp itself and twice to the Russian border beyond Kirkenes. But we have never seen the Northern Lights! Perhaps because we are good sleepers. Don't let this put you off, just be aware that you might be disappointed and you will have to find a good location - on a hill facing north - on a clear night with a minimum of light pollution. Alta in Norway is the place that has the world's first Northern Lights Observatory and it's still in use. Have a look at www.spaceweather.com
Motorhome Lights: From Denmark you have to keep your dipped headlights on, so carry spare bulbs!
Tyres: Studded tyres are only fitted when there is a deep and permanent depth of snow on the road - people keep two sets of tyres, one for summer and one for winter. Studded tyres are, of course, not a good idea unless there is deep snow.
Chains: Carrying chains is said to be a legal requirement for vehicles over 3.5 tons in what the Caravan Club guide calls the 'winter season', which isn't for some time yet.
So, overall, be prepared but don't be worried. If there is light snow, as there was in 2006, it will only be on higher ground such as Kiruna and the moderate pass over into Norway. The Norwegian coast, a spectacular drive in itself, will be warmer thanks to the Gulf Stream. Without that warm current, the whole of Northern Norway would be ice-bound for much of the year, like Russia, Canada, Alaska at similar latitudes.
If we weren't heading for Bulgaria and Greece beyond, we would be very happy to stay up here through October.
What you will see, rather than winter, are reindeer and the wonderful colours of Autumn (see pictures).
SIX. Liz wrote:
Many thanks for your time and all the useful information and links, which are exactly what I have been looking for. I realize that to see the Northern Lights we will have to be extremely lucky but in case you are still far enough North to be able to see them, here are some links which I have found interesting and may be also useful to you.
This trip is for us a real expedition. Hopefully our plan is to travel as far north as possible in the first two weeks of October, during the darkest moon phase, and stay as long as it takes until we are able to see the Lights. We intend to stay as long as possible before the weather gets too cold, hence the concern about snow chains/tyres. At the moment our departure from home has been delayed for a few days; however we will be leaving here asap so I am in the final stages of the preparation for our trip.
Our Pilote is just under the 3.5 tons but it is 7.20 mtrs long, which is one reason for travelling through Sweden to avoid the tolls. I also believe the roads will be better to travel than the more mountainous ones through the fjords of Norway at this time of year! Thanks for the toll costs info you sent me, it was very useful. We will probably save seeing the fjords until next year in the summertime.
We have 2 large propane gas bottles for cooking etc. I understand that it is only in Norway where they are difficult to obtain but it is possible to get the small Twiny bottles there like theones we know in France. Although I understand we can get propane in Sweden.
I don't know how far we will get this trip but at the very least we are heading to Stromsund and hopefully beyond to Jokkmokk and the Vildmarksvägen road or at least some of it. http://www.wildernessroad.eu/ The webmaster Erik told me that the road at the Stekkenjokk Plateau to Narvik is closed from 15 October but it would still be possible to travel to Norway via Gadedde, so who knows we might make it to Narvik and to Lofoten after all. We also found useful info about fuel, cash dispensers and drinking water from his website.
We can't wait to see the reindeer, the wildlife and maybe if we are lucky we will be able to stay and see the Orcas too if we reach the Norwegian coast but I'm sure whatever we do will be amazing and a real adventure. We are looking forward to cycling but are not in your league!! We will only be taking short rides in comparison.
We really appreciate your help it has been invaluable. It has been so kind of you to help me with my planning for our trip. I have gleaned some great tips from your emails and web pages, not least being to take a bread-maker!! We will take a small electric heater and I have managed to save your web pages to my laptop for referral even on occasions when I can't get to any WiFi!It certainly makes all the difference hearing from someone with such up to date info and who obviously has such experience as yourselves.
SEVEN. We wrote:
Kainuu, Finland
One small point. We can't understand the reference to the Wilderness Road, which we looked at as we passed through Stromsund to Vilhelmina on the E45. We saw this strictly as a tourist loop, open during the tourist season and deliberately going high into what they called the 'wilderness'. We thought this was quite amusing. Your route into Norway from the E45 could easily be the Storuman to Moi I Rana or the Gallivare - Kiruna - Narvik Road.
Margaret rang the Tourist Info Office in Kiruna (+46 980 188 80) today asking when the road to Narvik closed. The answer was that they keep it open all winter. It may close for a few hours after heavy snow and high winds cause drifting, to give the snow blowers time to clear it.
We are sure that this will be true of all main roads in northern Scandinavia - after all, the local people (who don't do tourist routes) don't want to spend the winter house-bound (well, not more than they have to).
A friend, Lis, who lives in Greece but spent the summer working on an organic farm in Iceland, sent us the following link to compensate us for not seeing the real thing, as yet:
Whilst trying to find out more about possible road conditions I came across this article which is very interesting, especially for anyone unused to driving a large vehicle on the mountainous Norwegian roads in winter conditions, as well as the following information over a period of time and perhaps you too will find it interesting.
One of the other things I found whilst researching for our journey was how difficult it was to find information regarding motorhome facilities in Scandinavia! We are used to the 'Aires de Service' here in France, (German) Stellplatz etc, and with the Allemansrätten in Scandinavia there seems little information available for the campingcarist, except this I have just found in French.
General information regarding actual road conditions in Autumn (other than that mostly from your site), or travelling North in Spring before the snows melt, is few and far between.
Here's just a selection of the information I've collected to date if you can use it:
The Best Places to See the Aurora Borealis
Northern Finland: Utsjoki, Ivalo
In the northern part of Finland the level of air pollution is low and in such places far away from the big world, like Utsjoki or Ivalo, the Northern Lights can be watched up to 200 times a year. And not far from Helsinki they appear much rarely.
Sweden: Kiruna
It is one of the places in the north of Sweden, where many tourists managed to watch the bright Northern Lights. Though the sky here is far from being the clearest in the world, it is sometimes said in the tourist prospects. Again, in order to watch and especially to take photos of the Northern Lights without any obstacles, it is better to go out of the city, where the street lights will not compete with the sky.
Abisko may be the best place on earth to see the Northern Lights, a good hundred miles inside the Arctic Circle; in fact you can't get much farther north and still be in Sweden.
The only thing you need is darkness, so any time from September through to April is a good time to see the Aurora from Abisko Station. “So popular has Abisko become as a vantage point for the Northern Lights, Eby kept the station opened during the midwinter solstice and holidays last yea, for the first time in a decade. The word is rapidly getting out, as visitors from as far away as Japan and North America now arrive here in autumn, winter and early spring to enjoy the polar light show, courtesy of the solar wind and Earth's atmosphere.”
One of the factors that makes Abisko a prime location for viewing the Aurora is the Tornetrask itself. The huge lake, which sprawls more than 70 km long just north of the station, creates an unusual weather phenomenon that keeps the skies above the station clear, even when fog or clouds blanket most of northern Sweden. This is the famed 'blue hole of Abisko', a perennial patch of sky kept mostly clear by the climatological effects of this inland sea and its valley.
Abisko Mountain Station is easily reached from the city of Kiruna, home to the original Ice Hotel, just an hour and a half away by road from the station.. For first time travellers to Sweden, the national tourist office at www.visitsweden.com can help in planning a visit.
Sweden can have more colours in the Northern lights.
The Northern Lights are at their most frequent in late autumn and winter/early spring. October, February and March are the best months for Auroral observations. The highest Northern Lights frequency is between 6 pm and 1am. In order to get full value from the show you should avoid the full moon and places with a lot of light, as they make the experience considerably paler.
Norway: Tromso
Tromso's location makes it one of the best places in the world to see the Northern Lights.
Though never guaranteed, people staying in the area for 4-5 days have good chances of seeing the Aurora Borealis. If you are lucky enough to experience the 'tricky lady', it is something which you will never forget. Most of the time the Northern Lights in Tromso are green.
Whale Watching in Norway
Orcas Tysfjord
The season starts on 29 October 2010 and trips run every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Season ends on 22 January 2011.
Many thanks for the time you have taken to make enquiries on our behalf.
I am curious to know why you think the name Wilderness Road is amusing? Does that mean that it is perhaps not as remote as it would appear to be?
There are various reasons but we hoped to drive via the E10 Vilhelmina to Kiruna/Abisko to Narvik. This is mainly because from all my searching online it would appear that this area (the Aurora Sky Station near the top of Mt Nuolja and the lake Tornetrask, the driest spot in Sweden) is one of the world's best places to see the Aurora Borealis. There's a good chance you'll have a 360 degree Northern Lights show right over your head. It's also a very beautiful drive from Kiruna to Narvik.
We then hoped to visit the Lofoten Islands and return at a leisurely pace via the Norwegian coast, at least for a time before deciding whether to return via a different route through Sweden. Anyway the plan then would be to spend as long as possible in the area near the coast Narvik/Lofoten, in order to try and be able to wait until the end of October to make the most of the opportunity to hopefully go whale watching for Orcas at Tysfjord.http://www.tysfjord-turistsenter.no/safari/english/ Or http://www.whalesafari.no/
Fortunately we are able, depending on weather/driving conditions, to stay as long as it takes to achieve these two amazing dreams. Originally we planned to have left home at the latest by 15 Sept, giving ourselves plenty of time to drive the 3600 km through Sweden to Narvik and to get as far as possible North before the 1st October. Unfortunately due to some teething problems with our camper we are unable to leave before this weekend hopefully! This is not only extremely frustrating, it considerably cuts down the time we have to drive so far to be within the best window of opportunity to see the Lights when the sky is at its darkest. Also we understood that the road at Stekkenjokk would close on the 15Oct!
As a novice to such an extraordinarily long journey, I just want to be as prepared as I possibly can - which is not easy when, as is usual in France (and often on-line), there are so many conflicting stories out there. I'm sure that, although there are many experienced long-term travellers like yourselves, there must also be many others like us. Although we have travelled quite extensively, it hasn't recently been by camping car over such a long distance and finding out everything one needs to be prepared is quite a challenge before we even start the journey!
For what its worth, some information you may find useful:
I have also learned that snow tyres for motorhomes do not actually exist according to three tyre centres (and www.Michelin.fr) in France and an email I received from the UK. However, I have just added two more new Michelin Agilis M+S camping tyres to my Pilote, which I understand are the best available, and as far as I'm aware Michelin are the only company who make tyres especially for camping cars in France. The information seems quite reliable although this may not be the case in other countries like the UK. Nokian, a Finnish company, do make snow tyres for vans but I was advised that if I fitted these in France it could invalidate my insurance because they are not designed specifically for camping cars - and at €600 for four they do not come cheap! http://www.nokiantyres.com/company
I had intended to purchase some chains to be on the safe side, although now having read your mail today I am even more convinced that they are necessary. Although my personal choice would be Michelin Easygrip for CC (for ease of fitting) http://www.accessoires-voiture.fr/chaine-neige-camping-car-c60u34p1.htm, the price ranges from €100 per pair upwards depending on the retailer. However I have been advised by my usual tyre dealer that we would need chains for all four tyres. Snow socks are also highly recommended but not for the distances we might need them on this trip.
The Narvik Tourist Board advised 'There is usually no snow in October, but I still recommend you to bring chains for your camping car, because the weather can change really fast'.
Erik from the http://www.wildernessroad.eu/EN_map.html replied 'The wilderness road is accessible all year round, except for the part over the plateau of Stekenjokk. This will be closed from the 15th of October. That means that from the 15th of October it is not possible to drive the round-trip. For the rest the road is kept snow-free. Snowfall starts mostly the end of September, but in general it is only from half October - half November that it stays. Snow tyres (winter tyres) or all-round tyres are recommended, but for the Swedish only obligatory from December on. In this area everybody takes care to have the tyres changed in October/November. Chains are not so common though, because the roads are kept snow-free (but in winter there is always a small layer of pressed snow on the road).
Also www.campingjarvsand.com near Stromsund said 'Snow chains or winter tyres: from October the Swedish people start to put their winter tyres on the cars. So it will depend on the total time you will travel. If you wish to go even higher up than our place, I should recommend to put the winter tyres on. Snow chains .... I don't think this is necessary.'
I do hope that this info can be useful for your website for any other novices to the Arctic Circle. One last question I meant to ask you was you mentioned on your website (I can't remember which page) that you went looking for a 500 kw heater. Is this the most powerful it is possible to use on campsites? I'm sure they must have an amps limit on most sites, like on sites I have stayed on in UK.
TEN. Liz copied an earlier email from Narvik Information Office:
Subject: Visiting Narvik in October From:
Hello!
We are glad that you liked our website.
There is usually no snow in October, but I still recommend you to bring you chains for your camping car, because the weather can change really fast.
The chances for spotting the Aurora is hard to predict, but you have a chance if the weather is clear.
For activities in Narvik during the autumn I recommend you to visit our website, the whale tours are not operating in October.
Med vennlig hilsen / Best regards
Malin Backlund
Destination Narvik Phone +47 76 96 56 00
ELEVEN. Liz copied an earlier email from Erik of the 'Wilderness Road' website:
Subject: Information please From:
The Wilderness Road is accessible all year round, except for the part over the Plateau of Stekenjokk. This will be closed from 15 October. That means that from 15 October it is not possible to drive the round-trip.
For the rest the road is kept snow-free. Snowfall starts mostly the end of September, but in general it is only from half October to half November that it stays. Snow tyres (winter tyres) or all-round tyres are recommended, but for the Swedish only obligatory from December on. In this area everybody takes care to have the tyres changed in October/November. Chains are not so common though, because the roads are kept snow-free (but in winter there is always a small layer of pressed snow on the road).
Norway you can reach via Gäddede, south-east part of wilderness road. Kiruna and Abisko you can also reach well during the winter, taking the E45. Autumn is very beautiful here, but short. The leaves are all colouring now and I expect them to be gone within two weeks. So October and November don't have summer green, autumn colours, or lots of snow to offer.
Erik van Elderen
TWELVE. We replied:
Nurmes Finland
Travel is fraught with uncertainty compared with most other ways of life, although I (Barry) did once get quite keen on rock climbing! I certainly didn't want to add to your uncertainty. The process of travel is one of making your way through, dealing with each issue (problem, opportunity) as it appears. Bit like rock climbing – know the route and its 'standard' but also be prepared for the unexpected, particularly the weather!
Travel is also full of ephemeral delights, but by definition they can't be guaranteed. It's like the Wilderness Road website mentioning bears - if they are there, great. But not very likely. Better to look forward to reindeer. Some hotels operate a Northern Lights alert, waking guests when the Lights are actually on view outside. Better than staying up all night just in case.
Our amusement at the idea of a Wilderness Road is that the whole area of Scandinavia once north of the top of the Gulf of Bothnia, once away from those coastal communities, is a wilderness. We equate it with the outback of Australia, the American West, the Great Karoo of South Africa, etc. True wilderness. So the idea that this road gave you access to the 'wilderness' was indeed quite amusing. A road with tourists queuing along it is no longer wilderness.
The background to this is that we like to see ourselves as travellers rather than tourists. So many wonderful places we knew years ago as travellers are now spoiled by the phenomenon of tourism and the often desperate attempts marketers make to sell their particular 'attraction'. This way, folks, come and see the wilderness!
It's not just a 'wilderness' road, it also has a waterfall (free of charge), no doubt some strangely shaped rocks, a cave, a hotel, Sami souvenirs, maybe a golf course one day!
The Aurora travel about the sky – you need a clear night, little light pollution, north facing, in the winter, as far north as possible, etc – and not forgetting some extra activity on the sun to generate the streams of charged particles entering our atmosphere. You don't need a wilderness road!
So the Aurora Borealis is also a tourist object and many locations are claiming to be just the place to see the display. We have seen this claim being made throughout the north of all three countries. The Wilderness Road website and the associated leaflets are typical of tourist hype we see too often. Our amusement covers a sadness that the true nature of a country and its people becomes masked behind this facade of nonsense.
For example, in Norway, Finland and the top of Sweden, the Germans burnt everything that was flammable as they were driven out by the Russians in 1944/5. Anything that was left, or has been rebuilt in its original form, is now a tourist object of the 'heritage' or 'folk culture' type. Each has a leaflet, a website, a car park, a cafe, a souvenir shop, etc – all open in the brief tourist summer (ends mid -ugust). Even archaeological sites and religious buildings have been incorporated into tourism.
The temperature here outside overnight is 12 Celsius and has been for some days. Everyone we have questioned shares the uncertainty you have experienced about when the snow will come, whether it will stay, etc. They don't anticipate deep snow on the roads; rather it will be a thin crust that heavier vehicles will grip. There are no serious gradients on the roads we have driven in Scandinavia over the years, except on parts of the E6 in Norway. People change their tyres only when the snow has arrived and settled.
Once you are on the road, fully briefed and equipped, some of this uncertainty will drop away and you will just enjoy the experience of travel – new roads, new people, new places, new experiences.
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