We left Monemvasia but didn't go too far, just 23 km up the coast to Limeni Gherakas. We parked on a car park by the 'sea loch' before the village with a beautiful view across 2 km of calm inlet (N36º47.280' E23º04.928'). Within half an hour of arriving, a friendly local told us that a better place was available round the headland and through the village. We had coffee and a sit in the sun and then walked into the village along the quay, an inch or so above the water, passing the odd seasonal taverna or two (closed) and ending up by the main harbour, where there were German, Danish and Greek motorhomes well ensconced on ramps with chocks, gennys etc. We asked if there was water available and they said no (but they clearly had some arrangement). There was room for us but we decided to stay where we were, because it was more sheltered from the gusty southerly winds. The whole inlet is very sheltered. We were forecast 30 knot southerlies although it was 25ºC and sunny for much of the day.

Many thanks from us to the MHF forum member who sent us details of this lovely location. We liked it so much we stayed the next day too (partly because for part of the day it was still very windy) and sat in awe of the scenery, challenging each other to think of a more perfect spot we had stayed - the Hebrides, the Rockies and Austria were compared but rejected. We don't have the quality of camera lenses or skill to record it but looking over this inlet towards isolated stands of cypress reflected in the water, with Heron standing motionless and Egrets swooping down, is something to behold.

However there aren't any facilities, nor shops so we went back to Monemvasia (yes – again!) for another night and to refill the water. The weather turned a bit cool (by Peloponnese standards) and we even had the gas heating on for a while. In the morning the auto changeover on the Gaslow had switched to the second cylinder (after almost a fortnight without mains power), so we did a bit of map study and decided to drive via Skala and Sparta to the Autogas outlet at Tripoli. We stopped at Lidl and Carrefour in Skala to stock up.

We then drove to and beyond Nafplio. Most of this road is very good and unusually wide but as you come down from the mountains towards the Argholikos Gulf the views were astounding - not that the driver had much time to look at them because there is a long series of hairpin bends.

We chose to stay at Iria Beach Camping beyond Nafplio (N37°49.717 E22°99.059) because the weather forecast was predicting more high winds followed by temperatures down to minus 4ºC over the next few days and we also needed to do some laundry and a bit of cleaning. The site has hot water, 16 amp hook-ups (and good Wifi for €17 a week). There are a handful of Northern Europeans staying here for the winter (most of whom have bizarrely stuck notices on individual doors in the toilets claiming ownership). We were quoted €15 a night including power which, whilst not cheap, seemed reasonable. There is also a book exchange in reception but, although there were many books in German and Dutch and some in French and Greek, we only found three in English which of course we had already read. We spent the afternoon sorting out the boot and making sure that gloves and hats were readily accessible in case they were soon needed.

17 December 2010

It didn't drop below freezing, staying at +2⁰ at the lowest, but with a brisk northerly wind blowing it certainly felt like it was below freezing and we did need the gloves and hats. We walked (rather briskly) in a southerly direction along the seashore for a mile or so and discovered a small minimarket, which surprisingly was open, although it looked well shut from outside. Whilst there wasn't much stock at this time of year there was fresh milk, yoghurt, cheese and some fruit and vegetables that were in a bit of a sorry state. The guy had to unlock the fridge outside for us to get some milk and in conversation informed us that the shop was open 12 hours daily, 7 days per week. He had his net book out and presumably a good connection to keep him from total boredom during these winter days. We felt we should return to shop, even if we didn't need much. In the fields along the road we greeted people harvesting broccoli and we identified other maritime crops like globe artichokes – the soil does look very rich.

After a week at Iria Beach we went back to Nafplio via the AB supermarket at Argos (on the Nafplio road) and stayed for a night on the harbour (N37.568007⁰  E22.800718⁰). A wander around the old town was extended into a leisurely lunch on Sintagma Square, where we also bought English papers, followed by Italian ice-cream round the corner at Antica Gelateria di Roma – an experience not to be missed. (We made our own ice-cream before we set off on our travels and, though no-one has yet matched that, this came pretty close).

On to Salandi beach (N37⁰26.989' E23⁰07.411). This was not without its twists, turns and road discrepancies. Between Nafplio and Lighourio there is a road on the map, and on our TomTom, which is not yet open and Dhidhima has now been bypassed – you need to look out for a right turn off the Spetses road to take you into the village and on to Salandi. What a curious place this is: there is a big 1960s hotel which looks like it has been derelict since the '70s, a 'holiday village' development which looks like it has never opened, a few scattered half-built villas and a big pebbly beach with a little chapel at each end of it. We parked right next to one of the chapels for the night, ten feet from an azure sea.

From Salandi we made our way south along the Argolid peninsula, intending to stop for a night at Portocheli, but there appeared to be a travelling fair set up on the parking area, so we set off again east past Ermioni (couldn't stay there – market day) and along the east coast road. This road is awful, badly maintained, twisting, narrow and badly signed. It does improve a bit north of Galatas though. After 120 difficult km we spent the night on the harbour at Archea Epidavros (N 37.63694 E 23.16188). Coming through the town we had a police car bipping his siren at us (not really at us, the narrow one way system was blocked by a delivery driver in a white van). Finally, to end off a less than perfect day, it rained heavily.

We carried on north-west to look at the Corinth Canal at Isthmia (which gave us the word Isthmus, apparently) and were lucky enough to see a huge ship entering the canal over the top of the road bridge, which they lowered into the canal. Inventive lot the Victorians, even if they were French. We spent the night at the new Camper Stop at Ancient Corinth and had a look at the ruins through the fence (well it is €6 each to get in). The Camper Stop (N37⁰54.696' E22⁰52.742') is seemingly converted from a farm yard but has everything you could need for €10 a night and is about 400 metres from the archaeological site.

5 January 2011 - This is the last instalment of our travels in Greece

From Corinth we drove rapidly down the motorway, via Tripoli for another gas top-up, to Kalamata for a LIDL fix and on to Finikounda for a while over Christmas, staying again at Camping Thines. We had a good lunch at the Taverna Elena on the Sunday before Christmas - Saganaki, Sardines and Souvlaki - but we were told that they were closed over both the Christmas and New Year weekends.

At Camping Thines, three ladies went for a swim on Christmas morning: an annual event we understand. One was the campsite owner, another one her daughter and the third a permanent (UK) resident (sorry, our memory for names is awful). Somebody's son joined them briefly but neither of us was tempted. There were three vans on site, apart from the English resident -an Austrian couple who were staying until April, a German couple who left on Boxing Day (we were pleased because they were noisy) and us. Apparently Camping Finikes, the other open campsite further out of town, was much busier. We lazed about for nearly a fortnight, spending quite a time sitting in the sun with highs of 20 degrees in the daytime.

We then drove to Katakolo on the way to Patras for a return visit and we were rather surprised at how quiet the place was on New Year's Eve, though the two ships in harbour sounded their whistles at midnight and there were a dozen desultory fireworks. On New Year's Day though, the place was heaving by lunchtime.

So on to Patras, which deserves a particular mention. The approach to the port was OK (Sunday morning after New Year). We arrived at the passenger terminal early (we always arrive early, anywhere) and eventually managed to park in a place that was not obstructing other traffic. Within two minutes we had someone lying down under the back of the van, looking to see if there was space for him to hide. As the co-pilot was attempting to check in for our ferry in the passenger terminal, the pilot was monitoring the back of the van on the rear view camera. During the time we were parked at Patras there must have been twenty attempts to find a space under the van but after a while (and we are a little ashamed by this) there seemed to be no alternative but to start the engine as the next one got head, shoulders and torso underneath. They all came out very quickly, smiling – they knew the game, but none seemed to realise that we could see them on camera. One young man in a Santa Claus hat climbed up the ladder on the back. We have to admit that we started the engine, reversed quickly and tested the brakes. He got off.

We were eventually told to drive a km south to gate one, enter the port and drive back to the passenger terminal inside the port security fence and “board the boat when it arrives”, the first bit of which we did, dutifully. We drove towards the passenger terminal, safely on the inside of the port security fence, only to find more groups of young men trying to find a space under our van. The problem then was that there were no further directions or signage as to where to go next. We later discovered the parking/waiting area by asking a coach driver (they really are very helpful people!) and there was a police presence in the waiting area – what a difference – though we still had the van searched inside, underneath (at some length) and outside.

We do feel sorry for these desperate young men, but not when they are trying to use us as a vehicle to prosperity, and their behaviour was quite intimidating.

Our advice to anyone joining a ferry at Patras is:

·         Before you go, make sure that every door is locked, including the lockers.

·         Don't arrive before the latest recommended time.

·         If you can, get into the port area before you check in.

·         Until you leave your van on the boat, don't leave it unattended.

This brings our Greek adventure to an end for this trip, although we already plan to return next year and also visit Turkey and Crete. For now we are off to Southern Italy, another first for us. Although TomTom don't claim 100% coverage of Greece, the coverage was excellent and we also relied a great deal on the excellent Peloponnese atlas which we obtained from Stanfords in London (Anavasi Digital) which was £30. This has 1:50,000 detail and is based on satellite imaging so it is very accurate and you can easily use it to work out GPS co-ordinates.

Peter and LInda Highe