An uneventful and easy 70 km drive from Conimbriga, although the intermittent showers detracted from the scenery. Still, it was a pleasant trip and we entered Tomar east of the Rio Nabao following the signs for the Convento de Cristo: the 12th 'Must See'. You are able to drive directly to the entrance to the Convent, where there is a largish car park although one feels it would be insufficient in better weather.

The Convento de Cristo at Tomar is an artistic 'tour de force', which entwines the most outstanding military, religious and imperial strands in the history of Portugal. The Order of the Knights Templar and their successors, the Order of Christ, established their headquarters here and successive Grand Masters employed experts in Romanesque, Manueline and Renaissance architecture to embellish and expand the Convent in a manner worthy of their power, prestige and wealth.

The Convent de Cristo is set among pleasant gardens (free) with splendid views. Founded in 1162 by Gualdin Pais, first and grandest Master of the Knights Templar, it was the HQ of the Order and, as such, both a religious and military centre.

One of the main objectives of the Knights Templar was to expel the Moors from Spain and Portugal, a reconquest seen always as a crusade - the defence of Christianity against the infidel. Spiritual strength was an integral part of the military effort and, despite magnificent additions, the sacred heart of the whole complex remains the Charola (also known as the Rotunda or Templars' Apse), the 12th century temple from which the knight's drew their moral conviction. It is a strange place, more suggestive of the occult than of Christianity. At the centre of the 16-sided, almost circular chapel stands the high altar, surrounded by a two-storey octagon. Deep alcoves decorated with 16th century paintings are cut into the outside walls. The Templars are said to have attended Mass on horseback. Like almost every circular church, it is ultimately based on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, for whose protection the Order of the Knights Templar was originally founded.

Prince Henry and Dom Manuel's Additions: By 1249 the reconquest in Portugal was completed and the Templars reaped enormous rewards for their service. Tracts of land were turned over to them and they controlled a network of castles throughout the Iberian peninsula. But as the Moorish threat receded the Knights became a powerful political challenge to the stability and authority of European monarchs.

Philippe-le-Bel, King of France, took the lead by confiscating all Templar property in his country and there followed a formal Papal suppression of the Order in 1314. In Spain this prompted a vicious witch-hunt and many of the Knights sought refuge in Portugal, where Dom Dinis coolly reconstituted them in 1320 under a different title: the Order of Christ. They inherited all the Portuguese property of the Templars, including the HQ at Tomar, but their power was now subject to that of the throne.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, the Order of Christ played a leading role in extending Portugal's overseas empire and was granted spiritual jurisdiction over all conquests. Prince Henry the Navigator was Grand Master from 1417-1460 and the remains of his palace in the Convento de Cristo can be seen immediately to the right upon entering the castle walls. Henry ordered two new azulejo-lined cloisters, the Claustro do Cemiterio and the Claustro da Lavagem, both reached via a short corridor from the Charola.

Dom Manuel succeeded to the Grand Mastership in 1492, three years before he became king (1495-1521). Flush with imperial wealth, he decided to expand the convent by adding a rectangular nave to the west side of the Charola. This new structure was divided into two storeys: the lower serving as a chapterhouse, the upper as a choir. The main doorway, which leads directly into the nave, was built by Joao de Castilho in 1515, two years before Dom Manuel appointed him Master of Works at Belem. Characteristically unconcerned with structural matters, the architect adorned the doorway with profuse appliqué decoration. There are strong similarities in this respect with contemporary Isabelline and Plateresque architecture in Spain.

The crowning highlight of Tomar, though, is the sculptural ornamentation of the windows on the main facade of the chapterhouse. The richness and self-confidence of Manueline art always suggests the Age of Discovery, but here the connection is crystal clear. A wide range of maritime motifs is jumbled up in two tumultuous window frames, as eternal memorials to the sailors who established the Portuguese Empire. Everything is here: anchors, buoys, sails, coral, sea weed and especially ropes, knotted over and over again into an escapologist's nightmare.

King John III (Joao III 1521-57) transformed the convent from the general political HQ of the Order into a monastic community and he endowed it with the necessary conventional buildings: dormitories, kitchens and no fewer than 4 new cloisters (making a grand total of 7). Yet another, much more classical style was introduced into the architectural melange of Tomar. So meteoric was the rise and fall of Manueline art within the reign of Dom Manuel that, to some extent, it must have reflected his personal tastes. Joao III on the other hand instigated the introduction of the Renaissance in Portugal.

The two-tiered Great Cloisters, abutting the chapterhouse, are one of the purest examples of the new style. Begun in 1557 they present a textbook illustration of the principles of Renaissance Neoclassicism. Greek columns, gentle arches and simple rectangular bays produce a wonderfully restrained rhythm. At the SW corner a balcony looks out on the skeletal remains of a second chapterhouse began by Joao III but never completed.

Areas visited within the Convento de Cristo were: South Portal, Former Chapel of St George, New Sacristy, Church, Cemetery Cloister, Restoration of the Rotunda (Charola), Main Cloister, Manueline window, Main Dormitory, Calefactory, Crossing and Crossing Chapel, Hostelry Cloister, Cloister of Santa Barbara, Cloister of Micha, Cloister of the Crows, Convent Aqueduct, Oil Storage Room, Lavatories, Kitchen, Refectory, Primitive Cloister Remains early Renaissance, Chapterhouse, House of the Procurator and, finall, the Skeleton of the Second Chapterhouse. The weather, grey skies and rain, together with the stained walls and the skeletal Second Chapterhouse which greets you as you enter via the gardens, depressed our spirits. The gloom continued unabated until the Cloister of the Crows, where one first saw the ongoing restoration, obviously suspended for the day. The Cloister glowed and one could, possibly for the first time since entering, appreciate the splendour that was apparent centuries before. One wondered why this Cloister and not more emblematic areas had been chosen for this work. The Church and Charola are beyond description and yet work does not seem to have been focussed on these areas, which were surely the architectural 'pieces-de-resistance' of the entire Convento.

The weather, time of visit and time of year conspired in our favour and there were few visitors other than ourselves. As we were leaving 2 hours later, however, 2 large coaches were disgorging a milling crowd. Also parked outside was a tourist road train, and there was a stall selling fruit and a small drinks-booth with confectionery and drinks. Entry to the convent was €6/pp, with an additional €1 for an information pamphlet. Unfortunately we had to purchase the one in Spanish as there were none in English. Having said that, the signage (Portuguese and English) was excellent and the pamphlet was more as a keepsake than as a practical guide. There appeared to be separate entry and exit portals, but you could re-enter using the same ticket.

Fatima (the next 'Must-See') 34 km from Tomar was an uneventful, if wet, drive. Fatima is the fountainhead of religious devotion in Portugal and one of the most important centres of pilgrimage in the Roman Catholic World. I don't intend to detail 'The Apparitions of The Virgin Mary' which occurred to 3 young children here on 13th May 1917; suggest you Google them.

At Costa Nova just outside Aveiro we had met a British motorhomer and his wife travelling south to meet friends at Malaga. Bill produced a Travellers' Guide showing 'free campsites' in Spain and Portugal, our destination being the one within 200 m of the Basilica itself. Entering Fatima you need to follow signs for 'Santuario Parques', which leads to a series of immense parking areas. Of these one, 200 m to the NE of the Santuario, is designated caravans (signs) but there were over 60 motorhomes and 2 caravans at the time of our visit. Given the somewhat sloping nature of the parking area itself (you really need chocks), more than a dozen motorhomes had decided to use some of the other parking areas and no-one seemed to care. At the designated site there was water (poor volume supply) and toilets which closed at 11 pm most nights (but midnight on the 12th and 13th, which of course are the nights of the Great Annual Pilgrimage).

Patently the holiness of the site doesn't extend to some of those that visit, as that night, at 1 am in the pouring rain, our cab door locks 'thunked' to the 'open' position and our alarm went off. We had been subject to an attempted theft, and we can only be grateful that the alarm dissuaded the thief who either earlier or later visited a number of our fellow travellers and their vehicles. We require to have a door lock replaced (obviously a screwdriver job), but at least no damage to the doors and nothing stolen. We have since re-instated use of the chain and padlock that run from door-pull to door-pull including the steering wheel. So, even if the lock is opened the door cannot be. So an eventful night as the rain thundered down.

ABFTP (A Blast from the Past) - In 2005 we were in Cartagena for the final grand fiesta of the Fiesta Season in Spain: Romans vs Carthaginians (Romans vs Hannibal). What a spectacle, only sullied by the despoliation of Mr C. On the afternoon of that fateful day our 2 mountain bikes were stolen from the rear carrier, and then later that same evening we had a quarter-light smashed, the radio-CD damaged and the interior left a mess when the thief was disturbed by neighbouring motorhomers and fled empty-handed. The lesson: thieves flock to spectacles and lightning does strike twice in the same place!

Next morning in Fatima began with glorious sunshine and we took the opportunity to visit the site itself. To commemorate the Apparitions and to accommodate the hordes of pilgrims who flock here, a shrine was built, which has little to recommend it but size. The vast white Basilica, completed in 1953, and its gigantic esplanade are capable of holding more than a million devotees. Long neo-classical colonnades flank the basilica and enclose part of the sloping esplanade in front. This huge area, reminiscent of an airport runway over which chants and services waft from flanking speakers, is twice the size of the piazza of St Peter's in Rome. On its left-hand side the original oak tree in which the Virgin appeared was long ago consumed by souvenir-hunting pilgrims; the small Chapel of the Apparitions now stands in its place with a new tree a few yards away. In the basilica the tombs of Jacinta and Francisco - Lucia's fellow witnesses, both of whom died in the European flu epidemic of 1919-20 - are the subject of constant attention. Boards detailing their life-histories are ranged around the square.

Whatever your feelings about the place, there is an undeniable atmosphere of mystery around it, perhaps created by nothing more than the obvious faith of the vast majority of its visitors. Given the time of year, just days from the 12th-13th Festivals, this awareness is heightened with serial Masses held in numerous languages from the Chapel of Apparitions and in the surrounding Churches. Details of all events are available from the excellent Tourismo in the square, although they are also posted throughout the area on notice-boards.

Things to see: Basilica itself, large replacement Oak Tree, Chapel of the Apparitions, the High Cross, Sacred Heart Monumental Fountain, the Adoration Chapel, the Rectory, Monuments to Popes Paul II and VI, Various Galleries, etc. We finished our tour of the Basilica and exited towards The Battle Abbey at Batalha.

Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitoria - better known as the Battle Abbey at Batalha: 14 km from the monotonous modernism of Fatima we find Batalha, the supreme achievement of Portuguese architecture, the dazzling richness and originality of its Manueline decoration rivalled only by the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos at Belem, with which it shares UNESCO World Heritage status. An exuberant symbol of national pride, it was built to commemorate the battle that sealed Portugal's independence after decades of Spanish intrigue.

With the death of Dom Fernando in 1383, the royal house of Burgundy died out and there followed a period of feverish factional plotting over the Portuguese throne. Fernando's widow, Leonor Teles, had a Spanish lover even during her husband's lifetime and, when Fernando died, she betrothed her daughter, Beatriz, to Juan I of Castile, encouraging his claim to the Portuguese throne. Joao, Mestre de Aviz, Fernando's illegitimate stepbrother, also claimed the throne. He assassinated Leonor's lover and braced himself for the inevitable invasion from Spain. All that follows is documented at the Interpretation Centre at the site of the Battle of Aljubarrota and we shall deal with this later. Suffice it to say that an army of 2000 Portuguese, aided by a complement of British longbow-men and some French, routed a Spanish army in excess of 20,000 men. In fact the Spanish vanguard was greater than the entire Portuguese force.

As it was a Saturday afternoon there was a fee of €6/pp, although the brochure was free from Tourismo right next door. Here we learned (too late as it transpired) that a ticket allowing admission to The Abbey, Tomar and Alcobaca was €15, an offer which wasn't publicised at Tomar.

The honey-coloured Abbey is sadly showing signs of damage from both acid rain and the vibrations from the nearby N1 highway from Lisbon to Coimbra. Transformed by the Manueline additions of the late 15th and 16th centuries, the bulk of the building was actually completed between 1388 and 1434 in a profusely ornate version of French Gothic. Pinnacles, parapets, windows and flying buttresses are all lavishly and intricately sculpted. Within this flamboyant framework there are also strong elements of the English Perpendicular style. Huge pilasters and prominent vertical decorations divide the main facade; the nave, with its narrow soaring dimensions, and the chapterhouse are reminiscent of church architecture in the English cathedral cities of Winchester and York.

Entering the Church and paying for tickets to the Cloisters, we turned right into Founder's Chapel. In sequence we then visited King Joao I Cloister, Chapterhouse, King Alfonso V Cloister, and finally the spectacular Unfinished Chapels.

Founder's Chapel (Capela do Fundador): beneath the octagonal lantern rests the joint tomb of Dom Joao I and Philippa of Lancaster, their hands clasped in the ultimate expression of harmonious relations between Portugal and England (see Treaty of Windsor 1386). Situated on the South wall of the Chapel are the tombs of the 4 younger sons of Joao and Philippa. On the Northern wall, also in recessed arches, lie the tombs of King Afonso V and his wife Queen Isobel, King Joao II and his son, and Prince Afonso.

Royal Cloister: stone grills of ineffable beauty and intricacy were added to the original Gothic windows by Diogo de Boitaca, architect of the Cloister at Belem and the prime genius of Manueline art. Crosses of the Order of Christ and Armillary spheres - symbols of overseas exploration - are entwined in a network of lotus blossom, briar branches and exotic vegetation.

On the east side of the Royal Cloister opens the early 15th century Chapterhouse, remarkable for the audacious unsupported span of its ceiling - so daring, in fact, that the Church authorities were convinced that the whole chamber would come crashing down and employed condemned criminals to build it! Soldiers stand guard here over Portugal's Tomb of the Unknown Warriors: one killed in France during WWI, the other in the country's colonial wars in Africa. The Refectory, on the opposite side of the Cloister, houses a Military Museum in their honour. From here a short passage leads to the Cloister of Dom Afonso V, built in a conventional Gothic style, which provides a yardstick against which to measure the Manueline flamboyance of the Royal Cloister.

Exiting from the rear of the Church we accessed the Unfinished Chapels, which form a separate structure tacked on to the east end of the church. Dom Duarte, eldest son of Joao and Philippa, commissioned them in1437 as a royal mausoleum but, as with the Cloister, the original design was transformed beyond all recognition by Dom Manuel's architects. The portal rises to a towering 15 m and every centimetre is carved with a honeycomb of mouldings: florid projections, clover-shaped arches, strange vegetables; there are even stone snails. The place is unique among Christian architecture and evocative of the great shrines of Islam and Hinduism. The architect of this masterpiece was Mateus Fernandez, whose tomb lies directly outside the entrance to the Founder's Chapel. Within the portal, a large octagonal space is surrounded by seven hexagonal chapels, two of which contain the sepulchres of Dom Duarte and his Queen Leonar of Aragon. An ambitious upper storey - equal in magnificence to the portal - was designed by Diogo de Boitace, but the huge buttresses were abandoned a few years later in 1533.

As the rain started again it was time to leave Batalha and one of the most amazing edifices we have seen to date. And now the mistake! We decided to strike out for the Caves at Mira de Aire some 13 km from Porto de Mos and, as it turned out, a wasted round trip of 50 km. We should have checked with Tourismo in Batalha as, having arrived at Mira de Aire, we found the access road to the caves had been washed out by the recent torrential rain. Shades of Morocco here! This was particularly disappointing as we just love caves, having visited same everywhere we have the opportunity. Known locally for decades, but only open to the public since 1974, the caves comprise a fantasy land of spaghetti-like stalactites and stalagmites and bizarre rock formation with name like “Hell's Door”, “Jelly Fish” and “Church Organ”. The tour culminates in an extravagant fountain display in a natural lake 110 m underground. We were so disappointed.

Back through Porto de Mos, taking photos of the Castle which was the overnight camp of the Portuguese army before the Battle of Aljubarrota. It was significantly damaged in the earthquake of 1755 and repaired piecemeal since. You can see the sun sparkling from the inappropriate modern green-tiled turrets from miles away.

Then finally the Interpretation Centre of the Battle of Aljubarrota, at Sao Jorge. Actually we had little knowledge of its existence and thought that we would be visiting the Chapel of Saint George, built by the commander of the victorious Portuguese forces, Nuno Alvares Pereira. On the day he allegedly complained loudly of thirst and to this day water in an earthenware jug is placed daily in the porch of the chapel in his memory. As the second-in-command of all Portuguese forces, after the King, it is interesting that this small chapel was his bequest, as opposed to the magnificence of the Battle Abbey which was donated by the King himself.

The Centre is only open from 10 am-5.30 pm every day and we arrived at 5 pm. In consequence staff allowed us to watch the 'Time-line' for this period in history, which runs on a 20 minute-loop on the wall of the Entrance Hall. We then familiarised ourselves with the battle-site and troop movements, both on the Entrance Hall monitors (touch sensitive, English-Portuguese), and walked the site of the battle outside in the grounds. There are a series of chronoscopes which give you an impression of the armies, using stills from the film of the battle we were to see the following day. Audio-aids are available in English at €5 (one monitor and 2 headsets) and these gave a commentary of exhibits inside the centre and also on the battlefield itself, as if you were standing at salient points. The Chapel actually marks where the king stood with the rear-guard on that day in 1385.

All the staff spoke English and couldn't have been friendlier. The honorary Centre dog (a bitch) was even more enchanting and appears to be some form of unofficial meeter/greeter and companion. We were allowed to stay in the ungated car park overnight and the night-watchman actually came out and suggested we position ourselves in a particular spot so we were better covered by the CCTV.

So the next morning we were there for the opening at 10 am. The continuing rain precluded headphones on the battlefield so we settled for the €7/pp tickets which allowed viewing of the historical film of the battle and a visit to the museum. In the half-hour until 10.30 and the first showing of the film, we reacquainted ourselves with the time-line. On the death of the last of the Burgundian kings, Fernando I, power passed to his widow Leonor who ruled as regent. Even prior to the death of her husband, Leonor, who didn't attend his funeral, was having an illicit affair with a minor noble allied to the Spanish throne. In addition, Leonor, whose only daughter had married Juan I of Castile, promised the throne to the children of that marriage. Whilst most of the nobility was in agreement with this decision, the merchant and peasant classes strongly opposed a Spanish ruler, preferring instead Joao, Grand Master of the House of Avis and a bastard heir of the Burgundian line. Joao and his followers killed Leonor's lover and Spain took this opportunity to invade. The Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385 led finally to independence from Spain and Joao being crowned as Joao I. He subsequently married Philippa of Lancaster in 1386 and the Treaty of Windsor resulted in closer ties between Portugal and England.

The historical film in Portuguese (headphones for English etc) is set in the Centre's theatre, which is modelled as a scene from the battlefield with dead combatants, dead horses and weaponry set amid a battle landscape of fortifications. The screen rises up from the floor as a book, which then opens to produce the screen. Extremely innovative - and the film most entertaining.

No photography is allowed anywhere inside the Centre.

Then it was the Museum, which proved highly informative, before our exit after 90 minutes to drive to Alcobaca and the Monastery (free admission on a Sunday morning).

We finished in the Interpretation Centre for 11.30 am and made the uneventful half-hour journey to Alcobaca. Being a Sunday, entry to the Monastery was free, although there was a service going on in the main church and we had to wait before accessing the tombs of Dom Pedro and Dona Ines de Castro.

The Cistercian Monastery at Alcobaca was founded in 1153 by Dom Henrique to celebrate his victory over the Moors at Santarem 6 years earlier. Building started soon after and by the end of the 13th century it was the most powerful monastery in the country. Owning vast tracts of farmland, orchards and vineyards, it was immensely rich and held jurisdiction over a dozen towns and 3 seaports. Its church and cloister are the purest and the most inspired creation of all Portuguese Gothic architecture and, alongside Belem and Batalha, are the most impressive monuments in the country for their carvings.

Entering through the main portal you turn left to enter the Kings' Hall, continuing on to the Cloister of King Dinis (Cloister of Silence) with the Lady of the Cloister, the Chapterhouse, Parlatory, Monks' Hall, Kitchen (more on this later) and Refectory. Upstairs to the Dormitory with the Novices, later Cardinal's, Cloister. Sited here to one side is a viewing window that allows sight of the two tombs, together with an information monitor with a touch screen (English and Portuguese), giving an excellent history of the tombs themselves and their intricate carvings. Retracing our steps, it was downstairs to the Church, Sacristy and the Royal Pantheon.

The Abbey Church, modelled on the original Cistercian abbey at Citeaux in France, is the largest in Portugal. External impressions are disappointing, as the Gothic facade has been superseded by unexceptional Baroque additions of the 17th and 18th centuries. Inside, however, all later adornments have been swept away, restoring the narrow soaring aisles to their original simplicity. The only exception to this Gothic purity is the frothy Manueline doorway to the Sacristy, hidden directly behind the high altar and encrusted with intricate, swirling motifs of coral and seaweed.

The church's most precious treasures are the 14th century tombs of Dom Pedro and Dona Ines de Castro, each occupying one of the transepts and sculpted with a phenomenal wealth of detail. Animals, heraldic emblems, musicians and biblical scenes are all portrayed in an architectural setting of miniature windows, canopies, domes and towers; most graphical of all is a dragon-shaped Hell's mouth at Ines' feet, consuming the damned. The tombs are inscribed with the motto “Ate ao sim do mundo” (until the end of the world) and in accordance with Dom Pedro's orders have been placed foot to foot, so that on the Day of Judgement the pair may rise and immediately see each other (the touch screen gives a different story).

Pedro's earthly love for Ines de Castro, the great theme of epic Portuguese poetry, was cruelly stifled by high politics. Ines, as the daughter of a Galician nobleman, was a potential source of Spanish influence over the Portuguese throne and Pedro's father, Afonso IV, forbade their marriage. The ceremony nevertheless took place secretly, at Braganca, in Tras-os-Montes, and eventually Afonso was persuaded to sanction his daughter-in-law's murder. When Pedro succeeded to the throne in 1357 he brought the murderers to justice, personally ripping out their hearts. Most poignantly, he also exhumed and crowned the corpse of his lover, forcing the entire royal circle to acknowledge her as Queen by kissing her decomposing hand.

From the sublime to the ridiculous - the Monastery kitchens, which just have to be seen to be believed. The kitchen with its cellars and gargantuan conical chimney, supported by 8 truck-like iron columns, sets it in perspective. A stream tapped from the River Alcoa still runs straight though the room: it was used not only for cooking and washing but also to provide a constant supply of fresh fish, which plopped out into a stone basin.

The Cloisters of Silence, notable for their traceried stone windows, were built in the reign of Dom Dinis, the 'poet-king' who established an enduring literary and artistic tradition at the Abbey. An upper storey of twisted columns and Manueline arches was added in the 16th century, along with - in its standard position opposite the refectory - a beautiful hexagonal lavatory.

The Kings' Room, off the Cloister, displays statues of virtually every king of Portugal up until Dom Jose, who died in 1777. Blue 18th century azulejos depict the siege of Santarem, Dom Afonso's vow and the founding of the monastery. Also on show here is a piece of war booty which must have warmed the souls of the brothers - the huge metal cauldron in which soup was heated up for the Spanish army before the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385. 

Leaving Alcobaca mid-afternoon, it was NW to Nazare and the start of the Pinhal de Leiria coastline and its beaches - and what a disappointment they were to turn out to be.

Nazare as a grubby little town set out to become the tourist haven of this part of the coast, and they succeeded superbly. All age-old customs have disappeared beneath a tide of frank commercialism, although just 50 m from the sea-front and set towards the edge of the town was a patch of scrub-land totally covered by wild-campers.

Exit to the north and the Pinhal de Leiria Coastline and its environs proper. This was a vast 700-year-old pine forest stretching from Sao Pedro de Moel in the south to Pedrogao in the north. Although there were always trees here, the 'Royal Pine Forest' was planned by Dom Dinas, a king renowned for his agrarian reforms, to protect fertile arable land from the march of sand dunes inland.

Wild-camping in the pines is no problem, taking care not to become bogged down. However the coast was a bitter disappointment, more so the stretch between Falca and Sao Pedro de Moel. We explored beach after beach to no avail. To the south the small villages gave access to vertiginous roads down to a minute parking area, that was hardly level. As one moved north, the size of the villages increased with increasing urbanisation, primarily resort/holiday home orientated, and the beaches were no better equipped to accept motorhomes. We passed only one, grotty site, although similar in lay-out to the one at Porto.

Just a footnote to the stretch between Nazare and Sao Pedro: yes, the beaches were expansive stretches of gleaming golden sands, liberally coated with the effluvium of western pollution by land, tourists, flotsam and jetsam.

We finally gave up at Sao Pedro de Moel, swinging inland to Leiria before regaining the coast at Praia da Vieira. The reason for this detour was to delay our arrival to see friends who live at Coimbrao, just inland from Pedrogao and a little north of Praia da Vieira. Access to Praia da Vieira was via Vieira de Leiria about 4 km inland. A well equipped little village, again with loads of parking possibilities. We purchased bread here and noted a fuel station selling diesel for €1.09/l. Not sure if it was tied to Ecomarche.

Arriving in Praia da Vieira at this time of year was like visiting a ghost-town. Parking abounded and we spent our days parked on the sea-front and our evenings and overnight on the estuary riverside of the River Liz. Just wish I had brought my fishing rods! There were toilets on the front, with barely working cold showers and water available from a tap. THE NATIVES WERE NOT FRIENDLY and Sandra was actually harassed on her exploratory walk and felt threatened enough to return to Mr C. The prices in the restaurants were ludicrously expensive for the fare offered, even supposing you could read the menus. Still, it was a pleasant enough spot and we bird-watched, and washed and polished Mr C after the torrential rain of Coimbra, Tomar and Fatima. Can't abide a dirty motorhome!

Then north to the final resort of Pedrogao 6 km along the coast, for what turned out to be the most pleasant of the villages visited. As one turns towards to sea-front there is a huge area set aside for caravans and motorhomes, even though there is a campsite almost opposite. The beach has been denuded of much of its sand but is still expansive and impressive, mile after golden mile. From the numbers fishing from the rocks just in front of the parking area there must be fish around, as was borne out the following day when local fishermen in their distinctive sharp-prowed boat laid its net from the beach in a wide circle, with the net then being winched in by 2 tractors. The net was bursting with a squirming silver mass, including sardines, bass, John Dory, mackerel etc, and a carrier bag of fish was on sale at €5. The same scenario was on view the following day on the beach at Praia de Vieira. We have been told that this form of inshore/beach fishing is actually illegal but that it is allowed as a) a tourist attraction, and b) in that it is generational. The fish caught at Vieira were not offered for sale but were bound for the local supermarkets.

Our advice: try Pedrogao before you settle on a specific beach. Having said that, the sea-food restaurants are allegedly cheaper at Praia de Vieira.

Having spent a few days with our friends from Coimbrao, it was time to drop back on the Toll motorway and make our way to Obidos (the next 'Must-See') 75 km further south.

Obidos is known as the 'Wedding City' and the traditional bridal gift of the kings of Portugal to their queens. The custom was started in 1282 by Dom Dinas and Dona Isabel and the town seems hardly to have changed much in appearance since then. It is very small and completely enclosed by lofty medieval walls. Streets are cobbled, whitewashed houses are framed with bright blue and yellow borders, and at all points steep staircases wind up to the ramparts, where you can gaze across a lovely rural landscape. It wasn't always like this. 500 years ago, when Peniche was an island, the sea also reached the foot of the ridge on which Obidos stands and boats were moored below its walls. However, by the 15th century the sea had retreated, leaving a fertile green plain and the distant Lagoa de Obidos with its narrow, shallow entrance to the sea.

An unexceptional, if pretty touristy, town. We visited at 11.30 on a Sunday morning as bus-loads of tourists were being carted away for lunch elsewhere. Tourismo is just before the main Town Gate and we obtained a town schematic in English from them. Just before the Gate you have the Memorial Cross and the Church of St John the Baptist. Then we have the Town Gate and following this the Camoes Monument (paying tribute to the poet Camoes). Then, in order: Municipal Auditorium, Town Hall, St Peter's Church, St Martin's Chapel, Alms House Church, Museum, St Mary's Church, 18th century Manor House now a Museum, Pillory, Town's Old Market Place (Portico), St James' Church, the Castle (now a Pousada hotel), and the Old Arms Square, which has now been divided into Municipal Amphitheatres. The Aqueduct (3 km long and ordered by Queen Catherine of Austria in the 16th century) runs to the side of the town and is most visible to the side of Tourismo and from the car parks, which are extensive.

We found the cobbled streets extremely slippery on the downgrades and it paid to hog the single slabbed area running down the centre of the main street. Restaurant menus were expensive and unexceptional and, yet again, we had to ask ourselves “Why is this Tourist Trap a MUST-SEE?”

With Obidos merely a 2-hour stopover, including the excellent and free Municipal Internet at EspacaoInternet half way up the main street by the Central Square, it was then on to Peniche, on the coast. With only Ericeira remaining as a 'Must-See' in this Province, we have time to kill.

Peniche, a town largely enclosed by ramparts, 23 km from Obidos, is one of Portugal's most active fishing ports. As late as the 15th century the town was an island but the area has silted up and is now joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, with gently sloping beaches on either side.

Motorhome parking is everywhere, in spite of there being two campsites where, we were assured by Tourismo, we could fill up with water etc. Actually that wasn't necessary, as on the road out to the lighthouse there is a 'fuente', and at the lighthouse itself there are toilets with water available. Sadly we were kept waiting at Tourismo by two Israeli surfers who were reporting their surfing equipment stolen. As it was a Sunday, only one female member of staff (English-speaking, as were they) was on duty but she completed all the necessary documentation and then directed them to the local Police for the remainder of same. She even let one of them phone back to Israel on the Tourismo's phone, as this is part of their protocol.

The greatest disappointment here was the seasonal cessation of boat trips around the coast and to the offshore island of Berlenga. This is now a bird sanctuary but one can visit and explore so long as paths are adhered to. Our guide book had indicated that boat trips were available throughout the year apart from December and January but that has obviously changed. Anyway 'birding season' is apparently over! The trips usually leave from the Marina below the Fortress.

Being a Sunday afternoon, all we could visit was the Town/Municipal Museum which occupies part of the old Fortress. Built in the 16th century, this became one of Salazar's most notorious prisons, to the extent that it underwent expansion in the 1950's and 60's as he locked more and more people away. Part of the prison has been retained as a memorial with the cells, refectory etc on display, as well as articles, letters etc - unfortunately all in Portuguese. The Museum, otherwise, is the usual mix of local archaeology, natural history and craft displays, with no individual English signage. Entry fee was €1.5/pp, closing at 17.30 hrs.

The only other point of interest for us was the Lighthouse at Cabo Carvoeiro about 4 km to the west of the town. You cannot visit the lighthouse as it stands within a Military Area but the views are excellent and one can actually see Berlenga island - the nearest we got. There is a restaurant here below the observation deck.

Ericeira - and so to the last of the 'MUST-SEES' in this Province ,although in our opinion, and as with the Pinhal Coastline, it was hard to see how this made the list. 58 km down the coast road from Peniche, Ericeira is the centre for surfing in Portugal and indeed the World Championships have been held at Praia da Ribeira d'Ilhas, 3 km north. Having said that, the entire coastline from Peniche down was just labelled as a series of surf beaches: Consolacao, Areia Branca, Lourinha, Porto Novo, Santa Cruz and finally Sao Lourenco. To us Ericeira was nothing more than a smaller, cleaner and flatter Malaga. The main parking area in town has the familiar 2.2 m height barriers and signs denying access to motorhomes.

The town's main claim to fame, though, is as the final refuge of Portugal's last monarch, Dom Manuel II - “The Unfortunate” - who, on 5th October 1910, was woken in his palace at nearby Mafra to be told that an angry Republican mob was advancing from Lisbon. Aware of the fate of his father and elder brother, he fled to the small harbour at Ericeira and sailed into the welcoming arms of the British at Gibraltar, to live out the rest of his days in a villa at Twickenham.

Ericeira is fine if you want beautiful beaches and surfing, but of no interest to us, although a rather disappointing note to finish such an interesting Province. Still, on to the beauties of Mafra with the village of Sobreiro on the way.

Around Lisbon

Mafra: We reached Mafra, the first of the 'must-sees, just after  lunchtime on a Tuesday and were appalled at the parking chaos in front and to the right side of the building. Similar lack of parking had been noted as we approached the Monastery/Palace but we totally missed the huge 'pay-parking' area to the left side of the building, which was only lightly dusted with vehicles. As it was a Tuesday the Monastery/Palace was closed to the public (open Mondays and Wed-Sunday for €6/pp and €1 for the brochure, although there is signage in English).

Sandra did a quick recce before we headed out of town for possible overnight parking near the Tapada de Mafra, once the Palace's extensive hunting grounds but now a tourist area with walking trails, picnic areas, cycle paths and organised activities. Such was not to be, as the entry charges were prohibitive and there is an extensive wall of 40+ kilometres around the entire area (www.tapadademafra.pt for information). We found parking on the hill back towards town, not realising that there was a perfectly good Mirador just 2 km from the Palace as you leave town towards Sintra on the EN9. The town map, obtainable free from the Tourismo situated in the same Monastery/Palace complex, gives the position and also that of the Municipal Library where there is free Internet available.

An excellent overnight and a 15 minute drive in at 6 am to ensure that we had parking in front of the Monastery/Palace. We just didn't spot the 'pay-parking' and this meant that we were literally trapped in the free public car park until 6 pm. We have mentioned before the atrocious driving and, although we weren't damaged, we saw many a vehicle subjected to minor trauma from fellow users.

A single immense and impressive building complex covering 37,790 sq m, the Mosteiro Palacio National de Mafra was begun in 1717 to honour a vow made on the birth of a royal heir; although other sources give that it was as thanks for cure from Joao V's chronic infirmity. Although initially intended for just 13 Franciscan friars, as the wealth poured in from the overseas colonies Joao V amplified his plans to include a massive Basilica, two royal wings and monastic quarters for 300 monks and 150 novices. The result, completed in 13 years, is quite extraordinary and, on its own terms, extremely impressive.

The style of the building is a fusion of Baroque and Italianate Neoclassicism but it is the sheer magnitude and logistics that stand out. In the latter stages of construction more than 45,000 labourers were employed, whilst throughout the years of building there was a daily average of nearly 15,000; so, shades of the Grand Mosque at Casablanca here. There are 5,200 doorways, 2,500 windows, 1,200 rooms, 156 stairways and 29 courtyards and inner yards. There are 2 immense bell towers each containing over 50 bells. A story relates how the Flemish bellmakers, amazed at the size and cost of the order, asked for payment in advance. Dom Joao replied by doubling their quote and his original order.

Parts of the complex are still used by the Military as a training school for Infantry; hence the uniforms around town and the constant glut of vehicles to the right hand side of the building. Entering the immense vaulted foyer, you have carriages displayed to both sides with, immediately in front of you, glassed doors to the gardens. The ticket desk is to the left, with the staircase ascending to the first floor and the Monastery from the right side of the main foyer. The Palace quarters are one floor further up. There were no guides and no language aides, but the pamphlet (€1) is excellent and the signage we found more than adequate. Non-flash photography is permitted everywhere, apart from the Royal section/Palace part and that unfortunately includes the magnificent Library.

Being as we were virtually the first in at 10 am, the cleaning staff were very much in attendance and although slightly musty the overwhelming smell was of furniture and floor polish. The staff we met were invariably polite and many expressed a wish that we enjoy our visit. Never seen so many long-handled feather dusters!

The stone and marble stairs to the first floor lead you to that part of the Monastery on display to the public, with the first rooms dealing with Religious Art. Far more interesting are the following rooms: Cemetery Chapel with locked doors leading down to the Cemetery, Dispensary, Friars' Infirmary, and Infirmary Kitchen. We were impressed with the Infirmary, the ward of which consisted of single cubicles arranged around a large room. At the end of the room is the obligatory chapel so the sick could see and take part in Mass. In each cubicle at the bed head was a tiled representation of Christ and at the foot one of Mary, the Mother of Christ. Each cubicle had curtains to the front for privacy. On the access corridor to the ward were single rooms, with one specifically for demented patients - a bed with cot-sides almost like a sea-bed.

One floor up and it was the Palace and Royal Apartments: Diana the Huntress Salon, Throne Room, Royal Oratory North, Oratory Corridor, Royal Appointments (North Wing), Discoveries Room, Destiny Room, Guard Room, Kings' Gallery, Benediction Gallery, Joao V Room, French Invasion's Room, Baptism of Christ Room, Grooms of the Chamber Room, Royal Apartments (South Wing), Bedchamber of Manuel II, Royal Oratory South, Naples Room, Pedro V Room, Music Room, Games Room, Small Reading Room, Hunting Trophy Room, Small Music Room, Dining Room, Friars' Main Hall, Friars' Portrait Room, Map Room, Library Corridor, Library Antechamber and finally the 'piece de resistance', The Library.

The whole place was absolutely fascinating, although for us the magnificent Rococo Library had to be the star. Brilliantly lit and rivalling Coimbra's in grandeur, to us it was far superior. Composed of lighter wood and being infinitely larger it seemed more an actual library and not an OTT assemblage of works destined merely to shock or impress. There wasn't the glaring 'in-your-face' attention-seeking that we had felt in the Joannina Library at Coimbra. Here again they have bats and the librarian produced dried specimens for our perusal. Two varieties were present, pipistrels and micro-bats, and they fulfil the same function as at Coimbra. Lord Byron, shown the 35,000 volumes by one of the monks, was asked “Do the English have any books in their country?”

Although all the other rooms were grandiose in their own right, the Hunting Room, with its furniture (even chandeliers) constructed of antlers and upholstered in deerskin, was really unusual, even if the chairs with their antler backs appeared less than comfortable.

Leaving the Palace/Monastery one walks to the left along the building to the Basilica itself (no entry fee) with its multicoloured tiled floors and ornate ceiling decoration mirroring the floors below. Be aware of the number of student groups that visit, however. There appears to be no less than a dozen x 20 throughout the day. So it's hardly a place for contemplation.

Given that we were trapped in the public car park we decided to visit the Cerco Gardens (free) to the right of the Palace/Monastery. Again Baroque, with pools, fountain and extensive walkway, we found them alive with dancing waters and flashing bird-life. Then it was the free Library Internet (half an hour) and a lengthy afternoon until set free by motorists exiting the car park at the end of their workday. It was only as we left Mafra at about 6.30 pm that we stumbled on the Mirador marked on the town map, which, although close to the road, provided an excellent overnight stop.

The next morning, after an excellent night's sleep, it was just 25 km to Sintra and a whole galaxy of delights awaiting exploration. We had already decided to visit 3: The Palacio National of Sintra, the Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle), and finally the Palacio da Pena. Sintra can appear quite intimidating and certainly the crowds, narrow streets, parking restrictions, etc, do not make it terribly motorhome-friendly. The allotted 'Parking for Large Vehicles' was a joke and we ended up taking most of an entire ticketed bay on the main road for the best part of 2 days (more on that later).

Approaching Sintra on its access roads, follow the brown signs for Historic Sites and that drops you into Sintra-Vila near Tourismo. Sintra loops around a series of green and wooded ravines, making a confusing place in which to get your bearings. Basically, though, it consists of 3 distinct and separate settlements: Estefania, around the train station; the attractive main town of Sintra-Vila; and 2 km to the east, the separate village of Sao Pedo de Sintra. It's Sintra-Vila and its environs that have most of the hotels and restaurants, as well as the main sites, including the extraordinary landmark of the Palacio National.

The Tourist Information proved useful and friendly with English-speaking staff. Just outside and to the right (if facing) is the bus stop for the Pena Sightseeing Bus 434, which runs in a loop to the Moorish Castle and Palacio de Pena (€4.6/pp). You are allowed to get off at the 2 stops going up, but when you board at Palacio de Pena it's straight back to the station terminus.

The National Palace of Sintra (9.30-5.30, closed Wednesdays and Public Holidays, €7/pp and €1 for a brochure, photography allowed): The only surviving Royal Palace from the Middle Ages, this building would gradually expand from north to south. Its current form is the result of successive building programmes carried out by several monarchs. The first was King Dinis (1261-1325), whose chambers were located at the highest and most northerly point and who had the Palace Chapel built. The second was King Joao I (1357-1433), who had the kitchens built and added a series of rooms around the central patio of his new Palace. Later, King Manuel I (1469-1521) would add the tower to the Arms Room on the west side of the building, as well as the east wing with the distinctive window decoration on its facade, now called the Manueline Wing.

Visits start in the Gothic arcade overlooking the Square, once a closed space that was used for jousts, before going on to the Swans' Room, the Palace's Main Hall in the time of Joao I. This is the largest room in the building and was called The Princes' Room during the reign of Manuel I, who introduced the chequered tiles. All the private chambers from the old Joanine residence are set around the adjoining Central Patio, which includes the Bath Grotto, a sort of cold room that was later decorated with tile panels and rocaille stucco that hides an ingenious system of water spouts.

One of the surrounding rooms is the Magpies' Room, which was the first private ante-chamber. The story to this magnificent ceiling is that it was painted under Joao I, who was caught kissing a lady-in-waiting to his Queen, Philippa of Lancaster. He had the room decorated with as many magpies as there were women at court, in order to satirize and put a stop to their gossiping. The birds hold ribbons in their beaks. Another room is that of King Sebastiao's Room, so named because this late 16th century king used it as his bedroom. It features a unique pattern of relief tiles depicting vines. There is also the Mermaid's Room, formally the royal wardrobe, and the Arab Room, which was Joao I's bedroom.

In the upper part of the Palace the Arms Room, whose Manueline entrance still bears the marks of the master masons that carried out the work at the start of the 16th century, is apparently the most important heraldic room in Europe. It is a clear allegory of Manuel I's centralised power, showing the Portuguese Coat-of-Arms surmounted by a winged dragon at the peak of the 8-sided vault, flanked in each segment by his children and, at the lower level, by the arms of 72 families from the Portuguese nobility. Truly an awesome room.

Through an impressive series of rooms, halls and courtyards we reach the room of King Afonso VI. This is where the monarch lived for 9 years as the prisoner of his brother, King Pedro II, until Afonso died in 1683.

The kitchen is still today used for official banquets held at the Palace. Still drawing its water from springs in the hills, the kitchen is mainly known for its two monumental conical chimneys, whose form has long been a landmark of Sintra and the outstanding feature of the town's landscape.

The tour ends with a viewing (only from the doorway) of the truly magnificent Manueline Room with its immense central chandelier and profuse decorations.

And then it was time for the other minor attractions in Sintra, which included 3 fountains and a Church, now a gallery of Religious Art. We thought the fountains more Fuentes than anything else, and the prettiest, the Moorish Fountain, was just 10 m from where we had parked (and whence we filled up with water). Not the only thing we collected, as we had attracted a Parking Ticket for our use or abuse of the Parking Bay, even though we had paid the €0.50/hr charge. So a trip to the Police Station (GNR) next to the Railway Station, where instead of handing over a €2 fine as anticipated, we were advised to wait until we left town, or better the country, and then deposit the slip in a rubbish bin; and they were serious. (The following day, as we were waiting for the Bus next to Tourismo, one of the road-sweepers regaled us with an account of the littering nature of the Portuguese and the number of parking tickets he finds strewn around. So there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! )

A quiet overnight in the same Parking Bay and then the next morning we caught the 434, which took us first to the Moorish Castle and then on to the Palacio da Pena.

Moorish Castle (5€/pp entry payable at either kiosk. Different opening times as per time of year): This has quite a history and archaeological digs still continuing on site have shown evidence of habitation here between the 10th century BC and the 7th century AD. The Moorish conquest occurred in the 8th century, with construction of the Castle between the 9th and 10th centuries. In 1093 Afonso VI conquered the Moors and seized the Castle, only retaining it for a short time. Then in 1147 the Castle surrendered finally to Afonso Henriques, the First King of Portugal, assisted as he was by Scandinavian Crusaders. In the 15th century the Castle was inhabited by Jews, as a form of ghetto on the instructions of the king, and in 1839 Fernando II leased the Moorish Castle and undertook its complete restoration.

Walking from the road along the access walkway to the Castle proper, one walks through a short tunnel to transit the second Circle of Walls. Just after this a series of large holes turn out to be granary stores. Before the Castle itself is the Church of Sao Pedro de Canaferrin, First Parish Church of Sintra built in the 12th century after the reconquest. Then into the Castle proper, where you can view the reconstructed Cistern and climb the Battlements. What views - South beyond Lisbon's Ponte 25 de Abril to the Serra de Arrabida, west to Cascais and Cabo da Roca, and North to Peniche and the Berlenga Islands. Immediately below the walls you have Sintra laid out at your feet, with the Royal Palace a wonderful photograph.

Then, scattered through the woods, the various minor palaces and quintas. At one end of the battlements is the Castle Keep, while at the other the Royal Tower where King Fernando liked to paint. Within the walls other, although few, rooms and remains have been identified. There is an explanatory pamphlet in English with your ticket.

Back to the road and the bus stop for the 434 to the Palace of Pena, another 5 minutes upslope.

Time-line: Originated in the 12th century as a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Pena. 1503 Convent of Our Lady of Pena. 1755 suffered serious damage in the Lisbon earthquake and fell into decline. 1838 the Monastery was purchased by Dom Fernando II following the extinction of the religious orders in 1834. 1842-54 rebuilding of the Monastery and construction of the 'New Palace' conducted by the King, Dona Maria II, and the Baron Von Eschwege. 1889 acquisition of buildings and Park by the State. 1910 onwards, converted into a State Museum.

Though outwardly amazing, this was our least favourite site. You arrive to find an entrance fee of €9/pp (and this is the low season rate - it can go up to €15/pp in summer). Audio-aids are €3 each. Then, if you don't want to face the 10 minute rather steep climb up through the Park to the Palace, it's another €2/pp for the bus fare to get you there. As you enter the Palace portals there is an Official Photographer attempting to flog you your photograph to commemorate your visit, although we didn't see any takers. NO PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE INTERIOR ARE ALLOWED and there are sufficient staff everywhere to enforce this. Backpacks have to be handheld or fastened to your front. The interior of the Palace/Museum is allegedly exactly as it was when the Royal family fled the country in 1910 - something we found hard to believe.

As mentioned the exterior, although due for a repaint (in pastels), is truly magnificent and you will take dozens of photos of the various external features: Triton, Turret-Minaret with Moorish dome, various intricate gates, Azulejos, watchtowers of various shapes and designs, the Queen's Terrace, etc. Coming out from the trees it really does appear as a wild fantasy of domes, towers, ramparts and walkways, approached through mock-Manueline gateways and a drawbridge that doesn't draw.

The interiors however we found much less impressive, the more so as the overall impression is claustrophobic. You traverse the centre of each (generally small) room on a red carpet with ropes or Perspex screens to your sides. There is signage in English but if you stop for any length of time you create a bottleneck and are quickly moved along, either by fellow punters or the staff responding to an 'incident'. This is probably another reason why no photographs are allowed. This apparently was an age when 'more was better' and the rooms are jam-packed with possessions, which add to a sense of clutter. It simply wasn't possible to stop and appreciate, as you were just constantly moved along.

The interior walk takes you through the Atelier of King D Carlos, the Arab Hall, the Manueline Cloisters and the Great Hall, finally exiting on the roof of the Kitchen which is also the restaurant. The Kitchen is on display with its various utensils. There is a Chapel to the rear, but this is not accessible. Your ticket does not allow you to take a second turn!

To us it all seemed terribly rushed and even here in low season the place was packed. To emphasise this point, we arrived back at the bus stop just as the 434 was pulling out. 30 minutes later, when the next bus turned up, there were 2 bus-loads of punters waiting to board. Lots of unhappy people, I can assure you. An interesting cameo was a group of 3 female French teenagers who attempted to queue-jump and were hauled back in short order by the tour-guide shepherding a group of 30-or-so Orientals. They managed to board, the teenagers had to wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (a muted cheer here!)

Back to the town station and the free Internet at the Municipal Library, where for €0.90 we printed out 9 sheets. The internet use is free and, unlike Mafra, appears to be time unlimited. However, like Mafra, the staff were really helpful and friendly.

Having finished our sightseeing in Sintra, visits which weren't supposed to have included the Police Station, it was 25 km to the coast and a little side-trip, just 'because we were there'! Cabo da Roca 14 km SW of Colares is officially the most westerly point in mainland Europe: Lat 38 57'North, Long 9 30'East and Altitude 140 m. It's hardly memorable as a headland, although it was packed out with tourists the whole time we were there. The Cape itself comprises little more than a lighthouse, a couple of shops, a cafe/restaurant and a Tourismo selling paintings and Certificates of your visit at €5 and €10 respectively. And to think we got them for free at both ends of The Nullarbor Plain in Australia! A cross at the Cape carries an inscription by Luis de Camoes - “here where the land ends and the sea begins”. Seemed pretty self-evident to us! Oh, don't expect solitude here, as both Saturday and Sunday the small headland was thronged with private vehicles and a never-ending stream of tourist coaches - obviously on the tourist route for some reason. Even Monday morning before we left the coaches were turning up in droves. City buses also run here, to and from Sintra.

So Monday morning, after a little overnight rain, it was back towards Sintra where we picked up the IC 19 towards Lisbon. The next stop was actually the Palacio de Queluz, virtually in the Lisbon suburbs, and we arrived with no difficulty having followed the brown 'Historico' signs from the motorway. After Mafra it was a delight to arrive and find the Palace and its previous outbuilding situated in immense public squares, so we were not only spoiled for parking but also for where we would stay overnight. Around the squares, previously Royal buildings have now been converted to other uses: Council, Army, Pousada, 5 Star Restaurant, etc.

Palacio de Queluz (not a Must-See): €15 buys you two entry tickets and a €1 brochure. Closed on Tuesdays. This Palace is one of Portugal's most sumptuous palaces, an elegant, restrained structure regarded as the country's finest example of Rococo architecture. Its low, pink-washed wings enclose a series of public and private rooms and suites, as well as rambling 18th century formal gardens. (In fact we spent as much time exploring the gardens as we did the Palace; so plenty to see.)

Although preserved as a museum, it doesn't feel like one, retaining instead a strong sense of its past Royal owners. The atmosphere was helped by actors in period costume walking the rooms and halls, and dancers in the Ambassador's Chamber. Ongoing restoration was also occurring, albeit in an apparently lack-lustre way with numerous asides for conversation etc.

The Palace was built by Dom Pedro III, husband and regent to his niece, Queen Maria I, who lived here throughout her 39-year reign (1777-1816), quite mad for the last 27 years following the death of her eldest son, Jose. You first enter the Throne Room, lined with mirrors surmounted by paintings and golden flourishes. Absolutely breath-taking. Beyond is the slightly more restrained Music Chamber with its portrait of Queen Maria above the French grand piano. Smaller quarters include bed and sitting rooms, a tiny oratory swathed with red velvet, and a Sculpture Room. Another wing comprises an elegant suite of public rooms - smoking, coffee and dining rooms - all intimate in scale and tastefully decorated, especially the ceilings. The Ambassador's Chamber, where the dancing was set (we think more for the benefit of school parties), echoes the Throne Room in style and it was here in the 19th century that diplomats and foreign ministers were met.

The formal gardens, even at this tail-end of the year, were a delight. Low box hedges and elaborate statues spread out from the Palace wings. Small pools, fountains, steps and terracing form a harmonious background to the building. Trees in the lower gardens cast shade and dappled light and the whole is alive with the sound of bird-song. There is a small riding arena and, more interestingly, a full sized (if short) Azulejo-lined canal, linked to the nearby river, which could be flooded and on which boats would float in splendour. It must have been magnificent in its day; and indeed even today easy to capture in the mind's eye. The river still runs at the bottom of the canal but the gates are open. Truly, the most magnificent gardens we have seen on this trip, the more-so when compared with the impoverished gardens at the Royal Palace at Sintra.

We stayed overnight on the square, close beside the statue of Queen Maria and right next to the 5-Star restaurant which certainly didn't seem over-busy. We watched the local bag/cat woman rummaging through the nearby wheelie-bins, returning twice to feed the dozen or so cats - including a Siamese - and obtaining scraps from the restaurant kitchen.

A 6 am start to beat the morning motorway traffic streaming into Lisbon, although so easy was the drive that by 6.30 we were back in bed for an hour's lie-in in the car park outside the Campismo Municipal. Take IC 19 to IC 17 and then follow the signs for Camping. If you check in before 7.30 am you pay for an extra day! On the day you leave check-out isn't until 7.30 pm, which seems amazingly generous.

Still, for €19 a night, and €1.45 bus fare from the city centre, you have the peace and security that you need; and during our entire two weeks here we didn't have more than a dozen motorhomes sharing the site with us at any one time. The individual bays have hook-ups for electricity and grey water right at your step, with individual water taps and a sink. You have your own litter bin and a rustic picnic set. The toilet blocks badly need upgrading, especially the female one, and yet again there are no washing machines, although this time, unlike Porto, there was abundant boiling-hot water. Question: will we ever find a site with toilet seats, and is there a big second-hand market for same? Actually that's two questions! The site itself is very green with numerous mature trees, none of which encroach on the bays. Wildlife is prolific with Red Squirrels and town birds (Blackbirds, Sparrows, White Wagtails, Robins etc) as well as Jays and Tawny Owls at night. Peaceful and idyllic would be my overall impression, with helpful staff and easy transport links.

Breakfast and a shower and it was Bus 714 towards town. A ticket for any bus, tram or metro within the city boundaries costs €1.45 (pay on board), although packs of tickets are apparently available. This first journey saw us alight half way into town, in Belem (pronounced Ber-layng), for a whole series of attractions which were to take most of the day. It was from Belem in 1497 that Vasco de Gama set sail for India, and here that he was welcomed back by Dom Manuel, 'The Fortunate' (O Venturoso). We had come to see the Monastery subsequently built here (Mosteiro dos Jeronimos), which stands as a testament to him and the riches that he brought to Portugal in what amounted to a 'Golden Age'. The Monastery stands at the site of the hermitage founded by Henry the Navigator, where Vasco de Gama and his companions spent their last night ashore in prayer.

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos: Even before the Great Earthquake of 1755, this was Lisbon's finest monument. Begun in 1502 and more or less completed by the time funding was withdrawn in 1551 by Joao III, the Monastery is arguably the most ambitious and successful achievement of Manueline architecture. It is less flamboyantly exotic than either Tomar or Batalha (see previously). Of its 2 architects, it was Joao de Castilho, taking over in 1517, who designed the main entrance to the church, a complex shrine-like hierarchy of figures centred around Henry the Navigator, who stands on a pedestal over the arch. Although showing an influence of contemporary Spanish style, it still has distinctly Manueline features and it took us ages to obtain satisfactory photographs, due to this being a prime site for group photos.

Just inside the church lie the tombs of Vasco de Gama (1468-1523) and the poet and recorder of the discoveries, Luis de Camoes (1527-70). Entrance to the church is free but €7/pp for the Cloisters et al, with no brochures in English at the time of our visit. The breathtaking sense of space inside the church places it among the great triumphs of European Gothic, although with Manueline additions. We had read that the six central columns could be described as palm-trees leaching into the rib-vaulting of the roof. We looked but couldn't see the analogy.

Through the semicircular apse, added in 1572, is the entrance to the double Cloister, vaulted throughout and fantastically embellished. Again we have a balance of Gothic and Renaissance ,with the Manueline additions of ropes, anchors, the sea, etc. In the wings of the monastery are 2 museums but we intend to visit these on Sunday, together with a number of other attractions billed as FREE on that day.

So that was that until Sunday and so, with our back to the Monastery, it was but a short walk through gardens enhanced by fountains and down to the river's edge. To get there you have to pass through a subway, which takes you beneath the road and the Metro/Tram 15, but with numerous people around we didn't feel intimidated. I mention this as Lisbon has something of a reputation for criminality, especially pick-pockets, and by now we had lost track of the number of people who had warned us. So with gilet tightly zipped and the camera bag held to the front, it was on to the photo opportunity that is the Padrao dos Descobrimentos.

The Monument to the Discoveries (audio-visual show inside) is an angular slab of concrete in the shape of a caravel, erected in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. Henry appears on the prow with Camoes and other Portuguese heroes. To our mind the cast of heroes is different on both sides but we'll have to inspect our photos further. This is a truly photogenic area with the parks, the river, the Monastery behind and the Ponte 25 de Abril to the east (25th April Bridge, commemorating Liberty Day - the 1974 Revolution).

From here it was a delightful ramble west along the river to the last monument of the morning, the Belem Tower (Torre de Belem). Still washed on three sides by the sea, the tower stands 500 m west of the Monastery. Whimsical, multi-turreted and with a real 'hat in the air' exuberance, it was built over the last 5 years of Dom Manuel's reign (1515-20) as a fortress to safeguard the approach to Lisbon's harbour. Before the great earthquake shifted the river's course, it stood virtually in the middle of the river, just as the river waters lapped close to the Monastery. Such isolation has enshrined it as the one completely Manueline building in Portugal, the others being adaptations. The joint ticket for the Monastery and Tower was €10/pp.

Its architect was Francisco de Arruda and, as he had worked previously on fortifications in Morocco, a Moorish influence is clearly visible in windows and balconies. Also prominent are the two great symbols of that age: the armillary sphere representing the globe and the cross of the military Order of Christ. The view from the uppermost rampart is excellent, but inside there is little of note apart from numerous small cannon and the miniscule dungeon where Dom Miguel (1828-34) kept political prisoners. And yes, Sandra did find and photograph the carving of the rhinoceros, or is it a hippopotamus?

Time for lunch and so it was back to the Monastery where we boarded the 714, riding to its terminus at Praca da Figuera. A rubbish meal in a sidewalk restaurant, constantly bothered by beggars and strolling musicians, and then back through the square to Tourismo for directions to Tram 28 (a Must-Do/See). A pleasant young man produced a map and entered directions before warning us about pickpockets - a warning that was repeated by 2 police officers as we struggled to find Praca da Martim Moniz and the tram. Then it was there and back for €1.45/pp each way. This is allegedly the best tram route, which runs from Graca to Prazeres though the most interesting stretch is from Sao Vicente to the Estrela gardens passing through Rua da Conceicao in the Baixa area of the city.

It was certainly a bumpy, jolting stop-start ride and I certainly wouldn't wish to return as a tram-driver. Finishing the journey as we did in late afternoon, the tram was packed for most of the return journey and at one stage we thought there was going to be violence as an elderly male attempted to correct a younger and thuggish looking one. The latter 'got right in his face' but the elderly man was 'saved' by a younger and fitter male passenger coming to his aid. Obviously we couldn't understand the language but the body posturing was obvious and everyone was engaged for some time. Eventually the thuggish chap disembarked. As well as this, the tram driver had to contend with Portuguese drivers and pedestrians and vehicles parked too near, or even across, the tram tracks. One such vehicle caused a delay of over 5 minutes. After the driver sounded his bell on and off, and called the depot to pass on the vehicle details, the young driver suddenly appeared bearing a picture and art goods. Every pedestrian seemed to be upbraiding him regarding his thoughtlessness.

So finally back to Praca da Figueira and the 714 back to the Campismo. In spite of the gridlock rush hour traffic, buses run on or alongside the tram/metro tracks so the journey was rapid and uneventful and the perfect end to a spectacularly successful first day. Oh yes, the Belem Tarts? Well, custard tarts are custard tarts anywhere in the world and, although tasty, I'm glad we didn't come all this way just for some confectionery!

Days 2 and 3 were 'down days' for laundry, again with no washing machines although copious hot water. No restrictions about where you hang your clothes, as no clothes-lines are provided. Weather remains good for the Castle and Cathedral tomorrow, as well as a walk down through the Alfama district to the riverfront.

AND THEN IT RAINED and our plans went out the window! 3 days of lashing torrential rain. Family reported later that they had viewed Moto-GT at Estoril and it was the same or worse there. Then both Sandra and I developed some form of 'gastric flu' which laid us up for a further 48-72 hours. It's then that you realise just how cosy a motorhome can be!
Finally back to the sightseeing and 2 monuments and one suburb in one day - not bad going.

The 714 into town and a stiff and arduous climb to the Castelo de Sao Jorge. Apart from the muscle-tearing trauma of the ascent (we would have been better taking the bus from Praca Figueira), the most upsetting feature was the number of 'rough sleepers' that we came upon, all of them still fast asleep. Cardboard boxes, old coats and blankets - the smell was just disgusting, with as many women as men. At €7/pp entrance fee the Castle is a total rip-off and one that is better avoided. It may have a colourful history, and indeed humanity has been present at this site from the 4th century BC, but the current remains are nothing more or less than a rip-off tourist trap. The fortress walls hold nothing but space and the views afforded from the ramparts can be equalled at any of the numerous Miradors scattered through this part of the city. Bus-loads of tourists were being decanted in at the main gate, to exit 15 minutes later wondering what had been worth €7. There is a small lack-lustre museum, and that's the extent of the history.

From here it was downhill and slightly east to wander the alleyways of the Alfama (the next of the 'Must-Sees'). The oldest part of Lisbon, stumbling from the walls of the Castle down to the Rio Tejo, Alfama was buttressed against significant damage in the 1755 earthquake by the steep rocky mass on which it is built. Although none of the houses date from before the Christian conquest, many are of Moorish design. In Arab-occupied times the Alfama was the grandest part of the city, and continued to be so after the Christian reconquest. However, following subsequent earthquakes the new Christian nobility moved out, leaving it to the local fishing community. Today, although an increasing number of tourist-orientated Fado restaurants are in evidence, the quarter retains a largely traditional life of its own. The alleys and passageways are known as 'becos' and 'travessas' rather than 'ruas', and it would be impossible (as well as futile) to try and follow any set route. We just kept heading downhill until we arrived at the main road which parallels the riverbank and then boarded the 794 for the next stop on our itinerary.

This was the Museo National do Azulejo. What a gem this turned out to be, and one which should not be missed. Installed in the church and cloisters of Madre de Deus, a former Convent dating from 1509, the Museum traces the development of tile-making from Moorish days to the present. It starts on the first floor entry with a detailed description - with examples - of tile making through the centuries. This is a fascinating story and the Museum contains a hugely impressive collection of Azelujos covering the main styles of tile from the 15th century to the present day.

The Church itself has a Baroque interior, installed after the earthquake of 1755, and it still retains striking 18th century tiled scenes of the life of Saint Anthony. But most of the Museum is set in the church cloisters, which house many more delights including Portugal's longest Azulejo - a wonderfully detailed 36-metre panorama of Lisbon, completed in around 1738 (top/third floor but unfortunately no signage to relate it to modern day Lisbon) - and fascinating examples of the large Azulejo panels known as 'carpets'.

I am tempted to give a short description of 'Azulejos' (derived from the Arabic al-zulecha meaning 'small stone') but better if you Google it, should you feel so moved. We just found the entire collection breath-taking, and at €5/pp entrance fee an absolute bargain.

We took both coffee and pastries, and then the set lunch, in the delightful cafe which abuts a central courtyard, set with tables should you wish to eat outside. The meal was excellent and although I just had the 'boring' vegetable soup as starters, Sandra had a vol-au-vent stuffed with goat's cheese (the menu actually read 'she-goat's cheese), honey and walnuts. Mains were Pork Chops or Scabbard Fish. Truly an excellent lunch. Another excellent day, with only one disappointment to one 'Must-See' and then the Tile Museum as an unexpected GEM.

Our penultimate day in Lisbon and one of the remaining 'Must-Sees', Bairro Alto. Having said this, however, we would not have lost out if we'd ignored it! During the day the narrow 17th century streets are residential, apparently changing their character with the evening and darkness, when the area flowers as the focus of 'Fado', Portugal's most famous musical form. Fado may loosely be translated as 'yearning' or 'melancholy' and the Portuguese are frankly amazed that any non-Portuguese speaker can be interested or even understand the language of the music, since so much of it is in poetic lyrics. Knowing that so many of the 'Fado Clubs' are nothing more than 'tourist traps', we were disinterested in sampling the nightlife.

Approaching the district from Praca Restauradores, just NW of Praca Figueira, we boarded the Elevador de Gloria (funicular tram) for the €1.45/pp 2-minute climb from behind the Palacio de Foz tourist office to Rua Sao Pedro d'Alcantara. The tram no sooner starts than you are there, which didn't seem V(alue) F(or) M(oney). Then it was straight down Rua da Misericordia to Praca Luis Camoes and downhill on Rua das Flores to the bus. There are actually two funicular trams but to get to the Elevador de Bica one had to walk uphill from Praca Luis Camoes, which hardly seemed sensible given the length of journey and proximity to the riverside. An uneventful non-event, but another tick on the list, then back to the campsite for lunch.

And so our final day and the final 'Must-See', the Museo Gulbenkian. Astonishingly, all the major museum exhibits were acquired by just one man, the Armenian oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian (1869-1955). During WWII Gulbenkian literally auctioned himself and his collections to the European nations: Portugal bid security, an aristocratic palace home (a marquis was asked to move out), and tax exemption, in order to acquire one of the most important cultural patrons of the century. Today, in the capital alone, the Gulbenkian Foundation runs an orchestra, three concert halls and two galleries, whilst financing work in all spheres of Portuguese cultural life.

So, for the last time, we took the outgoing 714 to Praca Figueria and then a short walk to Praca Restauradores, where we boarded the Blue Line Metro to take us to Praca do Espana. The Museum, which is set in the Parque Santa Gertrudes, is just a 300 m walk down Avenida de Berna. It was €4/pp for the Museum entry and a further whopping €4 per item for an audio-aid. ABOMINABLE, especially as the signage is minimal and mediocre, albeit in Portuguese and English. The Pamphlet is free.

The Museum takes up the ground floor of the building and is separated into rooms, or a series of rooms, each room or set covering a specific epoch. So you enter into the mediocre rooms covering Egyptian Art and then Greco-Roman Art, before moving on to Mesopotamian Art. Sequentially then you have: Eastern Islamic Art, Armenian Art, and Far Eastern Art. European art is separated into Ivories and Illuminated manuscripts 10-16th century, then Painting and Sculpture 15-17th centurt, European Art Sculpture, Medals, Decorative Arts and the Arts of the Book 15-17th century, Decorative Arts France 18th century, Painting and Sculpture France 18th century, Silverware, European Art Painting and Sculpture 18-19th century, Paintings by Francesco Guardi, Painting and Sculpture France 19th century, and finally the magnificent 'Works by Rene Lalique' Rooms.

I won't go into details regarding the many beautifully displayed exhibits but suggest you visit www.museo.gulbenkian.pt  For us it was an interesting hour or so but we wished we had visited on a Sunday, when admission is free, or filled one of the less rainy days with a visit here. Back to camp to prepare for tomorrow's departure. Still, with a departure time which can be as late as 7 pm there is really no rush.

So, what did we think of Lisbon, and would we visit again? Enjoyable, but we preferred Porto, and whilst we would revisit Coimbra we wouldn't return here. We loved the Mosterio dos Jeronimos and the walks by the Rio Tejo and associated monuments. Similarly we loved the Tile Museum, even though none of these mentioned so far were rated with 'Must-See' status! The trams were enjoyable and the public transport system couldn't be faulted for price or convenience. As for much of the other, we should not have felt cheated if we had been forced to miss them altogether!

So, that's the end of another section and now south to the Alantejo with Evora, 135 km away, as the one and only 'Must-See'. Given this, we have decided to combine this Province with the Algarve where we have three: the Lagos Coastline, Albufuera and finally the sand island of Tavira.

THE ALENTEGO

And so finally, after a lengthy (for us) 2 week stay, we left Lisbon and the several fellow travellers we had come to know at the Municipal Campsite. The staff leave you with your camp passes as a memento but didn't ask if we would be returning. On request you are even given a photocopied map of the roads and motorways in the immediate vicinity, with a route drawn so you can exit north or south without difficulty. For us it was the A2 south leaving the city over the April the 25th Bridge. A2-A6-N4 and finally the N 114 into Evora. Having said that, and with part of the excavations in Evora being contained within the Town Hall (Mon-Fri 9-5), we decided to stop 10 km short of the city at the little village of Guadalupe and the Menhir dos Almendres and the Cromeleque (stone circle) dos Almendres.

Wonderfully signposted from the main road, you skirt the village of Guadalupe and then drive up a gravel road, with parking easily available at the village exit should you decide to walk or bike. It's actually 4.2 km each way with the access being uphill: 1.6 km to the menhir dos Almendres and then a further 2.6 km to the Circle of Almendres. Also be warned that small tourist buses ferry punters to these landmarks. We saw one enter just as we left; we certainly would not have wished to meet one along the gravel access road.

So it was 1.6 km to the road-side parking area, and a further 300 m walk to the menhir itself. The vegetation here is primarily Cork Oak with some mixed forest and Olive and birds are everywhere. The menhir of Almendres, an elongated ovoid in shape, is a characteristic example of menhirs in the Evora region. Dating from the Early/Middle Neolithic period it apparently reveals, on the upper part, a crook engraved in low relief - a common motif connected with the agricultural/pastoral culture of Neolithic peoples. Unfortunately the entire menhir is now so covered with lichen that we couldn't spot anything. The location of this single menhir appears to be related to the megalithic enclosure of Almendres (see below), given that it corresponds to an elementary astronomic direction: the alignment of the two monuments coincides with sunrise on the summer solstice.

Cromeleque dos Almendres

The biggest megalithic monument in the Iberian Peninsula, and one of the more ancient monuments of humanity, consists of nearly one hundred monoliths, some of them with engravings. It has an oval shaped plan, resulting from enlargements and remodellings that took place over time. Originally it may have been a horseshoe-shaped structure with an opening to the East, as is common with other known megalithic monuments in the region.

7000 years old (Ancient Neolithic), its function is unknown. Recent archaeological data have clearly shown a positional relationship of some monoliths with astronomic movements of the sun and the moon at equinoxes and solstices. On the other hand, some of the menhirs could constitute, at monumental scale, the first sculptural representation of power lineages. However, what's immediately clear even today is the power of the site, the stones resembling frozen figures, standing impassively, gazing down across the surrounding cork plantation to Evora gleaming in the distance.

That night we parked among the oak trees and had the darkest and most silent night for some considerable time. The only sounds the soughing of the winds through the tree tops and the occasional rattle as an acorn bounced on our roof. Through the front screens we could see Evora as a focus of lights in the middle distance. What a delight after the constant noise and light pollution of any campsite and any city and, though on the second of our two nights here we were joined by 5 French Crusties in 2 battered whizz-bangs (panel van campers), to us it was still an idyllic spot.

Monday morning and into Evora

Evora was shaped by its Roman and Moorish occupations: the former is commemorated by a temple, the latter by a characteristic tangle of alleys, rising steeply among the whitewashed houses. Most of the city's other monuments, however, date from the 14th-16th century, when Evora prospered under the patronage of the ruling House of Avis. To them are owed the many noble palaces scattered about the city, as is the Jesuit University and the wonderful array of Manueline and Renaissance buildings. Having said that, we had but three items on our itinerary: the Roman Temple, the Chapel of Bones and the Roman ruins in the Town Hall.

Templo Romano - the only Must-See in the Province

The graceful remains stand at the very heart of the old city, although we had some difficulty finding them due to a paucity of signage once you enter the walls. Access to the Templo Romano is shown on 2 signs as you circle the walls on the peripheral road, but once through the wall you are better making for Tourismo or just asking. Dating from the 2nd century AD, it is the best preserved Roman temple in Portugal, despite its use as an execution ground during the Inquisition and a slaughterhouse until 1870. The remains consist of a small platform supporting 14 granite columns with Corinthian capitals and a marble entablature. Although attributed to Diana, Jupiter is the more likely. There is an attractive garden to one side and the Pousada to the other. From the garden you have views over the surrounding countryside.

Just a mention of the medieval aqueduct (Aqueduto do Agua Prata - Silver Water Aqueduct) which is well worth a look as it enters the town.

The Igreja de Sao Francisco and the Chapel of Bones (Capela dos Ossos) are not to be missed at €2/pp. Situated on the eastern side of May 1st Square, the Igreja contains perhaps the most memorable monument in Evora. The Chapel of Bones is a timeless and gruesome memorial to the mortality of man. The walls, pillars and window recesses of this chilling chamber are entirely covered in the bones of more than 5,000 monks. During the 15th-16th centuries there were 42 monastic cemeteries in town which took up much-needed space. The Franciscans' neat solution was to move all the remains to one compact, consecrated site. There is a grim humour in the ordered, artfully planned arrangement of skulls, tibias, vertebrae and pelvises around the vaults, and in the rhyming inscription over the door which reads 'Nos ossos que aqui estamos pelos vossos esperamos' (We bones here are waiting for your bones). It's actually not as gruesome as it sounds. It's dry with no smell of putrefaction, even though there is a corpse (or a representation of a corpse) hanging rotting from one of the side walls. The bones are plastered/cemented into place and I particularly liked the juxtaposition of skulls and pelvises with the former sitting atop the latter. I must comment clinically, however, that these are not the bones of 5,000+ individuals so I imagine there is some 'poetic licence' involved.

And so finally back to the centre of town and the Camera Municipal (town hall). In the recent past Evora's other major Roman remain was discovered beneath this building and you are free to visit, view and photograph during normal business hours, Mon-Fri 9-5.30. The Termes Romanas (Roman Baths) originate from a century earlier than the Roman Temple and include an arched brick doorway - the entrance to an extraordinary room with a circular hot and steam bath that's 9 m in diameter. You stand at a balcony to the rear of the entry hall in the town hall and look down. Not to be missed are the 6 FREE computer terminals (staff are happy to put in the Password), although the area is also Wi-Fi accessible should you bring your own laptop.

Leaving Evora and the rain and high winds that had started that morning and which made our itinerary even more fixed, we drove back towards Montemor and the N 253 to Alcacer do Sal on the estuary of the River Sado. Travellers we had met in Lisbon had eulogised about the free campsite beside the river with water and toilets etc. To us it was a nightmare, with motorhomes sharing the scant U-shaped parking with cars visiting the adjacent hostelry. Not at all our 'cup of tea' and so we continued on towards Santiago de Cacem, stopping in a huge lay-by where, as the rain lashed down, we stayed the night.
Gratefully the next morning dawned cloudy with episodic sun, although a stiff and chilly wind. Still, at least it wasn't raining.

Our next stop was Mirobriga and the Roman ruins. So it was IC1-IC33-N261, which brings you into Santiago do Cacem on the road running past the ruins. A large car park and imposing gates unfortunately belie the paucity of work done here. I doubt that any work or upgrades have occurred during the last 10 years, which seems such a shame. The museum/ interpretation centre is tiny, with nothing in English whatsoever. Luckily, as the only visitors of any nationality, we were given a prospectus in English and this at least enabled us to identify the minimal items on display in poorly lit cases. It may well be that the majority of the artefacts are now in the museum in the nearby town, but this detracts from the site itself.

Having said that, however, and at only €3/pp, we found the site a sad and pale reflection of both Segobriga and Conimbriga. The only monuments of interest were the Public Baths with the adjacent Roman Bridge, which is actually one of the finest we have seen. These and the partly rebuilt Temple of Jupiter constitute pretty much the entire site. There is minimal signage in both English and French, though the English is definitely by a Portuguese speaking, but not understanding, English. You see the same in India.

Mirobriga was first inhabited during the Iron Age, and the Roman city here dates from the 1^st century AD. For 200 years Mirobriga thrived on trade - a new town of its era. By the 4th century AD it was in decline and was then lost to history until the 16th century. It was not excavated until the 19th century.

Unlike the two other Roman cities mentioned above, we were round the site in just over an hour, so don't make plans for a long stay. Then, as it was only early afternoon, we carried on southwards, finishing our day's journey at Vila Nova de Milfontes on the estuary of the River Mira, just 300 m from the headland and with views of the old ivy-covered castle and the estuary itself. One of the most picturesque spots we have wild-camped at, with only a UK- plated whizz-bang and 2 lovely youngsters from Melbourne in the bay next to us. We had a blustery showery overnight with vehicles running backwards and forwards into the wee small hours. The Police passed without giving us a second look and even waved when we did.

The following morning we walked the town from the centre to the headland, venturing down into the myriad little bays that flank the river itself. We were interested to find a small square near the castle with a plaque and plinth bearing a small bi-plane: testament to intrepid aviators who in 1924 took 4 months to fly from here to Macao. The castle seems to be a private home and not apparently open to the public. There is an interesting statue on the traffic island at the tip of the headland road and some panoramic views. Doubt if much commercial fishing occurs from here today, as the river mouth appears silted up. Not so in the past, when Hannibal and his fleet took shelter here.

Anyway, as a result of our perambulations we had become aware of more remote parking on the other side (southern bank) of the river - much more our style. Leaving the village you rejoin the main road south and cross the bridge. Approx 3 km further on there is a sign for Praia Furnas and a rather rough but surfaced road that takes you straight down to the river bank and a small bar/restaurant. Absolutely idyllic and away from passing traffic. Anyway, by now we had been joined by 2 British motorhomes, one French and another Spanish, so escape to a larger more rural site was definitely indicated.

Two idyllic days on the estuary with glorious sunshine. Waking on the Friday to grey, leaden skies, and knowing that the weekend was to bring rain, we drove the 100 km south to Cabo de Sao Vicente outside Sagres. In so doing we passed from the Alentego into the Algarve. Passing through Odemira, Sao Teotonio, Odeceixe, Aljezur, Carrapateira, and Vila do Bispo there were innumerable signs to the beaches which line this part of the coast. In fact we only stopped the once, at a spring to fill up our water tanks and drinking water bottles.

THE ALGARVE

Sagres and its wild and windswept cape were considered by the Portuguese as the far limit of the world. It was on these headlands in the 15th century that Prince Henry the Navigator made his residence and it was here, too, that he set up a School of Navigation, gathering together the greatest astronomers, cartographers and adventurers of his age. Fernao de Magalhaes (Magellan), Pedro Alvares Cabral and Vasco de Gama all studied at Sagres, and from the beach at Belixe - midway between the Capes of Sagres and Sao Vicente - the first long caravels were launched, revolutionising shipping with their wide hulls, small adaptable sails and ability to sail close to the wind. Each year new expeditions were dispatched to penetrate a little further than their predecessors and to resolve the great navigational enigma presented by the west coast of Africa, thereby laying the foundations of the country's overseas empire.

The exposed Cabo de Sao Vicente (Cape St Vincent), across the bay from Sagres, was sacred to the Romans, who called it Promontorium Sacrum and believed the sun sank hissing into the water beyond here every night. Now there is only the Lighthouse, the most powerful in Europe, and its attendant buildings, together with a cluster of tatty touristy stalls selling woollen goods, postcards, polished stone and jewellery. The soaring cliffs are allegedly a 'twitcher's dream', with Peregrine, Rock Doves, Bonelli's Eagles, Kites, Storks and Blue Rock Thrushes (the latter in Spring and Summer on the cliff paths from Sagres to the Cape). We must have been unlucky as we saw only Gulls, Black Redstarts, Stonechats and a Buzzard. The Lighthouse complex has a small museum, €3/pp entry, with a large resin statue of a seated Henry the Navigator in the foyer.

However for us it was a 'no-no', as no photographs were allowed inside and we couldn't be guaranteed that there was signage in English. Disappointingly most of the Lighthouse complex is 'off limits' including the walkway down to the mirador set part way down on the cliff face. Local fisherman with rod and line fish from the cliffs themselves.

A word of warning - don't stay on the cliffs overnight, as we did. You would have expected it to be quiet but there were vehicles and loud voices all through the night, as people visited to see the Lighthouse in action and also fishermen were able to use the treacherous drop-off due to the light itself. On the 6 km stretch of road back to Sagres we saw the first signs prohibiting the overnight parking of caravans and, we imagine, motorhomes.

So, after a very disturbed night, it was back to Sagres and the Fortaleza of Henry the Navigator. The structure cannot be missed as it dominates the entire surrounding area, even though it annexes a promontory. In front of the Fortaleza are a series of large car parks and it appeared that one had been adopted by motorhomes as a free campsite. We parked up and walked the half km to the immense north wall of the fortification and the imposing entry portal and Bastion. In truth the north wall is the only one that still exists intact, although as a white cement behemoth.

€3/pp purchases entry to what is essentially the tip of the promontory, for the main part overgrown with rank vegetation and playing host to innumerable fishermen poised on the cliff edges. The most notable exhibit, on the left just after you enter, is the immense Wind Rose or Wind Compass. This was first discovered and excavated in 1919 with final completion in 1959. Wind Compasses were used to measure the direction of the wind but most are divided into 30 segments. This one is unusual in that its 43-metre diameter is divided into 40 segments. This then throws into question whether it is in fact a genuine Wind Compass with 2 alternative theories propounded: 1) A vertical gnomon sundial or solar quadrant, which is a 16th century construction used for educational purposes to support the area's large-scale naval and military activity; or 2) a simple store for drying fish or a space used for entertainment or religious purposes, reminiscent of a prehistoric ritual enclosure. The best view of the pebble-built construction is to be gained by climbing the slope to the Bastion and looking down. There is signage here and also on the ground adjacent to the circle.

Within the complex we also have the chapel of Nossa Senhora da Graca which, although much restored, is attributed to the 15th century. Apart from this there is little else to see, although a wander along the perimeter of the promontory makes a pleasant interlude with its several educational pieces explaining sailing, tides, wind and sails, solar energy, Portuguese maritime history and the discoveries, etc. Unfortunately many of these exhibits are no longer working. Sections of the old wall have also been restored to a degree and there are rotting cannon at several locations, indicative of where the defensive batteries would have been situated. To all sides one has stunning panoramic views and on the day we visited the local Bishop was holding an open air service beside the chapel with the cliffs and sea as an impressive backdrop.

Leaving the Fortaleza it was back to Vila do Bispo and the Lagos Road for our next Must-See, the Lagos Coastline. To this end we exited the N 125 and drove towards the coast at Salema, 20 km west of Lagos. A popular seaside venue in season, currently uncrowded and pleasant, with motorhomes parked to the rear of the old village. These, we were informed later, had been here and occupied for several years. Turning towards Lagos we discovered the beach we had been looking for, as we needed somewhere to sit out the bad weather we had been informed was looming large. This turned out to be Praia, where we joined another 8 motorhomes including the UK-plated Hymer of Keith and Pam, full-timers originating from Chesterfield where they still have a property they rent out. They are on their way to revisit Morocco and then intend to return home, sell the motorhome and build a self-build camper.

Actually we hadn't been long settled when we were assailed by Ken and his wife, expatriates living locally and currently building a campsite. They were keen to have our custom at €2.50/night, with laundry for €1/load using their domestic washing machine. They regaled us with stories of the GRE arriving in the wee small hours to drive us away (something to do with a 1 km law recently instigated and aimed at wild-campers). Gratefully nothing untoward happened, although it was a stormy rain-lashed night parked as we were within 20 m of the sea itself.

A quiet if rainy weekend was lightened only by the teeming birdlife both on the beach, sea and marshland immediately abutting the beach. The latter yielded numerous Little Egrets, Grey Heron, Crested Larks and Skylarks, together with Wagtails and Robins. The beach teemed episodically with gulls, whilst just out to sea Shags gathered to dive in competition with Gannets, both adult and immature, plummeting into the sea. A truly wonderful spectacle.

Monday started brighter, though with a sprinkling of showers, and we decided to press on to Lagos. Back to the N 125 and then in again at Burgau, Lux and finally Lagos itself. Have to say the back road was rather a waste of time, as the sea and cliffs were invisible until we arrived at Lagos itself. On a pleasant drive along the esplanade, we stopped to enquire about boat trips at the Marina Tourismo. No joy, as with the time of year and paucity of tourists nothing was available.

Still, we walked the environs and then continued east towards Albufeira - and CATASTROPHE! We were just outside Lagoa (not Lagos) and stopped at some traffic lights when a Smart Car shunted us from behind. No worries about minor repairs to our bumper this time, as his vehicle bonnet sheared it cleanly in two. The only positive was that, the Smart Car being a low vehicle, there was no damage to the rear of the motorhome as the bonnet, including the sump protector, ran in under the rear seating. We can even appreciate how it occurred, as we had just passed a German cyclist on one of those machines that you lie back on to pedal. We were momentarily distracted but our Portuguese friend behind obviously took time for a longer look before embedding himself in our rear. Both the Portuguese driver and a nearby householder rang the Police, with 3 Officers turning up shortly afterwards. The German cyclist was kind enough to hang around and provide a statement and support, although in fairness the Portuguese driver accepted full responsibility.

The Traffico were marvellous, with all three speaking some English. The appropriate forms were filled in and both the other driver and I were breathalysed; SOP (Standard Operating Procedure). Then one of the Police Officers requested that the Portuguese driver guide us to his insurer about 10 km away, so that the appropriate forms could be completed and arrangements made. And that's what occurred. Unfortunately we shall have to have the repairs done here or be low-loaded back to Spain, as we have no rear lights, number plate or indicators and, quite frankly, we were amazed that the Officer was prepared to let us drive away.

After lunch the Insurance Broker for Mundial directed us to Ferreiras and an alleged repairer. Knowing we were actually illegal didn't help and, when we found the body-shop, it was to be informed that they didn't repair motorhomes and knew of no-one locally. As dusk was falling we settled in to wild-camp opposite the football ground for a peaceful overnight.

The next morning we made our way back towards Albufeira and Parque de Campismo Albufeira, where we based ourselves for the next 4 days, for €18/night including electricity, but up to €30/night in high season (www.campingalbufeira.net). Although it's a huge site with all manner of occupancy options (motorhomes, caravans, tents, bungalows, residential static homes etc), of maximal importance to us was the free Wi-Fi, again in the vicinity of the Bar/Restaurant. There were not too many on the huge site, which we imagine must be packed in Summer. Quite a large proportion of the occupants seemed to be Brits. Anyway, Tuesday was just taken up with emails regarding the accident/insurance etc, with follow-up on Wednesday.

Thursday we went into Albufeira - and what a dismal 'tourist trap' we found it to be. Now please remember that this is just our opinion, as we would normally travel miles in order to avoid a resort like this, Benidorm or Malaga. We caught the Red Tourist Bus No1 from the camp entrance and for €1.10/pp single travelled the 3 miles to the outskirts of Albufeira. It was clean and cheerful but nothing other than shop after shop and restaurant after restaurant. We walked down to the beach and then east along the beach walkway. Back to the bus stop for the remainder of the loop, which takes you towards the Marina and the Fort although the bus doesn't reach either. Then it was the bus depot, where we stayed in the bus before completing the loop back to the Camp.

This morning, Friday, we had a phone call to say that the tow truck/low loader was at the gate and, whilst we had been informed that they were only there to inspect and give an opinion, we ended up being loaded onto a 'far-too-small' low loader for a 'hairy' drive to a SCRAP YARD. It then became increasingly frenetic and confused, as involved parties speaking English, Spanish, Spanglish and EngPort (made that up) attempted to determine: 1) why were we there? 2) where was the Repair Shop? 3) were we to be repaired locally or returned to Spain? I have to admit that it became a bit fractious at times, especially when the scrap yard manager came up with a repair bill of €1,700 which he wanted from me in its entirety.

Gratefully the Spanish Breakdown Assist eventually came to a negotiated settlement: 1) we stay here until they can organise a multi-vehicle transporter to return Mr C to Elche, Spain, though unfortunately the vehicle will be collecting and dropping off other vehicles, so 2) once they know when the transporter is due, they will organise a taxi to collect us from here and drop us on the other side of the Spanish Border, where a hire car will have been arranged. We then have the car for 24 hrs to get ourselves home.

We believe that Mr C will be returned to Caravanas Cruz and they will contact us when Mr C arrives to a hero's welcome, but in the meanwhile we shall take photographs of the affected parts such that David and Miguel at CC can get on with an estimate and ordering. Paula at Broker-Segur Seguros, Madrid (our Insurance Company) informs us that Miguel in stores has already confirmed that some of the parts will take approx 3weeks to source from Italy, but then only 2-3 days to complete repairs.

That of course will be another story.

Best Wishes and safe travels,

Bob & Sandra

Footnote

In an email on 2 December 2010, Dr Bob wrote:

“Just heard from the Insurance that Mr C arrived in Elche at Caravanas Cruz on Tuesday as promised. Miguel at CC has already confirmed the damage to the handbrake was caused by the Portuguese Recovery driver. This will need to be repaired at the nearby Fiat dealer in Elche as well. Our Insurer has informed the appropriate parties so all we can do is await the decision of the asssessor who arrives tomorrow. Currently Miguel is sourcing the parts requiring replacement and we can only hope most of these are in Spain.”

In a final email on the subject of his extended motorhome journey through Portugal, Dr Bob writes: