A HAPPY NEW YEAR IN THE PELOPONNESE 2010

Margaret Williamson
February 2010

Click: Gallery and Slide Show of Images

Northern Europe lay deep in December's snow as we left England to drive to our favourite port: Ancona, the gateway to Greece!

On New Year's Eve, aboard the 'Olympic Champion', we had an excellent cabin and a delicious dinner, cooked with the world's finest olive oil. Where better to celebrate the arrival of 2010 than on the Adriatic, sailing smoothly towards our favourite country?

Over breakfast the ferry called at Igoumenitsa before navigating the lovely Ionian Islands. Reaching Patras on a warm peaceful afternoon, we headed south into the Peloponnese where Spring had arrived early. The olive groves, their bounty harvested for another year, lay under a thick carpet of yellow oxalis. Lambs and kids already frisked in the fields, the citrus orchards were laden with golden fruit, the hedgerows studded with purple patches of wild iris.

Our first landmark was the medieval castle of Chlemoutsi above Kastro, watching over the Plain of Elis. We found a brand new museum among the extensive ruins of Ancient Elis (the city which organised the Olympic Games in the classical world).

Further south, a detour into the mountains led to the temple of Apollo at Bassae. Looming out of the mist, a marquee protecting it from the elements up at 1100 m, the site was simply breathtaking.

Continuing down the unspoilt west coast, we climbed inland again to Nestor's Palace (mentioned by Homer), set among vineyards where the superb wine bearing the Nestor label is produced.

Pylos on Navarino Bay made a good base, with a pair of castles, a wetlands lagoon where flamingos winter, and a waterfall at Schinolakia. Our favourite place is Methoni at the south-west tip of the Messinian peninsula, because we were married there one summer's day! Its splendid Venetian Castle was paired with Koroni Castle, at the south-east tip: the 'Eyes of Venice'.

Turning inland, Ancient Messini is another little-known archaeological site - the widespread remains of a substantial city beneath mighty walls. A taverna in the humble village of Mavromati overlooks the excavations.

Heading north through the mountains of Arcadia, our return route took in the dramatic castle at Karitena, and the lofty villages of Stemnitsa and Dimitsana above the Lousios Gorge. A gorge-ous walk led to Ancient Gortis and several early churches, while Dimitsana's Museum of Water Power is a more modern attraction.

The road twisted and turned, following the contour lines clustered on our SatNav screen, until the craggy village of Langadia. Then it descended to Olympia, site of the most famous classical games, with its museum of superlative sculptures. The Olympic Flame is still lit here, in the ruins of the Temple of Zeus.

Reluctantly we returned to Patras for another Anek ferry. The Peloponnese contains enough sights for a lifetime's exploration, along with a wealth of hills and beaches to walk and a colourful array of wildflowers, birds and butterflies (even in January). It makes an uncrowded winter destination and we'll be back - perhaps on the ferry from Venice.

In the Port of Ancona
ANEK Ferry in the Greek Port of Patras
Lake Kotyche Black-winged Stilts
Chlemoutsi Castle
Sundown over Zakinthos
Methoni Harbour
Snow on the Taigetos
Ancient Messini
Ancient Messini
Early Spring Flowers
Arcadia
Sunset on the Adriatic