The Webbs Winter Tour 2010/11

Cindy Webb
October 2010 - January 2011

For other travel articles by the Webbs on this website, click: The Webb Collection.

For a Gallery and Slide Show of Images of this journey, click: Images of the Webbs Winter Tour.

FRANCE

Setting out in mid-October we hoped to combine empty campsites/Aires with balmy Autumn sunshine.

Our first stop at St Valery sur Somme would in fact be an excellent weekend trip, handy for Calais. It's a lovely town with an excellent Aire and plenty of cycling clearly mapped in circuits varying between 10-20 km around the coastline, while in the town itself descriptive boards (in English as well as French) have been placed along the quayside giving the history and background to this delightful little place.

Next stop was Mont St Michel, just because we like parking on the spit (€10 for 24 hrs) and walking around the citadel.

Our main aim to start the trip was exploring the 3 French Atlantic islands – Ile de Noirmoutier, Ile de Re and Ile d'Oleron. The Vendee generally is either reclaimed land or very marshy and the land is dotted with dykes and channels wide enough for flat-bottomed boats to travel around.

We stuck to the roads and excellent cycle paths which abound. Salt-pans hold a plethora of wildlife – heron, egret, purple gallinule, crested grebe and many more – we even spotted a beaver sunning himself on the edge of one salt-pan. Salt used to be the main industry and after dying out it is now enjoying a revival, thanks to the tourist industry.

The 3 islands differ in size and geography. Ile de Noirmoutier is typically 'Vendee'. We started in the car park of the main town, Noirmoutier, for 3 days – cycling around the north of the island following marked routes, mainly traffic-free; then moving south to explore the causeway which is cobbled and only accessible for a few hours at each low tide. Needless to say, we left as we arrived, via the bridge!

Ile de Re, probably the best known to the British, is reached from La Rochelle via a 3 km bridge (which we, of course, had to cycle over and back). First stop was the northern tip of the island, where we cycled out to the lighthouse and climbed to the top. Then St Martins  (the main town of the island from where, reputedly, Papillon was sent by boat to Devil's Island). Here we walked the extensive ramparts before moving south to our favourite Aire of this part of the trip at Rivedoux Plage, overlooking the ocean where, at low tide, the vans (even a large lorry) trundled across the sand to tend the oysters which are extensively farmed there. From here we cycled across the 3 km bridge to the mainland and back before moving on to the next island:

Ile d'Oleron is the second largest island of France (after Corsica) and very untouristy. We stopped in the municipal Aire at the Chateau (including electricity) and visited the daily fish market, then moved round the coast to the municipal campsite before heading north, then driving back down to what we consider the highlight of the trip – the fishing port of La Cotiniere - where we watched fish being unloaded and bought at the 'self-service' fish market. Donning plastic gloves we popped our chosen fish into a bag and took it to be weighed and paid for. Excellent. (Tasted good too). Unfortunately, the published Aire was closed so we moved inland to the E LeClerc store car park which displayed a welcome to overnight campers, joined by a dozen or so other vans. At least we got fresh croissants for breakfast as well as a free night halt.

Overall, it was an excellent way to spend a couple of weeks and a good 'stand-alone' holiday from the UK. Plus of course, the fish. Now … where to start. We feasted on langoustine and sardines, mussels and red mullet. If you enjoy oysters, this is the place to be – oyster farming on a giant scale – all sustainable as far as we could make out and pretty 'natural' out on the sands, where even lorries went to and fro at low tide. We even harvested our own supper (mussels stranded on the tide-line).

After two weeks of cycling and sightseeing it was time to move on – southwards - for an overnight stop on the French/Spanish border at St Jean de Luz.

NORTHERN SPAIN 

Steady driving along the northern Spanish coast (we had explored this area including the Picos de Europa fairly thoroughly a few years ago) brought us to Santiago di Compostella – a mecca for pilgrims. The 'Camino di Santiago' is probably one of the best-known, best-travelled routes – 500 miles with regular free overnight places along the route. We did join the throng for the last 200 metres! It's a bustling city but the highlight for us was the bustling market – a series of old buildings, surrounded by local traders selling their produce – excellent value and VERY fresh. We also enjoyed a 'menu di dia' of fish soup followed by grilled fish, then chocolate mousse and washed down with wine for €8 each. Our first meal out. Lovely. Not so the campsite, which was expensive, seedy, unwelcoming and, unfortunately, the only one in town.

We then drove along the 'Cote di Morte' (literally translated as 'the coast of death' due to the frequent shipwrecks on the wild and windy coastline) to Finesterre. You may remember Finestere as Scottish and part of the shipping bulletin on BBC Radio 4, until the name was changed to avoid confusion. However, the Spanish Finesterre (literally translated as 'the end of the land') was believed to be the end of the world. Also Noah is reputed to have landed his Ark nearby. We didn't fall off and we didn't see any strange animals. However, we did have a lovely night-halt overlooking the wild Atlantic Ocean. The scenery was stunning and the coast had a plethora of lighthouses (still necessary it seems – as recently as 2002 a large tanker was shipwrecked along this 'Cote di Morte').

PORTUGAL

Next we travelled southwards, entering Portugal via the ferry at Caminha and using the 'Autovia' (free motorway). Sadly it is no longer 'free' – huge electronic gantries looked down on us at regular intervals filming us (in particular our licence plate) and signs informed us of the cost at each one. When we arrived at the campsite south of Porto the receptionist told us to go the nearest 'Pay Shop' and settle the account. This we tried, but to no avail – no record of our licence plate. We were advised to go to a main Post Office which we did while in Porto. Same thing happened, no record. At this stage we decided to leave it until we received an account!  Still waiting!

Back to the travelogue … what a joy Porto is. It's our second visit and we decided to 'fill in the gaps'. Last time we visited a Port Lodge and explored the town. This time we took a river trip (excellent value at €10), rode up the hill on the funicular and strolled across the top level of the suspension bridge, as well as meandering around the alleyways and narrow streets winding up from the river. Then it was time once more to head south.

We had intended to return to Praia di Mira for a relaxing week by the sea. This is a charming little village but unfortunately the campsite was closed, as was the next one on our list at Alveira, so we continued south to Figueira da Foz for our rest-stop – time to wash the clothes, clean the van and draw breath.

Now for the touristy section – and very enjoyable it was too. Amazingly good in fact!

First stop, the enormous Roman archaeological site at Conimbriga (which is in fact only 15% uncovered – and this 15% took us 2½ hrs to walk round!)  Adding on the interesting museum (included in the entrance ticket to the site) it seemed a good idea to stop overnight in the car park, which appeared (and indeed proved to be) safe and secluded.

Then onto Fatima, one of the most important Roman Catholic pilgrimages (we should get good weather on this trip, the number of pilgrimages we are joining), although this  shrine, surrounded by dozens of enormous car parks, failed to provide any ambiance or spiritual feelings whatsoever. We did see 3 pilgrims approaching the shrine on their knees – apparently the 'accepted' method!  At least there was fresh water on tap in the car park.

Our third stop on this tourist route was a visit to deep caves at Mire de Aire – over 15 km although only 600m is open. Our guide led us down 683 steps (there was a lift back up) and it was excellent, except for the tacky fountain show at the end.

Oh, and thanks to our Rough Guide book, en route between Fatima and Mire de Aire we found Pegados dos Dinossaurios: the best, most complete dinosaur footprints in the world!  Walking deep down into a quarry, we were amazed. There really were dinosaur prints from when they had stomped across, so many (millions?) of years ago. Wow, and wow again!

Our final 'stopover' on the tourist route was the walled city of Obidos where we found an official Camperstop – €6 for the night and services. We expected a 'tourist trap' and it was, but, off-season and fairly early in the morning before all the tour buses arrived, it was delightful. We walked right round the ramparts (probably a couple of kilometres) and strolled along the narrow streets until dusk.

At the end of these exhausting touristy few days we hopped onto the 'Autopista' and paid handsomely to drive south past Lisbon (which we had visited extensively on our last trip through Portugal) to the Algarve.

Now, on our last trip we weren't very impressed with the Algarve. When we did get near the seafront it seemed to be over-developed and all we really enjoyed was Cap St Vincent, which has excellent cycling and is very interesting. Still, we decided to give it another try.

We headed for Quarteira, midway between Faro and Albufeira, purely because the campsite was recommended. What a delightful spot! We actually stayed for 12 days (awaiting mail and then just staying on, when the mail arrived) and our routine rarely varied – cycle into Quarteira, either to the excellent fish market or other shopping, through to Vilamoura to admire the affluence of the enormous Marina and then back for lunch and a stroll along the beach in the afternoon. Martin spent his birthday here and we enjoyed a gorgeous grilled fish platter in a local restaurant.

We did make two excursions however – both using the local bus service. Firstly to Faro, which was not very interesting apart from a Chapel lined with the bones and skulls of monks dug up from the enclosed cemetery!  Once again, thank you Rough Guide for quirky items. Secondly we headed for Albufeira, feeling that we should at least see for ourselves what it was like. We didn't stay long: Albufeira didn't even have any bones to hold our interest.

Time to leave Portugal. Our final stop was just along the coast where octopus pots were lowered from the jetty. The octopus shelter in them and once pulled up they are enticed out with salt or some other eye-stinging non-toxic substance (once again, a Rough Guide recommendation). Unfortunately, it was low tide and all the pots were on shore and empty.

SOUTHERN SPAIN

On recommendation from a fellow traveller, we headed for Isla Cristina (in pouring rain). The conditions did nothing to enhance the entrance to a site built on sand and nestling in pine trees. The two campers that were bogged down as they queued up to book in decided us – we drove on by. A quick cup of tea and a rethink.

The same chum had also recommended El Rocio as a pretty quirky sort of place with a good campsite, so off we headed for the Donana National Park. What a little gem. The rain bounced off the compacted sand and we parked the van and walked into town. Built on the American grid system, this quite extensive town has no tarmacadam whatsoever – just sand. Sand everywhere but, as mentioned above, compacted and manageable. The sidewalks were all separated from the roads with hitching posts. You've guessed it: the main form of transport (after 4WDs of course) remains horses. Talk about the old wild west. There is much talk of 'the brotherhood' and this seems to be either linked to or similar to our Freemasons. These 'Romeria del Rocio' parade in their finery on Sundays, flocking to the church (which has an enormous, ornate, gold altar). At Pentecost there is a pilgrimage/fair attracting half a million pilgrims.

From here we cycled as far into the Donana National Park as we could and found the renowned hunting lodge built in the late 1950s in the style of the White House in Washington by a very wealthy landowner who, apparently, wanted somewhere secluded to hold his meetings of the brotherhood. Built in 2 years (bear in mind there were NO roads within 20 km in any direction) this magnificent building now houses a museum of the culture and history of the Romeria. We also spotted a plethora of birds – marsh harriers, red-crested pochard, purple gallinule and many, many storks all sitting patiently on their nests atop pylons etc, high in the sky above us.

Yes, an excellent stopover and once again our stay got extended. Now it is time to move onto Cadiz and continue our meander around the Iberian peninsula.

Yes, an excellent stopover and once again our stay got extended. But it was time to move on to Cadiz and continue our meander around the Iberian peninsula. Heading for Cadiz, we stayed just across the bay in El Puerto de Santa Maria. From there we took our bikes on the catamaran and spent a day exploring the town, which didn't take long to circuit! Amazingly compact. But the rain continued to fall and we were getting a little fed up with looking at the sunny weather forecasts further round the coast on the Costa Calida.

So we continued round the coast to Capo Trafalgar, off which Nelson “met his end” and was bundled into a barrel of brandy to preserve him on the long voyage back home. The rain was replaced by such a wind that we had a real struggle battling against it to make it to the headland, and were very glad to return to our little haven on wheels for a welcome cup of tea.

Then, after visiting the Roman remains at Baelo Claudia and watching the wind-surfers at Tarifa, we bade farewell to this windy and wet coastline and headed north-eastwards for the Costa Calida, our intended destination for the Festive Season, avoiding the heavily developed Costa del Sol. The Rough Guide puts this more succinctly: “if you've come to Spain to be in Spain, put on the shades and keep going”.

En route to the Mar Menor we were able to call on Bob and Sandra, met through Margaret and Barry of magbaztravels, who have an idyllic cottage nestling into the countryside of Murcia with spectacular views in all directions. What a place to sit and think … in fact, what a place to just sit. However, they are travellers and have now departed for a year in Australia. Mmm, should have asked them if they required a “house-sitter”. Another missed opportunity!

Then we reached the Mar Menor in time to settle down for a couple of months and relax (and of course benefit from the discounted price for a stay of over 60 days!). I think this is our favourite stopping place in Spain – it suits us with the excellent cycling and walking, nothing too taxing, and accessibility to shops and a bodega (filling our carafe with local wine for €1.20 a litre). Oh, and a campsite restaurant which provides a varied menu of fresh fish and meat dishes at a reasonable price.

We cycled a total of 500 km – round the Mar Menor, up into the hills and exploring the huge Natural Park just opposite the campsite. Lots of walking too, the highlight being a scramble up to the top of the highest “peak” (320 m) where we enjoyed superb 360 degree views.

So, a quiet Christmas followed by varied weather through January and we were once again refreshed and ready to move on. Pals of ours, Keith and Jean, were spending a month just north of Alicante and we decided to call in on them, then explore either or both of Benicassim and Peniscola, both of which had been recommended as good areas for cycling/walking.

(to be continued)