We actually stumbled through Fremantle the first time as our maps were still packed away and finally ended up some 20 kilometres south at an attractive beach side camp. This was our place of rest for a couple of days, partly to attend to stocking and equipping the van, and partly because once again travel had given me a severe demoralising cough which seemed to be both bronchial and asthmatic. There were some bright spots, for example the nearby shop sold cheap fresh crabs that became a large though ephemeral part of our diet.

After our rest break at the start of the trip, we returned to Fremantle properly prepared. On this occasion we explored the ship wreck museum taking a particular interest in the wreck of the Batavia as we were later to pass near the site. We also followed local tradition eating at an attractive seafood restaurant overlooking the fishing harbour. Then we toured the historical buildings of the town which reflected the hard work of the convicts, then the wealth from the gold finds of the 1890s. The city was very congenial with many outdoor cafes and restaurants. Finally we returned to our van by the efficient free inner city bus to head south.

From Fremantle for some two hundred kilometres, a long strip of sandy beaches offered locals a long commute to work or a retirement opportunity. As might be expected the real estate developments were as frequent as the beaches. Of course industry intervened briefly at Kwinana, but mostly we saw very attractive beaches, lakes and estuaries. We camped near one of the larger lakes at Mandurah with a camp site offering us views of the sun setting over the Indian Ocean in a splendour of colour.

Bussleton then provided a base for a couple of nights to explore the Margaret River district famed for fine wines and great surf beaches. It was an unusual experience for me as I had temporarily lost interest in such matters and merely drove Genny around as she experienced not only the above but the boutique breweries, cheese and even a chocolate factory. I dozed during these visits, at one stage feeling life was indeed very tenuous though perhaps without reason. On the next morning, we attempted the main tourist delight of Bussleton, a two kilometre jetty ending in an underwater observatory. Alas the weather had turned extreme, with rain and high seas reducing visibility, so the opportunity at the last minute to seek a refund was accepted. Indeed for the next few days this extreme weather caused us some distress.

From there it was tree hugging time. The high rainfall area in the South West produces some great eucalypts with towering Karris of 80 metres or so being included. Indeed, often such specimens lined the road like a formidable avenue. At Pemberton, we observed the forests from a steam train ride. Well presented with the opportunity to enter the driver's compartment and ask questions, moreover with advance booking it is possible to spend a day learning to drive the huge locomotive.

Further south, we experienced the forest from tree top height on a slender walkway that meandered 40 metres above ground through a valley of giant Tingle eucalypts. My attitude to heights had me clinging to the rails for the whole journey, though Genny benefited more from the opportunity to get up close with these forest giants.

The original WA settlement of Albany was our next destination where the rugged coast line included a natural arch formation formed in gneiss rocks which matched those in Antarctica from which the land mass of Australia recently (in geological terms) departed. On a cold blustery day the connection was credible.

Our night in Albany, as was common at camping grounds, resulted in some conversations with other travellers including back packers as well as grey nomads. From there a diversion to a Sandalwood factory delayed us before we scurried the 400 kilometres back to Perth finishing the first seven nights in our van.

Our first stop, after exiting Perth via a large supermarket then the Swan Valley, was New Norcia. A curious village/monastery initiated by Benedictine monks in 1846 to civilise the aboriginals, which continued as a school, orphanage, farm and now tourist attraction and convention centre. On TV it always looked a bit more romantic than we found it – a tired collection of now irrelevant buildings. However the museum and gallery possessed some interest. Gen was bemused that the tough treatment afforded the 'stolen generation' seemed very similar to life in her boarding school.

From there we drove on to Cervantes through increasingly dry country where the one bright note was the flowering Orange Banksia. Indeed it was amazing even this close to Perth the emptiness of the countryside. Most of the farmland was bare, either grazed by bony sheep or awaiting more rain for wheat planting. Not at its best until the winter rains start in earnest.

The next morning we passed some emus as we drove to the Pinnacles. These certainly amused as we wandered amongst these strange residual limestone columns. A leisurely drive took us to Dongara seaside resort where rested for most of the afternoon finding the air and sea still cool, while the beaches were still bedecked with weed from the recent storm.

The large city of Geraldton offered a small return to civilisation though as usual the lobster factory tour was not feasible because of time, though we were able to buy one of the beasts and good it was too. As a return to the bad habits of Europe we actually visited a cathedral designed by a famous local architect (John Hawes) though we were not over-impressed.

The tyranny of distance again prevailed as we drove on to Kalbarri, the location of a rugged coastline, a pretty estuary and inland an attractive gorge rather like a mini grand canyon. I managed to stroll to some of the attractions though still troubled by a heavy cough I left a couple of excursions to Genny.

Again the afternoon was spent returning to the highway then ploughing on over featureless straight roads before leaving the same highway again to divert to the next attraction. Indeed at the end of the second week we had driven 3,000 kilometres to be only 900 kilometres north of Perth. Of course 1,000 or so was spent on the South West, but the remainder indicated the lengthy diversions needed.

This at least was well worth it, and our stay at the Monkey Mia resort provided a highlight so far. The afternoon involved a catamaran cruise of the bay where we spotted several friendly pods of dolphins and finally after much searching a much shier dugong. As always it seemed good to be sailing rather than chugging around and this cruise made the most of the opportunities.

After a troubled night, where coughing once totally robbed me of breath, on the morning we awoke to rain in a region where only 150mm falls a year. It soon passed and we were down to see the dolphins including a baby only a week old being fed at the beach; although the interaction is now more limited, it was still quite a performance.