Dr Bob in Australia 2011 Part One

February to May 2011

Continued from Dr Bob & Sandra Transit Singapore 2011

Continued at Dr Bob in Australia Part Two (July Onwards)

See all of Dr Bob and Sandra's previous journeys at: The Dr Bob Collection

Following two previous major Australian journeys in their Land Rover Discovery and caravan, this intrepid couple return to Perth in Western Australia for another year. The vast Continent lies before them, as do 12 action-packed months out on the road.

Where will they be at the end of that time? How will they get there? What will happen on the way? Read on! 

This is Dr Bob's travel log:

16 February 2011 - Near Dandaragan, Western Australia
We arrived in Perth safe and sound at 14.17 local time after 2 frenetic weeks in Singapore. The 4 ½ hour flight in a smallish jet (not a wide-bodied) was a bit bumpy at times but food and films excellent. German guy in front of me a bit of an a******e but then there's always one.

John and Judy were waiting for us and soon had us at a Woolworths for an A$200 shop, with A$500 cashback which saved us going to a cashpoint. My word, has the food gone up in price or what? UK and Spain are really cheap by comparison! Then it was back to the farm, where Pegasus and Old Bluey (the 4x4 and caravan) were waiting for us, already drawn up on the front lawn. So we offloaded the groceries and stowed them away, at the same time checking the various cupboards. Amazing what we had left behind in the 'van.

Yesterday we cleaned through completely and unpacked both suitcases, backpacks and carry-bags. Everything fits in. The caravan and 4x4 are great, much better than when we left them for 6 months in a Queensland Caravan Park Storage Area. Pegasus had a few rust spots on the bonnet, only surface spots and easily polished out, but then he is 14 years old after all. Unfortunately the battery has finally given up the ghost and just won't hold charge. John is very much the multiskilled rural Australian; he even renovates cars and builds radio-controlled aircraft - extremely talented, believe me. We have to visit friends in Perth so we shall get a replacement there next Monday.

We have rejoined RACQ, so if we break down then we can call for a start. The caravan has been a little more problematic. Learning from Morris, another Australian traveller and friend, before storage I had removed the 'sacrificer' from the hot water boiler (the one Morris fitted at Carnavon). Unfortunately the screw-in channel had corroded badly and without John the 'sacrificer' wouldn't have been re-installed. It took forever and the sacrificer still isn't screwed all the way in, but at least it is in and there is no leak to date. The water heater works just fine. Yet to try the generator, as have no unleaded petrol. The O ring at one of the gas bottles had perished so there was a leak. John identified the problem and we shall purchase another 0 ring when we go into Perth.

So that's it for now. Although we have a year to go here in Oz, we think we shall be storing on a fellow traveller's farm near Rockhampton. Unlike this time, however, we shall be parking out in the open (here we have had both vehicles under cover for the entire time) and we wondered about acquiring a caravan cover. We have started making enquiries already.

To stay in touch we are getting a SIM card on Monday and hopefully PAYG mobile broadband.

18 February 2011
Finally purchased a new battery in a small town 70 km away. Judy let us borrow one of their vehicles. Now here's the amazing thing! At Perth's Battery World it would cost A$170-280, in this little bush town: A$135. Seemed really strange. Our Honda 2Kw Silent Suitcase generator started second time! With the caravan and 4x4 connected, we found corrosion again at the towing plug so the rear lights on the caravan were misbehaving - but easily remedied.

Have been without power here for the last 2 days following a horrendous thunderstorm. It finally came back on this morning, Friday 18th, after almost 72 hrs. Luckily John and Judy have their caravan's generator, just like ours, or all their fridge contents would have gone. We switched to gas. Still they are able to claim A$80 for every 12 hours without power, so Judy is just phoning for the forms.

We're now going to Perth on Sunday at the suggestion of the inestimable Ruby and Bill and then hopefully to attend a 'Concert in King's Park' on Sunday evening. We say hopefully, as the weather forecast is mixed. Then a phone call to Robyn and Tony and we are to call in to them one evening before driving back to Dandaragan. These were the couple who offered their drive and hospitality our first time around. Again, wonderful people who we shall be delighted to see again.

19 February 2011
Have just returned from a tour of the local 'Mineral Sands Mine' where John works as the Supervisor to the above-ground operations. Fascinating, and more of this later. We were given superb driving gloves, fluorescent vests, several packets of ear plugs and tinted safety glasses - and all to keep at the end of the tour. Moon-H&S showed us the Concentrator where the Titanium Dioxide is obtained from the dredging. Ti02 is the main product but one of the side-products, activated charcoal, is in fact their biggest profit maker. I leave it to you to work out how Moon got his nickname!

Anyway we have subsequently phoned the 'Scrapper' where we purchased the 'Roo-bars' on the Disco, as he has one that he actually purchased from John who now runs a Toyota. Always return a kindness if you can!

Tomorrow we leave for Perth and more Australian friends.

8 March, 2011
Well, we're still in Bunbury and parked on the drive of our friend Craig (son of Ron & Jean who have been trapped by the floods in their bus at Casino, NSW since last October). Craig works at Kalgoorlie (Gold Mine) on a FIFO - 2 weeks there and 1 week at home, where he is extending and refurbishing his parents' house which he purchased from them when they retired and took to the road.

He is a super bloke and we have had so many kindnesses. All we have been able to do in return is keep him company, mow the lawn and tidy the garden generally. He is more than occupied on the house internally.

A bit of an unfortunate event occurred when we were wild-camping by the inlet here in Bunbury, just before we moved to Craig's. About 11pm and some bloke tries to break in to the front boot of the caravan and then, when he finds it locked, tries to remove the gas bottles. While Sandra rang the Police I went out, suitably armed, and drove him off. Actually we both formed the opinion he was either 'not the full shilling' or high on drugs. He returned to his 4x4 and promptly sanded it down. Calmly he gets out, engages the hubs and then drives past me with all his lights on, so I am able to relay the Rego to the Police who are still on the line. Half an hour later 2 charming Police Officers turned up and we are dropping off the 'thank you' letter to the Police station later today.

The 2 nights after that we stayed at Turkey Point and The Cut (the channel from the lagoon to the sea), which was absolutely blissful. Bunbury is renowned for its 100-200 Bottlenosed Dolphins and, whilst you can take extremely expensive boat trips to see them (it even costs A$10 pp just to visit the Interpretation Centre), at The Cut you see them frolicking around right in front of you. Actually later today we hope to take a boat trip with Craig and one of his friends and will be 'up close and personal' with the dolphins, even going in swimming with them if we wish. We'll also be fishing for blue Swimmer Crabs which make an excellent meal. We prefer Sweet Chilli Crab, as both Salt and Pepper and Singapore Crab are more complicated and time consuming. Not that Sandra can't manage, you understand.

Once at Craig's and unhitched we were able to go off and enjoy such delights as the 'Mangrove Boardwalk' and 'The Swamp',  both teeming with wildlife - mainly birds. Also being Labour Day weekend last weekend we visited the beach and the inlet to watch the Dragon-Boat Races (bit like watching paint drying) and the Horse Swim. We also visited the Lighthouse, although there is no access or even parking. The Main Town Beach had 48 hrs of Friz-Bee competitions - Yawn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Also on Sunday was 'Clean Up Australia Day' and we participated, even though we litter-pick at the free sites we stay on as we travel round.

The gas leak at one of the cylinders actually turned out to be hose and 0-ring and both have now been replaced. We have purchased a spare Regulator and are in the process of replacing the struts to the front boot of the caravan. The friend of Craig's with the boat also owns a garage and the Disco is now booked in for next Tuesday for a replacement Timing Belt. At A$500 it works out the same as we paid in Spain when we had the belt replaced on the Motorhome. Tony couldn't do it any earlier, due to Labour Day week-end and staff illness and absences. Given that last time here we were quoted A$1200 at Geraldton, we feel this is a good deal and it means that the job will be done before the tow across the Nullarbor: added peace of mind. Previously we were intending to have it done at Lincoln Land Rover at Port Lincoln, SA as Peter, the owner, did us a huge favour last trip round. We were there for the Great White Shark Cage Dive.

So that's it for now - we are off to the Police Station, Bank and then Coles Supermarket for shopping, all just a 10min drive away. Looking at the weather and now with the car trouble, we think it was for the best that we didn't go north.

12 March 2011
Just chilling in 30C weather on Craig's drive but with full access to his house and shed even though he is away. Ozzies just make the best and most trusting friends.

All good with us and have just had a nice e mail of thanks from the Police in reply to the 'Nice Person Letter' we dropped in. Also had the Area Manager (Perth) of Dick Smith, on the phone in relation to a complaint we had tendered re. appalling Sunday service. It all balances out although he was grateful for the feedback.

Dr Bob in Oz - February 2011

Having completed the 'Singapore Story', it's time to start the Oz Diary which we shall split into monthly sections.

On Monday 14 February 2011 and 5½ hours after leaving Changi Airport, Singapore we commenced our descent into Perth Airport. An excellent flight on a Qantas Airbus with ample time for a good meal and 2 in-flight movies. Customs and baggage claim posed no difficulties, indeed the staff were infinitely friendlier than those we had met at Brisbane on our previous arrival in 2007. Once again our one-year supply of medication, including pain-killers, antibiotics etc, was declared on our Immigration Form and caused no concern. Medication in Oz is extremely expensive by both Spanish and UK standards, so we travel well equipped.

John & Judy were waiting for us and we were soon heading for the suburb of Midland, where we did a huge shop at Woolworths. Strangely, it was to be the last time we used Woolies for ages, finding that (just like Tesco in UK) Coles and IGA seemed to offer similar goods at more competitive prices and with a much wider breadth of 'offers'. All 3 supermarkets issue free pamphlets which detail their weekly or fortnightly range of offers. Oh, the £=1.5 A$: a huge difference to the A$2.5 we were getting per pound on our first Oz trip (The Big O) in 2006-7. Fuel also had increased markedly, with Diesel being between 147-154c/l between Perth and outlying districts and also depending whether you buy in the week or at week-ends. Never seen it anywhere else but in Oz they put the fuel prices up from Friday to Monday. To date no-one has been able to offer a satisfactory reason, though we have heard numerous explanations from Australians to Fuel Company Representatives to 'talking heads'.

So fuel and food prices are markedly more than UK, and markedly more than on our first and second trips more especially, but not definitively due to the weak £ sterling and the overvalued Australian $. Gratefully, as with the majority of long distance/long term travellers, we are able to manage our budget and this time have allocated A$80/day for the duration of our stay. Also worth mentioning is the fact that we have no known huge outlays, unlike the first journey, having pretty much everything we need. Also, we did finish 2010 in credit after our Motorhome Insurance Company paid up for the accident in Portugal, and of course this is carried forward. But then on the second journey in 2007-8 we lost the fan belt and AC belt at Murray Bridge, the latter taking the AC clutch - A$1800 we were not intending to spend in this way. So we wait and see and squirrel our nuts away against a rainy day!

With the huge shop completed, it was back to John & Judy's home, a farmstead just 2 km off the Brand Highway and 11 km short of Cataby Roadhouse. It's 160 km from homestead to Perth and 70 km from their home to their GP. Although their area is known as Dandaragan, this is in fact the Shire (County District), with the town of Dandaragan - the nearest shopping centre – 40 km away by car. Anyway we arrived to find the caravan and 4x4 already out of storage and parked on their front lawn. John is the above-ground foreman at the TiWest Mineral Sands Mine just north of Cataby and the cottage is part of his remuneration package. They pay for heating, lighting and telephone. The cottage is actually owned by the farmer on whose land the cottage now stands; previously it was the farmhouse of a separate farm now purchased by the adjoining property. All is well and John had even power-washed the 2 vehicles and checked both for faults: we are informed that the Discovery has a flat battery that won't hold charge - and that's the only bad news.

Over the course of the next 5 days we unload both vehicles as, quite simply, we can't remember everything that we have stored. I find we have had a mouse in the Discovery; it never managed to escape, as attested to by the tiny skeleton and numerous faeces. The battery is replaced from a tyre and battery store in Dandaragan and we discover that the number-plate light on the caravan is corroded and useless, and that one of the gas-hoses to one of the front-mounted 9 kg gas bottles has split. We replace the light from SuperCheap Auto in Perth (see below) and the gas hose in Bunbury (ditto). The week passes quickly, with evening meals spent with John & Judy including a meal out at the Cataby Roadhouse.

Saturday, a week after we arrived, saw the first excursion. John had arranged for us to visit the Mineral Sands Mine where he works and a fascinating tour it turned out to be. We were issued with helmets, safety goggles, ear plugs and florescent safety vests (the latter 3 items, as well as leather driving gloves, becoming ours to keep) and then John ferried us around the extensive site visiting in turn the 'Barge', the 'Dozer Trap' and then the main 'Concentrator'. For the latter stages of the tour we were handed over to the Site Supervisor, who showed us the Concentrator and the First Aid and Drug/Alcohol Testing facilities.

If you go onto www.tiwest.com.au you will get further details of the mine site, which produces as its main product Titanium Dioxide and as a main by-product Activated Charcoal.  We feel sure that John told us that TiWest annually open the plant to the general public for a picnic and site tours. If interested please contact either TiWest or myself and I will make further enquiries of J&J.

Imagine if you will a vertical cross section of the earth! At the top you have the soil and then immediately below this an incredibly thick black/charcoal layer - this is the 'Mineral Sand'. Depending on the depth at which the MS appears there are two methodologies:

1) If surface, then earth-movers remove the soil over-burden and then a Mobile Concentrator is brought to the site which is connected to a large volume water supply. Dozers work 24-hr days, 365 days per year, to push the Mineral Sand into the top of the Concentrator, where vertical spools (like hollow springs) full of the slurry separate the ore by centrifugal force. The TiO2 slurry is then pumped to a storage area, where it is loaded onto 36.5m long road-trains and transported to the refinery just outside Perth for further enhancement before going to the port for export.

2) Once the surface workings are exhausted, or below a certain depth, the area is flooded to create an artificial lake. Now instead of the 'Dozer-Trap' we have a Floating Concentrator attached by a water line to a dredge, which can work at up to 20m depth of water. The 'Mineral Sand' plus water as a slurry is fed to the Floating Concentrator, and from there the sequence is as above.

Anyway we spent a fascinating morning at the mine and then back to the farmstead to pack for our 3 day trip to Perth the following day. Our time in Oz to date and the 4-6 weeks to follow underscore the enormous difference between touring in UK/Europe (note the difference) and Australia. By the time we finished our first year touring in Oz we had more friends and contacts in Oz than anywhere in the world. Hence the free two and a half years at Dandaragan - see Oz the second trip for details.

Similarly the trip to Perth to visit Bill & Ruby was the result of an initial introduction by MagBaz in 2006. Bill & Ruby live in Wembley, Perth and are both in their 70's and incredibly active in both mind and body; in fact they often tire us out. We left for Perth at lunchtime Sunday and that evening joined Bill & Ruby at 'A Concert in the Park'. Perth is just resplendent in free outdoor activities and has the infrastructure to support a multi-cultural population. There are parks, walks and free BBQ's everywhere and this free concert was at a park situated between the University and the river. Not exactly a 'first-line' group - and the mosquitoes were atrocious - but the picnic and company were excellent. The following evening it was a BBQ at the beach - and remember there are countless beaches, all with BBQ and other facilities Free Of Charge. The final evening it was our turn to reciprocate by taking them to a Food Court in Wembley. BYO drink - and the meal was excellent.

In between, of course, we were able to do all our necessary shopping, including visiting Medicare in Subiaco to have our reciprocal access to Australian Healthcare ratified and our numbers issued. The cards follow in about 3 weeks but really only the number is necessary.

All too soon it was time to climb back into the Discovery and drive the 160 km back to Cataby and John & Judy.
We had intended to spend a few days helping J&J around the home but there was a sudden change of plans and less than 24 hours later we were all packed up and on our way to meet a new contact at Two Rocks, a coastal township on the outskirts of Perth. We hadn't met this friend of a friend or even visited this township before and sadly we were unimpressed by/with both. Still, you would be, when you turn up by arrangement and the person turns up an hour later and you are offered nothing more than tepid tap water to drink. Actually a long-time, long ago friend of our neighbour Chris in Spain, she turned out to be an arty-farty type and both Sandra and I formed the opinion that we had been invited in the hope that we would purchase something from their jewellery cottage industry. We left never to return and just chalked it up to experience.

Through Perth and the Coastal Highway via Mandurah and then the Old Coast Highway to the roadside shop/cafe of Arthur and Audrey Marshall - see Oz Journeys 1 & 2. Unfortunately only Arthur and staff were in residence and so, after a chat and a coffee, we left a note for Audrey and repaired to Whittaker's Mill free-site where we spent a restful week-end, being on our own as a couple for the first time in 2 weeks.

Then it was on to Bunbury and, we think, one of the most traveller-friendly towns on the coast south of Perth. Interestingly on the first Oz journey we had totally blanked Bunbury, feeling that such a beautiful town situated as it is right on the coast and inlet/lagoon would tend to dissuade those of a travelling nature who are intent on not being forced onto Caravan Parks. It was only on the second trip, after being befriended by Ron & Jean Edwards originally from Bunbury, that we visited them, parking on the front lawn of the home now owned by their son Craig. Ron & Jean and their retired bus – Hazelbus - were stranded in Casino, NSW, but we had an invitation from Craig to occupy our previous pitch, even though he was currently working at Kalgoorlie Goldmine and not due home until the beginning of February. Still this, and so much more, we must keep until 'March in Australia'.

Dr Bob in Oz - March 2011

A much busier month than February and an extremely enjoyable one, which saw us visiting Bunbury for an extended stay, then Harvey to stay with Audrey & Arthur, and finally cross-country to Albany; a route we hadn't done before.

Unfortunately the month started with a bit of a shock on the first night we arrived at Australind, just outside Bunbury; I'll explain. Driving from Arthur & Audrey's shop on the Old Coast Highway it is just 23 km to the outskirts of Bunbury. Rather than take the main highway straight in we detoured to the coast at Australind, at the more northerly aspect of Leschenault Inlet. Australind is really just an extension of Bunbury and the inlet here is just dotted with Black Swan, Pelicans, Egrets, all manner of Cormorants, White-faced Heron, etc. The entire bank of the inlet is dotted along its entire length with recreational areas with toilets, BBQ's, eating/picnic areas etc. We filled up with water and emptied our cassette toilet. This is also our favourite spot for fishing for Blue Swimmer Crab, which are absolutely delicious. You can even catch Puffer Fish to use as bait, although 'Spleen' is better, or even chicken legs.

As mentioned previously we had an open invitation to park on Craig's front lawn and in fact, as it turned out, he had forewarned his neighbours. However we felt a little hesitant about arriving in his absence and decided to wild-camp alongside Estuary Drive where, in fact, we had stayed on the previous Oz trip. It was gone 11 pm when I heard a 4x4 growl past and, on looking out, noted that it had pulled down to the area used for swimming horses. 'Snogglers' we thought, only to have this perception shattered a few minutes later when the caravan started shaking. Some blagger was trying to access the front boot on the caravan and then to remove the gas bottles on the front draw bar. No luck with either, as all are securely locked. Head torch on to leave hands free, armed with a paring knife in one hand and an axe in the other, out I go instructing Sandra to ring the Police. There in my headlight is this 6' string bean of an individual who, on challenging, calmly walks past Sandra in the caravan doorway and back to his 4x4.

As I watch, he gets in and promptly sands down. By this stage I am talking to the Police on the mobile phone and we are laughing at this turn of events. Out gets the guy and engages his hubs and then slowly drives past, enabling me to read out his number-plate to the Police Officer still on the line. 30 minutes later the Police turn up and come in for a chat and to take details. Suffice it to say that we were so impressed that we subsequently printed out a 'Nice-person letter' and delivered it to the Bunbury police Station. We received a charming email back from the Senior Officer, who forwarded our letter to the 2 Officers concerned.

After this bit of a disturbed night, the following day we went into Bunbury to do some shopping and visit Tourist Information. Now here is the strange thing: approaching the town we took a wrong turn which took us towards the docks. As we pulled over to make a U-turn a 4x4 pulls alongside and a women shouts “if you're looking for the dolphins, follow us”. We assured her that we weren't but filed the information away until later.

Into Bunbury for a very productive trip given that a) the town now has free Public Wi-Fi (so you can sit in your vehicle and log on to the Internet), and that b) there is a new Parking Space specifically for Caravans. We do love Bunbury, as shopping is just so easy and you can walk to most stores from the Caravan Parking area. Anyway the lady mentioned earlier had got us thinking, so having finished in town we headed back towards the Docks and then followed the road to Turkey Point and The Cut. Bunbury is famous for its wild but gregarious dolphins and there is a Dolphin Discovery Centre as you drive in to town. It's A$10 just to enter the Interpretation Centre and A$50-80 to take a sight-seeing boat out to The Cut. Drive out to The Cut and it costs you nothing, yet there are the pods moving backwards and forwards in plain sight. Nothing like as good as at Whyalla, SA, but there they are. Go swimming from the tiny beach just to the town side of The Cut and it is not unusual to have dolphin swimming up to you to investigate. Later during our stay Tony, a friend of Craig's, took us out in his boat with the intention of swimming with the dolphins but the sea was just too choppy, so we ended up just crabbing; and what a feast we ended up with.

Anyway, I digress! In finding Turkey Point we also found an idyllic wild-camping spot and there we stayed for the next 2 days until Craig arrived home from his 2 weeks at Kalgoorlie Goldmine. Craig is FIFO (fly in fly out) and is on a 2-week-in 1-week-out rota at A$500/day, whether he's there or not. Pretty cool! He was back at the end of the week, so on the day of his arrival we drove to his home, reversed up his drive and waited to be plugged in to his electric. We could even log on to his Wi-Fi! The bonus of having friends in Oz. And all we could do by way of thanks was to mow his lawn on 2 occasions. What a chum.

Through Craig we met Tony and enjoyed the boat-trip and crabbing. Tony also owns a garage, as well as other businesses, and was to replace the Timing Belt. We had to wait until after Labour Day week-end, due to him being fully booked, and then had a huge and welcome surprise when the Discovery was returned 30 minutes later, it having been determined that it had a Timing Chain and not a Timing Belt. So what the Land Rover Garage in Geraldton was doing quoting me A$1200 for this work I shudder to think. Another friend made.

So, what about Bunbury? Europeans first discovered the area in 1803 on a voyage led by Captain de Freycinet. However the region wasn't fully explored until 1830, when Governor James Stirling's expedition navigated the Collie River before establishing a camp called Port Leschenault.

Expedition members claimed large land grants and a military regiment was sent to protect the anticipated settlers. Bunbury's first settlers, the Scott family, did not arrive until 1838. Convict labour and the Donnybrook gold rush saw the small colonial outpost become a town. The Port of Bunbury developed into the southwest's main export hub, bringing further prosperity, and the town grew into the city it is today. www.visitbunbury.com.au

Having settled at Craig's we unhitched and were really able to explore the Bunbury area.

Highlights of Bunbury

Big Swamp Reserve - Excellent walk trails and viewing platforms that offer vantage points. A diverse range of wetland flora and fauna with more than 30 species of birds known to inhabit the area. All manner of ducks, including Australian Shelduck and Musk Duck (Australia's largest diving duck), Black Swan, Pelicans, Kingfishers, Royal and Straw-Necked Ibis, etc. A 'Not to be missed'.

The Mangrove Boardwalk - Around the town end of Leschenault Inlet. Here we saw an Australian Darter and 2 varieties of Kingfisher, Collared and Sacred, as well as the usual cast of characters. This is the most southerly population of White Mangroves, some 25,000 years old. There is extensive signage and numerous lookouts.

Various Sculptures around town.

The Dolphin Discovery Centre - If you wish to pay the price, or The Cut and Turkey Point with a swim on the off-chance of a Dolphin experience. There are over 200 Common Bottlenose Dolphins in the Bunbury waters.

Crabbing for Blue Swimmer Crabs (Blue Manna Crabs) at Leschenault Inlet.

Walking the 3 rivers of the area and the surrounding forest trails.

Multiplex Cinema in town - Tuesday all tickets A$10.

The Various Beaches - Back Beach, Hungry Hollow Beach and Koombana Beach, all with picnic spots, BBQs and shaded areas.

The Lighthouse - the distinctive lighthouse had a humble beginning, as follows:

1841 a storm lantern on a wooden keg formed the Port's first beacon.
1870 a square wooden lighthouse was built on the site of the Marlstone Hill Lookout.
1903 the original lighthouse is replaced with a 9m steel structure.
1959 an additional 6m of height is added to the lighthouse.
1963 a flashing light is installed in the lighthouse.
1971 the lighthouse head is placed on a new structure at its current site. Its 27.43m were painted in its distinctive black and white chequered pattern for the first time. Unfortunately there is no access to the lighthouse, nor any nearby parking

Swimming, snorkelling, diving and fishing, as at so many Australian seaside towns.

In addition, whilst at Bunbury it was Labour Day week-end and all manner of activities were scheduled on Back Beach and Leschenault Inlet. The beach hosted a weekend long Frisbee competition, while we attended the Dragon Boat Races and Horse Swim on the Inlet itself. All good clean fun. There was also the 'Keep Australia Clean' 3 hours Sunday organised garbage/rubbish collection at designated sites.

All too soon it was time for Craig to drive back to Perth for his flight back to Kalgoorlie. We stayed an extra 3 days hoping that our replacement camera battery would arrive and then, re-hitching the caravan, drove the 40 km back to Harvey to park on the old cricket ground behind Arthur & Audrey's home. We have reported on Harvey before and, although we stayed a week, normally you could manage all of interest within 2 days. However, Arthur was scheduled an angiogram as a day case in Perth and so we decided to stay around in case there was anything we could do by way of support. As it turned out the angiogram showed such advanced coronary atheroma that only by-pass surgery would have been practical. But then with Arthur being 90 and with only minimal symptoms, it's to be medication only.

Harvey is nestled on fertile irrigated plains beneath the rolling hills of the Darling Scarp, in the heart of dairy country. This thriving town has a unique Italian heritage and has developed a reputation for its orange juice, beef and increasingly its wine. Citrus orchards and viticulture flourish and Harvey's dairy farming provides the bulk of WA milk supply. There are Jarrah forests surrounding the town, which come alive with wildflowers during spring.

The Harvey Dam makes for a scenic picnic spot with BBQs, an amphitheatre, walking trails and playground. Unfortunately at the time of our visit it was nearly empty but trout and perch can be caught (permit required September-May). Harvey was home to well-known children's author May Gibbs, creator of Snugglepot and Cuddlepie, and the town features a replica of her 1880's home called Stirlings Cottage.

Our visit also coincided with the annual Harvey Stomp/ Harvey Harvest Festival which occurred on the Sunday. A rather mundane affair with numerous tacky stalls selling overpriced goods and fast-food. There was a musical trio, the 'Pretend Italians' – honestly, that was their name. The highlight was the 'Harvey Stomp' which saw teams of 2 people thrashing round in ½ wine barrels trying to extract juice from a standard weight of red grapes. Allegedly teams come from all over WA and even 'out of State' but we only saw 3 teams and the one comprising 2 Orientals 'won' the coveted prize - not sure what that was. Ho-Hum!

Really our visit was just to aid Audrey & Arthur and we did quite a lot around the house and garden, as well as ferrying supplies to the shop out on Old Coast Highway - fruit and veg, etc. Then there were problems with the 3 Emus kept at the shop and Sandra and I had to assist in Emu droving - not very successfully I'm afraid, as one of them legged it into the property next door and kept going.

The day after Arthur's hospital appointment it was time to leave to continue our journey. On the first trip (2006-7), we had gone south-east along the coast from Bunbury, and on the second trip (2007-8) across country from Hyden and Wave Rock. So this time we decided to cut across country to Albany taking in Donnybrook, Bridgetown, Manjimup, Rocky Gully, Mount Barker and Narrikup: 438 km.

The first evening we wild-camped at the western edge of Donnybrook at the Information Lay-by. This is also the collection point for locally grown pears and apples, with double-trailer road trains collecting each evening at 10 pm to ferry the loads into Perth. Here the fruit is sorted, bagged and distributed. We talked to the staff and were rewarded with free samples! Adjoining the site are acres of unfenced apple orchards and you are able to collect all the windfalls you desire.

And so through to Albany, which had so enthralled us at the time of our first trip, 2006-7. On that journey we had stayed at Cosy Corner West, a free-site some 33 km west of the town itself. No such luck on this occasion, as Cosy Corner West had been closed by the Shire and Cosy Corner East had been 'taken-over' by a large group of travellers occupying a motley rag-tag of vehicles and obviously well dug in, in spite of clearly displayed notices to the effect that there was a maximum allowable limit of 7 days. We have seen such congregations previously and, just like the 'gypos' in UK, by their sociopathic presence they spoil it for others and often leave the sites filthy when they are finally 'evicted'.

Our only recourse was to find a caravan site, settling at Panorama Caravan Site on Frenchman's Bay Road and with a superlative vista over the sea. We hate caravan sites, as they often turn out to be cliquey and noisy, and this one was no exception. On the first night we were disturbed by 8 Orientals arriving at 3.15 am and pitching their tent using car headlights for illumination, with a radio playing as well as loud conversation. The conversation continued after they had turned in. They were then caught by the 'temporary manager' as they attempted to sneak out at 6 am without paying. All was well for the next few nights until a middle-aged couple with a beautiful Labrador arrived and parked next to us with their trailer tent. The dog had never been on a site before and 'woofed' episodically throughout each and every night.

The couple were even worse with conversation from 6 am every morning. At least with free-sites, if you are disturbed then you are not being charged for the privilege. At Panorama, 16 km from town, we were paying A$30/night for a powered site! To compound this we were parked between site-cabins and the sea. After being asked for the nth time to move our 4x4 so as not to block views, I placed a notice on the windscreen to the effect that we were paying for this parking place and to ask the trailer tent to move!!

Anyway, what about Albany itself? The British Government ordered a settlement to be founded at King George III Sound, in part to prevent the French establishing a hold on the Australian continent but also because of growing dissatisfaction with the convict settlement at Port Macquarie in New South Wales. On 9 November 1826 the Brig Amity sailed from Sydney carrying a party under the command of Major Edmund Lockyer, who was ordered to form a settlement at King George Sound. The Brig reached Princess Royal Harbour on Xmas Day 1826 but no-one was put ashore until the following morning. Lockyer named the site Frederickstown, after HRH Duke of York and Albany, Frederick Augustus, second son of King George III. In 1831 the name was changed to Albany by Governor Stirling.

From 1834 new settlers began to develop agriculture and pastoral holdings. Over the decades, European settlement expanded into the hinterland. Albany evolved into a busy port servicing the goldfields and exporting timber and agricultural products.

Highlights of Albany

The Replica of the Brig Amity.

Whaleworld and the newly open Wildlife Park - We visited WhaleWorld in 2006/7 and were fulsome in our praises at that time. The last of Australia's Whaling Stations, with the whale-oil tanks converted to museums and cinemas to excellent effect. There is a whale-chaser on display and regular guided tours included in the entrance fee of A$25/adult. See www for further details. We were not there to revisit WhaleWorld but rather to visit the Wildlife Park that has been opened as an adjunct. It has a plethora of the smaller marsupials, together with the usual kangaroos, wallabies and wombats. Even though many of the animals present are nocturnal by nature, we, as the only visitors on that day, were obviously worth looking at and almost all the animals came out for a sniff. Particularly endearing were the 2 species of Wombat and indeed Sandra and I have a special affection for these, 'nature's bulldozers', heavy as lead and just packed with muscle. The females remain affectionate but the males change negatively at puberty, so nothing unusual there! The 2 koalas were human-friendly and we were able to hand feed using eucalyptus left for them. We were totally on our own and risked a quick stroke, even though they are renowned for biting, spitting, urinating and defecating to good effect when displeased. We also sat for ages in the kangaroo, wallaroo and wallaby enclosure and it was lovely to have them come over to be stroked, as they stood with their forearm resting in your lap. Well worth the A$10/adult, as we are suckers for wildlife.

The Blowholes, the Natural Bridge and the Gap, on the road to WhaleWorld - The Blowholes are naturally occurring fissures in the rock through which sea-water erupts, given a sufficient high tide, following sea and wind. Nil on the day we visited. Sadly a lad was drowned while rock-fishing here just days after we visited. This coast marks the juncture where the super-continent of Gondwana split to form Australia and Antarctica, with the rocks here identical to those found on the northern coast of Antarctica. The Natural Bridge is a rock arch formed by the 2 sides of a fissure moving apart but leaving a rocky bridge connecting them. The Gap is similar but in this case there is no arch. Eventually, at about 10 cm/year, the fissure of The Natural Bridge will increase in size and the Bridge tumble into the sea. The Gap will just become wider and wider forming an inlet.

Bird Park and Marron Farm - A cornucopia of human-friendly animals and birds, all craving the foodstuffs which are provided with the entry price. Charming and unassuming, it would raise a smile on anyone's lips. Very little involving the Marron themselves, other than a few specimens in tanks, and minimal signage. Still the birds and animals, including 2 extremely aloof dingoes, more than made up for the absence of a few crayfish. All exhibits were in excellent physical condition. As it was mid-week there were only 2 other visitors. A$10 pp. Delicious food is available and the menu can only be described as 'gourmet'.

Emu Point Boat Pens with the Bronze of Sam the Seal - Emu Point beaches and the story of the bronze and Sam himself (see www.samtheseal/Albany). Sad to relate, after numerous years of entertaining visitors Sam was stabbed to death by some sociopath who was never apprehended.

Desert Mounted Corps Memorial - Situated at Mount Clarence, it features a statue of an Australian mounted soldier assisting a New Zealand soldier whose horse has been wounded. The wall bears the words “Lest We Forget”. This is the ANZAC Light Horse Memorial to the Gallipoli Warriors. The base of the statue bears bullet marks from the Suez crisis in which it was damaged before being relocated to stand overlooking King George Sound, from where the convoys bearing the ANZAC troops departed for WWI.

The Princess Royal Fortress - This impressive Mount Adelaide site takes in the Albany Barracks; Princess Royal Battery; Military Heritage Centre; Australian War Memorial Gallery; Padre White National Memorial; HMAS Perth Interpretive Centre; First Dawn Service Display; and the Australian Light Horse Museum. A little pricey at A$19 (1 Senior and 1 Adult).

Dog Rock - We like stories, and here's one. The hound-head-shaped rock in Albany's CBD was said to have been created when some early settlers returned home to find a group of naked Aborigines surrounding their daughter and her dog Victor. The parents became justifiably alarmed and their fear passed to the dog, which attacked the group causing them to run off. As they did so, however, they loosed a volley of spears and the dog was killed. That night Victor was buried but in the morning his grave had disappeared, to be replaced by the immense Dog Rock standing as testimony to his devotion and bravery.

Birdwalk on Emu Point road - A good 3/4 hour walk, although much of it shaded. Few glimpses of the lake, poor signage and impoverished bird-life. Possibly better at other times of year. Unimpressive.

Op Shops (Charity shops) - We voted Albany joint first with Geraldton! On this visit Sandra managed 10 T-shirts at A$2/item (on sale). Outstanding!

There is also The Boardwalk, Old Jail Museum, Patrick Taylor Cottage, Residency Museum and Wind Farm, but these we didn't bother to find time for.

We stayed at Albany for a full 7 days and left knowing that it would remain on our list of places to return to in the future.