Following two previous major Australian journeys in their Land Rover Discovery and caravan, this intrepid couple return to Perth in Western Australia for another year. The vast Continent lies before them, as do 12 action-packed months out on the road.
Where will they be at the end of that time? How will they get there? What will happen on the way? Read on!
This is Dr Bob's travel log.
Dr Bob in Oz - June 2011
The month got off to a great start when we discovered that the new 5-Star off-road caravan next to us on the beach belonged to Cesar & Deborah, the owners of Walkabout Caravans of Melbourne. Initially a full-time businessman, due to staffing problems he closed the factory some years ago and now makes 6-7 'bespoke caravans' per year at his home. They range from the basic shell at A$25,000 up to A$140,000 for the all-singing, all-dancing model.
It was while talking to Debs that I was invited to ask for Cesar's help and so that afternoon it was into Whyalla for a new mixer tap and J-mould insert, which is a type of rubberised strip that is used to hide screws; a vanity strip if you will. The following day Cesar replaced our dripping/leaking sink tap, replaced the shrunken strip above the front storage boot and even fixed the window damaged when we towed part way across the Nullarbor without realising that it was open. In addition he is more than happy to effect the repairs necessitated by the impact with the kangaroo (he estimates 2 days) and will, at the same time, fit 2 solar panels to the caravan roof and an additional battery in the front caravan boot. So now we just have to concentrate on replacing the missing external refrigerator air vent and purchasing a new mudguard for fitting above the double wheels on the near-side of the caravan.
With the departure of Cesar & Debs for Broome, we vacated the beach and started our somewhat postponed journey west to Ceduna and the Wombat and Wildlife Rescue (see below). We hope to return to Whyalla when notified that sufficient Giant Australian Cuttlefish have arrived and to collect the refrigeration vent from Hancock's Refrigeration Centre. The TV aerial winder is coming from Watsons Caravans at Coff's Harbour, NSW.
Taking the coastal road as far as Cowell, it was then west towards Lock to meet up again with Trevor & Joy, whom we had met at Pildappa Rock some weeks previously. Now for the third time we were jinxed by Cowell. On the first trip, 2006/7, we were royally cheated by their tyre centre. We had a flat and when we removed the tyre noticed that steel was showing. Carrying 4 spares this was of no consequence but Star Garage assured us that an inner-tube would be totally acceptable.
They inserted the tube and then charged us A$75 for a A$12 tube. The new tube didn't even last until Port Augusta, when the steel of the tyre wall punctured the tube. We were so disgusted that we wrote to the Shire Council and had a positive and sympathetic reply, which intimated that the garage was known to be less than customer friendly.
On the next trip, 2007-8, as we pulled into Cowell and slowed at the boat ramp we heard a clicking emanating from one of the rear wheels. With known crooks at Cowell we travelled on to Port Lincoln, where we were treated sublimely by Peter the owner of Lincoln Land Rovers.
On this occasion, we were 18 km west of Cowell when we picked up a sharp piece of gravel and lost a rear tyre. No great problem but I couldn't release 2 of the wheel nuts. With no phone signal we needed to wave down a passing vehicle and give our details to the driver, such that he could phone the Rescue Service from Cowell. 3 hours later, up drives Wayne from Roudall and the job is rapidly completed. Unfortunately with no RACQ agent within a 20 km radius we needed to pay the additional mileage of A$44 but then, another lesson learned and we were mobile again.
Having phoned Trevor & Joy to inform them of our mishap we stopped overnight at Cleve, arriving at Lock the next day (Sunday). A genuine welcome and much information, chat and lunch before departing mid-afternoon for Elliston back on the coast. What a difference to all the towns on the Eyre Peninsula up to this point,all (apart from Ceduna) branding themselves as RV Friendly. Not so Elliston with its 2 caravan parks and representatives on the Shire Council. Signs everywhere stated that illegal parking within 10 km of the town would result in fines.
No problem there; we drove through buying nothing and stopped at Watson's Rocks 12 km up the main highway and 3 km of gravel road. Bit of a dump really and certainly nothing scenic about it. Signs indicated that it was A$6/vehicle/night and A$2pp/night but I guess being out of season it is not thought worth a Ranger's time. Just as well as we should have just moved on. As it was we rested for the week-end, as we didn't need to be in Ceduna until Wednesday of next week. Mice everywhere - but then there is a 'Mouse Plague' in SA at the moment due to damage to last year's grain crop which was then allowed to rot in the fields.
Back to Elliston, not stopping until we reached Streaky Bay, which is one of our favourite spots. I was in luck (of sorts) as the local tyre-shop had 2 new Bridgestones in my size and a nearly new tyre in a brand I didn't recognise. Put the latter on the roof-rack and the 2 new ones on the rear wheels. Not really happy with the handling, as it feels really light on the front.
Tried increasing inflation on the front tyres but only a minimal benefit. Will get the front and rears swapped over to put the Michelins on the back, which may give a better result. Then, as we tried to re-hitch the caravan, the jockey wheel malfunctioned and although we had it repaired we still went ahead and had a new spring-loaded jockey wheel welded to the drawbars. So much easier to use than its predecessor but no chance of fitting Stabilizing Bars now.
Finally into Ceduna and the Wombat Rescue and Wildlife Centre. There are 2 other volunteers beside us, an absolutely charming young French couple who are travelling in a whizz-bang - Julian aged 28 & Anara, 26 and originally from Kazakhstan. They met in Belgium. The work here is arduous and although we are only supposed to do 4-6 hrs /day we find we are working far more. Still, we are on electric (although paying A$50/mth) and have our food provided, cooked or uncooked. It's not a very well run or organised establishment and the wife is really on some super ego-trip. Don, the husband, seems AOK and actually works on the Inspection Station as you enter town from the Nullarbor. I think the biggest gripe we all have is the constant carping by the wife about money and how little they have. This in spite of the 6 houses they own, one farmstead, where Julian and I work some of the time (and negotiating for a second), and all sorts of freebies from all manner of organisations. But don't you find this is so often the case?
Anyway, the list of characters:
Adult Wombats - Bruce 5, Denetia 3 and Fibi 2. Unfortunately Bruce, who is a Common Wombat, is quite vicious, probably due to the spearing he received when younger at the hands of aborigines. You can't go in his cage and he tries to bite at every opportunity. The other 2 are Southern Hairy-Nosed Wombats and Denetia is more a family pet than anything else.
Baby Wombats - Horace 1 and Saul 6 months. These are bottle-fed 4 times a day. Both are Southern Hairy-Nosed and just so sweet. There are photos.
Adult Kangaroos - 1 Red Kangaroo, Zee-Zee aged 3. Not terribly socialised as compared with Fredo, a really small Grey aged 3, who is markedly undersized for his age and still has supplementary bottle feeding.
Infant Grey Kangaroos (Joeys) - Julian, Annabel and Charli, all about 6 months of age. They are also bottle fed 4 times a day with manual toileting afterwards. (You rub certain strategic areas and try and avoid the sprays!!). They are all just adorable and Charli is just like a matchstick toy. Sandra's favourite is little Julian, who lifts his front legs as if to say 'don't shoot'.
2 Tammar Wallabies which are so frenetic and scatty that we don't go anywhere near them.
2 Galahs
A Peregrine Falcon
A Possum
A Bearded Dragon
Sundry Tree Frogs
Blue Tongued Skink
and finally- A Budgie.
When we visited last time there were 7 Wombat Joeys but DOC instructed that all but 2 be removed, as it was felt that the Centre was understaffed to the detriment of the animals. We would concur with this opinion, if only from the point of hygiene which we are struggling to improve.
Anyway the Southern Right Whales have started to arrive in the Bight and there are 11 today, including the first calf to be born in SA. The numbers are published on a board outside the Visitors' Centre. Still no word from Fowler's Bay Eco tours but plenty of time yet and we shall currently work here until the end of July, when an Irish couple are due to arrive. Not sure currently when Anara & Julian are intending to leave, as by working here for 3 months they hope to extend their visas.
Malpractice at the Wombat Rescue in Ceduna
We left the Wombat Rescue in Ceduna after just one week. They didn't want volunteers, they wanted serfs. We ended up working on their rental properties and not the animals. Instead of 4-6 hrs/day it was up to 10 hours, with nothing but criticism and carping. It was all 'smoke and mirrors' and run as a purely profit making concern by 2 sociopathic users. We have already been in contact with statutary and non statutary bodies regarding exploitative and probably criminal activities.
Letters went to The Shire Council, the Local Hospital and the appropriate Government Body/ies regarding the malpractice/s that we witnessed.
It's just so sad that a centre should be run by liars and cheats. I think I mentioned that they had had several Wombats removed from their care? They are running it purely as a money-making attraction. Absolute scum. Suffice it to say that our planned 2 months stay culminated on day 7 when it became apparent that they were just 'sociopathic users' and wouldn't have recognised the truth if it stood up and bit them.
There will be consequences and we shall in due course be writing to Australian RSPCA, The CEO of Ceduna Hospital re removal of material, the Ceduna Mayor and Shire Council regarding illegal working practices at the Rescue, Australian Immigration re use /misuse/exploitation of volunteers and South Australian Wildlife, a Government Agency which supports this and other SA Rescues. Obviously we are disappointed at our lack of good judgement but then hopefully future fellow travellers will be treated in a fairer and more structured fashion.
Now on our way to see the Whales at Head of Bight, out of town and west to Head of Bight and the first fulfilled item on our original 'wish list'. We spent all day Whale Watching. From May-October Southern Right Whales visit the calm and sheltered waters of the Head of Bight to calve and nurture their young.
Present on the day were more than 20 adult whales, the majority with calves frolicking around them. Unfortunately only one mother and calf came close enough to facilitate some excellent photos - and those only with a 300 lens. Adults A$12pp and Seniors A$10pp. Hours 8am-5pm. We might have wished to purchase some souvenirs but quite frankly the prices were ludicrous. The drive from the highway to the gates is 2 km, with the Visitor Centre and cliffs a further 10 km on. They have now provided a fenced enclosure with shed just before the gates, so you can park well away from the highway and traffic noise. We didn't actually avail ourselves of this area and so have no idea of what facilities were available. At the Visitor Centre there are only toilets with micrometre thin toilet paper.
An overnight on a free-site out on the highway and then back towards Ceduna and Nundroo, where we phoned Fowlers Bay Ecotours. Obviously they have yet to get their act together as the 2 previous phone calls at a week apart rendered replies of: “probably 7-10days”. This time (Monday) we had: “possibly this weekend”. Unfortunately, with food running down and only one gas cylinder remaining, that was too nebulous and uncertain for us and so it was back to Ceduna, where we took on the minimum of necessary supplies and pushed on along the Eyre highway to Iron Knob where we turn towards Whyalla. We had the 4x4 serviced and can only hope that the job was done. We have previously mentioned the 'mercenary' nature of Ceduna which traps travellers travelling east-west and vice verse. A 9 kg gas cylinder, whether refill or exchange, is uniformly throughout the town A$35. In Iron Knob at the pub it's A$27 and at Mite 10 in Whyalla A$25. We opted to take our chances, as we can run on 12v if necessary and there are towns along the Eyre Highway where we would prefer to spend our money.
And so a mixed month of goods and ills. The Whales were a positive, as was meeting Julian & Anara, the other 2 volunteers at the Rescue. The animals were wonderful, which is more than can be said for the sociopaths that run the Rescue. We bought 2 new tyres and a third deemed illegal and a new jockey wheel for the caravan (which is so much more user friendly than its predecessor). The weather was very cold intermittently but has now started to warm up again. Lastly, the huge positive of all the genuine people that we met during this month. Cesar & Deborah, Maurice and of course our fellow volunteers. We also stopped and chatted (yarned) to so many fellow travellers who shared overnight rest areas with us, many of whom we wish in retrospect we had shared contact details with.
We are well and face July with optimism, from 75 km east of Ceduna on the Eyre Highway.
Dr Bob in Oz - July 2011So a slight change of format this month, as we have not covered many miles/kilometres, largely backtracking over highways and through towns covered in previous travelogues and on previous journeys. Starting in Ceduna, SA and finishing here today just outside Tennant Creek, NT we have covered only 2200 km with our only real new ground being Woomera in SA.
The month began with a flying visit to Julian and Anara at the Wombat and Wildlife Rescue in Ceduna. They had contacted us to say that the sociopathic owners were away and so we called in to say goodbye and wish them well on their continuing journey around Australia, and indeed with their hopes for future settlement in this amazing country. It was a sad moment, not only the 'goodbye' but because Horace, the 1-year-old Wombat Joey, had been taken ill that very weekend with severe pelvic and hip girdle pathology and was virtually immobilised and in severe pain. Naturally that hadn't stopped the 'caring' owners of the Rescue departing on a 10-day trip, leaving our friends to cope alone as best they could. They had even tried Paracetamol paediatric, but things were looking quite grim for little Horace. So I wrote an addendum to my letters of concern to the RSPCA and DENR (Department of the Environment and Natural Resources - who we later discovered had actually stripped the Rescue of the majority of the Wombat joeys that we had seen at the time of our first visit, such was their then concern).
Leaving Ceduna, it was a 450 km drive along the Eyre Highway calling through the towns we had visited only a matter of weeks before. However, at Iron Knob we turned to the coast at Whyalla in hopes of making arrangements to view the Giant Australian Cuttlefish at Point Lowly. To this end we phoned and texted the Company advertising 'glass-bottomed boats' but to no avail. Our calls invariably went through to voicemail and we never received a reply. The Visitor Centre was unable to help, referring us to the website which, we discovered, had yet to become operational. We eventually discovered that the owner has a full-time job and that this was just a start-up venture; so again it was like the Eco Tours at Fowlers Bay, where the husband is still working FIFO (fly-in, fly-out) on the mines and is yet still advertising. We waited a weekend and then departed, having sent strongly worded emails to both the Visitor Centre at Whyalla and also SA Tourism (in respect of both of the above, plus the Balloon Ride at Hawker).
Next stop was Port Augusta 70 km away, where we stocked up with provisions, took on fuel and water and headed north along the Stuart Highway to Woomera, Coober Pedy and Marla, then on through the SA/NT border to Alice Springs via the Henbury Meteorite Craters, Stuart's Well and Dinky the Dingo.
First stop on the highway at 173 km is Pimba Roadhouse where we stayed overnight on their free campsite with water and toilets. A miserable experience, as the wet weather had turned the entire area into a muddy morass and without mains power (and thus a fan heater) we were freezing. Additionally the servo was very busy overnight with constant disturbances.
The following morning we pulled out - or rather slid and spun out - and drove the 7 km to Woomera, where we attempted to check in at the Caravan Park. At 9.15 am it was virtually empty and yet we were told to leave the site and return after 10am.
The woman to whom Sandra spoke appeared to have been sucking lemons and was no friendlier when we returned at about 1 pm, having visited most of the town's points of interest. Gratefully her husband was a lot friendlier. The site was a dump and maybe she just didn't like being there - we certainly found it a hole. Again inches and inches of mud, and the shower/toilet block was an abomination. Still by 6 pm that evening it was virtually full and we realised too late that we were far too close to the banging metal toilet doors. In our defence we don't usually stay on sites and thus had given no thought to our on-site location when the husband guided us in. A lesson learned.
So what about Woomera?! As a town, Woomera was closed to the public until 1982. An uncharismatic barracks town, it sits at the south-eastern corner of the 500 km corridor known locally as 'the Range' and ominously highlighted on maps as WOOMERA PROHIBITED AREA. Don't expect of find out why at the Heritage Centre, where we could barely find someone to take our entrance fees for the various exhibits. Here there are models and numerous audiovisual displays emphasising Woomera's value as a satellite launch site and joint initiative with NASA, but the reasons for the creation of the Prohibited Area -Weapons Testing and the British-run Maralinga/Emu Junction Atomic Bomb tests between 1953 and 1963 - are skirted around. The displays centre on satellite development as well as various guided missiles. For a first-hand account, read Len Beadell's 'Outback Highways': cheerful tales of the bomb tests and the construction of 'some sort of rocket range - or something' by the chief engineer.
Currently, the Range seems to be only in use as a test site for the Japanese supersonic passenger airliner - a possible successor to Concord. Having said that, there are rumours of a nuclear waste dump to be considered, although certain areas of the Range have now been cleared for civilian mineral exploration and mining.
Admission fees to the Visitor Centre Woomera Rocket Range Museum is A$10 per adult with A$8.50 for Seniors. Also featured in the exhibition, but in a separate section, are memorabilia and souvenirs relating to Len Beadel, who was the founder of the Range in that he was the surveyor who decided that was where Woomera was to be situated. Len, as a surveyor, was responsible for over 8000 km of highway and many outback tracks including the Gunbarrel Highway and he is captured on audio-visual display. In addition he has a Memorial at the centre of the shopping square and his final resting place (and that of his wife) is marked by a Memorial in the old cemetery just outside town. So muddy was it on the day we visited that we needed to engage 4 Low on the Land Rover. Len has been called 'The Last of the True Australian Explorers' and was the author of several books.
To us Woomera seemed to be 'trading on past glories' and indeed many of the facilities are only present because they were a requirement when American families were housed at the test facilities. None of these appeared to be open and the supermarket shelves were mainly bare.
The only other point of interest, excluding the cemetery with its 3 separate areas and numerous children's graves, is the Missile Park with its numerous exhibits although scant signage. On offer were: Bofors Mk 12 anti-aircraft gun, Ikara-Australian developed ship-borne anti-submarine weapon, MK 10 Bomb, Skylark high altitude research rocket, Jindivik-pilotless aircraft developed by the Australians, Drogue-towed target, Meteor Mk 7 fighter aircraft used here as a pilotless target, Meteor NF 11 –used to test BlueSky missiles here in 1955, SeaSlug - a ship-borne surface to air anti-aircraft guided missile, Black Arrow - a 3 stage British rocket designed to carry a satellite into orbit, and finally a Canberra Bomber - these being employed both as a launch platform and also as a pilotless drone. A total of 17 Canberra bombers were converted to remote control by Short Brothers in N Ireland and flown to Australia. The Canberra on display was rebuilt after being retired from use as a target aircraft.
And that was the end of Woomera, but at least that night we were warm as toast as our fan heater mumbled away through the 'wee small hours'.
The following day it was up and north, passing both Island Lagoon and Lake Hart. When we visited in December 2006 these were just dry salt-pans. Today, with the heavy rains of the last two and a half years, they both have water and we were able to walk down to the shores of Lake Hart, which has become a stopping off place for many of the Outback tours. No birdlife was visible but perhaps the lake is just too salty. Our next overnight, some 125 km away, was the Caravan Park at Glendambo, and what an excellent site it turned out to be. This was the last Caravan Park noted on the map until Coober Pedy and so we decided to have one more evening of powered comfort. As it turned out we need not have worried, since the weather took a remarkable turn for the better as Winter seemed to turn overnight to Spring. Woomera had cost us A$25/night; here at Glendambo it was A$20.50 with pleasant, helpful staff. Glendambo came into existence in 1982 as a service centre on the new Stuart Highway to replace the township of Kingoonya, which was bypassed.
And on north to Coober Pedy - Opal Capital of the World - which again we visited in December 2006 and found extremely interesting. Apart from the Opal mining, the sole industry here is The Tourist Industry and there are almost half a dozen caravan parks. Gratefully, given the mild weather, we were able to park each night at 'The Giant Blower' freesite just as you enter town and indeed were never on our own. The town did not appear to be terribly busy and we noted that many businesses seemed to have been closed or been moth-balled. Apparently, the Opal price has dropped and now most mine owners derive income primarily from tourists paying to 'noodle' on their land. We now believe that the term noodling derives from the Opal fields in Queensland, where miners used to search for nodules containing opal. Hence noduling became noodling. We have never tried it and will reserve our efforts for the gemstones of Rubyvale in Queensland in a few months' time.
Numerous Tourist Companies work from Coober Pedy offering all manner of trips and expeditions. We noted a minimum 300% increase in prices from 2006 and were relieved that most of those on offer we had already done. In fact, apart from the Wright's Air Flight to Lake Eyre, we only availed ourselves of the self-guided tour 'Discover Old Coober Pedy' (available from the Visitor Centre), which guides you to:
1.The Old Cemetery 2.The Old Timers' Mine and Dugout 3.Old Water Tank and Water Reserve 4.Jeweller's Shop Opal Field - free noodling 5.Old Police Lockup, Old Dugout 6.Medical Services History 7.George Burford's Dugout 8.Coober Pedy's Churches - all underground 9.Underground Post Office and Old Dugouts on Post Office Hill 10.The Big Flat Opal Field 11.Coober Pedy Area School 12.The Blower (where we wild-camped) 13.John McDouall Stuart Monument 14.Will Hutchison Monument 15.The Giant Winch
There is signage at most of these sites.
NBThere is an excellent free campsite area behind and below No 14 although it's 13 km from town.
The first opal miners called the area the Stuart Range Opal Fields, but in 1920 it was renamed Coober Pedy from the aboriginal 'kupa' and 'piti' meaning 'white man' and 'hole in ground'. Following the first European exploration of the area by John McDouall Stuart in 1858, 14 year old Will Hutchison, a member of his father's gold-prospecting party, discovered the first opal in 1915. The first 6 claims were pegged along the Stuart Range from Coober Pedy to 15 km to the south-east. The pioneering O'Neill brothers made the first major finds on the sixth claim on the Big Flat Field, now in the town area, where no further new prospecting is allowed. Early miners dug their shafts by hand with basic tools: pick, shovel, knife, pliers, a hand windlass and bucket. They only had to follow surface vertical traces down into the ground about 3 metres to mine the opal.
From the early 1960s opal mining became mechanised, allowing mining 20-30m deep. Modern machinery now includes blowers, elevators, bulldozers, tunnelling machines and noodling machines. Today Coober Pedy is known as the 'Opal Capital of the World' because more than 75% of the world's commercial opal is mined here. One of the largest pieces of opal found was the Olympic Australis stone from the Eight Mile Field in 1965, which weighed 3.5 kg.
Although Lake Eyre, Australia's largest lake, had not been on our itinerary when we first arrived in country, I had been aware of the lake for many years having seen the first ABC documentary on its existence and origins. Although normally having water in it every 30 years or so, the heavy rains of the last 3 years have meant that myriads of tourists have been able to avail themselves of this spectacle. There is now a second ABC DVD – 'Return to Lake Eyre' - although in my humble opinion not a patch on the first.
We had initially thought to do the flight from Hawker but considered A$750 pp (party of 4) a bit steep. At Coober Pedy it's A$450 pp (party of 4) but there was no difficulty in arranging the booking. So, on the 21st July Sandra & I, together with a couple from Melbourne, met our pilot Chui (pronounced Chewey) at the airport 3 km north of town for a 0745 hrs start. Mr Wright of Wright's Air (also trading as Opal Air) has spent over 20 years in the area based out of William Creek and has now amassed 12-15 aircraft and substantial assets. Having seen William Creek it would take more than riches to hold me in such a benighted and barren area.
So off we went in a single engine above wing monoplane, leaving initially to the north-east such that we could circle the 2 main mineral mines in the area (iron ore and copper/gold respectively) and then overfly the Painted Hills. Although quite low, these mineral laden outcrops are quite spectacular with the red of the iron, the yellow of the sulphur and the white of the calcium. Further out we crossed the Dog Fence with the Breakaways before crossing the Oodnadatta Track and the old Ghan Line. This is the first abandoned Ghan Railway Line, the shortened form of Afghan Line. In fact our fellow passengers were driving north to Darwin before loading themselves and their vehicles on The Ghan for a train journey back to Adelaide.
As we approached Lake Eyre North we began to identify the various creeks and rivers that flow into it, carrying water down from NT and Queensland. In the distance we could see Lake Eyre South, which derives its water from Lake Eyre North, but didn't overfly it. Thousands upon thousands of ducks flew below us and pelicans were to be seen massed on the various islands and spits of land. Unfortunately we were too high to make out any great detail. Having flown the length and breadth of the lake it was touchdown at William Creek, where we paid for our flights and had a mooch around. We also acquired a fifth passenger, a young female psychologist who had been studying the effects of isolation on bush dwellers.
Finally it was due west and back to Coober Pedy, flying parallel to Lake Cadibarrawirracanna which has the longest name of any lake in Australia and possibly the world. This is purely surface/rain water as no creeks or rivers feed it. Indeed there was still evidence of residual surface water in many of the creeks and depressions that we flew over and the desert was apparently greener than it had been in years. A most enjoyable 4 hour experience and one more item to score from the ever increasing 'Bucket List'. But it's that sort of country.
And so we leave Coober Pedy with mention of just a few more points. There is an excellent Library where we were able to log on to free Wi-Fi. (All too soon we were to discover that NT is not so well provisioned). There is no travellers' book-swap but countless books were available for a non-specified but minimal donation. Water is a limited resource in Coober Pedy and there is a 'pay water supply point' on one of the main roads. By fuel pump high pressure nozzle it costs 20 cents for 20-30 litres or, through a narrow hose, 20 cents for 10-15 litres. As both are on timers, the latter is the more cost effective if you are trying to fill caravan tanks.
We departed Cooper Pedy after a 5 day stay, travelling north to exit SA just above Marla - an insignificant flyspeck of a town that preys financially off the backs of travellers. Luckily we were well provisioned and so could just look at the prices and gasp. This section of the Stuart Highway, from Coober Pedy to the turn off for Ayers Rock/Uluru at Erldunda, was new road for us although, as it turned out, there was nothing significant about it
And so to the SA/NT border, where we took the obligatory photographs before heading a short distance north to find off-road parking near a pumping station. The parking at the border itself was so small and limited as to be derisory. The first turn-off was 132 km south of Alice Springs, where we risked 15 km of good gravel road to visit the Henbury Meteorite Craters. These are a series of impact craters formed when a disintegrating meteor struck this area 20-40,000 years ago. The largest of the craters is 180m across, although it merges with a neighbouring crater. Obviously, over the intervening years erosion and vegetation have marred the clear edges but they are still there and the vistas and signage make the trip well worthwhile. Free camping is available overnight and we shared a dazzling night sky and an otherworldly silence with a couple from Adelaide in a whizz-bang. There is a picnic area with seating and a bush toilet.
Leaving the next morning it was but 40 km before we arrived at Stuart's Well, aka Jim's Place, where we again made the acquaintance of Dinky the Dingo, a 'would-be' Australian icon. We have recounted the story of Stuart's Well and Jim Catterall previously and indeed that evening Jim did it again, although this time the talk was slanted more to the ecological impact of the dingo or more specifically the absence of the dingo. As before, Dinky jumped up on the piano keyboard but this time both plinked the keys and howled - so truly a solo artist. As before, we found Jim arrogant and objectionable but then Jim's Place is up for sale and his 70+ wife is already living in Alice Springs where she is a realtor. Jim's son already runs a tourist firm out of Alice organising trips etc and Jim is to return to the life of guide. Guess some people can never stop chasing money!! Over the 5 years Dinky has become greyer and fatter and after his recital just curled up in a chair while Jim gave his spiel. Guess we won't be seeing him or Jim again!!
Adjacent to Jim's Place you have Noel Fullerton's Camel Farm - entry free and masses of photo opportunities. Noel, the 'Camel King', started the annual 'Camel Cup' and has won it 4 times or more. Rides are available around the yard, by the hour and for treks out bush and to Rainbow Valley, but we were a little concerned at the 'No Insurance' signs clearly posted. Noel actually exports camels back to the Middle East and the Arabian Peninsula as well as worldwide and 15years ago a good camel was worth A$5,000. Couldn't find out today's prices. In respect of educational value, we found the Camel Park just south of Alice far more comprehensive.
We overnighted at Jim's Place, staying on the freesite as opposed to the Caravan Park. It's just a dusty paddock on a slight slope but the adjacent Caravan Park is small with trees planted too close together. You may light camp fires on the freesite but need to bring your own wood. There is no water available, the stand-pipe having disappeared since 2006. To give you an idea of the meal prices, a Coke was A$3.10/can and we had Camel Burgers with a few chips and salad, which cost us A$30 for the 2 meals. Actually the meat patty was miniscule and it might just as well have been dog-meat! You left feeling hungry. We noted that only 3 of the dozen on the freesite actually came in for a meal/drink.
Just 14 km north of Jim's place is the turnoff to Rainbow Valley but this time we drove straight past to enter Alice Springs at about 10 am. Having spent 5 days in Alice Springs on our last visit, and with no new publicised attractions to peak our interest, we decided to stock up with fuel and food and leave before day's end. In respect of the water and cassette toilet, there is a public dump-point to the left of the main highway just before you reach town. Diesel was 166.9c/l at both Coles and Woolies, so minus 4c/l if you have a voucher. Our huge shop at Coles netted us 3 new vouchers and we noticed that the discount had now gone up to 8c/l, although unfortunately we noted this after we had purchased fuel using an old voucher from Port Augusta. Next Coles/Woolies will be Mount Isa. Unleaded was 163.9c/l.
We visited the library in Alice, with its free travellers' book-swap, but learned to our chagrin that there was no NT Wi-Fi or NT Library Membership. You could pay to use their Wi-Fi but it was far cheaper for us to use our Telstra Dongle, given that after 6 months we have barely use A$12 of the A$150 price for 12 months' use. It's unfortunate that we shall have the Dongle expire with probably more than A$100 still on it. We were talking to some lovely Tasmanians at Coober Pedy who said how amazed they were at the Telstra Dongle, given that at home they were paying A$40/month. It was their intention to cancel their domestic contract and stick to Mobile Broadband. Wish the Vodafone service in Spain was as inexpensive.
A quick visit to the excellent Visitors Centre, where we purchased some postcards and stamps and then 'exit stage right'.
Actually we really don't like the atmosphere in Alice and there seemed to be indigenous folk everywhere; in fact far more than whites and far more than on our last visit. We have great concerns regarding personal safety, especially when you have a social element who believe (possibly correctly) that they stand outside the law, and where alcohol and drug abuse together with domestic and other violence are so common and widespread. On this visit one noted groups of primarily aboriginal women scattered around grassed areas selling examples of aboriginal art. I'd rather buy a 'paint by numbers' kit - and that's my prerogative. We noted the queues to enter the various Caravan Parks and that night, when we stopped at the 'Tropic of Capricorn' rest area, the majority of travellers were stopping overnight before Alice to mimic that which we had just done. We really liked Alice on the occasion of our last visit but then we were travelling with 2 motorhomes and thus could camp 'out-bush' overnight; almost 'circling the wagons'.
With Sandra not feeling too good, we stopped for the night at the 'Tropic of Capricorn' rest area and that proved to be a mistake. Given that we are self-sufficient, we really don't need toilet facilities and water but, in consequence of our position, we were joined by a slew of backpackers in sundry tired vehicles. One pair of drunken males parked opposite and kept the entire site disturbed until 9.30 pm, carousing and playing loud music. Then at 7 am the next morning an Outback Tours bus disgorged a mass of thoughtless older travellers, who ensured that no-one stayed abed. It's the last time we stay in such a parking area, although we had no such difficulties in SA.
So north along the Stuart Highway, transiting Aileron and Ti Tree but without stopping in either. First stop on Sunday 31st July was in fact Wycliffe Well, which is the UFO capital of Australia, holding the record for the greatest number of UFO sightings. Nothing much here apart from a very clean if virtually empty Caravan Park and a servo with a shop. Both diesel and unleaded were 199.9c/l and gratefully we didn't need any. All the buildings had 'Alien' paintings on them and there was a photo opportunity for Sandra, in that she was able to pose behind the representation of an Alien and stick her head through the face hole.
Lastly, The Devil's Marbles, 106 km from Tennant Creek and worth a quick detour. You can camp here overnight but the camping area is really small and really dusty. We had visited once before on the first journey but we still took a few photos before heading a further 60 km and finding excellent bush camping just 200m off the main highway, totally secluded and screened by brush and earth banks.
So here we end July! Tomorrow we hope to reach Tennant Creek, where we shall rest for a few days and take in the sights - such as they are. There is a lake outside Tennant Creek and I am hopeful of a few yabbys; we have the liver to use as bait, although we have heard that cat-food and dog biscuits are acceptable alternatives. We have never sampled yabbys, being unable to buy them at Esperance you may remember. Will let you know what happens.
After Tennant Creek it will be 25 km to Three Ways and then across Barclay Tablelands to Mount Isa and quite a full program. We have already been advised to visit the Drovers Hall of Fame (or something similar) at Camooweal, then there is the Rodeo at Mount Isa (10-14 August) plus a Mine Tour, followed by Winton and surrounding towns for the Dinosaur remains and lastly Rubyvale for the fossikking. Our only sadness here is that we won't be seeing friends and fellow travellers Merv and Judy.
Dr Bob in Oz - August 2011
The month started at Tennant Creek and what a different perception to our first visit in 2006. The numerous indigenous were unchanged, as was their surly manner, and we can only ascribe the subjective change to the fact that this time we were travelling alone and not encumbered by a New Zealand family in a Jayco Motorhome. Whatever the reason, it was a turn for the better - such that our proposed 2 day stay turned into 4 and we were quite sad to leave and travel north at the end of the week.
As a town Tennant Creek really began with the last great Gold Rush of Australia. This only occurred in the 1930's so the town is relatively young. It all began with Charlie Windley, a linesman of the Overland Telegraph line, who uncovered gold in the ironstone hills near where the town now stands.
As we entered town we saw the signs for the 2 main caravan parks and then the one offering bush camping for A$6 pp per night. This turned out to be The Juno Horse Centre Bush Camp and it was 'just what the doctor ordered'. 7 km out of town past the Tourist Information/Visitor Centre, it was shaded if dusty with copious sweet water on tap, free washing machine and excellent showers. Unfortunately it won't be there after the end of the month, as it is being ceded back to or sold back to a local Aboriginal tribe as some form of training/education centre. So all you will then have are the usual noisy caravan parks (2 at present) charging over A$30 per night for 2 persons and more if your party is larger.
We certainly saw more here than last time, although with our first stop being the excellent TI/VC it seemed only sensible to start our stay with a guided tour of the old gold mine. Actually the mine is closed, but yet again with plans to re-open and expand. The various working exhibits are in fact housed in a mining tunnel cut for training purposes. Our guide, Bob, went down the mines here at age 17 as his father also worked there. The legal age was 18 but the mine falsified his papers.
The nature of the unusual formation of gold in the Tennant Creek goldfields created the need for a powerful extraction process. Gold here is not deposited in quartz, which easily releases its gold content. Here, the precious metal is deposited as tiny grains in the incredibly hard ironstone. The ironstone needed to be crushed down to dust, to release the fine gold particles. This process used a Stamp Battery, a massive piece of crushing machinery, which remains on site today. Tours give visitors a first-hand experience of life during the Gold Rush. This tour is a comfortable walk through an underground tunnel with working machinery demonstrated. A$20 per adult. Tour duration one and a half hours. The mine tour we felt was excellent and we then walked the entire site above surface, capturing many evocative images.
On our way out to Juno Horse Centre Bush Camp we diverted to visit the Bill Allen Lookout, which offers views over the surrounding countryside. We have seen much better!
The following day it was 11 km north of town to the Telegraph Station. Long abandoned but maintained as a tourist attraction, admission to the site is free although to enter the locked buildings you need to leave a key deposit of A$20 at TI/VC. Before the discovery of gold the only thing in this landscape was the Overland Telegraph Repeater Station. The station is located along a seasonal creek named after John Tennant, who helped fund the initial exploration journeys of John McDouall Stuart. Built with deep verandas to withstand the heat, working the Telegraph Station must have been an incredibly isolated lifestyle. As a point of interest, it was one of the Telegraph staff who first discovered gold. The line-poles needed to be replaced episodically due to the predation of white ants. On this occasion a large rock of unusual nature was discovered in the new hole and sent to Adelaide for analysis. Adelaide couldn't help and so the rock was transferred to the Gold Exploration Centre at Peterborough. The next thing was the publication in the National Press of 'Gold Discovered at Tennant Creek', which sparked the Gold Rush of the early 1930's.
On the way back from The Telegraph Station it was only a minor detour from the highway to visit Lake Mary Ann, which, quite rightly, is perceived as the 'jewel of this desert town'. The facilities are excellent and well cared for and although No Camping is allowed (you can free-camp anywhere before the cattle grid), the hot showers are allegedly excellent, as are the picnic areas, lush lawns and swimming areas. We had quite a yarn with local Rangers Mickey and Brian and were so entertained by their local tales that we later sent an email commendation to the HR Manager at The Shire Council. Good blokes!
So, on the morning of our fifth day it was time to travel north 25 km to Three Ways and head east across Barkly Tableland to Camooweal in Queensland. There are innumerable overnight campsites on the way, many with water and some with bush toilets. I regret to report that none, apart from 41Mile Bore, could be recommended, being in the main small, busy and extremely noisy. Of particular annoyance is the usage of these areas by road-trains, even though they have their own parking areas which caravans and other vehicles are not supposed to use. Refrigerated vehicles are particularly tiresome, as is the manner in which the truck engine is left running for a good 15 minutes after stopping and then a further 15mins before the behemoth departs. Just bloody bad manners. Having said that, many fellow travellers show no respect for their fellows, apparently feeling that if they are up, then everyone else should be up; it just appears to be becoming that type of world. However at least the sites are free, whereas in Caravan Parks you get disturbed EVEN THOUGH you are paying!!
A relatively pleasant journey across, apart from losing another caravan tyre. Indeed, by the time I noticed the bits of rubber flying out behind us in the side mirror, I was just left with canvas. As at Coober Pedy, changing the tyre proved without difficulty and we arrived safely at Camooweal to park beside the Georgina River just to the west of the town, as recommended previously be several fellow travellers.
How right they were and we spent a weekend being captivated by all manner of birdlife: Brolga Cranes, White-faced Herons, Little, Intermediate and Great Egrets, Pacific Herons, Straw-Necked Ibis, Night Herons (Juvenile), Masked Lapwing (northern type), Black-Chested Dodderill/Plovers, Welcome Swallows in flocks collecting mud from the drying banks, Sacred Kingfishers, Whistling Kites and several others species of raptor, Mud Larks, Budgerigars, Galahs, Little Correllas, and on and on. We took hundreds of photos over the 2 days and chatted with numerous other fellow travellers, the majority travelling east.
Come Monday it was into town, where we managed to purchase not 1 but 2 caravan tyres. The one replaced the flat and became the spare, while the other went up on the roof-rack of the 4x4. We shall try to get an additional rim from a scrapper on the east coast. Just a quick personal note. The tyre place was the BP garage and, while we found the husband/mechanic extremely pleasant, his wife and indeed all the female staff at the servo restaurant were so rude as to be really offensive. If we had been doing anything other than replacing a spare caravan tyre then we should just have walked out.
While we were waiting for the new tyre to be fitted to the rim we drove east about a kilometre and visited the Drovers' Camp. Donation only and we had a lovely visit hosted by a retired Boss Drover called Pat. In fact there were 2 ex-Drovers on duty (not sure if there are more in total) and they turn up day after day to show visitors around the various exhibits and explain the origins of droving and what the life entailed. Fascinating and one has to 'take one's hat off' to such volunteers as Pat, who turn in day after day such that their life experiences are not forgotten. True Australians.
So, tyre fitted, it was one more night on the river bank and then the 138 km to the old WW2 airfield/free-site 50 km west of Mount Isa, where we spent the night before Census being visited by volunteers who were on-site until 8 pm. Strange to think that 5 years ago we were also in Australia for Census night, being parked outside the Rodeo Ground at Katherine where Jason, the site Superintendent, hand-delivered the form and then joined us for a yarn. We have friends at Katherine at the moment and hopefully they will discover if Jason is still there.
The next day it was into Mount Isa, calling in to the RSL Club (Returned Servicemen's League), which is on the left as you drive into town. What a stroke of luck, as a bay had been vacated that morning by fellow travellers and so there was 'room at the inn'; more than can be said for the several caravan parks in town, all of which were full to capacity. It must also be noted here that neither The Shire Council nor Tourist Information (Outback at Isa) bothered to reply to our emails requesting information about overflow arrangements.
WE HAVE A NEW WINNER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (OR LOSER) up to this point. As a result of our Australian journey 2006-7, we'd proclaimed Esperance, WA as having the rudest TI/VC. (Actually not so bad this time, it has to be said.) However, not only we but several other travellers at the RSL site will freely attest to the rudeness and lack of customer care shown by the staff at Mount Isa TI/VC. Some, including ourselves, will be writing to the Mayor in an attempt to change attitudes etc. With the exception of Mining, which makes Mount Isa an extremely affluent area, the town is dependent on tourism. All the caravan parks are between A$30-32/night for a powered site for 2 adults and, apart from the RSL Club and a dump-point with water, there are no other free traveller facilities, although oodles of free camping 'out-bush'. In addition, and returning to the rudeness of the Isa staff, unless you were purchasing tour packages they really couldn't be bothered and didn't even attempt to hide their contempt and lack of interest. Now here's a good one: not only to us, but to others, they denied the presence of available sites at the RSL Club and even went so far as to state that it had been closed by the Public Health Department. In fact we found the Club facilities excellent, as were the various 'Specials' in the nicely appointed Dining Room and Bar. There was water on-site and the outside toilets were left open 24/7 purely for the use of the travellers. The sites were free and all that was asked (not demanded) was a donation or that you eat in the restaurant on occasion. Questions will be asked!!
Anyway, putting chagrin to one side, we were there at Mt Isa for one reason only - the 3 days Xstrata Mount Isa Rotary Rodeo, billed as a 3-day non-stop rodeo action featuring the best cowboys from Australia together with a host of international stars. Actually there were about 4 of the latter. There are 8 major events - Saddle Bronc, Bareback Bronc, Bull Riding, Steer Wrestling, Rope & Tie, Team Roping, Ladies Barrel Racing and Ladies Breakaway Roping. You can see the photos and so we shall just give you a gist of what these entail:
Saddle Bronc - As the rider leaves the chute, he must synchronise his spurring action with the horse's bucking and stay on for 8 seconds. The rider is judged on his style and spurring action and disqualified if he touches the horse or equipment with his free hand, looses a stirrup or is bucked off before the end of the ride.
Bareback Bronc - With only leather pad and a handle, the rider must hold on with one hand for 8 seconds. As the horse bucks, he jerks his feet towards the withers snapping them back into position in front of the shoulder ready for the next jump. The rider is judged on his spurring action and disqualified as above.
Bull Riding - Fast, furious and dangerous. The rider must hold on with one hand and stay on the bucking bull for 8 seconds. Both animal and rider are judged: the rider on his style and the bull on its ability to buck the rider before the buzzer. The rider uses his feet to pull himself into position or hold himself upright while the bull is spinning, and is disqualified as above.
Steer Wrestling - With the use of a helper or hazer riding alongside of the steer to keep it running straight, the rider must lean from his horse and grasp the steer's horn. (Actually they just seem to hurl themselves at the steer's head). The rider then dismounts the horse and uses his feet to stop the steer's rush before rolling the steer to the ground. The clock is stopped once the steer is on its side with all 4 legs pointing in the same direction.
Rope & Tie - The calf is given a head start before the rider gives chase. From horseback, the rider ropes the calf and dismounts, rolling the calf on one side and tying 3 of the calf's legs together. The time is recorded once the tie is complete. The rider remounts his horse to prove the tie will hold - no time is given if the animal kicks free.
Team Roping - A 2-man rider team; the steer is given a head start. The header ropes the steer around the neck, head or horns before the heeler moves in to rope the hind legs. The rope is then dallied around the saddle horn. Once secured, time is recorded when both horses are facing each other with no slack in the ropes.
Ladies Barrel Racing - Competing against the clock, the rider guides her horse around a clover leaf pattern of three 205L drums. Time penalties are imposed for knocking over a barrel and disqualification for running in an incorrect pattern.
Ladies Breakaway Roping - After a head start, the rider gives chase and catches the calf with a rope attached to the saddle horn with a ribbon. Once the catch is made, the horse slides to a halt, the rope breaks away from the saddle horn and the clock stops.
There were other events for juvenile/young riders but they were generally uninteresting.
One other competition bears mentioning: the 'QR Silver Spike Competition' where the best tracklayers in Queensland competed to lay 13m of railroad track in the safest and fastest time. The teams lift 3000 kg of equipment by hand per race, laying sleepers, the track and nailing in 160 dog spikes before racing a pump-car along the track to the stop-block. 6 heats and a Final made for interesting viewing, with 2 teams per heat competing against each other.
I must just mention the few supporting acts: The Crack Up Sisters, and 4 Country and Western Singers. On the first night there was also the Mardi Gras Parade and then the Official Rodeo Opening Ceremony, both of which appeared really amateurish when compared to Europe and the Far East.
So that was the Rodeo, with the 3-day tickets costing A$75 pp. We attended daily and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Seats were at a premium and so it paid to get in by mid-morning, latest, and hang on to your seat all day!!
Having finished the rodeo it was time to stock up and prepare to depart east through Cloncurry and on to the Dinosaurs at Winton. One other attraction was well worth visiting and so we spent a lovely day at Lake Moondarra, some 16 km out of town. Originally the town's water supply, it is now the main recreational area for Mt Isa with swimming, fishing, boating, BBQ facilities and sweeping lawns with shade-trees. We spent an idyllic day just reading and relaxing, returning pink and cheerful after the raucous clamour of the Rodeo.
The following day we exited town heading towards Cloncurry. Didn't actually get there, as we had been told about another idyllic dam just 70 km out, the Clem Walton Park, and the Dam on the Corella River. No difficulty finding the place along just 1.5 km of well maintained gravel road. We stayed for 3 days and caught absolutely nothing in our nets apart from 1 terrapin/turtle we have yet to identify, 1 fresh water mollusc and 1 small redclaw (freshwater crayfish). In addition we had a cold blustery wind which precluded outdoor activities as it blew the length of the 'van, which didn't provide a windbreak. Quite a lot of bird life but nothing like as plentiful, varied or close as at Georgina River.
So after 3 days, and having used lake water to wash the red dust of the Red Centre from the 'van and 4x4, it was the remaining 50 km into Cloncurry. As before we parked at the TI/VC where we filled our tanks with water - bore water, so not suitable for drinking, but AOK for showers and washing up. Absolutely no wild camping was allowed, as attested to by the numerous signs bearing the stamp of the CEO. So, quid pro quo, we visited the Afghan and Chinese Cemeteries, then left town to park 8 km east. So, as well as not using the Caravan Parks (the owners of which are undoubtedly on the Shire Council), we purchased neither shopping, fuel nor indeed anything else. We are informed that at Winton you can park behind one of the Hotels either free or for a donation, so we shall see how that goes. Actually there was absolutely nothing in Cloncurry worth seeing and even the Mine Tour that we went on last time no longer operates.
Our overnight was uneventful and undisturbed and so the next morning it was just 100 km to McKinlay and the Walkabout Creek Hotel. So who remembers? It's the hotel in 'Crocodile Dundee'!! Actually the hotel is the same but it has, since the film, been moved to a position beside the highway. The barmaid was from Lichfield UK, although she studied Catering in London where she met her Zimbabwean husband. He is the Chef and general factotum. Their campervan broke down (big-time) in Isa and the bill cleaned them out. They drove through to Townsville and an Agency sent them all the way back to McKinlay and the pub where they will be working for 3 months. We could have just taken photographs (a bit different from most iconic pubs where a 'gold-coin' donation is required) but we took our photos and then purchased 2 soft drinks (same price as booze) and had a yarn.
The highway between Cloncurry and Winton turned out to be atrocious and we realised why the Highways Board at Cloncurry was showing CAUTION. Apparently this 350 km stretch is being upgraded incrementally but currently it is diabolical, almost as bad as the stretch on Barkly Tableland just west of the NT/Queensland border.
Winton - It's strange how one often feels an atmosphere about a place as soon as one arrives. Sandra and I did about the cottage ('finca') we purchased in Spain, and so it was at Winton. It just felt friendly and comfortable. We had been informed of the free-camping behind the North Gregory Hotel right in the middle of town and there it was, clearly marked. In reality it's just a big dusty yard behind the pub but there is water and a somewhat unhygienic-looking toilet and single shower. But adequate. The sign from the road stated 'Free Parking' but a notice at the yard exhorted you to 'sign in'. We did read somewhere that there was an A$10 deposit redeemable against a meal at the hotel but we never saw this policed and anyway the Chef was in goal. We stayed the night but found it too crowded, too noisy and too dusty. We did however meet a lovely couple in the caravan next door, who live just 45 minutes away from our very first Australian friends, Geoff and Marg at Mountain Creek. Originally farmers, they sold up after the first Queensland floods of 3 years ago, having seen 1 million dollars' worth of cotton inundated. Still it enabled them to take early retirement (just 50 but looking so much younger) and they have just purchased their caravan, with this being their first trip. They left the following day but we/they have already been in touch.
The next day it was 4 km south of town to Long Waterhole and it was here that we wild-camped for the duration of our 7 day stay. We were never alone (unfortunately), gaining neighbours each and every evening, although the same leaving each morning. Gratefully one neighbour didn't - Terry and his amazing Great Dane/Mastiff-cross, Bruno. We visited and chatted each afternoon with Bruno snoozing contentedly beside us. Terry is now retired and divorced and just travels this amazing country with Bruno as his companion. Another traveller we shall be in touch with over the years.
So what is there to see at Winton? Just so much. Winton is the home of the Australian Dinosaur and we visited both of the main attractions:
1. The Lark Quarry Dinosaur Stampede, 110 km south of town (half sealed and half reasonable gravel road), where you can view the one fossilized Dinosaur Stampede in the world. So how good is that? Over 3,300 fossilised footprints are on display originating from 95-100 million years ago. There are guided tours 3 times daily and the various dinosaur tracks are identified and a history given of the region and the building of the Centre, which now protects the footprints. One of the local librarians told us later that when she first settled in the town there was no sheltering building and people used to visit, damage and even remove pieces of the fossil evidence. In fact the agricultural worker who discovered the tracks was an opal seeker in his spare time and it was only by chance that he didn't run his bulldozer over this amazing area of the landscape. For more information on Lark Quarry and indeed Winton and environs, see www.matildacentre.com.au or email .
2. The second dinosaur feature is The Australian Age of Dinosaurs, 25 km south-east of town off the road to Longreach, home to the world's largest collection of Australian Dinosaur fossils and the site of the biggest fossil preparation laboratory in the southern hemisphere. Located on the top of a huge mesa plateau called 'the jump-up', there is currently a huge shed with a new Centre currently under construction. The track up is steep so there is an unhitching area for caravans and trailers before you ascend. There are 4 tours/day of approximately 1 hour duration and we found it, and our guide George, fascinating. Actually George turned out to be the best presenter that we have found on this trip to date but then he did audition for the Australian TV series 'Beauty and the Geek' and you'll have to 'google' that yourselves as we never saw it. Anyway, previously a fruit and veg picker, he now styles himself a palaeontologist, although he primarily prepares dinosaur bones. Such are the number of the fossils available that the Centre collects from the local plains for just 3 weeks/year (using volunteers), which provides sufficient raw material for over a year. Volunteers actually pay for this privilege, but having seen the work we decided it was not for us.
Other attractions in Winton:
The Musical Fence - Devised in 2003 by percussionist Graeme Leak.
Arno's Wall - An eccentric landmark, the wall consists of rock from Opalton studded with a miscellany of objects. It surrounds the home of the owner, who lives between Winton and his mine at Opalton.
Pelican Waterhole - Robert Allen first settled at Pelican Waterhole in 1875. After being flooded out in 1876, he moved his hotel/store (on the site of what today is the National Australia Bank) to become the first settler at the present site of Winton. There are a few remains left but safely fenced away. Robert Allen was the Postmaster and, finding the name Pelican Waterhole too cumbersome to write on postage stamps, he used the name Winton which was the name of the suburb in Bournemouth where he had been born.
Historic Cemetery – A self-guided tour, using a pamphlet from TI/VC with the appropriate graves clearly marked.
Route of the River Gums - Map from TI/VC.
Cattleyards - Sales every other Tuesday.
Artesian Bores - Winton is famous for its water supply: 4 bores, all around 1.2 km deep, emerging at a temperature of 83C and cooled to 44C before being reticulated into the town's supply. You might notice a strong odour from the water, which comes rich in minerals and Hydrogen Sulphide gas. Once the gas is allowed to escape, either by standing or boiling, the water is excellent - and we can attest to that! One Bore at a farmstead 100 km out of town delivers its water to the surface at 99C.
Opalton and fossicking for Boulder and Pipe Opals - We didn't visit Opalton as we found the part unpaved road to Lark Quarry more than enough for us.
Corfield and Fitzmaurice Building - With its Dinosaur diorama depicting the Dinosaur Stampede at Lark Quarry. Useful to visit here before you visit the quarry.
The Waltzing Matilda Centre - The town's Tourist Information/Visitor Centre. In our humble opinion the best TI/VC that we have ever visited in Australia - and we wrote to the Shire Council informing them!! The staff were just so friendly and helpful and, putting aside the usual gift shop (we never use these) and the serried rows of brochures, there are a number of separate exhibits, the main one being the history and romance of the song 'Waltzing Matilda' ( Billabong Theatrette and Home of Legends Room). You could spend half a day on this portion of the Centre alone but in addition you have The Qantilda Museum, the Outback Regional Art Gallery, the Sarah Riley Theatre, Rural Machinery exhibit and Shearing Shed, Sarah MacPherson Cottage and the Banjo Patterson Room. All this in one Centre and with one admission price.
Actually this brings us on to a nice piece of local folklore, as we purchased Shin Plaster tickets which allowed us admission to the Waltzing Matilda attractions, Lark Quarry, the Australian Age of Dinosaurs and the Corfield and Fitzmaurice Building (and also discounts at some of the local businesses, including the RSL Club). The shin plaster tickets are A$53 per adult and A$45/Senior. Anyway in the early days of the country, and as a substitute form of currency, outback storekeepers printed their own 'notes' which were redeemable for goods at a later date, guaranteeing them future sales. However, a few unprincipled storekeepers began the practice of baking their notes in the oven, which caused them to disintegrate after a few days in the pocket! Not to be outdone, the ingenious swaggies found that by securing them to their shins to keep them moist they were able to outwit the con men, and they soon became known as Shin Plasters.
What does Waltzing Matilda mean?
I/we don't think that any history of Winton would be complete without a mention of the unofficial Australian National Anthem 'Waltzing Matilda'. It humbles me to admit that at 64 years of age I finally know the meaning of the song. So, here is the nomenclature:
Swagman - a drifter, a hobo or an itinerant shearer, who carried all his belongings wrapped up in a blanket or cloth called a swag.
Billabong - a waterhole.
Coolibah - a eucalyptus tree.
Billy - a tin can with a wire handle, used to boil water.
Jumbuck - a sheep.
Tucker Bag - a bag, often made of calico, used for keeping food (tucker).
Squatter - a station landowner, manager or lessee.
Trooper - a policeman or a mounted militia-man.
The phrase 'Waltzing Matilda' is believed to have originated with German immigrants who settled in Australia. 'Waltzing' is derived from the German term, to go 'auf der Waltz', which meant to travel while learning a trade. Young apprentices in those days travelled the country working under a master craftsman, earning their living as they went and sleeping where they could.
'Matilda' also has Teutonic origins and means Mighty Battle Maiden. The name is believed to have been given to female camp followers who accompanied soldiers during the 30 Years' War in Europe. This came to mean 'to be kept warm at night' and then later to mean the army great coats or blankets that soldiers wrapped themselves in. These were rolled into a swag and tossed over their shoulders when marching. So the phrase 'Waltzing Matilda' came to mean to travel from place to place looking for work, with all one's belongings on one's back wrapped in a blanket or cloth. Such was the role of the Swagman in early Australia.
And so to the end of another month, which has yielded us so many more memories. Tennant Creek, Georgina River at Camooweal, Mount Isa Rodeo and Lake, and finally Winton, one of the three towns in the Dinosaur triangle.
Although we have yet to finish this journey we have already started compiling the itinerary for the next, somewhere 2014-15. After we land at Brisbane we shall need to travel to Melbourne for repairs to the caravan and to have Solar fitted (by Cesare at Walkabout Caravans), then it will be north again as far as Townsville, where we shall turn west to take in Hughendon and Richmond. That's as far as we have got so far, and of course we need to 'fine-tune'. Having said that, much of what we stumble across is in 'the lap of the Gods' and, in retirement, who would have it any other way.
We'll close by just referring to our friends and mentors, Barry and Margaret Williamson, who have been such an inspiration to us (www.magbaztravels.com). They recently sent us an email about travels and I unashamedly plagiarise their quotations (from 'The Art of Wandering' by Leon Wieseltier):
“The road is not a line between places; it is a place between places, a place of its own.”
“If departure is the past and arrival is the future, then the road is the present and there is nothing more spiritually difficult or spiritually rewarding than learning to live significantly in the present.”
.JPG)
