TRAVEL NOTES: SCANDINAVIA 2011
Based on a Scandinavian Journey by Sprinter Van,
Caravan and Bicycles
Margaret and Barry Williamson November
2011
Related Links:
In
Norway May-June 2011
In
Norway July 2011
In
Norway August 2011
In
Sweden September 2011
Return to the UK
2011
NORWAY: Basic Data
Distance:
4,660 miles 7,455
km
Time:
84
days
12 weeks (3 months)
Average:
55 miles/day
88 km/day No of Overnight Stays:
32 No of
Ferries:
19 Cost of Ferries:
£475
545 Average Ferry Cost:
£25
28.75 No of
Tolls:
18 Cost of Tolls:
£45
51.75 Average Toll Cost:
£2.50
2.87 Toll Cost/mile:
£0.9/mile
0.69/km
SWEDEN: Basic Data
Distance:
1,650 miles 2,640
km
Time:
30
days
4 weeks (1 month)
Average:
55 miles/day
88 km/day No of Overnight Stays:
13 No of
Ferries:
0 No of
Tolls:
0
Approximate Exchange Rates in November 2011
£1 = 8.7 Danish Krone (DKK)
= 9.1 Norwegian
Krone (NOK) = 10.7
Swedish Krona (SEK) = 1.16 Euro in
Finland
Costs
Norway is undeniably expensive but, to put it in
perspective, you'd have to travel to New Zealand or Alaska to experience any
comparable scenery and Norway is on a much larger scale. We could not put a
price on the experience of visiting the Norwegian mountains, fjords and
islands. When you've gone as far north as you wish, or can afford, cross the
border to Sweden for your return journey. Finland, using the Euro, is the
Scandinavian bargain once you get there.
Food
Norway is the most expensive, so stock up in Germany and Denmark at stores
like Lidl, Aldi or Netto. The main Norwegian supermarkets are ICA and Coop
(pronounced coop!) with Bunnpris, Rimi and Rema costing a little less. Lidl etc
have been kept out. We never found long life milk and fresh milk was very
expensive. Even so, there were one or two bargains.
The uncut brown loaves (Kneipbrod) are a staple, much cheaper than
rolls or sliced bread, and they can be put through a slicing machine in the
supermarket (though they keep longer whole). Or take a bread-maker and bake
your own. A hot roast chicken from the Coop cost less than a frozen one to
cook yourself. The Coop had some discounts with a loyalty card but the card
cost 300 NOK, so not worth it for a short visit. Bunnpris had a good discount
on certain products on weekdays (mince, frozen salmon, chicken pieces,
sausages or pork cubes, depending on the day of the week) and there were
special offers, such as a free packet of bacon with a dozen eggs. If you fish,
there's plenty in the sea and rivers. If not, befriend anglers on the
campsite! We were given delicious haddock, cod and herring by German and Welsh
neighbours.
Sweden was slightly less expensive (Norwegians near the border go over to
shop). ICA and the Coop dominate but there were a few Lidl stores in the
southern half of the country. Again the Coop sells a loyalty card.
Finland was cheapest (bordering Swedes shop there). Lidl is fairly common,
reaching above the Arctic Circle to the world's northernmost branch in
Sodankyla.
There are no problems shopping in Denmark, with Lidl and Netto costing
slightly more than in Germany.
Eating Out
Apart from the usual fast-food at McDonalds or Burger King (which also have
the cheapest coffee), dining out is a luxury. The best deals are always on
weekday lunchtimes, including supermarket cafes. For a treat, try the mid-day
set lunch or an 'all-you-can-eat' self-service buffet at a restaurant or hotel.
Especially in Sweden and Finland, this can cost under £10 each, including
drinks and coffee.
Fuel
Petrol and diesel are most expensive in Norway (despite their North Sea oil)
and cheapest in Finland, where it costs less than Germany. But it's a major and
unavoidable expense of touring Scandinavia. Note that LPG is rarely seen at
filling stations. Finland has none, Sweden and Denmark only a few and Norway
about 125. See the list of POI sources below for more information.
POIs
POIs (Points of Interest) are useful within a GPS receiver or a SatNav. The
device may come with some ready loaded and others can be added via a computer.
There are a number of websites which provide lists of POIs, usually free of
charge although some sites ask that you 'register' with them. These lists vary
in their accuracy and in their coverage; here are some sources that we have
used for Scandinavia:
http://poiplaza.com/index.php?p=dc&c=31
(Norway, including 125 LPG stations)
http://poiplaza.com/index.php?p=dc&c=39
(Sweden including 18 LPG stations)
http://poiplaza.com/index.php?p=dc&c=14&lpg=&d=&pg=2
(Denmark including 8 LPG stations)
http://poiplaza.com/index.php?p=dc&c=16
(Finland including 0 LPG stations)
http://poi.gps-data-team.com/
http://www.poihandler.com/overview.aspx
Tolls
There are no road or motorway tolls in Denmark, Sweden or Finland. Norway has
an Autopass system on some highways, though with an average toll of £2.50 it
costs less than, say, French motorways. Basically,
you log on to www.autopass.no to
register a credit card and create an account, in which you deposit 300 NK if
you are under 3.5 tons. This is valid for up to 3 months. Then road tolls (not
just on motorways) are paid from this account when you drive through an
automatic toll point, or 'Automatisk Bomstasjon' which reads your
number plate. This includes some tunnels, but a few bridges, tunnels and all
ferries are extra.
You must register in advance, or within 14
days of passing your first Automatic Toll. Should you stay for more than 3
months, you have to repeat the process. The promise that 'any remaining amount
on your account is credited to your credit card 3 months after the agreement
period is concluded' was kept. Motorhomers need to know that the tolls are
higher (often double) for vehicles over 3.5 tons. Travelling with a caravan, we
eventually discovered that caravans (or any other trailers) are free, so we
were charged as a car/vehicle under 3.5 tons.
The ferries charge by length and are
paid on board or as you board, by cash or credit card. You could plan a route
to avoid most of these ferries if you must, but taking the coastal road 17
with its many short ferries (rather than the busy E6 highway) was an
experience we wouldn't have missed. Although some tunnels charge a toll,
the world's longest tunnel (24.5 km = 15 miles) was free!
Credit Cards
There is no need to carry a large amount of cash. Debit and credit cards are
widely used throughout Scandinavia for everything: shops, fuel, cafes,
campsites. In fact they are generally preferred to cash! A very few campsites
demanded cash. However, in Denmark (and occasionally in Sweden) campsites added
a percentage for card payment, so be aware!
Campsites
Savings can be made here, as there is plenty of opportunity to overnight away
from campsites. Water and dump points are often provided in rest areas along
the highways (except in more crowded Denmark) and free-camping is tolerated.
Some of the Norwegian towns have dedicated motorhome parking, costing less
than a campsite.
When you do need a campsite, they provide excellent facilities including
kitchens equipped with free cookers, microwaves (and even a dishwasher on
some). This all saves precious gas. Laundries always have tumble driers or,
sometimes, a free heated drying room. Some sites had a fixed fee for using the
laundry room for a set time, which was good value if you could wash and dry 2
or 3 loads at once. Camping prices were no higher than say Western Europe in
the high season. Most sites have coin-operated showers, typically charging
over £1 for 5 minutes. Use your own if possible! Also, the season in the North
is short, with many campsites closed by the end of August, when school
holidays finish.
You'll need a 'Camping Card Scandinavia', valid for
1 year, bought for around £10 at your first campsite. Printed campsite guides
to each country are freely available at campsites and Tourist Offices. See
also www.dk-camp.dk, www.camping.no, www.nafcamp.no, www.camping.se and www.camping.fi. Denmark has many campsites in the
ACSI Card discount scheme www.campingcard.co.uk, though there are very few
such sites in the other Scandinavian countries.
Climate
We had excellent weather through May to September,
dry and ideal for walking and cycling. Not for sunbathing, perhaps, but better
than in the UK! The Norwegian coast was sometimes windy and too cool for
swimming, but the lakes in Sweden and Finland were warm enough. The snow does
not usually arrive until October in the far north, November in the south, and
lasts till April. We saw none, except that still lying on very high ground
in early May.
Getting There
There are currently no ferries from England to
Norway and we regret the loss of the Newcastle-Bergen boat. The
possibilities include:
Take a ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg on the west
coast of Denmark, the furthest north in mainland Europe you can now go by ferry
from the UK. A one-day drive then takes you to Hirsthals at the top of
Denmark, where regular ferries cross to Kristiansand near the southern tip
of Norway.
Cross the North Sea to the Hook of Holland, or to
Zeebrugge, Ostend or Dunkirk, and then drive north through Germany into
Denmark.
Cross the Channel to Boulogne or Calais and drive
north through France, Belgium, Holland; then as above.
Whichever way, Norway is a long drive and
not suitable for a short break (unless you fly!)
Sweden is accessible by ferry from Denmark or
Germany, or by (toll) bridge from Denmark. Finland is reached via
Sweden, or by ferry from Estonia if driving via the Baltic
Republics.
Conclusion
Was it expensive? Yes. Was it worth it? Absolutely.
Would you go again? We certainly hope to return to Sweden and Finland, a
favourite summer haunt. Maybe not Norway, as this was our sixth visit
(including 3 journeys to Nordkapp), though our first time in the magnificent
Lofoten and Vesteralen islands. If you have yet to venture to Norway - go if
you possibly can!
|