The Fiesta de las Fallas, Valencia, Spain

Dr Bob & Sandra
March 2012

Prologue

Having purchased Mr C, our 2002 McLouis Glen 690 motorhome, in 2004 - and with the Greek Peloponnese under our belt (where we first met Magbaz at Finikounda) - we decided that 2005 would be 'the Year of the Fiesta', when we would travel around our adopted country of Spain participating in or at least attending the main Fiestas. To this end we wrote (having no email in those days) to Tourism Espana and obtained a list of their recommendations. Our recent attendance in Valencia at The Fallas marks the last on that same list, although gratefully in the intervening years we discovered that there are so many more to visit:

2005

Semana Santa (Easter)            March/April                  Seville

Horse Fair                              May                              Jerez de la Frontera

Battle of the Wines                  June                              Haro

Running of the Bulls                 July                               Pamplona

Stilt Dancing Fiesta                  July                               Anguiano

Battle of the Clarets                 July                               San Asensio

Medieval Fiesta                      July/August                     Daroca

La Tomatina                           August                            Bunol, Valencia

Rice Festival                           September                      Sueca

2006

Carnaval                                 February                          Cadiz

And now in 2012

Returning from Australia to our Spanish cottage on 25 February we had but 10 days of general housecleaning and gardening before stocking Mr C (our 2002 McLouis Glen 690 motorhome) and departing to the nearby town of Puerto Lumbreras to have Antonio Junior reset the clock display, which was still indicating that we needed a service; well,14 months away will do that! Gratefully when we had collected Mr C from storage 4 days before we had been assured that all was well with the brakes, etc. Actually we do have a squeak on the passenger side front wheel that we shall need to have investigated sooner or later.

Leaving Antonio, it was 150 km to Elche for Caravanas Cruz where we had purchased Mr C in April 2004. Communication in those far-off days was difficult but today, and for some years, they have had David, the auto-electrician and general factotum who speaks excellent English. Our only concern this time was an extinct fluorescent light in the ceiling fitting above the dinette table and this was speedily changed at no cost whatsoever. Can't imagine that happening outside Spain!

While there we sauntered around to the Sales area and were amazed to see so few second-hand vehicles for sale. The cause of our amazement was that less than a month ago the annual Camping, Caravan and Motorhome Show was held in Alicante. Now hitherto, following this and the consequent sales of vehicles, Caravanas Cruz has been stuffed with vehicles taken in part-exchange. Not so this year and one can only attribute this to the recession gripping Europe but more specifically Greece, Spain and Portugal. Suffice it to say that no vehicle, whether new or pre-owned, came close to the excellence and user-friendliness of Mr C - especially with his new solar system and upholstery both acquired in Morocco. One also noted how much prices had been slashed on both new and second-hand motorhomes and caravans but then Spain is far more expensive than UK in respect of such recreational vehicles.

In previous years we have headed along the coast from Elche, leaving the autovia before it becomes a toll-road to follow the old Route National. This time however we went directly inland from Elche on the A31 passing in turn Aspe, Novelda, Elda and Villena before exiting at the N344 and La Font de la Figuera to join the A35/A7 towards Valencia. We had deliberately left earlier than necessary specifically so we could visit the Museo de Calzado (Shoe Museum) in Elda, the Casa Museo Modernista in Novelda and the 12th century Castillo de la Atalya outside Villena. After 10 years in Spain we should have known better as, being inland from Elche/Alicante, all 3 towns turned out to be urban sprawls with disgusting tower blocks surrounding the original Spanish villages from which they erupted. Ill-advisedly, as it turned out, we entered Elda only to find ourselves on a series of narrow one-way streets with traffic parked bumper to bumper on one side. So narrow were the streets that we needed to fold in our wing mirrors. We escaped unscathed, exiting the town by our inward route once we had managed to find it. We never did find the Shoe Museum and the Tourismo (Tourist Office) seemed to be situated in the middle of the tower-block sprawl. Such a disappointment at the beginning of the journey.

The Fallas - Valencia 2012

From 12-19 March, around the saint's day of San Jose, Valencia erupts in a blaze of colour and noise for the Fiesta de las Fallas. During the year each barrio or neighbourhood builds a satirical caricature or falla. These begin to appear in the plazas of each barrio at the beginning of March and are judged and awarded prizes before being set alight at midnight on 19 March, the Nit de Foc. The festival takes its name from the Valencian word for torch. Traditionally, carpenters celebrated the day of San Jose and the beginning of spring with a ritual burning of spare wood. Over the winter they would decorate the torches used and add them to the bonfire.

This simple rite of spring has become an international tourist attraction and it's an extraordinary sight to watch these painstakingly constructed models, some as tall as buildings, some big enough to walk inside, being strung with firecrackers and literally going up in smoke. The fallas are ignited in succession; the last to go up are the prize-winners. Each falla has a small model or ninot beside it, usually created by the children of the barrio. The ninots are exhibited in La Lonja before the Fiesta begins and the best is added to the Museu Faller; the rest are burned with the fallas. Finally, around 1am, the falla of the Plaza del Ayuntamiento goes up in flames, set off by a string of firecrackers, to be followed by the last thunderous firework display of the Fiesta.  

During the Fiesta, processions of falleros dressed in traditional costume and accompanied by bands carry flowers to the Plaza de la Virgen, where the flowers are massed to create the skirt of a huge statue of The Virgin. The daily Las Mascletas firecracker display takes place at 2 pm in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento and - for a reputedly unpunctual race - the Valencians observe the timing of this celebration religiously. Traffic comes to a standstill, streets are blocked and the whole city races to the central square for a 10-minute series of body-shuddering explosions. There are nightly fireworks, bullfights, paella contests in the street and chocolate y bunuelos stalls selling fresh donuts. On 20 March Valencia returns to normality - the streets are cleaned overnight and the planning begins for next year's Fallas.

And so, on 9 March we arrived in Valencia and found Devesa Gardens Campsite without too much difficulty; actually we had to ask only once and found that we were on the correct road. Interestingly we had passed the campsite in 2005 when we last visited the area, wild-camping just some 5 km away at El Palmar where we also took a boat-ride on the wetlands.

In our Internet investigations we had identified Devesa Gardens as the nearest campsite to Valencia. What a load of drivel as, taking the bus in, you pass no less than 4 other campsites which are both nearer to Valencia, on the direct bus route, and up to one third cheaper. Devesa Gardens at 25€/night for an unpowered site is anything but inexpensive, while Coll Vert just up the road is charging 16€/night including power. This probably explained why we were, for the majority of our stay, the only motorhome on-site. In addition, and despite the British, German and Italian flags flying roadside, this is a Spanish-only site and we met not one member of staff with any other linguistic ability. Furthermore, they carry no multi-language literature about the area or the attractions therein. A really poor show and if we hadn't paid half the cost up-front as a non-refundable booking fee (whilst in Australia) we should have left after one night, as did most of those who turned up during our 12 day stay. As you may infer we would not recommend the site and indeed had been concerned when we read the Internet feedback; believe me, it's justified.

At 15km from Valencia, Devesa is a 45-minute bus ride to town with the bus stopping in the vicinity of the Main Train Station for €1.85/pp single. The return journey can run to an hour if the bus route takes in El Palmar, although not all the buses divert to the village. Buses pass the campsite on the hour and leave Valencia similarly. Unfortunately for a society that usually only starts to socialise after 8 pm, the last bus from Valencia is 9 pm; then it's a taxi at ... go figure!

So that first day we rode the bus into town and located the Tourismo in the Town Hall Square. Actually the closest should have been at the train station but this seems to have closed. Anyway, the single member of staff was extremely helpful and we departed loaded down with brochures, maps, etc. Just what we had been looking for. Unfortunately we also discovered that The Museo, one of the Museums we wished to visit, was closed. Thinking about it logically, it would be, as the artisans would be making final adjustments/modifications before moving the Fallas figures to their sites and erecting them. Still, it was quite a disappointment. We took a brief stroll, buying some less than appetizing Churros from one of the innumerable roadside stalls that pop up at this time. Next time we'll expect to see them made before parting with our euros! Then it was back to camp at the end of an extremely full day.

On Saturday 10 March we were ready to start our sightseeing proper. Taking the bus in, we stopped just past the City of Arts and Sciences, crossed the road and walked back to the Museo Faller, a large plain building with a small front courtyard. One is pleased to note that there is still ample space for future collections of ninots, posters, photographs, etc. As it was both weekend and Fiesta entrance was free although, to our bitter disappointment, photography is not allowed and there are numerous CCTV cameras to ensure this is enforced. The Receptionist produced, on request, an excellent 15 page free booklet in English that gives the history of The Fallas, ninots, the methods of manufacture and the fallas posters. Later this same member of staff was to show us a DVD in English covering the protocol of The Fallas as it occurs today.

The Museum was truly excellent and the figures and other representations beautifully posed and signed. Unfortunately again nothing was in English, which we found really frustrating given our level of interest when measured against the 'herd' of school-children and others passing through the spectacle almost as in a foot-race. Still we thoroughly enjoyed the spectacle, not leaving until well past noon.

Then, having failed to catch a bus, it was a long and brisk walk via Reino de Valencia to the Town Hall Square. Now the Mascleta was not to occur until 2 pm but just as well that we arrived an hour early, as we should not have got anywhere near the wired enclosure (like a large tennis court) where the firecrackers are hung. It was as bad as La Tomatina, or the inaugural ceremony for The Running of the Bulls at Pamplona, with thousands crammed tighter and ever tighter waiting for the 10-minute cacophony of sound that is Mascleta; where the eardrums cry out in agony, the throat and nasal membranes close with the acrid fumes and the lower body vibrates to the vibrations of the pavement. No wonder it always starts on time!! 10 minutes and it was all over and the crowd applauded briefly in appreciation. There are but few visual effects, in essence just the smoke and hundreds if not thousands of small exploding rockets; it's really all about the volume of noise and the rhythms. A different firework company performs each day from now until the end of Fiesta on 19 March.

Although it had been our intention to proceed to The Museum of the Fallas Artists (Museo del Artista Fallero) for an in-depth explanation of how the fallas are constructed, it was not to be. At this time of year these artisans are fully occupied finishing off their creations and then transporting and erecting them in their pre-arranged sites ready for the 19th. In any event, the crowd took so long to disperse, the Tourismo had yet to re-open and without that we knew not where to catch the appropriate bus, taxis proved non-existent, and finally we were exhausted after our 75 minutes of crowd compression and vertical shuffle. Slowly, actually at a snail's pace, we made our way back to our bus stop, where we chatted to some motorhomers from the north of Germany. Also camping (but at Coll Vert), they proved engaging company while we waited for our bus back to Devesa Gardens Camp.

Monday is not a good day for tourism in Spain as most of the museums, galleries etc are closed. Still, we caught the 9 am bus in and straight to Tourismo. 10 minutes later we were at the appropriate bus stop, although we had to wait a good 25 minutes before EMT Bus No 62 showed up to take us north to the site of this year's exhibition of the ninots at Centro Comercial. This proved to be in a large tent-like structure just before El Corte Ingles (one of the Spanish department store chain). It was €2/pp to enter (€1 for over 65s and children) and certainly well worth the money. You each receive a ticket, on the back of which are 2 boxes such that you can vote for the ninot of your choice in both the Children's (Infantil) and Adult (Mayor) section. The entry portal takes you initially through those ninots produced by children and, as you leave, your ticket is scanned and your chosen number entered into their computer. The same occurs at the end of the Adult section and so visitors have input into the ninot chosen as this year's winner - and hence to be saved in the Museo Fallero and not consigned to the flames. The hundreds of ninots were an incredible sight and the artistry quite amazing. The colours, the designs, the chosen subjects, everything. We certainly took many photographs. As you left there was a DVD showing 'The Fallas 2011' and it made excellent if lengthy viewing.

From Centro Comercial it was on past the Botanic Gardens of Valencia, the oldest in Spain, and on through the Torres de Quart (the 15th century Gate in the old City Wall that faced Madrid and on which Napoleonic cannonball imprints are still visible) and into the oldest part of the City. A short walk down Calle Murillo brought us to The Silk Exchange and the Central Market (Mercado Central). Here we refreshed ourselves with Horchata and Chocolate con Farton (both local delicacies) and walked the serried rows of stalls wondering at the variety of goods for sale.

Valencia is well known for its Horchata - a drink made from Chufas (Tiger Nuts) served either liquid or granizada (slightly frozen). It is accompanied by Fartons (long, thin cakes). Legend has it that the name Horchata was coined by Jaune I, shortly after he captured Valencia. He was admiring the huerta one hot afternoon and an Arab girl offered him a drink so refreshing that he exclaimed, “Aixo es or, xata” (this is gold, girl).

On through streets already festooned with decorations and the Torres de Serranos (the 14th century Gate that faced Barcelona and the north and was once the main portal through the walls and into the city). Here we doubled back to the Plaza de la Virgen where the huge structure of this year's Virgin is already assembled. Later this week will begin the processions bringing flowers to the Virgin. These will then be woven into the wooden scaffolding until the Virgin's skirt is a mass of colourful blooms. We photographed the various aspects of the Cathedral and Tower, both unfortunately closed until 4 pm, and then returned through Plaza de la Reina to Plaza Ayuntamiento already largely denuded of people and litter after the 2 pm fireworks (Mascletas) which we had heard while in Plaza de la Virgen.

A leisurely descafeinado sobre con leche y madalena in a roadside cafe whilst we waited for the 5 pm bus back to camp, ready to start again tomorrow, although we shall come in after lunch to coincide with the opening of the Cathedral, Tower, ( the Miguelete), Silk Exchange, etc.

So on Tuesday 13 March it was into Valencia after lunch, given our belief that the Cathedral and its Tower didn't open until 4.30 pm. Wrong again, as the Cathedral was open when we reached it at about 2.30pm, probably because it was Fiesta time. Now we would categorically vote this Cathedral the most user-friendly in our memory. Yes, you can take photos (without flash); there were English-speaking attendants, an Audio-aide included in the ticket price and a good map on the back of the ticket, at €4.50 per adult, €3 for seniors and children.

The Cathedral, founded in the 13th century, embraces an eclectic combination of architectural styles, with the lavishly ornate Baroque main entrance leading to a largely Gothic-built interior. The Cathedral's most celebrated religious icon is a gold and agate chalice (the Santo Caliz), said to be the one used by Christ at the Last Supper - the Holy Grail itself (and you receive a brochure in English documenting its provenance). It's certainly old and, hidden away throughout the Dark Ages in a monastery in northern Aragon, it really did inspire many of the legends associated with the Grail. Other treasures include the 2 Goya paintings of the San Francisco chapel, as well as the contents of the Cathedral's Museum; again all included in the same entry price. Of note here is the 2300 kg tabernacle (Monstrance) made of gold, silver and precious stones donated by the Valencian people in an attempt to atone for the excesses of the Spanish Inquisition.

There are 13 chapels to view, 14 if you include the Chapel of the Holy Grail. In addition you have the soaring dome above the main altar, which now shows frescos of Renaissance Angels discovered during renovation. These are now fully restored and add rich colour to the entire scene. The Chapel of the Grail is truly excellent and one is able to sit quietly in contemplation listening to the commentary while viewing the Grail and the surrounding architecture.

From here Sandra travelled alone up the 206 (or 207) steps of the cathedral tower, known as the Miguelete (Little Michael). It's as high as its perimeter and costs €2. From the top you get expansive views over the city, although the bells are enclosed and impossible to photograph adequately. In past times these bells started the bells of all the other city churches and were used as a warning of invasion, etc. In addition flags were at one time hung from the tower to indicate shipping movements.

The Cathedral and Tower must not be missed and we were really impressed.

From the main door of the Cathedral it was just around the corner to Cripta de la Carcel de San Vicente Martir. The crypt of this Visigoth chapel was reputedly used as a prison for the 4th century martyr San Vicente. Although the crypt itself isn't particularly memorable, it's well worth taking in the 25-minute multimedia show that presents Valencia's history and the Saint's life and gory death. No reservation was necessary, although the harridan on duty was not prepared to accept that I was over 65 without production of documentation! Full adult charge €2, seniors and children €1. It was quaint but no photography is allowed. Next we visited La Almoina immediately north of the crypt and accessed via another plaza. Unfortunately it proved to be closed.

Then it was back to the Silk Exchange (aka La Lonja) next to Mercado Central which was closed at the time of our first visit. Charges as per the Crypt, although on this second visit one wondered if even the mediocre fee was worth paying. Gothic and sombre, the main focus of this UNESCO listed building is its superb main hall, with an elegant rib-vaulted ceiling supported by slender, spiralling columns. The hall is absolutely bare and you can see all you need to see while standing in the entry portal. Save yourself the €2! There is no literature in English and the DVD which plays episodically in an adjoining room is solely in Spanish.

Exiting La Lonja we took a moment to photograph the 2 weathervanes on the top of the Mercado Central opposite: a Swordfish and a Parrot (which we thought was a dragon).

Back to the bus, taking time to photograph the emerging fallas as we passed. Another extremely interesting if tiring day.

Wednesday 14 March was a day spent out of town, visiting the delights of the seaside town of El Perello just 10 minutes by bus down the coast. We had an excellent Spanish meal washed down with 2 carafes of Sangria blended to our own personal taste. Salads for starters, followed by sardines a la plancha and steamed mussels. The main was, of course, Valencian Paella served in a paella pan for 2. One could, and was encouraged to, quite literally eat straight from the pan. Dessert, then on to the beach followed by a walk through the narrow streets photographing yet more fallas and ninots. Not a pretty place by any mean, with serried rows of holiday apartment blocks bordering a delightful but quite narrow strip of sand. Ample opportunities for wild-camping at this time of year but it must be absolute HELL come Summer and especially in the Spanish holiday month of August. In spite of the 'recession' few properties seemed to be up for sale.

Our return journey was marred by an ignorant fascist, racist bus driver and the need to walk about 5 km in deep dusk to return to the campsite. Tomorrow we shall be enquiring as to the offices of the Bus Company and their Complaint Book. More on that later if anything positive ensues.