ANOTHER YEAR IN THE LIVES OF
THE WILSONS
To BULGARIA (to
house build) and TURKEY (to motorhome)
Brenda's Diaries
from September 2011 to June 2012
Click on the following links to see galleries of
images covering Brenda and Adrian's motorhome journey to and from Turkey,
pausing both outwards and inwards to work on the house they are rebuilding
above Harmanli in southeast Bulgaria.
Poland and the Tatry
Mountains: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w7eou441sk4tvq8/cWggomDuyV
Building and Wildlife in
Bulgaria: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zfa4p3kqweztilh/iwyjEk8hXc
Motorhoming in Turkey: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ieieskma365dyc6/IpQUAJaApb
After the Floods in Biser,
Bulgaria: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5haq101kdepyaq8/Y0rtDSz658
Greece, Italy, France and
Dover: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jrrdx9mfwo7k1k5/zMpcLMJi6W
This is Brenda's travel log:
September
2011
At last on the 18th September we were ready once
more for the next chapter of our life down in Bulgaria - to carry on with our
building until it became too cold and we felt we needed a break, and also to
tour Turkey once again for a few months. This time (in the same motorhome) we
were towing a trailer (built by Adrian) which held all of our windows for the
property in Bulgaria, an inflatable 2-person canoe, some big drums of
creosote, various tools and odds and ends. We drove down to our usual spot in
Essex (by the fishing lake) without any trouble and did the usual visiting of
family and laying of flowers on Mum and Dad's grave, etc. My cousin lent us a
car to use whilst there, so that was very acceptable.
Out through France, Belgium, Holland,
Germany
We booked our ferry tickets for 24th and left Essex the day before to drive
down to Dover, where we stayed on the sea front once more. An uneventful trip
across to Dunkirk the next day, then on through France, Belgium, Holland and
Germany. We had a glorious (quite hot) week's weather for travelling, which is
unheard of for us, but we still had to contend with certain unfortunate
incidents, one being our motorhome which lost power twice on the motorway. I
reminded Adrian that a similar thing had happened before, after we had run out
of LPG (it usually switches over to petrol automatically, but didn't on this
occasion). We wouldn't normally let it run dry but found that several of the
Service Stations in Germany did not sell LPG. Anyway, we stopped and waited a
while and were then able to continue our journey. Another problem was that we
had acquired a smallish leak (following leaks earlier in the year) on our
water pump, situated underneath our bed. Adrian said that he wouldn't be able
to sort it out until we arrived in Bulgaria and, as we have carpet under the
bed, this quickly became very soggy and, after a few days, quite
whiffy!
Poland
We had decided, this time around, to travel via Poland (currency Zloty, about
5 to the pound), which was all new territory for us. This would keep us away
from all 'go-boxes' and some of the vignettes too, plus we didn't have to pay a
penny for any toll roads. So after a VERY long detour (near Dresden, Germany),
caused by an accident which created absolute chaos as nobody knew which route
to take, we were straight into Poland (no checkpoint) using their excellent
roads and with plenty of LPG at very reasonable prices. We made our way down
to near Katowice where we found a place to stay, although it was very noisy!
Adrian lost his temper with the bloke in the ticket booth. The board at the
gate had said 'Camping 15 Zloty' and then we were told it was 25 Zloty as,
unbeknown to us, at the bottom of the board in VERY small writing it said '24
hrs - 25 Zloty', but you don't 'camp' during the daytime do you!? So we
decided to leave (about 30 mins later) but do you think he was going to let
us out without paying him some money! No, he was adamant and would not raise
the barrier! We had to find someone who could speak English to go and have
words with him! It was a most unpleasant experience of our short time with
the Poles.
The following day we drove along to Birkenau, Oswiecim (better known as
Auschwitz). Very grim, as you can imagine. You see the end of the line for so
many thousands of men, women and children, who were taken to the camps of mass
extermination. To see how they were kept and treated and the conditions they
had to endure before going to the gas chambers is quite incredible. They were
also tortured and experimented on. Some were starved and then either shot or
poisoned by lethal injection. How any 'humans' could carry out such barbaric
atrocities to his own kind is beyond comprehension. We also walked just up
the road to KL Auschwitz and looked in the buildings there too. It was
interesting to see the places that you only ever get to see on the TV and
Adrian recalled it all vividly from all of the films he had watched. This
was all free.
After leaving Auschwitz, we were no longer on their lovely Polish motorways
and the roads changed completely, more like we have become accustomed to
lately. It was much slower progress with narrow villages, towns and hills with
switchbacks.
Slovakia
We were soon into Slovakia (also new ground for us; currency Euros) and again
no checkpoint and no vignettes to purchase, as we stayed off the motorways. We
had our lunch overlooking the Tatry Mountains, which were very pretty. Lots of
ski-fields around here.
Hungary
From Slovakia into Hungary (a vignette here; currency Forints, about 350 to
the pound). We found a Tesco and bought some bottled water. They took Euros, as
we didn't have any Forints, but of course they gave us the change back in
Forints (which we had no further use for) and then later on we found we had
bought 24 bottles of sparkling water! Driving away from Tescos, we were finding
it difficult to find any access onto the motorway when a lorry passed us and
we hit wing mirrors! A loud bang and our mirror was shattered but the lorry
did not stop and we had to find a garage who could carry out the necessary
work. They had to go off somewhere else to get the glass cut, which all took
time, then replace and fit it. The bill came to 30 Euros or 10,000 Forints,
which seemed very reasonable and at least we were able to dispose of both our
Euros and Forints! They let us fill up our tank with fresh water and showed
us how to get back on the motorway too.
Romania
Hungary into Romania once again. From Oradea all the way to Deva, the roads
are particularly bad and I wrote in my diary NEVER to take that route again! In
fact I think we will give Romania a miss altogether in future. It was
painfully slow going as we could only travel at about 25-30 mph. Very narrow
too, with plenty of road works, and I couldn't help thinking about the broken
wing mirror of the previous day. The following day we went through the Targu
Jui gorge which was very pretty in the autumn colours, although this was
also slow and twisty with many road works.
Then after this, the road down to Drobeta-Turnu
Severin was 'hell on earth' and even worse than the day before, if that was at
all possible! So we decided to change our route, as we couldn't chance the
road to Craiova. So we drove to Calafat to get the ferry once more (even
though we knew it would be very expensive) and this road was excellent! You
just never can tell, as some of the smaller roads are better quality than
the main ones. We lost power in the motorhome twice and then one of my
tooth crowns fell out. We weren't doing very well that day!
We had hoped that the new bridge over the Danube
(from Romania into Bulgaria) would be finished but it wasn't and we had a long
wait before we could board the ferry, in very hot weather. The ferry, which we
said we would never use again, cost us 114 Euro for motorhome and trailer! It
only takes 20 minutes but at least this time we had no trouble getting on or
off the ferry (unlike last time), as we took it very, very slowly!
Bulgaria
So into Bulgaria, where most of the roads that day were reasonable with the
exception of the town of Vratsa, which was awful, as it was last time. When we
stopped for lunch, a prostitute appeared from nowhere (out of the woods) in a
thong and top which didn't even cover her backside. She paraded up and down
for some time, until the police came along and took her away! We arrived in
Biser after a long drive in the dark at 8.30pm. We had made it once
more!
October 2011
On Biser campsite (Sakar Hills) the following morning, we spoke to an English
couple and their son who had just arrived. They had a large 33-ft Fleetwood
Flair, which they had only recently purchased, and also a van. They had sold
everything at home and were looking to buy property in Bulgaria. They brought
with them a dog, a cat and a parrot and had never done anything like it
before! They offered us a lift up to our place, which we accepted, to get our
car going as it had been standing since the end of April, although we did
have to attach jump leads to our car to get it started.
Our place was more overgrown than we had expected and our grapes had not done
very well but at least everything was just as we had left it. Well, when I say
that, I mean that no-one had interfered with our place at all but we were
rather disappointed that the plastic sheeting we had put over our ground floor
had completely disintegrated in the wet and the heat, leaving the floor soggy
and spongy! We drove our car back down to Biser, where we met up with Matt,
Shirley and Martin who asked us out to lunch, along with the newcomers, Lee
and Collett. After lunch Adrian drove our motorhome up to our property, with
me following in the car. Adrian was stopped by the police again but as soon
as they realised we were English they were not interested and so we carried
on. Our lane had been made up with tarmac whilst we had been away, which was
very nice and we had no real problems getting our motorhome up the hill and
down our lane.
Our first week was really too hot for building work and we had the added
nuisance of flies (I put my Aussie head net on!) My job was cutting down the
jungle in our garden and up the path to our property and some of the grasses
were about 8 ft tall. It was the sort of very dry grass with seed pods that
insist on sticking to you (and into you) like there was no tomorrow! It took me
ages picking them out of my clothes and shoes/shoe laces afterwards. They were
a real pain, just so prickly! This seems to be where the praying mantis like
to camouflage themselves though and I came across 4 different types. I
suppose really our wild garden was the ideal place for wildlife, as you will
read.
The weather soon all changed: first we had about a week of rain which came at
just the wrong time as we had started building (a wooden construction) and did
not know how to keep it watertight. Nearly all of the next 3 months were far
too cold. This is just what we had hoped to escape from in the UK! However, we
couldn't really complain as, apart from the first couple of weeks, we didn't
have a drop of rain, although the downside to this is that our well (our only
source of water) was not filling up as expected and towards the end of our time
there we were getting quite concerned. We shall just have to see what happens
when we get back, after the winter! In fact the water was our first problem,
as our pump wouldn't work and Adrian was finding it difficult to find the
reason why. It was a good job we had filled up at the campsite before we
left.
We found a family of mice nesting in the car (after
having used it) under the back seat, which had been left folded down whilst
away. Adrian put most of them out but one scuttled away, so we didn't really
know if he/she would re-appear at any time in the future!
I picked what there was of our 3 different types of grapes and crushed most
of them in a bit of a misguided effort to make wine. The trouble was, we had
been told different methods, but I bottled what I got (which wasn't a lot) and
left it. I think it will have to be method number 2 next time! Anyway, I tried
and we may not keep the vines when we get round to sorting out the garden, as
we are not here to tend and look after them properly!
Adrian managed to sort something out with our water pump, which he moved into
a little shed, put an outside tap on it and extended the hose so it reached our
motorhome at the bottom of the garden so I didn't have to keep filling up our
barrels. He also managed to fix the leak under our bed and make a good
step/platform for us outside the motorhome, so we were not stepping out into
mud all the time!
I made it to the dentist and, without an appointment, had my crown cemented
back in, there and then, for just 10 Leva (about £4). Job done.
On 7th October work commenced on our property. Adrian likes to do everything
himself and that includes all the fetching and carrying too but our car had
been letting us down recently and refusing to start! There were several
occasions on which I had to push while Adrian bump-started it. It's an old
'banger' but we are not about to go out and buy a new one, as it is left in
Bulgaria for months at a time and we are hoping it will tide us over for a
while longer yet!
The solar panels which Adrian had made were doing a grand job (when the sun
shone, of course) and our trailer has been worth its weight in gold with all
the wood and other items which have had to be transported from town, up the
hill and down our little lane! The good thing about building a wooden
construction is that you get to see it growing very quickly right in front of
your eyes, day by day.
I spent weeks fighting with the jungle that is to be our garden. Our strimmer
was no match for the strong, very tall grasses and weeds, so I tackled it all
armed only with a pair of shears and a fork for raking it all together. I had
six huge bonfires later on. It was all tinder dry and went like a rocket.
Although we had no rain for nearly 8 weeks (and quite a lot of sunshine), it
was much colder than we had anticipated. We worked non-stop, 7 days a week for
nearly 3 months, by which time we were more than ready for rest and relaxation
and some warmer weather (we hoped).
I had my 60th birthday there and Adrian had arranged a complete surprise for
me with three and a half hours of pampering - a complete body massage, a face
massage, pedicure and manicure with a freehand painted fancy design on some of
my fingers and toes. This was extremely good value for money, something I had
never experienced before, but I would definitely go back for a repeat session
and also recommend it to anyone and everyone.
During the next couple of weeks, Adrian worked very hard erecting the shell
of our building. We didn't have any actual plans drawn up but instead Adrian
basically improvised as he went along. Using the existing base, we were
intending either to extend slightly further out at the back or to have an
upstairs. We decided on the latter. However, all our previous builds had been
single storey and, as we had already raised the ground floor level, it was
quite a challenging task for Adrian to undertake, especially as we are on a
hill, but this just seems to make him more determined.
So the walls went up and the windows were put in place. The roof trusses
obviously were more difficult, as were the heavy sheets of building board and
the barge/fascia/soffit boards. These had to be tied with rope and hoisted up
with my help. Our ladder was not long enough, so Adrian had to rope 2 (fully
extended) ladders together, which were bending and swaying. I was once again
holding my breath! I was glad when later on he had built the balcony, so at
least he could stand his ladder on that, for the front anyway. We did not know
when the next lot of rain was likely to arrive, so everything had to be done
as soon as possible in order to make everything as waterproof as we could by
covering the walls and roof with a waterproof breathable membrane.
For a couple of days we had a small fox, with a distinctive white tip on his
tail, wandering around our garden (in the daytime) and he didn't seem the
slightest bit worried by us. We watched him rummaging around in next door's
grapevines with what appeared to be a dead cat. Whether he had killed it or not
we did not know but he spent some time digging various holes and burying each
limb and even the head in different places! It was all quite a strange sight
to see but fascinating to watch our wildlife there. Does he remember where he
has buried them when he decides to return again, though!
Other creatures we are not sure we want to get used to are the snakes and
believe me we do get quite a few! One quite big one that I almost tripped over
slithered his way into our cellar and there wasn't much we could do about
that. Then Adrian saw one the next day, which I think was the same one.
Having looked on the internet I think it MAY have been a legless (perhaps it
had been supping the fermented grapes) glass lizard, which to all intents
and purposes, and certainly to the untrained eye, looks the same as a
snake! A few weeks later we had our next encounter with a reptile. We had a
visit from another (different) pretty big snake. I was just getting up the
step ladder when I saw it below and alerted Adrian to look. It also seemed
to be heading for the cellar, so Adrian slammed the door shut and managed
to get it on a long stick and carry it away and over next door's
grapevines. I have no idea why it was out and about, as it was far too
cold and therefore it was quite docile. However, would you believe, the
very next day Adrian was also just going up his ladder when he spotted the
same snake round the bottom of the ladder with its head in a hole. So this
time he decided to kill it, as we don't really want it turning up and
surprising us anywhere and everywhere. In a way it's a pity, as it was
probably harmless (there are very few in Bulgaria that are poisonous,
although it was having a jolly good hiss at us) and we do like to see the
wildlife, but there you go, you can't afford to take too many chances. At
this time of year we don't see or hear the nightingales or the scops owls.
They don't arrive until the springtime.
November 2011
However, back to the work in progress. We were not able to get 'feather edge'
wood for the exterior finish to the building, which Adrian had hoped to use,
but I can't see any difference in the weather-boarding wood he used in the end
anyway. We had originally thought of a log cabin but the logs in Bulgaria were
too small and Adrian was not sure that he could trust them for cutting evenly
down the middle either. It's very difficult for Adrian to ask for what he
wants, when they don't understand and neither do we! He mixed the old oil
(from an oil change) with the creosote and used this as protection on the
wood. I can't stand the smell personally and it gets into literally
everything but he says it's the only substance that does the job properly!
I painted all of the brick pillars supporting our property with a black
bitumus paint, whilst Adrian made and hung 2 very strong, heavy doors - the
front and back. Another of my jobs was to saw up and line all the walls and
ceilings with fibreglass insulation and partially nail it into place, to keep
it from falling out. Adrian did the underneath of our property (with
fibreglass) and laid our wooden flooring upstairs and then also built the
internal walls. I stained our doors inside and out, and that's apart from all
the constant sweeping and clearing up of course! We then bought plasterboard,
wiring, sockets, switches and various fittings which, compared to England,
we found to be very very cheap. Lots of things are different here and not
as Adrian knows, so I think he will have lots of 'fun' wiring up and also
when we come to do the plumbing jobs too!
Before our rest in Turkey, we managed to plasterboard and wire up all of the
front bedroom and most of the back one too and Adrian made and fixed in place
his own skirting boards and architrave, as they don't seem to use or sell it
round here, and then he made a start on the downstairs. I stained the ceilings,
although did not quite complete the job as we ran out of stain. I shall finish
the job when we get back in the spring, when I shall also varnish the same.
Adrian boarded all the windows up, ready for us to go away. The roofing will
have to wait until we get back too, as this is going to be a more difficult
time-consuming job. He doesn't think we should use the tiles that we saved, as
they will probably be too heavy for our wooden-framed construction (which will
be a pity), but plans to use shingle tiles which he has never used before.
Added problems are the height of the building, the sloping grounds and the
pitch of the roof. So he needs time to get organised for this.
December 2011
So after nearly 3 months of continuous work, and after securing our property
as best we could (with car and trailer too), we were able to drive away for the
next chapter of our 9 month journey. We hoped all would be OK while we were
away and that the rain, snow and sun did not damage anything too much!
Turkey
Leaving Bulgaria, we entered into Turkey (via
Greece), spending our first night at the little port/harbour of Gallipoli
(Gelibolu), not having been before. The following day, after visiting the town
where we changed some of our Sterling into Lire (at the Jeweller's) and having
parted with 40 Lire for the ferry from Gallipoli over to Lapseki, we made our
way down to Canakkale for lunch and also to re-stock our supplies at the big
superstore of Kipa, which you find in most big towns/cities. We spent that
night beside the water on the front at Kucukkuyu.
We continued south, stopping briefly at Aliaga
(where we have stayed overnight once before) for a cuppa and on round Izmir. We
didn't remember from last year what we had to do for a motorway card and, as
no ticket was issued and no-one was at any of the kiosks, we pressed the
button for assistance but nobody came (good job it wasn't an emergency)!
There were no barriers down, so in the end we drove on but we had to spend
the night on a motorway service station and were quite concerned about
exiting the motorway the next day. However, on the Selcuk turnoff we stopped
before the toll gates at a building to inform them that we were not in
possession of a card but it seems that that was quite normal and you just
purchase a 20 Lire card wherever you can, to use on their motorway as and
when. I really do wish they would make it much clearer what you are
supposed to do, as it would have saved us so much worry!
Continuing south past Efesus, round Kusadasi, Soke and Didim, we were delayed
for ages where they were building a new road (beside Lake Bafa). Our place in
the long stationary queue of traffic just happened to be by a digger who was
digging high up on a bank. I was watching closely, as I didn't fancy any of the
big boulders he was rolling around coming down anywhere near us. Bits of
debris were flying our way and then a piece hit the side of the van, so we
thought enough was enough and moved over to the other side of the road.
Eventually they let us all through, but it wasn't our day as the place we had
picked to stay at Gulluk port was no good at all and the roads were awful
from hundreds of lorries going to and from a quarry.
So we then had to carry on to Bodrum, a big, busy place that we had not
visited before and in the meantime it had become dark. We drove along the
peninsula but could not find anywhere to stop and basically got completely
lost! Some of the weird places we have ended up staying have been quite
incredible, especially when you don't even know where you are, how you got
there, or how you will get out again! In the morning we found ourselves to be
by the sea at Yalikavak which looked a nice place but we had nothing but rain
and it was cold all day. Indeed we had had plenty of rain in recent days
and, although we didn't know then, we had plenty more of the same yet to
come! We did find our way out fairly easily though.
On to Milas and Mugla and down to Gokova, where we had stayed once before,
but of course in the rain nowhere looks the same and it was hard to recognise
it as the same place as last year when we sat on the beach. Everywhere was
flooded, with the river a very dirty brown. We stayed one night though and we
also put up our Christmas decorations and a little tree with lights on the
dashboard. It poured all night and most of the day, with thunder too. So on to
Marmaris, where at least the new road had been completed and was good and we
were actually stopped for a tree that was being felled (unlike last February
when one nearly fell on us). We stopped here for a visit to a Kipa store
again and then decided we would make our way along a long peninsula to
Datca, another new place to us. It wasn't doing the place justice (quite a
nice big town) in the pouring rain and we could not find anywhere to park up
so we drove along to a very tiny ferryboat harbour, which only operates in
the summer, and found ourselves a very quiet place which was fine for the
night.
Back at Datca we had a look around; there was a big market on. We continued
to look for somewhere we could stay over Christmas and managed somehow to find
a back way down to the beach. Whilst trying to manoeuvre ourselves into place,
however, we managed to get well and truly stuck in the mud! We thought well,
this is going to be a different sort of Xmas. It was 24th December! Of course
the more we tried, the deeper we became. So off I trotted, bucket in hand, to
fill it with large stones from the beach (to throw under the wheels) whilst
Adrian donned the wellies, got the spade out and started digging. We honestly
didn't think we were going to get ourselves out of this one – well not without
a tractor or something to tow us - but eventually managed to reverse our way
out of the mud. Actually we found it to be a good, quiet place for a couple
of nights and so we stayed, right on the water's edge. I'm sure the fishermen
laughed at the sight of us, all lit up with fairy lights, as of course they
do not celebrate Christmas, but at least we were spared all the hype we are
force-fed at home! We did manage some sunshine for a few days, although it was
cold, but in the motorhome (until the sun went down) it was lovely and warm
and cosy. Adrian cooked us a nice Christmas Day dinner followed by my own
homemade Christmas pudding, which I had made in Bulgaria and cooked on our
Kamena. In the afternoon Adrian went to help out a bloke (who spoke good
English), who also got his van (Sprinter) stuck in the mud. Between them
they dug him out.
After Datca we drove along the other peninsula to Selimiye, where we had
stayed last year January. The amount of stray dogs in Turkey is quite
incredible and we find it to be a big problem. It was no exception there! We
stayed one night and continued along to Bozburun, where we had also been last
year, but we realised that we hadn't seen all there was to see and it's
actually a lovely quiet little place. A quaint village, attractive little bays
and where lots of yachts and wooden boats were being built. Some were huge
and Adrian was trying to figure out just how they manage to get them out and
launch them!
Anyway we found our park up place, INSIDE an old football pitch which was
right beside the water, and we had our very own little 'beach'! Can't be bad.
We had a walk here along a hilly track, where we saw more boats in dry dock at
another bay. Where we filled up with water, along the front, we came across a
group of people who had obviously just killed a goat. It was hanging on a rope
with its head lying on the ground and they were proceeding to skin it. It
wasn't a very pleasant sight to see but we didn't hang around to watch them
disembowel it! After lunch, as we had a lovely warm day, we decided to use our
inflatable canoe for the first time. So Adrian pumped up the canoe, blew up
and assembled his seat and went for his first little paddle around the bay
(with a backdrop of the mosque, village and harbour) to try it out and see
how it performed. He thought it was easy to use but it wasn't very good at
tracking in a straight line. When he came back he put my seat in and we both
went out together. I had a little paddle too - but think I need more
practice! We enjoyed it anyway and when we got back we were actually able to
sit outside for a while.
When we left Bozburun (back past Selimiye) we wanted to look at Turgut. We
nearly got stuck in mud again, trying to get down to the beach, so decided to
go a different way out, only to find our way blocked by a burst water main and
having to back up a narrow road quite a long way, and then having to go back
the way we came after all, through the mud yet again! Oh well, we made it
anyway!
On to Koycegiz, one of our favourite lakes. Now here we had a bit of a
nightmare/adventure (maybe not adventure at the time), which could easily have
turned out to be a disaster! The first 2 days we were there it rained solidly,
day and night, and was very cold. We stayed in the car park. There wasn't
much we could do, other than go round the shops and get wet. I did some much
needed chores and cleaned some of my cupboards out while Adrian proceeded to
get bored! New Year's Eve was a complete wash out. We didn't plan to do much
but it was different from last year, when we had watched the fireworks over
Harmanli (Bulgaria) from our 'home' on the hill. It was so noisy in the 'van
(with the rain) that you couldn't hear anything anyway. After that bout of
rain we moved the van up to our usual spot by the lake edge, where we spent
well over a week last year.
January 2012
The next 3 days were beautiful. We took our bikes off the back and cycled to
the next village along, towards the mud/thermal baths. Although a very tiny
village, there is a big new mosque being built there with 2 minarets. When we
got back I collected wood for a fire and in the evening we roasted chestnuts
on it. The following day was warm enough to sit outside and we took our canoe
out on the lake. I was thinking (and wrote in my diary) that the lake got
better and better. The water was so still and glassy. No two days look the
same and we had some beautiful sunsets. We also cycled across the by-pass
and up into the hills and round. We tried to find the liquid amber trees
again but couldn't quite remember where they were, so we gave up. It was a
lovely ride with lovely views over the lake. We saw a gorge but thought we
would return the next day. We took the canoe out again in the afternoon
together, and also on my own. It was glorious, and just so peaceful. We
watched a small bat flying low around the reeds (in the daytime) and there
were loads of kingfishers there, which we watched for ages (right outside
our window), diving in and out for fish. A selection of different birds by
the lake included egrets, various warblers, stone chats, goldfinches, grebes
and many others.
The next day we went back on our bikes again to the gorge. When we couldn't
cycle any further, we left our bikes and walked. We had to cross a couple of
streams but we didn't get particularly far as there had been a landslide
recently, which had left lots of loose shale and it had made it dangerous. Some
huge boulders looked likely to come down at any time, so we made a hasty exit
and made our way back just as it started to rain.
On the Friday (6th Jan) it was evil weather with heavy rain all day and it
became very cold. We were getting rather disillusioned, as last year (in Feb)
we had had such good weather and temperatures that were so good we had been
able to swim, sunbathe and wear shorts during the day. Apparently it was the
rainy season! We watched as thousands of shags flew over and settled on the
lake for a while. They looked like a swirling, black cloud in the sky and upon
the lake, like an oil slick. By the early evening it had become very windy,
with a big storm of thunder, lightning, heavy rain and a very choppy lake. You
would have thought we were by the sea if you didn't know different. We could
hardly believe we were at the same place as the previous few days!
At 12.30 am we both got up as we could not sleep with all the noise of the
storm, the rain, the water and wind and we really didn't like the look of the
lake with 'waves' which appeared to be getting closer, so we decided we would
have to go somewhere else. Now, we just happened to have our canoe (blown
up), our bikes (off the back) and our generator (out of its locker, as it had
been hot). We never leave things out when we are wild camping but of course,
as happens, on this occasion we did ... so in the dark, in pouring rain and
with thunder and lightning, poor Adrian had to somehow clear everything away
before we could move! We moved (when we got off the soggy grass) into a car
park (where we had been before) by the little harbour and tried to get some
sleep, which was difficult, especially as there were quite a few big trees
there and bits kept falling off onto our roof. The boats in the harbour were
bobbing around furiously! In the morning, we could see one of the boats
smashed and sunk and another damaged. The water was very high and lapping
the promenade and still rising.
So on went the wellies and we went out along the front to see the damage and
to walk back to the place by the lake and we realised it had been a good job we
had moved! Several of the houses had flooded homes and gardens. Everyone was
coming down to look, with reporters and camera men. We do like to 'people
watch' and believe me we have seen some funny sights during our travels.
People do the most peculiar things. After lunch, we again went to have
another look and found the flooding to be even worse. It was creeping up
several roads and we could no longer walk along the front, as it was too
deep and dangerous with some of the manhole covers missing, leaving huge
holes with swirling waters. We saw that if we had still been by the lake,
we would not have been able to get out at that point!
It continued to thunder with lightning and after our tea we became concerned
that the car park we were now staying on would also flood overnight, so we made
the decision to move yet again, although we weren't really sure which roads we
could use because of the flooding, our size and cars parked blocking our
route! In the end we were just parked-up on the side of the road but away
from the water, so we hoped we would be able to relax and get some sleep but
also knowing that we would have to leave Koycegiz the next day as there was
nowhere else for us to go (the campsite would also have been flooded) and
it just would not stop raining! It was quite incredible to think that a few
days ago we had been canoeing on a calm, serene lake and now we were having
to leave, wondering if it would ever be quite the same again.
After a good night's sleep and waking up to sunshine again, we drove back
down to the car park to have another look before we left. Once again we
realised we had done the right thing, as the water had come in even further
overnight and had we stayed it would have been lapping round our wheels! On
went the wellies for one last look. More roads had been affected. Lots of
houses were flooded, the restaurants on the beach front flooded and we
couldn't get anywhere near the spot by the lake where we had originally
stayed. The water was very nearly in the mosque too, at that time, and still
seemed to be rising, but we left Koycegiz to struggle on with its own
misfortunes whilst we drove along to the Dalyan river, which was also very
high and lapping the pavements.
We had hoped to canoe on the river but obviously not a good idea in those
conditions. The stray dogs in Dalyan are an absolute menace! They never seem to
stop barking. We then moved on to the Iztuzu turtle beach, where we had been
allowed to stay last year. Adrian wanted to get the canoe out and see if it
was OK since the storm. Well it wasn't OK, as it had been hurriedly stuffed
into the locker and had touched on our hot jenny, which had damaged it
considerably. However, Adrian managed to patch it up (at least until we got
home) and we were able to take it out on the Dalyan river, which flows into
the sea there. I was glad we managed a little paddle in the canoe there, as
just as we had started our dinner, we were told that we could not stay
overnight as it was considered too dangerous, with all the storms/rain still
around. So we hurriedly put everything away again, as he wanted to close the
barriers. Luckily, Adrian had already deflated and packed away our canoe. So
off we went and ended up on a roadside picnic place but it turned out to be a
good spot by the water, with good views, no dogs, no wailing, not much
traffic and above all no disturbances!
The next day we were back to rain all day again and very cold too. We drove
through Ortaca and on to Gocek. Here we decided to get some welding done on our
chassis, as it was a job that got overlooked during our time at home last year
and Adrian was having to clamp the chassis together but this kept coming loose
and was making an awful grinding noise. It was welded there and then at a very
reasonable price.
On to Fethiye, where we managed to stock up in Kipa once more, and then down
the very steep hill to Oludeniz, one of my favourite places. We were very
disappointed to find that the place where we had stayed along the prom last
year was all cordoned off to any and all traffic. We did wonder if the English
couple who stayed there for 3 months (last year) had any bearing on this at
all. Some people spoil things for everyone else! We didn't know where else to
go but went along to the PTT (post office) and spoke to them and were
informed that it was OK to park in their car park, which overlooks the water
anyway. So this we did and we also had water and a WC. We did enquire about
campsites here (2 were open) and one was 25 TL per night, the other 35 TL.
We made the decision to stay put.
In the evening we walked along the front, where we could hear music. We saw a
young man sitting on the wall playing some sort of an instrument (something
like a xylophone, only with strings). We got chatting and he told us it was a
very old Ottoman instrument which he had made. He had missed a bus to take
him to Kabak and would have to wait until the morning, so meanwhile he was
intending to camp on the beach. It was very cold but this didn't seem to
bother him and that's what he did.
The next day we cycled along to the end of the blue lagoon and saw where we
would be able to launch our canoe. We also cycled along in the opposite
direction to Belcegiz. The day after we again cycled down to the end of the
lagoon, this time carrying our canoe, paddles, pump and equipment (on bikes)!
After inflating the canoe we (mostly Adrian) paddled all the way round the
blue lagoon and round to where it meets the sea in the bay of Oludeniz. We
managed to get up really close to a pair of shags on a rock, before they
took flight. I had another paddle on my own here too and it was really
lovely.
When we arrived back (at the PTT) we bumped into a couple that Margaret and
Barry had told us about, Helen and David Homewood. They have lived in France
for many, many years now. We had just been wondering when we would come into
contact with them. They parked their camper in with us. They also have their
travel accounts on Magbaz's website (www.magbaztravels.com).
The following day they had apparently contacted a couple who rent a place
nearby and asked them to visit, so we all met up for coffee. It turned out to
be Maureen and Don Madge, who also appear on Magbaz's website and who are
very long-term, (40 years) extensive travellers (and who we had once
contacted ourselves for info). They told us that they were nearing their
80's!
We had another paddle around the lagoon in our canoe
again the next day but this time we drove down to the launch place first
(instead of cycling). That evening Helen and David came round for a drink and a
chat before they left to go east, and we took all of our washing into Ovacik
to be laundered. They give an excellent service there and it is always at a
very reasonable price - washed, dried (can be ironed) and meticulously folded
for 10 TL per load!
We then drove down to Gemiler beach and island,
where we could have stayed for a small fee. The island is covered in ruins and
we had hoped to canoe over to it but were concerned that the water might have
been too rough when we got out away from the bay. It's a pretty place but we
decided to go back to Oludeniz for another night.
The following day we made up some lunch, drove to the end of the lagoon again
and walked to the deserted village of Kayakoy, where we had been before, by
road, but not over the mountains. The path was quite well marked but it was
hard going. We hadn't trekked so far in ages. It took us 4 hours in all, with
lunch break and a quick look around too. We did however have stunning views
over Oludeniz, Belcekiz, the lagoon, Gemiler beach and island and lots of
other islands too. The path comes into Kayakoy above the village and so we
were able to get into it free and, as we had been before, we only went down
to the 17th century High Church, which would have once been very pretty.
Lovely blue colours in the mosaic flooring and patterns made with tiny, tiny
flintstones. We sat overlooking the ruins enjoying our picnic lunch. That
night we spent on a large empty car park in Ovacik (quite high up) but boy
was it cold up there. In the morning Adrian said that the water fountains
had frozen!
Next stop was Tlos. Somewhere we had not visited before. It was also quite
high there with lots of snow on the mountains and it was chilly. We had a good
look round at all the ruins, which as usual were in a beautiful setting, with
lovely views out to sea. Leaving there we stopped briefly at Saklikent gorge
for a cup of tea (we had been before but weren't impressed), before going on
to Kalkan once again. The skin diver (with his harpoon) was there again (as
last year) and we parked in the same place, where Adrian also did some
fishing. Lovely spot for sunsets. It was warm enough that day to get my sunbed
out and we parked ourselves in the little secluded cove. It was pure heaven
in the sun, listening to the crashing of the waves but which became even
more ferocious the next day, with the cove being really battered by the waves
and spray landing over on the other side of the lane! That evening (round
our camp fire) we watched countless young men, parking up and bringing out
the Efes (beer). It doesn't seem to matter what time of day it is, this is
what they do and seem to treat the beer as a 'soft' drink. When finished
they leave all their rubbish, including glass bottles, strewn around or
they just lob the bottles into the sea! After a weekend there was quite a
collection of bottles and then we saw a bloke collecting them all up.
Whether he takes them back to the shop and gets money back on them, we
don't know!
On to Ucagiz, where I had hoped to be able to take our canoe out again. We
thought it would have been too far to try to canoe over the sunken city of
Kekova but we could probably have taken it round to Kalekoy and round the
sunken tomb. Alas this was not to be, as the weather was not kind to us. I
don't know whether it has been unusual this winter but I do know that it was
very different last year with very little rain and much warmer temperatures
and I think we have seen enough rain and floods to last us a lifetime!! We
paid our 10 TL for use of car park and then had to sit it out. All night it
rained (with huge thunder claps) and didn't look promising in the morning
either. Water was gushing off the mountains, down the road and into the
harbour. We didn't hang around, but first we had to drive through the flood
in order to make our way out. We looked to see if Helen and David were still
camping at Cayzagi beach but there was no sign of them so we carried on,
stopping at Finike for our lunch. Through the big, modern town of Kumluca and
on down to Cirali beach once again. This was the third time we had been
there and each time we have seen dramatic scenery with dramatic weather to
match. This time was to be no different with yet more thunderstorms and we
were to be charged 10 TL for the privilege, although last year was free. We
would have liked to canoe round from the beach, up the river mouth into
Olympos, but there was no chance of that so we went to have a look at the
river (where we had crossed over last year - I had paddled) but were very
disappointed to see that there would be no way over there either as it was
far too deep and fast!
So another rather hasty exit and on to rainy Side and the car park
overlooking the sea. The next day was better, with plenty of sunshine and no
rain! We walked along the promenade to the shops. There are so many of them but
you have to keep your head down or you get collared! We thought we couldn't go
to Turkey without sampling their Turkish Delight, so we went in and the bloke
put a mixture of them, including nutty almond ones, in a small box for which
he charged 30 TL. However, we think he must have seen us coming, as apart
from being expensive, none of it was very nice! Oh well, we'll know for next
time!! We then walked around much of the ruins, which are spread out over
quite a large area. After our lunch we drove up to Manavgat hoping to see
the waterfall, but the river had flooded and that was all we saw. What a
year for floods! Not far from there were some ruins at Seleukeia in
Pamphylia. The road up the hillside became increasingly worse and as usual
we nearly came unstuck, so we had to reverse back down a little way and
managed to turn around and park, but after this the rest of the way was all
on foot. Anyway when we did get there we saw a large market hall and bath
house, and many other buildings, all on a hillside, among the pine trees,
overlooking the sea. At least it was worth the effort.
Side was as far east as we decided to go this time and so from there onwards
we started tracking west again. It was a gorgeous day and I had wanted to spend
the weekend at the Koprulu Kanyon once again, as we had liked it so much last
year. It still lived up to my expectations and we really enjoyed our time there
but it wasn't quite like last year because of the amount of rain they had had.
The river wasn't quite the colour it had been before and the weather wasn't
very warm either! No blossom or spring flowers just yet. We came to a section
where there had been a landslide recently and we did not think we could get
through. We needed to move over to a sheer drop (my side) with a fast flowing
river below. A truck came along and we were going to back up and let him go
but he just kept saying 'go on', 'go on'! It's all very well for other
people, they are not driving our motorhome and we are even slightly wider
than coaches. So I got out to see exactly where the wheels would come,
without scraping the van with the huge rocks and bolders on the other side.
We just about made it! Anyway when we arrived at the canyon we decided to
try and drive up to the Selge ruins. So we climbed and climbed (with
hairpin bends), in ever more dramatic scenery, reminiscent I thought, of
Skippers Canyon in NZ. Snow capped mountains, massive boulder and rock
formations, a valley of Cypress trees and the river below. Just before we
got there, we had to open a gate, presumably to keep the animals in and as
we climbed the last section we saw children waving frantically. By the
time we had parked and got out, there were women and children all over us,
trying to get money out of us and in return be our guides! Adrian gave the
young lads a couple of Lire to look after our van but the women insisted
on escorting us to the ruins and trying to tell us about them in
well-rehearsed English phrases. They started to take items out of their
bags but Adrian very firmly told them 'No'. They insisted they had no
money! Eventually we were left on our own to wander around the huge
theatre. It had all been worth it - a fabulous theatre, with fabulous
views over the fertile valley and backed by snow-capped mountains. It was
beautiful, peaceful and quiet, but cold!
Afterwards we drove back down as far as the old Ottoman Bridge over the
canyon, where we found a place suitable to park up beside the raging river,
which we were able to listen to over the next 2 nights and it was lovely and
quiet! We were glad we had driven up to Selge (Altinkaya), as the following day
we tried to hike there, by means of parts of an old Roman road but after about
an hour and down by the river we found that there was no way we would be able
to cross the river. You could see how badly flooded it had recently been,
with trees and litter everywhere. Some huge logs were actually lodged high up
in other trees! So where the path went to, we didn't know but it is going to
take a long time to reinstate a way across again. Well we had our picnic
lunch on the rocks there and walked back. We had walked for three and a half
hours anyway, so we had had a good bit of exercise! On the way back, we
witnessed the phenomenon of lots of water gushing out of and under the
rocks and cliff face into the canyon, which was creating waterfalls, along
a huge section of the river. It was quite strange to see! When we got back,
later in the afternoon, Adrian got his line out again for a spot of
fishing, but alas wasn't able to catch our dinner again, not just yet
anyway!
February 2012
On to Aspendos but it was cold and raining a little
at this time and the chap there wanted 10 TL to park our motor and another 15
TL each for entry, so we didn't stop. We had then intended going down to Lara
beach, 10 km east of Antalya, but we got a bit lost in the city and maybe
should have turned off towards Havilman airport but didn't. Not having
satellite navigation, it became difficult and so we just wanted to get out of
the city, which we did and continued on to the next place of interest which
was Termessos.
Just before we arrived we had chatted to an English-speaking Turk, who
informed us that we would be able to free park at Termessos overnight in order
that we would then have a whole day looking round the ruins, but they would
NOT let us stay and although we found a 'campsite' nearby, they were charging
20 TL per night and so we declined. We went along to the Karain caves, where
we had been able to stay last year, but once again they would not let us
stay there either. So in the end we parked up beside the local football
pitch without any problems (apart from a very loud mosque too close for
comfort)!
So back to Termessos in the morning. We weren't too sure what the weather's
intentions were but thought we would go for it and hope it didn't rain, as we
knew there would be a lot of walking to do. We drove to the gates of the
National Park where we were charged 10 TL (in total), which we both considered
to be excellent value for money. We had a really, really good day and the
weather was kind with no rain and plenty of sunshine in the morning. If only
the temperature had been a bit warmer, but of course we were quite high. From
the gates you drive another 9 km up a steep, twisty road. From then on it's
all on foot, starting with a 20 minute walk. We found it to be bitterly cold,
especially the wind, so we got well wrapped up against the elements with hat
and gloves on the whole day. There is an agora, several temples, rock tombs,
gymnasiums, a colonnaded street and 2 necropoli (1 high up and 3 km from car
park). The huge amphitheatre is simply splendid, situated in a beautiful
setting, overlooking the mountains and valley. For scenery, I would put this on
a par with Selge, but still think that Delphi (in Greece) has the edge! This
is where we sat and ate our picnic lunch, trying to imagine what would have
been happening below! We were on our own, apart from 3 Irish people, that is
until a coach party turned up but they didn't hang around long. We also
climbed up to the Necropolis, with huge Sarcophagi, some with very distinct
reliefs depicting lions etc, and we saw the Tomb of Alcetas (a successor
general of Alexander the Great). It was all very interesting but we don't
understand why they chose a location so high up in the mountains! It must
have been a massive feat to provide for the rich people living in the city!
Anyway, it was back to the local football pitch again that night, which
turned out to be a very, very cold one!
We made the decision to go inland as far as Korkuteli and across via Elmali,
as our journey back down to Finike on the coast. All of the route we took that
day was very, very cold. At Korkuteli, which looked a big nice town, we were
unable to find anywhere to park so we then took the road to Elmali. The first
section of road was awful, as road works were in progress, so it was very slow
going and we were wondering if we had made a bad choice and whether the road
was to be like that all the way! Generally, however, it was good, so then we
made progress but we had a very long climb (up at 1290 m) out of Korkuteli
and we became nearer and nearer to the snow, until it was beside us (although
not on roads). The terrain was very bleak and treeless and reminded me of
coming over the snowy mountains into Death Valley in USA. We stopped at
Elmali for a few things and had a quick look round but it was so perishing
with a bitterly cold wind that we had no desire to stop any longer. We had
our lunch amongst the snow, but in our warm motorhome, with the sun which
shone all day, and it was very pleasant indeed. After this it was all
downhill and we passed through a reservoir, which looked a very nice place
with lots of herons but too cold to stay and so down eventually to the
little port of Finike. This port was quite pleasant, with lots going on, but
as the weather was so cold and it became the noisiest night so far (over the
last 6 weeks) we left the following day.
We drove on to Demre (we had been before), where we parked up along the beach
and had a couple of nights listening to the waves once again, though why
dustmen have to come along at 2.30 am to empty bins, we do not know and there
is definitely the usual problem with stray dogs there. We went into the town
in the morning, which was market day, and managed to find a big car park
suitable for us, so we had a good look round the market and shops and also
walked along to Myra but did not go in. Many rock tombs there, which
basically you could see from the road. So just a snap or two there and then
we were back down at Ucagiz yet again.
It had promised to be a good weekend's weather so we were determined to get
our canoe out on the water this time! We had a look at the dirt road that takes
you along to the castle and village of Simena and decided we would be able to
drive along it. So this is what we did but much to our dismay we found that at
the end of the road (near the castle) the area had been turned into a boat
yard, which was now full of boats in dry dock, being repaired for the summer
season, with no space at all for us to camp on! Last year there was absolutely
nothing there and we had thought we would have a lovely peaceful weekend
where we could launch our canoe but alas this was not meant to be! At least
not there.
So in the end we parked up on the car park in the village square of Ucagiz
for 3 nights (10 TL per night). It is always very busy here in the daytime,
with lots of coaches coming and going, but once they have all gone, it goes
completely dead and quiet (that is apart from the many dogs and cockerels and
also the 6 am wailing from the Mosque!) Adrian pumped our canoe up and we took
it out for a little try. We also met a very interesting couple in a yacht,
who invited us round for their so-called 'happy hour'. They had sailed from
New Zealand in their 39 ft yacht, which they had lived on for the past 8
years! They had lots of stories to tell.
Anyway the next day was beautiful and so we packed our lunch and got
everything ready for us to go out canoeing for the day. We managed to get right
round to Simena and found a little island beach/bay where we pulled in to eat
our lunch. After paddling across to Simena we had hoped to clamber up to a
look-out platform above the village but it is such a strange place (only
reached by boat) with no roads, just alleyways running between the
dwellings/cafes/restaurants on a hillside (only open in summer) and we were
unable to find a path that took us up to it, so we gave that up and then
paddled back round to the boat yard, which we had driven along to the day
before. Adrian got out to stretch his legs and give his aching back a rest
while I had a little paddle on my own. There was a big yacht which had sunk
there. I had really wanted to go over to Kekova and see the 'sunken city' but
it was just a step too far and we would have had to cross a section of sea
which may have been difficult, especially with the wakes from other boats
passing. We made it back safely anyway and had had a really enjoyable day out.
We also explored the ruins near us on foot and watched the sunset over the
water and mountains. Lovely. The next afternoon Chris and Desiree (from their
Skylark yacht) came round for a chat, which was very nice. We exchanged
books. They were staying in the little marina for 6 months. More heavy rain
and strong winds were forecast for that night, so we were informed by
Chris. So that made a change!
Oh dear, we were warned, weren't we! Around 4 am we were woken by a
spectacular, violent storm, with hail and rain lashing down in sheets, massive
thunder claps and lightning more vivid than I can ever remember before! It was
very windy too and neither of us could sleep but we did go back to bed at
about 4.30 (and there were no floods then) but not long after, I heard
someone shouting quite a lot (but no-one knocked on our door and we were
beside the coast guards). So I got up and looked out and realized that we
were once again under several inches of muddy water. A torrent of water from
the hills and mountains was gushing down the road and into the harbour but
was much worse than last time, as we were surrounded and I was beginning to
panic at this stage! There were lots of cars parked beside us which filled
with water but I don't understand why they didn't come along and move them.
Anyway, I shouted to Adrian that we must move. So we quickly got ready,
hoping that we would be able to get out through the flood. We managed this
and were soon on higher ground, safe and dry. We were so glad that we had
put everything away that night, especially the canoe (which we had left out
the previous night) or we think it would almost certainly have floated out
to sea! When we drove to the top of the hill it all went really quiet.
In the morning we walked back into the village but before we could get there
we were collared by a local Turkish man (who spoke very good English), who
insisted we visit his house for tea and a chat. So this we did. It was
interesting. They also had a young American girl staying with them, who was
backpacking everywhere on her own. She told us that she had been robbed at
gunpoint in Guatemala, but it didn't seem to have put her off! Anyway, the car
park square was in quite a mess and the cars that had been parked there were
now being bailed out! We went to see how Chris and Desiree had got on
overnight, but I guess they are used to stormy seas. We chatted and said our
goodbyes and set off once again.
Next stop was Kas but all it wanted to do was rain and thunder! This had
become a difficult place to stay, as they had roped off the area at the harbour
where we stayed last year but we stayed on a large scrappy car park for a
couple of nights. At least it was near enough to the town to be able to walk
into it in the evenings but the downside was the huge mosque which was
virtually beside us!
Later on we found a good spot (on the peninsula)
with beach and views over to the Greek island of Meis on one side of the road
and a bay on the other, where they train to scuba dive and also train dolphins
(although sadly they were caged in a very small enclosure). It looks as if
you are able to swim with them in the summer time. There were bananas growing
beside us there. Unfortunately some strange geezer decided to knock on our
door at 6 am in the morning, telling us we must move as it was dangerous
there because the sea comes right over the road to where we were parked. Now
with all the trouble with floods we had had, we did not want to chance it so
we moved further up the hill into a lay-by. Adrian had said that he thought
he was drunk and then we saw him with a fire on the beach! We were not
amused. However, the next day he came and apologised, so we don't know what
on earth that was all about!
The weather was good for a change and we did manage
to take our canoe out for a paddle round the bay, even though it was actually
quite choppy, but when we got over to where the dolphins were we were waved
away! After lunch we sat on the beach. We were going to go back to the car park
again but then saw that was the place where they hold the market! We did not
get disturbed that night. In the morning, we had intended to leave Kas. Adrian
went off to do a spot of fishing while I got ready to go, but then he came
back to say he had got his hook entangled in the rope line which goes across
the bay. So he said he would have to swim out to untangle it. The water was
very cold and he was unable to do the job, so he decided he would have to go
out with the canoe. So in the end we spent the whole morning canoeing
around the bay again but even the marina seemed to be 'off limits'! As soon
as you get anywhere near any boats someone appears on the dockside, almost
as if they think we have just canoed over from the Greek island of Meis
(nearby) and are some sort of threat! Anyway Adrian retrieved his hook and
after lunch we drove along to Kalkan once again.
It was here we learned of the terrible tragedy that had occurred in the
village of Biser, just 5 miles from our property in Bulgaria. A dam wall had
collapsed, sending a wall of water, 2.5 meters high, through the village,
tossing cars aside, uprooting trees and demolishing buildings. Worse was the
loss of life of some 12 people, with about 15 missing. It would seem that
cracks in the dam wall had been known about since 2003! What's more there were
2 more even bigger dammed reservoirs, further away, which were threatening to
overflow because of all the rain and melting snow they had had this winter.
There were reports that these could affect both Greece and Turkey if they were
to burst. The Sakar Hills campsite and the family who own it were all safe.
They were lucky as they are on the outskirts of the village and not down near
the river. It is going to take a lot of time and hard work to restore Biser
to normal. It seemed that most of Europe was having adverse weather
conditions this year!
At Kalkan we had a very disturbed Saturday night. We think they may have been
celebrating the start of their new year? The youngsters were having their usual
'good time party' with fires and Efes beer and music etc. A group of them
gathered right behind our van, getting louder, noisier and more and more drunk
by the second, with cars and motorbikes/scooters racing up and down,
screeching their tyres and making a general nuisance of themselves! Adrian
slept through everything, how I'll never know, but I was becoming quite
concerned for our safety. When you can't see what's going on or understand
what they are saying it gets a bit worrying. They always throw their glass
bottles down just where they stand. There was so much glass lying around. I
could smell smoke like tyres being burnt. Then someone on a scooter came
flying along and must have lost control. What actually happened we don't
know but he smashed his face up badly and also his bike. Of course they
don't wear helmets and obviously drink and drive! The police came along at
about 2.15 am and also the ambulance and he was then taken off to a
hospital in Fethiye. In the morning, we saw all the evidence and bits of
bike around and the fire (still burning) in the middle of the road, which
had tyres on the top burning. Several people came up to look and also to
look for his phone that he had lost. Will they never learn? I suppose we
were all young once though! We noticed that there are never any girls at
these drinking sessions and boys will be boys!
After our lunch we drove up to Bezirgan, which we can imagine would be pretty
in the spring with all the trees in blossom and the poppies in the valley
plain. It was certainly a world away from Kalkan. We had hoped to walk to some
of the ruins of Pirha but didn't realise just how far away they were and we
didn't think there was much left to see either, all among the prickly holly
bushes, on the mountainside, so we returned to look at lots of very old, very
well constructed, wooden grain stores which we found very interesting,
although at the time we were unaware what they had been used for. It was very
cold up there, so we decided to return to Kalkan, only this time taking up
residence on a car park above the town (with good views) hoping not to get
disturbed by local drunken youngsters!
We went back down to our usual spot in the morning though, as it was a lovely
day, although very windy, where we spent most of the day in the sun at the
little sheltered cove there. Adrian decided to try his luck at a spot of
fishing again and sure enough he got a bite. He called to me that he had
caught something, so I went over to look and he had finally managed to catch
us some dinner! A black bream dinner, we believe, which was different and
certainly made a change. He was so chuffed! I was just thinking of having a
fire, as there was plenty of wood about, when we were surprised by a visit
from Helen and David, who had finally got to Kalkan and were parked in the
car park. So we drove back up the top for the night but it wasn't such a
quiet night that time. We had plenty of rain overnight and a strange sky in
the morning. It was a bit like a tornado, with several 'funnels' out on the
horizon. Looking through binoculars, you could clearly see 'vapours' or some
such thing swirling up, down and around the edges. It was quite a phenomenon.
Anyway we said goodbye to Helen and David and, after doing some shopping, we
had barely left Kalkan when on a steep hill our motorhome decided it wasn't
going to go any further! It just stopped, on the busy D400. As this has
happened before, we left it a while and tried again but this time it would not
start again. Absolutely nothing! Adrian had just about decided that it might
have been the starter motor, when a bloke in a lorry, going in the opposite
direction, stopped to see if we needed any help. As soon as he realised we had
a problem he got straight on his phone and in next to no time a mechanic
turned up and after a while agreed with Adrian that the problem was indeed
our starter motor, which had two loose bolts and one missing. So he took it
off and drove off with it to get it sorted with the necessary repairs. He
was gone a while so in the meantime we had lunch, there on the side of the
road, with hazard lights on and with our red triangle placed behind the
motorhome. We've had our lunch in some funny places! We half expected to
see Helen and David driving by, thinking, well they haven't got very far!
The mechanic returned and fitted the motor and all went well again. What's
more, it only cost us 50 TL (less than £20)!
So after a bad (and slow) start to the day we arrived at Patara but I have to
say that we were not very impressed here. What you are paying for is the beach,
which is a lovely spot, but what if you only wanted to go to the ruins - and I
already knew (from last year) that they would not let us stay overnight. The
gates had been moved further out since last year and there was no plan or
indication of how much time you needed, only a leaflet which told us absolutely
nothing. Nothing was marked to say what it was or which route to take among
the ruins, and yet in the museum (which was locked) we could see all the
information that would have been needed! We found them most unhelpful and, at
5 TL each, it was more than we paid at the Unesco Heritage site at Xanthos
the next day, which was far better! We parked up in the village that night,
which was not too noisy (apart from a very loud mosque very close by), but
the village itself, as we discovered in the morning, was very, very scruffy
and mostly derelict.
So on to Xanthos, which was 3 TL each and which had a detailed plan at the
gate. We looked around at the very nice colonnaded street, a church and the
basilica. My only gripe here was that all the mosaic floors had been covered
up, due to restoration. We also clambered up the hillside to see all the rock
tombs and sarcophagi in the necropolis. After our lunch we looked at the
theatre, agora, piazza, temple and yet more tombs etc. There were lots of
pretty, colourful anemones here and swarms of bees going about their business!
Spring was on the way. We wanted to get down to a castle, by a river mouth
and beach for the night but after going round in circles, in among the
plastic greenhouses for ages, when we did eventually find it, it was no good
as it had been badly flooded and dredged and would have been too risky! So
we then had to find our way out again and believe me, once you get in the
'plastic city' I don't think you are meant to get out again! By this time it
was getting dark, so we had to make do with a night beside a busy/noisy
road and it was back to listening to thunder and lightning and the rain
once more!
The sun made a very welcome appearance in the morning (for a while at least)
and we saw that our camping spot was in fact not a bad place if we moved over a
bit further. There were lovely views over the snow-capped mountains, in among
pleasant fir trees, so we came back again that evening for another night.
Meantime, as we didn't see the ruins of Letoon (we could see they were very
flooded), we decided instead to drive just over the road and up to Pinara. You
have to go up a steep, twisty hill, which turns into a dirt track. We tried
and got about half way (Adrian even had to get out and saw some of the bushes
down) but, due to all the rain we had had, there were some deep gullies and
some very muddy sections too, so we had to back down a little way, leave the
van and walk the rest.
When we arrived a sign read '8 TL each', which was far more than in our book
and the most expensive so far, but fortunately we were told that day would be
free, so we weren't complaining, apart from the not very good weather! We had a
really good day here, even though much of the ruins were almost non-existent,
but we did see the acropolis, agora and temples etc. There is a smallish
theatre (not in good condition), lots of rock tombs and some sarcophagi, but
the main thing you notice as soon as you arrive are the honeycombed tombs high
up in a huge rocky outcrop. It would have taken a great deal of climbing to
see any of them and there must have been hundreds. They seemed in a very odd
place! We had a picnic lunch, high up with lovely views. The paths, as
usual, were not well marked and it would have been very easy to lose
yourself. We did find it quite difficult but all in all it was a lovely
walk, which takes you down by the river with huge boulders to clamber over
but an enjoyable day. We drove back down to stay at the same spot as the
previous night.
On to Fethiye, after yet another night of pouring rain and more
thunderstorms. It had become very cold in the early hours and although the next
day was mostly sunny, it was also very cold. So very different last year! Lots
more snow on mountain tops appeared overnight and for some unknown reason we
drove past lots of chunks of hard snow on the main road. We didn't know how
they had come to be there. We stopped and shopped and had our lunch at Kipa
and then continued on to the marinas, driving along the peninsula looking for
somewhere to stay. This proved difficult and we nearly left Fethiye but then
found a small place (fairly near town) by a cafe and some boats. It was
bitterly cold! However, this proved to be a good place to stay for the weekend
as it was actually very quiet - no wailing, no dogs and no youngsters with
their Efes! There was even a tap.
We walked into the town the next day, admiring all the expensive yachts and
the scenery of blue skies, blue water and snow capped mountains. We had our
lunch out and also visited a big fruit/veg and fish market, where we purchased
some salmon. Later on when we got back to our motorhome Adrian pumped the
canoe up again and we paddled all around the boats, cruisers and yachts in
and around the bays. Very cold nights and daytime too, at that time,
mid-February. The following day was very cold too, but lovely and sunny and
getting slightly warmer.
We left Fethiye for Ovacik, where once again we took in bags and bags of
washing to be laundered and after some lunch drove down to Oludeniz, had a walk
along the prom, watching the paragliders, then sat on the beach for the rest
of the afternoon. The water was as blue/turquoise as ever! That evening/night
an annoying dog kept us awake with his barking so we drove along to the end
of the road by the lagoon, hoping this would be a quieter spot. Adrian got
our canoe out and went out on his own a while and then I did the same. After
our lunch we went for a walk along the track but not very far and when we
got back we sat in the sun beside the lagoon. Before tea we both had
another paddle. It was gorgeous, very calm and still and so clear you could
see through the water down to the bottom. This was another good, enjoyable
day and, as it happens, we had a good night - just the cockerels to contend
with basically (no wailing), so we decided to stay another night.
We took a packed lunch in the morning and walked the rest of the track that
we had started to walk the day before. We couldn't really get down to a beach
we could see but, after scrambling around rocks and undergrowth a bit, Adrian
found us a nice spot on rocks where we ate our lunch and then sunbathed most
of the afternoon. It was an idyllic place with only the sound of the water
and the occasional birds breaking the silence. No-one was around in the area.
It was a sort of gorge and the colour and clearness of the water made it
hard to leave, but when we did get back I took the canoe out on my own and
managed to paddle right across the blue lagoon to the beach on the other
side and round the corner where it meets up with the sea. It's further
than you think but most enjoyable all the same as the water was like
glass, with hardly a ripple, almost all the way across and back again.
We left the lagoon and as we arrived at the PTT (Post Office) we saw a camper
just coming out of the car park and realised it was Helen and David, so we
stopped and chatted, then both drove up to Ovacik, as they too were about to
collect their laundry. We said our goodbyes here, as they were off back to
Antalya for Helen to take a flight to the UK. We then drove into Fethiye, where
we once again shopped in Kipa supermarket, then on to Gocek again. Although we
had no sunshine that day and it was cooler, at least it didn't rain, unlike
the last time we were there!
On to Koycegiz and a beautiful day's sunshine. We were unsure quite what to
expect, after all the floods of the last time we were there, unsure whether we
would still be able to park up in the same place. We parked in the car park
first, as Adrian wanted his computer fixed so he would also be able to use our
'Vinn' dongle, as our month was nearly up and we had only used a fraction
of the 4 gigabytes that we had paid for. We went round the town while they
were fixing it but they were still working on it when we got back and must
have spent at least another 30 minutes on it, then after they had finished
they said they didn't want anything for it! We had to insist they took 10
Lira anyway. They were so obliging. They had spent ages on my laptop last
time we were there, also at a very minimal cost. We were very pleased
customers!
We were also pleased to find that we could then park
up by the lake again. It was rather messy from the floods with so much rubbish
lying around, but at least the ground was hard enough for us. In fact from most
of what we saw you wouldn't really know there had been a flood at all! All the
cafes and restaurants etc were up and running. We were remembering why we
liked it so much here, as it was as beautiful as ever. Very calm and just
like glass. However, we also remembered just how quickly it can change, as
after lunch the wind whipped up and the lake became very choppy, with
'waves' more like the sea again. The wind made it chilly but we were still
able to sit outside all afternoon. It was just lovely!
The next day was also beautiful. Adrian took the
canoe out first thing, as it was very still, and we then went all around
Koycegiz centre on our cycles and saw just how much damage the floods had done
at the other end of town, where there was a campsite (now up for sale) and a
beach but this was now all silted up due to the amount of water that had come
off the mountains into the lake. We also saw that an English couple who we
had met last year had their house up for sale. We had our lunch outside
beside the lake and I then took our canoe out myself, along the front to the
little harbour and back, although the wind got up again, which made it
difficult. Then we sat outside and sunbathed for the rest of the afternoon,
listening to the lapping of the lake and a loud chorus of croaking frogs!
Basically, we did much the same all weekend as the weather was so nice for
a change!
So plenty of canoeing, cycling, walking and sunbathing too. Adrian saw the
chap we had met last year, with his house up for sale, so they had a chat and
it seems that they are having another house built for them nearby. We learnt
from him that the youngsters who have huge flags draped over their cars are
about to do their Conscription in the Army and that the procession in cars,
which we saw one evening, where they hoot and toot and bang the drums as they
drive round town, are all about young 12 year old boys ready for their
circumcision! Ouch! Later on, some of the locals, drinking and eating behind
our van, insisted Adrian was to join them for a drink. Apparently most of them
were teachers and yet not one of them could speak English, so needless to say
it was difficult for any of them to make conversation but they certainly knew
how to ply Adrian with plenty of Raki! We just don't understand their culture
of all the men congregating together drinking etc, yet never are any of their
wives (or any women) anywhere to be seen!
We had decided to go along to the Sultaniye baths again, once we left
Koycegiz, but during the Sunday night we again had torrential rain and
thunderstorms. We were beginning to fear a repeat of our last time there (in
the floods) but we didn't float away! However, it was very rainy in the
morning too and I had acquired a nasty cold from somewhere, so we changed our
plans. We drove down to the car park and managed to post our eldest
grandson's 18th birthday card to Australia and also obtained another of the
international phone cards. It was Monday market day, so we had a look, but
it was mainly clothes that day, maybe because of the foul weather, and
after buying a hot chicken (pilic) we drove off along to Gekova (Akyaka)
where we had our lunch. We decided to stay the night (no charge) and what
with the rain and my cold, I didn't venture out again. It turned cold again
and we didn't get much sleep that night either, as we had yet more violent
thunderstorms and heavy rain. As we were close to a river, I couldn't help
worrying it might flood! I was becoming paranoid! It was just so changeable!
The following day we drove over the Sakar Pass (such a climb here) and up to
Mugla, where we had our lunch in a Kipa car park and re-stocked again. It was
absolutely freezing and sleeting too. In fact we had gone from 19-20 degrees (2
days ago) to 5 degrees! We had a change of plan again here, as we had intended
to go inland to Afrodisias and Pamukkale but as it was so cold we thought
better of it! So on through Yatagan and Milas and up to Bafa Lake once more.
This place also had been quite badly flooded and we were unable to park at
the beach where we had hoped, so we ended up at the Agora again. Although we
were not charged at the top of the road, as last time, a Turkish lady wanted 5
TL from us to park. Adrian haggled and got it for 3 TL. A bitingly cold wind
and I doubt it would actually have been any colder had we ventured inland!
Anyway at least the scops owls were still about. One perched up on the chimney
and we briefly saw another land on the ground right in front of us as we sat
in our motorhome! We then had an extremely cold night and day (plenty of ice
around), which thwarted our plans yet again! I would have liked to canoe over
to the little island with the ruins which would not have been far at all but
it was just so cold, especially the wind, and as I was still suffering the
after effects of my heavy cold, I thought maybe it wasn't such a good idea! We
just had a short walk down to the beach area and round and before we left we
saw the pair of owls flying out from the barn. There was a pair nesting in
March last year, so I guess they were getting ready to pair up again.
After lunch we drove on to Soke, then Kusadasi where we had hoped to park at
the harbour or marina, but after driving all along the front and up to Pigeon
Island we could not find anywhere to stop, apart from a car parking area up the
hill, which we thought would be noisy. So we continued on to Efesus and,
believe it or not, we parked up beside the cemetery again (as we did last
year, when we were moved along from Pamucak beach by the Jandarma)! Noisy
traffic there and it's impossible to get away from dogs in Turkey, but at
least we weren't disturbed by our neighbours in the graveyard!
March 2012
Another very, very cold night (and day) but without disturbance, that is
apart from the traffic! We were approached by some chap, who wanted us to go
and see his collection of artefacts from the ruins at Efesus, which he claimed
he was allowed to keep if they were small pieces and that he had a friend who
helps himself to suitcase loads of items to take home! When asked what the
Jandarma would have to say about that, he said that they did not care! His
offer for us to purchase 'old' coins was rejected by us and he drove off.
Adrian had read a piece in our Lonely Planet guide book (which was just as
well), which said we may be asked to buy 'ancient' coins which, despite their
grimy appearance, were actually modern. Some genius had discovered that when
coins passed through the digestive tract of a sheep or cow, they emerged
looking convincingly 'aged'! Anyway we drove along to Efesus, hoping we might
be able to see something of interest from the road and to see their prices:
20 TL each, which enabled you to see SOME of the ruins. We couldn't see much
from the road but did not enter either.
On this occasion we drove along the coast road, which we had not been on
before, but we were quite disappointed with the scenery and the numerous
holiday destinations, although we did stop for our lunch at a nice viewing
point over the sea and islands. However, we did find a very nice spot to park
up at Sigacik, but I just wished it had been warmer, although we did have
some much needed sunshine. There is a quaint little harbour and a marina
too, inside crumbling medieval walls. Plenty of activity, with yachts coming
and going and many fishermen using various different methods to catch their
fish. It's quite shallow there and we watched one fisherman wading around in
the water for hours with his nets, shell-fishing we presumed, while others
were catching octopus. We were camped right beside a cemetery again, would
you believe! This place was very quiet, sheltered from the wind, lovely
views and with so much wood about, you could have had bonfires for a week!
We sat out in the glorious sunshine the following afternoon but did not get
our canoe out as Adrian was, by then, also suffering with the cold. We
watched the sun setting that evening and made a little fire.
In the end we stayed for 4 nights and did manage to take our canoe out on the
last day, plus a short cycle ride into town, and yet another fire. In the town
we saw fishermen unloading their catch. Some huge black fish, maybe swordfish
or marlin? As I mentioned, the water there was very shallow in places and was
also very clear but a fierce, biting wind made the water choppy, apart from a
small area where we were camped, which was lovely for sunbathing, fishing
and watching the yachts and fishing boats go by. There were several very
small rowing boats ferrying people to and from their yachts anchored up
just off shore but they seemed to us to be very overloaded and low in the
water. One of them had 7 people on board and looked about to sink at any
moment! Whilst we were in our canoe, we were asked to retrieve an oar that
had gone overboard from one of the yachts. We managed to do so. All in all,
we had a thoroughly good 4 days in a very nice place, which will be chalked
up for a return visit anytime we are back in Turkey.
The weather turned again and we left lovely Sigacik to its fishermen. On
still, calm water, one fisherman was snorkelling and harpooning his octopus
catch, probably for the restaurant by us. We decided not to go to Cesme in the
end, so headed off for Izmir. One of these days we will get the motorway
correct, driving round the city there, but trying to follow our ridiculous maps
(and of course without Satnav) it can become a bit of a nightmare! We got on
the motorway OK with the toll ticket, which we had bought on our way down to
Turkey (before Christmas), still valid but somehow we found the motorway came
to an end, with us in the middle of Izmir! We followed the road along the
front, past all the various harbour areas, and it did seem to go on forever
but we did find our way out again eventually and without getting stuck. We
breathed a sigh of relief.
So on to Menemen and west to Foca once again, where we parked in the same
place as last year - by the harbour - in a small car park. By tea time it had
started raining and we didn't venture out again that day. It rained all night
and was very noisy with packs of stray dogs barking wildly, and the wailing
at 5 am didn't help much at all either! However, after a very dull start to
the next day, we did actually have a rather nice afternoon and evening. A
very big Tuesday market on that day and we spent most of the day walking
around the area and also the shops, marinas, harbours, docks and small beach
area. The water was very calm and inviting for a canoe paddle but we didn't
launch it in the harbour that day. A lovely sunset but the dogs had become
a big problem there this year and so we moved the motorhome just up the
hill (by the lighthouse) and down to the little beach area.
We dragged ourselves away from Foca on another glorious day and took the road
round the peninsula to Yeni Foca (as we also did last year). This is a
beautiful drive with pretty little bays, until you get past Yeni Foca, that
is, where the last section of road has power stations, wind turbines and a
thick smog in the air! We carried on through Aliaga and northwest to
Candarli, where we had our lunch on the beach front, another very pleasant
place. We carried on to Dikili (we hadn't been before) which is quite a big
town and here we found a Kipa store so we stocked up.
Northwest again (before Ayvalik) to near Kucukkoy (otherwise known as
Sarimsakli or Garlic Beach) and to the top of a hill at Seytan Sofrasi, where
all the coaches go to take visitors to see the sunset and views over Lesvos
(Greek) and many, many other islands too. You certainly get panoramic views
from up there. We cooked and ate our dinner but unfortunately by this time
there was no sun, so obviously we did not see a sunset on this occasion, which
was a pity. Anyway we drove back down the hill and found a nice place to park
up beside a sort of lake with lots of pink flamingos feeding on it. It was a
lovely warm evening for a change! It was dark by then but in the morning we
watched. They do a funny sort of dance by shuffling backwards, digging their
feet around to stir up food and of course also burying their heads underwater.
The sounds they make are very similar to geese. We also saw some flying back
and forth, displaying the beautiful red colours of their wings. One pair
briefly entwined their necks in a courting ritual, I suppose. There were also
herons and avocets. The morning was very still and calm, although later we
had rain.
We left Ayvalik and drove on and up to Burhaniye and Edremit (Kipa
supermarkets in both these towns, which are part of the Tesco chain), then
turned off west, along to Behramkale, still following along the edge of the
water, which was still very calm and you could barely see the 'join' between
sea and sky! Although we had been to Behramkale briefly last year, we found we
had not actually been to Assos, so we took the lane down which was very
narrow and steep. It became too narrow for us, so we parked up, had a very
brief look and as it was raining returned half way up the hill, to an area
which said 'Camping'. We thought it would just have to do, as it was getting
late by then. There didn't seem to be anyone about but, as is usually the
case, someone appeared and asked us for 15 TL. We offered him 10 TL and he
seemed happy enough. After our tea and before dark descended we wandered down
to the quaint little 'village' of Assos and the lovely harbour. It was a
pity we didn't have better weather but at least it had stopped raining.
Several nice old Greek style buildings, mostly hotels and restaurants and a
tiny beach. We walked along the harbour wall, beside the fishing boats and
the very clear water. As the lights came on in the hotels, it all looked
very pretty. From where we were camped we had views over the Greek island
of Lesvos.
Back in Bulgaria
March 2012
The next day was our grandson's 18th birthday, Down Under in Perth. I can't
believe he has already made it to that milestone! He and his girlfriend are
planning a 'gap year' travelling and hope to come to the UK and also to
Bulgaria over the coming months. We phoned (on a particularly cold day) and
spoke to him and our daughter (who complained it was too hot there!), then
continued our journey out of Turkey, into Greece, then out of Greece and into
Bulgaria.
We had no problems with the border crossings and there was now little
evidence of the awful winter and tragic flooding, which they had endured just 4
weeks prior. We drove past Biser but didn't stop to see for ourselves the
damage caused, at that time. We managed to get our motorhome down the lane
onto our property above Harmanli once again. The weather was dry on this
occasion and we were so pleased that nothing had been touched at our place
and that everything appeared to be just the way we had left it a week before
Christmas!
So, it was onwards and upwards over the next couple of months, trying to get
as much as possible done to our building before we returned to the UK for our
'summer' once again! We had a very cold night and a cold, dull, miserable day
too, but at least it was dry! Adrian got our car going, after cleaning the
plugs, and we found our well full of water which we were very grateful for, as
before we left (last Christmas) we were getting very concerned that we did not
have enough water for our needs. We had virtually no rain for the next 3
months! Unfortunately Adrian found that our water pump was broken, which may
have been caused by the extreme winter temperatures freezing/thawing a small
amount of water left in it.
After our lunch, we had to purchase a vignette for our car and so we decided
we would go and see Matt (at Sakar Hills campsite) and the village of Biser.
The couple who were staying in his flat whilst buying a property were still
there and I think the winter had come as a bit of a shock to them. It was the
worst winter for 60 years apparently! We had noticed in Harmanli that the
Lidl store was closed (it had only opened last year) and Matt told us that
both Lidl and Billa supermarkets had been flooded out and a restaurant down
by the Maritsa river too. In all 4 villages had been affected but not quite
as badly as Biser. There were police outside Matt's place, who were
apparently there all day, every day, to make sure there were no gypsies
going into the village to ransack any properties of their possessions!
We walked down and it was such a sight but of course must have been far worse
a month ago! Whole houses had either been washed away or knocked down as
unsafe. We were shocked to see that a place we had looked at a couple of times
with a view to buying was no longer there at all! So we were lucky but not so
the unfortunate people who lost their lives there (Matt said it stood at 12).
People were out clearing and burning and generally trying to resume some sort
of normality. At the river you could see just how high the water had come.
Some of the tree branches had become trapped very high up under the bridge.
In fact a large area of Biser looked more like a war zone than a sleepy
village. It must have been terrifying and devastating. I don't know how they
coped, as the temperatures were so low for several weeks (with plenty of
snow) – below freezing in the daytime and it went down to -28C one night!
They also had to endure a period of time without electricity or water. The
Bulgarians are certainly very resilient people.
Adrian spent almost the entire next day trying to mend our water pump. It was
that or buy a new one and we were becoming desperate for water (even though
there was plenty in the well) but he knew he would not be able to get what he
wanted and our pump had been a new one only last year. He managed in the end
to get it up and running (if rather noisily) and we were able to fill the
water tank in our motorhome. Unfortunately, he also found that the pipes in
the 'chalet' had all frozen and burst again, which didn't matter too much as
we were staying in our motorhome but we were in dire need of some clean
washing! However, he was able to hook the washing machine up to our hose and
later we were able to use it OK.
The weather there at that time was very, very changeable. We had 3 very cold
days, then the following day we were basking in very warm sunshine but the next
day we couldn't believe, as it was back to freezing temperatures and settling
snow again, and yet the weather forecast was predicting a weekend of 21C!
Adrian moved our Kamena from the chalet into the 'lounge' of our little home
and made a fire so he could test it out. As it's in the middle of the room, we
have to accept that the flue is not going to be a very pretty sight but with
little alternative for heating, we thought it would be the best place for
achieving maximum all round 'central heating'! Well, would you believe it
snowed all evening and probably all night as well. When we looked out in the
morning we must have had 3 to inches of snow and it was impossible to
see Harmanli at all! However, it thawed very quickly and warmed up a treat.
The sun came out and by the afternoon there wasn't a cloud in the sky. It was
then lovely and warm! I have never known 3 days to change so dramatically.
It was indeed a beautiful weekend in the end, as promised, getting warmer
and warmer. Hard to believe all the snow and freezing temperatures we had
less than 48 hours ago!
By Monday Adrian had more or less finished working upstairs (the 2 bedrooms).
He still had to make and hang the doors (and cupboard doors) and plumb in the
little en-suite toilet but once he had vacated upstairs for downstairs I could
start to paint, stain and decorate. Mind you, we didn't have any glass in our
windows at that time! We were getting to the more interesting stages by then
anyway.
On Tuesday Adrian arranged for an electrician to come and connect up a
thicker cable and therefore a more powerful supply of electricity to our new
home. He also bought shingle tiles for the roof, which was the next job. He had
rigged up ropes and pulley systems with a plank to balance on! This was a
challenge, as he had never worked with those sort of tiles before. They seemed
to be quite difficult to fit and the pitch of the roof was such that this job
proved to be doubly difficult!
Next day the electrician came and connected our new electric supply onto the
telegraph pole. Adrian would have been able to do this himself but nevertheless
we got the job done and he only charged us 20 Lev! (approx £8). We did seem to
have more power then, so hopefully this will be ample for us in the house.
Adrian managed to fall over in all the brambles when he missed the pole with
the ladder and it must have been the first day he was wearing shorts too, so
he was nicely scratched and scraped all over both legs! I didn't actually see
it happen but think it must have looked so comical (with him trying to
extricate himself from all the thorns) and he said he felt such an idiot in
front of an audience. However, he later made a very good start on the tiling
of our roof and, despite him not being very keen on the colour (at first), I
thought they looked very, very nice. So far, it was so good but it was to
be more difficult as he got higher (as you start from the bottom). As it
happened it turned out to be quite a good day and the weather that week had
been simply glorious, with warm evenings and nights too!
On Thursday I made a start with staining in one of the bedrooms. Adrian had
to move higher on the roof, so he tried out his 'plank' rigged up on ropes,
which actually proved not to be so bad in the end, as he was able to take up a
pack of tiles with him, instead of going up and down the ladder with each one!
Then he ran out and had to wait for some more to come in!
On Friday I continued with the staining. The rest of the tiles had arrived,
so Adrian went off to collect them and also bought the wood for our stairs but
as it was too late to do any more of the roof by then, he made a start on the
building of the stairs instead.
Over the weekend Adrian completed tiling one side of the roof and made a
start on the other. I nearly completed the first coat of staining in both
bedrooms and landing. We had such a lovely week of very warm sunshine, which
made all the difference. All of a sudden the blossom on our almond trees (among
others) came out and everything started greening up. We knew we would soon be
hearing the nightingales once again and hopefully the cuckoo too. The storks
flew over, looking for somewhere to nest and we had the usual buzzards and
hawks enjoying the thermals. The 3 different types of woodpeckers, that are
there all year round, were as busy as ever and various lizards had been out
basking in the sun. No sign of any snakes (at that time) thank goodness (much
as we like the wildlife)! I started the second (and final) coat of stain on
our bedrooms and Adrian made such good progress with tiling the roof that he
was on the home straight! The weather helped no end (and with the light
nights too), especially as he didn't have to contend with any wind to speak
of for a change, though just how he had managed to balance on the slopes of
the roof, as he did all week, I'll never know! He just refuses to let things
beat him.
And so our work continued. Adrian completed the roof tiling and that included
the ridge tiles too. All finished in just 5 days! He had actually been very
worried about doing the roof. His limbs are not quite so agile as they used to
be and because of the height and pitch of the roof, and the fact that there
were no batons to stand on, he was very dubious that he would be able to carry
out the work himself. He needn't have worried as he made a brilliant job of
this and I'm really pleased with how it turned out. It's very neat, tidy and
colourful and gives the impression of some depth too. A good choice.
I finished all the staining of the upstairs bedrooms and landing and then
also gave the same a coat of varnish. Then there were the stairs, also quite
tricky, as we didn't have much room for them - hence the problem. These were
also something Adrian had not had to tackle before but he was more than happy
with the outcome when all had been completed. We just hope they don't twist
and warp too much, as the wood here is not seasoned!
The Bulgarians had started pruning their grapevines, sometimes ploughing
between using a donkey, sometimes with a horse and occasionally with a
cultivator. Our next job was the wiring. Adrian completed the upstairs sockets
and light switches and put in place a couple of wall lights. He then started
on the wiring downstairs and after this the plaster boarding. Our little home
was put to the test when we had very strong winds one day, ripping off our
plastic sheeting on the windows, so Adrian had to board them up again,
temporarily. I did find it a bit unnerving, as I was working upstairs at the
time, but it stood the test very well and was still standing the following
day!
My next job was the emulsion painting of the walls and ceilings upstairs. We
chose a nice light, warm cream colour but I have never used paint with an aroma
of flowers before! At least that's what it says, but I don't know what sort of
flowers it smells like and it doesn't specify the type, although it is quite
pleasant.
April 2012
The next major job for Adrian was the double glazing, which as it happens
turned into a bit of a disaster, although it could have been so much worse! We
already had the wooden frames, which we had brought over from the UK last
year, and he wanted to have the glazed units made up so he could fit them
himself. Once again the language barrier made it difficult for Adrian, plus
of course the different ways they deal with things here, and then there are
always items that you are unable to get at all, so that you have to
improvise and find another way round the problem. Adrian went to see Kamen
again, who has been such a help to us, and he phoned the shop and made sure
they knew exactly what we required, so there would be no misunderstandings.
I had asked Adrian if he had double-checked his measurements and was sure
they were correct and he said he had. So they were all ordered. It all worked
out very, very cheap in comparison with the UK and we were pleasantly
surprised. How often can you say that at home (UK)! For 8 big windows we were
charged 470 Leva (£200 approx) and this was for the top quality glass, as
there were 3 different price ranges! It's what they call the 'four seasons'
glass.
So we waited (just a few days)and then were able to collect them, get them in
our car, negotiate our steep, bumpy lane, then proceed to carry them up the
hill to our place (one by one) and on a very humid day, which was hard going.
Then Adrian told me that something wasn't right, so then there was a lot of
measuring up being done and a lot of swearing and cursing and he had now got
to take them back again! So they were carried back down the hill and driven
back to the shop again. He was gone some time and returned with the bloke
from the shop, who wanted to do all the measuring himself! There were a few
windows that fitted and these he insisted on fixing into our frames for us.
Goodness knows what they thought, as the windows had been measured
incorrectly by us! 'Mad English people' (we supposed) and we imagine word
got around very quickly! Luckily Adrian had measured them larger than they
should have been, so he left them there to be cut down to size for us. It
was a good job they hadn't been too small! Now would you believe that very
same day, whilst Adrian carried one of the good windows up our path, he
tripped, fell over and broke the glass! What a day he had! However, a few
days later, when the glass units had been re-sized, Adrian picked them up
and all they asked for in payment was 10 Leva! (although he did buy them a
few drinks). Unbelievable.
One afternoon I very nearly trod on yet another snake in the grass (the first
this year)! There are just so many about here. Once again it seemed very
docile, maybe it had just come out to warm up in the spring sunshine. Adrian
attempted to move it to one side but it just slithered off down a hole among
the grapevines. I don't think it was the same type as any we had seen
previously. I guess we are going to have to get used to snakes in Bulgaria!
Adrian also saw our big hare again one morning, so obviously it managed to
survive the harsh winter here. I would presume it was the same one we saw last
year as it's huge and I don't think you could mistake it really! Adrian also
saw 2 huge eagles flying above ours, which he watched for some time and he
said they were performing a display together and were really beautiful. I
didn't see them but did see a very graceful ibis circling overhead and the
same day heard the cuckoo, which was great. The following day, sure enough,
the nightingales had arrived too and the scops owl started his 'rusty hinge'
mating call! That same day another snake was spotted by me and this was a
big one, the same as one we have seen several times now. The wildlife is
really something here (although I would prefer less snakes). We couldn't
ask for a bigger variety of birds, at least. About a week later I saw yet
another snake slithering into our cellar once again. This one was the same
type (I think) as the one Adrian had killed when we were here in October.
He did try to get this one too but it found a crack and that was that. We
have never seen so many snakes as we have here, not even in Australia or
America!They certainly seem to like our little corner, but hope we don't
come across any IN the house at any time! Adrian doesn't seem to think so,
with it being elevated on pillars, so I hope we are able to sleep easy at
night anyway.
We were invited over to Kolarovo by Shirley, Martin and Matt to see the
annual Bulgarian Endurance Horse Race event, which we had been to 2 years ago.
Last time it was absolutely freezing weather; this time it was really lovely,
quite hot and sunny. There were more horses this time but no Bulgarian music
or any dancing! Shirley and Martin had invited quite a few other Brits and
laid on food at their house, as they did last time, which was all very nice.
We had met a few people before but not others. Kamen, his wife and son were
also there. In the afternoon, it had been arranged for us all to have a tour
round the Winery, which is virtually next door to them. Matt works there
quite often in the picking/wine making season. It was very interesting and
made a change, as we had never been to one before, but a few samples for us
to taste wouldn't have gone amiss, which was a pity.
The painting upstairs having been completed, I then
worked outside, pruning and tying all our grapevines. Whether they will survive
or not is another matter, as we are not there to spray for disease or assist
them in any way, but keeping them tidy is all I can do for now until we decide
later what we are going to do with all the garden, when we have finished
building. This gave Adrian a chance to make plenty of dust downstairs with
plastering, planing, making wooden window surrounds, architrave, skirting
boards and all the rubbing down, of course.
Later, I made a start on the staining downstairs and
Adrian did more of the electrics, fixing all the sockets into place (which he
then tested and found to be good), moving the electricity meter from the
'chalet' to under our new home and wiring everything up to a consumer unit
inside our kitchen, though he wasn't at all happy with how it's done here, as
they do not have any earths on anything. He was very surprised not to find any
in the consumer units, so he has had to make several of his own earths, to be
on the safe side. It's quite an alarming fact of life in Bulgaria!
After the electrics, came the double glazing units. Despite them having all
been measured up by the firm making them up for us, they were not a
particularly good fit, so Adrian had to chisel plenty of the window frame away
to make them fit but otherwise all went fairly well, even though my heart was
in my mouth every time he clambered high up on his rather ancient but
reliable ladder. You can't be too careful where glass is concerned. An
interesting fact is that that very same ladder has played a very big part in
all of our projects and been a crucial piece of equipment for us. It was
first purchased and used in 1975 on our very first house and has been going
strong (well not so strong these days) ever since! It has been to Ireland
and back and now Bulgaria, along with all the other various places in
between, including new builds, complete guttings or renovations and which
now currently stands at 12! Adrian also helped out on 2 major building
projects for our daughter. In every single place that we have lived, we
have at least one photo of the very same indispensable ladder.
May 2012
The next job for Adrian was the bathroom and kitchen. A shower unit that had
been in the chalet had to be dismantled and re-assembled in our new house ready
for the plumbing. The cooker, fridge/freezer and water heater all had to be
brought over to see where best to be situated and for the pipes to be
positioned. We purchased toilets, basins and cisterns. This became another
stumbling block, as the Bulgarians do not use copper pipes. They use a white
plastic pipe that does not bend, making it necessary to use many joins, which
will not look so neat, and other different practices too. So this was a very
new learning curve to have to get to grips with, although Adrian is a very
fast learner, so I had every confidence. He also ran the water pipe
underground and encased the upright ones in another big pipe filled with
insulation, which hopefully will prevent any freeze ups.
I finished the 2 coats of stain and all the varnishing downstairs too and
then started on the emulsion paintwork. We had glorious weather in April and
May and it became very hot (too hot for working in really), especially in our
motorhome. We even took to using our A/C for an hour or so each day whilst
cooking and eating, which was a great help. Needless to say the weather made
everything grow like mad, so the weeds shot up but Adrian was able to get his
strimmer fixed and spent several evenings cutting everything back. I had
pruned our grapevines earlier and these too were growing very rapidly (far
more than at the same time last year).
I know I go on about the wildlife here but it really
is something special, especially in the springtime. We again saw our resident,
huge hare lopping around the garden and more snakes than I really wanted to see
but also lots of lizards. Some quite big green ones, which were very colourful
and they could certainly move fast. We have stoats scampering about, around
our grapevines and I think they must be the creatures who have been burrowing
little holes by them. We saw a woodchat shrike a few times, a very
distinctive black and white bird with a beautiful russet coloured head, plus
warblers and lots of goldfinches too. We also had a visit from a hoopoe
(not seen in Bulgaria, by us, before), which has a loud pipping call and
sometimes make a weird growling noise too. He stayed around all morning,
sitting on our neighbour's uninhabited house and he was back again in the
evening, sitting on our window ledge, and appeared to be admiring his
reflection in the glass! I would too if I looked like him, with his
beautiful crest and long beak! Most amazing though was the arrival of
several golden orioles, which we have never seen anywhere before. They also
have a very distinctive song and call but can be difficult to see, even
though they are not that small. Adrian first heard them but only managed to
get glimpses and thought at first they might be bee-eaters as he saw a
flash of yellow but I was very fortunate the next day, whilst Adrian was
out, to be treated to some entertainment by a pair of (definitely
identified) golden orioles. I had very good, close views of them as they
sat first on our cherry tree and then our pear tree, eventually flying
through the garden, sort of hovering and kissing and playing games with
each other. The male bird was absolutely magnificent - bright yellow with
black and white wings, with a distinctive white splodge on the side and
with a red beak.
We saw and heard them right up until the day we left
Bulgaria and think they were nesting very close by. I just wish I had been able
to get a photo. The cuckoos are there, quite often calling throughout the night
(something else we have never experienced before), and so we have a cacophony
of bird song all night. The cuckoos, the nightingales (small and very, very
difficult to spot) and the scops owls all sound like a dawn chorus in the dark.
I was typing this at midnight whilst listening to it all! It is just so
surreal and takes a bit of getting used to! We have also seen pairs of very
pretty little yellow buntings and were delighted when even the bee-eaters put
in an appearance. We first saw these birds in Greece, yet another species
with iridescent, striking colouration. It really was like living in an aviary
- a 'twitcher's' paradise - and anybody even remotely interested in birds
and nature would be in their element there and understand why we get so
excited by hearing and seeing all of these different, wonderful creatures,
in their natural surroundings. We could spend all day 'bird spotting'.
OK well, nature studies aside, it was back to the building! Eventually I
managed to complete all of the emulsion painting downstairs too, as it needed 2
coats, and with so many edges round windows and ceiling beams, it was slow
going, but I got there in the end. Adrian got to grips with the plumbing. He
had to purchase a machine which heats up the pipes so you are able to sort of
weld them together as required but he wasn't impressed with it at all!
However, he made a brilliant job of all the plumbing, although the kitchen
sink was to come later, as we did not have any kitchen units at that point
and Adrian was debating whether to make them all himself or not, when we come
back again.
Everything else was done, although we did somehow manage to have an
'accident' with one of the toilets and a cistern! Whoops! These things happen.
We also had the usual teething problems too, whilst testing all the systems
out for leaks etc, so we had our share of floods but this seems to be the
norm with this sort of job and all is good now and that's the main thing.
Adrian also worked very hard on all the sewer/waste pipe-work, the flue (to
the Kamena) pipe-work and many other bits and pieces (which included
digging holes), outside and underneath our place, too. We had weeks and
weeks of hot, dry, sunny, humid days but then it was all change for a spell
of heavy rain and many, many thunderstorms, which were quite violent. Two
of our 4 cherry trees fruited and there was just so much we couldn't keep
pace, but they didn't seem to last very long either. At least we hadn't
gone home before they were ripe and we did not see any of the birds devour
them!
Then, basically, it was a case of making sure everything was ship-shape
before going back home to England again. Adrian tightened all the supports
under the house and purchased plenty of old sump oil and diesel, which he then
mixed and painted all over the outside of the house for protection. Before we
left we had some pretty nasty weather, with more torrential rain and violent
thunderstorms once again and it turned cold too. Adrian did decide that he
would start to take down the old 'chalet', so that he could use the wood (on
our return) for our kitchen units. He will only dismantle a small part of
this, as the remaining section is to stay and be used as a shed. He also
sawed off a few dead branches of the cherry tree and did a bit more
strimming whilst I had a big fire, getting rid of all of our accumulated
rubbish.
We then had the task of turning round the motorhome ready for our departure
and this job is always quite tricky and difficult. There is simply not enough
room at the best of times but coupled with all the mud from the recent storms
we had been having, and also the fact that one of our neighbours had decided
that he was going to sit and watch everything, I'm surprised anything went to
plan at all! Adrian took the wheels off our trailer (we had decided to leave
it there), drained down the water system in our house and removed the water
pump (to take home for repairs) and we also picked the last of our
cherries.
Journey home to England via Greece, Italy and France
So the day had arrived when it was time for us to make tracks once again.
Adrian walked up the lane, cutting back any branches overhanging the road and
checking the lane in general. All was OK and after nearly 9 months away we
made our exit. We didn't experience any problems with the lane, despite all of
the rain we had had. We arrived at the Greek border in time for lunch. Matt
(at the Biser campsite) phoned and told us that they had the builders staying
in their flat whilst building all the new houses for those in the village who
lost theirs in the floods. They were to be given brand new houses free of
any charge. Maybe we should have bought property in Biser after all!
Although whether the same would have applied for non-residents, we don't
know.
We drove along to Alexandroupolis and Komotini, although the Egnatia Odos
motorway had still not been completed and the old road was getting so bad.
There were more and more toll stations being set up but at least there were
also more and more LPG stations arriving too.
We turned off to Port Lagos where we stopped the night, although I was rather
disappointed in this place and wished we had stayed back along the road on the
beach, where we had stayed before. The mosquito population in Port Lagos was
very hungry indeed, which was a pity as it makes for very unpleasant 'camping'
and you don't feel inclined to venture out at all! We watched the fishermen
and the herons and listened to the curlews though.
We had the same old problem, of our motorhome losing power, several times in
fact and it seemed to be getting worse, so we will definitely have to get it
looked at when we get back. Anyway we passed Kavala and Thessaloniki, then
Veroia and Kozani and eventually on to Preveza (on the west coast) which was a
lovely pretty road, once you got off the motorway. Hills, gorges and streams,
with lots of pretty wild flowers on the roadside too. We came across a
Carrefour supermarket where we were able to stock up with provisions. They
even had some lovely salmon, but everything seemed so expensive and we could
no longer halve the total and take some more off, as we do with the
Bulgarian Leva to equal Pounds!
To get to the Preveza boatyards (all 3 of them), you have to drive through a
tunnel submerged under the water (another 5 Euros) where we met up with Lyn and
Del (my sister and brother-in-law), who were working hard on their yacht
'Hermes' (in dry dock) in preparation for launch day yet again. We parked up on
the water's edge again (we had missed that, over the last 2/3 months) and then
spent 2 nights there. Although we did have some sun, we had a very strong,
cold wind. The last time we were there (we did some work on my brother's
yacht, which also happens to be kept there too) was 6 years ago. Where does
all the time go? We spent the day with Lyn and Del, who came round to our
motorhome in the morning and we then spent the afternoon on their boat,
chatting and looking at photos, then the evening in the restaurant where we
had a very nice meal of Greek moussaka and chips. We had a night listening
to the waves and then it was time for us to go again, so we said our
goodbyes and we were off.
We drove to the port of Igoumenitsa where we were very pleasantly surprised
to find that it was indeed true that all of the illegal immigrants had gone -
at long last and not before time! We didn't really believe it and kept our
eyes open, expecting someone to appear any moment. It was a joy to be able to
wander over to the booking office without any worries! So we booked our
Minoan ferry for midnight on the following night - a Thursday - to arrive in
Ancona, Italy on the Friday at 5 pm. It was much more expensive than last
year but apparently we must have had a special offer last year.
Meantime we drove along to Drepano's beach, where there were a lot more
campers than last year, and we spent the whole of the next day just chilling
out on a lovely hot sunny day, sunbathing, swimming and watching all the
ferries going back and forth and across to the island of Corfu, which we could
see very clearly over the water from where we were camped. In the evening, we
drove down to the port and boarded the ferry at about 11.45 pm. We left
Greece at midnight, camping on board, on a very calm sea. It was a very good
night from about 2 am, after all the alarms and announcements were over and
done with. At least we didn't have to put up with dogs barking this time!
The following day was nice and sunny too and we went up to where the pool was
(it still had no water in it, so don't know which months that happens) and sat
in the sun during the afternoon. A very strong wind kept it slightly cooler but
it was good tanning weather nevertheless. We were an hour late coming into
port, so when we did finally make our way off it was 6 pm Italian time (7 pm
to us) and unfortunately we could not see any sign of any campervans parked
at the port of Ancona (which looked a quaint pretty town). We did not know
where to go, so we had to make our way onto the motorway (take a ticket) and
settle for an SS (service station) just north of Ancona.
Next morning we stayed on the motorway going north along the coast to Rimini,
where we then turned inland to Bologna. At least there were not too many
lorries and we could also then start to use the Satnav again. So northwest up
to Piacenza, Alessandria and along to near Torino, where we settled on
another SS. Most of these garages have 'dump stations' where motorhomes and
coaches can empty their tanks (grey water and black), also with taps to
enable you to thoroughly clean out the tank. Everything is automatically
flushed away and it doesn't cost anything at all (and we didn't even buy any
fuel)! We were also able to fill our domestic water tanks. In fact
everything you could want. Why don't we do something similar here (in UK) -
but of course our country does NOT cater for the travelling tourists who do
not wish to use the VERY overpriced camping sites! This service station was
another (hard to believe) quiet night stop, which makes it so much more
stress-free!
The following day we exited the motorway well before we got to Susa, as we
decided to drive OVER the Alps instead of going through the Frejus tunnel (into
France), which is very expensive. Whether we saved ourselves anything remains
to be seen (probably not), as obviously it took much longer, with lots of
hairpin bends and switchbacks etc, but I'm glad we did, as it was very
picturesque. Of course we were up in the snow, so it was very cold and windy
with showers but we got to the Col du Mont Cenis where we had our lunch and
just around the corner was Lac du Mont Cenis - a dammed reservoir, at a great
height. It was very low in water and the area was so cold and bleak, with no
trees, but the water was a lovely bluey green colour and we saw lots of
skiing chalets with chair lifts/cable cars too. We did have a problem with
our motorhome losing power again twice that day (once being on the steep
climb up too) but we didn't have to stop and wait long.
Anyway we made it into France and along to Chambery, where we shopped at
Carrefour. There was a lovely big lake there with a marina full of yachts, but
it was far too busy. We thought it must have been a public holiday. There was
certainly nowhere there for us to stay, so we made a hasty exit (hoping not to
get stuck in the very narrow lanes of the village) and continued driving,
although by then it was getting late. We had not brought our French camping
books with us this year and, although there is a vast amount of Aires in the
country, you can never find one when you are really in need! In the end we
stopped on a small Carrefour car park in Yenne, which was not open, but we
shopped again in the morning. Nobody said anything at all and in fact it turned
out to be a very quiet, safe place to stop.
We had very hot weather during all of our drive home and a relatively
stress-free journey, although it did take us much longer than usual, mainly due
to us keeping out of tunnels and off the motorways! The next morning's drive
was scenic through pretty gorges and then we drove northwest to Belley,
Amberieu-en-Bugey and Bourg-en-Bresse, and slightly northeast to Arbois, where
we found a car park which turned out to be yet another good spot (virtually in
the centre of the village), once all the young revellers had tired of their
loud music and merrymaking! Arbois was a pretty, typical, French village on a
river, as we saw when we walked round in the evening. Unfortunately, as the
engine of our motorhome is inside (not under the bonnet), it is one of the
pitfalls we have to contend with on a hot day, if driving all day. We had
parked up at 4.30 but even so, at 10 pm, we were still uncomfortably baking!
Of course, it works both ways, in so much as the heat of the engine helps
keep us warm on a cold day too.
The following day we continued up to Besancon, Gray, Chaumont, St Dizier and
down to Luc du Der and, although lovely, could not find anywhere to park up (we
did lose engine power twice again that day too, so we hoped we were going to
be able to complete our journey home). We continued on until nearly at
Vitry-le-Francois where, as it was getting late, we stopped to have our tea at
a noisy, dusty, truck-stop. We really didn't fancy staying there the night,
so after our tea we decided to have a walk into the little village of
Marelles, to see if there was anywhere quiet we could park up and we found a
small but ideal car park by a children's playground, so we went back to get
our motorhome. Nobody bothered us and we had a very peaceful (if hot) night
listening to the trains in the distance.
The next part of the drive home was northwest to
Chalons-en-Champagne, Reims, St Quentin and Arras. All the latter part was
looking for somewhere suitable to stay, which seemed an impossible task and we
wished again we had brought our book with us. Another late stop, but we
managed to find an Intermarche supermarket at Bruay-la-Bussiere (a quiet
area, out of the town) which closed at 7.30 pm. We decided this would be a
suitable place and after our tea we shopped in the supermarket and also had
a wander into and around the town. We watched the sunset with panoramic
views at 9.30 pm.
So on to our last day abroad for now, which was all
towns, villages and roundabouts. We arrived in Calais (after delays due to an
accident on the motorway) in time for lunch. We thought we might have to drive
up to Dunkirk, if the ferry prices were expensive, but managed to get one for
67 Euro for 6 pm that evening. We intended to walk into the town, but found
the gantry walkway closed, so we basically chilled out, in and around our
motorhome, waiting. We were then told it was going to be late - they said 6.30
but it didn't arrive until 7 pm and even then it was painfully slow! We
didn't get into Dover until 9 pm (our time) but at least it was only 8 pm UK
time.
June 2012
Adrian managed (at that point anyway) to remember to drive on the left. We
had made it again, after our 9 months away, still in one piece! We headed for
our usual spot on the sea front at Dover, watching all the ferries in and out
again and had another quiet (not too cold) night. So all in all, we had a
pretty good run home, even if it did take us much longer than usual. The
nights had all been quiet and the weather had been hot and dry, but we
certainly knew we were home again during the following couple of weeks. The
weather was atrocious - heating on almost every morning during June and July
- the people as stressed out and angry as ever, and our bureaucracy just as
mad as always!
Anyway, we drove down to Essex, went to see my aunt and cousin, who very
kindly lent us their car again, bought our first Chinese takeaway for 9 months
and settled ourselves down on our usual camping place beside the fishing lake.
Over the next couple of days we did the usual family visiting before we left
for home - back to Norfolk again. Our garden was an absolute jungle (grass
waist high), not touched for 9 months and generally overgrown. A ton of post
awaited us, needless to say, and although we didn't have frozen pipes as last
year, we still had various problems to deal with.
Our heating system had been drained down before we left and on our return we
found it to be full of trapped air (which Adrian was unable to release). New
taps were needed for the kitchen and a small job turned into a big job, with a
blockage somewhere in our cold water tap/shower in bathroom, plus lots of
fence panels blown down by strong winds. So that was just a few of the things
for us to contend with on our arrival and during the next 3 or 4 months.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w7eou441sk4tvq8/cWggomDuyV
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zfa4p3kqweztilh/iwyjEk8hXc
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ieieskma365dyc6/IpQUAJaApb
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5haq101kdepyaq8/Y0rtDSz658
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jrrdx9mfwo7k1k5/zMpcLMJi6W
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