SPRING IN PORTUGAL 2013
Margaret and Barry Williamson March 2013
Introduction
After leaving Briarfields Touring Park in
mid-November 2012 for Plymouth and a ferry, we headed south through France and
into Spain for Christmas. On the first day of Spring we crossed the border
from Extremadura into Portugal.
Continued
from: Winter in Spain 2012-13
Continued at: Return to England through
Spain and France 2013
 |
Campsites in France, Spain and
Portugal
1.
Larrouleta, Urrugne (France) 2. Ezcaba,
Pamplona 3. Valle de Tena, Sabinanigo
4. Almunia, Almunia de San Juan 5.
L'Ametlla Village, L'Ametlla de Mar 6.
Kiko Park Rural, Villargordo del Cabriel 7.
International, Aranjuez 8. Parque
Natural Monfrague, Plasencia 9. Ciudad de
Caceres, Caceres 10. Asseiceira, Santo Antonio das
Areias (Portugal) 11. Isla de Puebla, Puebla de
Sanabria 12. La Viorna, Potes 13. Playa de Orio,
Orio
|
PORTUGAL
To Camping Asseiceira, Santo Antonio das Areias, Alto Alentejo - 78 miles
(Height 1,600
ft)
Open all year. See www.campingasseiceira.com. €16 per night
for a stay of up to 6 days, inc 10-amp electricity and Free WiFi, or €14
for 7 nights or longer. Cash only. N 39.40992 W
7.34075
After a day
of seriously heavy rain had delayed our departure, the Vernal Equinox dawned
warm and dry. On settling our bill at Caceres Camping, we benefited from a new
offer of every 4th night free, a nice surprise!
We took A66 briefly, then joined
rd 521, a good 2-lane road heading due west to Portugal. Near Malpartida de
Caceres we crossed a railway lined with telegraph posts, each one topped by
nesting storks. At the next village, Aliseda, there was a Guardia Civil
police checkpoint, where two cops with guns waved
us through after noting the number plate. It was a remarkably quiet
road for an international route (apart from our CD of Country
Music). The sun shone, storks strutted among the
spring flowers round a lake, all we needed was a pleasant lay-by but
we saw no parking areas before or after the busy little town of
Valencia de Alcantara.
After 68 miles we paused for lunch at the frontier
post at 2,134 ft/645 m. It was deserted,
derelict and litter-strewn, the days of customs checks and money exchange long
gone, thanks to the EU. There was plenty of parking space: just us and a pair
of sad-eyed hopelessly stray dogs. We must remember Portugal is an hour behind
Spain (making it the same time zone as the UK).
Across the border,
rd 521 continued as N246 towards Castelo de Vide. We turned right (signed
Marvao) at the Portagem roundabout, after 5 Portuguese miles. An earlier right
turn, via Ponte Velha, would be a short cut to Santo Antonio das Areias but
it's a narrower road. Our chosen route climbed for 2 miles through groves of
cork oak to a junction at 2,234 ft/677 m, where the (dead-end) road to
Marvao twists away uphill to the right. We turned left, descended to the
village of Santo Antonio das Areias and turned right following campsite
signs, up past the Bullring, then half a mile down to a neat little
campsite among olives and cork oak on the left. We'd phoned ahead and
the English owner, Gary, was expecting us.
The site has immaculate modern facilities and free
WiFi that works in the caravan with our booster aerial. With only a dozen
pitches squeezed inside a quiet walled field, it's a popular base for cycling
and walking, set on the edge of the Serra de S Mamede Natural Park and
overlooked by the hilltop village and castle of Marvao.
At Camping Asseiceira, Santo Antonio das Areias,
Alto Alentejo
Click: www.magbazpictures.com/in-the-alenteja.html
The village - a 15-minute uphill walk - has a
mini-supermarket/bar (reminiscent of Ireland), bank (ATM withdrawals limited to
€200 per day), filling station (cash only), post
office, pharmacy, hairdresser, one restaurant, a small Saturday
morning indoor/outdoor market, and an indoor swimming pool (closed
for cleaning until April). And the bullring – though unlike Spanish
bull fights, in Portugal the injured beast is not publicly killed
but finished off afterwards in private, so that's all right.
Mobile shops visit the campsite, with bread and
pastries daily. On Fridays, English Carol (living on a farm in the
neighbourhood) brings home-made produce for sale, including frozen curries,
jams and chutneys, soups, sausages, chocolate mousse and lemon cheesecake –
all very tempting. We've tried the Chicken Curry
(excellent) and look forward to a frozen Pork Madras – made from
Carol's own chickens and black pigs.
The cafe/restaurant Pau de Canela (= Stick of
Cinnamon), run by mother and 2 daughters, opens daily for lunch, with evening
meals only by special arrangement. Over the weekend of Palm Sunday a local
gastronomic event celebrated the arrival of kids and lambs, so on the Saturday
evening Gary organised a lamb dinner for campers at the Pau de Canela.
After local olives, bread, cheese and mushrooms, the tenderest of lamb was
served with potatoes and jugs of sturdy Alentejo red wine. A choice of desserts
followed, then coffee and the restaurant's own cinnamon liqueur, smooth and
sweet. We enjoyed the moonlit walk back to camp after a splendid meal.
Cycling
1.
A 25 km/15-mile circular ride from
Santo Antonio das Areias, via Beira. Up hill
into the village of SA das Areias, then out northeast to Aires and circle round
to Beira, riding very near the Spanish border. The quietest of rural lanes,
through a rolling landscape of cork oak, olives and a few vines, scattered with
huge boulders. We took a short side-trip to a signed Dolmen (megalithic
tomb with flat stone laid across uprights) and also saw a Hoopoe flying in the
woods.
Reaching Beira we photographed the lovely railway
station, with its classic blue and white azulejo tiled facade. This was
once a busy international station (one of only 4 rail links between
Portugal and Spain), with doors labelled 'Passports' and 'Customs', but
the line has recently closed. The adjacent station hotel is being converted
into a youth hostel. Two milky coffees in a tiny bar in Beira cost only
€1.20.
Riding south directly back
to Santo Antonio das Areias via the villages of Barretos and Ranginha, we
passed a man ploughing behind a horse – something we have not seen recently
since Bulgaria. The countryside is certainly more like Greece or Eastern
Europe, rather than Spain. In the cottage gardens, chickens peck around under
citrus trees and there are rows of vegetables. Many of the young have gone
to the coast or cities in search of work, leaving older folk to subsist.
But the roads are well surfaced and the people friendly, always
returning a Bom Dia or (as we were told after noon)
Boa Tarde. The colourful flowers and butterflies that
were out welcoming the Spring also reminded us of Greece.
2. A 16 km/10 mile climb to Marvao Castle and back.
After a pleasant mornin g ride
(see above), followed by bacon & eggs back at the campsite, we decided to
aim for Marvao - the medieval village and castle perched on a rocky outcrop
above Santo Antonio das Areias, ringed by 17thC walls.
We climbed fr om
1,600 ft/485 m at camp, through Santo Antonio das Areias and up to the road
junction we'd driven past on our way here, at 2,234 ft/677 m. The quiet road
wound its way up through fields of sheep, goats, cattle and black pigs – all
with young. Spring is here! After this 3-mile ascent, we rested briefly by
the water fountain/trough before turning left for the final 2 miles, which
zigzagged more steeply to Marvao. Approaching the settlement, we passed a
small motorhome parking area by the Convent of Our Lady of Estrela. Higher
up there was more parking space and toilets before the main entrance gate,
Portas de Rodao.
Through the gate, we cycled and walked the
higgledy-piggledy narrow cobb led
lanes leading up to the Castle, reaching 2,805 ft/850 m at its entrance. We'd
climbed 1,205 ft/365 m to this viewpoint, with a magnificent panorama from the
wall above the manicured gardens. Leaving sightseeing for another visit, we
donned warm tops and gloves for a remarkably swift 5-mile descent, with only
one brief climb at the end past the bullring. We were very satisfied with the
achievement and with the performance of our Paul Hewitt bicycles. Barry fitted
new rear brake blocks once we were back!
3. A 32 km/20 mile
ride from Santo Antonio das Areias to Beira,
returning via Aires and ending with a climb to Galegos and back. We varied
and extended the first ride, starting with the short climb into SA das Areias
and an easy run north via Ranginha and Barretos to Beira, where we paused for
coffee in the little bar behind the station. Then we circled back through the
rolling landscape via Aires, with scarcely a car on the road.
After 13 miles, rather than turning right, directly
back to Asseiceira and the campsite, we rode left towards the Spanish border.
The lane descended briefly to cross the swollen River Sever, then climbed
steeply through the unspoilt cobbled hamlet of Galegos before meeting main rd
246 just 3 km short of the frontier with Spain. The bar in the old post office
in Galegos was called 'O Contrabando'! Returning to Asseiceira, it was a good
downhill to the river, then a gentle climb home.
4. A
35 km/22 mile ride to Castelo de Vide, via Barretos returning via Portagem. Start with the
short climb into SA das Areias and north via Ranginha to Barretos (7 km). Turn
west on a hilly minor road, past a simple campsite. Empty country with 4 eagles
soaring above. Reaching Castelo de Vide (16 km), go through gateway and
mount the cobbled lanes to the centre of the walled town. This lovely warren
of twisting alleyways, churches, white cottages and flower pots is actually
lived in, unlike the tiny tourist trap of Marvao.
We worked
our way uphill to the 14thC castle (open daily 9.30-5 pm, free, though closed
today due to a 'staff problem'). In 'Our Lady of Alegria', a small Baroque
church in the adjacent burgo medieval (medieval village within the outer
fortifications), we admired the colourful tiled interior and talked with
Francisco, an informative curator. Speaking excellent English, he stressed that
he worked for the Town Hall/Tourist Office, not the Church. A plaque outside
the church commemorated the Marranos - the 'New Christians' (forced
Jewish converts), who had lived for centuries in this area around the castle
gates and the market. The Museum inside Portugal's oldest synagogue, a
little lo wer down
in the Judairia (Jewish Quarter), had now closed (1-2 pm), so we
returned to it after lunch.
We found an excellent meal at Goivo's, behind the
main square. The €5 Menu was wonderful value: home-made vegetable soup, a large
roll full of piping hot pork, a drink and a coffee. Eaten in the tiny bar,
decorated with bullfighting portraits – including Goivo himself! The only other
table was occupied by a Portuguese/English couple, so we had an interpreter to
hand.
Next we had a quick look in the large and gloomy
church of Sta Maria de Devesa in the main square. The flower-decked statue of
Mary still rested on the wooden platform on which it had been carried to the
Holy Week celebrations. The nearby Tourist Office had free
town maps, leaflets and sugared almonds! See www.cm-castelo-vide.pt
For Pictures of Castelo de Vide,
Click: www.magbazpictures.com/castelo-de-vide.html
Before l eaving
we returned to the Jewish Quarter and the very interesting Museum inside a
13thC house, formerly used as a synagogue. Entry was free; a booklet in
English at €0.50 essential as the information was only in Portuguese. We
learnt that thousands of Jews, expelled from Spain in 1492, crossed the
border via Portagem (meaning 'Toll Road') into Castelo de Vide. Tragically,
it proved a temporary refuge as the Portuguese King Manuel I followed
suit in 1496, expelling Jews who refused to convert. The 'New
Christians' who kept up clandestine Jewish rituals were often sentenced
to death by the Court of Inquisition in the following centuries. The
Holocaust Memorial room recalled the continuing evil of anti-semitism.
Today, the DNA of the population of Portugal is 20% Jewish, a
legacy of the number who remained and intermarried.
We cycled back from Castelo de Vide along the busier
rd 246 to Portagem, then turned north on the quiet lane back through Ponte
Velha to SA das Areias. At Portagem we paused to look at the late 16thC
bridge over the River Sever, with a medieval tower that protected the
crossing here on the old Roman road. So many centuries of history! The tower
had a plaque with the dates 1496 and 1996, commemorating the expulsion of
Portugal's Jewry.
5. A 48
km/30 mile circular ride from Beira: via Povoa e Meadas to Castelo de Vide,
returning via Barretos. On a fine afternoon we drove the Sprinter 6 miles
to Beira, parked behind the railway station and saddled up .
We cycled north on a very quiet lane (becoming rougher as we left the Marvao
district) to Pereiro, which was just a farm very near the Spanish border.
Turning northwest, the empty road rolled on to the little cobbled village of
Povoa e Meadas (20 km), where Old Lads sat in the central garden. There was
even a small museum and two bars. In the 'Oasis' we sampled little meat pies,
home-made shortbread and coffee – Portugal's pastries are splendidly
affordable!
From here we headed south for Castelo de Vide,
spotting rabbits and lizards enjoying the sunshine, as well as a pair of small
snakes dead in the road. Meeting the main road 246, we followed it briefly
before turning left and climbing up through the town, skirting the eastern
walls of the castle. Then it was an easy downhill ride, back via Barretos to
Beira. A superb circuit.
6. A
37 km/23 mile circular ride from Povoa e Meadas, via Montalvao and Nisa.
Parking the Sprinter in the little square at Povoa e Meadas, we rode north for
11 km to the smaller village of Montalvao. On this sunny afternoon along the
quietest of lanes (only 2 cars passed us), wild flowers carpeted olive groves
and cork woods. Cistus (Rock Roses) had spread from the fields and along the
verges. We stopped to photograph the delicate white flowers and breath in the
scent from the twigs of the shrub. They yield a gum resin used to make
perfume and for fumigation, though there was no sign of harvesting.
Montalvao had a church, a sign commemorating its
history 1512-2012, and the sparse foundations of a border fort looking east to
the Spanish frontier. The adjacent water tower was plastered with the nests of
circling swallows, which far outnumbered the elderly inhabitants of the
village.
Another quiet rolling lane took us southwest for 16
km, almost to the town of Nisa, before turning east for 10 km and back to Povoa
e Meadas crossing the northern dam of the Barragem do Poio.
7. A 32 km/20 mile
circular ride from Valencio de Alcantara (over the border in Spain). On a
fine Sunday afternoon - our last day camped at Santo Antonio das Areias - we
drove the Sprinter into Spain. It was just 9 miles to the deserted border post
past Galegos, plus 7 miles along the quiet N521 to Valencio de Alcantara. From
here we cycled back to the border on a lovely rural lane through the village
of San Pedro, overlooked by the familiar fortress of Marvao. Coffee and cakes
at the garage/cafe just before the border, after climbing from 1,500 ft to
2,100 ft, then we circled back to Valencio on even quieter lanes via
Jiniebro.
Gary's campsite at Santo Antonio das
Areias, found quite by chance, proved an excellent base for cycling, with
virtually no traffic, superb scenery and enough hills to satisfy our gears. We
completed the above rides during a 3-week stay in March and into April, also
repeating some of them in the opposite direction.
Walking
A sketch map of 6 local walks is available
in campsite Reception. Varying from 4 km to 13 km in length, they all start
from the gate. We followed 3 of the walks, enjoying rural lanes and footpaths,
spotting birds and flowers and what might have been a Genet (a cat-like mammal
with short legs and a ringed tail). There is also a longer route that climbs
steeply up to Marvao but we preferred to cycle up a tarmac road to reach the
castle.
Easter
Our Easter treats came from the mobile shops that
visit the campsite. Felipe, the baker, took orders
for a special Easter bread that he described as 'Good Mama cake'(?) - a sweet
loaf decorated with sugared almonds and a hard-boiled egg. We also tried his
lovely flaky custard tarts known as pasties de nata and other local
pastries made with sheep's-cheese. And then there were Carol's plump sausages
stuffed full of her home-raised pork, and her individual
chocolate mousse with brandy and toasted nuts . . . Not forgetting the
chocolate eggs and Easter bunnies from our nearest Lidl, in the town of
Portalegre about 16 miles south (which also has Leclercs and
Intermarche supermarkets).
Easter is too early this year, judging by the
weather! While Britain and northern Europe is still having snow, here in Sunny
Portugal the rainy season persists. On Good Friday it poured all day,
the highlight being the arrival of the baker's van and Carol's weekly visit
with her farm produce and home-cooking.
On Easter Saturday morning the sun appeared
and we went to the weekly market in Santo Antonio das Areias. At the outdoor
stalls with clothing and footwear, Barry bought a fine pair of leather shoes
from a couple who spoke fluent French. There was a very limited amount of
produce inside, the marble slabs of the fish hall sadly bare. We made the most
of a fine day by driving up to explore Marvao Castle before lunch (see below),
followed by a cycle ride (number 3, above) in the afternoon.
On Easter Sunday it poured relentlessly once
more, though it's not cold. We've not needed to heat the caravan for some time
but waterproofs and wellingtons are essential.
Marvao
For Pictures of Marvao and the Castle,
Click: www.magbazpictures.com/marvao-castle.html
Parking the Sprinter van outside Porta da
Vila, the lower gate of the fortified hilltop village, we
entered to ramble among the network of narrow alleys and whitewashed houses. The
outer walls of the settlement were accessible to those with a head for heights.
We made our way up to the castle, past the Church of Santa Maria (now a Museum
but closed for renovations) and the beautifully clipped gardens.
The
castle is perched on a rocky crest at the northern end of the hill that was
formerly occupied by Romans, Christian Visigoths and Muslims. The Moors built
the first stronghold there in about 715, naming it after Emir Marwan, the
Moorish Lord of Coimbra. It fell to the Christians in 1166 and was rebuilt
around 1226, one of a chain of fortresses along the Spanish border including
Castelo de Vide, visible to the northwest. A system of linked walls and towers
protect the inner courtyard of the fortress and its huge cistern, which
supplied the village. From a height of 862 m (almost 3,000 ft), there is a
commanding all-round overview of the plateau below, stretching across to
Spain. A military garrison was housed here from the
Middle Ages until the castle was captured for the first time in 1833, when the
Liberals used a secret entrance to seize it from the Royalists.
Entry cost €1.50 (all categories) and included
a small exhibition, though the signs and leaflet were only in Portuguese. We
joined the Easter visitors, taking photographs, climbing towers and descending
to the brimming cistern. Like them, we'd been waiting for a day clear of mist
or rain for the panoramic views, stretching to Spain on the south side and
the Serra de Estrela to the north. See www.cm-marvao.pt .
APRIL
2013 – still based at Camping Asseiceira, Santo Antonio das Areias, Alto
Alentejo
Roman Ammaia
About 5 miles from our camp
(just south of Portagem, along rd 359 towards Portalegre) lie the vestiges of
Roman Ammaia. Entry is €2 (€1 for Seniors), open daily 9-12.30 and 2-5 pm.
The small museum had
a collection of Roman artefacts (j ewelry,
coins, lamps, pottery etc) inside an interesting old farmhouse. From there we
strolled across peaceful fields among the remains of the south gate, temple
podium and columns, the paved square of the forum, and (across the road) the
foundations of the baths. We had the place to ourselves – quite a contrast
with the popular sites of Roman Merida in Spain! The city flourished here
during the first century AD, growing olives, wheat and vines. Paved Roman
roads led to Merida and Caceres and there was a Roman bridge over the
Sever at Ponte Velha (= Old Bridge). Much of the stone was used as a
quarry for later building in Portalegre, Castelo de Vide - and M arvao,
whose splendid castle now overlooks the site!
When Ammaia was
finally abandoned, after flooding during the Muslim occupation, the village of
Sao Salvador da Aramenha developed to the east of the site, leaving the ruins
under open fields. This makes it ideal for excavation, now the responsibility
of the University of Evora, though there was little sign of recent activity.
Archaeology is a luxury in times of financial austerity but there is still
much to unearth here, including a theatre. www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_villa_of_Ammaia
For more of our
pictures, Click: www.magbazpictures.com/roman-ammaia.html
A drive via Carreiras to the Senhora da
Penha Chapel and Mirador
You can continue a short
distance south from Ammaia on rd 359, then turn off right to the village of
Carreiras. From here a magnificent narrow road
twists and climbs northwest along a wooded ridge on the edge of the
Serra de S Mamede (not recommended for caravans or larger
vehicles!). This precipitous drive led to a small pilgrimage chapel,
the Senhora da Penha, on a bluff above the road. From the
small car park we climbed a short fligh t
of steps to the chapel, perched on a crag at 2,200 ft/666 m, with
breathtaking views over Castelo de Vide.
The road then
hairpins down to meet rd 246 near Castelo de Vide, from where we drove back to
Portagem. Pausing along the main road at the Pingo Doce supermarket, we
were greeted by Francisco, the curator we'd met in the church of 'Our Lady of
Alegria' a few days earlier! He recommended the cheese from the Azores,
claiming they also produced the best butter and milk. We imagined tiny
islands full of cows (or should that be sheep?) But we did buy some
cheese.
The
Megalithic Route (a circuit of approx 32 miles from Castelo de
Vide)
Armed with the
free Roteiro Arqueologico leaflet from the Tourist Office in Castelo de
Vide, we used the Sprinter van and our walking boots to track down the ten
listed prehistoric monuments. The leaflet has a basic map, with GPS
co-ordinates – essential, as the directions are in Portuguese and some were
neither signed nor visible from the road! It proved a fascinating treasure
hunt, driving northwest from Castelo de Vide to the Barragem de Povoa e
Meadas dam, returning via Povoa e Meadas villa ge.
There are actually
dozens of granite dolmens (Antas in Portuguese: a tomb with a large flat
stone supported by uprights), burial chambers and menhirs (standing stones) in
the boulder-strewn landscape around Castelo and Marvao: evidence of a Celtic
megalithic culture thriving here some 3,000-5,000 years ago.
Some of the
ten listed sites were easily accessible through a marked gate, while the largest
dolmen (Anta del Melrica) involved a walk of about half a mile
across boggy fields. And we had them all to ourselves except when we crossed
the dam wall at the Barragem (very impressive) and reached a cafe, BBQ
area and motorhome parking, right by the ancient Necropolis of Boa Morte.
Here we ate our picnic, watching 6 storks circling high above. On the way
back from Povoa e Meadas, the Menhir de Meada, a fertility symbol
standing proud at 23 ft/7 m high, is not to be missed – it's the tallest
in the Iberian peninsula.
For
more images, Click: www.magbazpictures.com/ancient-stones.html
A
Birthday Tour of the three Marble Towns (125 miles)
Margaret's birthday
dawned in a haze of rain, shrouding Marvao castle from view. No day for cycling
or picnics! Equipped with a thermos of coffee and two of Felipe's delicious
pastries, we set out in the Sprinter to revisit the Marble Towns of Estremoz,
Borba and Vila Vicosa – with a vague memory of passing through them on an
Easter cycle tour of Portugal, our first visit to the country in
1998.
Rd 359 south from
Portagem climbs to 2,250 ft/680 m before dropping to Portalegre at 1,325 ft/400
m, 16 miles from our campsite at Santo Antonio das Areias. It was still
raining down on the plain. We called in Lidl (the fresh croissants are much
better than those at the nearby Leclercs!), then continued down rd IP2 to
Estremoz, past cork forest and olive groves grazed by red big-horned
cattle.
Estremoz (at
50 miles and 1,380 ft/420 m), largest of the Marble Towns, had plenty of free
parking space in the Rossio, its vast main square in the lower town (except on
Saturdays, market day). The Tourist Office, where we found a free map and
leaflet in English, is in the twin-towered white marble former convent on the
square. It also houses the town hall and police station.
It was time for
lunch, in the Adego do Isaias – an old-style tavern serving char-grilled
meat and listed as a favourite in both Rough Guide and Lonely Planet.
The rustic wine cellar (Adego = Bodega = winery) was certainly
atmospheric, though the pork fillet off the grill was disappointingly tough
and dry. Not recommended!
At least the rain
stopped as we climbed the narrow lanes leading through the ramparts to the
upper town, though the light was poor for photographs of the views from the
belvedere on this grey afternoon. The restored white fortress, built by Dom
Dinis in the 13thC for his new queen Isabela (Elizabeth of Aragon), is now a
Pousada (luxury hotel, like the Spanish
Parador). A glimpse in the entrance hall is permitted.
The original castle became an ammunitions store, which blew up in
1698! One original tower remains, along with a 17thC almshouse
(now the Municipal Museum showing hundreds of examples of the
colourful pottery that the town is known for), a restaurant in the
former 16thC jail (which might have been a better choice for
lunch) and the Chapel of Santa Isabela built in 1659. A modern
statue of the saintly queen, her apron full of roses, recalls
the miraculous legend. Isabela was famously generous to the poor
and when her disapproving husband asked one day what she was
carrying, the loaves intended for distribution turned into roses!
Borba,
smallest of the Marble Towns, is 10 miles SE of Estremoz. We parked easily
opposite the Place of the Republic, a white marble square with marble
fountains, though didn't go far as it was pouring down again. Must add that
the immaculate public toilets in the square were entirely made and tiled in
marble! The marble from this area is one of the finest in the world,
rivalling Italian Carrara. Quarried since Roman times, it was used
throughout the Province of Lusitania, especially in the capital at Merida.
The cobbled back road from Borba to Vila Vicosa is bordered by working
marble quarries and spoil heaps along its 5-km length.
Vila
Vicosa was the most attractive of the 3 towns. The back road from Borba led
to a huge free parking area in front of the impressive white marble Ducal
Palace, built in the early 16thC by the Braganca dynasty who ruled Portugal
until Dom Carlos was assassinated in 1908. The one-hour guided palace tour in
Portuguese didn't appeal! We walked up to the old walled town, as it had
finally stopped raining. Entry to the castle again meant a one-hour tour,
including a museum of hunting, so we admired the outside walls and looked in
the 18thC church of Our Lady of the Conception. Returning through the lower
town we saw the central square, Place of the Republic, all built of white
marble. There is even a marble museum in the old railway station – but it was
time to drive 60 miles or so back to Santo Antonio das Areias, via
Portalegre.
For more
images, Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/the-marble-towns.html
FROM
PORTUGAL INTO SPAIN
To Camping Isla de Puebla, Puebla de Sanabria,
Castilla y Leon - 263 miles (Height
2,972 ft)
Open Easter-30 Sept. See
www.isladepuebla.com. €22.50
per night, inc 10-amp electricity and
Free WiFi. Cash only. N 42.04930 W
6.63068
On a fine morning in mid-April Cliff & Chris,
our neighbours at Camping Asseiceira, skilfully manoeuvred their fifth-wheeler
out into the lane, as Gary hastily pruned the
olive trees and the rest of us stood by to shout STOP. We too set out to tow
our caravan on the long journey through Spain and France, exiting somewhat less dramatically after Felipe
had come by in the bread van. We shall very much miss this scenic and historic
corner of the High Alentejo and its friendly people, including the local
hairdresser who had transformed us both! Like many others, we came to Santo
Antonio for a few days and stayed a month.
We drove northwest past Castelo de Vide to join the
IP2 (good new highway) after 20 miles at Alpalhao. Continuing
north, this road descended to cross the River Tejo 16 miles later, down
at 300 ft/90 m – the border between the provinces of Alto Alentejo and Beira
Baixa – before climbing for 2 miles to join the A23 motorway at 650 ft/200 m.
This was a toll motorway, with electronic cameras at regular intervals working
on number plate recognition of vehicles registered for the system. There were
no toll-booths and no indication of how to pay (in advance or later). We'd
been advised by Portuguese residents and other travellers that no system had
yet been devised for charging foreign vehicles and that we should just forget
the tolls – so we did.
The virtually empty 4-lane motorway climbed
gradually past Castelo Branco, reaching 2,120 ft/642 m on entering a pair of
tunnels at 84 miles, then dropped to a service station 5 miles later at
1,360 ft/410 m. A lunch break here near Covilha on the edge of the Serra
de Estrela Natural Park, site of the country's highest mountain, Torre
(with a stone tower on the summit to bring it to 6,600 ft/2000
m!).
The A23 continued via a series of short tunnels to
Guarda (Portugal's highest city at 3,300
ft/1000 m) at 117 miles. Here we joined the A25 towards Celorico da Beira for
15 miles, leaving at exit 28a to take IP2 north for Braganza. This mostly
new road (not shown on our road atlas or SatNav) is a big improvement on
the twisting N102, which we had to take on incomplete sections, for example
where a new bridge is under construction across the River Douro. We
traversed a hilly landscape of red soil, olives and vines (no cork trees
since we left the Alentejo), our progress alternately fast and slow.
From Braganza at 235 miles the narrower rd 103-7 led
north through the bleak Montezhino
Natural Park. A campsite 7 miles along on the right was
firmly closed (as we knew, from phoning the Tourist Office earlier). We
climbed for another 8 miles up the winding river valley, past the tiny
villages of Franca and Portelo where horses ploughed the fields, to the top of
a pass marking the Spanish border at 2,690 ft/815 m.
Putting our watches forward an hour (this was
turning into a long day!), we entered the Zamora district of Castilla y Leon and continued on rd
925 across heather-clad moors. In Calabor, the next village, the plough was
pulled by a donkey. The road climbed above the tree line, reaching 3,625
ft/1100 m, before gently descending for the final 6 miles to the little
medieval town of Puebla de Sanabria.
Turn right at the sign, immediately after the
roundabout on entering town, to find the campsite down by the Rio Tera river.
Unusually the price for a car + caravan was considerably higher than a
motorhome but the Receptionist was not willing to discuss this, despite
speaking excellent English and repeatedly calling us 'Darling'! But there
was a cosy bar/restaurant/take-away on site in the old water mill and we
were more than ready for the excellent home-made burgers and chips it
supplied.
Continued at: Return to England through
Spain and France 2013
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