Along America's Loneliest Road, through Eureka and over 4 passes

The 3 miles into Ely crossed the Shoshone Reservation (a filling station, Laundromat and Smoke Shop). At the crossroads, US.6 turned south, but we continued west on US.50, the 'Loneliest Road', also known as the Lincoln Highway – the first trans-continental highway, from New York to San Francisco, completed in 1930. See www.lincolnhighway.com for its history.

The road climbed out of the town for 5 miles to the turning for Ruth (a working mine) at 6,720 ft, then crossed a scrubby plain which rose to 7,607 ft at Robinson Summit, 18 miles from Ely. We dropped 1,000 ft or so before the next ascent to Little Antelope Summit, 15 miles further on, at 7,433 ft, where we parked for lunch. The scenery was less dramatic than the snowy peaks and autumn colours of the Rockies, though the air was crisp and clear under the cloudless sky.

The road dropped steeply for 2 miles, then more gradually for another 7 miles to a low of 6,120 ft, followed by a 4-mile ascent to Pancake Summit, a low rise at 6,517 ft. Another 18 miles to our fourth pass, Pinto Summit in the Diamond Mountains, at 7,376 ft (crowned with a picnic area). Only 4 more miles down to Eureka (6,594 ft) – the first sign of civilisation since Ely, 78 miles back!

'Eureka' - you can imagine the call, when lead/silver was found here in 1864. By the 1880's it was a boomtown, with the usual catalogue: 16 smelters, 100 saloons, population 10,000, a railroad … By 1891 it had bust, the boomtown rats had deserted. Despite the remaining slag heaps at each end of Main Street, it is a pleasant one-street town today, with cafes, fuel, a library and motels (including a Best Western). We walked round in the afternoon sunshine to survey the restored Victorian Court House and Opera House (see www.co.eureka.nv.us and www.elynevada.net). The town museum is in the 'Eureka Sentinel' newspaper building (1879), which also houses the original equipment and presses. Entry is free and the custodian very friendly.

Our long straight road continued across more miles of shrubby plain, dropping then rising  to Hickison Summit at 6,568 ft, 48 miles later. We entered the Toiyabe National Forest 12 miles further on, down at 6,000 ft, then climbed for 9 miles to the highest point of the day, the Austin Summit at 7,484 ft.

A steep drop over the next 3 miles, leaving the Forest and hairpinning past silver and turquoise mine workings, old and new, brought us down to Austin, at 6,672 ft. As we entered the small town, its history paralleling that of Eureka, we passed a deserted RV Park, apparently abandoned. Enquiring at the splendidly restored Chamber of Commerce/Courthouse, we were directed back to it. It appears to belong to a tiny Baptist Church - the office is locked, the laundry and toilets long-closed, the dump point overgrown, but the electric hook-up works and we settled in for a quiet night. Here in Nevada, we can again buy wine – or even play the slot machines - at any supermarket (unlike Utah or Colorado). So a nice bottle of Chianti accompanied our pork chops (purely medicinal, to fight off colds, of course). See also www.austinnevada.com

Austin's historic buildings include St Augustine's, the oldest Roman Catholic church in Nevada (1866), undergoing restoration. There is also a library, petrol, cafes and 3 small motels (Anne Mustoe stayed at the Mountain Motel when cycling this stretch of her trans-continental route).

The legendary Pony Express riders came through Austin, delivering mail between Missouri and California – 2,000 miles in 10 days or less. The service lasted only 18 months, from 1860 to 1861, when the completion of the transcontinental telegraph line made it redundant. The most famous of the daring riders was 'Buffalo Bill' Cody and recruiting posters asked for 'Young skinny wiry fellows – not over 18 – must be expert riders willing to risk death daily – orphans preferred'! Visit www.ponyexpressnevada.com and www.greatbasinpark.com               

October 22     186 miles     CARSON CITY, Super 8 Motel    ($46.19)

Through Pony Express Territory to the Capital of the Silver State (Nevada)

Not detained by WiFi internet (or any other camp facilities), we had an early start from Austin and left indebted to the Baptists. US.50 continued west in a long straight descent (dropping 1,000 ft in the first 5 miles). We regained height over the next 14 miles, climbing gently to Mt Airy Summit at 6,680 ft.

Then 4 miles down and 2 miles up again to New Pass Summit at 6,348 ft. The road dropped more steeply from here, through a rocky defile. We paused 3 miles down at the fenced stone remains of a Pony Express station, whose new interpretive sign had already been removed.

Across another flat basin with a salt lake, we came to Cold Springs at 5,527 ft, 51 miles from Austin. The tiny station has a homely café, RV Park and petrol. Anne Mustoe describes spending a night on the floor of an empty trailer, but now a brand new lodge with motel rooms awaits the cyclist! The stone ruins of the old Cold Springs Station are 2 miles further on – the Wells Fargo Stagecoach from Salt Lake City halted here (1866-69), opposite the old Pony Express station, and to the north are the ruins of a telegraph repeater station. How much faster and safer is communication today, yet we still complain when there is no mobile phone signal or wireless internet!

Another 12 miles to Old Middlegate Station, at the junction of US.361 (south) at 4,600 ft. This former Pony Express stage now has a café (busy serving pancakes and sausages to motorbikers at 11 am), as well as petrol, RV park and motel cabins. The board announced 'population 18', now crossed out and changed to 17 – someone escaped! The signs of farming round the station – trees, a windmill pump, a crop of hardy wheat, a few horses – soon gave way to sagebrush flats again. The surrounding hills are still white, but with salt rather than snow.

After crossing the Fallon Naval Target Range (part of which, a large salt lake, extends on both sides of the road), down at 4,140 ft, the road climbed up to Sand Springs Pass, 20 miles after Middlegate, at 4,630 ft. A surprise awaited us 4 miles down – a car park with a view of 'Sand Mountain', 2 miles off the main road along a gravel track to the north. This 600-ft high sand dune, looming over the plain and the huge salt lake ahead of us, has become one of Nevada's playgrounds. We paused for lunch and watched in amazement. A 'base camp' of motorhomes and trailers of all sizes was all but lost in the shadow of the dune.

What looked like insects buzzed up and down it – sandbikes, sandbuggies, sandboarders – all at play on this fine Saturday afternoon. The environmentally-challenged (well, mentally challenged) paid a fee to access the Sand Mountain Recreation Area for 'adrenaline-filled sand-churning off-road action' (quote from Nevada Commission on Tourism's 'Pony Express Territory' map). We wondered how long this remnant of a prehistoric inland sea might last? The adjacent Sand Springs Pony Express Station ruins are only accessible by dune-buggy!

For the next 10 miles, the highway crossed Salt Wells Basin (also known as Eight-mile Flat), an enormous salt pan, shimmering bleached white. Then trees and green fields heralded the approach of Fallon, with a petrol station at Harman Junction 4 miles before the busy (and characterless) city. Fallon has all the services we have come to expect, including 2 busy RV parks (which also hire out dune-buggies). See www.fallontourism.com for more – we didn't linger.

After 9 miles, US.50 divides, our left fork leading south-west to Carson City. We passed Lahontan Reservoir – wonderful to see a body of fresh blue water – before coming to the crossroads of Silver Springs, 27 miles from Fallon. The café, petrol station, casino and simple motel serves the sparse Indian community, but the place does have a website at www.silverspringsnevada.com.

For the final 35 miles into Carson City, US.50 loses its 'Loneliest Road' tag and becomes increasingly busy. Its way along the Dayton Valley is dotted with isolated petrol stations, casinos and bars until Dayton itself. The town was the site of Nevada's first gold rush in 1849 but is now a soulless satellite town with a shopping mall.

Reaching Carson City (on the Carson River, named after Kit) – the Silver State's capital, at 4,715 ft and with a population of 55,200 (about the same as Scunthorpe) – we turned south at the junction with US.395. This is South Carson Street, along which lie the Senate buildings, museums and large casinos. After refuelling (at $2.76 a gallon, cheapest yet) we found the haven of a Super 8 motel, just 0.75 miles past the State Capital, costing little more than the packed RV parks linked to casinos. Price included excellent WiFi internet, TV, bath, breakfast, 24-hr coffee, use of microwave, large car park … Visit www.super8.com for a change! And see www.visitcarsoncity.com for tourist info.

October 23  105 miles  LEE VINING, Mono Vista RV Park, CALIFORNIA ($24.69)

Return to California and Mono Lake, at the eastern gateway to Yosemite National Park  

Checked out of the motel at 11 am, by which time it had warmed up to 67 degrees. Going south on US.395, after 1.25 miles we passed the junction with US.50 (which turns right for Lake Tahoe – a possible future cycle route for us). We stayed on the 395 another 11 miles to Minden and Gardnerville at 4,720 ft, which is where Anne Mustoe's cycle route turns off on US.88.

Continuing south-east on the 395, we drove through a pleasant valley of farmland, a fish hatchery on the Carson River and small housing developments. 20 miles from Carson City the traffic was much lighter and the road began to climb, almost reaching 6,000 ft before dropping to the Topaz Lake which crosses the Nevada/California border, 36 miles from Carson City at 5,048 ft. 'Welcome to Antelope Valley' said the Scenic Byways sign, the road lined with stately trees in golden autumn colours.

Tiny Topaz village was 4 miles along, then another 8 miles to Walker, at 5,368 ft, with a population of 700, a few motels, a good place for lunch. We followed the West Walker River which tumbled prettily downhill on our left, as we climbed up through pines into the Toiyabe National Forest, with glimpses of snow on the peaks ahead.

24 miles into California, we turned left at Sonora Junction (7,000 ft) to climb for 8 miles in the Sweetwater Mountains to Devil's Gate at 7,519 ft. Then a 12-mile descent to Bridgport at 6,464 ft, past a (sadly closed) motel/RV park near the entrance to Bodie State History Park where we might have stayed. Climbing again, we crossed Conway Summit at 8,140 ft, 13 miles after Bridgport. Just a mile further is a splendid panorama over the Western Edge of the Great Basin, with a view of the road winding down to Mono Lake, ringed in hills and higher peaks beyond.

After a winding 5-mile drop, down at 6,800 ft, we entered the Mono Basin Scenic Area. The road ran alongside the saline Mono Lake, home to shoals of salt shrimp, insects and birds (though too saline for fish). Called in the new Mono Lake Visitor Centre, watched an interesting video about the area (Of Ice and Fire), and stopped in the next village, Lee Vining – population 398 (3 of  whom run a friendly campground).  

October 24  78 miles  YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, Upper Pines Camp  ($18.00)

Across the Sierra Nevada in Yosemite National Park and into its 'Incomparable Valley'

A mile out of Lee Vining we turned onto US.20, the old mining road (upgraded in the 1960's) which runs through Yosemite Park. We were soon climbing into the Inyo National Forest, reaching 8,000 ft in 5 miles. Parking by Ellery Lake (4 miles higher up, at 9,510 ft), we met Tom Burnside (Motorsport Photographer and Archivist from Santa Rosa) and found he had known all the racing champions from Stirling Moss onwards and was also a friend of the founder of Bradford's Museum of Film and Photography. We talked of Yorkshire, travel, photography – all subjects dear to Barry's heart! He is also to be found at www.tomburnside.com. Our beautiful route continued past Tioga Lake, camping and nature trails, then Tioga Lodge (food and cabins – closed).

The National Park boundary is at the top of Tioga Pass, California's highest road pass, on the crest of the Sierra Nevada at 9,945 ft, 4 miles after Ellery. We showed our NP Pass (saving the 7-day entry fee of $20), collected our map and park guide book and continued through the tall pine forest. Today is wonderfully clear and sunny, but this road will soon be closed for winter (Nov to May). 

Still at 8,600 ft, 6 miles into the Park, we stopped below the Lembert Dome for a walk on its smooth granite slope before lunch. On past the Tuolumne Visitor Centre (closed) and the Pothole Dome (these granite domes rise bare out of the forest, gleaming above the treeline). Before reaching the long Tenaya Lake, we paused below Midicott Dome to watch 2 pairs of expert rock climbers perched high above.

45 miles from the Park entrance, down at 6,800 ft, we reached the junction near Crane Flat and turned left along road 41 (Big Oak Flat Rd). After 6 miles, through a short tunnel, we had our first breathtaking view of the Merced River in the Yosemite Valley below. The road dropped for 4 miles to cross the river down at 3,877 ft, and we stopped less than a mile later below the massive face of El Capitan – the world's largest granite monolith (rising 3,593 ft from its base to a height of 7,569 ft), which attracts many climbers to scale its sheer walls. A footpath opposite, through the forest of Californian Black Oaks, led to the base of the Bridal Veil Falls and we took the obligatory walk (1.6 miles return), though the wisp of water dropping 620 ft against the sheer canyon wall is presumably more impressive after snow-melt than after a dry summer.

The amount of traffic and visitors is much higher on this western side of the Park. Yosemite Village, 5 miles on, is a confusing and crowded mess of shops, shuttle buses and a car park which is half a mile from the Visitor Centre! The campground reservation office lies a mile along the road (follow signs to 'Curry Village and Camping') and you will be allocated a place (if available) on one of 3campgrounds, none of which have hook-ups. North Pines camp had closed (April-Sept), Lower Pines (March-Oct) is full, so here we are on the larger (open all year) Upper Pines Campground. Squeezed in narrow pitches under the trees, alongside neighbours mostly in RV's with a few in tents, we are provided with flush toilets, cold water (no showers), and bear-proof trash dumpsters and metal food-storage lockers (for those in tents).

A few outdoor types have lit bonfires in the allotted places to keep the wild beasts away – there are 500 or so black bears (not to mention the mountain lions) sharing Yosemite with us! The forecast storm may be on its way, as rain is pattering on the roof, though it's warm, down in the forest at 3,990 ft – the lowest we've been for over 3 weeks! (71 degrees at 10 pm, without heating). This is our home until 10 am tomorrow (check-out time). And for this, we pay over £10!

See www.yosemitepark.com and www.americanparknetwork.com and www.nps.gov/yose for more on this famous park, established in 1890, which is 1,169 square miles in area.

October 25     104 miles     SAN ANDREAS, Gold Strike Village    ($25.00)

Cycling in Yosemite Valley, then on to San Andreas (nobody's fault)

A wonderful morning after a thundery night, with shafts of early sunlight filtering through the misty trees. We relocated to Curry Village car park before 10 am (it's in the Rules!), unloaded the bikes and explored the Yosemite Valley – 12 miles of rock, light and water. Along the Merced River to the Happy Isles (Nature Center closed for winter), then up Tenaya Creek to Mirror Lake (dry in autumn). The tracks were quiet - open only to hikers, bikers and the occasional shuttle bus – and we saw several deer. We rode back to Yosemite Village, then along past the Lodge to the base of Yosemite Falls. The Upper and Lower Falls together comprise the world's 5th highest falls (a drop of 2,425 ft) – our guidebook listed the Top 10, from Angel Falls in Venezuela down to Kjellfossen in Norway. The height was impressive, though water volume low at this time of year.

After the beautiful 12-mile ride, we had lunch and drove up the Valley, returning through the short tunnels and along Big Oak Flat Road for 17 miles to Crane Flat. We took US.120 climbing to 5,617 ft after 7 miles, then dropping 1,000 ft in the next 5 miles to the National Park exit. Continuing through the Stanislaus National Forest, we descended rapidly, coming down off the Sierra Nevada.

We dropped through Buck Meadows (3,000 ft), out of the Forest and through Groveland (population 1,500) 20 miles after the Park exit. The road was narrow, twisting, very scenic and steep for another 5 miles, then a more gradual descent to the New Don Pedro Reservoir, right down at 879 ft. After bridging the water, it climbed again for 12 miles, to 1,280 ft at Chinese Camp. Here we turned right for Jamestown (town?), through 17 miles of cattle breeding country (Montezuma Angus ranches). A short cut from there, via Rawhide on a narrow lane shared with logging trucks, took us to Tuttletown on US.49, past a sign for Mark Twain's cabin.

Just before Angels Camp, 14 miles further on, we came to an RV Park. At $48 a night (including Good Sam discount), we made a rapid withdrawal and continued – the highest price yet (and more than we paid for a motel room in Carson City!) We have apparently entered 'Gold Country' – Sacramento's playground.

Luckily, at San Andreas (15 miles along the road), we struck gold ourselves! On Gold Strike Road we found a large RV Park with just one place left, free WiFi internet and a more reasonable price. The 'Village' - mostly semi-permanent mobile homes – is on the site of the Kate Hageman Gold Mine. Down at 800 ft, we found it warm, though the occupants complained of the cold (64 degrees!)

October 26     181 miles     PLACERVILLE, K-Mart Car Park    

Back into the Sierra Nevada

After looking at the relics of the gold mine (a tunnel entrance nestled below the oak-studded hillside and a caved-in 'glory hole' above), we left the Gold Strike residents (for a day, a week, a month or forever …)

Continuing north on US.49, we climbed to 1,545 ft at Mokelumne Hill, down to 655 ft to cross Mokelumne River, then up to Jackson at 1,200 ft, 14 miles in all. At this historic mining town (population 3,500) we stocked up at Safeway and the Shell service station before turning north on US.88, 'America's Most Scenic Highway' – we missed the mountains and wanted to check Anne Mustoe's cycle route across the Sierra Nevada to Carson City.

US.88 climbed to Pinegrove, 8 miles along at 2,300 ft, a busy shopping centre where we had difficulty parking for lunch. Rain drizzled and it was cooler, at 56 degrees. From here, the route became emptier. The sign indicated 43 miles to Silver Lake, 95 to Carson City (with Kit Carson Pass between them).

(For full details of heights and distances see the Cyclist's Route Table at ***). The villages of Pioneer and Buckhorn had shops and cafes, but the next accommodation was a series of roadside inns starting 19 miles from Jackson – the Deer Ridge Inn, Pioneer Inn and Black Station Inn, at 4,000 ft.

Cook's Station and Ham's Station (an old stage-coach inn), at 26 and 30 miles from Jackson, had food but no rooms. After another 3 miles, we entered El Dorado Forest, as the rain fell and the cloud descended at 6,000 ft. No view today from the vista point at 6,737 ft, 5 miles on!

Past a sign for the Mormon Emigrant Trail and up to 8,000 ft (48 miles from Jackson) before leaving the Forest for the descent to Silver Lake. Kay's Resort, by the water at 7,272 ft, was closed but appeared to offer only food. Another climb to the Lake Kirkwood turnoff (7,836 ft), past a turning for a ski resort 2 miles off the road, and so to the Kirkwood Inn at 7,680 ft, 59 miles from Jackson. Again, this offered food but no rooms.  Another mile uphill is Caples Lake Resort, by the lake, at 7,820 ft. Anne Mustoe had stayed here, but the sign said 'Closed till Holidays' (which holidays?) Still 50 miles to Carson City.

Kit Carson Pass is just 4 miles further, at 8,575 ft, topped with a modern memorial to pioneer 'Snowshoe Thompson' who died in 1876. We didn't linger, as the rain had turned to sleet and we had neither snowshoes nor chains on board! Kit Carson was a trapper, who led Captain John Fremont over the Sierra Nevada in 1844, opening up the wagon route followed by thousands of emigrants to California: go west, young man!

We left Anne's route 9 miles down, at 7,100 ft, turning left onto US.89 to link with US.50 from Lake Tahoe. It climbed again for 3 miles, over Luther Pass at 7,740 ft, then steeply down for 8 miles to meet US.50 at 6,345 ft (8 miles west of Lake Tahoe). We turned left towards Sacramento – another possible cycle route to Carson City (which we later discounted!) We soon passed a KOA camp, which had closed for the winter. The road climbed again for 4 miles to 7,360 ft, then down through the El Dorado Forest again, past a ski resort. It was raining hard and wet grey rocks shone like snow in our headlights.

The lovely Strawberry Lodge at 5,714 ft, 13 miles along US.50, had food and rooms priced for skiers; the Kyburz Motel, 9 miles lower down at 4,100 ft, looked more affordable. After another 16 miles at Pollock Pines, US.51 became a freeway for the last 15 miles into Placerville. We reached the city (2,000 ft) as it went dark, and droved another 6 miles west to find the next campground, a KOA at Shingle Springs. The office had closed at 7 pm (we arrived at 7.02 pm to find the whole site dark and deserted, with a note indicating 2 awkward places left, at a price of $32).

Weary of being overcharged for what amounts to an overnight parking place, we drove back to Placerville and the large K-Mart we had spotted from the freeway. With permission from the Customer Service Dept ('of course, no problem, you're welcome'), we spent a free night in a corner of their car park. The rumour that they (and Wal Mart) welcome RV's appears to be true – though no-one mentioned the noise of the outside sweeping machines once the store closed at 10 pm!

That was all we saw of Placerville, 'Gateway to the Sierras and Lake Tahoe', also known as 'Hangtown'. (Three men, found guilty of robbery and murder at the height of the Gold Rush, were hanged from a tree here in 1849.) We did see plenty of the pine forests, green foothills and steep granite slopes which lead into the Sierra Nevada, mostly through the rain which keeps it all verdant. See www.visit-eldorado.com for more.   

October 27     279 miles     WEED, Trailer Lane RV Park    ($24.30) – Good Sam

West to Sacramento, then North by North

The rain had ceased, we woke early (K-Mart opens at 8 am) and were away before 9 am.

West on busy I-50, descending through the low El Dorado hills and vineyards for 30 miles to Sacramento. We had no desire to explore California's state capital, with a population of 417,711 and an elevation of just 20 ft. The interstates took us smoothly through the city for another 10 miles before we turned north on I-5. We passed Sacramento International Airport 11 miles further on, just before crossing the Sacramento River, and finally escaped the metropolis.

Woodland (population 52,000, height 32 ft) looked like a huge new housing development set amidst vast fields of grain, though a sign pointed to a 'Historic District' which we found hard to imagine, as we passed industrial estates in another kind of desert.

Cruise control set at 55 mph, we continued north (even overtaking a freight train – nice to pass something!) We stopped for petrol at Zamora, 70 miles from Placerville, after which this Central Valley of California turned to serious farming. We saw fields of fluffy white cotton, plantations of almond trees, olive groves, sheep and goats – all of which might have reminded us of Greece had the landscape not been so flat and open. This is one of the world's most productive farming areas, yet it looks somehow barren, devoid of charm.

We noticed many large (and we mean large) RV's heading south on the opposite carriageway, usually towing a car behind – the Snowbird Migration has begun. As we passed between the Delvan and the Sacramento National Wildlife Refuges, we saw 3 pelicans sharing the water with the wildfowl, and hills began to rise to the west.

There were regular Rest Areas, with toilets and picnic tables, and we paused for lunch just after Corning, the 'Olive City', now at 285 ft, with a record 154 miles since breakfast!

Our next stop, 47 miles along, was at the excellent RV-Center (next to Green Acres RV park) in the south side of Redding, just off I-5. We found the remaining items on our RV shopping list (and a few more!), then rejoined the Interstate north. Over the next 5 miles were a succession of RV dealers, all with plenty of shiny white vehicles, mostly with slide-outs (the living space expands widthways!)

The road climbed to 1,215 ft as it crossed the Shasta Lake (held back by the USA's second highest concrete dam). The water was very low. Back among forests and mountains, we felt more at home. A sign warned of bears crossing! There were plenty of RV Parks along this migration route and we turned off at Mt Shasta City (at 3,500 ft and 268 miles from Placerville) to check the KOA. Again it was overpriced ($28 for a small sloping pitch); again we declined.

Just 10 miles north, we turned off at Weed ('Weed like to welcome you'), its population (3,000) less than its height (3,760 ft), which is a good sign! It's a historic lumber town, less pretentious than Mt Shasta City, with a friendly RV Park in the shadow of Mt Shasta (14,162 ft), its top lost in snow and cloud!

To the Oregon border, then back down the Klamath River to California's Pacific Coast

North on Interstate 5, out of the Shasta Forest and across the Shasta River. In the fine drizzle, a rainbow played over the cloudy hillside where a mounted cowboy was rounding up cattle. After 26 miles, at 2,790 ft, Yreka was the last town in California, with several motels and a couple of RV parks. We climbed for another 9 miles to Anderson Summit (3,067 ft) and on to the Oregon border, 50 miles from Weed, at 3,574 ft.

Just a mile into Oregon, we exited I-50 to turn and re-enter California, following logging trucks south through heavy rain. 11 miles from the border, at 2,060 ft, we turned west onto the wonderfully quiet US.96 – the Klamath River Highway, rightly designated a 'scenic byway'. The road follows the Klamath, part of the 'National Wild and Scenic River System', down through the Klamath Forest to Willow Creek. The autumn colours along the river banks displayed every shade of gold and russet, and we spotted grey squirrels, a grey heron and a couple of deer.

There are small settlements along the way: after 15 miles came Klamath River village (population 150) at 1,770 ft, with a rancher offering to 'hang and custom-cut your game' and an RV park for fishermen. Another 14 miles to Horse Creek (pop 115), with a wooden church and a phone box, deep in the forest where we ate lunch. 6 miles further to Hamburg (pop 280 – wonder where they all live?) with cabins and a fishing supplies store, then 9 miles to Seiad Valley (pop 350) at 1,367 ft with a store and RV park.

The road climbed a low wooded pass, Cade Mountain at 1,748 ft, before reaching Happy Camp at 1,220 ft (and a pop of 1,110). This town declares itself 'Steelhead Capital of the World' (something to do with fishing). We're now in 'Big Foot' country (a sort of Yeti, represented by a large grotesque metal figure).

As the rain eased, we turned south through the Marble Mt Wilderness, crossing the Klamath River several times on new bridges – a superb road. Somes Bar, where the Salmon River turns off, 100 miles from the start of the scenic byway down at 700 ft, has rustic stores and a school – the ubiquitous yellow school bus was just leaving with its cargo of mixed infants. At Orleans, 8 miles further down, a new suspension bridge crossed the ever widening Klamath. At Weitchpek, 14 miles on at a mere 345 ft, we entered the Hoopa Valley Indian Reservation.

The forest began to clear as we crossed the Reservation, then came to Willow Creek (pop 1,743) 44 miles after Somes Bar, at 489 ft, with shops, motels, petrol, museum and visitor centre (both closed). Turning west onto US.299 for Eureka, we had another climb to Berry Summit (2,800 ft), 22 miles later, then it was downhill to the sea – the Pacific Ocean!

27 miles from Berry Summit, we reached the coast road US.101 at Arcata, and turned south for the final 10 miles to Eureka (pop 28,600, elevation 0 ft). Once a rough lumber town and seaport, it is now an elegant town noted for its waterfront and Victorian mansions. See www.eurekachamber.com and www.redwoods.info.

As the KOA camp wanted $38 for place with WiFi, we opted for a room. Competition among the dozens of motels along 4th Street kept prices low and we enjoyed the luxury of baths, TV (ER, 24, The Vicar of Dibley …) and a heated indoor pool and spa. Website and email correspondence were updated and we even got an extra hour, as the clocks were put back!

October 30     103 miles     MYERS FLAT, Giant Redwoods RV Camp     ($24.00)

Round the Lost Coast Loop and through the Humboldt Redwoods State Park

A stroll on the waterfront boardwalk to photograph the Victorian woodwork, including the Carson Mansion (or gingerbread castle), described as 'Gothic Queen Anne style'!  It was built in 1866 for lumber baron William Carson, in order to provide work during a slump in the lumber industry, but is now a private club.

Then south on US.101 for 15 miles, where we turned off across a narrow 'historic' bridge over the Eel River, to follow the Lost Coast Loop. 5 miles on is the 'Cream Town' of Ferndale, with more fine wooden Victorian architecture, a museum and a working cheese factory.

The road now became narrow and rough, winding its way uphill for 8 miles to 1,874 ft and a view of the ocean. A 7-mile descent to a farm by the coastal estuary, then up to 803 ft and down again to sea level in the next 4 miles. This is more like New Zealand, with damp green hills, sheep and cattle, twisting lanes and a wild, rocky coast! We passed the site of what was once the USA's westernmost lighthouse, then turned inland and crossed the Mattole River to Petrolia – a village with church and school at 129 ft in the middle of the wilderness, 30 miles from Ferndale.

Following the Mattole River south-west for 14 miles to Honeydew (at 340 ft) involved more hills. Here we crossed a wooden one-lane bridge worthy of New Zealand, and turned north-west towards the Humboldt Redwoods State Park (the largest of California's redwood parks: 60,000 acres). Serious climbing (max 2,726 ft with dizzy views over the forest) followed. We reached the Park entrance (2,664 ft), 52 miles from Ferndale, at 2.30 pm and descended Mattole Road (the only road through) without seeing another vehicle on a fine Sunday afternoon! After 8 miles, down at 280 ft, we were suddenly dwarfed by the Rockefeller Forest section – the biggest uncut virgin redwood grove in the world (they only grow in California). We learnt that these sequoia sempervirens trees live for up to 2,000 years and can grow up to 370 ft. The redwood ecosystem produces 7-9 times the biomass of the Amazon Rainforest (whatever that means – sounds impressive).

Stopping for a short walk among these giants was eery – they are just so high, they block out the light. Even the trunks of those which have fallen are scary – like encountering a beached whale or a slaughtered elephant. After 6 miles of this, it was something of a relief to meet US.101 again – the way out! We took the parallel minor road (the Avenue of Giants) south to Weott, where there is an unpowered campground next to a splendid Visitor Centre. The exhibition includes the 'Travel-log': an amazing motorhome hewn from a 22 ft length of fallen redwood, used to promote saving the redwood forest during WWI.

A few miles further, at Myers Flat (pop 200 and home to one of the 'drive-thru trees'), is the Giant Redwoods RV Camp, right on the Eel River in the heart of the forest. Uniquely, the camping price is net of tax (usually 10% or more) – Humboldt County fought and won exemption from this surcharge on camping, since it's a tax on beds (and we bring our own)! Wish this idea would catch on! We had a peaceful night after a long and dramatic day!

Visit the trees at www.hps.gov/redw or www.humboldtredwoods.org or www.parks.ca.gov. 

October 31      273 miles     MILL VALLEY, Tamalpais Motel     $64.90

A long slow scenic drive round the Shoreline Highway of the Californian Coast

The Avenue of Giants (US.254) continued south for 5 miles to Miranda (a school and petrol station), the level road bordered by giant redwoods. Phillipsville, 4 miles on, has a small motel built of wood, like most everything else. In another 3 miles, our road joined

Highway 101, which had run parallel on the opposite bank of the Eel River.

The 101 (Redwood Highway) passed a turning for Redway (just a motel/Good Sam RV  Park and a 20-mile dead-end road to the coast), then the exit for Garberville (19 miles from Myers Flat). This 'ville' is a larger town, with Best Western Motel and petrol and propane for us. The Highway then narrowed from 4 lanes to 2, through the Richardson State Park (5 miles of tall timber), followed by some tourist attractions: huge chainsaw-cut wooden sculptures at the Puzzle Place, opposite an RV Park; the Chimney Tree (a 1,500-year-old redwood turned into a tree-house gift shop); a café advertising 'locally raised beefburgers'(!); a woodcarving workshop with larger-than-life bears.

After Standish-Hickey State Park, we left US.101 at Leggett (population 315, elevation 984 ft), 25 miles from Garberville. Here we visited the famous Chandelier Drive-Thru tree in a privately-owned park (entry $5 per vehicle). Cars can still drive through, though motorhomes would lose their roof! Still thriving, despite its mutilation in the 1950's, the tree stands 315 ft high with a base diameter of 21 ft, an impressive sight.

Rather than following US.101 directly to San Francisco, we turned onto the Shoreline Highway, number 1 on our map, which turned out to be extremely scenic, though unimaginably slow going. It began with a climb to 1,488 ft, up and down, narrow and twisting, through endless forest with an occasional woodcutter's business. After 22 miles, we met the coast, 230 ft below, and followed the rocky shoreline along the cliff-tops. We lunched by the Western Union Landing State Beach, with a view of outlying rocks and small fishing boats. Here was a splendid basic campground, with steps down to the beach, but we were hoping to reach San Rafael for dinner with friends. A couple of miles further on is a Good Sam RV Park at Westport Beach, then the village of Westport (pop 238), with charming fishermen's cottages offering bed & breakfast, 28 miles from Leggett.

The coastal road is magnificent, reminding us of Australia's Great Ocean Road but with less (in fact, no) traffic. The next 8 miles led through tunnels of trees in MacKerricher State Park to Inglenook village. Here we saw a pair of bearded cyclists, fully loaded, riding the Pacific Coast Bike Route (from Vancouver down to San Diego). This is a tough section, constantly up and down on a narrow road with no shoulder to avoid the occasional logging truck. (The southern end, Los Angeles to San Diego, we rode at the start of our crossing to Florida.)

Cleone, the next village (pop 570), has a store/RV Park. There is more accommodation at Fort Bragg, the largest coastal town between Eureka and San Francisco (pop 5,500), 42 miles after Leggett. It offers several motels, a cycle shop, fast and slow food, petrol, and the Harbor RV Park by the estuary of the Noyo River. The Skunk Railway (built for timber and now for tourists) and a scenic road both run inland to Willits on Highway 101. We stayed on the coast road, which now became smoother, broader and busier as far as Mendocino (pop over 1,000), a town with fine wooden houses.

On along the Mendocino Headlands State Park Coast and the Van Damme State Park, with less trees and more wild coastal views. At Elk (pop 250), 145 ft above the sea and 29 miles after Fort Bragg, there was a church, school, shop, café and a guest house or two. The road continued to rise and fall, past rocky coves and across river mouths. Manchester, 13 miles further, had a shop, school and extremely expensive KOA campground. There was another RV Park and café at Point Arena, 4 miles on, near a lighthouse museum and several overgrown Victorian cemeteries.

The road had become very narrow and winding again and we sympathised with the second pair of cyclists we passed. More seaside villages with the odd motel or shop followed: Anchor Bay with an RV Park; Gualala (pop 595) with cafés and petrol, 20 miles after Manchester.

Continuing through Stewart's Point (just a store) and the Salt Point State Park, darkness fell. Deer were emerging from the woods in our path and San Rafael was clearly beyond our reach. We turned into Bodega Bay RV Park after a slow 201 miles and phoned our apologies to Sally and friends.

But the drive was not over! Reception had closed and enquiries revealed that only unpowered sites were available, at well over $30. Hoping to find another campground along the coast, we wearily drove on through the evening. Sadly, we saw nothing until the bright lights of Marin City (north of the Golden Gate Bridge)! We had to take a late motel room on the Redwood Highway, 72 miles from Bodega Bay.

TABLES OF DISTANCES, FUEL AND COSTS

Barry and Margaret Williamson

The following tables of distances, fuel and costs are for the 52-day motorhome journey around seven Western States of the USA. A full-log of the journey will be found at (here) and our Travel Notes USA is (here).
 

Item	Metric	USA
Total Distance	9296 km	5,810 miles
No of Days	52	52
Average Distance	84 km/day	112 miles/day
No of Places Stayed	42	42
Average Stay	1.24 days	1.24 days
Total Fuel Used	1,697 litres	448 US gallons
Fuel Consumption	5.48 km/litre	12.96 mpUSg
Total Fuel Cost	UK £795	US $1,360
Cost	UK £0.47/L	US $3.03/US Gall

 

Item	Total Cost	Average Daily Cost (52 days)
Food	£314	£6.03
Camping	£1,033	£19.86
Post & Email	£53	£1.02
Sundries	£41	£0.79
Eating out	£56	£1.08
Petrol (Gas)	£826	£15.88
Total Costs	£2,323	£44.66

 

Notes

1.  Camping means a partial hookup (electricity and water) for 2 adults, typically over US$ 25 per night. A 'full hookup' includes sewage outlet and cable TV and costs a few dollars more. A few times we took a motel room at around US$60.

2.  Post and Email includes telephone cards for public phones.

3.  Sundries include laundry, postcards, entry fees to museums, National and State Parks, Golden Gate Bridge toll, etc.

4.  Petrol is slightly cheaper than diesel (which few people use).

5. Food was usually bought from Safeway, Walmart or similar supermarkets and cooked in the motorhome.

6. Eating Out includes coffees and occasional fast food.

7. Fuel Consumption of 12.96 miles per US gallon can also be expressed as 15.56 miles per Imperial gallon or 18.25 litres per 100 km.