A Short Tour of Ireland

Cindy Webb
July 2013

Deciding to spend the month of July in Ireland, we set off to explore the north coast (having travelled along the south and east coasts on a previous trip).

Catching the ferry from Pembroke to Rosslare, we started with 3 days in Wexford – a good campsite just a short cycle ride over the harbour bridge to the delightful town of Wexford .

Then it was northwards to explore Dublin, taking the open-top tour bus to get a feel of the place before spending a few days exploring on foot. We especially enjoyed the Waterways Centre on the Grand Canal and strolling around Temple Bar on a quiet, weekday morning, as well as the Post Office on O'Connell Street with a very interesting museum set in an outstanding building.  

Then more sunshine on the Causeway Coast: staying on a farm overlooking the rugged coastline, we walked to the Giant's Causeway and cycled to Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, took the bus to Ballycastle and the ferry over to Rathlin Island to see the nesting puffins, gannets, guillemots and many more … oh, and of course had the odd taste of the local dark brew with the creamy head … mmm.  A note here that, contrary to local signs, the National Trust, the Tourist Office et al, entry to the Giant's Causeway is FREE! Just walk along the coastal way from the east or walk through the car park round the very smart Visitors Centre where, on the board explaining their charge of £15 per person, you will see a very small footnote that “ENTRY TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY IS FREE”!  The shuttle bus is £1 for the 1 km ride down (or back up) but it is a fairly easy walk.

Next, it was westward to explore Donegal, which is reputed to be the “wild child of Ireland”. We toured the windswept beaches and rugged coastline and totally agree. Oh, and, of course, the now to be expected Irish charm and welcome. 

We followed the coast in an anti-clockwise direction, stopping in secluded bays and on towering cliffs. We included Dungloe on our tour … does anyone remember “Mary from Dungloe”, a hit song of the 60s?  We don't.  However, the town has just celebrated its 46th Mary from Dungloe Festival – 10 days devoted to Mary!  Luckily, we passed through 2 days before the start but preparations (bunting, beer deliveries, events planned) were nearing fruition.  Southwards we trekked – stopping to climb the tallest cliffs in Europe.  Taller than the Cliffs of Moher, but their gentle sweeps into the sea were not as majestic as those at Moher.

Then inland to explore the Shannon-Erne Waterway, renovated in 1994 as a symbolic link between NI and the Republic.  Ireland has an extensive waterways network, with canals joining various rivers and lochs to give a pretty broad coverage, east to west and south to north.  A few days later we met up with Martin's best man (both marriages!). Tom and Irene now live in a delightful house near Glasson in the Midlands of Ireland, a delightful backwater which Oliver Goldsmith described as the “loveliest village of the plain” (now it has 3 'gastro-pubs', one of which we sampled and enjoyed).

With only a few days left, we spent a few days in County Wicklow then  completed our circuit at Wexford before catching the ferry homeward.  A month of glorious sunshine (except for a few days of rain) contrasted with our previous visit, which was a month of non-stop rain.  We counted ourselves blessed!

Campsites

We had no trouble finding campsites – some from the website, others from the Caravan Club Site Book and Camperstop Europe 2012.  Here is a list:

Wexford  - Ferry Banks Campsite €27

Dublin – Camak Camping €27

Bushmills - Feigh Farm £14

Dunfanaghy - Beach car park, free

Dungloe – Dungloe Camping €23

Killybegs – Killybegs Holiday Park (don't get excited, just a field but excellent views) €22

Battlebridge – Battlebridge Caravan & Camping Park €24

Redcross, Wicklow – River Valley Holiday Park €27