Rudds on the Road in Morocco 2013

Continued from: In Spain on the Road to Morocco 2013

Continued at: In Spain on the Road to France 2013  

Brian and Patricia Rudd
January 2014 

Introduction 

Brian and Patricia left England in June 2013 for what became a 105-day motorhome journey. They travelled through France and Spain to Morocco. Following a 30-day tour of Morocco, they returned to England, again through Spain and Spain. They  give detailed information on their journey, including co-ordinates, on all the places they spent a night, specialising in finding informal places to camp.

You can find equally detailed accounts of three other motorhome journeys they have made in the Fellow Travellers feature on this website.

For more information, you can contact the Rudds at:

Brian and Patricia write:

This is a diary of a 30 day excursion into Morocco. No tour groups attached or guides etc. Just the three of us, myself, wife and sister in law. All views, opinions, asides, moans, comments are all mine.

On the serious side, there is lots of information here if you want to visit Morocco. All GPS locations are here. We sailed from Algeciras to Ceuta.  Part 1 starts at day 75, because we had been on the road for 74 days previously.

Day 75 Saturday 7th September 2013   SOD Temp 74 Deg F

Camping Cabo Pino     Near Malaga Spain  ( No location taken here )

Rain in the night had us awake early. I got up to wind down some of the roof "lids". Some thunder also, but it quietened down after a while. Well Marc, Helena and Lily just timed it right glorious sun everyday for them.

Pauline just sent a text, problem with Tricias NEXT account. Had breakfast and then went for a walk to the paper shop. Not a lot of choice of paper, The Mirror or The Mail. The Mail at least has words of more than two syllables, even if it is loaded with trivial tittle tattle, so I bought that. I had a look for a camping shop that Marc had seen while out on the bike, but I couldn't find it. It must have been further away from the camp. Two English guys in a car asked me for directions to a house, they were installing an internet facility. I wasn't much help to them.

Patricia had a good session of cleaning around the beds while I was out. I had a read of the paper when I returned, Patricia was still cleaning. Had dinner and set the electric iron up for Patricia to do some ironing. Meanwhile, I got out the maps and books for Morocco, to do a little refreshing of places to visit etc.

I got local English Radio tuned in to provide a little background music. A guy was on playing a selection of oldies. He talked about Liverpool, Mathew Street and the Cavern, so I assume he was a Scouser. His presentation sounded like he was reading from a written script, quite factual information, but not a lot of expression in his voice, rather monotonic. Well that's my review of the radio for today folks. Patricia had finally finished ironing, she then did Pasta with Pesto for tea, very tasty too.

I went for a shower in the camp showers after tea. Well what I was expecting to be a quiet relaxing shower, turned out to be the noisiest shower I have ever had. It was absolute bedlam. There was a child, presumably in the ladies, who was screaming and crying. I have never heard a child so upset. Not only that, but lots of loud Spanish voices also. Whether they were aimed at the child, I couldn't say. But the overall effect was deafening and to be truthful quite disturbing. I can only assume hopefully, that it was a shower session the little one wasn't too keen on. On a humorous note, I'm glad they don't live next door to us. But it sounded rather traumatic for the child, whatever was going on. Patricia then went and had a nice quiet shower.

Had a read and listen to the radio, then off to bed. Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. Patricia needs to do some more cleaning, with my help of course.

Day 76 Sunday 8th September 2013   SOD Temp 72 Deg F

Camping Cabo Pino   Near Malaga Spain  ( No location taken here )

Alarm went off 7 - 00 am.  A good nights sleep for me, but Patricia awake a lot through the night. She said it was quite noisy late last night, I didn't hear it. Had breakfast and then helped Patricia cleaning the front part of the van. Also some towels to wash before leaving. The sun is back this morning, it doesn't go away for long. Lifted the carpets out and went under the floor for Paulines things, ready for her arriving tonight.

I went down to put the washing in the dryer. While there I checked what time we had to leave. 12 - 00 pm they said. I asked for 1 - 00 pm and they said o.k. so we had an extra hour to get off site. To be truthful, we had both forgot about the leaving time. Anyway, all packed, toilet done, we were off  by 12 - 30 pm.

Went down to Lidl to do a shop. Parked up in the corner and decided to have some dinner also. I went for a walk around to see if I could see the camping shop Marc had seen. I found a shop filled with all sorts of stuff, which I think was the same shop. Went back for Patricia and we had a rummage round. We ended up buying a small travel iron 800 watts. An oven tray, two small book reading LED lights, a small LED torch, 5 red plastic plates, rubber none slip mat, two batteries, a leather money belt. It was like Alladins cave.

We had a drink on returning to the van and basically the afternoon was over. We had no agenda for the day really, just to get sorted and  pick Pauline up at the airport.

We headed down to the airport early and parked up in the little space we had used before. Had some tea and settled down for a read and wait for the flight.

Tricia walked in to arrivals, again taking Pauline through to departures where we could pick her up. All sorted, flight on time, we picked up and got away. Headed for Malaga Motor homes, where we had stayed previously. Not picturesque, but convenient for a nearby sleepover. Honking the horn, the gate was opened, straight in and hooked up in the same place we had been before.

I had a beer and bourbon and a read before settling down. Pauline now back with us for a while.

Day 77 Monday 9th September 2013   SOD Temp 74 Deg F

Malaga Motorhomes   N 36 42.450  W 004 31.442

Up  8 - 00 am, I had been awake for a while, dogs barking, two aeroplanes flying low, the usual stuff.

Well we now need to get back into our on the road mode. Stashed Paulines things and washed and sterilised the fruit and salad stuff we bought yesterday. Toilet done, topped up with water, I paid Antonio 10 Euros. He said he had seen us parked near the Airport yesterday. He is not a man of many words. Off we went away from Malaga. A7 all the way to Algeciras. We stopped off at a service station on the way out of Estepona for dinner. Quite warm again today. The scenery had changed a little on the road, not quite as tightly built up as areas near Malaga. I was glad to be away from Malaga to be truthful, not my type of place. Although it was lovely to see Marc, Helena and Lily.

On the way into Algeciras we stopped at a ticket agent. I popped in to get a price for the ferry, 252 Euros he quoted. This gave me a guideline for a price. We moved on to Lidl in Palmones, where I knew we could park and there was the famous Carlos ticket agency.

A good place to park, lots of open space, Mcdonalds across the road with wi fi. After a brew Pauline stopped in the van and Patricia and I had a walk to find the ticket agency. I had checked out where it was previously, so it was quite easy to find. Here we got a price of 260 Euros, Ceuta or Tangier, both the same price. They will do the import documentation for the van also, so we will pop back in the morning with cash. There is a hole in the wall across the road, so all sorted for tomorrow.

McDonalds for tea and to use the wi fi. There was a deal on 4 items for 3.99 Euros, so we had a McD meal.

We spent two hours altogether, the longest we have been in a McD. Mail sorted, news updated etc, the wonders of wi fi, we returned to the van for scones and tea. Pauline had made some scones and brought them out with her, excellent idea.

On the way back to the van we couldn't help but notice the McDonalds takeaway litter all over the Lidl car park. We watched as one car ditched all its rubbish out of the window. What a great mentality they must have. Proud of their country do you think ? I think they are mindless imbecilic morons. We have litter louts in the UK, but I do feel it is worse in Spain. Maybe they are Aliens, sent here to destroy the earth slowly.

Pauline is crocheting some little angels, she has done 5 today. Patricia knitting, me reading. So we spent the rest of the evening. Quite a lot of people coming and going around the van. We are the only motorhome on the Lidl car park tonight.

Day 78 Tuesday 10th  September 2013   SOD Temp 74 Deg F

Lidl Car Park   Palmones  near Algeciras    N 36 10.919   W 005 26.381

Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. A decent nights sleep after a noisy start last night. We are parked in quite a busy area. Patricia didn't sleep to well. Breakfast and then first job is down to the ticket agency for the ferry tickets.

 The agency is quite well known amongst the motor home fraternity. Carlos, mentioned in lots of blogs about visiting Morocco. The deal is in cash, so the hole in the wall across the road was the first port of call. 200 Euros withdrawn. The ATM area stunk like a neglected mens urinal, it really was bad. It must get used as a urinal for some reason. We parked just across from the office. The young lady in the office spoke sufficient English with a heavy Spanish accent to sort things for us. Open tickets to sail when we want on the highlighted ferries due to the van height and return when we want. 260 Euros, also van docs done for us. A small photo of the lanes for entering the port is in the information given to us as well. To round off she presented us with a bottle of sparkling wine and a chocolate cake.

Next job was Lidl. Patricia and Pauline sorted that out, while I filled in the paperwork for the ferry. We will target the 13 - 30 pm, Algeciras to Ceuta. All sorted and some dinner, then we decided to have a ride to Tarifa. On the way we spotted the signage for the port that was pictured in the info from Carlos.

A short drive around 18miles to Tarifa. Lots of the useless and brainless wind generators that we are often told are going to save the planet. What a joke to anyone who understands energy generation supply and demand. I'll not get onto that subject here. It was very windy. We circled Tarifa a few times but nowhere to park the van. We ended up on the outskirts just off the Cadiz road, parking up near the beach and getting blown around with a really strong wind. There had been some fair or circus in town, lots of work going on taking everything down. It looked a big affair.  Tarifa had some interesting looking old fortifications around, but we decided to give it a miss and just head back towards Algeciras and our Lidl home.

We parked away from Lidl and McDonalds for tea. then moved over when it got quieter around 10 - 00 pm. Six other vans already parked up. A couple of vans with tables out having a drink. We weren't long before getting down to sleep. The roads had gone quiet by then.

Day 79 Wednesday 11th September 2013   SOD Temp 76 Deg F

Lidl Car Park  Palmones   near Algeciras   N 36 10.919   W 005 26.381

A quiet nights sleep in good old Lidl parking facility. Six other vans parked up with us. The morning noise slowly builds up when the road gets busier. The cleaner is already out clearing up all the rubbish from our McDonald rubbish makers. It looks cloudy today. A small German whizz bang has just released its grey water to run over the car park. Obviously working on trying to get motor home parking stopped. Bloody idiot.

We were the last van away, no rush. Pauline popped into Lidl for coffee and cornflakes. Dropped off our rubbish at large bins across the road near the Carrefour supermarket. We had info for the road into the port, so we slowly slipped in to ensure no wrong turns. Parked up and asked the police if we were ok where we had stopped. No problem. He wanted to talk about Scotland and William Wallace, very strange. Maybe because my beard and hair reminded him of Wallace.

Having a look at the ferry lanes, which were quiet really, I had expected them to be manic. There was Ballearia, FRS and Acciona the companies running ferries. We were Ballearia. The gate opened for loading exactly on time 13 - 30 pm. All vehicles were loaded in around ten minutes, It's not a big ferry. Away we went on our way to Africa.

Many times I had read blogs and diaries of Morocco trips and now,  here we were. A beautiful day, very windy on the top deck. I got pictures and some video of leaving Algeciras and approaching Ceuta. A young guy asked me to take some pictures while he posed on a sun bed. It takes all sorts.

Docking in Ceuta I had planned to try and park up for a while, but there was no opportunity, we were out in the streets in no time. We pulled into a gate for the marina, while I looked at the fees for parking. Luckily one of the lads who worked there was just starting work. He phoned through to someone who came out to open the big gates for easier access, 15 Euros for 24 hours, just the job in a lovely setting also.

Some yachts tied up directly in front of us, from a sailing school in Gibralter. The police have a base about 40 yards along the marina from our parking spot.

Parked up we set about other jobs. Me with satnav,  no recognition of  Morocco. Patricia to find a post box to send cards back home. also to see what the band was playing for. A band was marching through the streets across the other side of the marina.

I tried a small cafe near us for wi fi, but decided to go to McDonalds to get Garmin web site and buy Morocco software. What a convoluted system Garmin run. I was so long on the web site, the battery on the lappy depleted, so I couldn't then risk a download and gave up. Try again tomorrow. Absolutely like bedlam again in McD. Earplugs next time.

Chicken and pasta with salad for tea. I went for a walk with Patricia to post cards and have a short walk around. Ceut,  around that area seemed quite nice. All the prominent buildings are lit up at night.

We watched the yachties as they got more lubricated and louder. Just what you need for a good nights sleep. An eventful day so we were ready for bed. The yachties parted on.

Day 80 Thursday 12th September 2013   SOD Temp 77 Deg F

Ceuta   Spanish enclave in Morocco  On the marina  N 35 53.430  W 005 18.831

Awake before the alarm, 5 - 45 am. The yacht party went on for some time, yachties enjoying themselves.

We put the alarm on early to have showers, download the sat nav software and get off into Morocco. Well the best laid plans etc. Had breakfast and moved the van to the opposite side of the marina near to the showers. Well the shower went ok, apart from some idiot ripping the shower door open.  I got free wi fi on the marina, it was about as much use as a chocolate fireguard. I finally gave up and tried McDonalds, again, Patricia came with me while Pauline stayed in the van for a catnap. She didn't get much sleep last night. After nearly five hours of trying, I finally got the Morocco software loaded and running. What a frustrating and annoying day. So we decided to relax and stay another night.

I moved the van back and got an electric socket from a Dutch boat, they are leaving tomorrow. Most sockets are the big marine type, but this socket fitted our plug. So now hooked up for the night.

Tricia and Pauline went for a walk for fruit and veg.  I trimmed my beard. We had Pork, sauteed potatoes and salad for tea. Yachts tying up in front of us. One with a gang of blokes on it. Oh, oh, not good. We had one lot last night, mindless bunch of idiots, drinking and shouting until the early hours. Boys at play, away from home !

Day 81 Friday 13th September 2013   SOD Temp 75 Deg F

Ceuta   N 35 53.430   W 005 18.831

Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. Broken sleep again with the  English imbeciles on a nearby yacht. I have a long standing theory, slowly as per the laws of Physics becoming a rule. That 90% of the human race go through this world with blinkers on. This lot are part of the 90%. No consideration for anyone, balling and shouting and playing loud music in the middle of the night. Disturbing not only us, but all the other people asleep in their yachts and catamarans. Ah well, get on with the morning.

Had breakfast and got van sorted for leaving. The border is only three miles away, noticeable,  by a lot more ladies with head scarves along the way.

Slowly easing through the Spanish section stopping to ensure we are ok to drive through. The van wouldn't start. There is a security system over riding the ignition. This would not let it start. Oh bloody great,  just what you need going through border controls. I got the manual out, inserted my code, it still wouldn't start. A Spanish policeman strolled over to see what the problem was. I let him know and he realised immediately what the problem was. Electronic jamming for potential bombs. He went and switched it off and the van started. What a relief. Through the Spanish section no problems, English ?  Yes ! Just drive through.

The Moroccan border control was fun, two guys in long shirts ran towards us. Official helpers ?  One of them seemed official, with a security card hung around his neck.  The other was a hanger on, insisting we hire him to go to Tetouan. Anyway, with Pauline helping and Patricia staying in the van, we made our way through the paperwork, Police for registering us, then docs for the van, then customs. Then our official helper asking for 20 Euros for 10 minutes time and Tetouan Teddy still smiling and insisting we go with him. I gave the official some remaining Euros around 6 Euros, what I considered fair. Tetouan Teddy got some odd Dirhams for his smile.

The border was reasonably quiet, not manic as some seem to indicate. Two other vans behind us. The long shirted official was a bit in a rush, repeating over and over what he wanted us to do. But doing it all at my pace and controlling things especially passports and papers, we got through easy.

Parking up inside Morocco, we had our first young boy tapping on the window. I went with Patricia to an ATM across the road  and got 2000 Dirhams. Back at the van the boy was still hanging around. I tried to communicate a little but his eyes looked dead and he had a totally defeated look on his face. A difficult dilemma, do you give or ignore. We will have to learn as we go along. We gave him a packet of crisp, which he strolled off with.

Our first destination was Assilah. Setting off over the hills the  clouds were down so it was like driving in fog. We came down past Tangier Med port, a large brand new facility still being extended. Here we unintentionally picked up the motorway, which was quite good though. A service station came up, time for diesel and dinner. Diesel was 8.34 D per litre, our first fill. 74.43 Litres cost 620 D in total, around 48 pounds. Not bad, wish it was that price in England.

The service station had squat toilets, a three tap foot washing basin and a small mosque with carpets laid out. Coming off the motorway onto the N1 along the coast, it was dry, dusty and had a certain decayed and neglected air about it. We stopped and I popped out to buy a melon, 12 D, it was like an enormous rugby ball for less than £1.

We called in to look at a beach stop, to do the toilet, the location is in the Morocco camping book. Again, wind blown,  deserted, rubbish strewn, air of decay. The toilet doors were tied up, a chair and money bucket nearby, so someone hangs around there. Pretty dirty and run down, sand piling up everywhere. Rickety stick sun shelters being blown around in the wind. An ideal film set building up to some spooky happening. No problem., we turned around and got back onto the main road south.

Arriving in Asilah around 5 miles down the road we soon had the attendants vying to pull us in. I wanted to get near the Medina, so we had two Mohammeds helping us, Mohammed 1 and Mohammed 2, Mohammed 1 spoke  reasonable English and showed me where to empty the toilet. Toilet emptied we parked up, 50 D for the night, not bad. We now got the salesmen coming around. I gave Mohammed 1the  bottle of sparkling wine from the ticket agency. He slipped it in his pocket, covered it with his shirt to hide it from  Mohammed 2, his mate.. We are all brothers he told us. Glad he's not mine. It was a good  show of his character to me.

We had a  walk through the Medina and into the streets, where everyone was selling something. It was a lovely chaotic scene, people sitting, lying, standing, selling all kinds of things. The Fish was covered with flies, not appealing. We bought 2kg of tomatoes 8 D, 1 kg of Nectarines 12 D, in a small utterly dirty and chaotic market. The amazing thing was the closed stalls were just covered up and left, in a town where lots of people seem to have very little.

My ladies, who decided to be sensible and keep covered shoulders, enjoyed the unusual experience. They never felt intimidated and felt that most salesmen took no for an answer. The Medina had murals painted on some buildings, quite colourful.

When we got back to the van  I went for a stroll while Patricia and Pauline prepared tea. Stalls selling bowls of either snails or small molluscs, I couldn't tell. Also selling bowls of what seemed like chickpeas. Colourful  horse drawn carriages were trotting around.

Back at the van we had tea and decided to sit out, I had a beer and enjoyed the comings and goings of  the night. This unfortunately was cut short by a thunder storm, it put a bit of rain down, so we got down for the night. An intriguing and interesting first day in Morocco. It certainly has a different vibe than Europe.

Day 82 Saturday September 14th 2013   SOD Temp 80 Deg F

Asilah   Morocco   N 35 28.024  W 006 02.248

A quiet night after the rain, mister Muezzin called at 5 - 00 am. The "mister " bit is from Lily, our granddaughter , who named him that in Turkey. Our overnight guardians have just turned up. They did assure us they were here all night. Maybe they were incognito.

Had breakfast and then walked out to the Church of San Bartolome. One of only a few church bells in Morocco is heard from here. Knocking on the door, a head appeared around the door then disappeared. Then a nuns head appeared from an upper window. Then a lovely lady dressed in blue let us in and showed us around. Her name was Macarena. A  nice cool quiet church like an oasis of peace. We also visited the Moorish style small chapel upstairs. They also do teaching of dressmaking, embroidery, reading and sewing to local Muslim ladies. Pauline has promised to crochet an angel for Macarena, we got her address. ( The Angel was posted out to Macarena with a donation for the church )

From there we explored a little more around the Medina. Calling into one shop the lady was sat with her Quran and had the television on where it was being recited to her. I did ask to look at her book, but she said no she couldn't let me. We priced up a coat 200 D and a puzzle box 250 D which plummeted to 150 D. We aren't buying at the moment so we declined. I also priced some beautiful acrylic paintings 100 D, but again let it go.

Back at the van, we had dinner and then got on the road. Mohammed 1, the wine drinker was there as we left, I wished him well. We actually paid another guy and got a ticket, not Mohammed 2.  I presume they are all in it together.

N1 around Larache and past the motorway, looking for the P4214 which turns right off the N1 and heads to Moulay Bousselham. Well the P4214 road didn't appear, maybe someone has sold it and moved it, but we couldn't find it. So we turned off the first right hand tarmac road we came across. This turned out to be one of the agricultural roads through the fields. But it was heading the right way, so it must pick up the P4214 somewhere. The road had some fair old potholes, but in general was pretty good state. Lots of workers in the fields, lots of shouts and waves,  enthusiastic direction givers when we stopped to ask are we heading in the right direction. French was understood. The unplanned route gave another look at Moroccan life. Lots of small shambolic little communities in the side roads off  this road.

 Eventually we did find the P4214, turned left and headed for Moulay  Bousselham. The newly downloaded Garmin sat nav  software didn't recognise any of this area, until we got on the P4214 heading for Moulay Bousselham.

The sat nav coordinates for the camp sites were also incorrect. We did find the municipal one, where Hassan the bird trip man accosted us outside it as we turned around. We decided the other site Flamant Loisir may be better. It had wi fi, which would be useful.

Again the site had an air of neglect. A green Dutch whizz bang that had been in Asilah and I had spoken  to the lady travelling in it. They were already in the site. A Rapido also. 60 D for the van, 15 D each. We also have electric which to my amazement lit up my three LED's on the test plug, all ok. Hot water in the rather  dim and dismal looking showers. Lots of power points around the site. Does it get busy I wondered. A Range Rover pulled in to set up a tent.

I got off an update e-mail to family, while Patricia and Pauline prepared tea. The reception where the wi fi was, was also very sparse and bare. Other rooms, an infirmary, piled up with rubbish, laundry, locked up. Cafe, sparse but clean looking when  I looked through the window, the door was closed.

After tea I again walked over for the wi fi. Here I was watched by an owl that was perched on the upright barrier bar. Looking down it followed my movement as I walked around it. It then opened quite big wings and flew off into the night.  Was this an African Marsh Owl, quite a distinct sound to it also. I checked the time, I had changed my watch, but wanted to confirm the correct time. I was right, back to Brit time.

I had a read up for tomorrow. Ladies knitting and crocheting. Very dark outside, half moon shining. I had a beer and a Bourbon. Off to bed early. Morocco is creating a certain atmosphere.

Day 83 Sunday September 15th 2013   SOD Temp 76 Deg F

Moulay Bousselham   N 34 52.541  W 006 16.774

A lovely peaceful night until Mr. Muezzin at 5 - 00 am. Alarm on for six, cocks crowing in the distance. We decided to utilise the showers, so I moved the van around and parked near the showers. The electric hook ups here weren't working, no surprise really. The shower was hot, no clip to hold the shower head.  A big steel door and bar on the cubicle, but the orientation of  it opening, if you had an expanded waist there would be no chance of squeezing in. If the door bar stuck, no chance of getting out also. Ladies shower also no clip for the head.

Grey water and toilet done, we parked near reception and walked out to have a look down near the little port. The road outside the camp has been hard laid at some distant time, but it has now mainly been ripped up and washed away. We walked across a sandy path past some building workers who were laying foundations, shovelling all the sand and cement into the concrete mixer, no ready mix trucks here. The path zigzagged through deep water washed channels in the sand, filled with the usual rubbish.

We passed the other campsite which is on the lagoon. Just past it the small harbour is through a gate in the fence. The police have a small station here also. The usual Flamingo boats are here trying to sell trips on the lagoon. I told one of them, we had Flamingos in England 20 Kilometres from my house. He was rather surprised. They are in a bird sanctuary. Small blue boats lied on the beach, men doing little jobs on fishing tackle etc. All quiet and laid back. I chatted to one guy, he said it gets very busy in summer, the season is now over.

Back at camp, we paid 105 D for the camp, then on our way. Onto the motorway to Kenitra to find a Marjane supermarket. 40 D for the motorway. I pulled over near a police radar trap to check on the sat nav where we were. A policeman immediately crossed to us to ask if we had a problem. He gave us considered directions in French, quite precise, he counted out the roundabouts.

A bit busy in Kenitra, but we found the Supermarket ok, with another person adding the last direction. A big place, one or two things different than UK, e.g. rice and dried foods laid out in tubs, a no, no in the UK supermarkets. I found a SIM card shop and got fixed up with a Moroccan SIM for texting, 20D for SIM, 50 D for credit, which was trebled on the offer. The young guy spoke decent English, learned at school., 545 D for food  shopping. We had dinner here also. A team of men and women were clearing up rubbish on waste land  at the side of the car park. Piles of black  bags. A never ending job I would think.

We then set satellite Simon to find a parking space from our Morocco Camping book. What a road we went along. We were all amazed at the squalor and shanty towns people were living in. Quite undescribable really. Driving was interesting to say the least. We hit one section where there was a chaotic market going on. Driving through, donkeys, horse and carts, motorbikes, motorbike trucks, people wandering in the road, children running loose. We also passed through what seemed to be an industrial section of road, shanty huts where everything you can think of was being made. Again total chaos reigned.

We were heading for a place on the Plage Des Nations, a fancy name, but again chaotic. We drove over a sand section of road to a full stop and had to turn around. We finally came out at a big sloping car park unsuitable for the van. The Guardian was a German guy, Pauline chinwagged with him. He was asking for bon bons, he has five children ! I also talked to a security guy who was guarding a big new development on the coast overlooking the sea. He invited us back to his house, I decided unfortunately to decline. We needed to relax and I didn't think we would while visiting a Moroccan house. A pity really, it would have been really interesting. We paid the Gaurdian 5 D, he wanted 10 D, we had only been there a few minutes. He seemed happy at that. Back on the N1 we headed back to Kenitra and again in Kenitra we hit a totally chaotic area, total chaos describes it well. Finally we found the campsite, again sat nav was off pitch, we had to ask a few people in backstreets, where you would think there was no chance of a camp site.

Driving into the camp, it was a little oasis of peace compared to what was going on outside. A small French van we had seen at Moulay Bousselham was there, the lady sat playing guitar with a big book of music notes like mine. Again the site looked faded and neglected. 72 D for the night, we again had 3 LED's on the electric indicator test plug. All good. But again the sockets looked on their last legs. Pushed to the limit might be the right description.

Chicken and chips for tea, care of Marjane. A read and a beer. We all talked about what we had seen today. To see the decrepit  conditions that people live and survive in was certainly an eye opener. A little boy washing at a tap in the middle of a sea of mud. Boys bathing in oil drums. Two boys in a small cart flogging hell out of a little donkey. A little lady bent double. Shambolic, chaotic, teaming with people. But amazingly we encountered a lot of smiles and good natured waves and shouts as we weaved through the chaos. Scenes that will live long in the memory.

Day 84 Monday 16th September 2013   SOD Temp 77 Deg F

Kenitra   Complexe Touristique La Chenaie   N 34 15.412  W 006 33.996

A quiet night, Mr Muezzin at 5 - 00 am, also a pitter patter of rain. Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. Writing up the diary, recalling scenes from yesterday. Had breakfast and a scout around the camp. Just our van and the older French van, with one old dilapidated caravan on the camp. The pool area looked clean and tidy, but the pool was empty. I got some photographs. Some areas where rubbish again had accumulated over a period of time, with no attempt to clean it up.

Paid 72 D for camping. The sat nav set, we headed off for the motorway. The only thing was, it was taking us in the opposite direction. I knew from having visited Marjane Supermarket yesterday, we were driving the opposite way to all the signs. I turned around and we found it as I thought.

20 D for the first section which ends near Rabat. This then becomes a busy two lane section of road with idiotic drivers weaving in and out of the lanes. There was chaos at one junction where there had been an accident, every man for himself, cars and trucks weaving in every conceivable direction. The police having no affect on the chaos. A lovely three lane section of motorway after this. The best we have been on, 40 D for this. We stopped at a service area for dinner, a reasonably tidy and neat place. Restaurant, shop, toilets, fuel and the usual small mosque. Two Brit vans rolled past us as we had dinner, no acknowledgement at all. We saw the green Dutch whizz bang again, had a quick word, they were going the same place that we were.

Another 10 miles and we dropped off for Mohammedia. Sat nav again trying to  take us past the large sign indicating where the camp was. The road in, is a little unusual, ending at the beach, where you turn right and drive over compact sand. Yes there it was, Camping Ocean Bleu.

A quite pleasant atmosphere to the camp, the sound of the waves in the background. The young guy Mohammed Ali sorted a place for us with shade and good wifi reception. Our green Dutch whizz bang rolled in just behind us. The Rapido from Moulay was also on site, he was just going out on his quad bike as we arrived, a wave of recognition from him. The two Brit vans who had rolled past us at the motorway stop, were also on site, I suspected they would be. Chairs and table set up, I checked wifi and mail, quite good. I also had a word with Mohammed to book a taxi for tomorrow, 400 D to take us into Casablanca and ferry us around for the day.

Having a stroll around the camp, I chatted with John from the two Brit vans, in an Autotrail. He is from Surrey, the two vans  are travelling together. We met Johns wife Lorna,  later on a walk along the beach and promenade. They were just strolling also, we had a chat for a while. I got photos of us with a large concrete mixer, working our way through Morocco. The area is being developed but slowly, so it takes on a deserted atmosphere. Just some young guys playing football on the beach. Quite cool  and cloudy which we didn't complain about. A nice temperature though.

Back at the van, we had chicken curry and rice very tasty. Brit radio on for a while, I turned it off, it didn't fit the mood. Again the light plunged around 8 - 00 pm. Some bats flying around. We made use of the wifi for Utube and whatsapp etc. I have developed a really runny nose, it's been all yesterday and today, it must be some allergy, but it's streaming and annoying.

Day 85 Tuesday 17th September 2013   SOD Temp 76 Deg F

Camping Ocean Bleu  Mohammedia    N 33 44.210   W 007 19.382

Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. A while before I got to sleep last night. But I slept ok after. I didn't hear Mr Muezzin anyway. My nose is still running. Breakfast and then a shower. One thing we're learning fast is lower your expectations. The shower worked, but ran hot and cold. The shower cubicle was covered in black mold all around the lower walls. A  " cleaning " lady was waiting to go in as I was leaving the shower section.

Pauline was talking to a lady from one of the Brit vans, who seemed to be having a problem with Morocco. Complaining that she doesn't want to touch anything, she had big yellow gloves on. The camp sites weren't adequate and were a health hazard. We've christened her, Moaning Minnie. The country is different, but she can't adjust to that. Ah well, we roll on, another person met, all part of the tapestry of travel.

We had a taxi booked for ten o clock, he turned up around ten fifteen. Rachid in his light blue Mercedes grande taxi. It was a few years old and a very low geared automatic. Rachid spoke French, so all of his comments we needed to interpret, a joint excercise between us. Pauline seems to be doing best at understanding French at the moment.

Now Rachid seemed a lovely guy but we have to point out the following observations. Driving in Casablanca with one hand, talking on the telephone, rummaging in his dashboard then taking out an extending charging cable, ( which I thought was a small tape measure and he was going to measure something up ), laughing at every total lunatic thing we saw on the road.

Now it makes you think. Has he totally lost the plot ? Or, is he an excellent driver who has adjusted to the total chaos going on all around. We go for the latter explanation.

The confusion and chaotic situation on the roads was a site to behold. I just feel that there are a lot of people with a death wish in Casablanca.

Arriving at the Hassan 2 Mosque, Rachid dropped us off and parked nearby. The Mosque is incredible, built partly over the sea. An enormous square in front of it. We got tickets for the tour just starting at 12 - 00 pm. 120 D each, from a very ignorant and arrogant mannered guy on the desk. The first Moroccan to leave that impression, also at a National Iconic building. Plastic bags to put your shoes in. The young lady doing the English tour was excellent. She was very understanding of Pauline, being a little slow walking. No problem, she waited to start every description until we had gathered around her. Even getting down on her knees to listen to Pauline talking to her. She was quite tall. Moaning Minnie was there also, moaning about it being warm, we were in the Hammam section at the time.

A quite incredible building that would take a long description so I won't try.

Rachid was having a nod nearby waiting for us, he tipped the guardian and away we went. Off to the Medina, which was smaller than I expected. I had a look at a couple of Moroccan stringed instruments, which were really only for flogging to gullible tourists. They looked like they had been cobbled up from old orange boxes, not really playable. The shop guys were quite keen to sell, even trying to sell me fancy boxes. I don't know why. Pauline was asked 20 for a small toy giraffe, thinking he meant D, I fished in my wallet for a note, but he wanted Euros, a bit pricey, so a no and we left. But he sensed a kill and wouldn't give up. He started to follow and harass us, so I had to put it in no uncertian terms that it was no. A look straight into his eyes, a stair and an upright hand, with an unequivical no thank you. He got the message and skulked off. Good humour from the other guys we spoke to. There's always one I suppose.

Lots of small alleys and cubby holes selling similar products. I was asked for 600 D for a cobbled up stringed instrument.  It looked like it had been made from old bits of driftwood. Really rough made.

From the Medina we headed back. Casablanca is a big city and to see a lot would take many days. We had a brief tour around with Rachid, past the Royal Palace. He pointed out interesting buildings etc.

The outstanding memory is of the total chaos on the roads, three accidents we passed. Amazingly in the chaos that was Casablanca, we came across Rachids son, who had his girlfriend on the back of his scooter. They pulled the scooter over and stopped to meet us. They were lovely, she had the headscarf on, but cheek kissed Patricia who was on her side of the car. A really nice gesture from a young couple who had never met us before.

On the way back we stopped at a bank in Mohammedia, withdrew 1500 D.

The day had cost us 400 D, I added another 50 D. Rachid seemed happy with that. It's difficult to assess value in Dirhams, but we're learning.

Quite tired when we got back, I think I have a cold coming on. In Morocco, a cold ! Omelette for tea. A local came around with three Dorada, he wanted 80 D, but unfortunately we had just sat down to eat and we didn't want to store the fish in the fridge. So no sale. Shame, on another occasion I would have bought. He then asked us for beer, wine or whiskey. He was a nice guy, but he then lost a little credibility in my eyes. Am I wrong ? It's difficult to say. Sorted the toilet in the dark with the help of Patricia and the LED torch.

Cheese and biscuits for afters.  Got off to bed early. A lovely moonlit night in Morocco, with sea singing away, as it has for eternity. Lovely memories being made and stored in my mind.

Day 86  Wednesday 18th September 2013   SOD Temp 75 Deg F

Camping Ocean Bleu  Mohammedia   N 33 44.210   W 007 19.382

Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. I slept well, two Co-codamol did the trick. Hope the sniffles and cold symptoms clear up. Had breakfast and sorted the van for leaving. The other two Brit vans left without a word. If we have spent any time chatting with someone, we always say goodbye and good journey. Maybe we have annoyed them in some way !  210 D for two nights then we were off. Just down the road from the camp we spotted a fruit and vegetable stall, so we pulled in to buy some. At least we had the intention of buying. We knocked it on the head, when he wanted to charge what we knew to be double price for Nectarines, Apples and Pears. Some Moroccans seem to think we come over to dole out cash as we go along.

Just up the road we were on the A3 motorway to take us around Casablanca. We stopped at an Aire de Repos to make a coffee, my eyes were feeling really heavy, maybe linked with the runny nose and chesty cough I have had for two days. There was a lovely laid out garden alongside where we parked. Taking a stroll in it, the guy tidying up gave us a red rose. We complimented him on a well maintained little garden. Again a lovely little gesture from a complete stranger.

 Tolls of 43 D in total before we decided to drop off onto the N1. Anyone just using the motorway to head South, is insulated from most of the sites and scenes of the poverty in Morocco. It's like travelling in a bubble. Immediately we dropped onto the N1 at Lbir Jdid we saw shanties and people scratching a living in all sorts of ways. There was quite a lot of older school children around in the town itself.

Rolling into El Jadida, you drive along a beautiful front, with the beach and white waves washing in. The satellite location for the site was again slightly wrong, meaning a search around for it. A policeman pointed the way towards the camp. But even when we got near, the local older well uniformed children didn't know where it was. It was actually 40 yards away down a street from our parking spot.

All the sat nav coordinates seem to be slightly off. Moaning Minnie wasn't there, we expected her to be. Maybe they have gone home. The Dutch whizz bang rolled in just after us and parked opposite us. We had a late dinner and then around 4 - 00 pm walked into El Jadida along the lovely open front. Just before leaving the camp we were shouted over to look at a large Lobster a local was selling. 250 D per kg, he reckoned it was 3 kg. A bit too pricey for us I'm afraid. We arranged for six Dorado, he would cook at 7 - 00 pm when we returned. 150 D we agreed. I later found I could buy 4 Dorado for 30 D, well we live and learn. He was gutting and cooking also so worth a try.

Lots of young guys on the beach playing football, nice footwork in bare feet from many. Not too many ladies, but there was a few bikinis around. We walked down to the Portuguese old town. It was really dilapidated but had lots of character and sharp salesmen. One was playing an Oud, he let me have a play. It has no frets and the scale is different from western scales. He told me it had cost 5000 D. It was a decent quality made instrument, a lot different than the tat that I had been shown in Casablanca.  He was trying to sell leather slippers to Patricia and Pauline, but the slippers were too narrow.

Further down the street we had a really aggressive guy, who succeeded in selling blocks of perfume material 200 D and 2 plates for 100 D to Pauline. Who, if not watched closely, will become the Moroccan salesmans dream. He had some lovely Berber and Tuareg jewelry, but we will see that as we move South. I eventually walked off because he was taking all of our limited time and he still insisted in following me down the street calling my name. My hackles were up by then, so there was no way he was selling anything else. My ladies will learn the hard way I suppose. He was quite a big guy also, decent English and a slick sales patter. But I disliked him from first opening his mouth.

That apart, the area was really old and full of character, worth a walk around. But don't let guys like that take your time.

We crossed the main road into a shambolic market selling everything. One stall with boiled goats heads. We bought some fruit at sensible prices this time. Bananas 18 D Kg, Apples 15 D per Kg , Nectarines 13 D per Kg. An older guy who spoke English helping the young guy on the stall with interpretation. The older guy had spent some time in York he said.

We didn't have much time left to be back for our fish cook at 7 - 00 pm, so I hailed a petit taxi, 20 D to take us back to camp, straight to the entrance. 5 minutes journey roughly.

The fish cook brought the cooked fish wrapped, with a sauce in a bag, along with two small loaves. There was no way I would have the sauce and loaves, having seen his van, which looked like a travelling biohazard area. The fish were deep fried, so I felt ok with them. The Dorado is quite tasty, lots of bones and not an awful lot of meat to be truthful. Well at least we tried them, two each, but I don't think we will try them again. 150 D for the experience.

We had some rice and salad after, the fish would have been cold while we prepared the rest of the meal, so we ate the fish alone. We had a little problem with our boiling water, it was all discoloured and tainted, we had picked it up on our last fill at Mohammedia, so I dumped it all.

A Moroccan couple in a tent nearby, asked for some hot water to make drink, we filled their flask and then topped it later for them. I spoke to the lady from the Dutch whizz bang, her name is Yvonne, his name is Cook.They are married but have different names. This is her second marriage she said. They sold a business in Holland and now are lucky enough to travel. He never seems to speak at all, she is very bubbly and sociable. I liked her, a lovely lady.

A lovely full moon tonight, again darkness seemed to drop quickly. We finished our meal inside the van.

Day 87 Thursday 19th September 2013   SOD Temp 72 Deg F

El Jadida   Camping and Caravanning International  N 33 14.493  W 008 29.205

Ah well, one good nights sleep gets washed away by a tragic night. All the dogs in the world must have held a barking convention in El Jadida. They give up and then the cock starts crowing. Mr Muezzin finished the night off just before the alarm at 6 - 00 am.

We are off to Safi today, so breakfast and get sorted for off. With parking under trees everything is covered in small hair like strands and small nut shells.  90.2 D for camp fees, the lady explaining there was a 10% tax in that. Patricia and Pauline paid, while I topped up some water. While topping up the water I got chatting to Cook from the Dutch whizz bang. To be fair, he hasn't spoken much so far, as I said Yvonne was very sociable and bubbly, but he was fine, just a little quiet I suppose, he lets Yvonne do all the talking, she is quite a lot younger than him.

Easy finding the N1 so we were straight on and travelling. The road is excellent in some areas and diabolical in other areas. We ran into some road maintenance going on. Quite a lot of trucks on the road, it is a main road north and south in this area. The traffic was held up at the other side as we got through, an ambulance was parked with the driver getting shouted at by some guy, who seemed very annoyed. The landscape is quite flat with large fields. The passing fields showed signs of lots of agriculture being done. Although most now were empty but ploughed up. Lots of the usual rubbish and plastic bags everywhere. The locals just seem to be totally oblivious of it. We called in at a roadside stall to pickup 1.5 kg of Figs, 11 D, 1 kg of tomatoes, 5D. The stall had pigeons and chickens in cages, I presume they werefor sale. We also tried the spiny apple like fruit that grows on the top of the local cactus. Rather tasteless to me, full of seeds like a pomegranate.

We stopped around 30 miles from Safi for dinner. It was getting a little warmer by this time and the sun was breaking out. It had been quite overcast all morning. A small cafe that did tagines near us, the pots piled up outside. Men were sat in chatting. Patricia sprayed my eyes with optical spray, they had been heavy and quite sore due to not sleeping last night. Lots of children with school satchels as we passed. Always smiling and waving. Motor homes must be very noticeable to them. Even mums waving along with the children.

The sat nav again was a little out in location. But luckily we saw the camp and pulled in. The checkered flag on the sat nav was further along the road. Yvonne and Cook our Dutch fellow traveller's were on site when we arrived. We thought the site was closed, but a little old guy came out to guide us into the bit that was open. We parked alongside Yvonne and Cook.

Peacock and hens on site, we fed them, bread, cake and cereal. Walking around the site, there is a pool, empty at the moment, a small pool also. Just near the pool is a parking area that overlooks the town and sea shore, a lovely view. But we can't park there. The old guy says there is some stone throwing over the camp wall. I suspect they tell us that, so that it is easier for them to keep us coralled in one area.

We also met and chatted with Christopher and Veronica, a Polish couple from Hampshire in England. They had been at Ocean Bleu camp at Mohammedia but we hadn't crossed paths there. They are on a trip around Africa. They have a four wheel drive with a tent on the top for sleeping. The safari type vehicle, a ladder up to the top for bed. A very nice couple who spoke excellent English, they had been running a car wash business. Veronica keeps her diary with pen and paper.

Chicken stir fry, noodles and spring rolls for tea. Excellent. Wi fi on camp, but no password for it. I asked Veronica if she had it, but no. They had been told there was no wi fi.

We have a beautiful full moon again. The lights of Safi shining through the trees and along the beach. The local Muezzin must have been auditioning for a new one. We seemed to have a series of different voices calling for a while. Some not very tuneful, but one guy quite mellow and if quieter, could have lulled me to sleep. Being bog eyed I was ready for an early night. Two pages of reading that was my lot.

Day 88  Friday 20th September 2013   SOD Temp 70 Deg F

Safi     Camping International de Safi    N 32 19.031  W 009 14.245

Awake with Mr Muezzin, the most raucous, tuneless one I have ever heard. The speakers around town also seem to transmit the ongoing prayers, it is still going on as I write the diary.

When I got out of the van, one of my flip flops had gone, nowhere to be seen. A Moroccan guy who was camping near us, told me one of the guardians had seen a peacock going off with it. A good guardian obviously, sat and watched and didn't move. Our Moroccan friend asked the guardian to get it for me, it was only around 20 yards away near the offices.

After breakfast we had a chat with Yvonne for a while, they are heading to a different camp this time. All the van sorted, we started walking to town, a taxi soon came, 10 D to the Medina. No working seat belt, so I braced myself against the dash board with my arms. Weird travelling in a car with no seatbelt on. Pottery was being laid out on the floor as we got out of the taxi. The Medina was not fully opened, quite a few places were still locked up. A little guy tried to ingratiate himself upon us, muttering on about the earthquake in Agadir. I had to tell him to go away, we didn't want him following us. He got the message. The Portuguese Cathedral was locked when we found it. Near here, some young girls found us amusing and were calling out and laughing. Not a clue what they were saying, so totally inconsequential. We ignored and they got bored.

There are some really old streets just away from the shopping streets. We were in one where a guy was selling from a hole in the wall, maybe his door. I asked could I take a photograph, no problem. He asked me to send him a copy, I got his address, which he wrote quite precise and clear. Another tall guy had attached himself to us and was trying to act as an interpreter, he did speak some English. I had to again, ask him not to follow us. He left us alone. The Medina is not very large and easy to negotiate. The Pottery section seems to be the aim of the hustlers to get you to visit. Limpet might be a better name than hustler, they just follow you and cling on.

We came across a sewing section, where there are small cubby holes each with a guy doing something by hand or machine. We bumped into Yvonne and Cook here, they had just been around the pottery making section tour.

Here we decided to get a taxi back, we had a ninety mile drive to Essaouira to do. Again theer was no belt at all in the taxi. 7 D this time, he said that was enough, we gave him 10D.

I had to chase around to get the camp owner for paying him. I get the strong impression that he doesn't like work. The old guy who works on the camp said he was probably still in bed, this was around 11 - 30 am. 115 D paid we then set off, heading for the coastal road, we passed the Sardine processing factories, these stretch for a couple of miles along the coast road. The smell indicated what was going on.

Leaving all the factories behind we got onto the R301, which basically follows the coast to Essaouira. Some sections lovely and smooth, some sections diabolical. A quite rocky and stony terrain. Lots of really quiet beaches, remote from anywhere. No large towns.  One or two small villages we passed through. We passed one section of the Ocean that was quite red, further on down the road we discovered why. A river running into it was carrying red silt, it looked like a river of blood, quite unusual to see. The last red river I saw, was back in Wigan in the UK. A local dye works used to dump die batches in the River Douglas that flows through Wigan. Green, Yellow, Red, we had quite a colourful river, all cleaned up now and the dye works is now flattened and built on. The water storage and sluices etc. are now utilised as part of the private housing estate.

We stopped for some dinner just across from a small walled enclosure and house. A young girl came to assess us, she crossed the road, walked around the van and then stood in the doorway watching us.

Just short of Essaouira we stopped to set the sat nav and to have a walk to wake up a little. It was quite a tiring road to drive. There was a cemetery just behind the nearby bushes so we moved on quickly.

Essaouira greeted us with strong winds, just one little detour, then we found the camp.The busiest we have been on so far. The wind blowing sand across the camp, the trees lashing around. Quite a tumultuous scene as we rolled in. One van who had arrived just before us, had parked blocking the entrance. They didn't have the brain to drive in and then check in. A red and white bar rested across the gate and was propped on the gate across from it. Hard standing and stony sandy areas were available in the camp. We parked under the trees, the electric cable has to stretch across a roadway to plug in.

Pasta for tea. A few more vans are coming in. Three range rover types rolled in. I thought it may have been Chris and Veronica, but no. No Muezzin to be heard at all and it's Friday. The lady in the nearby van pegged washing out in the wind, with sand whipping around, should be lovely, dry and gritty by morning.

Day 89  Saturday 21st September  2013   SOD Temp 74 Deg F

Camping Sidi Magdoul   Essaouira   N 31 29.523   W 009 45.768

Alarm on for 7 - 00 am.  A really quiet night and no Muezzin to be heard this morning, just the cooing of local doves. There seems to be quite a lot of them. I've just been across to the toilets, a guy in there shaving. Best thing I ever did growing a beard. Thank you Patricia for persuading me to grow it.

Pauline has just been to the shower and came back to tell us, that a painting on the rear of a nearby Belgian van had cost him 1100 Euros. A bit pricey I feel. He must have too much money and Rachid in Marrakech, has decided to relieve him of some of it. The wind has dropped overnight.

Egg and toast for breakfast, a little treat. We actually picked up some bread we could toast the other day. Patricia and Pauline hand washed the towels, we put a line out to dry. No one stopping others doing it, so we'll have a go too. They were doing a new dance called Fly Jig as they washed, just to keep the flies away from their legs.

Just dumped the toilet in the hole in the ground, a swarm of flies emerged, it must be their breeding place. No cover, so they can get plenty fresh air and keep them healthy. The dirtiest and most foul chemical toilet placement I have experienced. Just had a shower, cold, it felt warm this morning when I checked it. Amazingly a cleaning lady was washing the toilet floor and using disinfectant, I could smell it. The toilet bowls are filthy however.

Just checked e-mail. Why does no one ever bother to reply to e - mails. It seems that way. I seem to send out a lot more emails than I receive. The law of diminishing returns at work.

We had some dinner and then started walking into town, not long before a Petit Taxi showed, 10 D to the Medina.

The Medina is probably the cleanest we have seen. lots of articles made local from wood. I checked out several Backgammon boards with the intention of buying one. Superficially they looked good, but on closer inspection the quality was rather poor. Hinges were really bad. I suppose my expectations were too high from reading travel information. I eventually gave up the search. The best quality woodworker I found didn't do boards, but his work was real quality craftmanship. Too bad.

Lots of similar style paintings, brightly coloured, they seemed to be acrylics from the colour and texture. Again I liked the colour on one, but eventually I discovered they were everywhere, mass production underway. Quite nice and stylish though. I nearly bought from a nice lady who wanted to sell me three, similar style but all slightly different.

I got offered 25 Camels for Pauline and 25 Camels for Patricia. I was sorely tempted, but finally refused. He said he was from Merzouga and was spending 4 months in Essaouira. Pauline got a photograph with one of the guys. He then gave her his email address to mail a copy to him. Technological desert nomads. Lots of good photograph opportunities, but some ladies are covering their faces when a camera is around. No problem with that, we always ask anyway.

Walking along the parapets there are lines of cannons pointing out to sea. A remnant of the Portuguese I presume. The Atlantic breakers rolling in and crashing against the rocks like perpetual motion. Quite misty out to sea, the sun shining but giving an ethereal quality to the light at sea. Local drum buskers were entertaining a gang of young people, who were dancing around and jumping up and down.

A stage in the square set up for a band, maybe they play later. Lots of stalls selling fish, they cook it there and then for you. Flies come free. Overall the feel of Essaouira is quite good, no major hassle at all. The place is quite popular with coach trips it seems. All walking around in groups.

Petit Taxi back, 10 D, dropped off at the camp door. The afternoon had cost us 20 D, we didn't buy a thing. Lots of nice little memorabilia, but you can't buy everything along the way, or you need a trailer to put it in.

Stewed steak, peas, sweet corn, potatoes and chips for tea. I had the chips. The washing was dry so was taken in. I had a scan through the books and map for future destinations. Marrakech next. Pauline was particularly tired tonight, so we all got off to bed early. I had a Bourbon and Coke reading Dr Bob in Morocco, that I had on my Kindle, saved from magbaz.com the excellent travel web site. He mentioned the same guy crocheting in Essaouira that Pauline had a chat with to see how he did it, apparently Pauline says it is called Tunisian Crocheting.

Day 90 Sunday 22nd September 2013   SOD Temp 74 Deg F

Camping Sidi Magdoul   Essaouira   N 31 29.523  W 009 45.768

Alarm on for 6 - 00 am, a quiet night, although music could be heard in the distance, it went on until the early hours. Patricia didn't sleep too well. I think it was the band we had seen set up in the Medina, the sound seemed to drift in and out on the wind. It was quite loud at times. A very Moroccan style music.

Several cats prowling around the camp site, so if you'r a cat lover, this is the place for you. A family from Belgium are sat having breakfast and feeding them, the cats are fighting over the scraps.

Everything is now packed up and ready for leaving. We picked up some water and paid, 196 D for two nights. First job Diesel, 530 D, 9.04 D per litre. I asked him to fill up and the pump tripped out, but when I checked the diesel gauge it wasn't full. Never mind. Bank next for some money, Satellite Simon did well, two banks side by side. 2000 D withdrawn.

Next job was to head back near to the beach so Pauline can photograph the Camels. There is a  large car park near where they are, the guardians were out to usher us in, but I stayed on the road. We were only there for a few minutes. That job done we said goodbye to Essaouira.

Onto the R207 heading for Marrakech, a very good dual carriageway at the start. Argan trees are predominant along this road and before long we spotted the ubiquitous Moroccan scene, goats up the Argan tree, right alongside the road. Pulling over to take some pictures we were suddenly surrounded by the exploiters, looking for whatever we could give. The oldest guy I gave two beers, the children some sweets and a few Dirham. We got a quick couple of photographs and then we were off. I suspect the goats had all been given some help up the tree, around six goats, some tree branches were tied together to make perching places. Never mind, a little break for a few minutes.

The road passes through some quite moonscape terrain, with mud walled compounds dotted out in the fields. Some walled growing areas that seem well watered. Lots of evidence of recent flooding, in the fields and on the road. The road is covered with washed sand in many places, the fields still shiny and sheeny from settled water driven silt. It must get quite a downpour when it comes. Quite deep water cut channels in the fields where the water had flown.

We stopped for some dinner at Chichaoua, where there seemed to be a lot of new building going up on the road into town, all empty with no windows. Quite warm by now, the temperature slowly climbing as we moved further inland.

Rolling into Oudaya we had the usual chaotic market, so we decided to stop and buy some fruit. There had been stalls along the way, but mainly selling melons, pomegranates and grapes. Pauline stayed in the van, while Patricia shopped and I paid.  1kg Apples, 2 kg Nectarines, 2 kg Grapes, 1kg Figs, 1kg Plums for an outlay of 90 D. We always take a note book and pen, it eases communication of the price.

Arriving on the outskirts of Marrakech we set Satellite Simon for the Marjane, again he did well. We bought some necessities, also a cooked chicken for tea. Steaming hot now, the heat hit you like opening an oven door as you walked out of the air conditioned market.

While at the chicken stall there were three Pakistani  guys speaking English. I asked them where they were from. A chorus came back of "England". They thought I was from Geordie land. "No, I'm from Lancashire owl lad, oop North". The older guy who was dressed in a grey long shirt with the long squared off beard, spoke with what I thought was a Birmingham accent, he came from Stoke, the other two from Manchester. We had a good laugh about accents. He said he hated the Stoke accent. Quite a funny little interlude.

The shopping done, we headed for the camp.

The young lady on the camp reception was speaking very good English. 60 D for taxi into town, 90 D for taxi back after 7 - 30 pm she informed me.

I tried the wi fi, sat near the modem, it was hopeless, indicating 64 Mbps the best we had seen in Morocco, I think someone is joking. Can't even download a web page. Chocolate fireguard comes to mind. I just got the info that my team Wigan had won 2 - 0 today, that eased the disappointment of bad wi fi.

Yvonne and Cook our friends from Holland were there when we arrived. Nice to see them again. Chatted to them later about Greece and Turkey. Yvonne gave me a handy map for the centre of Marrakech. She rips the required pages from their travel books to take out with them, saves carrying the book she said.

Chicken, chips and salad for tea. I had a couple of beers, it was so warm I needed them. We were all tired with the heat and travel, so off to bed early. Yvonne and Cook said they are the same, tired at the end of the day, so off to bed early. Patricia was really tired not having slept well for a few nights.

Day 91 Monday 23rd September 2013   SOD Temp 74 Deg F

Camping  Le Relais de Marrakech   N 31 42.653  W 007 59.700

Awake 8 - 00 am, no alarm but the local cock was crowing early and he had another session later. We all slept well, but we some  inconsiderate Spanish, loud chatting and laughing around 3 - 00 am. It's time I bought a gun. Overcast this morning. A man has just been around selling transfers of a typical blue wrapped Moroccan, the image is everywhere. 50 D he wanted, I didn't want one, because they peel off quite easy.

After breakfast I popped into the bar with my telephone, to see if the wi fi was any better than previously. It was and it was reasonably quick. Checked mail, news etc.

Later I set up the laptop, to download all the images from the cameras. We have thousands of images now. It's going to be a long job over winter to sort them all out. I downloaded Paulines also, nearly 600 from her camera alone. I  also downloaded some video footage, from a small video camera that she has brought.

I tried the showers and had the most relaxing shower I have had since leaving England. The camp is the best we have used on this trip, excepting Cabo Pino near Malaga, back in Spain. A restaurant, swimming pool, jacuzzi, quite a nice layout of loungers around the pool, the settees for lounging and hammocks, are all set amongst palm trees, with quite a lot of green and flowers. It's the most expensive at 150 D per night, for van and three people with electric. 90 D for van and two people, 35 D for extra person, 25 D for electric. 150 D equates to £11.54 at 13 D to the pound. Compared to prices in the UK and Europe, it's very reasonable. You can understand why lots of French overwinter in Morocco. Eating vegetarian also seems to be cheap.

Pauline sampled the pool, but is disappointed that the sun has hidden behind the cloud. For myself and Patricia it's quite welcome, not being sun worshippers. Pauline says her time is limited on her trip, so she has to get the sun at every opportunity.

Had a late dinner and then booked a taxi into Marrakech. 60 D going and 90 D return after 7 - 00 pm. The taxi takes five, a young French couple had just booked also, so we shared with them, which brings the price down.

3 - 30 pm, the taxi was waiting. The young French girl, who was quite petite,  sat on her boyfriends knee, so we all got in quite comfortably. No seat belt, the belt clip was jammed with a coin. I'm not used to having no belt on, it does feel weird. I braced myself on the dashboard again, as we headed at breakneck speed into the chaos of Marrakech. Not as many donkeys and horse drawn vehicles, but lots of suicidal small motorbike riders. They really must look forward to meeting their god.

The taxi dropped us off just down from the Mosque on Avenue Mohammed V, which is a wide road with breakneck traffic going both ways. To cross it would be taking your life in your hands. Luckily we were on the right side to walk up to Djemaa El Fna and the Medina area.

We still had two roads to cross which we negotiated ok. The Mosque is on the other side of the road, we got some pictures but decided not to cross over, we had been Mosqued out in Casablanca.

Lots of horse drawn carriages lined up for hire, but trotting around in manic traffic is not my idea of a relaxing horse drawn ride.

Walking past these, we entered the world famous and quite iconic Djemaa El Fna, quite busy with people and stalls selling all kinds of wares. There are lots of Orange juice sellers. We walked across to the Medina area to search out some comfortable shoes for Patricia, she had decided to put on shoes she hadn't worn for some time and they were rubbing, after walking around two hundred yards.

So here we go, buying something in the Medina. We spotted a seller with every coloured shoe you could think of. He tried to sell a shoe which was completely inappropriate, being too narrow across the foot, but he kept insisting it will stretch.  We finally got the message through to him for a red pair of open toe slip on sandals, so there was no pressure across the foot.

 Eventually we cracked it, 150 D he wanted. We then had a little good natured banter back and forth as we settled on a price. 145 D, 140 D, 135 D, he was coming down. So I pulled out a 100 D note, put a 10 D coin with it and kept waving it around, he eventually couldn't resist the site of the money and shook my hand. Deal done, he was quite happy, a big smile on his face and a big thank you. When both sides are happy, the deal is usually ok. The shoes were very comfortable, Patricia wore them all day.

Threading our way up the Medina, we were bombarded with an assault on the senses. Not in an aggressive way, but just the sight of the multitude of traders, goods and people. Quite a few trying to sell their wares, "Come inside, look around, no charge ". We had come in with the intention of not getting bogged down with timewasters, trying to sell you something you really don't want or need. This strategy worked quite well. We could take in the sites and enjoy the experience.

To try and describe the Medina is difficult, so I will just use a series of words that come to mind from walking along.

Multi coloured material, necklaces, bracelets, coats, hats, long shirts, pashminas, slippers of every colour, multi faceted lamps, spices, daggers, knifes, multi coloured small tables, mirrors, doors, wood work of all kinds. It really is mind boggling.

In the west, businesses usually have a ratio of stock held to turnover of stock. I wondered if these guys had ever even considered that. Their shops are filled from floor to ceiling, with so many items, it must be difficult for them to know what they do have in stock. No doubt they are all good salesmen though.

Reaching the end of the main walk which is roughly central of the Medina, we came onto the Koubba Ba Adiyn, a remnant of a Mosque, a small ruin in fact, that now seems to be mainly used as a rubbish depository. Apparently it is the oldest building in Marrakech and the only Almoravid building left in Morocco !

Near here was the Musee de Marrakech.

Here we came across a lady who seemed quite stressed out. She had come into the Medina to buy two Pashminas for her daughter, telling her family she would be thirty minutes, that was three hours ago she said. She was absolutely lost. I had taken care to watch our route closely, but even then, there was a little confusion to guide her back to the square.

I sensed a little mischief from some of the guys who were pointing the way to her, Patricia and Pauline were also taking note of these guys.  So I had to say, you either believe me, or believe them. They followed me and we emerged into the square. The lady, Annie from Poole, was quite relieved, she could now make her way to her hotel.

We decided to do a little people watching, so went and had three mint teas in the Cafe de France. We sat for a while and watched the world go buy. An experience to be savoured. There were quite a few harassed looking people walking around, all looking quite confused. A teaming maelstrom of people, with more European looking people than we had encountered so far.

I decided to have a look for a small ornate box, for storing small items in the van. Back into the Medina we went. We weren't carrying lots of money, from reading horror stories of thiefs, bag snatchers and pickpockets, so I was limited in what I could pay. So I couldn't get a suitable box. I didn't want to waste their time.

The light was now falling and the square was livening up even more. The food sellers were in place, smoke drifting everywhere, drums pounding out, performers, dancers, snake charmers, story tellers

 The local guys are quite skilled in coralling people into their circle, to perform and then get their payment. The food sellers have every technique under the sun. They all have smatterings of television English. The best way to keep them at bay, was to say, I've just eaten.

I got called Ali Baba several times because of my beard. We had decided not to eat, being wary of becoming ill and having to travel. Some would say an experience missed, but I don't believe in regretting at leisure. I have returned seriously ill from France, Portugal and Turkey, all because of eating out, it's not much fun. So I'll give the experience a miss.

The taxi was arranged for 9 - 00 pm, he was waiting for us. The young French couple were also there. A breakneck ride in the dark back to camp, we paid 90 D plus 10 D as our part of the fair. Well worth the tip.

A couple of beers, cheese and biscuits over a chat to round the day off. A quite excellent day.

Day 92 Tuesday 24th September 2013   SOD Temp 74 Deg F

Camping    Le Relais de Marrakech   N 31 42.653   W 007 59.700

Awake at 8 - 20 am. I've been awake several times during the night with a rumbling tummy. The sky is overcast again, which is keeping it cool and is quite welcome. Today is a do nothing day, just rest and recreation. The sun broke through the cloud later, but it wasn't too hot. Patricia didn't sleep too well also. She is on a go slow day. No problem, she did have a little sleep, just before dinner, reading her book she dozed off.

Pauline sampled the pool and the loungers that are scattered around near the pool. Our Carl phoned and we had a long chat, good to hear his voice.

Wi fi was down again in the morning, maybe it's a regular feature of Wi fi in Morocco. There doesn't seem to be much consistency in the supply. It did come back later in the day.

Rambling around the site, I got some photographs. The site is like a little Oasis in a wasteland. Walking outside the gate it is a pretty bleak area.

Patricia and Pauline both sampled the Jacuzzi in the afternoon. Problem is, there is a switch that needs to be turned on every minute. If your in the Jacuzzi, you have to keep climbing out every minute to turn the pump on. Not a very relaxing Jacuzzi I feel. I switched it a few times, but standing in the sun switching isn't my idea of a fun afternoon.

Checked mail and news later when Wi fi came on. Had Chicken Fajitas for tea, very tasty. A fleet of big vehicles rolled in and parked near us. They looked like an invading army. In fact they looked like vehicles from Star Wars. Enormous tyres and standing really high off the ground. A ladder job to climb into them. They looked a lot over the top to me, as the saying goes. In fact they looked quite ridiculous in the environment they are in. They wouldn't have been out of place on an enormous excavation project, where they have the enormous diggers and dumpers to remove earth. Patricia feels they are a mid life crisis crowd, playing at being Indiana Jones.  One vehicle is along side of us, it absolutely dwarfs us.

 I popped into the restaurant to get the football scores, my team were losing 3 - 0 against Manchester City in the Carling Cup match. Had a beer later. Then off to bed. A quite relaxing and quiet day.

Day 93 Wednesday 25th September 2013   SOD Temp 72 Deg F

Camping   Le Relais de Marrakech   N 31 42.653   W 007 59.700

Awake at 6 - 00 am with the alarm, I think I heard the Muezzin just before the alarm, he was quiet though for a change. Had breakfast and then got sorted to be on our way.

The guitar playing French lady we met in Kenitra is on site with her husband, they live  near La Rochelle in France.

I had a chat with Sam from Chorley near Wigan, our home town. He came on camp saying we are the first people he has seen from home. I found this quite funny, because he is an Iraqi guy. He has now settled in Chorley.  His wifes name is Samir, ( I think the spelling is correct ). I'd had a couple of chats with him. They were going for a walk, he stopped to say goodbye. He is hoping to set up some kind of business in Morocco.

When leaving camp we had a little confusion over a receipt for payment. Handing the receipt to the gate man he kept it. We needed a receipt as proof of payment, so we had to chase around for another one. Eventually it was all sorted, then off we went to the local Marjane supermarket in Marrakesh. One or two items we needed to pick up. We then filled up with diesel at the station across the car park.

While leaving the petrol station, we witnessed the police wrestling with a man, who was quite violent. They soon had him down and cuffed up, no messing.

Off onto the N8, then N9 heading for the Tiz n Tichka pass over the Atlas Mountains. We have talked to a few motor homers who are afraid of crossing the Atlas Mountains. Wary of the climb and the road conditions etc.

We decided to have an early dinner before hitting the main climb over the mountains. Pulling in at a rock and fossil shop, it had a nice flat area to park. I had a look at his wares, while Patricia and Pauline prepared dinner. Quite a wide selection of rocks and fossils. The guy said he had collected them himself, only four kilometres away from his shop. Pauline wanted to buy something for Sarah Jane her daughter, so after dinner we had another look. We ended up with a split rock of Azurite. He wanted 250 D for it. We finally agreed on 50 D and three cans of beer. He said he didn't drink, being a Muslim. Maybe they were for his friends. But the're Muslim too. Ah well, someone will drink them. He was quite happy with the sale.

The Tiz n Tichka winds its way up to 7,250 feet above sea level. No really steep sections just a long and gradual climb. The road is two lanes and quite well surfaced all the way, just a little caution needed when a truck or bus is coming the other way. It's  an intriguing climb, through incredible landscapes, passing villages clinging to the hillsides. The river plunging down rapids in the valley alongside us. The houses are the same colour as the surrounding soils. Red Ochre, Grey, Greeny Grey, Brown, the colours change as you move through the terrain, quite a site to see.

Stopping in one small community to look at some fruit, a little boy approached, we are like magnets to children. The juxstaposition of ourselves and the environment we were in, is difficult to explain, justify or comprehend, if you think about it for a while. I hesitate to call these children beggars, I assume they have been taught to see us as potential targets for any kind of benefit. We gave him some sweets. Many children along the way were waving to us. At one place three young boys stood across the road to try and stop us. The only stupid thing we saw really.

Lots of guys waving red stained, false looking rocks at us. Anyone who falls for the obvious con trick attached to these stained rocks, shouldn't be there in the first place.

We got lots of pictures and video footage of the final part of the climb up the switchbacks. For anyone who doesn't want to cross the Atlas Mountains. You are missing a treat.

Arriving at the summit, where there is parking, there are the rock and fossil shops again. It really is an industry around there. I was hounded by one guy.  So I had to put him in his place, he eventually got the message. A group of Portuguese four by fours rolled in and stopped. They then got the treatment. I had to smile when one of the Moroccan guys came chasing across the car park holding a big mirror, trying to sell it to a lady, who obviously didn't want it. They really do try to make a sale at every opportunity.

We had a brew watching all this going on. All refreshed we then set off down the mountains. The last 25 miles of road to Ouarzazate was a really good surface.  The sat nav got the camp location spot on. Ouarzazate seems quite an open town driving through. But we were all ready for getting in camp and settling down. Quite an exhilarating but tiring drive, the temperature had been rising through the day also. We had a cobbled up tea, it was too warm for the meal we had planned. We were all ready for bed, we decided to have a really early night. I had a read for a while to dissipate the images of the day. This is really what motor homing is about. An excellent day.

Day 94 Thursday 26th September 2013   SOD Temp 68 Deg F

Camping Municipal   Ouarzazate   N 30 55.374  W 006  53.183

We were awakened with the dogs dawn chorus, which seems to be a feature of Morocco. Then we had the most awful Muezzin call to prayer I have ever heard. It sounded like several sirens all set at different pitches. It wouldn't have gone amiss as an air raid warning system. Thank god we got off to bed early to get a few hours sleep. I can't recall Turkey being so disruptive of sleep, although we had a few dog incidents.

Feeling a little low key this morning, tummy feeling off. We've not eaten out, so maybe it's the change of water or something.

A young couple from Leeds were camped near us. Gavin and Jenny, in their land rover Ruby. They were doing Morocco in one month, after driving through France and Spain. Quite a run in one month. I didn't chat too long, still feeling off key. They had the Morocco camping book and were heading for the Marrakech camp we had recommended.

The camp paid for, 78 D, we were on our way again heading for Tinerhir. This meant crossing the Vallee du Dades on the N10. Leaving Ouarzazate the road passes the lake created by a dam, you can see it across the stony terrain. Skoura, El Lelaa M'Gouna, Boumaine Dades are the main places along this road. I did expect a long tiring drive, but was pleasantly surprised, that there were some excellent sections of road, really smooth and whisper quiet enabling cruising at an easy 60 mph. Although some sections again were really rough.

 It is quite a flat valley. The terrain mainly like a Martian landscape, with occasional green areas which are obviously irrigated. Lots of Kasbahs old and new. Noticeably the men seemed to be in Western dress, jeans, tshirts and shirts. The women as usual in traditional long robes and scarves.

Now reading in the books we buy about places to visit, they always seem to wax lyrically about places. Vallee du Dades is another. It's a pleasant drive, with the smooth sections of road. The distant hills and mountains of various colours. The Kasbahs made of mud brick seem to be part of the landscape, being the same colour. But I wouldn't get too excited about crossing it again. Maybe I expect too much.

We stopped in Boumaine Dades to pick up some fruit, but the fruit wasn't very nice. While here I chatted to a guy from Belgium, he was sat there like a local, smoking. He got out his identity card to show me. Not sure what he was doing there. A pick up truck pulled in front of the van and proceeded to unload a pile of firewood. No decent fruit, so we headed on.

Anyway arriving at Tinerhir, the place was a dust bowl. There were road works going on, trucks everywhere. The roads in the town were the worst we have met anywhere in Morocco. They really were atrocious. There seemed to be a trench cut across the road every twenty yards, then partially filled with hardcore, leaving a drop of around four inches. Crawling through the town, we turned onto the R703 to locate the camp, this is a one track road.

This is the road leading to the Gorges du Todra, a main tourist attraction. But the road is tragic. Picking our way along the road past a Palmerie, we eventually pulled into the sanctuary of the camp.

A Brit tour team was ensconced in the camp, ten vans. They had all paid £2,500 for the privilege of being taken around Morocco. I hope they get their moneys worth. GB privilege run the tours. I chatted with a few of the guys. There is a mentality of a need for security, that's why they go for the group thing. Horses for courses I suppose.

A lazy afternoon in camp, chatting with a few of the guys on the tour. They are leaving tomorrow, I think for Marrakech. The camp is alongside some sandy stony cliffs, that look ready for being washed down, there are walls and buildings up there also.

My tummy was slowly improving as the day progressed. Bacon, egg, sausage, beans, tomatoes and mushrooms for tea. We had planned it for last night, but were too hot and tired.

The stars were really clear when I had a stroll later on. A Bourbon and a read to round the night off.

Day 95 Friday 27th September 2013   SOD Temp 70 Deg F

Tinerhir   Hotel Camping le Soleil   N 31 32.847   W 005 35.425

Awake 7 - 10 am, heard the usual dogs earlier, but no Muezzin. Patricia heard the Muezzin, he must have been quiet. The wagon train has just rolled out. Ten vans in procession. Laughably, we heard a conversation with the Moroccan guide, the tour leader asking him where they were going and where they were stopping today. He seems a well prepared leader ! Anyway, the site is really quiet now, just our van on site.

Had breakfast then Patricia and Pauline sorted some washing  to put in the washing machine, before we pop out to see the Gorges du Todra, around six kilometres up the road.

We walked down to the camp gate. There was a young guy with his taxi, his head under the bonnet. I asked him if he had a problem. No problem. 30 D to take us up to the Gorges. The old Mercedes taxis they use must do some miles, they take some hammer too, on the dreadful roads around the towns. The R703 to the Gorges, is a terrible road. Never mind, he managed to give us another white knuckle ride.

Stopping at the Gorges, conveniently at one of his mates cafes, they were on to us instantly. Hotel, drinks, taxi back. Keep smiling and say, no thanks.

The Gorges are worth seeing, incredible cliffs that form a corridor around the R703, which carries on through to towns at the other side. An hour is really all the time you need. Have a walk through, take some pictures, get accosted by all the stall holders.

There were a few climbers risking their lives on the cliffs. Apparently it is a well known place to go climbing.

I spotted some small circular metal boxes, with colourful inlaid tops. I thought they would make lovely small tablet boxes. We looked at a few, but Patricia wasn't too keen on the colour. So, I walk away, but Patricia and Pauline for some reason always feel sorry for them and are reluctant to leave them. Listening to the well rehearsed patter, about their grandad made this, it is close to my heart, it will bring you good luck, it will give you a healthy life. Salesmans talk, anything to get the sale.

Anyway, we spotted one stall, where he had the colour we liked. So I told Patricia and Pauline to carry on walking and let me buy it. I put 20 D in the little purse we have and a little change in my pocket. Preparation is the key. I valued them at around 30 D and that was all I was paying. He started at 100 D, which was not bad, we had just been asked 200 D for a similar sized one. What do you pay ? He said, the usual line, which I don't usually fall for. I told him I only had 20 D. He blinked and smiled. I again told him I only have 20 D. I pulled out the purse to show him. No go. So I fished in my pocket for a 10 D coin, there you are 30 D, that's the lot. I started walking away, but he pulled me back and put the pot in my hand. 30 D, deal done. Again he was quite happy. I do wish they would have prices on items and sell at that price. The whole bartering thing is so silly, it just undermines any credibility the seller has.

Walking back, we were approached by a young girl asking for money. A beautiful looking face, with her head scarf wrapped around and framing her features . We usually ignore all begging, but when I saw her then go rummaging in a bin close by, I decided to give her some Dirhams, but I would like a photograph. She had gone down to the river were some women were washing things in the water. I called her back, asked her could I take a photograph, she said yes. I gave her the change I had in my pocket. She rambled off. Her eyes were quite piercing when we looked at the photograph later. A beautiful young Moroccan  lady, I wonder what life has in store for her ! A little unnerving and soul stirring for me.

We have this onlooker thing as visitors, difficult, we can be exploited, we can exploit the people we see, we also cannot change the world. Travelling through we have to react as we feel. I hope we got this one right.

Another white knuckle ride back to camp, he picked up a guy and they had a loud conversation over the noise of the taxi, banging along over every bump in the road. 30 D again, dropped at the camp gate. We had enquired about a driver to take us out and back, 300 D. It cost us 60 D in all.

I set up a printer Pauline had brought out with her, so we can print off her flight documents. All now sorted, no problem. We just need Wi fi now to download them.

A Brit van rolled in later on, from Wiltshire. They had come from Merzouga. We had a chat, but we didn't see them after that. They seemed a little aloof.

Had a shower later, it started off warm but ten seconds later it was cold, but what do I expect. We are getting in Morocco mode good and proper. A relaxing day all in all. Quite windy but warm.

We had booked a meal for 7 - 00 pm, unusual for us, but we thought we would try a Tagine. Lamb Tagine, for two, chicken brochettes, chips, bread and bottled water, 283 D. Meal was o.k.  There was no one else in, we had the restaurant to ourselves.

Strolling back we admired the clear stars, the moon had been visible earlier at the Gorges, but wasn't now visible. Picked up the last of the washing, off the line we had put up.

Had a beer and a chat. Off to bed early, alarm on in the morning. A Bourbon and read to round the night off.

Day 96 Saturday 28th September 2013   SOD Temp 75 Deg F

Tinerhir  Hotel Camping le Soleil   N 31 32.847  W 005 35.425

Oh the barking dogs. Every morning, a phenomenon unexplainable. What the hell kicks them off ? We never see dogs in the day, where do they all come from. Awake long before the alarm again. It's a feature of this trip I will be glad to hear the last of.

Van all sorted we got on our way, down the R703 into Tinerhir, it's a drastic road, to get so much use. On to the N10 to Tinejdad, a good road section. At Tinejdad we switched onto the R702 to take us down to Erfoud.

Along here we met our first herd of camels coming across the desert terrain. We were stopped at a junction, for an off road town, having some dinner. We spotted them far in the distance approaching through a distant sandstorm. They came right across and stopped at a small palm tree, which must have been a watering hole.

After dinner further down the road we hit the sand storm. A quite surreal experience. The sun was shining hazy in the sky, the road was a moving swirling cloud of sand. The sand formed a moving carpet across the road, you had to keep your eye on the underlying white line that seemed to vanish at intervals. Headlights on, we could see other vehicles approaching us through the haze. Quite a weird experience.

A feature of the drive, was the number of young people on bikes. They all looked to be going to schools. Hundreds in each town. We had to thread our way through them. I was pleasantly surprised that the R702 was such a good road. We stopped at Jorf to pick up some tomatoes and grapes. The lady in the shop directing us to go inside for better tomatoes. 20.5 D in total. We also needed some money, but the hole in the wall rejected the card, so we didn't try it again.

The heat was building slowly as we got  nearer to Erfoud. Then onto the N13 to Rissany. We emerged from the dust storm as we approached Rissany.

Entering Rissany, a very tidy looking town on entering, we were flagged down by two guys. One in his full Berber outfit. I was happy to stop and ask for a bank. One hopped onto his bike, the Berber said, "my friend will take you follow him". The first bank had no money, so he led us to two more, which were near to each other. All the while he was trying to persuade us to come back in the morning for the market. They also had some business which I couldn't understand from his business card. They were very helpful, friendly and not aggressive at all. We got 2000 D from the bank. Had a chat with them for a while. But we couldn't promise to be back tomorrow.

After Rissany we were getting into the desert areas.

The N13 carries on through Rissany down to Merzouga. Here we hit a full blown sandstorm. The wind absolutely lashing the sand across the road. The road was good but constantly disappearing under the sand. Arriving at Merzouga, we missed a turn in the now absolutely opaque visibility. We again got flagged down, this time by guys out in the sand  storm trying to point us into camps. Two young European guys, speaking English, pointed out that the road ahead wasn't fit for a motor home. What I could see also convinced me, we had missed a turn.

Just then a fleet of four wheel drives came in by a side road, heading back to where we had just come from. Turning around and minding not to run over my persistent tout, we headed back through Merzouga and found the missed turn off.

We soon picked up where we were headed, signs for the auberge looming out of the haze. Arriving in proximity to the auberge, I had to get out of the van and walk in, to assess where I could drive the van.

My Shamal around my head and Tour de France snood around my mouth, sun glasses over my eyes, I stepped out of the van. The sand whipping around my legs and stinging like a thousand small needles. I negotiated my way to the Auberge, found the entrance and located the main guy. He indicated where to park, which gave us shelter from the wind. Bringing the van in, it was good to get out of the main onslaught of the sand and wind, into the quite sheltered side of the auberge. An experience that will live long in the memory.

I passed the electric cable through a small window for him to plug us in. 50 D quoted for the night with electric. Not bad at all.

I had the usual sales pitch, 4x4 drive, camels, tagine etc. But his menu didn't appeal. Turkey tagine he said.

We watched a tourist party mount their camels and go into the desert for the night. 94 Deg F in van, so we didn't cook, just had a snack. Dust everywhere. I had a couple of beers that went down a treat. The wind was slowly settling down. We again got off to bed early with the alarm on for 6 - 00 am.

Day 97 Sunday 29th September 2013   SOD Temp 78 Deg F

Merzouga   Auberge Camping le Traditional   N 31 04.893  W 004 00.421

Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. Still dark. A quick cuppa and then out into the dunes for the sunrise. Patricia was a little overwhelmed with the heat, wind and dust when we arrived yesterday, but she is overwhelmed by the beauty of the desert dawn this morning. It really is worth getting up for. The large dune, Erg Chebbi is right near the van, just over some small dunes. But it would take incredible climbing skills to top it. The sun rises just to the left of it. We had a lovely hour taking photographs.

Arriving back at the van, the camel train we saw leaving last night, was arriving back. All the camels strolled past the van door to be watered and fed. I got some photographs and video of them.

Breakfast and then, into the hectic schedule of doing nothing in particular. A relaxation day today.

I had a stroll around taking some photographs. Walking past a house near us, I came across two ladies washing, with all the clothes hung out to dry. One had a pile of folded up washing on her head. She wouldn't let me take a photograph when I asked.

The heat slowly building through the day, 95 Deg F in the van during the afternoon. We had the fan running constantly.

The Camel train returned and was watered and fed near the van. Some camels getting a clout with a plastic pipe for hogging the food.

I set up the small electric ring and slow cooker to cook tea outside. Pork, tomatoes, sweetcorn, onions, a tagine type mix all cooking during the afternoon.

Two young Berber lads came and sat away from the van, they laid out a few things to sell. They both spoke English, both 21 years old. We bought a couple of presents from them for 180 D, they wanted 250 D. A deal was done and they were both happy. They wrote their prices out in the sand, so did I. We had a chat with them and got some photographs. They both had jeans on under their robes. They joked, they were Berber Jeans. Both seemed quite likeable young guys.

I noticed that the dunes had afternoon shadows on them, so I had a walk out with Pauline to get some more photographs. The  sand was really hot to the feet. Kicking the edge of a dune, the sand ran down like water, quite intriguing watching the pattern develop.  It was now blisteringly hot and we both needed a good long drink when we got back.

In the afternoon the camels all came plodding in line past the van, to get some more food at the point where they had saddled up last night. No one with them, they all strolled past in line.

Two small boys Mohammed and Hassan kept trotting past during the day, they seem to be related to the auberge owner, maybe his sons. They got a few sweets from us during the day.

An older lady came out to the trough where all the camels had watered. She proceeded to wash her face, then started to hose down a plastic tub, which she then left and walked away from. She was bundled up in several layers of clothes, the top one being black. It was absolutely baking hot. Pauline walked over and had a simple conversation with her. Her shoes were wearing thin she said, so Patricia donated her a pair of red plastic clogs. Pauline gave her a bra. She was sat in the shade of a mud brick pile.  She popped them in a bag which was under her clothes. She allowed us to take a photograph.

The afternoon was spent sat in the shade of the van, watching the comings and goings around us. Which at one point around 2 - 00 pm came to an absolute standstill. Not a thing moving anywhere, the heat at a maximum I feel, total silence, just the occasional buzz of an energetic fly. It's difficult to imagine a silence like it in England.

A quite memorable lazy day, spent in a quite unique environment, so close to the desert.

We had our tagine with couscous for tea. A couple of beers to end the day. 92 Deg F in the van, no need for the hot water bottles tonight.

Day 98 Monday 30th September 2013   SOD Temp 80 Deg F

Merzouga   Auberge Camping le Traditional   N 31 04.893  W 004 00.421

Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. Again no dogs, oh what peace. Patricia says she heard the Muezzin, I didn't. He must have been quiet. I had to get up at 12 - 30 pm to put the roof vents down, the wind had picked up and was blowing a gale. Well the gale settled down later and a quiet dawn. A distant quiet Muezzin and no barking dogs this could be a favourite place.

Pack up this morning, toilet done, some water loaded. Some last minute photographs. We also collected a little pot of sand, our own Sahara souvenir. The owner of the Auberge has been walking past a few times. He has a digger in to remove some of the sand, or the drive in will become blocked. He really looks an unhappy, troubled man.

N13 away from Merzouga, we are now beginning the homeward bound leg of the trip. Rissani, Erfoud, where we had passed through on the way down to Merzouga. We picked up 6x 2 litre bottles of water in a small town we don't know the name of. Nameless small towns and villages are a feature of Morocco. Not on the map or sat nav many of them. Ar Rachidia, where we missed a turn somewhere and ended down a minor road, until we picked up the N13 in town. We pulled into an Afriqia petrol station for dinner, not many stopping places on the road. Parked alongside a large diesel truck we had dinner, very warm at this stage 96 Deg F in the van.

After Ar Rachidia we entered a quite barren, but spectacular landscape, going through the Gorges du Ziz.

One of the good things about Morocco is the quite spectacular and at times stunning landscapes we have passed through. Just before this area we passed a large lake created by a dam. It actually was quite low on water. There is a tunnel on the map called Tunnel de Legionnaire, which seemed to be a significant mark on the map. It turned out to be a hole knocked in a spur of rock, maybe about 20 metres long. The only tunnel I can remember though.

We passed a minibus loaded inside with people, the roof was also loaded with boxes, three goats and five guys. All the guys were waving at us and smiling. Not a recommended way to travel. One guy with his leg on the ladder at the back, with his other leg straddled over the retaining bar on the roof. He smiled a lot.

At the Midelt side of the Gorges, we stopped at a roadside stall to buy some fruit. One of the guys on the stall had the worst set of teeth I have ever seen in my life. He must have terrible trouble with them. He offered me a split walnut, but I had a sweet in my mouth, which I indicated to him. He pointed at his teeth and said something. Maybe, "you"ll have teeth like mine, sucking sweets ". 1kg of plums, 1kg red  Apples, 1kg of green apples, 50 D. They gave us some fruit we hadn't seen before, looking like a shrivelled pear. He said it was for the tagine. The overloaded minibus passed us, all again shouting and waving at us. A few miles down the road we passed them again, like old friends they were all waving and smiling as we passed. The minibus doing a slower steady pace with its load.

The last 40 miles were quite uneventful, rolling through lots of features that had now become quite familiar to us. Palmeries, mud enclosures, tumbling down mud houses. One thing we noticed was that there seemed to be a lot of new paint along the road, walls, posts, kerbs, guys sweeping and painting kerbs in towns. Maybe something is scheduled to happen.

Arriving at the Midelt camp, it looked a nice neat and tidy site, block paved pitches etc. But the toilets were the most disgusting we had set eyes upon. The actual infrastructure was excellent, tiled and terrazzo floor. But it looked like someone had shot the cleaner long ago. Toilet bowls full of excrement, shower bases absolutely filthy, cobwebs covered with dead flies strung across the toilet cubicles.

The temperature plunged as the sun set, we are at 4,900 ft here, so it's understandable. I chatted to a French guy from Cannes. An old hand on travelling in Morocco, Tunisia and Libya. I borrowed his hose to run off some water from the awkwardly located tap on the pitch, it was a little difficult to access them. I have a hose but it was underneath in the bunker storage.

Pasta for tea. I was quite tired when we arrived, the Pasta picked me up somewhat. A read, a chat and an early night. A starry night, the coolest we have had for a while. The campsite was all lit up by then.

Day 99 Tuesday 1st October 2013   SOD Temp 64 Deg F

Midelt  Camping Municipal   N 32 40.674  W 004 44.235

Well another dogs chorus to awaken the day, this is becoming monotonous. I'm sure we have never had so many mornings where dogs have awakened us. Around 5 - 00 am they kick off. We then have the Muezzin who joins in for good measure. Midelt has a cacophony of Muezzins. I would be very interested in seeing how many of the faithful get up to go to the Mosque at that time of the morning.

The coolest morning for a while this morning.

Leaving Midelt we got onto the N13 across the Plateau de L'arid. Zeida, Boul dJoul, Ait Oufella, then over Col de Zad, which topped out at 7,220 ft. Just a little less than the Tiz n Tichka pass.

We stopped in Timahdite for fruit, altogether we spent 25D.

While crossing the Col de Zad, we stopped for some children who were waving from across the fields. They came running. We only had sweets for them, they did ask for clothes and shoes. We tried to ask their names, but they didn't understand us at all. No French understood, so I presume their only language was native Berber or Arabic. Lovely children again.

We came down off the mountain through the Forest de Cedres, the biggest forest we had seen. It reminded me of parts of Belgium.

By contrast to the area where we had met the mountain children, we rolled into Ifrane, not many miles down the road. It was like entering a Swiss village, all new white houses with red tiled steep angled roofs. Newly laid out roads. Trees and green grass. It was an absolute contrast to anything we had seen in Morocco. I joked, had we passed through some time warp and landed in the Alps. The answer was forthcoming from the information book. The king has a Palace there. So he doesn't have to see anything that might offend his eyes. I wondered if the mountain children knew or understood anything about Ifrane.

We found a place to park near the Halte Routiere building near the Petit Taxi ranks. Lots of young people strolling around, apparently there is a University in Ifrane. Interestingly the young ladies were all in western clothes, no headscarves were evident.  The young lads were as usual in jeans, t shirts and shirts. Trainers and pumps were popular. We have noticed that the men adopt modern clothes, while the majority of women still wear traditional clothes, particularly the head scarve. But we didn't see it here.

From Ifrane the countryside changed, more green was noticeable and the houses also seemed to be a lot more affluent.

Apples, Apples, everywhere, miles and miles of trees and roadside stalls selling them. It did seem quite an agricultural area. Maybe that's why the housing seems of a higher standard. We started to see satellite dishes as we approached Fez.

Needing a big shop to stock up we spotted the Marjane as we entered Fez on the N8. We also attracted a tout, trying to take us to Camping International. Mounted on his scooter, speaking decent English. I told him we were going to Marjane, “no problem, I follow you”, he said. He started to rattle on about Camping International and his brother who could take us touring around Fez for 250D. I told him we would be shopping so he needed to wait. "I see you later."

Shopping done, he was still there when we came out, I presume he had gone and come back. Now one thing a Moroccan tout doesn't understand about me is that when I say no, I mean no. No amount of his waffling changes my mind. I told him we were going to Camping International anyway, so we didn't need him. Also we would be getting a petit taxi into town and a petit taxi back, as we had done in Marrakech. Slowly the message sank in. "I give you my telephone number, you call me in the morning, my brother take you round in his taxi." Yeah, ok. Sat nav set for Camping International, it was around two miles from Marjane, no problem at all.

Lots of space between trees when we arrived, the pitches are a little confusing, it just seems to be spaces amongst the trees. A shower was first thing, not bad at all. In contrast to the last place.

We had bought a Poulet Roti, so some chips for me and pasta for the ladies. Tea was very enjoyable.

Chatting and reading for a while. I tried my Moroccan SIM card again, INWI is the company, it really has been an absolute waste of my money. I bought it mainly to text and cut down on call cost of £3 outgoing, £1.25  incoming, with a Three SIM, which is bloody ridiculous. But the service has been tragic, no incoming texts at all, with minimum incoming calls. No service most of the time. Chocolate fireguard comes to mind.

I have mentioned before about being tired at the end of the day, a feature of this trip. I'm sure it's because of the heat, which started back in France. As usual, all ready for bed.

Day 100 Wednesday 2nd October 2013   SOD Temp 74 Deg F

Fez   Camping International des Fez   N 33 59.917  W 004 58.123

No alarm this morning, awake just after 7 - 00 am, I heard the Muezzin and the usual dogs chorus earlier. A little road noise can be heard, but not too intrusive.

Had cheese spread and bread for breakfast for a change. Usually I have cereal.

I heard an English voice on the telephone nearby yesterday, but there was no English registered vans. This turned out to be Colin and Pat, both English, but now living in France. Both on a flying tour of the North of Morocco. They live in the South of France. They were just packing up and leaving.

We had planned going into Fez in the afternoon, so no hurry this morning. I had a stroll around the camp. Just like strolling through a deserted city film set. Pool deserted but still full with water, a layer of dust dead flies and leaves on it. No cover at all. A beautiful building that to be truthful I couldn't make up my mind what it was. It was either a highly decorated ballroom, with a stage at one end, or a Mosque. Highly ornate roof, columns and chandeliers. The door was open a little, no one around, so I had a good look inside. No carpets on the floor at all, just tiled, which added the query to its purpose. Covered dining area outside, with a bar cafe facility nearby. An overgrown grassy childrens play area nearby. All totally deserted. We're now in October, so I assume it was probably busy in the Moroccan holiday season.

We had dinner and then walked out to flag a taxi down to go into the Medina area. No problem, just up the road we got one, already a guy in it, so we squeezed into the back. It was a bit of a task to get the driver to understand where we wanted to go. He pulled up at a bus stop to show the English map of the Medina that I had for him. A young woman in a head scarve wouldn't pay any attention to me at all. I asked her in English and in French, but she wouldn't even look at me. She just kept speaking to the driver. Quite unusual, we have always been able to communicate with the ladies. Some more reticent than others. Eventually a guy stepped forward and we got some recognition of our destination.

Arriving at the Mosque and petit taxi area, we were inundated with loutish touts. The taxi driver tried for 100 D, no way, I paid him a reasonably sixty, it's quite a few miles from the camp.

He spoke to one of these touts, who immediately seemed to think that we were his property. We also had three others babbling away in pigeon English. One was really ignorant, he seemed to think we had come to Morocco to dole out cash to all and sundry. I told them all, we didn't need them, but it was like talking to the wall. They were aggressive and relentless. One being particularly obnoxious, with Pauline and Patricia, while I was engaged with two other idiots.

I did recognise within a short distance that the Medina was totally different than others we had experienced. Seedy, narrow, an absolute rabbit warren with no discernable sky line for location. One of the guys was a little more polite than the others, so I pulled him aside and had a word with him. A deal was done, no money mentioned, but there was still an air of mistrust from me.

Two obnoxious little sh*ts, followed us for a while, not sure why, but I confronted them further along and they gave up eventually.

Our guide was Abdullah, a student he said, aren't they all. We visited a school, 10 D each, no mention when we went in, but they collared us on the way out. Quite interesting, so probably worth the 10 D. I told Abdullah that it was deducted from his fee. He pointed out various places, in the narrow medieval alleys, some so narrow, you would have a job squeezing down them if you had eaten a Mars bar.

He eventually passed us on to an older guy to go to the tannery area. A carpet shop came into the conversation. “You just look no need to buy”. He said. No chance, we go to the tannery or nowhere I told him, we do not want carpets. He got the message. He pointed out the different little shops, they all seemed to be making and not selling. We then went into a leather shop which I allowed, because I could smell the tannery and I knew the best view was from overlooking balconies. I hoped this was where it was leading. All ok, the shop keeper led us up stairs, gave us sprigs of mint to sniff, which were not needed really. The balcony overlooked the medieval tannery, a quite unique place. Vats and leather, drying racks, all various colours. We were told that they still use natural dyes, but I'm skeptical about that. It was a totally fascinating scene, not to be missed.

On leaving, we had the usual ritual of looking at their wares, then having to walk out. All high priced leather items, there are better prices elsewhere. There was some beautiful leather though.

Next, an embroidery shop that sold all sorts. Four women sat getting Repetitive Strain injuries, with needlework, all sat under bright lights for their eyesight to work on fine mesh cloth.

The whole area had a very seedy atmosphere to it. Seedy looking young men on every corner, all eyeing everyone up who passed through. It all seemed very teritorial. Nods and quick conversations, like a local Mafia. The older guy phoned Abdullah up to meet us. He obviously wanted his cash. The afternoon had been very warm, not very relaxing, needing a quite agressive stance from me to ensure we weren't led a song and dance.

So we asked Abdullah to lead us to the Petit taxi, which he did, the old guy following along. They had an argument between themselves, about money I presume. They always say, “ no problem” when you ask if there is a problem.  I told Abdullah to come with me while I paid him. I didn't want the older guy knowing what I was going to pay him.

100 D, you sort out any other guys you need to pay yourself. I had told him all along what the score was. It was a relief to get away from the toxic atmosphere around the area we had visited. Sad really, because we had never had any really nasty incidents at all up to today, nothing to cause any concern anyway.

We had some fun in the taxi on the way back, he didn't know where the site was, eventually we got there. 40 D, I paid him 50 D for his good humor, he was no problem, a nice guy. He went to camping Diamond Vert first, no we don't live there.

A Brit van, Colin and Diana on site when we got back. I had a good chat and look at maps with Colin. It was Dianas birthday. A lovely couple feeling their way into Morocco. They had been grabbed by the scooter guy and agreed for the 250D tour he had tried to sell us. They also complained about the guy on reception. A little Hitler Colin called him. They were obviously not pleased with him. Nice couple and good to have a chat and try to help them.

Thunder and lightening after tea, so we battened down the awning and put the chairs away. Chatted about the days events. Mainly around how obnoxious the young guys had been in the Medina. I suppose we have young idiots in England like them. Glad to say, my three sons would never treat anyone in the manner we were treated.

But, that's what we travel for I suppose, to have experiences and formulate opinions and impressions. We need to probably see Fez some other time, let's lay it to rest for now.

I had a beer and a Bourbon. To round the day off. I'm learning fast about Morocco.

Day 101 Thursday 3rd October 2013   SOD Temp 76 Deg F

Fez   Camping International des Fez  N 33 59.917  W 004 58.123

Up 8 - 00 am, but I had been awake for a while. Guess what ? Dogs barking. Off to Moulay Idriss this morning, but it's only around fifty miles so there is no hurry.

We had breakfast and then organised the van ready for getting off. I left a note stuck to Colin and Dianas door with my email address on, asking them to let us know how they did on their tour of Fez.

A last minute few photographs. Pauline had found a Pomegranate bush, so she wanted a Photo of that to show her grandchildren.

We called into Marjane for a couple of things, just a quick in and out. No tout on a scooter this time. The sat nav steered us around Fez onto the N6, then onto the N4 signed for Sidi Kacem.

The road around Fez is absolutely awful, potholes everywhere. I joked, that there should be a new Olympic sport called dodge the pothole, the Moroccans would probably win gold every time. The competitors would all be from Fez. What dire roads people put up with. Some holes must be at least 4 to 5 inches deep.

Out of Fez the terrain became quite agricultural, lots of Olive groves and other bushes in well ordered lines, up and down the hills. Still some pot holes until we were well away from Fez.

Fez isn't doing too good in this diary at all. Is it ?

Setting off late, we were soon stopping for dinner. We came upon some stalls selling fruit, overlooking a lake. Quite a lovely scene. The lake wasn't shown on the map. A stallholder said it was Lac Du Barrage. Presumably created by a dam. Across the lake was mountains that reminded me of the white cliffs of Dover. They seemed to be chalk. Really white in the distance. The lake did look beautiful and light blue. Plantations to the right, some ruined houses on the left, possibly vacated for the flooding of the dam. What seemed like a small lakeside holiday area across the lake, grass sun umbrellas lined out. A small island in the centre of the lake, one or two small boats, sheep and cows grazing.

We tried to shop at a stall, the only one who had plums for sale. But while dealing with the guy, he turned his back on us when a Moroccan lady spoke to him, he then totally ignored me talking to him. So as anywhere else, if we meet ignorant sales people we don't buy. He lost a sale of all of his plums.

Simon the sat nav steered us past the correct turn and we ended on the N13 for Ouazzane, we had about two miles to drive back. We had seen a sign but trusted the sat nav, it was a simple enough route for it.

We needed N4 leading to the N13 for Meknes.

Along here we finally found Volubilis. Turning into the road leading down to Volubilis we were flagged down by a stall holder pleading with us to sleep there. We had a location for the next guy along, who was reasonably laid back. Mohammed Samir, had an entry in the camp book. We would decide later.

At Volubilis 10 D for parking to the guardian, who asked me for a beer. I promised him one to keep an eye on the van. Patricia and Pauline made a brew, while I had a look at a stall across the car park. The old guy on the stall seemed quite laid back, he asked if we had any clothes to exchange in a deal. A good price to you. So I thought we would try him out.

I tried with three t shirts of excellent quality to trade for a small box. He then wanted 1500 D on top of the t shirts, no, no. He then went down to 800 D. I'm afraid my patience with these guys has really run thin, so I cut it short, picked up the t shirts and walked away. He followed me to the van, still chunnering about his daughters. I'm sure that the Moroccan sellers view, is that we are all idiotic cash machines over there to dole out to all and sundry.

10 D each to enter Volubilis, quite ridiculously cheap. Guys all around, all looking like hovering vultures.

Luckily no one tried to hound us as a guide, he would have been given very short shrift.

Volubilis is the largest Moroccan Roman site, but again not being looked after. The mozaics are open to the elements and will not last very much longer without cover. A laid back stroll around, quite warm and no touts dogging every step. We had one guy selling post cards, 10 for 40 D. I negotiated 15 D. Again we had all the pitch, my children, my family. He did speak a little English, so he understood when I told him, I'd heard it all before. Not too intrusive though. We carried on strolling and taking photographs. Not too many people around at all. Coming off the site we walked past the museum, closed. But it looks like that it will be the entrance in the future. Money spent on that, but no simple shelter for the mozaics.

Back at the van the guardian got his beer, asking for more, any vino, they always want more. He was ok though. A coach party was leaving, it was 6 - 30 pm by then.

Driving up the road away from the site, we passed Mohammed Samir, we got a friendly wave. The guy on the end stall came chasing out and running after the van. Maybe he expected me to stay and dole out some cash.

Sat nav set for the campsite, quite a longer drive from Volubilis than it indicates in the book. But it was spot on location wise. A nice little camp site, a couple of vans on when we arrived. But I spotted a few dogs on site, oh no.

Just had a cobbled up tea, rolls etc. A bottle of beer and good chat about the day. Nice to chat over the days events. All in all, a lovely laid back day.

Volubilis thank you. For me there is some kind of magic in wandering around historical sites. I sometimes wonder if there is something that blows on the winds of time, in places that have had long periods of people living there, with all the trials and tribulations of life. They then become deserted due to economic changes, but the whole feel of the places are imprinted on the sites, leaving an aura to be tuned into by the true traveler and dreamer. I do feel we have missed the historic element on this trip.

Day 102 Friday 4th October 2013   SOD Temp 75 Deg F

Near Moulay Idriss   Camping Bellevue    N 34 00.876  W 005 33.690

Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. An amazing night, no dogs surprisingly, after spotting a few last night and no Muezzin. This camp could score a ten out of ten. Total peace and quiet at the moment, only the buzzing of a wasp trying to get in by a roof vent.

Paid fees, 115 D. The camp has a swimming pool, but it was nearly empty, just a brown scummy amount of water on the bottom. A little bar cum cafe. I peeped through a curtain and there was work in progress on a room behind the cafe. Concrete and planks etc. lying around the room.

Leaving the camp we started on the N13 up past Volubilis, we had been on this road yesterday. We then went along the N4, to pick up the N13 again and head north to Chefchaouen.

Here I have to say that this section of road, which went on until Ouazzane, around 45 miles, was the worst road I have ever driven on. Absolutely atrocious. I never had time to look at any surrounding scenery, I was watching every inch of the surface to avoid potholes, cracks, cambers, edge of the road disappearing. We were down to 20 and 30 mph for mile after mile. I also had to allow for traffic coming the other way, steering around the rough parts of the road.

We had dinner in Ouazzane at a space that seemed to be reserved for taxis. I was totally in need of a break. My head was like a punch bag after the jarring and banging of the last three hours. Three hours for around 45 miles, that tells its own story.

Thank god after Ouazzane the road improved 1000% and I could finally relax and look at some passing scenery. Lots of houses with corrugated tin roofs seemed to appear along this section of road. They reminded me of pictures of houses in Indo China. The landscape was quite green and had well organised plantations of Olives etc. But on the whole, not a very interesting leg of the trip. We had some nice scenery approaching Chefchaouen.

The sat nav steered us to the camp site, but was again slightly incorrect, showing the camp to be further on than it was. There are some Brit vans on site, another tour group, Desert Detours, I think they are called. Had a chat with one of the group and his wife, I mentioned the bad road. Don't know if it will be of any use to them. There are a couple of caravans in the group, I definitely don't fancy towing a caravan along that section of road.

The site isn't up to much, but is the second dearest we have stayed on at 140 D per night. No pool or restaurant, all basic amenities. Lots of piles of soil dumped all around the periphery of the site, like a builders dump.

Chicken stir fry for tea, very nice indeed. I must say, Patricia is an excellent cook, boy am I lucky. We again discussed being tired at the end of the day while in Morocco. It's a  combination of things, but for me the attention to driving and the heat is probably the two main factors.

An early night again for us all. The camp is quiet and dark.

Day 103  Saturday 5th October 2013   SOD Temp 70 Deg F

Chefchaouen   Camping Azilan   N 35 10.559  W 005 15.993

Up 7 - 10 am, a quiet and peaceful night, didn't hear dogs or Muezzin, just a cock crowing, which must have had a lie in, it was around 7 - 00 am. A van leaving site as we put the kettle on, early leavers. It actually felt chilly during the night.

A no rush morning, we are planning to go into Chefchaouen. Sunny again, but it's a little late here,  it has to rise over the mountains behind us.

I popped into reception to query ordering a Petit Taxi, no problem he said, just let me know ten minutes before you want to leave. It was a different story when we were leaving. Patricia and Pauline called in first, while I locked up the van. He wanted one of his friends to run us, but it would be 15 D each way. I called in and reminded him he had promised to call a taxi. He said his telephone was out of credit, his friend would run us, but would have to come back, so it would be 15 D each way. I ignored the guy, he came over as very arrogant and cocky. So I spoke to his friend, sorted it out with him. He ran us down and dropped us off at a cash machine, I paid him 20 D. It was only just down the hill, but it was to save Pauline walking in. He was a lot nicer guy than the receptionist, who came over as the usual, lying every time he opened his mouth Moroccan tout, always on the look out to make a Dirham. I'm sure it must be in the DNA of some of them.

The guy who ran us spoke a little English, he ran us in a 4x4 jeep, which he uses for his business doing tours etc. He was pretty sensible and helpful. There seems to be something in their eyes and I am getting attuned to it, to pick out the idiots who think we're wallet carrying patsies.

At the cash machine, no money came out, ah, what to do now. I watched as one young guy got his money, he spoke English, we had done everything right. Pauline tried and it worked. We tried and it worked. The only difference was, we had pressed for savings account instead of current account on the failed transaction. Ah well, hope it's all sorted, we made a note of the time, place and failed transaction.

Chefchaouen turned out to be a lovely laid back place. We had a great few hours wandering around the Medina, doing some shopping and taking lots of photographs. Absolutely no hassle at all. A very photogenic place.

Pauline bought a Kaftan, a pencil case and a pen, also some small colourful tassles. We bought a wooden box, two small leather carrier pouches, pencil case, pen and postcards and the colourful tassles.

Cheekily asking the tassle man, to throw one in to put on my guitar, a lovely light blue one.

The change in attitude compared with Fez was incredible. The people smiling, children playing, the white and blue streets a pleasure to stroll around. The salesmen helpful and not too pushy at all.

We finished the afternoon with cokes and a mint tea, in a cafe just across from the Kasbah in the square. Watching the world go by. Also watching one sad, I presume,  mentally ill guy picking up cigarette stumps and generally wandering around in his own world. He was once someones small child. Sad to see.

We also had a Moroccan Nigel Kennedy, screwing an awful din out of a Violin, kidding the cafe customers he was playing it, pretending to busk, he had around four notes that he repeated over and over. It became a bit painful to me, I hope his customers were impressed, I wasn't.

Some brief notes follow. Five children eating crisp sat on a step. Children playing with wooden spinning tops. Donkeys used for delivering goods to shops. Kaftan buying, waiting while the first guy brought more, but unsuccessful. Weavers in small rooms. Old guy sleeping, his son said he was 100 years old. Tried to buy scarf from him. 400 D, but not a Berber scarf, too short, so no deal. Small workshops. An artist at work, he was from London. A little arrogant and flippant I thought. Not the way to win friends and influence people. Small boy learning wood cutting with his dad.

But there is always an ill wind blowing somewhere, two small incidents. One guy selling postcards, because we didn't want to buy his, all dusty and curled up, no wonder really. He was abusive. I had to confront him, he said the usual, "No problem". Then added sullenly, "All happy like chickens". He had a really surly, sly demeanour. Like I said, it was in the eyes.

Another guy selling tomatoes when we were on our way out, 6D per kg, Pauline just mentioned to me we had paid 4 D last time we bought them. He picked up his scale tray and dumped them back in the box. Oh well, we"ll not bother then.

But no real hassle, just two guys with slight personality problems. They would have happier lives if they chilled out a little.

We got a petit taxi back to the camp.

I chatted with one of the tour group parked across the camp from us. He turned out to be a German guy with his son in an English registered van. He came from Ormskirk near Wigan. In fact about 6 or 7 miles from Wigan. He had lived in Ormskirk for 25 years.  He was on his second Moroccan trip, the first was 13 years ago on an off road trip.

Also chatted with a guy from a Brit caravan parked alongside us. They are on the way back, this is as far south as they are going. Just a brief trip into Northern Morocco he said. There is a caravan with the tour group, not something I would fancy doing. Caravans have never interested me at all.

We also had a look at the pottery shed just inside the camp gates. There is an enormous selection of pottery for sale. We bought two outdoor candle burners, two slippers and two plates 120 D. A better price than we have been asked at various stalls. They were covered in dust and seem to be an idea left to die. A job lot bought on the off chance of selling them. It's hard to tell the colour of some of them for the dust. Pay in the morning when we are leaving he said.

I went for a stroll while Patricia and Pauline prepared tea, Spaghetti Bolognese. Outside of the camp gate a young guy approached me, asking where I was from. When he established I was English, he started speaking in English. Did I want to buy a little Hash. No, but we had an interesting conversation. He sells to Moroccan men who don't or can't drink beer. I couldn't clarify from him, if the alcohol thing was written in the Quran. I couldn't get an answer from him, I don't think he really understood my question. An interesting little interlude. He was hanging around the Youth Hostel just outside the camp gates.

All in all a good day. Darkness fell around 7 - 30 pm revealing a beautiful Venus shining in the Western sky accompanied by a howl hooting in the pine trees.

A beer and a whiskey and coke later. I had a read to finish the day.

Day 104  Sunday 6th October 2013   SOD Temp 70 Deg F

Chefchaouen   Camping Azilan   N 35 10.559  W 005 15.993

Alarm on for 6 - 00 am, cock was again crowing but just before the alarm. A peaceful night, didn't hear any Muezzin. Breakfast and then prepared for the off. Toilet sorted and water topped up. 140 D per night, two nights stay, so a total with the pots we bought of 400 D.  The Desert Detours group are also leaving at 10 - 30 am. I noted the tour leaders van is registered in Spain, so the business is also probably in Spain, but targeted at British customers.

Leaving the site we set Satellite Simon to take us to the N13, again a bad choice of road from the sat nav, luckily an old Moroccan guy spotted us just turning into the road and pointed out not to go down it. Teutouan is down down the other road he said and he was spot on. No problem after.

Not far out of Chefchaouen we stopped at a roadside stall to pick up some fruit. 1kg tomatoes, 1 kg red apples, 1.5kg green apples, 1kg red grapes, 1 kg green grapes, 0.5 kg pears, 1kg plums, 0.5 kg green peppers, 1kg potatoes and 2 pomegranates. A total of 94 D, we gave them 103 D with the change we had. Incredible excellent value. Also a good humored family business, nice people. The fruit standard was excellent also.

We noticed four dams in passing. It looks like there are some big dam projects going on. They all seem to be under construction.

Passing through Tetouan we passed the Marjane so popped in for a couple of things. Two Pulet Roti for 64 D, they were on special offer, £4.75 in English money. Bread, Fig Jam, Bananas.

We decided to look at Cabo Negro and  have some dinner, it was only a few miles down the road. What a good idea. The road in was excellent, a large free car park welcomed us.  Chicken dinner completed, we had a stroll on the beach front. It does seem a very nice laid back place now, out of season. Some quiet music playing from a drinks kiosk nearby. But I would think it gets quite busy in season. There is lots of acommodation around. Also a golf club local.

From Cabo Negro to Ceuta was now endless holiday accommodation, particularly on the beach side of the road we were driving along.

We needed Diesel and a Post Box. First a Post Box, Satellite Simon indicated one in M'diq , there was, but it was closed and we had to nogotiate a Sunday market to get to it. Typical chaos all over the roads.

Afriqia for diesel, "Complet, sil vous plait ". 450 D, only problem was, it wasn't "complet", still quarter of the tank to fill when I left. I did suspect it from the price. So turn around and have another go, another 200 D with a different pump attendant did the job.

Abandoning the post box search we headed for the border. The usual touts waving papers. We were of the understanding that we had all the papers we needed, yellow papers all filled in. But no, they wanted white papers, identical information to the yellow. So we had to pull over and fill the white ones in. No big problem.

Laughably there is a sign indicating no car horn blowing. What a waste of a sign, idiots blasting horns continuously in the lines of cars. One Moroccan customs guy asking us about our stay, how long we had been on the road. A nice sociable guy. No problems at all. Spanish customs just waved us through.

Straight to the Marina in Ceuta for overnight. Showers just across the Marina from where we are parked. No hook up, cars parked in the places near the Motorhome friendly hook up points. All the rest are big marine plug points.

Tea of Chicken sauteed potatoes, sweetcorn and bread. A vote was had, I wrote out three voting slips, yes on one side, no on the other. The question was, "Would you come back to Morocco ?"  Three slips were laid on the table, all showing yes. Despite some incredible extremes we have seen, it really is a country worth seeing.  A big experience, would sum it up in three words.

I had a couple of beers to round the night off.

Day 105 Monday 7th October 2013   SOD Temp 75 Deg F

Ceuta Marina   N 35 53.430  W 005 18.831

Alarm on for 7 - 00 am, but we have been awake for a while, a wind sock on the Marina has been clicking for ages. Not sure why it clicks, it started during the night. Had breakfast and watched a couple of Catamarans docking. Two different docking abilities it seemed. The first one seemed to be all panic and running around, it bumped the yacht alongside of it, they didn't get any padding in between the two.

The second one, steered in, tied up, absolutely spot on, no problem at all. A German family were on the first Catamaran, with a little boy sat on his toy car, which was on the cross netting between the two hulls.

The first job today is to download Paulines flight documents from the Ryan Air website. Strolled across to McDonalds with Pauline, they were closed until 12 - 00 pm, so we sat on the wall outside and did the job there. Patricia joined us just as we had finished. I went back to the van to print off the docs, Patricia and Pauline went into town for some money and a few groceries.

Docs done we had dinner, moved the van to the other side of the Marina and sorted the toilet. Patricia walked back to the kiosk to pay and tell them to open the big gate for us. 15 Euros paid for one day. The guy opened the gate, Gracias and we were away to the dock. Easy entry to the dock, quite clearly signed. We had the last of the Moroccan touts, two ladies selling bits and pieces. We bought four necklaces and two miniature slippers, they cost two Euros and a pack of biscuits. We did have 140 Dirhams left, but we decided to send that to the Church in Asilah that we visited when we were there. We have the ladies address who gave us the little tour around.

I think the two ladies here are in competition, they didn't seem to speak to each other at all. The kiosk finally opened to check our tickets. Not really busy at all. Down to the waiting area, just one car in front of us.  We weren't long before boarding.

On time we left Africa, Ceuta and Morocco behind us. Standing and watching the coast slipping into the haze, the anticipation of arriving in Africa seemed a long way away. Expectations and ideas attained from reading, all now replaced by our own impressions and memories. What a wonderful memorable adventure.

Minimal fuss at Algeciras, the trucks seemed to have all the attention. Illegal immigrants I would suspect. One search dog showing little interest in the truck in front of us, it wandered off. Sat nav set for Lidl car park for over night. No other motor homes there when we arrived. A shop at Lidl to top up necessities. McDonalds for tea, they still had the special off er 4 for U on. Four items for 3.90 Euros. Not a bad deal. Wi fi on,  mail and news picked up.

When we were last here there was a guy with a bike and trailer, he seemed to be an alcoholic. He was there again sat outside of  Lidl. Later on he was stood up in the same position for more than two hours. He never moved. He obviously has problems. I went to him, he spoke a little English. A Greek guy, he said he was drinking but he was ok. We later decided to see if he wanted something to eat and drink, not alcohol. He wasn't drinking at all, not that we could see. I tried to get him to sit down and have a drink of water and something to eat. I cleared his chair, but he wouldn't sit down. He accepted the biscuits, banana and water, but didn't want the crisp.

He said he lived in a tent on the beach.  I then noticed that he had a box that people had been tossing change into. He went into Lidl later, presumably to spend his collection on some more booze. He later left pushing his bike and trailer. A sad little incident. Lots of people had passed him by, as if he was invisible.

Well we're back in Spain, near McDonalds, so we again have the cars throwing rubbish out of the window. They really are imbecilic morons, pond life with the brains of ameobas. A sad example of a bad Spanish attitude.

Off to bed around ten. Had a read for a while, no alcohol when we free camp.

Thoughts on Morocco

Before coming to Morocco I had read a few blogs and diaries from the internet. There seemed to be a distinct love or hate theme in them. One in particular I remember, must have been travelling with rose colored glasses. One very good one was by Doctor Bob located on  magbaz.com website.

Having now had a reasonable look at Morocco, I can understand why the extreme views are formed. Because it is a country of extremes, absolute extremes.

Let's get one thing clear for anyone wanting to visit Morocco. You do not need a tour group to travel with. I say it again, you do not need a tour group to travel with. Sorry you tour groups. We met one group that had paid out £2,500 each for the privilege.

If you are a very nervous person then maybe there is some merit in a tour group. But why go to Morocco if you are of this disposition. Underneath, you are very adventurous. You really can save yourself a lot of cash planning it yourself. Just do your homework before you go. There will be times when preparation will help you out no end.

If you're touchy about hygiene, be prepared. You will see some sites. We always washed all fruit and vegetables in a sterilizing solution, before even putting it in the fridge. Only drink sealed bottle water, it's available everywhere. Some camp site toilets leave a lot to be desired, but in general, they get the job done.

The people you meet in general are absolutely lovely. They are dirt poor in general, so obviously they see you as a possible handout of cash or goods. The touts and conmen (and let's be truthful some of the people are), are a different thing, so how you deal with them, I leave to yourself. Most take no as an answer, but the persistent and some were really persistent, I treated as I would people in England. Firmly and no nonsense.

It is a difficult dilemma, to visit and observe, but not to be arrogant, selfish and exploitive. Bartering is a difficult idea for us to understand and the Moroccans play it for all it's worth. Join in the fun, it seemed like a game at times. Every deal I did, even some which I thought I had done a superb deal, the sales guys were always smiling. So they must be ok with it.

Positives

A very big country, with enormous skies and distant vistas of hazy mountains of blue, red and pink etc. Incredible scenery and rock formations. Atlas Mountains, Sahara Desert, Sand storms ( certainly an experience I will never forget ) Atlantic waves washing deserted beaches. Cheap, diesel, fruit and vegetables and also some items in Supermarkets. Thousands of happy looking children on bikes going to school, a lovely sight.

Negatives

I can't really think of any major ones. Here I need to drag up and be pedantic I suppose.

Some really bad roads, but not a lot. Most were fine. Some obnoxious young guys in Fez.

Leaving thought. While in Morocco, I had a sense of heightened awareness and perceptions.  I want to go back some day. I don't think it will be long before we do. For a longer stay this time.

Continued at: In Spain on the Road to Spain 2013