Brian and Patricia left England in June 2013
for what became a 105-day motorhome journey. They travelled through
France and Spain to Morocco. Following a 30-day tour of Morocco, they
returned to England, again through Spain and Spain. They give detailed
information on their journey, including co-ordinates, on all the places they
spent a night, specialising in finding informal places to camp.
You can find equally detailed accounts of three
other motorhome journeys they have made in the Fellow
Travellersfeature on this website.
For more information, you can contact the Rudds
at:
Brian and Patricia write:
This is a diary of a 30 day
excursion into Morocco. No tour groups attached or guides etc. Just the three
of us, myself, wife and sister in law. All views, opinions, asides, moans,
comments are all mine.
On the serious side, there is lots
of information here if you want to visit Morocco. All GPS locations are here.
We sailed from Algeciras to Ceuta.Part
1 starts at day 75, because we had been on the road for 74 days previously.
Day 75 Saturday 7th September 2013SOD Temp 74 Deg F
Camping Cabo PinoNear Malaga
Spain( No location taken here )
Rain in the night had us awake
early. I got up to wind down some of the roof "lids". Some thunder
also, but it quietened down after a while. Well Marc, Helena and Lily just timed
it right glorious sun everyday for them.
Pauline just sent a text, problem
with Tricias NEXT account. Had breakfast and then went for a walk to the paper
shop. Not a lot of choice of paper, The Mirror or The Mail. The Mail at least
has words of more than two syllables, even if it is loaded with trivial tittle
tattle, so I bought that. I had a look for a camping shop that Marc had seen
while out on the bike, but I couldn't find it. It must have been further away
from the camp. Two English guys in a car asked me for directions to a house,
they were installing an internet facility. I wasn't much help to them.
Patricia had a good session of
cleaning around the beds while I was out. I had a read of the paper when I
returned, Patricia was still cleaning. Had dinner and set the electric iron up
for Patricia to do some ironing. Meanwhile, I got out the maps and books for
Morocco, to do a little refreshing of places to visit etc.
I got local English Radio tuned in
to provide a little background music. A guy was on playing a selection of
oldies. He talked about Liverpool, Mathew Street and the Cavern, so I assume he
was a Scouser. His presentation sounded like he was reading from a written
script, quite factual information, but not a lot of expression in his voice, rather
monotonic. Well that's my review of the radio for today folks. Patricia had
finally finished ironing, she then did Pasta with Pesto for tea, very tasty
too.
I went for a shower in the camp
showers after tea. Well what I was expecting to be a quiet relaxing shower,
turned out to be the noisiest shower I have ever had. It was absolute bedlam.
There was a child, presumably in the ladies, who was screaming and crying. I
have never heard a child so upset. Not only that, but lots of loud Spanish
voices also. Whether they were aimed at the child, I couldn't say. But the
overall effect was deafening and to be truthful quite disturbing. I can only
assume hopefully, that it was a shower session the little one wasn't too keen
on. On a humorous note, I'm glad they don't live next door to us. But it
sounded rather traumatic for the child, whatever was going on. Patricia then
went and had a nice quiet shower.
Had a read and listen to the
radio, then off to bed. Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. Patricia needs to do some more
cleaning, with my help of course.
Day 76 Sunday 8th September 2013SOD Temp 72 Deg F
Camping Cabo PinoNear Malaga
Spain( No location taken here )
Alarm went off 7 - 00 am.A good nights sleep for me, but Patricia
awake a lot through the night. She said it was quite noisy late last night, I
didn't hear it. Had breakfast and then helped Patricia cleaning the front part
of the van. Also some towels to wash before leaving. The sun is back this
morning, it doesn't go away for long. Lifted the carpets out and went under the
floor for Paulines things, ready for her arriving tonight.
I went down to put the washing in
the dryer. While there I checked what time we had to leave. 12 - 00 pm they
said. I asked for 1 - 00 pm and they said o.k. so we had an extra hour to get
off site. To be truthful, we had both forgot about the leaving time. Anyway,
all packed, toilet done, we were offby
12 - 30 pm.
Went down to Lidl to do a shop.
Parked up in the corner and decided to have some dinner also. I went for a walk
around to see if I could see the camping shop Marc had seen. I found a shop
filled with all sorts of stuff, which I think was the same shop. Went back for
Patricia and we had a rummage round. We ended up buying a small travel iron 800
watts. An oven tray, two small book reading LED lights, a small LED torch, 5
red plastic plates, rubber none slip mat, two batteries, a leather money belt.
It was like Alladins cave.
We had a drink on returning to the
van and basically the afternoon was over. We had no agenda for the day really,
just to get sorted andpick Pauline up
at the airport.
We headed down to the airport
early and parked up in the little space we had used before. Had some tea and
settled down for a read and wait for the flight.
Tricia walked in to arrivals,
again taking Pauline through to departures where we could pick her up. All
sorted, flight on time, we picked up and got away. Headed for Malaga Motor
homes, where we had stayed previously. Not picturesque, but convenient for a
nearby sleepover. Honking the horn, the gate was opened, straight in and hooked
up in the same place we had been before.
I had a beer and bourbon and a
read before settling down. Pauline now back with us for a while.
Day 77 Monday 9th September 2013SOD Temp 74 Deg F
Malaga MotorhomesN 36
42.450W 004 31.442
Up8 - 00 am, I had been awake for a while, dogs barking, two aeroplanes
flying low, the usual stuff.
Well we now need to get back into
our on the road mode. Stashed Paulines things and washed and sterilised the
fruit and salad stuff we bought yesterday. Toilet done, topped up with water, I
paid Antonio 10 Euros. He said he had seen us parked near the Airport
yesterday. He is not a man of many words. Off we went away from Malaga. A7 all
the way to Algeciras. We stopped off at a service station on the way out of
Estepona for dinner. Quite warm again today. The scenery had changed a little
on the road, not quite as tightly built up as areas near Malaga. I was glad to
be away from Malaga to be truthful, not my type of place. Although it was
lovely to see Marc, Helena and Lily.
On the way into Algeciras we
stopped at a ticket agent. I popped in to get a price for the ferry, 252 Euros
he quoted. This gave me a guideline for a price. We moved on to Lidl in
Palmones, where I knew we could park and there was the famous Carlos ticket
agency.
A good place to park, lots of open
space, Mcdonalds across the road with wi fi. After a brew Pauline stopped in
the van and Patricia and I had a walk to find the ticket agency. I had checked
out where it was previously, so it was quite easy to find. Here we got a price
of 260 Euros, Ceuta or Tangier, both the same price. They will do the import
documentation for the van also, so we will pop back in the morning with cash.
There is a hole in the wall across the road, so all sorted for tomorrow.
McDonalds for tea and to use the
wi fi. There was a deal on 4 items for 3.99 Euros, so we had a McD meal.
We spent two hours altogether, the
longest we have been in a McD. Mail sorted, news updated etc, the wonders of wi
fi, we returned to the van for scones and tea. Pauline had made some scones and
brought them out with her, excellent idea.
On the way back to the van we
couldn't help but notice the McDonalds takeaway litter all over the Lidl car
park. We watched as one car ditched all its rubbish out of the window. What a
great mentality they must have. Proud of their country do you think ? I think
they are mindless imbecilic morons. We have litter louts in the UK, but I do
feel it is worse in Spain. Maybe they are Aliens, sent here to destroy the
earth slowly.
Pauline is crocheting some little
angels, she has done 5 today. Patricia knitting, me reading. So we spent the
rest of the evening. Quite a lot of people coming and going around the van. We
are the only motorhome on the Lidl car park tonight.
Day 78 Tuesday 10thSeptember
2013SOD Temp 74 Deg F
Lidl Car ParkPalmonesnear AlgecirasN 36 10.919W 005 26.381
Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. A decent
nights sleep after a noisy start last night. We are parked in quite a busy
area. Patricia didn't sleep to well. Breakfast and then first job is down to
the ticket agency for the ferry tickets.
The agency is quite well known amongst the
motor home fraternity. Carlos, mentioned in lots of blogs about visiting Morocco.
The deal is in cash, so the hole in the wall across the road was the first port
of call. 200 Euros withdrawn. The ATM area stunk like a neglected mens urinal,
it really was bad. It must get used as a urinal for some reason. We parked just
across from the office. The young lady in the office spoke sufficient English
with a heavy Spanish accent to sort things for us. Open tickets to sail when we
want on the highlighted ferries due to the van height and return when we want.
260 Euros, also van docs done for us. A small photo of the lanes for entering
the port is in the information given to us as well. To round off she presented
us with a bottle of sparkling wine and a chocolate cake.
Next job was Lidl. Patricia and
Pauline sorted that out, while I filled in the paperwork for the ferry. We will
target the 13 - 30 pm, Algeciras to Ceuta. All sorted and some dinner, then we
decided to have a ride to Tarifa. On the way we spotted the signage for the
port that was pictured in the info from Carlos.
A short drive around 18miles to
Tarifa. Lots of the useless and brainless wind generators that we are often
told are going to save the planet. What a joke to anyone who understands energy
generation supply and demand. I'll not get onto that subject here. It was very windy.
We circled Tarifa a few times but nowhere to park the van. We ended up on the
outskirts just off the Cadiz road, parking up near the beach and getting blown
around with a really strong wind. There had been some fair or circus in town,
lots of work going on taking everything down. It looked a big affair.Tarifa had some interesting looking old
fortifications around, but we decided to give it a miss and just head back
towards Algeciras and our Lidl home.
We parked away from Lidl and
McDonalds for tea. then moved over when it got quieter around 10 - 00 pm. Six
other vans already parked up. A couple of vans with tables out having a drink.
We weren't long before getting down to sleep. The roads had gone quiet by then.
Day 79 Wednesday 11th September 2013 SOD Temp 76 Deg F
Lidl Car ParkPalmonesnear AlgecirasN 36 10.919W 005 26.381
A quiet nights sleep in good old
Lidl parking facility. Six other vans parked up with us. The morning noise
slowly builds up when the road gets busier. The cleaner is already out clearing
up all the rubbish from our McDonald rubbish makers. It looks cloudy today. A
small German whizz bang has just released its grey water to run over the car
park. Obviously working on trying to get motor home parking stopped. Bloody idiot.
We were the last van away, no
rush. Pauline popped into Lidl for coffee and cornflakes. Dropped off our
rubbish at large bins across the road near the Carrefour supermarket. We had
info for the road into the port, so we slowly slipped in to ensure no wrong
turns. Parked up and asked the police if we were ok where we had stopped. No
problem. He wanted to talk about Scotland and William Wallace, very strange.
Maybe because my beard and hair reminded him of Wallace.
Having a look at the ferry lanes,
which were quiet really, I had expected them to be manic. There was Ballearia,
FRS and Acciona the companies running ferries. We were Ballearia. The gate
opened for loading exactly on time 13 - 30 pm. All vehicles were loaded in
around ten minutes, It's not a big ferry. Away we went on our way to Africa.
Many times I had read blogs and
diaries of Morocco trips and now,here
we were. A beautiful day, very windy on the top deck. I got pictures and some
video of leaving Algeciras and approaching Ceuta. A young guy asked me to take
some pictures while he posed on a sun bed. It takes all sorts.
Docking in Ceuta I had planned to
try and park up for a while, but there was no opportunity, we were out in the
streets in no time. We pulled into a gate for the marina, while I looked at the
fees for parking. Luckily one of the lads who worked there was just starting
work. He phoned through to someone who came out to open the big gates for
easier access, 15 Euros for 24 hours, just the job in a lovely setting also.
Some yachts tied up directly in
front of us, from a sailing school in Gibralter. The police have a base about
40 yards along the marina from our parking spot.
Parked up we set about other jobs.
Me with satnav,no recognition ofMorocco. Patricia to find a post box to send
cards back home. also to see what the band was playing for. A band was marching
through the streets across the other side of the marina.
I tried a small cafe near us for
wi fi, but decided to go to McDonalds to get Garmin web site and buy Morocco software.
What a convoluted system Garmin run. I was so long on the web site, the battery
on the lappy depleted, so I couldn't then risk a download and gave up. Try
again tomorrow. Absolutely like bedlam again in McD. Earplugs next time.
Chicken and pasta with salad for
tea. I went for a walk with Patricia to post cards and have a short walk
around. Ceut,around that area seemed
quite nice. All the prominent buildings are lit up at night.
We watched the yachties as they
got more lubricated and louder. Just what you need for a good nights sleep. An
eventful day so we were ready for bed. The yachties parted on.
Day 80 Thursday 12th September 2013SOD Temp 77 Deg F
CeutaSpanish enclave in
MoroccoOn the marinaN 35 53.430W 005 18.831
Awake before the alarm, 5 - 45 am.
The yacht party went on for some time, yachties enjoying themselves.
We put the alarm on early to have
showers, download the sat nav software and get off into Morocco. Well the best
laid plans etc. Had breakfast and moved the van to the opposite side of the
marina near to the showers. Well the shower went ok, apart from some idiot
ripping the shower door open.I got free
wi fi on the marina, it was about as much use as a chocolate fireguard. I finally
gave up and tried McDonalds, again, Patricia came with me while Pauline stayed
in the van for a catnap. She didn't get much sleep last night. After nearly
five hours of trying, I finally got the Morocco software loaded and running.
What a frustrating and annoying day. So we decided to relax and stay another
night.
I moved the van back and got an
electric socket from a Dutch boat, they are leaving tomorrow. Most sockets are
the big marine type, but this socket fitted our plug. So now hooked up for the
night.
Tricia and Pauline went for a walk
for fruit and veg.I trimmed my beard.
We had Pork, sauteed potatoes and salad for tea. Yachts tying up in front of
us. One with a gang of blokes on it. Oh, oh, not good. We had one lot last
night, mindless bunch of idiots, drinking and shouting until the early hours.
Boys at play, away from home !
Day 81 Friday 13th September 2013SOD Temp 75 Deg F
CeutaN 35 53.430W 005 18.831
Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. Broken
sleep again with theEnglish imbeciles
on a nearby yacht. I have a long standing theory, slowly as per the laws of
Physics becoming a rule. That 90% of the human race go through this world with
blinkers on. This lot are part of the 90%. No consideration for anyone, balling
and shouting and playing loud music in the middle of the night. Disturbing not
only us, but all the other people asleep in their yachts and catamarans. Ah
well, get on with the morning.
Had breakfast and got van sorted
for leaving. The border is only three miles away, noticeable,by a lot more ladies with head scarves along
the way.
Slowly easing through the Spanish
section stopping to ensure we are ok to drive through. The van wouldn't start.
There is a security system over riding the ignition. This would not let it
start. Oh bloody great,just what you
need going through border controls. I got the manual out, inserted my code, it
still wouldn't start. A Spanish policeman strolled over to see what the problem
was. I let him know and he realised immediately what the problem was.
Electronic jamming for potential bombs. He went and switched it off and the van
started. What a relief. Through the Spanish section no problems, English ?Yes ! Just drive through.
The Moroccan border control was
fun, two guys in long shirts ran towards us. Official helpers ?One of them seemed official, with a security
card hung around his neck.The other was
a hanger on, insisting we hire him to go to Tetouan. Anyway, with Pauline
helping and Patricia staying in the van, we made our way through the paperwork,
Police for registering us, then docs for the van, then customs. Then our
official helper asking for 20 Euros for 10 minutes time and Tetouan Teddy still
smiling and insisting we go with him. I gave the official some remaining Euros
around 6 Euros, what I considered fair. Tetouan Teddy got some odd Dirhams for
his smile.
The border was reasonably quiet,
not manic as some seem to indicate. Two other vans behind us. The long shirted
official was a bit in a rush, repeating over and over what he wanted us to do.
But doing it all at my pace and controlling things especially passports and
papers, we got through easy.
Parking up inside Morocco, we had
our first young boy tapping on the window. I went with Patricia to an ATM
across the roadand got 2000 Dirhams.
Back at the van the boy was still hanging around. I tried to communicate a
little but his eyes looked dead and he had a totally defeated look on his face.
A difficult dilemma, do you give or ignore. We will have to learn as we go
along. We gave him a packet of crisp, which he strolled off with.
Our first destination was Assilah.
Setting off over the hills theclouds
were down so it was like driving in fog. We came down past Tangier Med port, a
large brand new facility still being extended. Here we unintentionally picked
up the motorway, which was quite good though. A service station came up, time
for diesel and dinner. Diesel was 8.34 D per litre, our first fill. 74.43
Litres cost 620 D in total, around 48 pounds. Not bad, wish it was that price
in England.
The service station had squat
toilets, a three tap foot washing basin and a small mosque with carpets laid
out. Coming off the motorway onto the N1 along the coast, it was dry, dusty and
had a certain decayed and neglected air about it. We stopped and I popped out
to buy a melon, 12 D, it was like an enormous rugby ball for less than £1.
We called in to look at a beach
stop, to do the toilet, the location is in the Morocco camping book. Again,
wind blown,deserted, rubbish strewn,
air of decay. The toilet doors were tied up, a chair and money bucket nearby,
so someone hangs around there. Pretty dirty and run down, sand piling up
everywhere. Rickety stick sun shelters being blown around in the wind. An ideal
film set building up to some spooky happening. No problem., we turned around
and got back onto the main road south.
Arriving in Asilah around 5 miles
down the road we soon had the attendants vying to pull us in. I wanted to get
near the Medina, so we had two Mohammeds helping us, Mohammed 1 and Mohammed 2,
Mohammed 1 spokereasonable English and
showed me where to empty the toilet. Toilet emptied we parked up, 50 D for the
night, not bad. We now got the salesmen coming around. I gave Mohammed
1thebottle of sparkling wine from the
ticket agency. He slipped it in his pocket, covered it with his shirt to hide
it fromMohammed 2, his mate.. We are
all brothers he told us. Glad he's not mine. It was a goodshow of his character to me.
We had awalk through the Medina and into the streets,
where everyone was selling something. It was a lovely chaotic scene, people
sitting, lying, standing, selling all kinds of things. The Fish was covered
with flies, not appealing. We bought 2kg of tomatoes 8 D, 1 kg of Nectarines 12
D, in a small utterly dirty and chaotic market. The amazing thing was the
closed stalls were just covered up and left, in a town where lots of people
seem to have very little.
My ladies, who decided to be
sensible and keep covered shoulders, enjoyed the unusual experience. They never
felt intimidated and felt that most salesmen took no for an answer. The Medina
had murals painted on some buildings, quite colourful.
When we got back to the vanI went for a stroll while Patricia and
Pauline prepared tea. Stalls selling bowls of either snails or small molluscs,
I couldn't tell. Also selling bowls of what seemed like chickpeas.
Colourfulhorse drawn carriages were
trotting around.
Back at the van we had tea and
decided to sit out, I had a beer and enjoyed the comings and goings ofthe night. This unfortunately was cut short
by a thunder storm, it put a bit of rain down, so we got down for the night. An
intriguing and interesting first day in Morocco. It certainly has a different
vibe than Europe.
Day 82 Saturday September 14th 2013SOD Temp 80 Deg F
AsilahMoroccoN 35 28.024W 006 02.248
A quiet night after the rain,
mister Muezzin called at 5 - 00 am. The "mister " bit is from Lily,
our granddaughter , who named him that in Turkey. Our overnight guardians have
just turned up. They did assure us they were here all night. Maybe they were
incognito.
Had breakfast and then walked out
to the Church of San Bartolome. One of only a few church bells in Morocco is
heard from here. Knocking on the door, a head appeared around the door then
disappeared. Then a nuns head appeared from an upper window. Then a lovely lady
dressed in blue let us in and showed us around. Her name was Macarena. Anice cool quiet church like an oasis of
peace. We also visited the Moorish style small chapel upstairs. They also do
teaching of dressmaking, embroidery, reading and sewing to local Muslim ladies.
Pauline has promised to crochet an angel for Macarena, we got her address. (
The Angel was posted out to Macarena with a donation for the church )
From there we explored a little
more around the Medina. Calling into one shop the lady was sat with her Quran
and had the television on where it was being recited to her. I did ask to look
at her book, but she said no she couldn't let me. We priced up a coat 200 D and
a puzzle box 250 D which plummeted to 150 D. We aren't buying at the moment so
we declined. I also priced some beautiful acrylic paintings 100 D, but again
let it go.
Back at the van, we had dinner and
then got on the road. Mohammed 1, the wine drinker was there as we left, I
wished him well. We actually paid another guy and got a ticket, not Mohammed
2.I presume they are all in it
together.
N1 around Larache and past the
motorway, looking for the P4214 which turns right off the N1 and heads to
Moulay Bousselham. Well the P4214 road didn't appear, maybe someone has sold it
and moved it, but we couldn't find it. So we turned off the first right hand
tarmac road we came across. This turned out to be one of the agricultural roads
through the fields. But it was heading the right way, so it must pick up the
P4214 somewhere. The road had some fair old potholes, but in general was pretty
good state. Lots of workers in the fields, lots of shouts and waves,enthusiastic direction givers when we stopped
to ask are we heading in the right direction. French was understood. The
unplanned route gave another look at Moroccan life. Lots of small shambolic
little communities in the side roads offthis road.
Eventually we did find the P4214, turned left
and headed for MoulayBousselham. The
newly downloaded Garmin sat navsoftware
didn't recognise any of this area, until we got on the P4214 heading for Moulay
Bousselham.
The sat nav coordinates for the
camp sites were also incorrect. We did find the municipal one, where Hassan the
bird trip man accosted us outside it as we turned around. We decided the other
site Flamant Loisir may be better. It had wi fi, which would be useful.
Again the site had an air of
neglect. A green Dutch whizz bang that had been in Asilah and I had spokento the lady travelling in it. They were already
in the site. A Rapido also. 60 D for the van, 15 D each. We also have electric
which to my amazement lit up my three LED's on the test plug, all ok. Hot water
in the ratherdim and dismal looking
showers. Lots of power points around the site. Does it get busy I wondered. A
Range Rover pulled in to set up a tent.
I got off an update e-mail to
family, while Patricia and Pauline prepared tea. The reception where the wi fi
was, was also very sparse and bare. Other rooms, an infirmary, piled up with
rubbish, laundry, locked up. Cafe, sparse but clean looking whenI looked through the window, the door was
closed.
After tea I again walked over for
the wi fi. Here I was watched by an owl that was perched on the upright barrier
bar. Looking down it followed my movement as I walked around it. It then opened
quite big wings and flew off into the night.Was this an African Marsh Owl, quite a distinct sound to it also. I
checked the time, I had changed my watch, but wanted to confirm the correct
time. I was right, back to Brit time.
I had a read up for tomorrow.
Ladies knitting and crocheting. Very dark outside, half moon shining. I had a
beer and a Bourbon. Off to bed early. Morocco is creating a certain atmosphere.
Day 83 Sunday September 15th 2013SOD Temp 76 Deg F
Moulay BousselhamN 34
52.541W 006 16.774
A lovely peaceful night until Mr.
Muezzin at 5 - 00 am. Alarm on for six, cocks crowing in the distance. We
decided to utilise the showers, so I moved the van around and parked near the
showers. The electric hook ups here weren't working, no surprise really. The
shower was hot, no clip to hold the shower head.A big steel door and bar on the cubicle, but
the orientation ofit opening, if you
had an expanded waist there would be no chance of squeezing in. If the door bar
stuck, no chance of getting out also. Ladies shower also no clip for the head.
Grey water and toilet done, we
parked near reception and walked out to have a look down near the little port.
The road outside the camp has been hard laid at some distant time, but it has
now mainly been ripped up and washed away. We walked across a sandy path past
some building workers who were laying foundations, shovelling all the sand and
cement into the concrete mixer, no ready mix trucks here. The path zigzagged
through deep water washed channels in the sand, filled with the usual rubbish.
We passed the other campsite which
is on the lagoon. Just past it the small harbour is through a gate in the
fence. The police have a small station here also. The usual Flamingo boats are
here trying to sell trips on the lagoon. I told one of them, we had Flamingos
in England 20 Kilometres from my house. He was rather surprised. They are in a
bird sanctuary. Small blue boats lied on the beach, men doing little jobs on
fishing tackle etc. All quiet and laid back. I chatted to one guy, he said it
gets very busy in summer, the season is now over.
Back at camp, we paid 105 D for
the camp, then on our way. Onto the motorway to Kenitra to find a Marjane
supermarket. 40 D for the motorway. I pulled over near a police radar trap to
check on the sat nav where we were. A policeman immediately crossed to us to
ask if we had a problem. He gave us considered directions in French, quite
precise, he counted out the roundabouts.
A bit busy in Kenitra, but we
found the Supermarket ok, with another person adding the last direction. A big
place, one or two things different than UK, e.g. rice and dried foods laid out
in tubs, a no, no in the UK supermarkets. I found a SIM card shop and got fixed
up with a Moroccan SIM for texting, 20D for SIM, 50 D for credit, which was
trebled on the offer. The young guy spoke decent English, learned at school.,
545 D for foodshopping. We had dinner
here also. A team of men and women were clearing up rubbish on waste landat the side of the car park. Piles of
blackbags. A never ending job I would
think.
We then set satellite Simon to
find a parking space from our Morocco Camping book. What a road we went along.
We were all amazed at the squalor and shanty towns people were living in. Quite
undescribable really. Driving was interesting to say the least. We hit one
section where there was a chaotic market going on. Driving through, donkeys,
horse and carts, motorbikes, motorbike trucks, people wandering in the road,
children running loose. We also passed through what seemed to be an industrial
section of road, shanty huts where everything you can think of was being made.
Again total chaos reigned.
We were heading for a place on the
Plage Des Nations, a fancy name, but again chaotic. We drove over a sand
section of road to a full stop and had to turn around. We finally came out at a
big sloping car park unsuitable for the van. The Guardian was a German guy,
Pauline chinwagged with him. He was asking for bon bons, he has five children !
I also talked to a security guy who was guarding a big new development on the
coast overlooking the sea. He invited us back to his house, I decided
unfortunately to decline. We needed to relax and I didn't think we would while
visiting a Moroccan house. A pity really, it would have been really
interesting. We paid the Gaurdian 5 D, he wanted 10 D, we had only been there a
few minutes. He seemed happy at that. Back on the N1 we headed back to Kenitra
and again in Kenitra we hit a totally chaotic area, total chaos describes it
well. Finally we found the campsite, again sat nav was off pitch, we had to ask
a few people in backstreets, where you would think there was no chance of a
camp site.
Driving into the camp, it was a
little oasis of peace compared to what was going on outside. A small French van
we had seen at Moulay Bousselham was there, the lady sat playing guitar with a
big book of music notes like mine. Again the site looked faded and neglected.
72 D for the night, we again had 3 LED's on the electric indicator test plug.
All good. But again the sockets looked on their last legs. Pushed to the limit
might be the right description.
Chicken and chips for tea, care of
Marjane. A read and a beer. We all talked about what we had seen today. To see
the decrepitconditions that people live
and survive in was certainly an eye opener. A little boy washing at a tap in
the middle of a sea of mud. Boys bathing in oil drums. Two boys in a small cart
flogging hell out of a little donkey. A little lady bent double. Shambolic,
chaotic, teaming with people. But amazingly we encountered a lot of smiles and
good natured waves and shouts as we weaved through the chaos. Scenes that will
live long in the memory.
Day 84 Monday 16th September 2013SOD Temp 77 Deg F
KenitraComplexe Touristique La
ChenaieN 34 15.412W 006 33.996
A quiet night, Mr Muezzin at 5 -
00 am, also a pitter patter of rain. Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. Writing up the
diary, recalling scenes from yesterday. Had breakfast and a scout around the
camp. Just our van and the older French van, with one old dilapidated caravan
on the camp. The pool area looked clean and tidy, but the pool was empty. I got
some photographs. Some areas where rubbish again had accumulated over a period
of time, with no attempt to clean it up.
Paid 72 D for camping. The sat nav
set, we headed off for the motorway. The only thing was, it was taking us in
the opposite direction. I knew from having visited Marjane Supermarket
yesterday, we were driving the opposite way to all the signs. I turned around
and we found it as I thought.
20 D for the first section which
ends near Rabat. This then becomes a busy two lane section of road with idiotic
drivers weaving in and out of the lanes. There was chaos at one junction where
there had been an accident, every man for himself, cars and trucks weaving in
every conceivable direction. The police having no affect on the chaos. A lovely
three lane section of motorway after this. The best we have been on, 40 D for
this. We stopped at a service area for dinner, a reasonably tidy and neat
place. Restaurant, shop, toilets, fuel and the usual small mosque. Two Brit
vans rolled past us as we had dinner, no acknowledgement at all. We saw the
green Dutch whizz bang again, had a quick word, they were going the same place
that we were.
Another 10 miles and we dropped
off for Mohammedia. Sat nav again trying totake us past the large sign indicating where the camp was. The road in,
is a little unusual, ending at the beach, where you turn right and drive over
compact sand. Yes there it was, Camping Ocean Bleu.
A quite pleasant atmosphere to the
camp, the sound of the waves in the background. The young guy Mohammed Ali
sorted a place for us with shade and good wifi reception. Our green Dutch whizz
bang rolled in just behind us. The Rapido from Moulay was also on site, he was
just going out on his quad bike as we arrived, a wave of recognition from him.
The two Brit vans who had rolled past us at the motorway stop, were also on
site, I suspected they would be. Chairs and table set up, I checked wifi and
mail, quite good. I also had a word with Mohammed to book a taxi for tomorrow,
400 D to take us into Casablanca and ferry us around for the day.
Having a stroll around the camp, I
chatted with John from the two Brit vans, in an Autotrail. He is from Surrey,
the two vansare travelling together. We
met Johns wife Lorna,later on a walk
along the beach and promenade. They were just strolling also, we had a chat for
a while. I got photos of us with a large concrete mixer, working our way
through Morocco. The area is being developed but slowly, so it takes on a
deserted atmosphere. Just some young guys playing football on the beach. Quite
cooland cloudy which we didn't complain
about. A nice temperature though.
Back at the van, we had chicken
curry and rice very tasty. Brit radio on for a while, I turned it off, it
didn't fit the mood. Again the light plunged around 8 - 00 pm. Some bats flying
around. We made use of the wifi for Utube and whatsapp etc. I have developed a
really runny nose, it's been all yesterday and today, it must be some allergy,
but it's streaming and annoying.
Day 85 Tuesday 17th September 2013SOD Temp 76 Deg F
Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. A while
before I got to sleep last night. But I slept ok after. I didn't hear Mr
Muezzin anyway. My nose is still running. Breakfast and then a shower. One
thing we're learning fast is lower your expectations. The shower worked, but ran
hot and cold. The shower cubicle was covered in black mold all around the lower
walls. A" cleaning " lady was
waiting to go in as I was leaving the shower section.
Pauline was talking to a lady from
one of the Brit vans, who seemed to be having a problem with Morocco.
Complaining that she doesn't want to touch anything, she had big yellow gloves
on. The camp sites weren't adequate and were a health hazard. We've christened
her, Moaning Minnie. The country is different, but she can't adjust to that. Ah
well, we roll on, another person met, all part of the tapestry of travel.
We had a taxi booked for ten o
clock, he turned up around ten fifteen. Rachid in his light blue Mercedes
grande taxi. It was a few years old and a very low geared automatic. Rachid
spoke French, so all of his comments we needed to interpret, a joint excercise
between us. Pauline seems to be doing best at understanding French at the
moment.
Now Rachid seemed a lovely guy but
we have to point out the following observations. Driving in Casablanca with one
hand, talking on the telephone, rummaging in his dashboard then taking out an
extending charging cable, ( which I thought was a small tape measure and he was
going to measure something up ), laughing at every total lunatic thing we saw
on the road.
Now it makes you think. Has he
totally lost the plot ? Or, is he an excellent driver who has adjusted to the
total chaos going on all around. We go for the latter explanation.
The confusion and chaotic
situation on the roads was a site to behold. I just feel that there are a lot
of people with a death wish in Casablanca.
Arriving at the Hassan 2 Mosque,
Rachid dropped us off and parked nearby. The Mosque is incredible, built partly
over the sea. An enormous square in front of it. We got tickets for the tour
just starting at 12 - 00 pm. 120 D each, from a very ignorant and arrogant
mannered guy on the desk. The first Moroccan to leave that impression, also at
a National Iconic building. Plastic bags to put your shoes in. The young lady
doing the English tour was excellent. She was very understanding of Pauline,
being a little slow walking. No problem, she waited to start every description
until we had gathered around her. Even getting down on her knees to listen to
Pauline talking to her. She was quite tall. Moaning Minnie was there also,
moaning about it being warm, we were in the Hammam section at the time.
A quite incredible building that
would take a long description so I won't try.
Rachid was having a nod nearby
waiting for us, he tipped the guardian and away we went. Off to the Medina,
which was smaller than I expected. I had a look at a couple of Moroccan
stringed instruments, which were really only for flogging to gullible tourists.
They looked like they had been cobbled up from old orange boxes, not really
playable. The shop guys were quite keen to sell, even trying to sell me fancy
boxes. I don't know why. Pauline was asked 20 for a small toy giraffe, thinking
he meant D, I fished in my wallet for a note, but he wanted Euros, a bit
pricey, so a no and we left. But he sensed a kill and wouldn't give up. He
started to follow and harass us, so I had to put it in no uncertian terms that
it was no. A look straight into his eyes, a stair and an upright hand, with an
unequivical no thank you. He got the message and skulked off. Good humour from
the other guys we spoke to. There's always one I suppose.
Lots of small alleys and cubby
holes selling similar products. I was asked for 600 D for a cobbled up stringed
instrument.It looked like it had been
made from old bits of driftwood. Really rough made.
From the Medina we headed back.
Casablanca is a big city and to see a lot would take many days. We had a brief
tour around with Rachid, past the Royal Palace. He pointed out interesting
buildings etc.
The outstanding memory is of the
total chaos on the roads, three accidents we passed. Amazingly in the chaos
that was Casablanca, we came across Rachids son, who had his girlfriend on the
back of his scooter. They pulled the scooter over and stopped to meet us. They
were lovely, she had the headscarf on, but cheek kissed Patricia who was on her
side of the car. A really nice gesture from a young couple who had never met us
before.
On the way back we stopped at a
bank in Mohammedia, withdrew 1500 D.
The day had cost us 400 D, I added
another 50 D. Rachid seemed happy with that. It's difficult to assess value in
Dirhams, but we're learning.
Quite tired when we got back, I
think I have a cold coming on. In Morocco, a cold ! Omelette for tea. A local
came around with three Dorada, he wanted 80 D, but unfortunately we had just
sat down to eat and we didn't want to store the fish in the fridge. So no sale.
Shame, on another occasion I would have bought. He then asked us for beer, wine
or whiskey. He was a nice guy, but he then lost a little credibility in my
eyes. Am I wrong ? It's difficult to say. Sorted the toilet in the dark with
the help of Patricia and the LED torch.
Cheese and biscuits for
afters.Got off to bed early. A lovely
moonlit night in Morocco, with sea singing away, as it has for eternity. Lovely
memories being made and stored in my mind.
Day 86Wednesday 18th September
2013SOD Temp 75 Deg F
Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. I slept
well, two Co-codamol did the trick. Hope the sniffles and cold symptoms clear
up. Had breakfast and sorted the van for leaving. The other two Brit vans left
without a word. If we have spent any time chatting with someone, we always say
goodbye and good journey. Maybe we have annoyed them in some way !210 D for two nights then we were off. Just
down the road from the camp we spotted a fruit and vegetable stall, so we
pulled in to buy some. At least we had the intention of buying. We knocked it
on the head, when he wanted to charge what we knew to be double price for
Nectarines, Apples and Pears. Some Moroccans seem to think we come over to dole
out cash as we go along.
Just up the road we were on the A3
motorway to take us around Casablanca. We stopped at an Aire de Repos to make a
coffee, my eyes were feeling really heavy, maybe linked with the runny nose and
chesty cough I have had for two days. There was a lovely laid out garden
alongside where we parked. Taking a stroll in it, the guy tidying up gave us a
red rose. We complimented him on a well maintained little garden. Again a
lovely little gesture from a complete stranger.
Tolls of 43 D in total before we decided to
drop off onto the N1. Anyone just using the motorway to head South, is
insulated from most of the sites and scenes of the poverty in Morocco. It's
like travelling in a bubble. Immediately we dropped onto the N1 at Lbir Jdid we
saw shanties and people scratching a living in all sorts of ways. There was
quite a lot of older school children around in the town itself.
Rolling into El Jadida, you drive
along a beautiful front, with the beach and white waves washing in. The
satellite location for the site was again slightly wrong, meaning a search
around for it. A policeman pointed the way towards the camp. But even when we
got near, the local older well uniformed children didn't know where it was. It
was actually 40 yards away down a street from our parking spot.
All the sat nav coordinates seem
to be slightly off. Moaning Minnie wasn't there, we expected her to be. Maybe
they have gone home. The Dutch whizz bang rolled in just after us and parked
opposite us. We had a late dinner and then around 4 - 00 pm walked into El
Jadida along the lovely open front. Just before leaving the camp we were
shouted over to look at a large Lobster a local was selling. 250 D per kg, he
reckoned it was 3 kg. A bit too pricey for us I'm afraid. We arranged for six
Dorado, he would cook at 7 - 00 pm when we returned. 150 D we agreed. I later
found I could buy 4 Dorado for 30 D, well we live and learn. He was gutting and
cooking also so worth a try.
Lots of young guys on the beach
playing football, nice footwork in bare feet from many. Not too many ladies,
but there was a few bikinis around. We walked down to the Portuguese old town.
It was really dilapidated but had lots of character and sharp salesmen. One was
playing an Oud, he let me have a play. It has no frets and the scale is
different from western scales. He told me it had cost 5000 D. It was a decent
quality made instrument, a lot different than the tat that I had been shown in
Casablanca.He was trying to sell
leather slippers to Patricia and Pauline, but the slippers were too narrow.
Further down the street we had a
really aggressive guy, who succeeded in selling blocks of perfume material 200
D and 2 plates for 100 D to Pauline. Who, if not watched closely, will become
the Moroccan salesmans dream. He had some lovely Berber and Tuareg jewelry, but
we will see that as we move South. I eventually walked off because he was
taking all of our limited time and he still insisted in following me down the
street calling my name. My hackles were up by then, so there was no way he was
selling anything else. My ladies will learn the hard way I suppose. He was
quite a big guy also, decent English and a slick sales patter. But I disliked
him from first opening his mouth.
That apart, the area was really
old and full of character, worth a walk around. But don't let guys like that
take your time.
We crossed the main road into a
shambolic market selling everything. One stall with boiled goats heads. We
bought some fruit at sensible prices this time. Bananas 18 D Kg, Apples 15 D
per Kg , Nectarines 13 D per Kg. An older guy who spoke English helping the
young guy on the stall with interpretation. The older guy had spent some time
in York he said.
We didn't have much time left to
be back for our fish cook at 7 - 00 pm, so I hailed a petit taxi, 20 D to take
us back to camp, straight to the entrance. 5 minutes journey roughly.
The fish cook brought the cooked
fish wrapped, with a sauce in a bag, along with two small loaves. There was no
way I would have the sauce and loaves, having seen his van, which looked like a
travelling biohazard area. The fish were deep fried, so I felt ok with them.
The Dorado is quite tasty, lots of bones and not an awful lot of meat to be
truthful. Well at least we tried them, two each, but I don't think we will try
them again. 150 D for the experience.
We had some rice and salad after,
the fish would have been cold while we prepared the rest of the meal, so we ate
the fish alone. We had a little problem with our boiling water, it was all
discoloured and tainted, we had picked it up on our last fill at Mohammedia, so
I dumped it all.
A Moroccan couple in a tent
nearby, asked for some hot water to make drink, we filled their flask and then
topped it later for them. I spoke to the lady from the Dutch whizz bang, her
name is Yvonne, his name is Cook.They are married but have different names.
This is her second marriage she said. They sold a business in Holland and now
are lucky enough to travel. He never seems to speak at all, she is very bubbly
and sociable. I liked her, a lovely lady.
A lovely full moon tonight, again
darkness seemed to drop quickly. We finished our meal inside the van.
Day 87 Thursday 19th September 2013SOD Temp 72 Deg F
El JadidaCamping and
Caravanning InternationalN 33
14.493W 008 29.205
Ah well, one good nights sleep
gets washed away by a tragic night. All the dogs in the world must have held a
barking convention in El Jadida. They give up and then the cock starts crowing.
Mr Muezzin finished the night off just before the alarm at 6 - 00 am.
We are off to Safi today, so
breakfast and get sorted for off. With parking under trees everything is
covered in small hair like strands and small nut shells.90.2 D for camp fees, the lady explaining
there was a 10% tax in that. Patricia and Pauline paid, while I topped up some
water. While topping up the water I got chatting to Cook from the Dutch whizz
bang. To be fair, he hasn't spoken much so far, as I said Yvonne was very
sociable and bubbly, but he was fine, just a little quiet I suppose, he lets
Yvonne do all the talking, she is quite a lot younger than him.
Easy finding the N1 so we were
straight on and travelling. The road is excellent in some areas and diabolical
in other areas. We ran into some road maintenance going on. Quite a lot of
trucks on the road, it is a main road north and south in this area. The traffic
was held up at the other side as we got through, an ambulance was parked with
the driver getting shouted at by some guy, who seemed very annoyed. The
landscape is quite flat with large fields. The passing fields showed signs of
lots of agriculture being done. Although most now were empty but ploughed up.
Lots of the usual rubbish and plastic bags everywhere. The locals just seem to
be totally oblivious of it. We called in at a roadside stall to pickup 1.5 kg
of Figs, 11 D, 1 kg of tomatoes, 5D. The stall had pigeons and chickens in
cages, I presume they werefor sale. We also tried the spiny apple like fruit
that grows on the top of the local cactus. Rather tasteless to me, full of
seeds like a pomegranate.
We stopped around 30 miles from
Safi for dinner. It was getting a little warmer by this time and the sun was
breaking out. It had been quite overcast all morning. A small cafe that did
tagines near us, the pots piled up outside. Men were sat in chatting. Patricia
sprayed my eyes with optical spray, they had been heavy and quite sore due to
not sleeping last night. Lots of children with school satchels as we passed.
Always smiling and waving. Motor homes must be very noticeable to them. Even
mums waving along with the children.
The sat nav again was a little out
in location. But luckily we saw the camp and pulled in. The checkered flag on
the sat nav was further along the road. Yvonne and Cook our Dutch fellow
traveller's were on site when we arrived. We thought the site was closed, but a
little old guy came out to guide us into the bit that was open. We parked alongside
Yvonne and Cook.
Peacock and hens on site, we fed
them, bread, cake and cereal. Walking around the site, there is a pool, empty
at the moment, a small pool also. Just near the pool is a parking area that
overlooks the town and sea shore, a lovely view. But we can't park there. The
old guy says there is some stone throwing over the camp wall. I suspect they
tell us that, so that it is easier for them to keep us coralled in one area.
We also met and chatted with
Christopher and Veronica, a Polish couple from Hampshire in England. They had
been at Ocean Bleu camp at Mohammedia but we hadn't crossed paths there. They
are on a trip around Africa. They have a four wheel drive with a tent on the
top for sleeping. The safari type vehicle, a ladder up to the top for bed. A
very nice couple who spoke excellent English, they had been running a car wash
business. Veronica keeps her diary with pen and paper.
Chicken stir fry, noodles and
spring rolls for tea. Excellent. Wi fi on camp, but no password for it. I asked
Veronica if she had it, but no. They had been told there was no wi fi.
We have a beautiful full moon
again. The lights of Safi shining through the trees and along the beach. The
local Muezzin must have been auditioning for a new one. We seemed to have a series
of different voices calling for a while. Some not very tuneful, but one guy
quite mellow and if quieter, could have lulled me to sleep. Being bog eyed I
was ready for an early night. Two pages of reading that was my lot.
Day 88Friday 20th September 2013SOD Temp 70 Deg F
SafiCamping International de
SafiN 32 19.031W 009 14.245
Awake with Mr Muezzin, the most
raucous, tuneless one I have ever heard. The speakers around town also seem to
transmit the ongoing prayers, it is still going on as I write the diary.
When I got out of the van, one of
my flip flops had gone, nowhere to be seen. A Moroccan guy who was camping near
us, told me one of the guardians had seen a peacock going off with it. A good
guardian obviously, sat and watched and didn't move. Our Moroccan friend asked
the guardian to get it for me, it was only around 20 yards away near the
offices.
After breakfast we had a chat with
Yvonne for a while, they are heading to a different camp this time. All the van
sorted, we started walking to town, a taxi soon came, 10 D to the Medina. No
working seat belt, so I braced myself against the dash board with my arms.
Weird travelling in a car with no seatbelt on. Pottery was being laid out on
the floor as we got out of the taxi. The Medina was not fully opened, quite a
few places were still locked up. A little guy tried to ingratiate himself upon
us, muttering on about the earthquake in Agadir. I had to tell him to go away,
we didn't want him following us. He got the message. The Portuguese Cathedral
was locked when we found it. Near here, some young girls found us amusing and
were calling out and laughing. Not a clue what they were saying, so totally
inconsequential. We ignored and they got bored.
There are some really old streets
just away from the shopping streets. We were in one where a guy was selling
from a hole in the wall, maybe his door. I asked could I take a photograph, no
problem. He asked me to send him a copy, I got his address, which he wrote
quite precise and clear. Another tall guy had attached himself to us and was
trying to act as an interpreter, he did speak some English. I had to again, ask
him not to follow us. He left us alone. The Medina is not very large and easy
to negotiate. The Pottery section seems to be the aim of the hustlers to get
you to visit. Limpet might be a better name than hustler, they just follow you
and cling on.
We came across a sewing section,
where there are small cubby holes each with a guy doing something by hand or
machine. We bumped into Yvonne and Cook here, they had just been around the
pottery making section tour.
Here we decided to get a taxi
back, we had a ninety mile drive to Essaouira to do. Again theer was no belt at
all in the taxi. 7 D this time, he said that was enough, we gave him 10D.
I had to chase around to get the
camp owner for paying him. I get the strong impression that he doesn't like
work. The old guy who works on the camp said he was probably still in bed, this
was around 11 - 30 am. 115 D paid we then set off, heading for the coastal
road, we passed the Sardine processing factories, these stretch for a couple of
miles along the coast road. The smell indicated what was going on.
Leaving all the factories behind
we got onto the R301, which basically follows the coast to Essaouira. Some
sections lovely and smooth, some sections diabolical. A quite rocky and stony
terrain. Lots of really quiet beaches, remote from anywhere. No large
towns.One or two small villages we
passed through. We passed one section of the Ocean that was quite red, further
on down the road we discovered why. A river running into it was carrying red
silt, it looked like a river of blood, quite unusual to see. The last red river
I saw, was back in Wigan in the UK. A local dye works used to dump die batches
in the River Douglas that flows through Wigan. Green, Yellow, Red, we had quite
a colourful river, all cleaned up now and the dye works is now flattened and
built on. The water storage and sluices etc. are now utilised as part of the
private housing estate.
We stopped for some dinner just
across from a small walled enclosure and house. A young girl came to assess us,
she crossed the road, walked around the van and then stood in the doorway
watching us.
Just short of Essaouira we stopped
to set the sat nav and to have a walk to wake up a little. It was quite a
tiring road to drive. There was a cemetery just behind the nearby bushes so we
moved on quickly.
Essaouira greeted us with strong
winds, just one little detour, then we found the camp.The busiest we have been
on so far. The wind blowing sand across the camp, the trees lashing around.
Quite a tumultuous scene as we rolled in. One van who had arrived just before
us, had parked blocking the entrance. They didn't have the brain to drive in
and then check in. A red and white bar rested across the gate and was propped
on the gate across from it. Hard standing and stony sandy areas were available
in the camp. We parked under the trees, the electric cable has to stretch
across a roadway to plug in.
Pasta for tea. A few more vans are
coming in. Three range rover types rolled in. I thought it may have been Chris
and Veronica, but no. No Muezzin to be heard at all and it's Friday. The lady
in the nearby van pegged washing out in the wind, with sand whipping around,
should be lovely, dry and gritty by morning.
Day 89Saturday 21st
September2013SOD Temp 74 Deg F
Alarm on for 7 - 00 am.A really quiet night and no Muezzin to be
heard this morning, just the cooing of local doves. There seems to be quite a
lot of them. I've just been across to the toilets, a guy in there shaving. Best
thing I ever did growing a beard. Thank you Patricia for persuading me to grow
it.
Pauline has just been to the
shower and came back to tell us, that a painting on the rear of a nearby
Belgian van had cost him 1100 Euros. A bit pricey I feel. He must have too much
money and Rachid in Marrakech, has decided to relieve him of some of it. The
wind has dropped overnight.
Egg and toast for breakfast, a
little treat. We actually picked up some bread we could toast the other day.
Patricia and Pauline hand washed the towels, we put a line out to dry. No one
stopping others doing it, so we'll have a go too. They were doing a new dance
called Fly Jig as they washed, just to keep the flies away from their legs.
Just dumped the toilet in the hole
in the ground, a swarm of flies emerged, it must be their breeding place. No
cover, so they can get plenty fresh air and keep them healthy. The dirtiest and
most foul chemical toilet placement I have experienced. Just had a shower,
cold, it felt warm this morning when I checked it. Amazingly a cleaning lady
was washing the toilet floor and using disinfectant, I could smell it. The
toilet bowls are filthy however.
Just checked e-mail. Why does no
one ever bother to reply to e - mails. It seems that way. I seem to send out a
lot more emails than I receive. The law of diminishing returns at work.
We had some dinner and then
started walking into town, not long before a Petit Taxi showed, 10 D to the
Medina.
The Medina is probably the
cleanest we have seen. lots of articles made local from wood. I checked out
several Backgammon boards with the intention of buying one. Superficially they
looked good, but on closer inspection the quality was rather poor. Hinges were
really bad. I suppose my expectations were too high from reading travel
information. I eventually gave up the search. The best quality woodworker I
found didn't do boards, but his work was real quality craftmanship. Too bad.
Lots of similar style paintings,
brightly coloured, they seemed to be acrylics from the colour and texture.
Again I liked the colour on one, but eventually I discovered they were
everywhere, mass production underway. Quite nice and stylish though. I nearly
bought from a nice lady who wanted to sell me three, similar style but all
slightly different.
I got offered 25 Camels for
Pauline and 25 Camels for Patricia. I was sorely tempted, but finally refused.
He said he was from Merzouga and was spending 4 months in Essaouira. Pauline
got a photograph with one of the guys. He then gave her his email address to
mail a copy to him. Technological desert nomads. Lots of good photograph
opportunities, but some ladies are covering their faces when a camera is
around. No problem with that, we always ask anyway.
Walking along the parapets there
are lines of cannons pointing out to sea. A remnant of the Portuguese I
presume. The Atlantic breakers rolling in and crashing against the rocks like
perpetual motion. Quite misty out to sea, the sun shining but giving an
ethereal quality to the light at sea. Local drum buskers were entertaining a
gang of young people, who were dancing around and jumping up and down.
A stage in the square set up for a
band, maybe they play later. Lots of stalls selling fish, they cook it there
and then for you. Flies come free. Overall the feel of Essaouira is quite good,
no major hassle at all. The place is quite popular with coach trips it seems.
All walking around in groups.
Petit Taxi back, 10 D, dropped off
at the camp door. The afternoon had cost us 20 D, we didn't buy a thing. Lots
of nice little memorabilia, but you can't buy everything along the way, or you
need a trailer to put it in.
Stewed steak, peas, sweet corn, potatoes
and chips for tea. I had the chips. The washing was dry so was taken in. I had
a scan through the books and map for future destinations. Marrakech next.
Pauline was particularly tired tonight, so we all got off to bed early. I had a
Bourbon and Coke reading Dr Bob in Morocco, that I had on my Kindle, saved from
magbaz.com the excellent travel web site. He mentioned the same guy crocheting
in Essaouira that Pauline had a chat with to see how he did it, apparently
Pauline says it is called Tunisian Crocheting.
Day 90 Sunday 22nd September 2013SOD Temp 74 Deg F
Alarm on for 6 - 00 am, a quiet
night, although music could be heard in the distance, it went on until the
early hours. Patricia didn't sleep too well. I think it was the band we had
seen set up in the Medina, the sound seemed to drift in and out on the wind. It
was quite loud at times. A very Moroccan style music.
Several cats prowling around the
camp site, so if you'r a cat lover, this is the place for you. A family from
Belgium are sat having breakfast and feeding them, the cats are fighting over
the scraps.
Everything is now packed up and
ready for leaving. We picked up some water and paid, 196 D for two nights.
First job Diesel, 530 D, 9.04 D per litre. I asked him to fill up and the pump
tripped out, but when I checked the diesel gauge it wasn't full. Never mind.
Bank next for some money, Satellite Simon did well, two banks side by side.
2000 D withdrawn.
Next job was to head back near to
the beach so Pauline can photograph the Camels. There is alarge car park near where they are, the
guardians were out to usher us in, but I stayed on the road. We were only there
for a few minutes. That job done we said goodbye to Essaouira.
Onto the R207 heading for
Marrakech, a very good dual carriageway at the start. Argan trees are
predominant along this road and before long we spotted the ubiquitous Moroccan
scene, goats up the Argan tree, right alongside the road. Pulling over to take
some pictures we were suddenly surrounded by the exploiters, looking for
whatever we could give. The oldest guy I gave two beers, the children some
sweets and a few Dirham. We got a quick couple of photographs and then we were
off. I suspect the goats had all been given some help up the tree, around six
goats, some tree branches were tied together to make perching places. Never
mind, a little break for a few minutes.
The road passes through some quite
moonscape terrain, with mud walled compounds dotted out in the fields. Some
walled growing areas that seem well watered. Lots of evidence of recent
flooding, in the fields and on the road. The road is covered with washed sand
in many places, the fields still shiny and sheeny from settled water driven
silt. It must get quite a downpour when it comes. Quite deep water cut channels
in the fields where the water had flown.
We stopped for some dinner at
Chichaoua, where there seemed to be a lot of new building going up on the road
into town, all empty with no windows. Quite warm by now, the temperature slowly
climbing as we moved further inland.
Rolling into Oudaya we had the
usual chaotic market, so we decided to stop and buy some fruit. There had been
stalls along the way, but mainly selling melons, pomegranates and grapes.
Pauline stayed in the van, while Patricia shopped and I paid.1kg Apples, 2 kg Nectarines, 2 kg Grapes, 1kg
Figs, 1kg Plums for an outlay of 90 D. We always take a note book and pen, it
eases communication of the price.
Arriving on the outskirts of Marrakech
we set Satellite Simon for the Marjane, again he did well. We bought some
necessities, also a cooked chicken for tea. Steaming hot now, the heat hit you
like opening an oven door as you walked out of the air conditioned market.
While at the chicken stall there
were three Pakistaniguys speaking
English. I asked them where they were from. A chorus came back of
"England". They thought I was from Geordie land. "No, I'm from
Lancashire owl lad, oop North". The older guy who was dressed in a grey
long shirt with the long squared off beard, spoke with what I thought was a
Birmingham accent, he came from Stoke, the other two from Manchester. We had a
good laugh about accents. He said he hated the Stoke accent. Quite a funny
little interlude.
The shopping done, we headed for
the camp.
The young lady on the camp
reception was speaking very good English. 60 D for taxi into town, 90 D for
taxi back after 7 - 30 pm she informed me.
I tried the wi fi, sat near the
modem, it was hopeless, indicating 64 Mbps the best we had seen in Morocco, I
think someone is joking. Can't even download a web page. Chocolate fireguard
comes to mind. I just got the info that my team Wigan had won 2 - 0 today, that
eased the disappointment of bad wi fi.
Yvonne and Cook our friends from
Holland were there when we arrived. Nice to see them again. Chatted to them
later about Greece and Turkey. Yvonne gave me a handy map for the centre of
Marrakech. She rips the required pages from their travel books to take out with
them, saves carrying the book she said.
Chicken, chips and salad for tea.
I had a couple of beers, it was so warm I needed them. We were all tired with
the heat and travel, so off to bed early. Yvonne and Cook said they are the
same, tired at the end of the day, so off to bed early. Patricia was really
tired not having slept well for a few nights.
Day 91 Monday 23rd September 2013SOD Temp 74 Deg F
CampingLe Relais de
MarrakechN 31 42.653W 007 59.700
Awake 8 - 00 am, no alarm but the
local cock was crowing early and he had another session later. We all slept
well, but we someinconsiderate Spanish,
loud chatting and laughing around 3 - 00 am. It's time I bought a gun. Overcast
this morning. A man has just been around selling transfers of a typical blue
wrapped Moroccan, the image is everywhere. 50 D he wanted, I didn't want one,
because they peel off quite easy.
After breakfast I popped into the
bar with my telephone, to see if the wi fi was any better than previously. It
was and it was reasonably quick. Checked mail, news etc.
Later I set up the laptop, to
download all the images from the cameras. We have thousands of images now. It's
going to be a long job over winter to sort them all out. I downloaded Paulines
also, nearly 600 from her camera alone. Ialso downloaded some video footage, from a small video camera that she
has brought.
I tried the showers and had the
most relaxing shower I have had since leaving England. The camp is the best we
have used on this trip, excepting Cabo Pino near Malaga, back in Spain. A restaurant,
swimming pool, jacuzzi, quite a nice layout of loungers around the pool, the
settees for lounging and hammocks, are all set amongst palm trees, with quite a
lot of green and flowers. It's the most expensive at 150 D per night, for van
and three people with electric. 90 D for van and two people, 35 D for extra
person, 25 D for electric. 150 D equates to £11.54 at 13 D to the pound.
Compared to prices in the UK and Europe, it's very reasonable. You can
understand why lots of French overwinter in Morocco. Eating vegetarian also
seems to be cheap.
Pauline sampled the pool, but is
disappointed that the sun has hidden behind the cloud. For myself and Patricia
it's quite welcome, not being sun worshippers. Pauline says her time is limited
on her trip, so she has to get the sun at every opportunity.
Had a late dinner and then booked
a taxi into Marrakech. 60 D going and 90 D return after 7 - 00 pm. The taxi
takes five, a young French couple had just booked also, so we shared with them,
which brings the price down.
3 - 30 pm, the taxi was waiting.
The young French girl, who was quite petite,sat on her boyfriends knee, so we all got in quite comfortably. No seat
belt, the belt clip was jammed with a coin. I'm not used to having no belt on,
it does feel weird. I braced myself on the dashboard again, as we headed at
breakneck speed into the chaos of Marrakech. Not as many donkeys and horse
drawn vehicles, but lots of suicidal small motorbike riders. They really must
look forward to meeting their god.
The taxi dropped us off just down
from the Mosque on Avenue Mohammed V, which is a wide road with breakneck
traffic going both ways. To cross it would be taking your life in your hands.
Luckily we were on the right side to walk up to Djemaa El Fna and the Medina area.
We still had two roads to cross
which we negotiated ok. The Mosque is on the other side of the road, we got
some pictures but decided not to cross over, we had been Mosqued out in
Casablanca.
Lots of horse drawn carriages
lined up for hire, but trotting around in manic traffic is not my idea of a
relaxing horse drawn ride.
Walking past these, we entered the
world famous and quite iconic Djemaa El Fna, quite busy with people and stalls
selling all kinds of wares. There are lots of Orange juice sellers. We walked
across to the Medina area to search out some comfortable shoes for Patricia,
she had decided to put on shoes she hadn't worn for some time and they were
rubbing, after walking around two hundred yards.
So here we go, buying something in
the Medina. We spotted a seller with every coloured shoe you could think of. He
tried to sell a shoe which was completely inappropriate, being too narrow
across the foot, but he kept insisting it will stretch.We finally got the message through to him for
a red pair of open toe slip on sandals, so there was no pressure across the
foot.
Eventually we cracked it, 150 D he wanted. We
then had a little good natured banter back and forth as we settled on a price.
145 D, 140 D, 135 D, he was coming down. So I pulled out a 100 D note, put a 10
D coin with it and kept waving it around, he eventually couldn't resist the
site of the money and shook my hand. Deal done, he was quite happy, a big smile
on his face and a big thank you. When both sides are happy, the deal is usually
ok. The shoes were very comfortable, Patricia wore them all day.
Threading our way up the Medina,
we were bombarded with an assault on the senses. Not in an aggressive way, but
just the sight of the multitude of traders, goods and people. Quite a few trying
to sell their wares, "Come inside, look around, no charge ". We had
come in with the intention of not getting bogged down with timewasters, trying
to sell you something you really don't want or need. This strategy worked quite
well. We could take in the sites and enjoy the experience.
To try and describe the Medina is
difficult, so I will just use a series of words that come to mind from walking
along.
Multi coloured material,
necklaces, bracelets, coats, hats, long shirts, pashminas, slippers of every
colour, multi faceted lamps, spices, daggers, knifes, multi coloured small
tables, mirrors, doors, wood work of all kinds. It really is mind boggling.
In the west, businesses usually
have a ratio of stock held to turnover of stock. I wondered if these guys had
ever even considered that. Their shops are filled from floor to ceiling, with
so many items, it must be difficult for them to know what they do have in
stock. No doubt they are all good salesmen though.
Reaching the end of the main walk
which is roughly central of the Medina, we came onto the Koubba Ba Adiyn, a
remnant of a Mosque, a small ruin in fact, that now seems to be mainly used as
a rubbish depository. Apparently it is the oldest building in Marrakech and the
only Almoravid building left in Morocco !
Near here was the Musee de
Marrakech.
Here we came across a lady who
seemed quite stressed out. She had come into the Medina to buy two Pashminas
for her daughter, telling her family she would be thirty minutes, that was
three hours ago she said. She was absolutely lost. I had taken care to watch
our route closely, but even then, there was a little confusion to guide her
back to the square.
I sensed a little mischief from
some of the guys who were pointing the way to her, Patricia and Pauline were
also taking note of these guys.So I had
to say, you either believe me, or believe them. They followed me and we emerged
into the square. The lady, Annie from Poole, was quite relieved, she could now
make her way to her hotel.
We decided to do a little people
watching, so went and had three mint teas in the Cafe de France. We sat for a
while and watched the world go buy. An experience to be savoured. There were
quite a few harassed looking people walking around, all looking quite confused.
A teaming maelstrom of people, with more European looking people than we had
encountered so far.
I decided to have a look for a
small ornate box, for storing small items in the van. Back into the Medina we
went. We weren't carrying lots of money, from reading horror stories of thiefs,
bag snatchers and pickpockets, so I was limited in what I could pay. So I
couldn't get a suitable box. I didn't want to waste their time.
The light was now falling and the
square was livening up even more. The food sellers were in place, smoke
drifting everywhere, drums pounding out, performers, dancers, snake charmers,
story tellers
The local guys are quite skilled in coralling
people into their circle, to perform and then get their payment. The food
sellers have every technique under the sun. They all have smatterings of
television English. The best way to keep them at bay, was to say, I've just
eaten.
I got called Ali Baba several
times because of my beard. We had decided not to eat, being wary of becoming
ill and having to travel. Some would say an experience missed, but I don't
believe in regretting at leisure. I have returned seriously ill from France,
Portugal and Turkey, all because of eating out, it's not much fun. So I'll give
the experience a miss.
The taxi was arranged for 9 - 00 pm,
he was waiting for us. The young French couple were also there. A breakneck
ride in the dark back to camp, we paid 90 D plus 10 D as our part of the fair.
Well worth the tip.
A couple of beers, cheese and
biscuits over a chat to round the day off. A quite excellent day.
Day 92 Tuesday 24th September 2013SOD Temp 74 Deg F
CampingLe Relais de
MarrakechN 31 42.653W 007 59.700
Awake at 8 - 20 am. I've been
awake several times during the night with a rumbling tummy. The sky is overcast
again, which is keeping it cool and is quite welcome. Today is a do nothing
day, just rest and recreation. The sun broke through the cloud later, but it
wasn't too hot. Patricia didn't sleep too well also. She is on a go slow day.
No problem, she did have a little sleep, just before dinner, reading her book
she dozed off.
Pauline sampled the pool and the
loungers that are scattered around near the pool. Our Carl phoned and we had a
long chat, good to hear his voice.
Wi fi was down again in the
morning, maybe it's a regular feature of Wi fi in Morocco. There doesn't seem
to be much consistency in the supply. It did come back later in the day.
Rambling around the site, I got
some photographs. The site is like a little Oasis in a wasteland. Walking
outside the gate it is a pretty bleak area.
Patricia and Pauline both sampled
the Jacuzzi in the afternoon. Problem is, there is a switch that needs to be
turned on every minute. If your in the Jacuzzi, you have to keep climbing out
every minute to turn the pump on. Not a very relaxing Jacuzzi I feel. I
switched it a few times, but standing in the sun switching isn't my idea of a
fun afternoon.
Checked mail and news later when
Wi fi came on. Had Chicken Fajitas for tea, very tasty. A fleet of big vehicles
rolled in and parked near us. They looked like an invading army. In fact they
looked like vehicles from Star Wars. Enormous tyres and standing really high
off the ground. A ladder job to climb into them. They looked a lot over the top
to me, as the saying goes. In fact they looked quite ridiculous in the
environment they are in. They wouldn't have been out of place on an enormous
excavation project, where they have the enormous diggers and dumpers to remove
earth. Patricia feels they are a mid life crisis crowd, playing at being
Indiana Jones.One vehicle is along side
of us, it absolutely dwarfs us.
I popped into the restaurant to get the
football scores, my team were losing 3 - 0 against Manchester City in the
Carling Cup match. Had a beer later. Then off to bed. A quite relaxing and
quiet day.
Day 93 Wednesday 25th September 2013SOD Temp 72 Deg F
CampingLe Relais de
MarrakechN 31 42.653W 007 59.700
Awake at 6 - 00 am with the alarm,
I think I heard the Muezzin just before the alarm, he was quiet though for a change.
Had breakfast and then got sorted to be on our way.
The guitar playing French lady we
met in Kenitra is on site with her husband, they livenear La Rochelle in France.
I had a chat with Sam from Chorley
near Wigan, our home town. He came on camp saying we are the first people he
has seen from home. I found this quite funny, because he is an Iraqi guy. He
has now settled in Chorley.His wifes
name is Samir, ( I think the spelling is correct ). I'd had a couple of chats
with him. They were going for a walk, he stopped to say goodbye. He is hoping
to set up some kind of business in Morocco.
When leaving camp we had a little
confusion over a receipt for payment. Handing the receipt to the gate man he
kept it. We needed a receipt as proof of payment, so we had to chase around for
another one. Eventually it was all sorted, then off we went to the local
Marjane supermarket in Marrakesh. One or two items we needed to pick up. We
then filled up with diesel at the station across the car park.
While leaving the petrol station,
we witnessed the police wrestling with a man, who was quite violent. They soon
had him down and cuffed up, no messing.
Off onto the N8, then N9 heading
for the Tiz n Tichka pass over the Atlas Mountains. We have talked to a few
motor homers who are afraid of crossing the Atlas Mountains. Wary of the climb
and the road conditions etc.
We decided to have an early dinner
before hitting the main climb over the mountains. Pulling in at a rock and
fossil shop, it had a nice flat area to park. I had a look at his wares, while
Patricia and Pauline prepared dinner. Quite a wide selection of rocks and
fossils. The guy said he had collected them himself, only four kilometres away
from his shop. Pauline wanted to buy something for Sarah Jane her daughter, so
after dinner we had another look. We ended up with a split rock of Azurite. He
wanted 250 D for it. We finally agreed on 50 D and three cans of beer. He said
he didn't drink, being a Muslim. Maybe they were for his friends. But the're
Muslim too. Ah well, someone will drink them. He was quite happy with the sale.
The Tiz n Tichka winds its way up
to 7,250 feet above sea level. No really steep sections just a long and gradual
climb. The road is two lanes and quite well surfaced all the way, just a little
caution needed when a truck or bus is coming the other way. It'san intriguing climb, through incredible
landscapes, passing villages clinging to the hillsides. The river plunging down
rapids in the valley alongside us. The houses are the same colour as the
surrounding soils. Red Ochre, Grey, Greeny Grey, Brown, the colours change as
you move through the terrain, quite a site to see.
Stopping in one small community to
look at some fruit, a little boy approached, we are like magnets to children.
The juxstaposition of ourselves and the environment we were in, is difficult to
explain, justify or comprehend, if you think about it for a while. I hesitate
to call these children beggars, I assume they have been taught to see us as
potential targets for any kind of benefit. We gave him some sweets. Many
children along the way were waving to us. At one place three young boys stood
across the road to try and stop us. The only stupid thing we saw really.
Lots of guys waving red stained,
false looking rocks at us. Anyone who falls for the obvious con trick attached
to these stained rocks, shouldn't be there in the first place.
We got lots of pictures and video
footage of the final part of the climb up the switchbacks. For anyone who
doesn't want to cross the Atlas Mountains. You are missing a treat.
Arriving at the summit, where
there is parking, there are the rock and fossil shops again. It really is an
industry around there. I was hounded by one guy.So I had to put him in his place, he
eventually got the message. A group of Portuguese four by fours rolled in and
stopped. They then got the treatment. I had to smile when one of the Moroccan
guys came chasing across the car park holding a big mirror, trying to sell it
to a lady, who obviously didn't want it. They really do try to make a sale at
every opportunity.
We had a brew watching all this
going on. All refreshed we then set off down the mountains. The last 25 miles
of road to Ouarzazate was a really good surface.The sat nav got the camp location spot on.
Ouarzazate seems quite an open town driving through. But we were all ready for
getting in camp and settling down. Quite an exhilarating but tiring drive, the
temperature had been rising through the day also. We had a cobbled up tea, it
was too warm for the meal we had planned. We were all ready for bed, we decided
to have a really early night. I had a read for a while to dissipate the images
of the day. This is really what motor homing is about. An excellent day.
Day 94 Thursday 26th September 2013SOD Temp 68 Deg F
Camping MunicipalOuarzazateN 30 55.374W 00653.183
We were awakened with the dogs
dawn chorus, which seems to be a feature of Morocco. Then we had the most awful
Muezzin call to prayer I have ever heard. It sounded like several sirens all
set at different pitches. It wouldn't have gone amiss as an air raid warning
system. Thank god we got off to bed early to get a few hours sleep. I can't
recall Turkey being so disruptive of sleep, although we had a few dog
incidents.
Feeling a little low key this
morning, tummy feeling off. We've not eaten out, so maybe it's the change of
water or something.
A young couple from Leeds were
camped near us. Gavin and Jenny, in their land rover Ruby. They were doing
Morocco in one month, after driving through France and Spain. Quite a run in
one month. I didn't chat too long, still feeling off key. They had the Morocco
camping book and were heading for the Marrakech camp we had recommended.
The camp paid for, 78 D, we were
on our way again heading for Tinerhir. This meant crossing the Vallee du Dades
on the N10. Leaving Ouarzazate the road passes the lake created by a dam, you
can see it across the stony terrain. Skoura, El Lelaa M'Gouna, Boumaine Dades
are the main places along this road. I did expect a long tiring drive, but was
pleasantly surprised, that there were some excellent sections of road, really
smooth and whisper quiet enabling cruising at an easy 60 mph. Although some
sections again were really rough.
It is quite a flat valley. The terrain mainly like
a Martian landscape, with occasional green areas which are obviously irrigated.
Lots of Kasbahs old and new. Noticeably the men seemed to be in Western dress,
jeans, tshirts and shirts. The women as usual in traditional long robes and
scarves.
Now reading in the books we buy
about places to visit, they always seem to wax lyrically about places. Vallee
du Dades is another. It's a pleasant drive, with the smooth sections of road.
The distant hills and mountains of various colours. The Kasbahs made of mud
brick seem to be part of the landscape, being the same colour. But I wouldn't
get too excited about crossing it again. Maybe I expect too much.
We stopped in Boumaine Dades to
pick up some fruit, but the fruit wasn't very nice. While here I chatted to a guy
from Belgium, he was sat there like a local, smoking. He got out his identity
card to show me. Not sure what he was doing there. A pick up truck pulled in
front of the van and proceeded to unload a pile of firewood. No decent fruit,
so we headed on.
Anyway arriving at Tinerhir, the
place was a dust bowl. There were road works going on, trucks everywhere. The
roads in the town were the worst we have met anywhere in Morocco. They really
were atrocious. There seemed to be a trench cut across the road every twenty
yards, then partially filled with hardcore, leaving a drop of around four
inches. Crawling through the town, we turned onto the R703 to locate the camp,
this is a one track road.
This is the road leading to the
Gorges du Todra, a main tourist attraction. But the road is tragic. Picking our
way along the road past a Palmerie, we eventually pulled into the sanctuary of
the camp.
A Brit tour team was ensconced in
the camp, ten vans. They had all paid £2,500 for the privilege of being taken
around Morocco. I hope they get their moneys worth. GB privilege run the tours.
I chatted with a few of the guys. There is a mentality of a need for security,
that's why they go for the group thing. Horses for courses I suppose.
A lazy afternoon in camp, chatting
with a few of the guys on the tour. They are leaving tomorrow, I think for
Marrakech. The camp is alongside some sandy stony cliffs, that look ready for
being washed down, there are walls and buildings up there also.
My tummy was slowly improving as
the day progressed. Bacon, egg, sausage, beans, tomatoes and mushrooms for tea.
We had planned it for last night, but were too hot and tired.
The stars were really clear when I
had a stroll later on. A Bourbon and a read to round the night off.
Day 95 Friday 27th September 2013SOD Temp 70 Deg F
TinerhirHotel Camping le
SoleilN 31 32.847W 005 35.425
Awake 7 - 10 am, heard the usual
dogs earlier, but no Muezzin. Patricia heard the Muezzin, he must have been
quiet. The wagon train has just rolled out. Ten vans in procession. Laughably,
we heard a conversation with the Moroccan guide, the tour leader asking him
where they were going and where they were stopping today. He seems a well
prepared leader ! Anyway, the site is really quiet now, just our van on site.
Had breakfast then Patricia and
Pauline sorted some washingto put in
the washing machine, before we pop out to see the Gorges du Todra, around six
kilometres up the road.
We walked down to the camp gate.
There was a young guy with his taxi, his head under the bonnet. I asked him if
he had a problem. No problem. 30 D to take us up to the Gorges. The old
Mercedes taxis they use must do some miles, they take some hammer too, on the
dreadful roads around the towns. The R703 to the Gorges, is a terrible road.
Never mind, he managed to give us another white knuckle ride.
Stopping at the Gorges,
conveniently at one of his mates cafes, they were on to us instantly. Hotel,
drinks, taxi back. Keep smiling and say, no thanks.
The Gorges are worth seeing,
incredible cliffs that form a corridor around the R703, which carries on
through to towns at the other side. An hour is really all the time you need.
Have a walk through, take some pictures, get accosted by all the stall holders.
There were a few climbers risking
their lives on the cliffs. Apparently it is a well known place to go climbing.
I spotted some small circular
metal boxes, with colourful inlaid tops. I thought they would make lovely small
tablet boxes. We looked at a few, but Patricia wasn't too keen on the colour.
So, I walk away, but Patricia and Pauline for some reason always feel sorry for
them and are reluctant to leave them. Listening to the well rehearsed patter,
about their grandad made this, it is close to my heart, it will bring you good
luck, it will give you a healthy life. Salesmans talk, anything to get the
sale.
Anyway, we spotted one stall,
where he had the colour we liked. So I told Patricia and Pauline to carry on
walking and let me buy it. I put 20 D in the little purse we have and a little
change in my pocket. Preparation is the key. I valued them at around 30 D and
that was all I was paying. He started at 100 D, which was not bad, we had just
been asked 200 D for a similar sized one. What do you pay ? He said, the usual
line, which I don't usually fall for. I told him I only had 20 D. He blinked
and smiled. I again told him I only have 20 D. I pulled out the purse to show
him. No go. So I fished in my pocket for a 10 D coin, there you are 30 D,
that's the lot. I started walking away, but he pulled me back and put the pot
in my hand. 30 D, deal done. Again he was quite happy. I do wish they would
have prices on items and sell at that price. The whole bartering thing is so
silly, it just undermines any credibility the seller has.
Walking back, we were approached
by a young girl asking for money. A beautiful looking face, with her head scarf
wrapped around and framing her features . We usually ignore all begging, but
when I saw her then go rummaging in a bin close by, I decided to give her some
Dirhams, but I would like a photograph. She had gone down to the river were
some women were washing things in the water. I called her back, asked her could
I take a photograph, she said yes. I gave her the change I had in my pocket.
She rambled off. Her eyes were quite piercing when we looked at the photograph
later. A beautiful young Moroccanlady,
I wonder what life has in store for her ! A little unnerving and soul stirring
for me.
We have this onlooker thing as
visitors, difficult, we can be exploited, we can exploit the people we see, we
also cannot change the world. Travelling through we have to react as we feel. I
hope we got this one right.
Another white knuckle ride back to
camp, he picked up a guy and they had a loud conversation over the noise of the
taxi, banging along over every bump in the road. 30 D again, dropped at the
camp gate. We had enquired about a driver to take us out and back, 300 D. It
cost us 60 D in all.
I set up a printer Pauline had
brought out with her, so we can print off her flight documents. All now sorted,
no problem. We just need Wi fi now to download them.
A Brit van rolled in later on,
from Wiltshire. They had come from Merzouga. We had a chat, but we didn't see
them after that. They seemed a little aloof.
Had a shower later, it started off
warm but ten seconds later it was cold, but what do I expect. We are getting in
Morocco mode good and proper. A relaxing day all in all. Quite windy but warm.
We had booked a meal for 7 - 00
pm, unusual for us, but we thought we would try a Tagine. Lamb Tagine, for two,
chicken brochettes, chips, bread and bottled water, 283 D. Meal was o.k.There was no one else in, we had the
restaurant to ourselves.
Strolling back we admired the
clear stars, the moon had been visible earlier at the Gorges, but wasn't now
visible. Picked up the last of the washing, off the line we had put up.
Had a beer and a chat. Off to bed
early, alarm on in the morning. A Bourbon and read to round the night off.
Day 96 Saturday 28th September 2013SOD Temp 75 Deg F
TinerhirHotel Camping le
SoleilN 31 32.847W 005 35.425
Oh the barking dogs. Every
morning, a phenomenon unexplainable. What the hell kicks them off ? We never
see dogs in the day, where do they all come from. Awake long before the alarm
again. It's a feature of this trip I will be glad to hear the last of.
Van all sorted we got on our way,
down the R703 into Tinerhir, it's a drastic road, to get so much use. On to the
N10 to Tinejdad, a good road section. At Tinejdad we switched onto the R702 to
take us down to Erfoud.
Along here we met our first herd
of camels coming across the desert terrain. We were stopped at a junction, for
an off road town, having some dinner. We spotted them far in the distance
approaching through a distant sandstorm. They came right across and stopped at
a small palm tree, which must have been a watering hole.
After dinner further down the road
we hit the sand storm. A quite surreal experience. The sun was shining hazy in
the sky, the road was a moving swirling cloud of sand. The sand formed a moving
carpet across the road, you had to keep your eye on the underlying white line
that seemed to vanish at intervals. Headlights on, we could see other vehicles
approaching us through the haze. Quite a weird experience.
A feature of the drive, was the
number of young people on bikes. They all looked to be going to schools.
Hundreds in each town. We had to thread our way through them. I was pleasantly
surprised that the R702 was such a good road. We stopped at Jorf to pick up
some tomatoes and grapes. The lady in the shop directing us to go inside for
better tomatoes. 20.5 D in total. We also needed some money, but the hole in
the wall rejected the card, so we didn't try it again.
The heat was building slowly as we
gotnearer to Erfoud. Then onto the N13
to Rissany. We emerged from the dust storm as we approached Rissany.
Entering Rissany, a very tidy
looking town on entering, we were flagged down by two guys. One in his full
Berber outfit. I was happy to stop and ask for a bank. One hopped onto his
bike, the Berber said, "my friend will take you follow him". The
first bank had no money, so he led us to two more, which were near to each
other. All the while he was trying to persuade us to come back in the morning
for the market. They also had some business which I couldn't understand from
his business card. They were very helpful, friendly and not aggressive at all.
We got 2000 D from the bank. Had a chat with them for a while. But we couldn't
promise to be back tomorrow.
After Rissany we were getting into
the desert areas.
The N13 carries on through Rissany
down to Merzouga. Here we hit a full blown sandstorm. The wind absolutely
lashing the sand across the road. The road was good but constantly disappearing
under the sand. Arriving at Merzouga, we missed a turn in the now absolutely
opaque visibility. We again got flagged down, this time by guys out in the
sandstorm trying to point us into
camps. Two young European guys, speaking English, pointed out that the road
ahead wasn't fit for a motor home. What I could see also convinced me, we had
missed a turn.
Just then a fleet of four wheel
drives came in by a side road, heading back to where we had just come from.
Turning around and minding not to run over my persistent tout, we headed back
through Merzouga and found the missed turn off.
We soon picked up where we were
headed, signs for the auberge looming out of the haze. Arriving in proximity to
the auberge, I had to get out of the van and walk in, to assess where I could
drive the van.
My Shamal around my head and Tour
de France snood around my mouth, sun glasses over my eyes, I stepped out of the
van. The sand whipping around my legs and stinging like a thousand small
needles. I negotiated my way to the Auberge, found the entrance and located the
main guy. He indicated where to park, which gave us shelter from the wind.
Bringing the van in, it was good to get out of the main onslaught of the sand
and wind, into the quite sheltered side of the auberge. An experience that will
live long in the memory.
I passed the electric cable
through a small window for him to plug us in. 50 D quoted for the night with
electric. Not bad at all.
I had the usual sales pitch, 4x4
drive, camels, tagine etc. But his menu didn't appeal. Turkey tagine he said.
We watched a tourist party mount
their camels and go into the desert for the night. 94 Deg F in van, so we
didn't cook, just had a snack. Dust everywhere. I had a couple of beers that
went down a treat. The wind was slowly settling down. We again got off to bed
early with the alarm on for 6 - 00 am.
Day 97 Sunday 29th September 2013SOD Temp 78 Deg F
MerzougaAuberge Camping le
TraditionalN 31 04.893W 004 00.421
Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. Still
dark. A quick cuppa and then out into the dunes for the sunrise. Patricia was a
little overwhelmed with the heat, wind and dust when we arrived yesterday, but
she is overwhelmed by the beauty of the desert dawn this morning. It really is
worth getting up for. The large dune, Erg Chebbi is right near the van, just
over some small dunes. But it would take incredible climbing skills to top it.
The sun rises just to the left of it. We had a lovely hour taking photographs.
Arriving back at the van, the
camel train we saw leaving last night, was arriving back. All the camels strolled
past the van door to be watered and fed. I got some photographs and video of
them.
Breakfast and then, into the
hectic schedule of doing nothing in particular. A relaxation day today.
I had a stroll around taking some
photographs. Walking past a house near us, I came across two ladies washing,
with all the clothes hung out to dry. One had a pile of folded up washing on
her head. She wouldn't let me take a photograph when I asked.
The heat slowly building through
the day, 95 Deg F in the van during the afternoon. We had the fan running
constantly.
The Camel train returned and was
watered and fed near the van. Some camels getting a clout with a plastic pipe
for hogging the food.
I set up the small electric ring
and slow cooker to cook tea outside. Pork, tomatoes, sweetcorn, onions, a
tagine type mix all cooking during the afternoon.
Two young Berber lads came and sat
away from the van, they laid out a few things to sell. They both spoke English,
both 21 years old. We bought a couple of presents from them for 180 D, they
wanted 250 D. A deal was done and they were both happy. They wrote their prices
out in the sand, so did I. We had a chat with them and got some photographs.
They both had jeans on under their robes. They joked, they were Berber Jeans.
Both seemed quite likeable young guys.
I noticed that the dunes had
afternoon shadows on them, so I had a walk out with Pauline to get some more
photographs. Thesand was really hot to
the feet. Kicking the edge of a dune, the sand ran down like water, quite intriguing
watching the pattern develop.It was now
blisteringly hot and we both needed a good long drink when we got back.
In the afternoon the camels all
came plodding in line past the van, to get some more food at the point where
they had saddled up last night. No one with them, they all strolled past in
line.
Two small boys Mohammed and Hassan
kept trotting past during the day, they seem to be related to the auberge
owner, maybe his sons. They got a few sweets from us during the day.
An older lady came out to the
trough where all the camels had watered. She proceeded to wash her face, then
started to hose down a plastic tub, which she then left and walked away from.
She was bundled up in several layers of clothes, the top one being black. It
was absolutely baking hot. Pauline walked over and had a simple conversation
with her. Her shoes were wearing thin she said, so Patricia donated her a pair
of red plastic clogs. Pauline gave her a bra. She was sat in the shade of a mud
brick pile.She popped them in a bag
which was under her clothes. She allowed us to take a photograph.
The afternoon was spent sat in the
shade of the van, watching the comings and goings around us. Which at one point
around 2 - 00 pm came to an absolute standstill. Not a thing moving anywhere,
the heat at a maximum I feel, total silence, just the occasional buzz of an
energetic fly. It's difficult to imagine a silence like it in England.
A quite memorable lazy day, spent
in a quite unique environment, so close to the desert.
We had our tagine with couscous
for tea. A couple of beers to end the day. 92 Deg F in the van, no need for the
hot water bottles tonight.
Day 98 Monday 30th September 2013SOD Temp 80 Deg F
MerzougaAuberge Camping le
TraditionalN 31 04.893W 004 00.421
Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. Again no
dogs, oh what peace. Patricia says she heard the Muezzin, I didn't. He must
have been quiet. I had to get up at 12 - 30 pm to put the roof vents down, the
wind had picked up and was blowing a gale. Well the gale settled down later and
a quiet dawn. A distant quiet Muezzin and no barking dogs this could be a
favourite place.
Pack up this morning, toilet done,
some water loaded. Some last minute photographs. We also collected a little pot
of sand, our own Sahara souvenir. The owner of the Auberge has been walking
past a few times. He has a digger in to remove some of the sand, or the drive
in will become blocked. He really looks an unhappy, troubled man.
N13 away from Merzouga, we are now
beginning the homeward bound leg of the trip. Rissani, Erfoud, where we had
passed through on the way down to Merzouga. We picked up 6x 2 litre bottles of
water in a small town we don't know the name of. Nameless small towns and
villages are a feature of Morocco. Not on the map or sat nav many of them. Ar
Rachidia, where we missed a turn somewhere and ended down a minor road, until
we picked up the N13 in town. We pulled into an Afriqia petrol station for
dinner, not many stopping places on the road. Parked alongside a large diesel
truck we had dinner, very warm at this stage 96 Deg F in the van.
After Ar Rachidia we entered a
quite barren, but spectacular landscape, going through the Gorges du Ziz.
One of the good things about
Morocco is the quite spectacular and at times stunning landscapes we have
passed through. Just before this area we passed a large lake created by a dam.
It actually was quite low on water. There is a tunnel on the map called Tunnel
de Legionnaire, which seemed to be a significant mark on the map. It turned out
to be a hole knocked in a spur of rock, maybe about 20 metres long. The only
tunnel I can remember though.
We passed a minibus loaded inside
with people, the roof was also loaded with boxes, three goats and five guys.
All the guys were waving at us and smiling. Not a recommended way to travel.
One guy with his leg on the ladder at the back, with his other leg straddled
over the retaining bar on the roof. He smiled a lot.
At the Midelt side of the Gorges,
we stopped at a roadside stall to buy some fruit. One of the guys on the stall
had the worst set of teeth I have ever seen in my life. He must have terrible
trouble with them. He offered me a split walnut, but I had a sweet in my mouth,
which I indicated to him. He pointed at his teeth and said something. Maybe,
"you"ll have teeth like mine, sucking sweets ". 1kg of plums,
1kg redApples, 1kg of green apples, 50
D. They gave us some fruit we hadn't seen before, looking like a shrivelled
pear. He said it was for the tagine. The overloaded minibus passed us, all
again shouting and waving at us. A few miles down the road we passed them
again, like old friends they were all waving and smiling as we passed. The
minibus doing a slower steady pace with its load.
The last 40 miles were quite
uneventful, rolling through lots of features that had now become quite familiar
to us. Palmeries, mud enclosures, tumbling down mud houses. One thing we
noticed was that there seemed to be a lot of new paint along the road, walls,
posts, kerbs, guys sweeping and painting kerbs in towns. Maybe something is
scheduled to happen.
Arriving at the Midelt camp, it
looked a nice neat and tidy site, block paved pitches etc. But the toilets were
the most disgusting we had set eyes upon. The actual infrastructure was
excellent, tiled and terrazzo floor. But it looked like someone had shot the
cleaner long ago. Toilet bowls full of excrement, shower bases absolutely
filthy, cobwebs covered with dead flies strung across the toilet cubicles.
The temperature plunged as the sun
set, we are at 4,900 ft here, so it's understandable. I chatted to a French guy
from Cannes. An old hand on travelling in Morocco, Tunisia and Libya. I
borrowed his hose to run off some water from the awkwardly located tap on the
pitch, it was a little difficult to access them. I have a hose but it was
underneath in the bunker storage.
Pasta for tea. I was quite tired
when we arrived, the Pasta picked me up somewhat. A read, a chat and an early
night. A starry night, the coolest we have had for a while. The campsite was
all lit up by then.
Day 99 Tuesday 1st October 2013SOD Temp 64 Deg F
MideltCamping MunicipalN 32 40.674W 004 44.235
Well another dogs chorus to awaken
the day, this is becoming monotonous. I'm sure we have never had so many
mornings where dogs have awakened us. Around 5 - 00 am they kick off. We then
have the Muezzin who joins in for good measure. Midelt has a cacophony of
Muezzins. I would be very interested in seeing how many of the faithful get up
to go to the Mosque at that time of the morning.
The coolest morning for a while
this morning.
Leaving Midelt we got onto the N13
across the Plateau de L'arid. Zeida, Boul dJoul, Ait Oufella, then over Col de
Zad, which topped out at 7,220 ft. Just a little less than the Tiz n Tichka
pass.
We stopped in Timahdite for fruit,
altogether we spent 25D.
While crossing the Col de Zad, we
stopped for some children who were waving from across the fields. They came
running. We only had sweets for them, they did ask for clothes and shoes. We
tried to ask their names, but they didn't understand us at all. No French
understood, so I presume their only language was native Berber or Arabic.
Lovely children again.
We came down off the mountain
through the Forest de Cedres, the biggest forest we had seen. It reminded me of
parts of Belgium.
By contrast to the area where we
had met the mountain children, we rolled into Ifrane, not many miles down the
road. It was like entering a Swiss village, all new white houses with red tiled
steep angled roofs. Newly laid out roads. Trees and green grass. It was an
absolute contrast to anything we had seen in Morocco. I joked, had we passed
through some time warp and landed in the Alps. The answer was forthcoming from
the information book. The king has a Palace there. So he doesn't have to see
anything that might offend his eyes. I wondered if the mountain children knew
or understood anything about Ifrane.
We found a place to park near the
Halte Routiere building near the Petit Taxi ranks. Lots of young people
strolling around, apparently there is a University in Ifrane. Interestingly the
young ladies were all in western clothes, no headscarves were evident.The young lads were as usual in jeans, t
shirts and shirts. Trainers and pumps were popular. We have noticed that the
men adopt modern clothes, while the majority of women still wear traditional
clothes, particularly the head scarve. But we didn't see it here.
From Ifrane the countryside
changed, more green was noticeable and the houses also seemed to be a lot more
affluent.
Apples, Apples, everywhere, miles
and miles of trees and roadside stalls selling them. It did seem quite an
agricultural area. Maybe that's why the housing seems of a higher standard. We
started to see satellite dishes as we approached Fez.
Needing a big shop to stock up we
spotted the Marjane as we entered Fez on the N8. We also attracted a tout,
trying to take us to Camping International. Mounted on his scooter, speaking
decent English. I told him we were going to Marjane, “no problem, I follow
you”, he said. He started to rattle on about Camping International and his
brother who could take us touring around Fez for 250D. I told him we would be
shopping so he needed to wait. "I see you later."
Shopping done, he was still there
when we came out, I presume he had gone and come back. Now one thing a Moroccan
tout doesn't understand about me is that when I say no, I mean no. No amount of
his waffling changes my mind. I told him we were going to Camping International
anyway, so we didn't need him. Also we would be getting a petit taxi into town
and a petit taxi back, as we had done in Marrakech. Slowly the message sank in.
"I give you my telephone number, you call me in the morning, my brother
take you round in his taxi." Yeah, ok. Sat nav set for Camping
International, it was around two miles from Marjane, no problem at all.
Lots of space between trees when
we arrived, the pitches are a little confusing, it just seems to be spaces
amongst the trees. A shower was first thing, not bad at all. In contrast to the
last place.
We had bought a Poulet Roti, so
some chips for me and pasta for the ladies. Tea was very enjoyable.
Chatting and reading for a while.
I tried my Moroccan SIM card again, INWI is the company, it really has been an
absolute waste of my money. I bought it mainly to text and cut down on call
cost of £3 outgoing, £1.25incoming,
with a Three SIM, which is bloody ridiculous. But the service has been tragic,
no incoming texts at all, with minimum incoming calls. No service most of the
time. Chocolate fireguard comes to mind.
I have mentioned before about
being tired at the end of the day, a feature of this trip. I'm sure it's
because of the heat, which started back in France. As usual, all ready for bed.
Day 100 Wednesday 2nd October 2013SOD Temp 74 Deg F
FezCamping International des
FezN 33 59.917W 004 58.123
No alarm this morning, awake just
after 7 - 00 am, I heard the Muezzin and the usual dogs chorus earlier. A
little road noise can be heard, but not too intrusive.
Had cheese spread and bread for
breakfast for a change. Usually I have cereal.
I heard an English voice on the
telephone nearby yesterday, but there was no English registered vans. This
turned out to be Colin and Pat, both English, but now living in France. Both on
a flying tour of the North of Morocco. They live in the South of France. They
were just packing up and leaving.
We had planned going into Fez in
the afternoon, so no hurry this morning. I had a stroll around the camp. Just
like strolling through a deserted city film set. Pool deserted but still full
with water, a layer of dust dead flies and leaves on it. No cover at all. A
beautiful building that to be truthful I couldn't make up my mind what it was.
It was either a highly decorated ballroom, with a stage at one end, or a
Mosque. Highly ornate roof, columns and chandeliers. The door was open a
little, no one around, so I had a good look inside. No carpets on the floor at
all, just tiled, which added the query to its purpose. Covered dining area
outside, with a bar cafe facility nearby. An overgrown grassy childrens play
area nearby. All totally deserted. We're now in October, so I assume it was
probably busy in the Moroccan holiday season.
We had dinner and then walked out
to flag a taxi down to go into the Medina area. No problem, just up the road we
got one, already a guy in it, so we squeezed into the back. It was a bit of a
task to get the driver to understand where we wanted to go. He pulled up at a
bus stop to show the English map of the Medina that I had for him. A young
woman in a head scarve wouldn't pay any attention to me at all. I asked her in
English and in French, but she wouldn't even look at me. She just kept speaking
to the driver. Quite unusual, we have always been able to communicate with the
ladies. Some more reticent than others. Eventually a guy stepped forward and we
got some recognition of our destination.
Arriving at the Mosque and petit
taxi area, we were inundated with loutish touts. The taxi driver tried for 100
D, no way, I paid him a reasonably sixty, it's quite a few miles from the camp.
He spoke to one of these touts,
who immediately seemed to think that we were his property. We also had three
others babbling away in pigeon English. One was really ignorant, he seemed to
think we had come to Morocco to dole out cash to all and sundry. I told them
all, we didn't need them, but it was like talking to the wall. They were
aggressive and relentless. One being particularly obnoxious, with Pauline and
Patricia, while I was engaged with two other idiots.
I did recognise within a short
distance that the Medina was totally different than others we had experienced.
Seedy, narrow, an absolute rabbit warren with no discernable sky line for
location. One of the guys was a little more polite than the others, so I pulled
him aside and had a word with him. A deal was done, no money mentioned, but
there was still an air of mistrust from me.
Two obnoxious little sh*ts,
followed us for a while, not sure why, but I confronted them further along and
they gave up eventually.
Our guide was Abdullah, a student
he said, aren't they all. We visited a school, 10 D each, no mention when we
went in, but they collared us on the way out. Quite interesting, so probably
worth the 10 D. I told Abdullah that it was deducted from his fee. He pointed
out various places, in the narrow medieval alleys, some so narrow, you would
have a job squeezing down them if you had eaten a Mars bar.
He eventually passed us on to an
older guy to go to the tannery area. A carpet shop came into the conversation.
“You just look no need to buy”. He said. No chance, we go to the tannery or
nowhere I told him, we do not want carpets. He got the message. He pointed out
the different little shops, they all seemed to be making and not selling. We
then went into a leather shop which I allowed, because I could smell the
tannery and I knew the best view was from overlooking balconies. I hoped this
was where it was leading. All ok, the shop keeper led us up stairs, gave us
sprigs of mint to sniff, which were not needed really. The balcony overlooked
the medieval tannery, a quite unique place. Vats and leather, drying racks, all
various colours. We were told that they still use natural dyes, but I'm
skeptical about that. It was a totally fascinating scene, not to be missed.
On leaving, we had the usual
ritual of looking at their wares, then having to walk out. All high priced
leather items, there are better prices elsewhere. There was some beautiful
leather though.
Next, an embroidery shop that sold
all sorts. Four women sat getting Repetitive Strain injuries, with needlework,
all sat under bright lights for their eyesight to work on fine mesh cloth.
The whole area had a very seedy
atmosphere to it. Seedy looking young men on every corner, all eyeing everyone
up who passed through. It all seemed very teritorial. Nods and quick
conversations, like a local Mafia. The older guy phoned Abdullah up to meet us.
He obviously wanted his cash. The afternoon had been very warm, not very
relaxing, needing a quite agressive stance from me to ensure we weren't led a
song and dance.
So we asked Abdullah to lead us to
the Petit taxi, which he did, the old guy following along. They had an argument
between themselves, about money I presume. They always say, “ no problem” when
you ask if there is a problem.I told
Abdullah to come with me while I paid him. I didn't want the older guy knowing
what I was going to pay him.
100 D, you sort out any other guys
you need to pay yourself. I had told him all along what the score was. It was a
relief to get away from the toxic atmosphere around the area we had visited.
Sad really, because we had never had any really nasty incidents at all up to
today, nothing to cause any concern anyway.
We had some fun in the taxi on the
way back, he didn't know where the site was, eventually we got there. 40 D, I
paid him 50 D for his good humor, he was no problem, a nice guy. He went to
camping Diamond Vert first, no we don't live there.
A Brit van, Colin and Diana on
site when we got back. I had a good chat and look at maps with Colin. It was
Dianas birthday. A lovely couple feeling their way into Morocco. They had been
grabbed by the scooter guy and agreed for the 250D tour he had tried to sell
us. They also complained about the guy on reception. A little Hitler Colin
called him. They were obviously not pleased with him. Nice couple and good to
have a chat and try to help them.
Thunder and lightening after tea,
so we battened down the awning and put the chairs away. Chatted about the days
events. Mainly around how obnoxious the young guys had been in the Medina. I
suppose we have young idiots in England like them. Glad to say, my three sons
would never treat anyone in the manner we were treated.
But, that's what we travel for I
suppose, to have experiences and formulate opinions and impressions. We need to
probably see Fez some other time, let's lay it to rest for now.
I had a beer and a Bourbon. To
round the day off. I'm learning fast about Morocco.
Day 101 Thursday 3rd October 2013SOD Temp 76 Deg F
FezCamping International des
FezN 33 59.917W 004 58.123
Up 8 - 00 am, but I had been awake
for a while. Guess what ? Dogs barking. Off to Moulay Idriss this morning, but
it's only around fifty miles so there is no hurry.
We had breakfast and then
organised the van ready for getting off. I left a note stuck to Colin and
Dianas door with my email address on, asking them to let us know how they did
on their tour of Fez.
A last minute few photographs.
Pauline had found a Pomegranate bush, so she wanted a Photo of that to show her
grandchildren.
We called into Marjane for a
couple of things, just a quick in and out. No tout on a scooter this time. The
sat nav steered us around Fez onto the N6, then onto the N4 signed for Sidi
Kacem.
The road around Fez is absolutely
awful, potholes everywhere. I joked, that there should be a new Olympic sport
called dodge the pothole, the Moroccans would probably win gold every time. The
competitors would all be from Fez. What dire roads people put up with. Some
holes must be at least 4 to 5 inches deep.
Out of Fez the terrain became
quite agricultural, lots of Olive groves and other bushes in well ordered
lines, up and down the hills. Still some pot holes until we were well away from
Fez.
Fez isn't doing too good in this
diary at all. Is it ?
Setting off late, we were soon
stopping for dinner. We came upon some stalls selling fruit, overlooking a
lake. Quite a lovely scene. The lake wasn't shown on the map. A stallholder
said it was Lac Du Barrage. Presumably created by a dam. Across the lake was
mountains that reminded me of the white cliffs of Dover. They seemed to be
chalk. Really white in the distance. The lake did look beautiful and light
blue. Plantations to the right, some ruined houses on the left, possibly
vacated for the flooding of the dam. What seemed like a small lakeside holiday
area across the lake, grass sun umbrellas lined out. A small island in the
centre of the lake, one or two small boats, sheep and cows grazing.
We tried to shop at a stall, the
only one who had plums for sale. But while dealing with the guy, he turned his
back on us when a Moroccan lady spoke to him, he then totally ignored me
talking to him. So as anywhere else, if we meet ignorant sales people we don't
buy. He lost a sale of all of his plums.
Simon the sat nav steered us past
the correct turn and we ended on the N13 for Ouazzane, we had about two miles
to drive back. We had seen a sign but trusted the sat nav, it was a simple
enough route for it.
We needed N4 leading to the N13
for Meknes.
Along here we finally found Volubilis.
Turning into the road leading down to Volubilis we were flagged down by a stall
holder pleading with us to sleep there. We had a location for the next guy
along, who was reasonably laid back. Mohammed Samir, had an entry in the camp
book. We would decide later.
At Volubilis 10 D for parking to
the guardian, who asked me for a beer. I promised him one to keep an eye on the
van. Patricia and Pauline made a brew, while I had a look at a stall across the
car park. The old guy on the stall seemed quite laid back, he asked if we had
any clothes to exchange in a deal. A good price to you. So I thought we would
try him out.
I tried with three t shirts of
excellent quality to trade for a small box. He then wanted 1500 D on top of the
t shirts, no, no. He then went down to 800 D. I'm afraid my patience with these
guys has really run thin, so I cut it short, picked up the t shirts and walked
away. He followed me to the van, still chunnering about his daughters. I'm sure
that the Moroccan sellers view, is that we are all idiotic cash machines over
there to dole out to all and sundry.
10 D each to enter Volubilis,
quite ridiculously cheap. Guys all around, all looking like hovering vultures.
Luckily no one tried to hound us
as a guide, he would have been given very short shrift.
Volubilis is the largest Moroccan
Roman site, but again not being looked after. The mozaics are open to the
elements and will not last very much longer without cover. A laid back stroll
around, quite warm and no touts dogging every step. We had one guy selling post
cards, 10 for 40 D. I negotiated 15 D. Again we had all the pitch, my children,
my family. He did speak a little English, so he understood when I told him, I'd
heard it all before. Not too intrusive though. We carried on strolling and
taking photographs. Not too many people around at all. Coming off the site we
walked past the museum, closed. But it looks like that it will be the entrance
in the future. Money spent on that, but no simple shelter for the mozaics.
Back at the van the guardian got
his beer, asking for more, any vino, they always want more. He was ok though. A
coach party was leaving, it was 6 - 30 pm by then.
Driving up the road away from the
site, we passed Mohammed Samir, we got a friendly wave. The guy on the end
stall came chasing out and running after the van. Maybe he expected me to stay
and dole out some cash.
Sat nav set for the campsite,
quite a longer drive from Volubilis than it indicates in the book. But it was
spot on location wise. A nice little camp site, a couple of vans on when we
arrived. But I spotted a few dogs on site, oh no.
Just had a cobbled up tea, rolls
etc. A bottle of beer and good chat about the day. Nice to chat over the days
events. All in all, a lovely laid back day.
Volubilis thank you. For me there
is some kind of magic in wandering around historical sites. I sometimes wonder
if there is something that blows on the winds of time, in places that have had
long periods of people living there, with all the trials and tribulations of
life. They then become deserted due to economic changes, but the whole feel of
the places are imprinted on the sites, leaving an aura to be tuned into by the
true traveler and dreamer. I do feel we have missed the historic element on
this trip.
Day 102 Friday 4th October 2013SOD Temp 75 Deg F
Near Moulay IdrissCamping
BellevueN 34 00.876W 005 33.690
Alarm on for 6 - 00 am. An amazing
night, no dogs surprisingly, after spotting a few last night and no Muezzin.
This camp could score a ten out of ten. Total peace and quiet at the moment,
only the buzzing of a wasp trying to get in by a roof vent.
Paid fees, 115 D. The camp has a
swimming pool, but it was nearly empty, just a brown scummy amount of water on
the bottom. A little bar cum cafe. I peeped through a curtain and there was
work in progress on a room behind the cafe. Concrete and planks etc. lying
around the room.
Leaving the camp we started on the
N13 up past Volubilis, we had been on this road yesterday. We then went along
the N4, to pick up the N13 again and head north to Chefchaouen.
Here I have to say that this
section of road, which went on until Ouazzane, around 45 miles, was the worst
road I have ever driven on. Absolutely atrocious. I never had time to look at
any surrounding scenery, I was watching every inch of the surface to avoid
potholes, cracks, cambers, edge of the road disappearing. We were down to 20
and 30 mph for mile after mile. I also had to allow for traffic coming the
other way, steering around the rough parts of the road.
We had dinner in Ouazzane at a
space that seemed to be reserved for taxis. I was totally in need of a break.
My head was like a punch bag after the jarring and banging of the last three
hours. Three hours for around 45 miles, that tells its own story.
Thank god after Ouazzane the road
improved 1000% and I could finally relax and look at some passing scenery. Lots
of houses with corrugated tin roofs seemed to appear along this section of
road. They reminded me of pictures of houses in Indo China. The landscape was
quite green and had well organised plantations of Olives etc. But on the whole,
not a very interesting leg of the trip. We had some nice scenery approaching
Chefchaouen.
The sat nav steered us to the camp
site, but was again slightly incorrect, showing the camp to be further on than
it was. There are some Brit vans on site, another tour group, Desert Detours, I
think they are called. Had a chat with one of the group and his wife, I
mentioned the bad road. Don't know if it will be of any use to them. There are
a couple of caravans in the group, I definitely don't fancy towing a caravan
along that section of road.
The site isn't up to much, but is
the second dearest we have stayed on at 140 D per night. No pool or restaurant,
all basic amenities. Lots of piles of soil dumped all around the periphery of
the site, like a builders dump.
Chicken stir fry for tea, very
nice indeed. I must say, Patricia is an excellent cook, boy am I lucky. We
again discussed being tired at the end of the day while in Morocco. It's acombination of things, but for me the
attention to driving and the heat is probably the two main factors.
An early night again for us all.
The camp is quiet and dark.
Day 103Saturday 5th October
2013SOD Temp 70 Deg F
ChefchaouenCamping AzilanN 35 10.559W 005 15.993
Up 7 - 10 am, a quiet and peaceful
night, didn't hear dogs or Muezzin, just a cock crowing, which must have had a
lie in, it was around 7 - 00 am. A van leaving site as we put the kettle on,
early leavers. It actually felt chilly during the night.
A no rush morning, we are planning
to go into Chefchaouen. Sunny again, but it's a little late here,it has to rise over the mountains behind us.
I popped into reception to query
ordering a Petit Taxi, no problem he said, just let me know ten minutes before
you want to leave. It was a different story when we were leaving. Patricia and
Pauline called in first, while I locked up the van. He wanted one of his
friends to run us, but it would be 15 D each way. I called in and reminded him
he had promised to call a taxi. He said his telephone was out of credit, his
friend would run us, but would have to come back, so it would be 15 D each way.
I ignored the guy, he came over as very arrogant and cocky. So I spoke to his
friend, sorted it out with him. He ran us down and dropped us off at a cash
machine, I paid him 20 D. It was only just down the hill, but it was to save
Pauline walking in. He was a lot nicer guy than the receptionist, who came over
as the usual, lying every time he opened his mouth Moroccan tout, always on the
look out to make a Dirham. I'm sure it must be in the DNA of some of them.
The guy who ran us spoke a little
English, he ran us in a 4x4 jeep, which he uses for his business doing tours
etc. He was pretty sensible and helpful. There seems to be something in their
eyes and I am getting attuned to it, to pick out the idiots who think we're
wallet carrying patsies.
At the cash machine, no money came
out, ah, what to do now. I watched as one young guy got his money, he spoke
English, we had done everything right. Pauline tried and it worked. We tried
and it worked. The only difference was, we had pressed for savings account
instead of current account on the failed transaction. Ah well, hope it's all
sorted, we made a note of the time, place and failed transaction.
Chefchaouen turned out to be a
lovely laid back place. We had a great few hours wandering around the Medina,
doing some shopping and taking lots of photographs. Absolutely no hassle at
all. A very photogenic place.
Pauline bought a Kaftan, a pencil
case and a pen, also some small colourful tassles. We bought a wooden box, two
small leather carrier pouches, pencil case, pen and postcards and the colourful
tassles.
Cheekily asking the tassle man, to
throw one in to put on my guitar, a lovely light blue one.
The change in attitude compared
with Fez was incredible. The people smiling, children playing, the white and
blue streets a pleasure to stroll around. The salesmen helpful and not too
pushy at all.
We finished the afternoon with
cokes and a mint tea, in a cafe just across from the Kasbah in the square.
Watching the world go by. Also watching one sad, I presume,mentally ill guy picking up cigarette stumps
and generally wandering around in his own world. He was once someones small
child. Sad to see.
We also had a Moroccan Nigel
Kennedy, screwing an awful din out of a Violin, kidding the cafe customers he
was playing it, pretending to busk, he had around four notes that he repeated
over and over. It became a bit painful to me, I hope his customers were
impressed, I wasn't.
Some brief notes follow. Five
children eating crisp sat on a step. Children playing with wooden spinning
tops. Donkeys used for delivering goods to shops. Kaftan buying, waiting while
the first guy brought more, but unsuccessful. Weavers in small rooms. Old guy
sleeping, his son said he was 100 years old. Tried to buy scarf from him. 400
D, but not a Berber scarf, too short, so no deal. Small workshops. An artist at
work, he was from London. A little arrogant and flippant I thought. Not the way
to win friends and influence people. Small boy learning wood cutting with his
dad.
But there is always an ill wind
blowing somewhere, two small incidents. One guy selling postcards, because we
didn't want to buy his, all dusty and curled up, no wonder really. He was
abusive. I had to confront him, he said the usual, "No problem". Then
added sullenly, "All happy like chickens". He had a really surly, sly
demeanour. Like I said, it was in the eyes.
Another guy selling tomatoes when
we were on our way out, 6D per kg, Pauline just mentioned to me we had paid 4 D
last time we bought them. He picked up his scale tray and dumped them back in
the box. Oh well, we"ll not bother then.
But no real hassle, just two guys
with slight personality problems. They would have happier lives if they chilled
out a little.
We got a petit taxi back to the
camp.
I chatted with one of the tour
group parked across the camp from us. He turned out to be a German guy with his
son in an English registered van. He came from Ormskirk near Wigan. In fact
about 6 or 7 miles from Wigan. He had lived in Ormskirk for 25 years.He was on his second Moroccan trip, the first
was 13 years ago on an off road trip.
Also chatted with a guy from a
Brit caravan parked alongside us. They are on the way back, this is as far
south as they are going. Just a brief trip into Northern Morocco he said. There
is a caravan with the tour group, not something I would fancy doing. Caravans
have never interested me at all.
We also had a look at the pottery
shed just inside the camp gates. There is an enormous selection of pottery for
sale. We bought two outdoor candle burners, two slippers and two plates 120 D.
A better price than we have been asked at various stalls. They were covered in
dust and seem to be an idea left to die. A job lot bought on the off chance of
selling them. It's hard to tell the colour of some of them for the dust. Pay in
the morning when we are leaving he said.
I went for a stroll while Patricia
and Pauline prepared tea, Spaghetti Bolognese. Outside of the camp gate a young
guy approached me, asking where I was from. When he established I was English,
he started speaking in English. Did I want to buy a little Hash. No, but we had
an interesting conversation. He sells to Moroccan men who don't or can't drink
beer. I couldn't clarify from him, if the alcohol thing was written in the
Quran. I couldn't get an answer from him, I don't think he really understood my
question. An interesting little interlude. He was hanging around the Youth
Hostel just outside the camp gates.
All in all a good day. Darkness
fell around 7 - 30 pm revealing a beautiful Venus shining in the Western sky
accompanied by a howl hooting in the pine trees.
A beer and a whiskey and coke later.
I had a read to finish the day.
Day 104Sunday 6th October
2013SOD Temp 70 Deg F
ChefchaouenCamping AzilanN 35 10.559W 005 15.993
Alarm on for 6 - 00 am, cock was
again crowing but just before the alarm. A peaceful night, didn't hear any Muezzin.
Breakfast and then prepared for the off. Toilet sorted and water topped up. 140
D per night, two nights stay, so a total with the pots we bought of 400 D.The Desert Detours group are also leaving at
10 - 30 am. I noted the tour leaders van is registered in Spain, so the
business is also probably in Spain, but targeted at British customers.
Leaving the site we set Satellite
Simon to take us to the N13, again a bad choice of road from the sat nav,
luckily an old Moroccan guy spotted us just turning into the road and pointed
out not to go down it. Teutouan is down down the other road he said and he was
spot on. No problem after.
Not far out of Chefchaouen we
stopped at a roadside stall to pick up some fruit. 1kg tomatoes, 1 kg red
apples, 1.5kg green apples, 1kg red grapes, 1 kg green grapes, 0.5 kg pears,
1kg plums, 0.5 kg green peppers, 1kg potatoes and 2 pomegranates. A total of 94
D, we gave them 103 D with the change we had. Incredible excellent value. Also
a good humored family business, nice people. The fruit standard was excellent
also.
We noticed four dams in passing.
It looks like there are some big dam projects going on. They all seem to be
under construction.
Passing through Tetouan we passed
the Marjane so popped in for a couple of things. Two Pulet Roti for 64 D, they
were on special offer, £4.75 in English money. Bread, Fig Jam, Bananas.
We decided to look at Cabo Negro
andhave some dinner, it was only a few
miles down the road. What a good idea. The road in was excellent, a large free
car park welcomed us.Chicken dinner
completed, we had a stroll on the beach front. It does seem a very nice laid
back place now, out of season. Some quiet music playing from a drinks kiosk
nearby. But I would think it gets quite busy in season. There is lots of
acommodation around. Also a golf club local.
From Cabo Negro to Ceuta was now
endless holiday accommodation, particularly on the beach side of the road we
were driving along.
We needed Diesel and a Post Box.
First a Post Box, Satellite Simon indicated one in M'diq , there was, but it
was closed and we had to nogotiate a Sunday market to get to it. Typical chaos
all over the roads.
Afriqia for diesel, "Complet,
sil vous plait ". 450 D, only problem was, it wasn't "complet",
still quarter of the tank to fill when I left. I did suspect it from the price.
So turn around and have another go, another 200 D with a different pump
attendant did the job.
Abandoning the post box search we
headed for the border. The usual touts waving papers. We were of the understanding
that we had all the papers we needed, yellow papers all filled in. But no, they
wanted white papers, identical information to the yellow. So we had to pull
over and fill the white ones in. No big problem.
Laughably there is a sign
indicating no car horn blowing. What a waste of a sign, idiots blasting horns
continuously in the lines of cars. One Moroccan customs guy asking us about our
stay, how long we had been on the road. A nice sociable guy. No problems at
all. Spanish customs just waved us through.
Straight to the Marina in Ceuta
for overnight. Showers just across the Marina from where we are parked. No hook
up, cars parked in the places near the Motorhome friendly hook up points. All
the rest are big marine plug points.
Tea of Chicken sauteed potatoes,
sweetcorn and bread. A vote was had, I wrote out three voting slips, yes on one
side, no on the other. The question was, "Would you come back to Morocco
?"Three slips were laid on the table,
all showing yes. Despite some incredible extremes we have seen, it really is a
country worth seeing.A big experience,
would sum it up in three words.
I had a couple of beers to round
the night off.
Day 105 Monday 7th October 2013SOD Temp 75 Deg F
Ceuta MarinaN 35 53.430W 005 18.831
Alarm on for 7 - 00 am, but we
have been awake for a while, a wind sock on the Marina has been clicking for
ages. Not sure why it clicks, it started during the night. Had breakfast and
watched a couple of Catamarans docking. Two different docking abilities it seemed.
The first one seemed to be all panic and running around, it bumped the yacht
alongside of it, they didn't get any padding in between the two.
The second one, steered in, tied
up, absolutely spot on, no problem at all. A German family were on the first Catamaran,
with a little boy sat on his toy car, which was on the cross netting between
the two hulls.
The first job today is to download
Paulines flight documents from the Ryan Air website. Strolled across to
McDonalds with Pauline, they were closed until 12 - 00 pm, so we sat on the
wall outside and did the job there. Patricia joined us just as we had finished.
I went back to the van to print off the docs, Patricia and Pauline went into
town for some money and a few groceries.
Docs done we had dinner, moved the
van to the other side of the Marina and sorted the toilet. Patricia walked back
to the kiosk to pay and tell them to open the big gate for us. 15 Euros paid
for one day. The guy opened the gate, Gracias and we were away to the dock.
Easy entry to the dock, quite clearly signed. We had the last of the Moroccan
touts, two ladies selling bits and pieces. We bought four necklaces and two
miniature slippers, they cost two Euros and a pack of biscuits. We did have 140
Dirhams left, but we decided to send that to the Church in Asilah that we
visited when we were there. We have the ladies address who gave us the little
tour around.
I think the two ladies here are in
competition, they didn't seem to speak to each other at all. The kiosk finally
opened to check our tickets. Not really busy at all. Down to the waiting area,
just one car in front of us.We weren't
long before boarding.
On time we left Africa, Ceuta and
Morocco behind us. Standing and watching the coast slipping into the haze, the
anticipation of arriving in Africa seemed a long way away. Expectations and
ideas attained from reading, all now replaced by our own impressions and
memories. What a wonderful memorable adventure.
Minimal fuss at Algeciras, the
trucks seemed to have all the attention. Illegal immigrants I would suspect.
One search dog showing little interest in the truck in front of us, it wandered
off. Sat nav set for Lidl car park for over night. No other motor homes there
when we arrived. A shop at Lidl to top up necessities. McDonalds for tea, they
still had the special off er 4 for U on. Four items for 3.90 Euros. Not a bad
deal. Wi fi on,mail and news picked up.
When we were last here there was a
guy with a bike and trailer, he seemed to be an alcoholic. He was there again
sat outside ofLidl. Later on he was
stood up in the same position for more than two hours. He never moved. He
obviously has problems. I went to him, he spoke a little English. A Greek guy,
he said he was drinking but he was ok. We later decided to see if he wanted
something to eat and drink, not alcohol. He wasn't drinking at all, not that we
could see. I tried to get him to sit down and have a drink of water and
something to eat. I cleared his chair, but he wouldn't sit down. He accepted
the biscuits, banana and water, but didn't want the crisp.
He said he lived in a tent on the
beach.I then noticed that he had a box
that people had been tossing change into. He went into Lidl later, presumably
to spend his collection on some more booze. He later left pushing his bike and
trailer. A sad little incident. Lots of people had passed him by, as if he was
invisible.
Well we're back in Spain, near
McDonalds, so we again have the cars throwing rubbish out of the window. They
really are imbecilic morons, pond life with the brains of ameobas. A sad
example of a bad Spanish attitude.
Off to bed around ten. Had a read
for a while, no alcohol when we free camp.
Thoughts on Morocco
Before coming to Morocco I had
read a few blogs and diaries from the internet. There seemed to be a distinct
love or hate theme in them. One in particular I remember, must have been
travelling with rose colored glasses. One very good one was by Doctor Bob
located onmagbaz.com website.
Having now had a reasonable look
at Morocco, I can understand why the extreme views are formed. Because it is a
country of extremes, absolute extremes.
Let's get one thing clear for
anyone wanting to visit Morocco. You do not need a tour group to travel with. I
say it again, you do not need a tour group to travel with. Sorry you tour
groups. We met one group that had paid out £2,500 each for the privilege.
If you are a very nervous person
then maybe there is some merit in a tour group. But why go to Morocco if you
are of this disposition. Underneath, you are very adventurous. You really can
save yourself a lot of cash planning it yourself. Just do your homework before
you go. There will be times when preparation will help you out no end.
If you're touchy about hygiene, be
prepared. You will see some sites. We always washed all fruit and vegetables in
a sterilizing solution, before even putting it in the fridge. Only drink sealed
bottle water, it's available everywhere. Some camp site toilets leave a lot to
be desired, but in general, they get the job done.
The people you meet in general are
absolutely lovely. They are dirt poor in general, so obviously they see you as
a possible handout of cash or goods. The touts and conmen (and let's be
truthful some of the people are), are a different thing, so how you deal with
them, I leave to yourself. Most take no as an answer, but the persistent and
some were really persistent, I treated as I would people in England. Firmly and
no nonsense.
It is a difficult dilemma, to
visit and observe, but not to be arrogant, selfish and exploitive. Bartering is
a difficult idea for us to understand and the Moroccans play it for all it's
worth. Join in the fun, it seemed like a game at times. Every deal I did, even
some which I thought I had done a superb deal, the sales guys were always smiling.
So they must be ok with it.
Positives
A very big country, with enormous
skies and distant vistas of hazy mountains of blue, red and pink etc.
Incredible scenery and rock formations. Atlas Mountains, Sahara Desert, Sand
storms ( certainly an experience I will never forget ) Atlantic waves washing
deserted beaches. Cheap, diesel, fruit and vegetables and also some items in
Supermarkets. Thousands of happy looking children on bikes going to school, a
lovely sight.
Negatives
I can't really think of any major
ones. Here I need to drag up and be pedantic I suppose.
Some really bad roads, but not a
lot. Most were fine. Some obnoxious young guys in Fez.
Leaving thought. While in Morocco, I had a sense of heightened
awareness and perceptions. I want to go
back some day. I don't think it will be long before we do. For a longer stay
this time.