The Rudds in Spain on the Road to France 2013

Continued from: On the Road in Morocco 2013 

Continued at: In France on the Road to England 2013

Brian and Patricia Rudd
January 2014 

Introduction 

Brian and Patricia left England in June 2013 for what became a 105-day motorhome journey. They travelled through France and Spain to Morocco. Following a 30-day tour of Morocco, they returned to England, again through Spain and Spain. They  give detailed information on their journey, including co-ordinates, on all the places they spent a night, specialising in finding informal places to camp.

You can find equally detailed accounts of three other motorhome journeys they have made in the Fellow Travellers feature on this website.

For more information, you can contact the Rudds at:  

Day 105 Monday 7th October 2013   SOD Temp 75 Deg F

Ceuta Marina   N 35 53.430  W 005 18.831

Alarm on for 7 - 00 am, but we have been awake for a while, a wind sock on the Marina has been clicking for ages. Not sure why it clicks, it started during the night. Had breakfast and watched a couple of Catamarans docking. Two different docking abilitirs it seemed. The first one seemed to all panic and running around, it bumped the yacht alongside of it, they didn't get any padding in between the two.

The second one, steered in, tird up, absolutely spot on, no problem at all. A German family on the first Catamaran, a little boy sat on his toy car which was on the cross netting between the two hulls.

The first job is to download Paulines flight documents from the Ryanaire website. Strolled across to McDonalds with Pauline, they were closed until 12 - 00 pm, so we sat on the wall outside and did the job there. Patricia joined us just as we had finished. I went back to the van to print off the docs, Patricia and Pauline sent into town for some money and a few groceries. Docs done we had dinner, moved van to the other side of the Marina, sorted the toilet. Patricia walked back to the kiosk to pay and tell them to open the big gate for us. 15 Euros paid for one day. The guy opened the gate, Gracias and we were away to the dock. Easy entry to the dock, quite clearly signed. We had the last of the Moroccan touts, two ladies selling bits and pieces. We bought four necklaces and two miniature slippers, cost two Euros and a pack of biscuits.

We did have 140 Dirhams left, but we are sending that to the Church in Asilah that we visited when we were there. We have the ladies address who gave us the little tour around. I think the two ladies were in competition, they didn't seem to speak to each other at all. The kiosk finally opened to check our tickets. Not really busy at all. Down to the waiting area, just one car in front of us.  We weren't long before boarding. On time we left Africa, Ceuta and Morocco behind us. Standing and watching the coast slipping into the haze, the anticipation of arriving in Africa seemed a long way away. Expectations and ideas attained from reading, all now replaced by our own impressions and memories. What a wonderful memorable adventure.

Minimal fuss at Algeciras, the trucks seemed to have all the attention. Illegal immigrants I would suspect. One search dog showing little interest in the truck in front of us, it wandered off. Sat nav set for Lidl car park for overnighting. No other motorhomes there when we arrived. Shop at Lidl to top up necessities.

McDonalds for tea, they still had the special off 4 for U on. Four items for 3.90 Euros. Not a bad deal. Wifi on,  mail and news picked up.

When we were last here there was a guy with a bike and trailer, he seemed to be an alcoholic. He was there again sat outside of Lidl. Later on he was stood up in the same position for more than two hours. He has obvious problems. I went to him, he spoke a little English. A Greek guy, he said he was drinking buthe was ok. We later decided to see if he wanted something to eat and drink, not alcohol. He wasn't drinking at all, not that we could see. I tried to get him to sit down and have a drink of water and something to eat. I cleared his chair, but he wouldn't sit down. He accepted the biscuits, banana and water, but didn't want the crisp.He saidhe lived in a tent on the beach.  I then noticed that he had a box that people had been tossing change into. He went into Lidl later, presumably to spend his collection on some more booze. He later left pushing his bike and trailer. A sad little incident. Lots of people had passed him by, as if he was invisible.

Well we're back in Spain, near McDonalds, so we again have the cars throwing rubbish out of the window. They really are imbecilic morons, pond life with the brains of ameobas. A sad example of a bad Spanish attitude.

Off to bed around ten. Had a read for a while, No drink when we free camp.

Day 106 Tuesday 8th October 2013   SOD Temp 75 Deg F

Lidl car park   Palmones   Near Algeciras  W 36 10.919  W 005 26.380

Alarm on for 7 - 00 am, but traffic noise has been quite loud, so we have been awake for a while. Had breakfast watching the people waiting for Lidl to open. The cleaning lady doing her morning job, of sweeping up the rubbish left by McDonalds customers.

Looking at the Aires book for Spain and Portugal, I decided to head for Sanlucar de Barremeda. We are heading for Seville on Wednesday, so it would make a stopping off place. Onto the A381 a dual carriage way heading to Jerez de la Frontera, where we dropped off onto the A480. The sat nav taking us straight to the Aire. A large sandy parking space near the sea and river estuary. Just as we pulled in, a van pulled out, so we slotted straight in with a sea view.

Had dinner and then a stroll along the river. There is a walkway and cycle path all along, which eventually runs out into a dusty dirt road just after a line of restaurants. The sun had come out with a vengeance, so it was quite warm as we walked. The Palm tree lined walkway passes a Nautical training centre, further along we saw two stalls selling bits and pieces. Pauline was looking for a wallet, but the stall holder wanted too much. Typical tourist prices.

The restaurants were touting us to come in, but sorry, we are just walking. It does get tedious after a while, when you can't walk along without being accosted by a pseudo friendly stranger. A few restaurants were closed, all the tables and umbrellas were stored inside. Presumably their season is over.

At the end of the good sidewalk, there is the contrast of new property alongside derelict property and garbage filled wasteland. Maybe the new properties are holiday lets, but I don't really fancy spending a holiday alongside a wasteland full of rubbish. But then no doubt, some do.

Not many people around at all, we were practically the only ones walking along. Maybe a couple of people on bikes.

A Brit van alongside us when we returned. Another Brit van was there when we arrived.

We had lifted the barbecue stuff out of the freezer before leaving and put it on the top of the van to thaw out. I set the barbie up for tea. A lovely evening sat with the barbie, Pork, Chicken, Bratwurst and a small Spanish Sausage, left over from when Marc, Helena and Lily were with us. There are still some more in the freezer. Potatoes and salad added the rest of the tea.

Coke mixed with cold water is a lovely refreshing drink, the water flattens the gas in the coke. A few glasses with tea. I had a chat with the couple who were here when we arrived. They are retired, from Exmouth, out for six seeks, they have three weeks left now. I spoke to the couple in the other Brit van alongside us, but the reaction and body language of them said, "Look we are miserable buggers, who don't want to talk to anyone. " It's not hard to read reactions. They, for some reason didn't want to know. Maybe because the van is filthy with Moroccan dust. Maybe my hair is too long. Maybe they don't like my "Aging Hippy Pants", christened by Mike and Heather, who we met in France on another trip. A decent description I might add. Maybe they are just general miserable buggers, like the neighbours from hell. We have a few in Wigan, near to where we live.

The Spanish couple alongside us, in an unusual van, with what seemed like domestic double glazed windows, stayed in the van watching television all afternoon. They then livened up and were quite noisy when it cooled down later.

The walkway alongside the river livened up also, as the sun went down, teaming with people, walking, running, cycling, skateboarding, roller skating. Where the hell have they all come from ?  It was like a deserted city this afternoon, the wonders of Siesta.

A lovely sunset, we went out on the sidewalk to join the throng and get some photographs. I had a couple of beers while sat out. The Citrus candle we burn to deter midges, ( Does it work ? ) kept blowing out in the wind, so I covered it with a cut off plastic bottle top, job done. Patent applied for number 1234567. Licensing can be arranged.

The sidewalk provided us with lots of entertainment, watching all the different people and their approaches to running, walking etc. Quite a lot out for the exercise. I joked that some gave the impression of being Storm Troopers on the march. Our unsociable neighbors were sat in watching tv.

Can't see the point myself, you can do that all the time at home. A Bourbon and Coke with a book to finish the day. A good decision was made this morning to come here.

Day 107 Wednesday 9^th October 2013 Sanlucar De Barameda  SOD Temp 72 Deg F

N 36 47.084  W 006 21.561

Awake 7 - 00 am. A quiet night, no dogs, no Muezzin, no cock crowing, sheer bliss. Just our unsociable neighbor making some loud grunting noises, when we were having a brew.  A beautiful day, quite a lot of people on the promenade walking and jogging.  Had a chat with our Carl, it's his birthday today. All seems well, that's good.

The usual morning routine for leaving. I noticed the Spanish guy alongside of us got water from across the Aire. I still can't see any electric points. We had a chat with him, his father is American, he said and lives in the States with his brother. He has always lived in Spain, nowhere else.

Mr. misery and his wife from next door still not communicating. I had a word with the Brit couple from Exmouth, they were considering going to Ronda. I mentioned about the Aire north of Ronda at Olvera. We had the problem getting to it, ending in a front garden. So a little advice if they see the same road from the sat nav, don't go down it. Nice couple.

A471 out of town onto the IV to Seville. The route goes through some quite unexciting country, lots of ploughed hills and fields, also lots of cotton for miles and miles. Nothing of interest off the road at all, quite mundane. We stopped at Los Palacios y Villafranca, no decent parking place, we just squeezed in near a park, across from industrial units. Quite warm again, the temperature had been climbing. Lots of busy ants in the sand, making incredible circular doughnut shaped piles of sand.

We set the sat nav for our destination, only around 17 miles to go, lots of islands and speed bumps.

The place for the night is a Caravan and Motor home sales place. They have an Aire also, not picturesque, but convenient.  My eyes are really sore, not sure why, heat etc. 10 Euros for the night with electric. Lots of space for parking in a secure compound.

An American couple Chris and Audrey, his wife pulled in later. They are on a motor home swap trip. He has damaged the Hymer he has borrowed. A nice couple, very talkative as most travelling Americans seem to be.

Pauline sorted out her clothes for flying home tomorrow, her journey is nearly at an end. I had a walk around the accessory shop on site, all the usual stuff,  nothing of interest really.

We power washed the van when the sun had cooled a little, got most of the Moroccan dust off. We have wi fi here also, so picked up the news and emails. emails are nearly all advertising, I will shut the address down when we get home. Chicken, chips and rice for tea. Sat outside with computer tablet in the cool of the evening. Ready for bed later with my eyes being sore.

Day 108 Thursday 10th October 2013   SOD Temp 72 Deg F

Alcala de Guadaira   Hidalgo Dealer Caravan and motor home sales 

 N 37 19.755  W 005 48.329

Awake 7 - 20 am. A quiet night, heard some dogs and a cock  crow for good measure. Had breakfast and last minute preparation for Pauline flying home. Chris and Audrey our American neighbors are leaving also. They are moving to a campsite near Seville, to enable them to go into town. We had a chat for a while before they left. Originally from Denver Colorado, they moved to Tucson Arizona on retiring. They are now spending quite a lot of time travelling, utilizing motor home exchanges. A lovely American couple, enjoying their retirement and European history.

We had an early dinner to enable us to get down to the airport a little early. After dropping Pauline off we had around 150 miles to drive. Sat nav set, we found the departures easily. No problem, Pauline dropped off, hugs and kisses and we were off. It's nearly the end of her little adventure.

Sat nav put us on the A66 heading North. A really good road which enabled us to make good time. Nothing of any real note or interest out of the window to report. We stopped for a break and a coffee around 50 miles from Caceres. Pulling onto a side road and parking near some newly planted vines.

The roads are good but there are not many Aires or service places immediately accessible from the road. Not a lot of traffic on the road, on some sections just us for miles and miles.

Caceres is quite a big place, the local area is named after it, so it must be the centre of administration locally. The Aire was full when we arrived, a van just pulling in before us. So we looped around the car park and pulled in under some trees near the little cafe adjacent to the Aire. There was already one Spanish van there, also a big dog chained to a tree. The lady in the van moved the dog, to enable us to get in.

I had a walk to find a local shop for some onions for tea. I found one around 150 yards across the main road which passes the Aire. It seems a popular Aire, we had several more vans arrive and park near us later, one a Brit couple with a Spanish reg Swift Kontiki. He bought it on E Bay he said.

Mushroom omelette for tea, quite ready for it too, after the early dinner, we followed with cheese and crackers.

We had a lovely entertainment all night, the local brass band was rehearsing upstairs in the building adjacent to us, the cafe is on the ground floor. A good selection of Spanish band tunes, rehearsing beginnings and endings mainly. I was quite familiar with most of the tunes. Quite loud, but enjoyable.

Children had been using the nearby play area earlier, but dispersed when it went dark, even though the area is well lit. Our Spanish lady parked alongside of us, who seemed to be alone, went out somewhere for a few minutes leaving her door open on the van. Her dog gave a wonderful display of whining and howling for her. It had been quiet up to then, it stopped when she returned. A quiet night on our own now after Paulines departure. A read and off to sleep, our journey home well under way now.

Day 109 Friday 11th October 2013   SOD Temp 66 Deg F

Caceres   N 39 28.850  W 006 21.978

Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. A quiet and peaceful night. Awake just before the alarm with a little local noise.

Our Spanish lady has gone already, an early starter. The seasons are showing a little now, dew on the grass this morning, the first I have noticed for a while.

Well satellite Simon played up this morning wanting to take us into narrow streets, when all we wanted was the road out of Caceres. We eventually get there with me having to keep over riding its commands.

A66 heading north, again a good road. We passed a couple of lakes that looked like they had been created by dams. Slowly climbing with some quite steep sections for a motorway type of road. We also saw two bridges alongside the road being constructed.  I think they were for railway, quite large projects so close to the A66 didn't make sense to be road bridges. But then again, we are in Spain, they seem to build roads for fun.

The miles rolled by, nothing of any major interest as we passed by. Rolling hills change to mountains slowly as we climb. Patricia decided to do a little knitting. Only around 130 miles for todays run. We have commented that in Spain, they build lots of roads, but don't supply rest places or Aires. So imagine our surprise when we spotted one, let's get in and have some dinner. A nice quiet spot. A lady in a car near us was bending down and touching her toes, she was then trying to get her guy to touch his, he got to a ninety degree bend and that was it. Me, people watching, to pass the time.

Satellite Simon led us straight to the Aire for tonight, an English van parked there when we arrived. We searched out the services, which weren't immediately obvious. It seems that some local authorities play hunt the services with motor homers, you are told there are services, but you have to spend some time finding them.

Eventually with my Sherlock Holmes hat on I found them, a grey water grid that had to be lifted to reveal the toilet disposal vent. Water was in a grid near this, a valve releasing an upright fountain of water, not really helpful without hoses and fittings, the pipe was just round metal no fitting at all.

Later I noticed a young local guy across the car park, with a tap washing and drinking at a concrete block. I wandered over to explore. The block had a hole at the front where a tap should be, behind the block was a 6 inch square metal door near the ground, with a fitting for locking it. Inside this door was a valve to turn the water on. None of this could be seen from the parking area at all. See what I mean, playing games. A simple notice would have helped.

I filled a bottle with water and strolled over to the English couple who were sat on a bench in the sun. They greeted me with "Holah". “No Holah needed here, I'm English”. “What from Yorkshire”. “No Lancashire”. “Oh that's alright then”.

We had a chat for a while. They were from Sheffield and Chesterfield. Sailed into Santander bound for Portugal, now on their way home. A van from Holland came in a little later.

Patricia spent some time changing the beds. I spent some time killing flies. Where they came from and how they got in the van is a mystery. But the most we have had, even more than Morocco. Maybe we are in the Fly centre of Spain.

Steak, potatoes and peas for tea, followed by cheese and crackers. A read for a while, having a quiet hour. The evening cooled down to around 64 Deg F before we got off to bed.

The plan is to get across Spain into France, where we will have a few visiting days, we have more info in the van on France, so can plan better stops and visits hopefully.

Day 110  Saturday 12th October 2013   SOD Temp 48 Deg F

El Encinar  Aire     Near Salamanca   N 40 52.806  W 005 34.947

Alarm on for 7 - 00 am, but knocked it off and had another hour. The temperature had plummeted this morning, getting us adjusted to a return to England, 48 Deg F on rising, I think it's the coldest morning I have recorded on this trip. We are at over 3,000 ft though, which will make it a little cooler. Maybe it will warm as we go lower heading North. A real Autumn feel in the air, weak sun shining through the Olive trees in front of us. Dew on the grass. We're even noticing the deciduous trees changing their colors.

I put a pair of socks on this morning, the first time for months. Also my multicolored coat. It was slow warming up this morning also. But all in all, out of the van, it was a lovely, cool, sunny October day.

The couple from Yorkshire turned out to be Geoff and Mary. They called in to say goodbye after they had done toilet and water. A nice simple gesture. We always try to speak to people we have met before we leave. A simple courtesy. They have around a week before their prebooked ferry date. I think they are going back from Santander.A nice couple enjoying their travels,  walking and cycling.  Patricia was in the bathroom, so didn't get to speak to them.

 Mary reminded me a little of Jo, who we met on a trip in France, travelling down with Eddie her partner.

Toilet and water done, we got on our way. Backtracking a little on the road we came in on and then an un numbered road for around 6 miles, across the farmers fields, taking us to the A66, where we again pointed north.

A66 around Salamanca, then pick up the A62. This road was not as well surfaced as the A66. Especially near Salamanca. We have noticed that the surface of the road changes at the boundary line from area to area. Maybe each area has its responsibility to surface the road. Well obviously Salamanca don't have it highly prioritized.

There are a few more pull in stops and Aires along the road now we are getting in Northern Spain. We spotted one around 25 miles from Palencia. It was a Cepsa station. They sold bread and we discovered amazingly, that they had wi fi.

A long dinner catching up with mail, news etc. A Spanish van pulled in near us.

The last 25 miles done, we rolled into Palencia. We spotted a Mercadona it was closed. Then a Carrefour, it was closed. Saturday afternoon ?  Is it a holiday. We got the feeling it was. The roads were quiet in town.

First impressions of Palencia was it seemed a nice neat and tidy town. Enhanced by the Aire when we arrived, a well marked out and organized one. The best marked out we have seen in Spain. A local park opposite, with walks and ducks quacking. Two Brit vans on when we arrived. We had a brew and then a walk to find a shop. We spoke to one of the guys from the nearest Brit van, an Autotrail. He had used the Aire several times on his yearly sojourn to Portugal. He said there was a small supermarket local. He also said, "you must have plenty money," in response to me telling him we were driving home from Morocco. "Why don't you fly ? A 25 quid flight from Faro and we're home" O.k if your going back to the same place I suppose. He had obviously attended night school in diplomacy. I suggest he failed his exams.

Strolling around town we asked two policemen, who were in deep conversation with a lady, who obviously worked for Debenhams, she had most of the makeup stall on her face. Where could we find a cash machine ? Pointed in the right direction, we found it. 100 Euros extracted. We also found the small supermarket. I would call it a shop.

All the bars were open, but no other shops except this one, which was run by a Chinese couple. People seemed to be dressed up also strolling around. We were sure it was a holiday of some kind. But, Saturday ?

Back at the van, Patricia did what we in Wigan call Lobbies. Potatoe, onion, beef, carrots all cooked together. It was a Lobby day, the coolest for a long time.

While washing up later, several policemen arrived at the Aire, they seemed to have been brought by a van owner. We initially thought, maybe a break in. But their focus seemed to be on a guy in a German reg van near us. Quizzing him and asking for his passport. I asked them what was the problem, but they said, no problem, as policemen usually do. So the mystery remains.

A few vans rolling in late as usual. An early night with a Bourbon and a book.

Day 111 Sunday 13th October 2013   SOD Temp 55 Deg F

Palencia    Aire   N 42 00.260  W 004 32.097

Awake 7 - 40 am. no alarm. We discovered a drip in the shower, the tap must have turned on a little. A couple of wet towels. I heard the pump a little last night and turned it off. A lesson learned.

Had breakfast and watched the day develop, a few vans moving early. The Aire seems to be a good stopping off point on the way North or South, most vans probably are heading South. Snowbirds, away for the winter. We would probably do something similar, but we have too many close family we want to be with, at a special time of year for us.

Now for some reason the Sat Nav has gone to pieces on simple jobs like getting us onto the main road out of town. Again this morning, so I banged it off and we sailed out. Onto the A62 heading for Burgos. Excellent roads had us cruising at 60 mph around Burgos onto the A1 for Vitoria Gasteiz.

We pulled off for some dinner at a little pull in, just after Miranda de Ebro, where we passed the Aire we used when crossing Northern Spain last year. A little restaurant place, nothing seemed to be going on at all. It's amazing how they keep these places open.

Back on the road it was France here we come. I decided to carry on for Biarritz, I had initially planned to stop at Vitoria Gasteiz for the night. The A1 carried us all the way past San Sebastian. Now this is always where the roads get interesting to say the least, same last year. Coming to the border we ended up heading to a Peage to go onto the motorway. Slipping onto the side road we were flagged down by the police. They were running checks on loading and led us to a weigh bridge. A young policeman asked to see my licence and van documents. Why he stopped an English van, I don't know, because he didn't understand the documents at all. I had to show him the information he wanted. He insisted on us weighing the van, after I had informed him where to find the information. We were a little over weight, The van specification needs to be checked out at home. Problems ?

Anyway, he was very nice and advised we were o.k to travel on, seeing we were right on the border heading for France. Not their problem, 5 minutes down the road.

Finally getting onto the road into Biarritz, we rolled into the familiar Aire we had used last year. A few vans making hard work of getting in and parking. I parked in one place, but we had a boom box blasting away in the van alongside us, so I moved to another space. As usual at Biarritz, there is never enough electric points for all the vans, 10 Euros they charge too. So out with my double adaptor and plug in with a French van. Job done and brew on. A couple of English vans on near us.

Patricia did Pasta, while I had a walk to look if there was a shop local. Nothing doing.

Again I express the thought that the Biarritz Aire is popular, but why. The electrics are bad, the water points are abysmal. 10 Euros ? It must be people like ourselves, passing through and convenient, put up with the crap, as they say.

Continued at: In France on the Road to England 2013