Brian and Patricia left England in June 2013
for what became a 105-day motorhome journey. They travelled through
France and Spain to Morocco. Following a 30-day tour of Morocco, they
returned to England, again through Spain and Spain. They give detailed
information on their journey, including co-ordinates, on all the places they
spent a night, specialising in finding informal places to camp.
You can find equally detailed accounts of three
other motorhome journeys they have made in the Fellow
Travellersfeature on this website.
For more information, you can contact the Rudds
at:
Day 105 Monday 7th October 2013SOD Temp 75 Deg F
Ceuta MarinaN 35 53.430W 005 18.831
Alarm on for 7 - 00 am, but we
have been awake for a while, a wind sock on the Marina has been clicking for
ages. Not sure why it clicks, it started during the night. Had breakfast and
watched a couple of Catamarans docking. Two different docking abilitirs it
seemed. The first one seemed to all panic and running around, it bumped the
yacht alongside of it, they didn't get any padding in between the two.
The second one, steered in, tird
up, absolutely spot on, no problem at all. A German family on the first
Catamaran, a little boy sat on his toy car which was on the cross netting
between the two hulls.
The first job is to download
Paulines flight documents from the Ryanaire website. Strolled across to
McDonalds with Pauline, they were closed until 12 - 00 pm, so we sat on the
wall outside and did the job there. Patricia joined us just as we had finished.
I went back to the van to print off the docs, Patricia and Pauline sent into
town for some money and a few groceries. Docs done we had dinner, moved van to
the other side of the Marina, sorted the toilet. Patricia walked back to the
kiosk to pay and tell them to open the big gate for us. 15 Euros paid for one
day. The guy opened the gate, Gracias and we were away to the dock. Easy entry
to the dock, quite clearly signed. We had the last of the Moroccan touts, two
ladies selling bits and pieces. We bought four necklaces and two miniature
slippers, cost two Euros and a pack of biscuits.
We did have 140 Dirhams left, but
we are sending that to the Church in Asilah that we visited when we were there.
We have the ladies address who gave us the little tour around. I think the two
ladies were in competition, they didn't seem to speak to each other at all. The
kiosk finally opened to check our tickets. Not really busy at all. Down to the
waiting area, just one car in front of us.We weren't long before boarding. On time we left Africa, Ceuta and
Morocco behind us. Standing and watching the coast slipping into the haze, the
anticipation of arriving in Africa seemed a long way away. Expectations and
ideas attained from reading, all now replaced by our own impressions and
memories. What a wonderful memorable adventure.
Minimal fuss at Algeciras, the
trucks seemed to have all the attention. Illegal immigrants I would suspect.
One search dog showing little interest in the truck in front of us, it wandered
off. Sat nav set for Lidl car park for overnighting. No other motorhomes there
when we arrived. Shop at Lidl to top up necessities.
McDonalds for tea, they still had
the special off 4 for U on. Four items for 3.90 Euros. Not a bad deal. Wifi
on,mail and news picked up.
When we were last here there was a
guy with a bike and trailer, he seemed to be an alcoholic. He was there again
sat outside of Lidl. Later on he was stood up in the same position for more
than two hours. He has obvious problems. I went to him, he spoke a little
English. A Greek guy, he said he was drinking buthe was ok. We later decided to
see if he wanted something to eat and drink, not alcohol. He wasn't drinking at
all, not that we could see. I tried to get him to sit down and have a drink of
water and something to eat. I cleared his chair, but he wouldn't sit down. He
accepted the biscuits, banana and water, but didn't want the crisp.He saidhe
lived in a tent on the beach.I then
noticed that he had a box that people had been tossing change into. He went
into Lidl later, presumably to spend his collection on some more booze. He
later left pushing his bike and trailer. A sad little incident. Lots of people
had passed him by, as if he was invisible.
Well we're back in Spain, near
McDonalds, so we again have the cars throwing rubbish out of the window. They
really are imbecilic morons, pond life with the brains of ameobas. A sad
example of a bad Spanish attitude.
Off to bed around ten. Had a read
for a while, No drink when we free camp.
Day 106 Tuesday 8th October 2013SOD Temp 75 Deg F
Lidl car parkPalmonesNear AlgecirasW 36 10.919W 005 26.380
Alarm on for 7 - 00 am, but
traffic noise has been quite loud, so we have been awake for a while. Had
breakfast watching the people waiting for Lidl to open. The cleaning lady doing
her morning job, of sweeping up the rubbish left by McDonalds customers.
Looking at the Aires book for
Spain and Portugal, I decided to head for Sanlucar de Barremeda. We are heading
for Seville on Wednesday, so it would make a stopping off place. Onto the A381
a dual carriage way heading to Jerez de la Frontera, where we dropped off onto
the A480. The sat nav taking us straight to the Aire. A large sandy parking
space near the sea and river estuary. Just as we pulled in, a van pulled out,
so we slotted straight in with a sea view.
Had dinner and then a stroll along
the river. There is a walkway and cycle path all along, which eventually runs
out into a dusty dirt road just after a line of restaurants. The sun had come
out with a vengeance, so it was quite warm as we walked. The Palm tree lined
walkway passes a Nautical training centre, further along we saw two stalls
selling bits and pieces. Pauline was looking for a wallet, but the stall holder
wanted too much. Typical tourist prices.
The restaurants were touting us to
come in, but sorry, we are just walking. It does get tedious after a while,
when you can't walk along without being accosted by a pseudo friendly stranger.
A few restaurants were closed, all the tables and umbrellas were stored inside.
Presumably their season is over.
At the end of the good sidewalk,
there is the contrast of new property alongside derelict property and garbage
filled wasteland. Maybe the new properties are holiday lets, but I don't really
fancy spending a holiday alongside a wasteland full of rubbish. But then no
doubt, some do.
Not many people around at all, we
were practically the only ones walking along. Maybe a couple of people on
bikes.
A Brit van alongside us when we
returned. Another Brit van was there when we arrived.
We had lifted the barbecue stuff
out of the freezer before leaving and put it on the top of the van to thaw out.
I set the barbie up for tea. A lovely evening sat with the barbie, Pork,
Chicken, Bratwurst and a small Spanish Sausage, left over from when Marc,
Helena and Lily were with us. There are still some more in the freezer.
Potatoes and salad added the rest of the tea.
Coke mixed with cold water is a
lovely refreshing drink, the water flattens the gas in the coke. A few glasses
with tea. I had a chat with the couple who were here when we arrived. They are
retired, from Exmouth, out for six seeks, they have three weeks left now. I
spoke to the couple in the other Brit van alongside us, but the reaction and
body language of them said, "Look we are miserable buggers, who don't want
to talk to anyone. " It's not hard to read reactions. They, for some
reason didn't want to know. Maybe because the van is filthy with Moroccan dust.
Maybe my hair is too long. Maybe they don't like my "Aging Hippy
Pants", christened by Mike and Heather, who we met in France on another
trip. A decent description I might add. Maybe they are just general miserable
buggers, like the neighbours from hell. We have a few in Wigan, near to where
we live.
The Spanish couple alongside us,
in an unusual van, with what seemed like domestic double glazed windows, stayed
in the van watching television all afternoon. They then livened up and were
quite noisy when it cooled down later.
The walkway alongside the river
livened up also, as the sun went down, teaming with people, walking, running,
cycling, skateboarding, roller skating. Where the hell have they all come from
?It was like a deserted city this
afternoon, the wonders of Siesta.
A lovely sunset, we went out on
the sidewalk to join the throng and get some photographs. I had a couple of
beers while sat out. The Citrus candle we burn to deter midges, ( Does it work
? ) kept blowing out in the wind, so I covered it with a cut off plastic bottle
top, job done. Patent applied for number 1234567. Licensing can be arranged.
The sidewalk provided us with lots
of entertainment, watching all the different people and their approaches to
running, walking etc. Quite a lot out for the exercise. I joked that some gave
the impression of being Storm Troopers on the march. Our unsociable neighbors
were sat in watching tv.
Can't see the point myself, you
can do that all the time at home. A Bourbon and Coke with a book to finish the
day. A good decision was made this morning to come here.
Day 107 Wednesday 9th October 2013 Sanlucar De Barameda SOD Temp 72 Deg F
N 36 47.084W 006 21.561
Awake 7 - 00 am. A quiet night, no
dogs, no Muezzin, no cock crowing, sheer bliss. Just our unsociable neighbor
making some loud grunting noises, when we were having a brew.A beautiful day, quite a lot of people on the
promenade walking and jogging.Had a
chat with our Carl, it's his birthday today. All seems well, that's good.
The usual morning routine for
leaving. I noticed the Spanish guy alongside of us got water from across the
Aire. I still can't see any electric points. We had a chat with him, his father
is American, he said and lives in the States with his brother. He has always
lived in Spain, nowhere else.
Mr. misery and his wife from next
door still not communicating. I had a word with the Brit couple from Exmouth,
they were considering going to Ronda. I mentioned about the Aire north of Ronda
at Olvera. We had the problem getting to it, ending in a front garden. So a
little advice if they see the same road from the sat nav, don't go down it.
Nice couple.
A471 out of town onto the IV to
Seville. The route goes through some quite unexciting country, lots of ploughed
hills and fields, also lots of cotton for miles and miles. Nothing of interest
off the road at all, quite mundane. We stopped at Los Palacios y Villafranca,
no decent parking place, we just squeezed in near a park, across from
industrial units. Quite warm again, the temperature had been climbing. Lots of
busy ants in the sand, making incredible circular doughnut shaped piles of
sand.
We set the sat nav for our
destination, only around 17 miles to go, lots of islands and speed bumps.
The place for the night is a
Caravan and Motor home sales place. They have an Aire also, not picturesque,
but convenient.My eyes are really sore,
not sure why, heat etc. 10 Euros for the night with electric. Lots of space for
parking in a secure compound.
An American couple Chris and
Audrey, his wife pulled in later. They are on a motor home swap trip. He has
damaged the Hymer he has borrowed. A nice couple, very talkative as most
travelling Americans seem to be.
Pauline sorted out her clothes for
flying home tomorrow, her journey is nearly at an end. I had a walk around the
accessory shop on site, all the usual stuff,nothing of interest really.
We power washed the van when the
sun had cooled a little, got most of the Moroccan dust off. We have wi fi here
also, so picked up the news and emails. emails are nearly all advertising, I
will shut the address down when we get home. Chicken, chips and rice for tea.
Sat outside with computer tablet in the cool of the evening. Ready for bed
later with my eyes being sore.
Day 108 Thursday 10th October 2013SOD Temp 72 Deg F
Alcala de GuadairaHidalgo
Dealer Caravan and motor home sales
N 37 19.755W 005 48.329
Awake 7 - 20 am. A quiet night,
heard some dogs and a cockcrow for good
measure. Had breakfast and last minute preparation for Pauline flying home.
Chris and Audrey our American neighbors are leaving also. They are moving to a
campsite near Seville, to enable them to go into town. We had a chat for a
while before they left. Originally from Denver Colorado, they moved to Tucson
Arizona on retiring. They are now spending quite a lot of time travelling,
utilizing motor home exchanges. A lovely American couple, enjoying their
retirement and European history.
We had an early dinner to enable
us to get down to the airport a little early. After dropping Pauline off we had
around 150 miles to drive. Sat nav set, we found the departures easily. No
problem, Pauline dropped off, hugs and kisses and we were off. It's nearly the
end of her little adventure.
Sat nav put us on the A66 heading
North. A really good road which enabled us to make good time. Nothing of any
real note or interest out of the window to report. We stopped for a break and a
coffee around 50 miles from Caceres. Pulling onto a side road and parking near
some newly planted vines.
The roads are good but there are
not many Aires or service places immediately accessible from the road. Not a
lot of traffic on the road, on some sections just us for miles and miles.
Caceres is quite a big place, the
local area is named after it, so it must be the centre of administration
locally. The Aire was full when we arrived, a van just pulling in before us. So
we looped around the car park and pulled in under some trees near the little
cafe adjacent to the Aire. There was already one Spanish van there, also a big
dog chained to a tree. The lady in the van moved the dog, to enable us to get
in.
I had a walk to find a local shop
for some onions for tea. I found one around 150 yards across the main road
which passes the Aire. It seems a popular Aire, we had several more vans arrive
and park near us later, one a Brit couple with a Spanish reg Swift Kontiki. He
bought it on E Bay he said.
Mushroom omelette for tea, quite
ready for it too, after the early dinner, we followed with cheese and crackers.
We had a lovely entertainment all
night, the local brass band was rehearsing upstairs in the building adjacent to
us, the cafe is on the ground floor. A good selection of Spanish band tunes,
rehearsing beginnings and endings mainly. I was quite familiar with most of the
tunes. Quite loud, but enjoyable.
Children had been using the nearby
play area earlier, but dispersed when it went dark, even though the area is
well lit. Our Spanish lady parked alongside of us, who seemed to be alone, went
out somewhere for a few minutes leaving her door open on the van. Her dog gave
a wonderful display of whining and howling for her. It had been quiet up to
then, it stopped when she returned. A quiet night on our own now after Paulines
departure. A read and off to sleep, our journey home well under way now.
Day 109 Friday 11th October 2013SOD Temp 66 Deg F
CaceresN 39 28.850W 006 21.978
Alarm on for 7 - 00 am. A quiet
and peaceful night. Awake just before the alarm with a little local noise.
Our Spanish lady has gone already,
an early starter. The seasons are showing a little now, dew on the grass this
morning, the first I have noticed for a while.
Well satellite Simon played up
this morning wanting to take us into narrow streets, when all we wanted was the
road out of Caceres. We eventually get there with me having to keep over riding
its commands.
A66 heading north, again a good
road. We passed a couple of lakes that looked like they had been created by
dams. Slowly climbing with some quite steep sections for a motorway type of
road. We also saw two bridges alongside the road being constructed.I think they were for railway, quite large
projects so close to the A66 didn't make sense to be road bridges. But then
again, we are in Spain, they seem to build roads for fun.
The miles rolled by, nothing of
any major interest as we passed by. Rolling hills change to mountains slowly as
we climb. Patricia decided to do a little knitting. Only around 130 miles for
todays run. We have commented that in Spain, they build lots of roads, but
don't supply rest places or Aires. So imagine our surprise when we spotted one,
let's get in and have some dinner. A nice quiet spot. A lady in a car near us
was bending down and touching her toes, she was then trying to get her guy to
touch his, he got to a ninety degree bend and that was it. Me, people watching,
to pass the time.
Satellite Simon led us straight to
the Aire for tonight, an English van parked there when we arrived. We searched
out the services, which weren't immediately obvious. It seems that some local
authorities play hunt the services with motor homers, you are told there are
services, but you have to spend some time finding them.
Eventually with my Sherlock Holmes
hat on I found them, a grey water grid that had to be lifted to reveal the
toilet disposal vent. Water was in a grid near this, a valve releasing an
upright fountain of water, not really helpful without hoses and fittings, the
pipe was just round metal no fitting at all.
Later I noticed a young local guy
across the car park, with a tap washing and drinking at a concrete block. I
wandered over to explore. The block had a hole at the front where a tap should
be, behind the block was a 6 inch square metal door near the ground, with a
fitting for locking it. Inside this door was a valve to turn the water on. None
of this could be seen from the parking area at all. See what I mean, playing
games. A simple notice would have helped.
I filled a bottle with water and
strolled over to the English couple who were sat on a bench in the sun. They
greeted me with "Holah". “No Holah needed here, I'm English”. “What
from Yorkshire”. “No Lancashire”. “Oh that's alright then”.
We had a chat for a while. They
were from Sheffield and Chesterfield. Sailed into Santander bound for Portugal,
now on their way home. A van from Holland came in a little later.
Patricia spent some time changing
the beds. I spent some time killing flies. Where they came from and how they
got in the van is a mystery. But the most we have had, even more than Morocco.
Maybe we are in the Fly centre of Spain.
Steak, potatoes and peas for tea,
followed by cheese and crackers. A read for a while, having a quiet hour. The
evening cooled down to around 64 Deg F before we got off to bed.
The plan is to get across Spain
into France, where we will have a few visiting days, we have more info in the
van on France, so can plan better stops and visits hopefully.
Day 110Saturday 12th October
2013SOD Temp 48 Deg F
El EncinarAireNear SalamancaN 40 52.806W 005 34.947
Alarm on for 7 - 00 am, but
knocked it off and had another hour. The temperature had plummeted this
morning, getting us adjusted to a return to England, 48 Deg F on rising, I
think it's the coldest morning I have recorded on this trip. We are at over
3,000 ft though, which will make it a little cooler. Maybe it will warm as we
go lower heading North. A real Autumn feel in the air, weak sun shining through
the Olive trees in front of us. Dew on the grass. We're even noticing the
deciduous trees changing their colors.
I put a pair of socks on this
morning, the first time for months. Also my multicolored coat. It was slow
warming up this morning also. But all in all, out of the van, it was a lovely,
cool, sunny October day.
The couple from Yorkshire turned
out to be Geoff and Mary. They called in to say goodbye after they had done
toilet and water. A nice simple gesture. We always try to speak to people we
have met before we leave. A simple courtesy. They have around a week before
their prebooked ferry date. I think they are going back from Santander.A nice
couple enjoying their travels,walking
and cycling.Patricia was in the
bathroom, so didn't get to speak to them.
Mary reminded me a little of Jo, who we met on
a trip in France, travelling down with Eddie her partner.
Toilet and water done, we got on
our way. Backtracking a little on the road we came in on and then an un
numbered road for around 6 miles, across the farmers fields, taking us to the
A66, where we again pointed north.
A66 around Salamanca, then pick up
the A62. This road was not as well surfaced as the A66. Especially near
Salamanca. We have noticed that the surface of the road changes at the boundary
line from area to area. Maybe each area has its responsibility to surface the
road. Well obviously Salamanca don't have it highly prioritized.
There are a few more pull in stops
and Aires along the road now we are getting in Northern Spain. We spotted one
around 25 miles from Palencia. It was a Cepsa station. They sold bread and we
discovered amazingly, that they had wi fi.
A long dinner catching up with
mail, news etc. A Spanish van pulled in near us.
The last 25 miles done, we rolled
into Palencia. We spotted a Mercadona it was closed. Then a Carrefour, it was
closed. Saturday afternoon ?Is it a
holiday. We got the feeling it was. The roads were quiet in town.
First impressions of Palencia was
it seemed a nice neat and tidy town. Enhanced by the Aire when we arrived, a
well marked out and organized one. The best marked out we have seen in Spain. A
local park opposite, with walks and ducks quacking. Two Brit vans on when we
arrived. We had a brew and then a walk to find a shop. We spoke to one of the
guys from the nearest Brit van, an Autotrail. He had used the Aire several
times on his yearly sojourn to Portugal. He said there was a small supermarket
local. He also said, "you must have plenty money," in response to me
telling him we were driving home from Morocco. "Why don't you fly ? A 25
quid flight from Faro and we're home" O.k if your going back to the same
place I suppose. He had obviously attended night school in diplomacy. I suggest
he failed his exams.
Strolling around town we asked two
policemen, who were in deep conversation with a lady, who obviously worked for
Debenhams, she had most of the makeup stall on her face. Where could we find a
cash machine ? Pointed in the right direction, we found it. 100 Euros
extracted. We also found the small supermarket. I would call it a shop.
All the bars were open, but no
other shops except this one, which was run by a Chinese couple. People seemed
to be dressed up also strolling around. We were sure it was a holiday of some
kind. But, Saturday ?
Back at the van, Patricia did what
we in Wigan call Lobbies. Potatoe, onion, beef, carrots all cooked together. It
was a Lobby day, the coolest for a long time.
While washing up later, several
policemen arrived at the Aire, they seemed to have been brought by a van owner.
We initially thought, maybe a break in. But their focus seemed to be on a guy
in a German reg van near us. Quizzing him and asking for his passport. I asked
them what was the problem, but they said, no problem, as policemen usually do.
So the mystery remains.
A few vans rolling in late as
usual. An early night with a Bourbon and a book.
Day 111 Sunday 13th October 2013SOD Temp 55 Deg F
PalenciaAireN 42 00.260W 004 32.097
Awake 7 - 40 am. no alarm. We
discovered a drip in the shower, the tap must have turned on a little. A couple
of wet towels. I heard the pump a little last night and turned it off. A lesson
learned.
Had breakfast and watched the day
develop, a few vans moving early. The Aire seems to be a good stopping off
point on the way North or South, most vans probably are heading South.
Snowbirds, away for the winter. We would probably do something similar, but we
have too many close family we want to be with, at a special time of year for
us.
Now for some reason the Sat Nav
has gone to pieces on simple jobs like getting us onto the main road out of
town. Again this morning, so I banged it off and we sailed out. Onto the A62
heading for Burgos. Excellent roads had us cruising at 60 mph around Burgos
onto the A1 for Vitoria Gasteiz.
We pulled off for some dinner at a
little pull in, just after Miranda de Ebro, where we passed the Aire we used
when crossing Northern Spain last year. A little restaurant place, nothing
seemed to be going on at all. It's amazing how they keep these places open.
Back on the road it was France
here we come. I decided to carry on for Biarritz, I had initially planned to
stop at Vitoria Gasteiz for the night. The A1 carried us all the way past San
Sebastian. Now this is always where the roads get interesting to say the least,
same last year. Coming to the border we ended up heading to a Peage to go onto
the motorway. Slipping onto the side road we were flagged down by the police.
They were running checks on loading and led us to a weigh bridge. A young
policeman asked to see my licence and van documents. Why he stopped an English
van, I don't know, because he didn't understand the documents at all. I had to
show him the information he wanted. He insisted on us weighing the van, after I
had informed him where to find the information. We were a little over weight,
The van specification needs to be checked out at home. Problems ?
Anyway, he was very nice and
advised we were o.k to travel on, seeing we were right on the border heading
for France. Not their problem, 5 minutes down the road.
Finally getting onto the road into
Biarritz, we rolled into the familiar Aire we had used last year. A few vans
making hard work of getting in and parking. I parked in one place, but we had a
boom box blasting away in the van alongside us, so I moved to another space. As
usual at Biarritz, there is never enough electric points for all the vans, 10
Euros they charge too. So out with my double adaptor and plug in with a French
van. Job done and brew on. A couple of English vans on near us.
Patricia did Pasta, while I had a
walk to look if there was a shop local. Nothing doing.
Again I express the thought that
the Biarritz Aire is popular, but why. The electrics are bad, the water points
are abysmal. 10 Euros ? It must be people like ourselves, passing through and
convenient, put up with the crap, as they say.