Next morning we cycled into Finikounda (3 km each way) to enjoy a 'Full English Breakfast', as advertised all week on a blackboard outside the Medusa Cafι. It promised “Fresh Juice, Croissant, Coffee, Bacon & Egg, Toast & Marmalade” - all for €6. It seemed too good to be true and so it was. The board still stood at the door but it was firmly locked at 9.45 am on a Saturday morning. Being Greece, there was naturally no indication of when, or if, the place would open.

We resigned ourselves to a late breakfast of porridge and bananas back in the caravan before preparing to move on the next day to Gythion. In the evening we had a farewell meal of roast chicken at 'To Karavi', our favourite taverna in Finikounda.

Finikounda to Camping Gythion Bay, Gythion – 106 miles

Open all year. www.gythiocamping.gr. ACSI rate €16 inc 16 amp elec and showers. Free WiFi in the common room and pool area only.  N 36.72913 E 22.54519

On a warm sunny day we left Camping Finikes after almost 2 months, our comfortable spring hibernation over. We set out via Pylos, thankfully quiet round the central square on a Sunday morning (not a route to take with a caravan/motorhome on Saturday which is market day, when the place is heaving and double-parked, even outside the police station!) The Pylos-Kalamata road twists and climbs, reaching over 1,000 ft after 21 miles at Soulinari (the base for Barry's recent Birthday Ride). Then more gradually down for 9 miles to Rizomilos, where it joins the coastal road from Petalidi. (The coastal route to this point is only one mile shorter from Finikounda and more awkward for large vehicles in places – especially on Fridays, Petalidi's market day!)

On through Messini, past Lidl (closed on Sundays) and Kalamata Airport, then turn right (left is for Sparta) at 40 miles in Kalamata itself. To avoid the port, follow signs for 'Mani, Areopoli' which lead along a road parallel to the busy sea front, joining it after 5 miles. Pass Camping Faro on the left (sadly, a tiny site with awkward access), then turn right for Areopoli at 46 miles.

Now begins the first of three serious ascents along the beautiful Messinian Gulf Road – 60 slow and dramatic miles to Gythion. We have travelled this route several times, including twice during circular cycle tours of the Peloponnese, and it continues to impress. In the first 7 miles out of Kalamata the quiet road climbs away from the coast, twisting up to 925 ft/280 m, then dropping down to a bridge spanning a gorge at 660 ft/200 m. Up again through Kambos, a busy little village with a ruined tower and quaint old church; still climbing to Stavropigi (1,120 ft/340 m) and on to the view point at 60 miles. The sea lay clear and blue 1,435 ft/435 m below on our right, while the snow-streaked Taigetos Mountains reared up on the left.

A 5-mile serpentine descent, past Prosilio village, zigzagged to sea level in picturesque Kardamili. Sadly, there was nowhere to pause along the narrow road through the village and we drove on past Stoupa at 70 miles, a small resort that has spawned hillsides of new concrete 'holiday homes' and pseudo stone tower-houses to blight the landscape of the Outer Mani. After Ag Nikolaos, a mile later, the road climbs again through a series of tiny hamlets, each with a lovely little old church, some ruined, some restored. First is Pigi at 725 ft/220 m, then Platsa at 1,120 ft/340 m, Nomitsi at 1,485 ft/450 m, culminating in Thalames at 1,515 ft/460 m. Thalames at 78 miles has a cafι, springs, seating under a shady plane tree, a small private Mani Museum and a man selling mountain herbs and honey – but the only possible parking space for us was already taken.

The road continues for a mile to Langada (1,390 ft/421 m), a village with a beautiful old church and a cafι or two, though again no chance of parking anything but a small car. Then a steady descent, down through the narrow stone-walled village of Ag Nikon (1,190 ft/360 m ), across the border from Messinia into Lakonia at 84 miles (1,100 ft/333 m), with a grand view of the extensive walls of Kelefa Castle at Itilo on the left 3 miles later, at 595 ft/180 m.

After a 90-mile journey we parked on the waterfront at the tiny sleepy fishing port of Neo Itilo and took a short walk by the shore. The Black Pirate fish taverna was open for Sunday lunch, with octopus tentacles hanging on a line outside and lobsters skulking at the bottom of a stone trough, filled with sea water. We were content with a sardine sandwich, opening all the caravan windows to catch a sea breeze as it was 30 deg C inside.

The final climb of the day was up to Areopoli, gaining 860 ft/260 m in under 4 miles. This little town is the capital of the Mani, its character not yet spoilt by tourism – and there is a large area where you can freely park as you turn to join the main road which heads east. This road climbs for another 3 miles to 1,085 ft/329 m, then gradually descends to the coast just before Gythion.

There are 3 campsites on the old road along the shore on the right, 2 or 3 miles before Gythion. The second one, Gythion Bay, is the only one offering ACSI Card rates and is probably the best – though that's saying very little! Driving in along the access lane overhung by unpruned olive trees was an obstacle course, with low branches a great hazard to anything bigger than a car and tent. Complaints fell on deaf ears, the owner regarding it as an olive grove/orange orchard rather than a campsite. To make matters worse, a French convoy  had taken all the more accessible places (how sad to need to enter Greece in convoy – we thought that was the prerogative of the Germans in 1941).  An new EU-funded ornamental 'swimming pool' now occupies what little open space there once was, displacing the former games area and the sea-front pitches where larger outfits used to park! We squeezed our caravan over a kerb and under the trees with difficulty and minimised driving in and out, not wishing to dent the VW on the ever-encroaching olive branches.

At Gythion

We found the WiFi (only in the common room/pool area) very intermittent and the beach unpleasantly gritty. During our 4-day stay we saw no-one use the pool, which is not really deep enough for swimming. It is surrounded by lush green lawns, while campers have a lumpy field of uncut weeds under low trees. A French camper who complained about his pitch was told that all the grass is cut every week: an obvious lie. The new toilets and showers are an improvement (anything would be) but do not make up for the unkempt state of the site.

The campsite restaurant only opened on one evening, supplying the French convoy with overpriced moussaka and Greek salad, so we didn't join them.

The port of Gythion is only 3 miles away, though the route is along a busy road over a low headland. We wandered round the town and out to the lighthouse (not open to the public) and found that the seasonal ferry to Crete (Kissamos) that we once took still runs weekly, on Wednesday afternoons.

The weather was extremely windy throughout our stay (there is a windsurfing school adjacent), so at least the laundry dried quickly and there was no shortage of trees to fix a series of short lines!

A Hard Cycle Ride in the Mani

Two years ago we had a circular ride from this campsite on Margaret's birthday, via Areopoli and Kotronas, returning absolutely soaked through. We shall never forget it (nor the meal Viv and Al had ready for us)! To vary the route a little, we now decided to drive 12 miles, park in Areopoli (at 860 ft/260 m) and cycle a circuit from there. With a good weather forecast ('dry, light winds') we packed a lunch and set out. 'Dry' proved to be true but the wind soon gathered into a formidable handicap. All the lanes were very quiet and sealed, though none were level.

Areopoli to Kotronas via Chimara (16 km) – South from Areopoli on the main road that circuits the Mani, turning off left after 2 km to leave any tourist traffic behind as we climbed to the tiny villages of Pirichos and Chimara. Then a steep drop down and down to the coast at Kotronas on the east side of the narrow Mani peninsula. We ate our picnic by the little harbour, watched over by the statue of a proud sea captain (1882-1960): a splendid figure with Balkan moustache, cloak and boots, a rifle slung over his shoulder and binoculars round his neck. After coffees from the small taverna we felt good to go, though the wind was getting stronger.

Kotronas to Areopoli via Drosopigi (28 km) – On round the headland, climbing the empty coast road above Skoutari Bay: fantastic sea views, blue on blue, bypassing Skoutari on a scarcely used new road. Rather than continuing to meet the Gythion road (as previously), we turned off left signed Parasyros. The relentlessly steep lane bypassed that village, as we climbed and climbed and sometimes walked, pushing into a gathering head wind that had definitely not been forecast! This route cut over the hilltops to Drosopigi, which at 1,390 ft/420 m is over 500 ft higher than Areopoli. One or two of its houses had been restored, including a taverna (closed). The ruins of the little shop/post office were poignant, with a black & white calendar for 1956 still hanging on the crumbling wall. At last we had a steep descent, through Vachos, to join the main road from Gythion at 39 km, for one last climb along to Areopoli and our waiting van. The total ride of 44 km and about 2,500 ft of climbing had taken over 6 hours, a good measure of how strenuous the day was.

See our pictures at: http://www.magbazpictures.com/areopoli-cycle-ride.html

Gythion to Camping Castle View, Mistras, Sparta – 31 miles (alt 915 ft/278 m)

Open 1 April-20 Oct. www.castleview.gr. €23 inc 16 amp elec and showers. Free WiFi by restaurant only (hardly working). N 37.06941 E 22.38163

It was a relief to extract the caravan from Gythion Bay Camping unscathed, running the gauntlet of olive branches. The Receptionist 'noted our complaint'. We turned west towards Areopoli, then onto the new Gythion bypass at Marathea, which took us north on the main road that gently climbs to Sparta. There is a Lidl store on the left after about 24 miles.

The centre of Sparta is a grid pattern of narrow streets and right angle turns, with parked cars on all sides. Both the campsites are west of the city, near the medieval site of Mistras. The easiest route is to turn left by a Shell station (signed 'Mistras, Kalamata') just before the city centre and follow 'Mistras'.

We passed the first campsite, Paleologio, on the left behind its petrol station and continued another mile to Castle View on the right. This site does indeed have a magnificent view of the pinnacle fortress, below which the ruins of Mistras tumble down the hillside. The French convoy we'd encountered at Gythion Bay Camp had just left!

The owner, who had quoted €23 a night on the telephone and assured us he had “WiFi, yes, it is free” was temporarily absent, so we settled into a corner of the almost empty site. On his return he looked at our caravan/van combination and decided he should charge €27, though we only occupied one pitch! After protracted argument and threats to leave, he gradually came down to €23, with ill humour, insisting it was 'normal' to charge extra for such as us. Who might that be?

The site is in a small orange/olive grove but at least the trees are trimmed and the facilities adequate. There is a swimming pool (drained empty) and a small restaurant/bar, outside which the WiFi worked slowly and intermittently on our first day – then vanished.

The Fortress-State of Medieval Mystras

Next morning we walked the half-mile into Mistras village, a cluster of cafιs, rooms and a shop or two. There is a generous car park on the way in, outside a new Camera Museum, though signs threaten fines and even imprisonment for overnight camping.

Our unhelpful campsite host had claimed there was always a taxi waiting outside the Hotel Byzantio to take visitors up to historic Mystras. There was none, though a friendly woman in the mini-market offered to ring for a taxi from Sparta. To quote from the local 'Tourist Guide to the Municipality of Mystras': “The access to all the public departments is easy for those who have their own mean of transportation.”  We walked back to the campsite to get our van, a much better option.

Brief History: In 1249 William II of Villehardouin, the Frankish ruler of Achaea (we came across him at Chlemoutsi Castle near Kyllinis), built a fortress atop the naturally-fortified hill of Myzithra (or Mystras). It fell to the Byzantine Emperor, Michael Paliologos, in 1262 and the hillside developed into a walled fortress-state of great importance, taking over administration of the province from Monemvasia in 1289. In 1389 Mystras was made capital of the new Despotate of Morea, responsible for the whole Peloponnese. With a population reaching 20,000, it had churches and fortified monasteries, mansions and palaces, becoming a leading spiritual and cultural centre closely connected with the imperial family in Constantinople. Eastern Byzantium fell to the Turks in 1453, leaving Mystras the capital of the last Byzantine stronghold. It was finally subjugated by the Turks 7 years later, after which the castle-state was abandoned and fell into ruin. In 1687 it was taken over by the Venetians, recaptured by the Turks in 1715, then freed during the Greek Revolution, only to be burned down by Egyptian forces (under the Ottoman Empire) in 1825.  The foundation of New Sparta in 1834 marked the end of Mystras City. In 1921 the Greek State declared it a Byzantine Monument to be preserved, followed by World Heritage recognition in 1989. Restoration continues.  See UNESCO, Wikipedia or Rough Guide websites for more detail.

The extensive site of Mystras is now open daily 8 am-8 pm and has two entrances: the Main Gate at the bottom of the steep hillside and the Fortress Gate at the end of a winding lane, about half way up. Tickets (€6 or €3 for Seniors, including leaflet in Greek and English) are valid all day and there is a free car park near each gate. We parked at the upper Fortress Gate (3 miles from campsite, up at 1,650 ft/500 m) from where it was still a stiff climb up a rocky track to the impressive ruins of Mystras Castle and its watch tower, perched on a crag in the eastern foothills of the Taigetos. We had breathtaking views over the well watered vale of Sparta, ringed by mountains on three sides - a patchwork quilt of greens, its squares made up of olive groves and orange orchards, with a dense white splash of tall concrete buildings clustered in the centre.

Just beneath the Fortress Gate, in the middle section of the city inside a curtain wall, we looked into one of the many churches, Agia Sofia, founded by the first Despot of Mystras (1348-1380) and used by the monastery at the time. The partly preserved frescoes (with colours based on plant dyes, egg yolk and gold) include a monumental scene of Christ. There is hardly any role for the 'Virgin Mary' in Byzantium, in contrast with the Roman church. Below, past the Church of Agios Nikolaos, the Despot's Palace stands on a level expanse of the hillside. It's a large complex, early 15th C, dominated by the throne room.

As it was starting to rain, we drove back to the campsite, well satisfied with the climb to the citadel. Easier access to the other Byzantine churches and a museum, within the outer wall, is via the Main Gate (though you can walk down from the upper level). We might have returned after lunch to explore this lower level but thunder rumbled as the rain closed in.

See our pictures at: http://www.magbazpictures.com/byzantine-mystras.html

The WiFi wasn't working but our host just shrugged, blaming the weather. (As ever!)

Mistras to Camping Paleologio, Paleologio, Sparta – 1 mile (725 ft/alt 220 m)

Open all year. €20 inc 16 amp elec and showers. Good free WiFi in the bar/cafe area only.  N 37.0716 E 22.4049

Next morning the WiFi at Castle View Camping was still down. At first our spookily hostile host said to wait a few minutes for it to come on. When we threatened to leave, he said a man was coming to fix it “soon” (on a Sunday morning?) Tired of his games we left, moving a mile or so down the road to Paleologio, a simpler and cheaper site. It may lack hot water (unless the sun shines) but it is definitely friendlier!

We were welcomed with a big smile by gentle Peter, who remembered our visits many years ago when he ran the campsite/cafι/petrol station with his late father. Born in Canada, Peter speaks both English and French. The site is level and grassy, with plenty of space under the orange trees. There is a good swimming pool (not yet filled), the WiFi works reliably at the covered seating by the bar, and the laundry has a new washing machine and drier. The only negative is that the toilets and showers (best described as long overdue for replacement) are reminiscent of a prison block, except that none of the doors lock! We settled into a corner of the site, shared for the most part with Bernard, a long-term campingcariste from Paris, and relaxed – something that was quite impossible at the last two camps!

A Short Walk from Parori

Parori (meaning 'beside a mountain') is a tiny village 1 km south of Mistras. In the centre, by a row of gushing fountains (the Keramos Springs) under shady plane trees, a pleasant taverna is open from 7 pm weekdays, and for lunch (until 5 pm only) at weekends. Its speciality is live trout, alongside the usual Greek fare.

A track from Parori is signed to the Cave Chapel Panagia Lagkadiotisa (a 15-minute walk), then the path continues along the gorge to a footbridge by Sotiris Church, where it joins the cobbled footpath linking Mystra with Faneromini Monastery. Recalling the interesting grotto and the spectacular gorge walk to Sotiris that we completed years ago, we set off from Parori with boots and sticks for an afternoon's ramble, starting with an uphill 5-minute walk to a disused quarry in the rock face. Beyond that point the narrow path of stones and gravel had deteriorated, with an unguarded 50-metre fall on our right into the Apothetes Ravine - where the ancient Spartans left any weakling babies to die! Sadly we considered the path too eroded and the drop too dangerous, so we turned back. We had had a reminder of the stunning ravine, cleft through towering orange-grey cliffs, and the forces of nature that were reclaiming the pilgrims' path.

Cycling from Camping Paleologio, nr Sparta

1. Mountain Riding: from Paleologio via Ag Ioannis, climb to Anavriti and on to Faneromini Monastery, and return (34 km and about 2,400 ft of climbing) – Into Mistras (3 km west) to buy pies from the bakery, then south through Parori to the larger village of Ag Ioannis (at 7 km). From there a hairpin road winds its way up the eastern flank of the Taigetos to the mountain village of Anavriti – a favourite cycle climb that we aimed to repeat. The road is well graded and we rode the zigzags, pausing at the major bends to take in and photograph the spectacular view of the road snaking down to the plain of Sparta. The 8-km ascent (climbing over 2,000 ft) ends in quaint Anavriti, mountain water streaming down its cobbled lanes. The only cafe provided coffee and glasses of spring water to go with our cheese & spinach pies, sitting in the sunshine up at 2,805 ft/850 m. Refreshed, we rode north for another 2 km (1 km uphill, 1 km down) to the substantial gates of Faneromini, a working monastery, to sit in the shade with a banana and watch a lone hiker trudge by.

We'd reached the end of the bitumen at the monastery and knew, from previous rides, that the roughly cobbled track (part of the E4 long-distance footpath) now wound steeply downhill to a bridge across the gorge by the Sotiris church, then climbed hard up to Mystras. A shorter but much more difficult route than simply retracing our steps – nor did we know what state the track might be in, in view of our recent walk from Parori. So we returned to Anavriti to enjoy a 5-mile freewheel down the serpentine road to Ag Ioannis, then back to Paleologio. Only a cyclist can imagine (let alone describe) that glorious feeling of controlled brake-testing descent down a smooth mountain road, devoid of traffic. It is addictive and the Peloponnese is the perfect place to indulge in the pleasure.  

See our pictures at: http://www.magbazpictures.com/anavriti-cycle-ride.html

2. Easy Riding: from Paleologio via Ag Ioannis to Anogia, and return (33 km) – There is a maze of extremely quiet lanes, running between orange orchards and olive groves, that link the tiny villages that lie to the south of Mistras and west of the main Sparta-Gythion road. With only gentle climbs and regular cafes, they provide easy peaceful cycling for an hour or two, turning back whenever you want. There are very few signs, so a map, compass or GPS (or better still, all three) are needed!

One of several such easy routes was a morning ride via Mistras, Parori and Ag Ioannis, continuing south past the site of an ancient temple to Demeter (just a few stones) and on to Anogia (16 km), a village with a choice of 3 cafes! At the first we tried, by the church, the barman told us that the woman who did coffee had just gone out to see to some paperwork but would be back soon! How we love Greece. Success at the second cafι, by a war memorial, just as a heavy shower began. By the time we had drunk the coffee and donned our waterproofs, the rain had stopped! On the way back to Mistras the roads quickly dried out and we paused only to buy a loaf at the bakery. Home to lunch on chicken sandwiches. Can't believe that no-one else is doing this, short easy riding with a backdrop of the Taigetos range, splendid weather, no traffic, lovely little stone Byzantine churches, friendly folk, lizards and tortoises crossing the road at very different speeds …

3. Hard Riding: From Paleologio via Magoula, Logastra and Soustiani, return via Karavas and Magoula (36 km and about 1,900 ft of climbing) – A clockwise circular ride to the north of Paleologio, with some long climbs in the shadow of the Taigetos. From Paleologio we rode briefly east, turned left into Magoula, then took the road northwest through the village of Ag Irini to Logastra – 8 km from the campsite and uphill all the way, climbing over 1,000 ft (from 220 m to 525 m, or about 725 ft to 1,730 ft). The cafι owner rewarded us with large coffees and iced 'mountain water', sitting in the garden, for a total of €2 (well off the tourist trail here!). He was very friendly, once assured that we were not German. We had the usual conversation: 'No, we're not from London. The North, near Manchester.' 'Ah, Manchester United, very good.' More climbing and wonderful scenery from Logastra to Soustiani, the next village and high point of the ride, at 2,145 ft/650 m.

On through Lopesi, on empty lanes across rolling country until, at 18 km near Serveika, we met the road from Kastoria. There was a handy picnic shelter at this junction, the half-way point, still above 1,300 ft at 400 m, for a snack with a wonderful view. Then southeast, dropping down towards Sparta. A racing cyclist, the first we'd seen in these parts, overtook us with a cheery shout of 'Ya Sas' (= Health to You, plural). 'Ya Soo' (the singular version) we replied, but he was gone! Traffic was light on the 13 km descent via Karavas, then we avoided the centre of Sparta by turning right at the hospital sign and finding our way on back lanes to Magoula and home. It was a beautiful ride through small villages, not abandoned but full of life of every age. The inhabitants were out spraying olive trees, tending bees, hanging out washing, chatting in the cafes, waiting at bus stops – all with a friendly wave for these two ancient cyclists, fuelled by home-made lemon squash, muesli bars and caramel toffees (beats any 'energy drink')! We were back at the campsite before 2 pm, seeking shade from the high afternoon sun.  

A drive via Kosmas to Leonidio (52 miles), a Cycle Ride from Leonidio to Elonis Monastery and back, then return drive to Sparta

On a sunny morning we began by driving 34 miles, via Sparta and Goritsa, across the Lakonia/Arkadia border and up to the splendid mountain village of Kosmas at 3,745 ft/1135 m. We parked behind the central church, where a villager rinsed the dust off her car at the gushing springs and Barry washed our windscreen. A magical place for coffee with a view. Walking round the square we saw the oldest of the shady plane trees bore a brass plaque for its centenary (1983), the cafes were busy and the souvenir shops open. The little hotel/restaurant 'Maleatis Apollon' had happy memories of a welcome night stop on more than one cycle tour we had made.

The onward road descending to Leonidio, at sea level on the east coast of the Peloponnese, is much steeper, hairpinning precipitously for the first 8 miles to the Elonis Monastery, clamped onto the cliff side at 1,740 ft/527 m. The route then sweeps down well-graded zigzags and through a gorge for a further 10 miles to Leonidio. On entering the long narrow town, we turned right (at the caravan-route sign) to bypass the chaos of the centre. There is plenty of parking space after the turn, alongside the dry river bed or across the bridge. Even today on market day (Saturday) we had no problem, parking outside the old DOY (vehicle registration office). A home-made banner still hung from the upper storey, which translates as 'No to the closure of the Leonidio DOY'. The building was shuttered and long deserted. We walked the length of the narrow and busy main street in search of lunch - coffee, toast and omelettes in a lovely traditional cafι/bar – before setting off to cycle back up the gorge.

4. Cycle climb from Leonidio to the Elonis Monastery, and return (31 km and about 1,800 ft of climbing) – Riding out of Leonidio, past the monument to the fallen Civil War heroes of January 1949, we soon left the traffic behind. We climbed gradually up the impressively wild gorge, alongside the dry course of the Dafnon River, until eventually we glimpsed our goal - the white buildings of the Elonis Monastery clinging to the rock face high above. Onward and upward, scaling zigzags once the road left the river, we finally arrived at the Monastery. It still operates as a convent, open to visitors, with a new small car park and toilets at the entrance. A stall outside sold honey and mountain herbs, while inside there was a religious souvenir shop, manned by a monk who handed out the traditional Loukoumi (don't call it Turkish Delight!) Barry watched over the bicycles while M went round with the camera (though no photos were allowed inside the venerable old church housing the miraculous icon that was found on the nearby mountainside!) The site and the view are certainly spectacular, whatever our beliefs.

The return ride, swooping 10 miles down to Leonidio, took less than an hour – much faster than the ascent. As we paused to rest our brake-fingers on the way back, a local man on a small motorbike stopped to ask if we needed water - typical Greek kindness.

See our pictures at: http://www.magbazpictures.com/leonidio-cycle-ride.html

With the cycles safely stowed in the van, we drove back the way we had come: up to Kosmas and down to Sparta. A very satisfying day, which we rounded off with an excellent wood-fired pizza and salad in Sparta's Business Pizzeria, an old favourite (eat in or take away). 

A Drive to Monemvasia, a night away in Hotel Annema, Palia Monemvasia (50 miles) and a circular Cycle Ride over an 855 m Pass

Monday morning and Spring Bank Holiday in England, with reports of record traffic jams. Terrible rain and floods in Bosnia and Serbia, where the overflowing River Sava (tributary of the Danube) forms the border.  How lucky we are to be here in the Peloponnese, with sunny weather and empty roads.

Leaving the caravan at Camping Paleologio, we drove from Sparta via Skala to the Byzantine fortress and town of Monemvasia, where a magnificent ruined castle crowns the island fastness above the Upper Town. There is free parking (popular with motorhomes) by the harbour in Gefira, or more limited space just across the short causeway that replaced a 14-arch bridge to Monemvasia's Lower Town in the early 19th C. We parked over the causeway to eat a picnic, then walked half a kilometre past a continuous line of parked cars to the archway and into the pedestrianised lanes of Monemvasia (meaning 'Only Entrance').

The main cobbled street, thronged with tourists, was lined with souvenir shops and up-market cafes, bars and restaurants, but we only needed to turn off down the warren of side alleys to find ourselves alone and able to take in the medieval atmosphere and clear blue sea views. To leave the crowds well behind, we took the steep path to the Upper Town: flights of rough steps, followed by a winding track of cobbles, worn dangerously smooth over the centuries. Stout shoes, a stick and a dry day are needed. The dwellings and churches of the Upper Town are mostly in ruins, with some renovations underway. Reaching the gates of the castle on the acropolis, we found entrance was barred 'for restoration' – of which there was no sign - but it was still worth the climb for the view over Monemvasia Bay.

Down in the Lower Town, we cooled off with ice cream in a shady cafι and considered finding a room, in order to cycle locally the next day. Our SatNav listed several hotels in Monemvasia itself (expensive) or Gefira (noisy), with a single entry for Palia Monemvasia, a tiny coastal village just 7 miles north, which we went to inspect. What a find! At Hotel Annema (www.annemahotel.com), a modern family-run hotel/restaurant, we had a lovely en-suite room on the first floor with TV, fridge and a balcony overlooking the Bay with a view of the Monemvasia Fortress. The low-season rate was just €45 for two, including a substantial breakfast. Nicos and his father looked after us well, with a splendidly cooked and presented evening meal of Saganaki and chicken in cream & mushroom sauce, finishing with orange Glykos (spoon-sweets) on the house.

5. Circular Cycle Ride from Palia Monemvasia via Gerakas and Richia, over an 855 m pass to Metamorfosi, and return via Sikea and Angelona (63 km and about 3,500 ft of climbing)

Down in the airy restaurant at 8 am, we were served the set breakfast by a smiling Nicos – orange juice, coffee, scrambled eggs on toast, pancakes with chocolate Nutella, then more toast with honey, jam and butter! A surprising spread, which set us up well for a hard day's ride. Leaving the van parked at Hotel Annema, we cycled north on an anticlockwise loop.

The ride began with a short climb to 330 ft/100 m at Ariana, then down again to sea level and a short side-trip to the tiny fishing port of Limenas Geraki. We had coffee at a little fish taverna by the harbour before returning to the main (empty) road which climbed steadily north to Gerakas. We had another break here, sitting under a shady tree until wasps chased us off. The sun and gradient remained relentless as we cycled the quietest of roads, north through Ag Ioannis (St John, a popular village name) and up to the larger village of Richia, at 25 km and a height of 1,585 ft/480 m. Here we bought more coffee (always served with essential glasses of icy cold water) and snacked on crackers and bananas – all we needed after such a good breakfast. Chocolate is no longer an option in this heat!

After another 2 km from Richia, and now at 1,750 ft/530 m, we came to a road junction and a decision point! The choice was to turn back for an easy 27 km ride, mostly downhill, or go southwest to climb the pass over to Metamorfosi, a road we could see snaking off up the mountainside in the distance, which would be further and much harder. We decided to give it a try – we could always turn round.

It was hot, dry, dusty and bleak as we scaled the hairpins, soon leaving the cattle who stared at us way below. Above, on the ridge, a herd of massive black goats stood sentinel and we hoped there were no guard dogs! The goat-herd was outlined against the sky, leaning on one of a pair of ruined round towers. The wind turned against us as we struggled to the top of the pass, at 32 km and 2,820 ft/855 m, but we had ridden it all. A footpath to the left led to a Profitis Ilias chapel (Prophet Elijah, commonly worshipped on mountain tops) and on to radio masts atop Mt Koulochera (1125 m). But we had a glorious 12-km descent, hairpinning rapidly past more goats, sheep, a dusty working quarry and eventually into well-named Metamorfosis, still high at 1,363 ft/413 m.

Ice creams and iced water here, before continuing 6 km to join the main Molai-Monemvasia road at Sikea. We soon left it, to return to the Hotel Annema via the villages of Angelona and (yet another) Ag Ioannis. This was a much quieter route, though involved more climbing before dropping to the coast.

See our pictures at: http://www.magbazpictures.com/monemvasia-cycle-ride.html

The day ended with a drive back to Camping Paleologio near Sparta, large helpings of beanz on toast and home-made gingerbread in the caravan and a good sleep!  

JUNE 2014 – Camping Paleologio, Mistras, Sparta

With settled weather, a peaceful campsite, ideal cycling conditions (but reports of heavy rain and storms in Bulgaria), we linger in the fertile vale of Sparta, in the shadow of the still-snow-capped Taigetos. The grid-like streets of the modern city, laid out in 1834, are of little historical or architectural interest, mostly overbuilt with blocks of concrete flats. The remains of Ancient Sparta are few, and scarcely signposted since Byzantine Mystras is seen as the major tourist attraction.

Exploring Ancient Sparta

The two main roads of Sparta - Lykourgou (east-west) and Palaeologou (north-south) - cross at the central square. At the northern end of Palaeologou stands a statue of King Leonidas (hero of Thermopylae) in front of the modern soccer stadium. To the left of the stadium a sign points along a lane (where parking may be possible) to the scant ruins of the ancient acropolis and theatre. We passed a private kindergarten/school, where the mixed infants had dressed up to fight the Turks and dance in the garden, then on for about half a km through venerable olive groves, past a few ancient stone walls, to the acropolis.

New excavation was underway, with a few workmen in evidence and some sections fenced off, but most of the site was still overgrown and there was no information or entry fee, nor any other visitors. Beyond the acropolis the path leads to the foundations of a sanctuary to Athena. To the west we found the more discernible remains of a theatre (3rd - 2nd century BC), partly excavated out of the hillside. The clear view of the Taigetos mountains beyond was impressive. We could see Mystras Castle standing proud on its crag, and the narrow road we had recently cycled winding its way up the mountainside to Anavriti. Wild flowers were wilting now in the dry undergrowth and we kept a careful watch for snakes basking among the warm stones as we took our seat at the theatre.

In his 'Histories', the Ancient Greek historian Thucydides prophesied that:'If the city of the Lacedaemonians were destroyed, and only its temples and the foundations of its buildings left, remote posterity would greatly doubt whether their power were ever equal to their renown.' And so it seems. The once mighty city-state, protected not by walls but by its military prowess (not to mention mountains on three sides), gradually fell into decline and what was then Roman Sparta was destroyed by Visigoths in 396 AD.

There is more to see at the nice little archaeological museum, in a park on Lykourgou, which has Greek and Roman artefacts from the site, including votive sickles that Spartan boys dedicated to Artemis, statues, mosaics, theatre masks and gravestones.

A Weekend down in the Mani Peninsula (based in Gerolimenas at the Akroyiali Guesthouse)

The Mani, the central peninsula at the foot of the Peloponnese, ends in Cape Tenaro: the second southernmost point of mainland Europe (after Tarifa in Spain) and almost on the same latitude as Tangiers. The Inner Mani (the rugged promontory south of the main town, Areopolis) is a wild and barren area whose fiercely independent inhabitants, the Maniots, claimed descent from the Spartans. Fertile land, carved from the rocky hillsides in backbreaking terraces, was so scarce that it was fiercely fought over and settlements of square stone towers were built from the 17thC onwards as refuges during clan wars and blood feuds.

Even in Patrick Leigh Fermor's time (his 1958 book simply called 'Mani'), the region was only accessible by boat or mule track, though now a loop road runs down the west coast from Areopoli to the little fishing harbour of Gerolimenas, returning up the more rugged eastern side across the grain of the land. With sheer cliffs plunging into the sea, rocky outcrops sheltering pebbly beaches and very little tourist infrastructure, the circuit presents a tough but rewarding challenge to cyclists, as well as opportunity for strenuous walks.

Driving to Akroyiali Hotel at Gerolimanas - Leaving the caravan at Sparta, we drove to Areopoli (39 miles) where parking was free and easy by the bus station. We bought pies from the little bakery and even found a good map (Road series, Mani & Taigetos, 1:50,000) in the bookshop. Then it was14 miles south to Gerolimenas, where the Gerolimenas and Akroyiali Hotels (same management and phone number) stand together fronting the crystal clear bay. Despite this being Friday morning at the start of the Whitsuntide Weekend (Whit Monday is a public holiday in Greece), we were offered an excellent room at the front of the Akroyiali (meaning Land's End) for 2 nights. It had a balcony overlooking the harbour, a TV on which CNN were covering the 70th anniversary of the D-Day Landings (with a considerable US bias), air-con/heater, and an en-suite with a small bath. The restaurant was open from 8 am until late in the evening. Perfect!

A Walk from Kokkinogia to Cape Tenaro Lighthouse (4 km return) – In the afternoon we drove 11 magnificent miles to Kokkinogia, a tiny settlement with one taverna, at the end of the road near the foot of the Mani peninsula. There is a rough open parking space by the ruins of a small temple to Poseidon Tenarios, now incorporated into the later ruins of the little church of St Asomati. The footpath to the lighthouse, signed from here, leads past the scant remains of an ancient settlement by a pebble cove, with a Roman mosaic floor still intact. Turning away from the shore, the path climbs to 200 ft/60 m before dropping again as the copper roof of the (now unmanned) lighthouse appears. It's a fantastic place to sit, to listen to the gulls and watch the shipping slide past in the distance: nothing but blue sea and blue sky on all sides on this hot, bright and breezy afternoon. As far south as it is possible to go, at the very end of the Balkans, but definitely not the place to be in a storm!

As we walked back we thought about the lighthouse keepers who used to welcome visitors to this lonely point, probably arriving by boat. The hotel was still quiet on our return and the two Albanian waiters looked after us well, suggesting dishes of lamb and chicken from the oven. The local deaf & dumb fisherman called at the restaurant with his catch, then went to sleep on his boat moored outside.

Cycling a circuit anticlockwise from Gerolimenas (68 km with 3,500 ft of climbing) – Breakfast at 8 am, and warm enough to eat outside on the terrace, with fresh orange juice, coffee, bread, jam, butter & honey. On the rocks a man was bashing the octopus he'd just caught 40 times, to tenderise it. Another was busy gutting a live fish and rinsing it at the limpid water's edge. Three cats hung about hopefully.

The sun was already hot, with no wind, as we set out to cycle round the peninsula. The road climbed gently SE for 4 km to Alika, then abruptly turned NE, away from yesterday's road to Cape Tenaro. Over the next 7 km we climbed (cycling or walking) to the highest point on our route at 1,250 ft/380 m. The narrow road twisted on, up and down, empty of traffic or habitation except for a locked church at Tsikalia and the occasional stone tower (abandoned ruins or new mock tower-houses, always empty).

The first possible coffee break came at 14 km in Laggia, still high at 1,100 ft/333 m, in the garden of a small taverna as we entered the tiny village. The iced water was even more welcome. Continuing, we noticed a cafι opposite the church in the centre, catering to all the tourists (one car!) The road now took us north, up and down, falling to 165 ft/50 m at Kokkala at 22 km. It had a bakery and a butcher's but no cafι. We sat in the shade, snacked on the crackers & cheese, bananas & yogurt that we'd carried, then continued 3 km to Nyfi, down at 99 ft/30 m where the bar sold us coffee and water. On we rode, above the wonderful undeveloped coastline, to the village of Flomohori. At 34 km, we were only half way round in distance but most of the climbing was done. A delightful old woman at the taverna interrupted her lunch of omelette and bread to serve us ice creams, with complimentary and very welcome iced water. An interesting conversation over the choc-ices with a man who worked in the Health Dept of the Municipality in Flomohori, a place that didn't look big enough to have its own phone box! He had strong opinions about immigrants ('except Albanians, they work hard') and was a supporter of the right-wing premier, Mr Samaras.

After another 2 km – and over half way at last – we reached the junction (up at 725 ft/220 m) from where a road sweeps abruptly down to Kotronas harbour. No descent for us though, as we turned left to zigzag up to Loukadika and climb on to Chimera, recrossing the mountain spine from east to west. The heat, which had built into an oppressive haze, resolved itself in a roll of thunder and heavy raindrops as we rode into a freshening wind beneath a dark sky. This was the same stretch on which we were drenched while cycling in the opposite direction on Margaret's birthday in April 2012!

At 40 km we reached the top of the final climb by Chimera church (1,200 ft/363 m), where we took shelter under a tree to put on some waterproofs. Now it was easy: 7 km down to meet the Areopoli-Gerolimenas road, some 2 km south of Areopoli. It had stopped raining and we paused in the bus shelter to strip off again before continuing 21 km south without stopping: an easy finale with a back wind after a very rewarding day. Our waiting hotel was a welcome sight, with hot baths, Greek salad, pork chops and chips. It had been our hardest ride for many a year, with over 1000 metres of climbing. The secret was to take our time (this is not a race), with frequent breaks and plenty to drink.

Next day (Whit Sunday) we drove back to rejoin the caravan at Sparta. We might have broken the journey for a walk to the Megali Maini Castle on Cape Tigani (south of Areopoli) but the day again turned wet and stormy. How lucky that we'd cycled round the Mani yesterday!

Sparta to Camping Isthmia Beach, Corinth (Korinthos) – 92 miles

Open 1 April-mid Oct. www.campingisthmia.gr. €19.70 inc 10 amp elec and showers. Free WiFi around Reception only.  N 37.88886 E 23.00575

After weeks of deliberation we were still undecided about taking the caravan on to Eastern Europe, or whether to return to the UK and exchange the caravan/VW combination for a motorhome. The ideal would not be another weighty and thirsty RV but a 3.5 ton coachbuilt model, preferably with a garage for the bicycles, and we'd found a possible contender on-line at Marquis Motorhomes.

Reluctantly we bade farewell to our host at Sparta, the ever-smiling Peter Kapetaneas, and set out for Corinth, which would be the decision point: west to Patras for a ferry to Italy, or east to Bulgaria.

We circled round the congested centre of Sparta, crossed the bridge over the Evrotas after 4 miles, then headed north for Tripoli (Sparta's new motorway link as yet unfinished). The smooth road climbed to 900 m or almost 3,000 ft before joining the A7 motorway at 37 miles. The first toll, 9 miles later and just past the services, was €6. We drove through a mile-long good modern tunnel, followed by a shorter one, before passing the ancient stone quarry from which Greco-Roman Korinthos was built, at 71 miles.

A second toll (€6.40) came at 75 miles, then another service station. There was a good view of Akrokorinth high above on our left, before joining the E94 (Athens direction) at 83 miles. At exit 10, 5 miles later, we turned off south for Isthmia. The left turn down a lane to the campsite is signed after another 3 miles.

The securely fenced site lies along the pebbly shore near the southern entrance to the Corinth Canal. It was very hot – over 30 deg C inside the caravan – and the site was mainly filled with statics, with no sea-view pitches free. The young man in Reception warned of a group of students due to arrive tomorrow.

After lunch we went on-line to check availability on ferries to Italy. Disappointingly, both Minoan Lines and Superfast appeared to be fully booked for at least a week. On the telephone it was the same story from Minoan but Superfast had just got one cancellation for the next day. Decision made, we booked the 5.30 pm sailing from Patras to Ancona tomorrow, with 'Camping on Board'!

Excited, we nipped out to the AB Supermarket 2 miles away, for supplies and cash, then parked and ate over the road at Goody's, before walking across the bridge and back for a view of the Corinth Canal. Its sheer rock sides and long narrow channel are an unforgettable sight, also available as a bungee jump!

Back at the campsite it was still hot and airless, the mosquitoes were out in force and a thumping disco sounded from the adjacent hotel. One night here would be more than enough!

Corinth to Patras, South Ferry Port – 111 miles

Overnight Ferry 'Superfast XII' to Ancona, Italy

Away after breakfast: 3 miles back to the motorway, then west for Patras. There was a toll of €6.30 at 14 miles, after we'd passed Corinth, though much of the road is not even a dual carriageway. It's a dangerous and very busy highway, with road-widening works underway, but there is no alternative except the impossibly narrow coast road. The weather remained hot and humid, with a short heavy rainstorm along the way.

We passed the service station near Ancient Sikyon after 20 miles, taking a break at the next services, Akrata, at 50 miles. A third services is at Egio, 15 miles later. To avoid the mayhem of Patras city centre, keep left (signed Pirgos) after passing the turn-off for the new Rio Bridge. The best exit for the new (south) ferry port is junction 2.

Inside the new port it was chaos, with nowhere to park, wait or queue and no signs, but at least the men with guns and dogs were keeping away any would-be illegal emigrants, who had plagued the old port. Barry circled while Margaret went in search of a ticket office and we eventually managed to park among the trucks, though a lorry driver protested.

On board, the Camper Deck was packed full, airless, vibrating and noisy. We have many happy memories of 'camping on board' but it was on a spacious open deck - never like this! After sailing at 5.30 pm Margaret went to Reception to complain and ask about the cost of a cabin. The nice young man in uniform accompanied her to see the situation for himself, then offered us a 2-berth en-suite outside cabin FREE OF CHARGE! We celebrated with an excellent 3-course meal in the a la carte restaurant, a great treat, then had a restful quiet night.

(Continued at: Return to England Spring 2014)