CYCLING IN AUSTRIA IN SEPTEMBER 2013

Travelling with a Sprinter Van, Lunar Caravan and Paul Hewitt Bicycles

Margaret and Barry Williamson
September 2013

(Continued from: Summer in Germany 2013) 

Introduction

After a winter in Spain and Portugal, May in England and June in Ireland, we took the Stena Line ferry in early July 2013 from Harwich to the Hook of Holland to begin our journey through northern Europe. The initial focus was on cycling the Fietspads of the Netherlands and the Radwege of Germany; later we moved further east into Austria, following the line of the Danube to Vienna before turning south into Slovenia.  

AUSTRIA

Irring (Passau) to Campingplatz Grein, Grein an der Donau, Oberosterreich - 110 miles, elevation 824 ft

Open 1 March-31 Oct. www.camping-grein.at/ ACSI Card rate €20 inc taxes and 6 amp elec. Free showers. WiFi €3 per 24 hrs and very good. N 48.22476 E 14.85428

Cycling the Donauradweg from Grein

Grein to Mauthausen and return (80 km) – The autumn equinox dawned on a Sunday morning as the sun broke through the thick mist that lay over the Danube. Fine at last! With relief, we saddled up and rode west for a happier experience of Mauthausen. The well signed route along the north side of the river was a mix of quiet roads and dedicated cycle path, all tarmac. There were a few long-distance cyclists on this Austrian section of the Donauradweg (Passau-Vienna), along with local day-riders. After about 19 km we had a break at a cyclists' café for coffee and cake. There was evidence of the flooding along the banks in May/June 2013, with one section of the cycle route still closed where we followed a diversion through the forest and the village of Strass.

Reaching the waterfront at Mauthausen we surveyed the chic cafes, then ate at McDonalds, watching as a Czech coach (with bike trailer) unloaded a group of cyclists to ride the next stretch. We overtook them all as we cycled east, back to Grein with a good tail wind, and were pleased to finish the ride in 4 hours, averaging 20 km per hr.

Grein to Ybbs and return (41 km) – Cycling east from Grein to Ybbs, it's better to cross the river and ride the south bank on a very quiet riverside road. On the north side of the Danube there is only a busy main road with no separate cycle path. We duly crossed on the little passenger ferry based by our campsite that runs from 9 am-6 pm from May through September: fare €2.40 single or €3 return for a cyclist + bike (www.schwallenburg.at). Until 1965 the ferry was a rowing boat and there were interesting old photos in the cabin. Alternatively, there is now a road bridge a mile west of the campsite (the next bridge east being at Ybbs).

It was an easy ride to Ybbs (18 km from the ferry) with a back wind. We cycled as far as the Tourist Office (open) next to a café (closed), then turned for a more strenuous ride into the wind to Grein. The ferry was moored on the north bank so, rather than summon it on the intercom, we continued to the road bridge and crossed there.

Grein to Donaupark Camping, Klosterneuburg, nr Vienna, Niederosterreich - 110 miles, elevation 580 ft

Open 15 March-4 Nov. www.campingklosterneuburg.at   ACSI Card rate €19.08 inc taxes and 6 amp elec. Free showers. Good WiFi at various charges, eg €19 for 7 days or €29 for 14 days. N 48.31097 E 16.32810

Cycling the Donauradweg from Klosterneuburg

Klosterneuburg to Zwentendorf an der Donau and return (80 km) – The next morning was cloudy but fine with a light wind, perfect for riding the Danube Cycle Path upstream (west) to Tulln and beyond. After 10 km along the south bank we crossed a foot/cycle bridge over a dam to the north side, then continued on lanes and bike paths to Tulln. Here we recrossed the Danube on a busy road bridge (with separate cycle lane) to find a bite of lunch at a sausage & chips kiosk, next to the minigolf/trampoline opposite the swimming baths (30 km). Further long the waterfront is an impressive modern sculpture/fountain, illustrating a scene from the Niebelunglied that took place in the Tulln. It was another 11 km west (the first 5 km on a busy road, then a riverside cycle path) to the village of Zwentendorf, where the Rosencafe/hotel looked inviting for an indulgent Schokomoussetorte and Sachertorte before turning back.

On the return ride we didn't cross the bridge in Tulln, staying on the south side of the river all the way back to Klosterneuburg. It was an easy route, along either bank, apart from the 5 km of road, completed in 4 hours plus breaks. And very warm for the last week of September – in fact, we saw two long thin snakes on the path and a tick on Barry's arm!

Klosterneuburg to Vienna and return (31 km) – A Saturday afternoon ride into and around the capital began on signed back roads until we met the river. Staying on our side of the water, we followed the bike path and canal into the city centre. (The main Donauradweg route crosses the Danube shortly before Vienna, to continue on the north side into Slovakia for Bratislava.) Our riverside path was an obstacle course as we overtook joggers, pedestrians, rollerbladers, dog walkers and push chairs, while being overtaken by athletes on racing cycles.

Finally reaching the Rad-Route-Ring (cycle route round the centre), we followed it beneath the massive stone facades of statue-topped buildings: the post office, theatres, city hall, university and various ministries and embassies etc. Vienna is rightly famed for its coffee, cakes and Strudel, with an excellent selection in the McCafe we tried before returning along the canal and river.

Mautern to Zwentendorf a/d Donau and return (67 km) – To ride the Danube Cycle Path to the west of Zwentendorf , we carried the cycles in the Sprinter van past Krems to a starting point at Mautern. Here was easy free parking outside the Roman Museum right by the Donauradweg, with a backdrop of vineyards. Staying on the south bank of the river, we cycled 34 km to Zwentendorf with a dedicated tarmac cycle path the whole way. It was mostly straight along the river into a head wind, occasionally diverting through woods to avoid Krems yacht club or a barrage.

After another treat of coffee and cakes in the Rosencafe, we returned to the van at a faster pace with a good tail wind – the reason for starting from Mautern rather than Zwentendorf! Never a good idea to ride back into a strong wind if it can be avoided.

(Continued at: Travels in Slovenia in October 2013)