On a short walk to Pouda jetty, returning through the sand dunes, we passed an information board picturing Grey Heron, Flamingo and Glossy Ibis but only spotted a Crested Lark. The small vehicle ferry 'Kato Nisi' was just loading to cross to the offshore island of Elafonissos. Cars were turning round on the crowded deck ready to exit, meaning that we would have to reverse off with the motorhome. As the weather had clouded over, with wind and rain in the air, we decided against going over to the island on foot or bicycle, so left it unvisited.

We drove back via Ag Georgios to Ag Apostoli and the main road south to the larger port of Neapoli. Turning along the sea front, past the ferry terminal for Kithira, we were disappointed to find all the parking lay-bys fenced off for road works. This made it difficult to get through, with nowhere at all to stop.

From Neapoli we continued south-east on a minor road, twisting and turning through the hills via Lachi, thankfully bypassing the tight hillside village of Ag Nikolaos at 13 miles, clustered round its church 500 ft (150 m) above the sea. Then it was downhill through olive groves to the village of Valtaki and on to the end of the road at the foot of the Lakonian peninsula, now sealed all the way to the remote fishing harbour at Profitis Ilias, below cave-riddled cliffs. We parked at the roadside for lunch, 17 miles since breakfast, and as far south as a vehicle can go down this third finger of the Peloponnese (N 36.43680  E 23.11432).

Walking round the tiny harbour we were followed by two beautiful hopeful cats that would have made lovely pets. There was no-one around apart from a couple at the house opposite the small church, who looked surprised to see visitors! A track leads from the harbour to the SE corner of the peninsula at Cape Maleas but it is a long and vertiginous hike. We recalled setting off to walk it many years ago, only to turn back when we saw the drop below the crumbling footpath.

On the way back to Neapoli we parked at the roadside by Ag Nikolaos, where a sign promised Free WiFi throughout the village (the first we'd seen in Greece - and in such a remote place!) We even got a weak signal on the laptop: enough to download incoming emails, though not strong enough to answer them.

We retraced the morning's route north past Ag Apostoli, turning off right 1.5 miles before Elika. The narrow mountain road climbed north-west via Ag Mamas to Lira, up above 1,500 ft or 460 m, then descended to meet the east coast of the peninsula at Nomia (3 miles south of Monemvasia), right by the locked gates of the long-defunct Camping Paradise. It was on that campsite that we first met our late friend Paul Walsh, a professor at the Australian University of Newcastle, travelling with wife Genny and young son John. Sad memories of our last meeting with them at their home Down Under, as Paul's health began to fail.

At Nomia we turned south for 6 miles, to the end of the sinuous coast road at the little settlement of Ag Fokas. Parking on rough ground opposite the short causeway to a tiny church, we wondered why this particular isolated spot was listed in the 'Camperstop Europe' book, with nothing here but a tap. As darkness fell the silent magic of the place became apparent, with the most amazing view of the white church poised on its islet against a magnificent seascape. We could have been in the Scottish Highlands, the west coast of Ireland or by a New Zealand shore.

After a quick supper of tomato soup and bacon butties, we began to watch Peter Jackson's 'Hobbit' trilogy, but our eyes kept straying to the view through the windscreen which surpassed the fantastical CG Images! With a full moon and a single light shining from the churchyard, it was quiet as the grave.

Agios Fokas to Annema Hotel, Palia Monemvasia, Peloponnese – 15 miles

Open all year. www.annemahotel.com.  Modern hotel/restaurant by the shore at Old Monemvasia, across the bay from the rock fortress of Monemvasia.  Double en-suite room with TV and fridge, low season, €45 including full breakfast. Free WiFi. N 36.73406  E 23.03811

Before leaving Ag Fokas we looked round the magnificently sited cemetery, noting that almost all the graves belonged to just two families, most of whom had lived into or beyond their eighties.

Then a windswept drive north past Nomia to Gefira (= Bridge), the harbour town that developed after WW2, built by the causeway leading to the rock fortress and lower town of Monemvasia. Parked on the quayside, we walked briskly round the shops. There are a couple of bakeries, fruit & veg stores and an old-fashioned grocer's, but most premises are cafes and restaurants (with very few open). As waves were beginning to splash over the harbour walls, we moved to the parking area across the causeway (which replaced a 14-arch bridge in the early 19th C) for lunch. We had looked round Tourist Monemvasia when last here (May 2014) and the upper town and fortress still remain closed for 'renovation'.

We drove about 3 miles north from Gefira, then turned right (signed Gerakas) to follow the shore of Old Monemvasia Bay for another 2 miles to Hotel Annema, built right by the water looking straight across to the rock fortress. When we stayed here for one night last May we promised ourselves (and owner, Nikos) another visit and here we were, with a warm welcome from Nikos's parents. Margaret had reviewed it on Trip Advisor:

"Chanced on this lovely modern family-run hotel in a quiet seaside spot, just a few miles from busy overpriced Monemvasia. What a lucky find! The room had all we need (en-suite, fridge, heater/air-con, TV), as well as a balcony with seats and a view over the bay to the rock and fortress of Monemvasia. A substantial breakfast was included (orange juice, coffee, scrambled eggs on toast, Nutella pancakes, more toast with butter, jam and honey), lovingly prepared even though we were the only guests! 

Dinner in the restaurant was another nice surprise, with plenty of choice, beautifully cooked and served, and a dessert 'on the house'. The off-season price was excellent value and we hope to return for longer next time!

Room Tip: Rooms with balcony overlooking the sea have a wonderful view of Monemvasia fortress."

Now we had a very comfortable couple of days at the quiet hotel, enjoying evening meals and cooked breakfasts by the cosy log fire, using the reliable free WiFi to write (and listen to Radio 4), watching Greek television (as well as our own films played through the TV set), taking long hot showers and (literally) recharging our batteries. A fill of water and a hook-up to run the motorhome fridge were 'No Problem' to this extremely helpful family.

Nikos has fluent English and talked us passionately through Greece's current political and financial situation, as well as explaining the history of the area. What is nice is that Britain's role in Greece in WW2 was remembered with gratitude, when talk turned to German atrocities and their current failure to address the matter of reparations. (Hence our Union Flag on the motorhome!) The village of Palia Monemvasia was the original harbour and settlement of Old Monemvasia until it was supplanted by Gefira after the Second World War. The ruined hilltop tower overlooking the village was one of a line of watch towers built to send warning to the rock fortress, and subsequently serving as signal stations for the Germans who had a wartime airfield in Molai, 10 miles to the NW. Nikos even told us that the deep bay we overlook was used as a secret submarine base by the Allies!

On a short walk to the church of Ag Barbara and Ag Nikolaos, down by the fishing boats, we lit candles, thought of recently deceased family and friends, and counted our blessings.

Palia Monemvasia to 'O Kavos' Taverna, Valtaki, Nr Githio, Peloponnese – 94 miles (the long way round!)

Free parking outside Taverna, 4 miles from Githio on Skala road.  N 36.76258  E 22.59551

We left the Hotel Annema after a substantial breakfast, with many thanks to the helpful Stavropoulos family. We'll be back!

Driving NE the coast road climbed 400 ft over a headland, then dropped to the turn-off for the harbour of Limenas Geraka on an inlet. Shortly before the quayside, we stopped on a parking area (7 miles from the hotel) that would be good for a night, at N 36.78831 E 23.08211.

From here we followed a signed footpath on a 2-mile circular walk - up to the Ancient Acropolis of Zarax on a windy hill overlooking the tiny port, then down a track past the cemetery and church into the village. The view of the open sea and the inlet below was worth the short climb on a stony track. Descending, we found the cemetery overgrown, with some of the marble graves smashed in, and even a few human bones thrown in a heap behind a wall! In contrast the little church of Ag Nikolaos (patron saint of sailors, rather than Christmas, and very popular round the coast) was beautifully maintained inside and out, its garden full of fragrant freesia.

Down at the car park another motorhome had arrived - Peter and Elaine in their Hymer, last seen at Camping Finikes over Christmas. We chatted, made coffee and gave them some Spartan oranges before continuing on the narrow road NW, climbing through the tiny villages of Gerakas and Ag Ioannis to Reicha. Little sign of life, apart from flocks of goats and (unusually) a rabbit, as rain began to fall and clouds descended. This is the memorable route we cycled after a night at the Annema Hotel in May 2014.

In Reicha, up at 1,720 ft or 520 m, we now turned right to drive north (rather than going left to climb over the mountains to Metamorfossi, the route we cycled last year – see Cycle Ride No 5 in the Travel Log on this Link). Our onward road climbed to above 2,000 ft (620 m), then zigzagged down to Lampokampos at 1,780 ft (540 m). Continuing NW, at 28 miles we reached 3,100 ft (940 m) at a road junction signed left for Sparta, right for Leonidio (our intended destination). Here we had a tea break, rain falling steadily.

We turned right as indicated (and confirmed by our map), then right again just before Kremasti on a good road, again signed for Leonidio. The SatNav objected that this was an 'unpaved road' but, as it was newly surfaced, we ignored the advice to make a U-turn and take a much longer route. We continued along smooth tarmac through high scrub and woodland until, at 35 miles and a height of 3,080 ft (934 m), we came to the end of the bitumen! A rough stony track confronted us, with no sign of explanation. We stopped and walked to look round the next bend in the pouring rain but there was no paved road as far as the eye could see. Perhaps we should have heeded the SatNav, but there had been no hint that the new road would suddenly end here, at the border from Lakonia into Arcadia. (We later discovered that there is an unfinished mountain section of just 1.2 km before the tarmac road continues!)

Seriously annoyed, we had no choice but to retrace our route for 7 miles back to the road junction past Kremasti. We then continued SW (signed Sparta) through the mountains to the village of Ag Dimitrios at 1,300 ft (395 m). From here there is an alternative minor road via Mari to Leonidio but we didn't risk another closed road, since it was late in the afternoon and still raining heavily. Instead we continued NW to Geraki, down at 990 ft (300 m), hoping to park there overnight.

Finding no space at all in the tight village, it was onward and upward for the 9-mile ascent to the mountain village of Kosmas, where we know there is space in the square (and eventually a road down to Leonidio).  But while we climbed the rain turned to sleet, the sleet became snow and - on reaching 2,970 ft or 900 m – it began to settle on the steep road! Only 2 miles short of Kosmas, we again turned back, as we had no wish to be stranded up there or to take the serpentine road down to Leonidio in a snow storm!

Back at Geraki we continued south, trusting it would be warmer by the coast, and turned SW at Skala towards Githio. About 4 miles before the port (and 1 mile before Valtaki Beach, which is listed in the 'Camperstop Europe' book) we spotted a brightly lit roadside taverna (O Kavos) with empty car park. It was now dark and still pouring with rain.

'Can we eat here and park overnight?' Margaret asked the owners, who sat with their dogs by a blazing log fire in the empty restaurant. 'Of course you can stay, whether you want to eat or not'. We dined on hot toast drizzled with olive oil, cheese-stuffed meatballs with piping hot chips, and freshly cooked donuts 'on the house'. A great end to a frustrating day!

Valtaki to Plaka, Nr Leonidio, Peloponnese – 60 miles

Free parking in square near harbour.  N 37.14771  E 22.89383

Before leaving the Valtaki area, we drove 1 mile towards Githio to check the spot listed in 'Camperstop Europe' at N 36.78883 E 22.58225. It's down a narrow track signed Valtaki Beach and Archaeological Site, by a (closed) taverna near a shipwreck. No-one there on the soft sand.

Then it was 10 miles back to Skala, to shop at Lidl and Carrefour and fill up with diesel (for cash, as the garage card-reader 'wasn't working' – a common event now). Continuing east to the next village, Vlachiotis, we then headed north via Gouves, climbing through hills of olive groves to meet yesterday's route and turn east.

We followed it to Ag Dimitrios, at 22 miles and 1,300 ft (395 m), then took the minor road north, which proved a good route over the border from Lakonia, fully sealed, the only delay being a flock of goats. Wild flowers cover the verges in red, white and blue, the almond trees are full of pink blossom and the rain has stopped. Arcadia indeed! We parked for lunch at 31 miles, by a waterfall in the village of Mari up above 2,000 ft (620 m), then zigzagged up past a monstrous wind farm to 2,770 ft (840 m ) before hairpinning down again.

At Vretakaika we came to the northern end of the unfinished road that had turned us back yesterday. Driving briefly south to see how far the tarmac lasted, we found the sealed road ended just 1.2 km short of the point we had reached. Again, there was no road sign indicating the roughly shod gap!

From Vretakaika our road continued north through Peleta, a tiny inhabited village at 2,145 ft (650 m), then dropped via a series of steep Z-bends to sea level at Poulithra – a first-gear descent like bringing a plane in to land. We do remember the thrill of riding this route on a cycle tour! At the sea front we turned left for the harbour at Plaka, 2 miles before Leonidio.

Both our books (Bord Atlas and Camperstop Europe) list a site at Plaka, well signposted as 'Camping Semeli', accessed from either end of a narrow lane. The gates were locked and the phone number given in the books was unobtainable! Fortunately the nearby square, between the beach and the Coastguard Station, has plenty of well-lit parking space. Admittedly it has a No Camping sign, perhaps enforced when Semeli is open, but no-one objected to our stay.

We settled here by the beach shower and lifeguard tower, a stone's throw from Foinikas Cafe with free WiFi, a public WC, a small fishing harbour and a Fish Restaurant (called, appropriately, Margaret's). A young couple we spoke with have spent the winter behind the square in Troubas Rooms, at a charge of €200 per month + electricity. Again we wonder at the price of Greek campsites (when you can find one open)!

Plaka to Kosmas, Peloponnese – 20 miles (height 3,730 ft or 1130 m)

Free parking in square behind church.   N 37.09171  E 22.7403

Lovely to wake to the morning sun, here on the east coast of the Peloponnese. An old man walking past to fish from the beach assured us in halting English that we were very welcome and he loved tourists. He might not have been so friendly if our number plate were D rather than GB, given the current economical/political situation.

We drove along to Leonidio (less than 3 miles) past crops of lettuce, broad beans and polytunnel tomatoes. There is parking space on both sides of a bridge over the dry river bed (at N 37.16631  E 22.85818) – a good place to stop before reaching the long narrow town that is best avoided in a large vehicle! Walking through the busy town centre, we found a bank ATM and a good bakery, then lunched on cheese & ham pies in the motorhome before driving up to Kosmas.

This is a favourite route that we've driven, motorbiked and cycled several times; always with astonishment that such a road was ever built. It climbs out of Leonidio past a watch tower at 265 ft (80 m), with a memorial to the Greek Heroes killed here in January 1949 (the civil war that followed WW2). Then it rises, gradually but relentlessly, up the dramatic gorge populated only by goats. The river, dry and overgrown in Leonidio, was flowing with blue snow-melt water above 100 m – its disappearance lower down the valley a mystery.

At 760 ft (230 m) we had the first glimpse of the incredible Eloni Monastery (a convent clamped like a limpet on the rock face above). There is a layby a little further on at 825 ft (250 m), ideally placed to take a photograph of the soaring cliffs and white convent buildings. On reaching a bridge at 960 ft (290 m), the road leaves the river and zigzags more steeply heavenwards until it reaches Eloni (up at 1,750 ft or 530 m). Here, 12 miles from Plaka, we parked to take in the giddy view below and walk into the convent, its gates open daily until 6 pm. This is the haunt of Golden Eagles - and the legend of a light shining on the mountainside that led the villagers of Eloni to find a holy icon at this very spot.

As we approached, a gentle priest emerged to greet us and unlock the chapel built into the rock. Speaking only Greek, he made us feel very welcome as he offered a candle for us to light. The tiny church was aglow with gold and silver icons and lamps, the atmosphere magically peaceful. (No entry fee of course, just a box for donations.) There are no nuns in residence in winter time (they have a newer convent down in Leonidio), though several move up to Eloni in the summer, in Holy Transhumance.

As we drove another 8 miles up to Kosmas it began to rain lightly, with a mist of low cloud drifting across the road when we reached 2,740 ft (830 m). The maximum height was 3,785 ft (1147 m) shortly before entering the tiny mountain village. Hard to believe we were turned back by snow on the ascent from Geraki to Kosmas just two days ago! We parked by the water fountains behind the substantial central church, its clock chiming the hour and half hour (8 minutes late for each!) until midnight. A good well lit place, cool in summer, though cold in winter.

A short stroll revealed only two places open: a pottery shop and the little restaurant & rooms called O Maleatis Apollon – where we have twice stayed the night when cycling through. The newly restored 'Museum of Local Folk Lore & Library' was closed, as always. The little council office announced on the locked door that the Doctor would be in attendance for one hour on a Tuesday morning – back in February. Life must be hard for the few folk living up here year-round.

Later we went to sit by the log-burner in the Apollon and sampled the limited menu. There was bean soup (though only one portion to share, as a German couple staying in the rooms had already ordered it), meatballs bread-crumbed and fried (like Scotch eggs without the eggs) and chips - all good and hot.

Back in the motorhome we rugged up warm and watched the second film of the 'Hobbit' series. It wasn't hard to picture imaginary creatures living in the woods up here!   

Kosmas to Plaka, Peloponnese – 20 miles

Free parking in square near harbour.  N 37.14771  E 22.89383

Next morning dawned dry, bright and sunny after a chilly night. We drove back down the serpentine road, past the Eloni Monastery, descending to park once more in Leonidio and buy bread. We also visited the hairdresser/barber shop, run by a very competent young woman who transformed us both!

Returning to Plaka, we settled down in the quiet square again. Where have all the motorhomes gone? We've hardly seen any since Christmas.

After lunch the sunshine lured us out on the bicycles, to ride down the coast to Poulithra harbour (4 km), then uphill through Poulithra village. We soon turned off left along a narrow lane (signed Ag Georgios) that led us strenuously up and down across the hillside, with views of Poulithra Bay below. The road ended at a cluster of new houses where we turned back and retraced our route (total distance 18 km).

Back at Plaka, we rewarded ourselves with glasses of fresh Spartan orange juice before making a chicken & veg curry.  

At Plaka

Next day rain poured once more and thunder rumbled over the dark sea. The weather is certainly changeable, though not cold by the coast! We had a useful hour or two in the nearby Cafι Foinikas, using the free WiFi while charging up both laptops over excellent coffee. A chance to update the travelog and check emails, the £ to € exchange rate (best for years) and the weather forecast (getting better). We also checked on Camping Semeli again, seeing the gate open, but a workman said it will open in 'maybe 3 weeks'.

(to be continued)