A Motorhome Journey of 1,600 miles through Greece in the Winter of 2014/2015 

At the End of an Overland Journey from the UK to Greece via the Netherlands, Germany, Poland, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria 

Margaret Williamson

Continued at: In Greece in the Spring of 2015 

See also the map, table of distances and photographs of the route and an account comparing this journey through Eastern Europe with parallel bicycle journeys made in the days of the iron Curtain:

An Autumnal Journey through Eastern Europe 2014 

Follows on from the detailed Travel Log of the Journey from Ijmuiden, near Amsterdam, to Alexandroupoli in the far northeast of Greece:

Travel Log from the Netherlands to Greece 

There is a full gallery of photographs on this website:

Images of a Journey through Greece Winter 2014-2015 

Images of the journey can also be found under the general heading:

http://www.magbazpictures.com/greece-2014.html 

Introduction 

After a wasted month of July in England, wrestling with the phenomenon of Marquis Malpractice, August passed pleasantly in the purchase, equipping and testing of an excellent Carado T337 motorhome from the rejuvenated Brownhills Motorhomes of Newark. By September we were riding the long-distance river cycle paths of Germany, and October saw us motorhoming through the Eastern European countries of Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria. Our aim - to reach the warm shelter of Greece before winter strikes! 

What changes they had seen.

FROM BULGARIA INTO GREECE 

Sofia to Camping Sakar Hills, Biser – 168 miles

Open 1 April-31 Oct. www.sakar-hills.com. Bulgarian Leva or Euros accepted: €14 inc elec and hot showers. Free WiFi. Excellent own-label Merlot wine for sale! N 41°52'13”  E 25°59'29”

Our host, Nedko, offered us coffee before we made an early start, south on the roughly surfaced outer ring road for 10 miles, then SE on the A1/E80 for Plovdiv - a good motorway with 2 lanes in each direction. It was fairly quiet on this cold Sunday morning as we climbed to 2,640 ft/800 m in a ski area before a gradual descent. There are regular service areas along the route, with catering by KFC, Burger King or McDonalds. After 63 miles we had a coffee break (but not a Burger) north of Pazardzik, down at 850 ft/257 m.

At the Happy Grill, 20 miles later, we stopped for a 'Full English Breakfast' – the best Bulgarian motorway food at any time of day! For 10 Lev (€5) a head, we each had a large glass of fresh orange juice, 2 eggs, 2 sausages, Heinz beanz, bacon, mushrooms, tomato and warm bread (credit cards accepted). Happy indeed!

We continued east past Plovdiv to the next exit, the end of the A1 near Kalekovec. Some day the motorway between Plovdiv and Harmanli will be complete – but not today. We had to turn south, cross the railway and join the rough 2-lane rd 8 that runs east to Harmanli (from where you can again join the motorway to Svilengrad and the Turkish border). Driving along past Haskovo, avoiding the bumps, there are many stalls selling cheese (Peynir in Bulgarian, Kasar in Turkish) – a local speciality that we've never tried.

After 159 miles we parked by the soulless new market in Harmanli and had a walk round the dusty town, drab even in afternoon sunshine. Most shops were closed except for the Billa supermarket (which the locals call the Museum – they can look but not afford to buy). The Lidl store (new since our last visit) was already closed up for renovation after flooding. It all looked rather depressing.

Another 9 miles along the old main road to Biser. Turn right at the sign, go under the new railway bridge, and Sakar Hills Camping is on the right just before the village. We immediately felt better, welcomed by the owner, our old friend Martin Jeffes, who had kept the splendid little site open just for us. 

See our Account and Map for more on Sakar Hills Camping.

INTO GREECE

Biser, Bulgaria to Municipal Camping Alexandroupoli Beach, Alexandroupoli, Thrace – 117 miles (Sea level!)

Open all year. www.ditea.gr. €17.63 inc local taxes, 8-amp elec and hot showers. Free WiFi. N 40.84679  E 25.85614

With an early start, heading east along the old main road, we paused after 5 miles at Lyubimets for a fill of diesel. The new motorway from Harmanli to Svilengrad now bypasses Lyubimets, to the detriment of this once thriving service station, now deserted and offering a very limited menu. Instead of the anticipated ham & eggs for breakfast, we spent our remaining Bulgarian change on toasted sandwiches.

At Svilengrad we turned right for Greece (well signed), rather than straight on into Turkey. At the Greek border (14 miles) there was just a passport check at the joint crossing point, the strip of no-man's land now redundant. The onward route down this south-east corner of Greece, past a turning for the Turkish frontier at Kastania at 33 miles, was remarkably quiet until we turned into the first Greek town, Orestiada.

The town centre was the usual muddle of Greek driving and double parking, as we made our way through to Lidl at 45 miles. It was a joy to restock (they even had genuine Cheddar cheese) and we celebrated arrival in our favourite winter country with tea and biscuits in the car park.

Now it was south to the Mediterranean Sea, actually feeling the warmth of the sun as it broke through the clinging mist. The new dual carriageway down from Orestiada was no nearer completion than it was 4 years ago, but traffic was light. We drove past fields of unpicked cotton, watched a train going by laden with sugar beet, and passed the Thracian towns of Didymotico and Soufli.

On meeting the A2 (E90) we turned west for Alexandroupolis, rather than east for the main Turkish border crossing at Ipsala. There were no tolls at this end of the empty motorway (and no services, just an occasional parking area). We took exit 41 for Alex'polis and turned south down a narrow road that led straight into the city centre traffic. Turn right (west) along the main road for about a mile, then left at traffic lights into the campsite gates.

It's a huge level site run by the town hall, with fairly basic facilities and no washing machine, but it does provide a good stopping place on the way to/from Turkey or Bulgaria. Popular in summer, it is almost empty now: just a couple of German campers on the beachfront. Surprisingly, the campsite restaurant was open for the weekend but we were deterred by the loud music needed for the locals to enjoy themselves. Besides, we still have plenty of pumpkin & vegetable soup, and the pumpkin & apple cake is good with custard!

At Camping Alexandroupoli Beach, Alexandroupoli

Next day we walked into the town, along the beach as far as the stream and then through the park to the stadium. It was just good to be in Greece and to feel warm, with no heating needed in the motorhome. We called at Multirama (computer shop) for a cable to link TV and laptop, then strolled along the sea front to the lighthouse. The many cafes were all busy, despite the recession

Returning along the main thoroughfare, we replenished our Euro fund at an ATM and had lunch at Goody's, which had moved one block back from the promenade. It's a Greek chain, selling a range of good burgers and real chips, with free iced water.

The free WiFi worked at our pitch but it has the annoying habit of cutting off every 30 minutes without warning, and requiring log-in and password again. Barry wrote to Alexandroupolis town hall about this on our last visit and was assured they would look into it. That was 4 years ago and they are still looking! They also reacted to Margaret's suggestion that a washing machine was needed, as there is now a poster advertising a launderette somewhere in the town!

We were extremely sad (not to mention angry) to learn that John Radford, a nationally-known cyclist Margaret rode with in the Huddersfield CTC, had died shortly before his 71st birthday. He was knocked off his bicycle over a year ago by a hit and run driver, 23-year-old Michael Gledhill, and never recovered from serious head injuries. See the report in the Huddersfield Examiner. Initially found guilty by a unanimous jury of causing serious injury by dangerous driving, Gledhill is now likely to be charged with causing the death of the well-known and respected cyclist.

Alexandroupoli to Car Park at Porto Lagos harbour, Thrace – 73 miles

Open all year. Note: closed Saturday night and Sunday morning/afternoon for huge weekly Sunday market. Free parking, no facilities. Good fish taverna opposite. N 41.00633 E 25.12028

Today, Remembrance Sunday in the UK, is also the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. The end of the First World War and (for Eastern Europe) the end of the Second. Much to think about as we set off on a sunny morning after overnight rain.

Driving west from Alexandroupolis we soon passed Lidl (closed on Sundays) on the right, opposite Santa Rosa Hotel & Camping, a very tight camping area with poor facilities. Joining the E40 at Makri (exit 40), we continued west past the humble villages of Thrace. Home to ethnic Turks, with an occasional minaret and field crops of cotton and tobacco. This quiet motorway, the Odos Egnatia named after the Roman Via Ignatia, crosses northern Greece from the port of Igoumenitsa to the Turkish border.

Exit 38, Komotini east, is now also signed for Bulgaria, as a new crossing point has recently been opened in the Rodopi Mountains to the north. We took exit 37, Komotini west, after driving 35 miles and made our way for 3 miles to the Archaeological Museum in the centre.

We paid €1 each (reduced entry for Seniors) and found ourselves outnumbered by staff in the empty museum! On a previous visit we'd talked at length with the Director and had now brought him a gift of a book on Troy (a special interest of his). Sadly, he wasn't there and no-one else spoke English, so it was a short visit. There are prehistoric, Greek and Roman finds from local sites, labelled in English. The familiar ancient artefacts and grave goods do include two remarkable exhibits: the iron-studded leather soles of a pair of Roman soldier's sandals, and a beautiful gold head of the second century AD emperor Septimius Severus.

Leaving Komotini we took rd 2 south-west to Porto Lagos, past the heronry at Lake Vistonida and the little island monastery of St Nikolas in the Porto Lagos lagoon, which was busy with visitors, the car park full of coaches. Turning left to the port, to check the area listed in 'Camperstop Europe', the approach road was lined with cars and the harbour area full of marquees and market stalls: it's the site of a huge Sunday market all year round!

Turning back, we retraced our route past Lake Vistonida and the lagoons (home to herons, pelicans and flamingo), then turned right and along through Fanari to the sea front, where there is ample free parking beyond the seasonal campsite. We sat out the rainy afternoon, then returned 8 miles to Porto Lagos, where the enormous market had gone. Just four workmen and a van remained, clearing up all the debris and plastic.

We parked in a quiet well-lit corner by the water and had a good meal at a fish taverna, though we chose to eat chicken. It was a quiet night apart from the fish a'jumping – a constant splash of fish leaping into the air and plopping back into the water. They didn't look large enough to be porpoises and remain a mystery!

Porto Lagos to Car Park at Orfani Beach, Nr Kariani, Thrace – 97 miles (with detour to Amphipolis)

Open all year. Note: closed from Sunday night until 4 pm Monday for weekly Monday market. Free parking, no facilities. N 40°45'49”  E 23°54'7”

A couple of early morning anglers had set up their rods but spoke no English, so we never learnt what the flying fish were.

Back on rd 2, heading north-west, we joined the A2 motorway (E90 Odos Egnatia) near Xanthi and continued west in warm sunshine. At 22 miles a new motorway bridge crossed the River Nestor, from Thrace into Macedonia. On through a couple of tunnels, climbing to 1,115 ft/338 m as we bypassed Kavala. At the top, in thick fog which lasted until the Filippi exit, we glimpsed a new memorial to a motorbiker and wondered if it was foggy that day too.

At 62 miles came the first toll point (just €2.40), then we turned off 2 miles later for the first services, Moustheni (listed in 'Camperstop Europe). It's a Shell station with plenty of parking space, restaurant and (unusual in Greece) a motorhome dump point. We just stopped for coffee and bought croissants and cheese pies, though it looked a good overnight place.

Further west along A2, we took the exit for Amphipolis and followed the signs to the impressive Amfipoli Lion statue at 82 miles. Another 4 miles up to the museum in Amphipolis village, which was closed (Mondays). No matter, we'd been before, but we did get in to ask the Director about the new excavations of tombs nearby. She pointed across to activity on a distant hillside but said there was no access for visitors at present. See http://www.theamphipolistomb.com/  Disappointed, we ate lunch on the car park and walked over the scant foundations of ancient Amfipolis in the woods.

Back on the A2 motorway we returned east for one junction, then turned down to the beach at Orfani, where the official car park had a Sunday market. We followed the coast road another 3 miles along to Kariani, noting damage and repairs to the sea wall in places. Seeing nowhere better, we returned to Orfani Beach where the market was just packing up. Though smaller than the one at Porto Lagos yesterday, it had many of the same stalls selling produce, winter clothes, bedding etc.

This was a good place for the night, sunny and well lit, with a few shops opposite. The cafes were doing good business, cooking souvlakis over coals for the stall holders. We walked along the beach, watching a few fishing boats on the calm shining sea, and had a good view of the sunset over Mount Athos.

Orfani Beach to Zampetas Camper Stop, Zampetas Caravans & Motorhomes, Perea, Nr Thessaloniki, Greek Makedonia – 83 miles

Open all year. www.zampetas.gr. Note: closed Sundays. Free parking with free elec, water, dump point and WC. Free WiFi inside the accessory shop. Servicing, repairs etc available. N 40°30'9”  E 22°58'15”

For more photographs, click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/zampetas-motorhomes.html

An early bird-watching breakfast at Orfani Beach in the company of crested larks, wagtails and chaffinch. No seagulls, they seem to be scarce on the Mediterranean. Heading west again, we joined the A2 at Amphipolis and continued along a new section, through short tunnels high above the coast road. After 20 miles we took exit 27 (Asprovolta), a mile from Lidl, arriving to shop at 9.05 am just as they were opening up. Then back on the A2, with a toll at 49 miles (€2.40 again) by a layby/WC.

Following signs for Airport and Halkidiki, we turned south before Thessaloniki on E79, the inner ring road (peripherique), neatly avoiding the centre of Greece's second city, though these highways are all extremely busy. After the airport, we turned off (signed Epanomi) and followed the SatNav to Zampetas Motorhomes, which turned out to be on the left across a dual carriageway. U-turn at the next traffic lights and back to the entrance.

It's not a peaceful night stop, being next to a car wash on a noisy road under the flight path of Macedonia International Airport (handy for Ryanair!) but they do offer all the facilities for a free night, as well as motorhome repairs, service or accessories without obligation. We parked with hook-up, had lunch and then talked to Alexander Zampetas who, with brother Antonis, runs the business established by their late father in the 1970s. They and their staff speak English and German. We have never seen such a good place in Greece: official agents for several German brands (including Hymer and Carado), with a well stocked accessory shop and competent workshop.

In the course of the afternoon, Alexander replaced all our inside light bulbs with LEDs and convinced us of the need for air springs on the rear suspension. By 6 pm Barry was reversing our Carado out of the workshop, newly fitted with Goldschmitt air suspension complete with air compressor and pressure gauges. The difference in handling proved remarkable.

See our article English-Speaking Motorhome Service in Greece.

Perea/Thessaloniki to Coach & Motorhome Park, Vergina, Greek Makedonia – 69 miles (500 ft/150 m high)

Open all year. Overnight parking €4 inc water (no dump point). Elec hook-up €3. Free WiFi. N 40°29'6”  E 22°19'10”

On a drizzly grey day we filled with diesel at the adjacent car wash garage, headed north past the airport to join the inner ring road E79, then the E90 motorway signed Athens. We paid one toll at 35 miles (€3) and turned off 5 miles later at exit 17 for Kozani and Veria. After passing a service station, take exit 14 for Vergina and Veria, then follow the signs for Vergina and its Macedonian Royal Tombs.

Mr Theocharopoulos, owner of the guarded car and coach park next to his house, speaks German. It's a good secure place, gates locked at night, and only a short walk from the magnificent Royal Tombs. Since we've visited the site more than once before, we spent the wet afternoon on-line, the WiFi working well with our antenna. Finished with a warming meal of corned beef hash, the last of the pumpkin & apple cake with thick Greek yogurt, and the Flashman film 'Royal Flash'.

At Vergina, Greek Makedonia

Next morning the rain had stopped and we walked along to the royal tombs, a highlight of Greek Macedonia, including the burial tomb of the Macedonian King Philip II (father of Alexander the Great): http://www.ask.com/wiki/Vergina. A noisy school party was about to go underground, so we didn't revisit them. We had come to ask whether the remains of Philip II's Royal Palace, a mile or so away, are now open to visit. The site was closed when we were last here in 2011- and it is still closed for 'restoration'! Back at the motorhome park, we mentioned this to Mr Theocharopoulos. He said that even the villagers cannot get near the palace site and have no idea what is happening there.

The villagers do, however, know a tourist when they see one. Buying a loaf at the local bakery, Margaret noticed the price charged was higher than usual but paid up. Only back at the motorhome did she find a receipt in the bag for the normal price, which had been raised by 50% (and the difference pocketed). Not worth the walk back to the bakery to argue, but a reminder to check more carefully before leaving a shop. Sad times.

Vergina to Camping Vrachos Kastraki, Meteora, Nr Kalambaka, Thessaly – 106 miles (250 m or 825 ft high)

Open all year. ACSI Card rate €16 inc 16 amp elec and showers. Free WiFi at or near Reception. N 39.71313   E 21.61420

It was 6 miles back to the A2 motorway (E90 Egnatia Odos), where we headed south-west for Kozani. Rain fell, with a fog warning as we climbed through a series of short tunnels into the cloud. After 15 motorway miles the toll station at the top (2,880 ft/873 m) charged €2.40. There are no service stations, just a parking area with Kantina and WC 19 miles later, after Kozani. The rain gave way to sunshine as we paused for coffee. Signs warned of bears along a 15 mile stretch and there was high net fencing to both sides of the motorway as it cut through the mountains. We exited for Grevena West, still high at 1,980 ft/600 m, after 60 miles of brand new motorway with only the one toll. A real bargain, remembering the old road along this tortuous route!

Higher peaks appeared in the distance as we drove south on rd 15, a narrow twisting mountain route that advised snow tyres in winter. We dropped to cross a river bridge, then climbed high again through a magnificent rocky landscape. After lunch in the village of Ag Theodori at 77 miles (2,600 ft/790 m), we climbed to almost 3,000 ft before hairpinning down. On through wooded hills, glowing with autumn's russet shades like copper burnished in the low winter sun. The road was empty, the only sign of life being 2 flocks of sheep, each with a man and his dog.

We met the highway from Metsovo (E92) by a large well-stocked fruit stall, down at 825 ft/250 m, and turned left for Kalambaka. Past more fruit stalls to the edge of the town, where we turned left at 104 miles, signed Meteora/Kastraki. The entrance to Vrachos (= Rock) is 2 miles along on the left, opposite Hotel France. There are several campsites in and around Kalambaka, the area famous for the Meteora Monasteries, but only two are now open in winter: the choice is Vrachos or the much smaller Camping The Cave (a little further along on the right).

Camping Vrachos is a huge place, though most of the site was closed off, being too soft and muddy. The two new toilet/shower blocks looked good but were locked up. The dismal winter facilities consisted of one old toilet for each sex, a single outside basin with hot water (seen in use for both cleaning teeth and washing up!) and two grubby shower cubicles with cold water, reluctantly heated on request. Two German vans filled the only level hard-standing area. Use of an old washing machine cost €5 (no drier – and no takers). The free WiFi only worked outside the restaurant (not serving food) and a loose dog ran around barking. The site really should not be open if that is the best it can do. It sells itself on the location, right below the Meteora Rocks with a view of the sandstone pillars. A bus for the circuit of the six monasteries open to visitors stops outside the gate. It's a popular campsite in summer, especially for climbers in tents, and has an outdoor pool.

As it was now dusk, the days being short in mid-November, we stayed, needing to fill the water tank and dump the waste before looking for somewhere better.

At Camping Vrachos Kastraki, Meteora, Kalambaka – 9 miles driven round the Meteora Circuit

Next morning we drove through Kalambaka, glad that it wasn't Friday (market day), when the narrow streets would be thronged. Along the Trikala road to Lidl (3 miles from camp), where the new in-store bakery was offering 25% off everything. M had to elbow her way in to buy savoury and sweet croissants, donuts and rolls!

Leaving the motorhome parked at the store, we walked back into the town centre to buy new maps (Road Series: Map 3 Epirus-Thessaly and Map 4 Central Greece at €7.95 each, the best we know). Also called in the ironmonger's that Jennifer runs with her Greek husband. She came here from Canada 22 years ago, after graduating in Vancouver, to teach English; married and stayed. We spent an hour talking in the shop – and only bought a washing line!

Back to Lidl for lunch in the car park before driving round the Meteora circuit,  anticlockwise like the tour buses to avoid meeting them head-on. It makes a great challenging cycle ride but not on this November day, misty and drizzling with cold rain. We passed our old favourite campsite, sadly closed down since the owners retired, and the two large icon workshops: souvenir traps where the coaches pause for free samples of loukoumi (the Greek name for Turkish delight).

Onwards and upwards to the Artemis Taverna (restaurant and guesthouse) on the right about 2 miles along. This place appears in both the Bordatlas and Camperstop Europe offering free overnight parking for customers, with hook-ups for a small fee. Hoping this would be an improvement on Camping Vrachos, Margaret went to find the owner, Kostas Arseniou. The adverts were misleading, to say the least. There were not '30 places' (Bordatlas), nor even '8 places' (Camperstop). In fact there was room for 4 to 6 vans at the most, on very sloping ground. The one German motorhome in residence was propped high on ramps. There were just 2 electric sockets on an outside wall of the Taverna, at €5 a night but only accessible with a very long lead across the public road. Kostas gave us a hard sell for the restaurant ('my mother is an excellent cook, dinner is served at 6 pm, today it is local sausage …') and added that he charged €2.50 per person for a shower, though use of the WC and WiFi inside were free.

Not tempted by the compulsory meal, we left to continue our drive round the circuit, with some superb views as the mist cleared. Having visited all the monasteries over several previous visits, we left them to the few tour groups out today. It is rightly a World Heritage site: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/455. On the descent to Kastraki, we paused to check out the only other campsite open, Camping The Cave. It proved small and rough, with basic facilities and no campers. The price was too much at €20, or €30 for 2 nights, though the man in Reception did throw in 'free coffee and free WiFi' as he tried to persuade us to stay!

Reluctantly, we returned to Camping Vrachos for a second night. Soon the German motorhome from the Artemis Taverna arrived to check in, as they couldn't face another night and meal there! There was also a noisy crowd of trainee climbers who were practising with ropes and knots around the site, since the weather was too poor for the rock face. Click here for a video of climbing on the Meteora rocks below the monasteries.

In the evening we tried the only taverna open in Kastraki, a short walk away. They served us a generous Greek salad, then chicken breast or pork chops freshly cooked over coals on an outdoor grill. Very good, apart from the luke-warm reheated chips.

Meteora to Moucha, Lake Plastira, Thessaly – 109 miles (790 m or 2,600 ft high)

Open all year. Free car park by the reservoir near the dam bridge. No facilities except a water tap. N 39.23816  E 21.75011

For more photographs, click:  http://www.magbazpictures.com/northern-mountains.html

Mist still shrouded the rock pillars of Meteora when we left, aiming to reach the Gulf of Corinth by a route on back roads through the mountains that was new to us, plotted on the maps bought yesterday. It took 3 slow days and is not recommended for anything longer than our 7 metres or for those of a nervous disposition – and certainly not for caravans!

Guided by Road Map 3: Epirus and Thessaly, we left Kalambaka on the Metsovo road, turning off left shortly after passing the right turn for Grevena.

After 18 miles the road had reached a height of 2,755 ft/835 m. It dropped a little before climbing higher through Kastania village to 4,600 ft/1392 m at 27 miles after a serpentine ascent with a 10% gradient sign. This is the Elatou Wildlife Refuge in the South Pindos Mountains, though the only animals at large were sheep, goats, cows, horses and, of course, dogs. Red and black snow poles stood ready along our way. The SatNav didn't like it, crying 'Unpaved Road', though it was roughly surfaced. We parked for lunch after 36 miles, down at 2,800 ft/850 m, by the turn-off for Haliki.

As the sun gradually penetrated the cloud, our drive continued through a high and rocky ravine by the Aspropotamos (= white river). Leaving the river after Ag Paraskevi to climb to Ag Nikolaos, we emerged from lovely deciduous golds into a sparse landscape of firs. The road was mostly good, if narrow, though two short sections had been washed away by a stream and rock falls. A tiny pilgrimage church stood by the roadside and cows were still grazing above 900 m (2,970 ft). In the village of Dessi (3,320 ft/1005 m high) we overtook a fully loaded cattle truck and trailer, with two layers of live animals on their way to lower pastures at Trikala. It was the first vehicle we'd seen on this mountain journey. A weather-beaten couple herding cattle further along the road did not return our wave – transhumance is a hard way of life.

At 4,190 ft/1270 m there was a newly built pilgrim chapel, before the larger villages of Neraidochori and Pertouli, each with a couple of well-lit tavernas and even a hotel. These were explained when we came to Pertouli Ski Centre: a car park on the main road by a deserted ski lift at 3,860 ft/1170 m. We stopped for a break and walked round: no sign of life, just some stationary logging trucks and stacks of wood. It was 3 pm and we'd managed 62 miles in about 4 hours driving!

Snow poles again marked the road as we zigzagged down to the tourist village of Elati with its hotel and souvenir shops. Continuing downhill, now below 3,300 ft/1000 m, we met a better road (from Arta) and turned left for Pili. We thought the mountains were behind us as we reached Pili at 75 miles, down at 600 ft/200 m. At Paleomonastiro we turned south for Mouzaki and Lake Plastira, climbing once again: up to 1,815 ft/550 m at Kriopigi, then 2,375 ft/720 m in Anthochori. The narrow road rose steeply through Kerasia to a maximum of 3,2285 ft/995 m, with a wonderful view of the dammed lake below.

We came down to cross the dam on a narrow bridge at the foot of Lake Plastira and were then relieved to see a large empty car and bus parking area on the left, behind an abandoned concrete tourist building of some kind. At least it was level and we'd seen nowhere better for the night. It became very dark, very cold and still, with nothing and no-one to disturb us.

Moucha to Domnista, Central Greece – 94 miles (1011 m or 3,335 ft high)

Open all year. Well-lit free parking area in front of village museum. No facilities. N 38.75873  E 21.84596

An early start after a quiet and lonely night. Heading east, after Kastania village the road climbed above the clouds to over 3,000 ft/912 m. Then it dropped steeply down round a hairpin bend to a mere 520 ft/158 m in Kallithiro, at 16 miles. Here we turned right for Zaimi, then right again (south-east) along arrow-straight roads between the cotton fields of the Thessaly Plain. What a contrast with the mountains. There were even stork nests. In Kallifonio at 20 miles we topped up with diesel: 'Pay Cash' was the only English the attendant knew!

In Kedros, 6 miles later and still below 500 ft, we parked to find bread. What a nice experience. Margaret tried the small supermarket, where the shopkeeper wouldn't let her buy the single loaf on the shelf. Another customer who spoke some English explained that it was yesterday's and not fresh. Then she led Margaret through the village to the wood-fired bakery where the loaves were still warm - and she wasn't even going that way herself. Compare with the baker's in Vergina earlier, a village living on tourists, who blatantly overcharged us!

Here we turned south, on a mountainous route towards the ski resort of Karpenissi. By Loutropigi village, at 38 miles, we were above the clouds again at 2,310 ft/700 m. A few hardy locals sat outside the café in the chilly sunshine but there was little room to park. By a wayside church, 6 miles later and up at 2,800 ft/850 m, we stopped for lunch. The new church of Ag Fanourios was locked but the lovingly fitted interior could be seen through the windows: the traditional carved wooden iconostasis with all the favourite saints, splendid chandeliers and carpets. Outside were picnic tables, a water fountain and an autumn forest view.  

Still climbing, we came to a memorial by the turning for Redina village, up at 3,300 ft/1000 m. A fighter plane was mounted above 2 marble busts of pilots, who presumably crashed into the mountainside. Onward and upward, we passed 3 separate drovers and a pack of dogs steering cattle along the road. We reached a height of 4,420 ft/1340 m before descending through lovely mixed woodlands and past a logging camp on the cloudy side of the mountains. Then after Fourna village, still up at 4,290 ft/1300 m and without warning, our road to Karpenissi was closed!

Consulting Road Map 3 (Epirus-Thessaly), we turned left on the longer and more winding route to Ag Georgios, down at 1,200 ft/363 m, where we met E952 (Lamia to Karpenissi). We had driven 69 very varied miles. Changing to Road Map 4 (Central Greece), we turned right for Karpenissi expecting a wider and easier main route, but were soon climbing a serpentine road lined with snow poles up through the tight village of Trimfristos to over 3,300 ft/1000 m.

Shortly before the new road tunnel leading on to Karpenissi, we had to turn right on the old main road in order to turn left and go south, crossing above the tunnel! We were still climbing, to 5,100 ft/1545 m (beating yesterday's maximum of 1392 m), before dropping a little through the steep village of Krikello (nowhere to park at all) and on to Domnista. On the way out of this village we were relieved to see a reasonably level paved area by the little museum (closed) and a war memorial with a date in June 1942.

It was almost 5 pm and dusk soon fell as we put the kettle on and settled down for another peaceful night. It was cold, up above 1000 m, but the blown air gas heating worked a treat and our recent evenings are absorbed watching 'Breaking Bad'.

Domnista to Kyllini, Peloponnese – 138 miles (Sea level!)

Open all year. Free parking at the harbour. WC nearby. N 37.93460 E 21.14664

Away early (a bonus of 'free camping'), heading south on another narrow mountain road leading down to Nafpaktos on the north shore of the Gulf of Corinth. The weather had changed to a slate grey sky and light rain.

Over the first 3 miles we climbed 300 m (1,000 ft) to 1312 m and had our first view of the lake/reservoir Ag Dimitriou below. Along the next stretch the road had dropped away at one side, followed by a rough mile or so of pot holes and fallen rocks, but we were encouraged to continue by 3 cars coming the other way. The SatNav repeatedly advised a U-turn as we crawled along at 15 mph.

Suddenly, at 6 miles, the road was newly laid with good tarmac! A mile later, up above 4,000 ft at 1217 m, there was a fine windswept war memorial dated 1 August 1950. It bore a crown, indicating which side it represented in the Greek Civil War between Monarchists and Communists that followed WW2. History is never far away in this country.

A dramatic serpentine descent followed, the steepest yet (first gear all the way), by Arachova on the lake, then past the turning for Neochori. The water level was low and we glimpsed the remains of drowned houses that the reservoir had claimed. Before crossing the dam bridge down at 1,685 ft/510 m we parked for coffee in a sudden heavy rainstorm. At almost 11 am we had completed just 16 miles!

The road climbed away from the lake, through Ag Dimitrios at 20 miles and up and up, reaching 3,860 ft/1170 m as thunder and lightning raged round the mountainsides. In Platanos, at 30 miles and 1,000 ft lower down (870 m), we parked by the springs for lunch, sitting out a hailstorm that was washing stones into the road.

On we went, down the bends to cross a river at a mere 1,000 ft or so (320 m) before hairpinning up again through Pokista to over 3,000 ft (928 m). Water gushed down the mountainsides forming brown waterfalls. This was a journey to remember! Descending through Simos village, the road was all but washed away. In Perivolia, still high at 2,660 ft/805 m, we were surprised to see a bus coming from Nafpaktos. The rain had stopped and there were terraced hillsides with signs of life and agriculture.

We stopped to photograph a fascinating line of very new bronze sculptures at the roadside in the middle of nowhere, at 48 miles and a height of 810 m. They depicted a refugee family on the move – mother, father, granny, 5 children, a horse, dog and cat – with some names and the date 1930. Later we searched the internet but could find no information about this poignant tableau.

For more photographs, click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/transhumance.html

As the road dropped to below 1,000 ft/300 m after Paleopirgos there were olive groves and flowering cyclamen. We were approaching the fertile shores of the Gulf of Corinth, with a first view of the water from Dafni at 59 miles and almost sea level. On meeting the coast road we turned west through the port of Nafpaktos, ignoring the bypass as we needed to shop at Lidl. Then south-west to the new bridge over the Gulf of Corinth (toll €13.20), to join the E55 motorway south past Patras. We had reached the familiar Peloponnese at last!

After bypassing Patras through a series of new tunnels, the E55 motorway ends and becomes the 2-lane 'New National Road', continuing south-west (signed Pirgos). We soon turned off at Kato Alissos, to take the 'Old National Road' and continue through Kato Achaia to the coast at Kalogria.

There is an official paying Camper Stop at Kalogria (listed in Bordatlas and Camperstop Europe), open from the beginning of April to the end of October. Out of season the gates and facilities are locked, with water and power turned off, but there is plenty of space to park freely on the road outside, a short walk from the beach. We settled here for dinner but felt uneasy after dark, with stray dogs roaming and occasional cars coming and going.

Eventually we returned to the E55, drove south a short distance to Lechena, then turned off for Killini. At the ferry harbour there is a well-lit free parking area and we settled there next to a German motorhome. It was now after midnight.

In our 3-day journey through the mountains from Kalambaka, we travelled at least 3 times the distance a crow would have flown, with new roads and new experiences the whole way. The Carado had performed perfectly and we're very satisfied with having 'downsized' from a series of 6-ton RVs and vans pulling caravans. Lower fuel consumption is also a bonus, even when mountaineering.

Kyllini to Camping Ionion Beach, Glifa, Peloponnese – 11 miles

Open all year. www.ionion-beach.gr. ACSI Card rate €16 inc 16 amp elec and very hot showers in heated bathrooms. (Winter €15, or long-term deal with metered electricity possible.) Free WiFi (300 MB daily limit). N 37.83640   E 21.13340

We awoke to a view of ferries coming in and out of the harbour, serving the Ionian Islands of Zakynthos and Kefallonia (spellings vary for this, the island of Captain Corelli). It was warm and windy as we strolled round to collect ferry timetables before driving up the hill to park in Kastro village and walk up to the fortress.

Chlemoutsi Castle, visible from miles around on its hilltop overlooking the harbour, was built in the 13th century when the Franks ruled this part of the Principate of Morea (Peloponnese). Over several visits, usually cycling up from the campsite at Ionion Beach, we've seen it transformed from a crumbling ruin with free entry (at your own risk). Now, still undergoing impressive renovation, it has opening hours (8.30 am-3 pm, closed Mondays) and a small entry fee (€3, or €2 for Seniors). There is a rough parking area but it's advisable not to attempt the short steep lane from the village in anything bigger than a car. The site is well worth a visit, even when closed, just for the view over the harbour and across to the islands.

We were amazed by the work in progress, the small museum (opened since our last visit) and the quality of the new information panels and signs in Greek and English. Chateau Clermont (Chlemoutsi), was built in 1220-23 by Geoffrey I de Villehardouin to guard the port of Glarenza (Killini) and the capital of the Principate at nearby Andravida. After the Franks, the castle was variously held by Turks, Greeks, Venetians, Turks again, until the National Uprising in 1821. It finally suffered major damage during bombardment by Pasha Ibrahim in 1825. See http://www.ask.com/wiki/Chlemoutsi for a full history. For more photographs, click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/chlemoutsi-castle1.html

From Kastro we drove down to Lygia and on through Glifa, past the right turn for Camping Aginara, taking the next right for Ionion Beach - our favourite site in the whole of Greece, owned and run by the friendly Fligos Family. We settled on a sea-front pitch, chatted with the Sikh gardener/handyman from the Punjab and met the three winter-resident Austro-German couples who we've known for many years.

In the afternoon we enjoyed the luxury of good hot showers, did the laundry (dry in no time on the line) and washed the motorhome down after its long journey. Then it was time to relax, with a meatloaf for supper.

At Camping Ionion Beach, Glifa

For more photographs, click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/at-ionion-beach.html

A week of mild weather followed, ideal for short cycle rides in the local hills, walking the beach, and driving into Vartholomio (5 miles) or Amaliada (17 miles) to shop.

Walking: We strolled along the shore to Camping Aginara, its overgrown pitches empty and forlorn, returning round the lanes. Pickers were busy harvesting olives, pruning the trees and taking sacks of olives by tractor to the local mills at Lygia, Kastro, Macho and Vranas – all working on full power. In the lemon groves the plentiful fruit was still ripening.

A longer beach walk in the other direction to the little harbour of Porto Glifa involved some scrambling, as the waves had exposed the rocks that lay below the sand and undercut the holiday shacks. The offshore island of Zakynthos makes a wonderful backdrop to the seascape: sometimes clear, sometimes lost in mist, bathed in the reds and golds of the setting sun, twinkling with lights at night. An ever-changing view from our pitch and the subject of many photographs.

Amaliada: To shop at Carrefour (for delicious spit-roast chicken) and Lidl (all the seasonal goodies: Stollen cake, chocolate covered marzipans and gingerbreads, Gluehwein …). Our visit to the Pikantika restaurant, where we've enjoyed many a lunch of chicken & chips, was the only disappointment. The genial old owner seems to have been replaced by his son, prices have risen and chickens have shrunk! We won't be back.