A Motorhome Journey North from Greece through the Balkans
Towards the UK from the Peloponnese through Northern Greece, the Republic of
Macedonia, Serbia, Croatia and Slovenia
Margaret & Barry
Williamson
April 2015
Introduction After a winter motorhoming in the Greek Peloponnese, we cross the Gulf of Corinth on the splendid bridge near Patras, and head north on what will be for us a new overland route back to the UK. Our overall aim is for a journey taking us through Macedonia (Republic of), Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, Germany, France, Ireland, Scotland and so into England. The whole journey is summarised and linked together at: A European Journey 2014-2015 In this Travel Log, we describe the journey through the Balkans from Northern Greece through Serbia, Macedonia, Croatia and Slovenia into Austria. See the article describing our previous routes: To Greece by Sea or by Land. Already we are thinking of a ferry from England to the Netherlands and a summer in Scandinavia. We'll see.
Continued from: In Greece in the Spring of 2015 Continued at: From Slovenia to Ireland 2015
IN NORTHERN GREECE
Akrata, Gulf of Corinth to Camping
Limnopoula, Ioannina, Epiros 173 miles (at 1,520 ft or 460 m high)
Open April to mid-Oct. 18 inc
10 amp elec and (poor) showers. Free WiFi.
N 39.67798 E 20.84353
On 5 April (Easter Sunday in 'Catholic' Europe, falling a week earlier
than the Orthodox festival) we said goodbye to Manoulis and Toula, owners of
the excellent Camping Akrata Beach. Other motorhomes (German, Swiss and French)
were starting to arrive for the holidays, especially as 'Camping on Board' is
now available on the ferries from Italy (from 1 April). They would be
disappointed by the dull cold weather.
Six miles west along the Old National Rd, we joined the 'motorway' still
being built towards Patras: a dangerously busy 2-lane highway with bollards
down the centre, no overtaking and speed limits (largely ignored). At least
there were no further tolls, having paid 6.30 on the earlier section from
Corinth to Akrata, and the roads were remarkably quiet.
At 35 miles we took the exit for the magnificent Rio Bridge that spans
the Gulf of Corinth (toll 13.20), finally leaving the Peloponnese and crossing
over to Antirrio and turned west. Coffee break at the Olympus Plaza at 39
miles: large service areas on both sides of the main road, open 24 hrs, with
fuel, LPG, cafes etc and plenty of parking space that would be OK for overnight,
if a bit noisy. Staying on the main road, we bypassed Messolongi, turning north
through an area of lagoons with strawberry sellers lining the road.
At 65 miles we joined the A5/E55, a section of 4-lane motorway that is
actually finished (no toll, no traffic). After 20 miles of wonderful smooth
tarmac we were back on the old main road. Amfilochia at 98 miles is a busy town
at the SE corner of the Amvrakikas Gulf, where you can turn off west for
Preveza and Igoumenitsa. Our route was north on E951, the road running high
above the eastern shore towards Arta. We lunched 12 miles later, in the layby
outside a (closed) restaurant overlooking the Gulf, as rain set in.
Further north another completed section of 4-lane motorway bypassed
Arta, then deposited us back on the E951, which made its scenic way up a wooded
river valley, dotted with trout farms and restaurants. There were icy road
warnings as we climbed to almost 2,000 ft (602 m) before the descent to
Ioannina.
Camping Limnopoula, at the Boat Club by the lake in Ioannina, is a site
we know of old: overpriced, with dismal worn-out facilities and uncaring staff.
Last time we were in Ioannina we preferred to park overnight at an Avin
services on the Ring Road and had intended to do the same again. However, rain
was now lashing down, thunder rumbling and more importantly Margaret was
feeling quite unwell. So we decided to go for the (minimal) comforts of the
campsite, with internet and electricity. The less said about the toilets and
showers, the better.
To reach the site it's best to avoid the SatNav route through the busy
university city. Instead, take the Ring Road (well signed) to the west of the
city, round to the airport, then a short way south back along the lake towards
the city, looking out for the camp entrance on the left. Nothing has changed in
years at this bare empty campsite, except that the free city-wide WiFi is
available. A note in the closed Reception window said 'Back at 4 pm'. It was
well after 4 pm! Barry parked on the road as far back from the brimming lake as
possible, given that it was still pouring down, and Margaret went to bed,
running a high temperature.
Barry called at Reception, but the miserable occupant wanted our
passports to keep until tomorrow! No way we might never see them again! He
eventually proposed a charge of 18 (too much, though the official price is
24), but couldn't take any money because he didn't have the registration book.
Barry agreed to return in the morning with the money.
We had a far from restful night, alone by a stormy lake. Margaret tried
to eat scrambled eggs on toast, which came back, and continued to be feverish.
Looks like a nasty dose of flu.
Ioannina to Camping Drepanos,
Igoumenitsa, Epiros 61 miles (Sea level)
Open all year. ACSI Card 16
inc 16 amp elec and (disgusting) showers. Free WiFi. N 39.50821
E 20.22213
Next morning the
rain had stopped. M's temperature was down and she felt a little better, though
we both had throbbing headaches. Unwilling to spend a second night on the godforsaken
site at Ioannina, we decided to drive down to Igoumenitsa, where the ACSI Card
2015 book has a new entry for 'recently refurbished' Camping Drepanos. Here Margaret
could recover and decide whether to continue across the Balkans or take the
easy way and take a ferry to Italy.
So we drove back
round the Ioannina Ring Road, called at Lidl for essential supplies, then took
the superb, finished, empty A2 motorway down to the port of Igoumenitsa. An
engineering marvel of tunnels and flyover, all for one toll of 2.40.
From the port it
was another 6 miles, along the busy waterfront and out to the campsite at the
end of a sandspit on the north side of the bay. The entrance and new Reception
building looked promising as we checked in with the charming young student
intern. She had to phone her boss to ask what the ACSI Card meant, then tried
to add on 3 for electricity. 'NO, it's included.' 'Are you sure?' 'YES.'
The large site
was empty, apart from old permanent caravans, their rough and ready plastic covers
flapping in the wind, taking up all the best pitches along the waterfront. The
grassy surface was too soft and muddy after rain, so we parked on the roadway,
the sole occupants. Again we had a hook-up and WiFi, and that was all. The
'recently refurbished' facilities were disgusting beyond belief in fact, a
downright lie. They were as bad as any we have seen (but not used) and that is
saying something!
As there was no
point in complaining to the Intern, Margaret gathered strength to send an ACSI
Review:
Very disappointed with this
'recently refurbished' site (ACSI Camping Card book 2015). Refurbishing the
toilet/shower blocks meant whitewashing the outside walls, and that is all.
Inside the toilets were dirty, some Turkish-style, some without seats, no
paper, wet floors strewn with leaves and debris. I wouldn't even think of using
the showers. The outdoor laundry and wash-up sinks had only cold water and were
half full of rubbish and grimy water.
Free WiFi and an electric hook-up
were the only usable facilities. This site should not be open in winter if this
is all it can offer. Shop and restaurant closed until 1 May.
The sea-front pitches were all
taken up with tatty old permanent caravans covered in plastic sheeting that
flapped in the wind. The rest of the site was soft grass, muddy after rain. We
parked on the roadway for one night and won't be returning.
This was not the
place for recuperation! Perhaps it looks better in the summer, though the beach
was scruffy and mosquitoes already a problem.
We had a light
supper and an early night, determined to move on tomorrow.
Igoumenitsa to Boutique Hotel Philippion, Florina,
West Macedonia (Greece) 179 miles (at 2,145 ft or 650 m high)
Open all year. www.hotelphilippion.gr Room &
generous breakfast buffet, 45 for 2. Free WiFi. N 40.78856 E 21.41038 Next morning M's gastric flu was downgraded to a heavy cold and Barry
felt fine. In Igoumenitsa we bought a new digital thermometer and a supply of soluble
Paracetamol + Vitamin C (as recommended by the Pharmacist) , then drove
back on the A2/E90: the wonderful Egnatia Odos toll motorway, now
complete all the way past Thessaloniki and Alexandroupolis to the Turkish
border (total length about 670 km or 420 miles). The rain turned heavy as we climbed up into the hills through short
tunnels, with a toll of 2.40 at 35 miles. After the Dodoni Tunnel at 2,290 ft
(694 m), we passed the exit for Ioannina and continued on the A2 for Grevena.
The next toll booth at 53 miles was not in use. There was a marvellous view of
Ioannina and the lake below us as we climbed ever higher, through a 4-km
tunnel, then numerous shorter ones that gave relief from the rain. This route
bypasses Metsovo, up in the mountains, where the old highway we'd previously
taken from Ioannina is Greece's highest road. We drove through a hailstorm at 2,640 ft (800 m). Exiting another tunnel (5.3 km long) at 3,590 ft (1088 m), the day's maximum height, it was foggy
and snowing. At least the traffic was light! A second toll of 2.40 at 78
miles, still above 3,500 ft, with heavier snow settling on the verges and an
'icy road warning' on our dashboard. The road gradually descended, through an
unbelievable number of short tunnels, down to 1,980 ft (600 m) at Grevena. Here
we saw the first road sign for 'Bears Crossing' - and we believed it in these
high mountains. This motorway is an engineering miracle, though the designers did
forget about essential services. There had been no fuel and only one rest area
since Igoumenitsa. At last, after driving 110 miles, we stopped at the second
rest area for lunch (just parking, plus insanitary toilets). At 130 miles, after Kozani, we turned off north onto A27 (signed
Skopje): a good 4-lane highway for 14 miles as far as Ptolemaida, then a 2-lane
road. It passed through a desolate industrial area of mining, cement works and
power stations, the cooling towers creating huge clouds. Disused quarries
scarred the landscape and the villages looked poor and depressed. Turning west
for Florina, it was still snowing and bitterly cold. We stopped at a large Lidl store on the way into town, busy with
shoppers from the Republic of Macedonia (we're about 10 miles from the border).
Last time we came this way, we parked overnight by a petrol station at the
Greek side of the border but it had been far from peaceful. This time we found
several hotels in Florina on the SatNav and made our way to the nearest, the
Philippion 2 miles away, to check the possibilities of eating and parking
there, or taking a room. The hotel was open for bed & breakfast (restaurant closed), had a
well-lit car park with security camera, and offered a lovely warm en-suite room
with WiFi and TV and breakfast buffet included. We could even see the motorhome
from our window. It was late and still snowing outside. Done! So good to relax
with a hot shower and sleep well before the next stage of the journey. Florina to Perla Hotel, Struga, Lake Ohrid,
Republic of Macedonia 139 miles (at 2,410 ft or 730 m high) Open all year. Room & cooked
breakfast, 35 for 2. Free WiFi. N 41.17386
E 20.67058 Breakfast at the Philippion Hotel was splendid: a hot and cold buffet
with juice, cornflakes, yogurt, eggs, cheese, pastries, rolls etc. All for us
and one other guest! On leaving we were presented with a bottle of red wine
with the words Kalo Pascha (Happy Easter) the Greek holiday starts
tomorrow. We promised to return (hopefully not today, though!) It was 12 miles north on E65N to the Greek/Macedonian border. On the
way we saw our first pair of storks of the year, returned to their nest in the
village of Ano Kalliniki. Always a good omen. FROM GREECE INTO THE REPUBLIC
OF MACEDONIA 1. Put clocks back one hour. 2. Headlights compulsory on all roads 24 hrs a day. 3. Currency Macedonian Denar (MKD). 1 approx 60
MKD. £1 approx 85 MKD. Euros generally accepted. 4. British-registered vehicles need to buy 3rd
party insurance at border: 15 days (the minimum) cost 50 + 5 admin fee,
payable in Euros in cash (or 70 + 5 for a month). This was for any car or
motorhome, regardless of size. 5. The Cyrillic alphabet is used (as in
Bulgaria), though some road signs also have the name in Latin script. 6. There are regular small tolls on the motorways payable in euros or local currency. Typically 1, 1.5 or 2 each time, so have plenty of small change.
After exiting Greece, the Macedonian border guard could not have been
friendlier. 'I have brother in America. I am sorry you must buy insurance,
maybe not after next year. Go to the Post Office over there. Enjoy your stay.'
In the Post Office, the same friendly welcome from the English-speaking staff,
who apologised and thought there should be a smaller fee for a short transit,
but they could do nothing about it. Armed with an insurance certificate for a 'Ford Transit Caravan' (oddly
headed 'Croatia Osiguranje'), we were allowed to continue into what the Greeks
insist on calling FYROM (Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia), to distinguish
it from Greek Macedonia. Continuing towards Bitola, we paused after 8 Macedonian miles at the
remains of Heraclea (Ancient Bitola), signed on the left, down a short lane
below snowy mountain peaks. See Heraclea-lyncestis.
Founded by Philip II (father of Alexander the Great) in the 4th C BC, Heraclea
developed into an important town on the Roman Road Via Ignatia. The Italian
government helped with excavation and restoration work here in 2008 and it has
some lovely mosaic floors, etc. The guardian came out and would have accepted
5 entry for the two of us (even offering 100 MKD in change). Since it was
snowing again and we had visited the site before we didn't linger, but were
impressed again by the friendly welcome. We drove through the country's second largest city, Bitola, with its many
historic associations. During the Ottoman Empire, it shared with Salonica the
rule of the Ottoman province of Rumelia, and Kemal Ataturk studied at the
military academy here. There is still a Turkish bazaar and mosque in the
centre. During WW2, the Germans and later Bulgarians took control of Bitola
until November 1944, when the Macedonian Liberation Brigade entered the city.
The Jews Gate commemorates the 3,000 Jews taken from the city to their deaths
in Treblinka. Continuing north-west from Bitola (signed Ohrid), the road climbed
above 3,000 ft, with snow lying on the fields. The village churches were
Russian Orthodox, the alphabet Cyrillic, and the red & yellow flag with the
12-pointed Macedonian star flew proud. We got lots of friendly waves and toots.
The scenery was magnificent; the road pretty rough in places but it had been
gritted and cleared of snow. After a col at 3,800 ft (1150 m), we took the
Tranzit route round Resen. Here we noticed the church of St Cyril and St
Methodius (the brother monks born in 9th century Thessalonica, responsible for
devising the Cyrillic alphabet in order to translate the Greek bible for the
Slavs). We also saw a mosque and minaret, and women in Moslem dress. At the top of the next pass, 39 miles since the border, up at 3,960 ft
(1200 m), we parked for a quick lunch, watched by a lonely stray dog. Icicles
hung from the snowy roof of an abandoned hut and we were glad to descend, on a
better road twisting down towards Ohrid. A line of sheep were being led across
the hillside like a line of processionary caterpillars. Bypassing the town of Ohrid, we continued west to Struga at the top of
Lake Ohrid a deep glacial lake, the oldest in Europe. Tiny Camping Rino, our
first choice, looked closed and deserted. Returning to Ohrid, we drove on down
the east side of the lake, where we had once stayed at Camping Gradishte near
Pestan. We did find it but closed and locked! Continuing down the lake, past
the 'Gulf of Bones, Museum on Water', then over a 2,970 ft (900 m) pass in the
Galicia National Park, we went on to look at Camping Ljubanista. Closed and
spooky with stray dogs. A little further along, at St Naum just short of the
Albanian border, there is a car park, cafι and souvenir stalls. It's a popular
place in summer but now (just 2 days before Orthodox Easter) it was empty and
closed up. Not wanting to spend the night here alone, we returned to Ohrid. In Ohrid we looked at parking by the marina (small and full of cars),
then at the Bus/Truck Park nearby (empty, with the barrier closed and no guard
in the pay-kiosk). It was still bitterly cold. As we returned to Struga, where
we'd noticed the Perla Hotel and Restaurant, we saw a convoy being led by a
police car in the opposite direction. They waved it was the German 'gang of
three' who had left Camping Finikes in Finikounda at the end of December, and
met us again at Triton II in Drepano! One fifth-wheeler (Celtic Rambler),
one caravan and one motorhome! We did wonder where the police were taking them,
but were unable to turn and follow.
At the Perla Hotel (yes, there are pearls in Lake Ohrid) we found safe
parking round the side and made enquiries. We could park overnight and eat in
the pizza restaurant or of course take a room. The room was lovely and we
cooked our own supper in the motorhome. The WiFi worked well and M was feeling
much better.
Struga, Lake Ohrid, to Camping Bellevue (at
Best Western Hotel), nr Skopje, Republic of Macedonia 120 miles (at 965 ft or
292 m high)
Open all year. Camp
Bellevue, Skopje. 25.27 inc
electricity. Free WiFi. N 41.99694 E 21.55026
After a hotel
breakfast of orange juice, cheese omelette, toast and coffee, we drove 5 miles
back towards Ohrid to join E65/M4 for Skopje. At this end it's a rough 2-lane
road, destined to become a motorway some day.
We climbed
gradually, snow lying on the verges above 1,000 ft, then zigzagged higher to
3,585 ft (1087 m). The snow lay deeper on the north side of the mountains,
covering the fields as we hairpinned down, but snow ploughs kept the road
clear. At Izvor the E65 turned east, then north again at Kicevo, a poor town
where pencil-slim minarets marked the mosques.
There was a
bitterly cold head wind, though it remained sunny and dry as we continued north
through more Muslim settlements, with mosques, covered cemeteries and women in Islamic
dress, reminding us of Turkish villagers. We saw no churches in this area,
though we passed a large new memorial and cemetery under the Albanian flag.
Indeed Albanian flags flew all along this valley. The road looped up to a
higher pass with a fuel station at 4,010 ft (1215 m), snow banked high at the
edges. As we descended we didn't envy a pair of heavily laden male
cycle-tourists labouring up the hill towards us, wearing shorts.
After 65 miles we
reached Gostivar (down at 1,850 ft or 560 m), a larger town with both churches
and mosques. Continuing through on E65, we parked for a lunch break outside the
(closed) Royal Hotel. Then we joined the M4 toll road (named Mother Theresa) to
Skopje. No-one could resent the regular small charges along the straight level
4-lane dual carriageway, a much easier drive than the route we'd just followed
from Lake Ohrid through the snowy Balkans. We paid 3 tolls of 1 each, then
1.50 before the Tranzit Peripherique round the north side of Skopje, the
capital. (Of course, we could have paid in MKD if we'd changed any.) Minarets
stood proud in the villages along the way and we passed an exit for Pristina
(Kosovo).
The traffic was
fairly orderly and it was satisfying to see one exceptionally fast car streak
past on the ring road, only to be stopped by the Police a bit further along.
After joining E75, north towards the Serbian border, we took the exit right by
the Best Western Hotel/Camping Bellevue , clearly visible from the motorway.
The campsite,
next to the hotel, resembled a minigolf course, with short narrow concrete
strips laid out between areas of lawn and flowers! It had electric hook-ups,
non-potable water, toilets and cold showers, but it did provide a safe guarded
place for the night and the free hotel WiFi worked in the motorhome. With
double rooms in the rather grim hotel costing 90, we opted to camp, our only
neighbour a Romanian who slept in his car.
Storks nested on
the hotel tower and there were plenty of birds to watch including Hoopoe,
Goldfinch and Blackcap, right by a motorway linking two capital cities!
Skopje, Republic of Macedonia to Hotel Aqua
Etno Dvorac, Paracin, Serbia 170 miles (at 470 ft or 143 m high)
Open all year. Bed and
breakfast 45 for 2. Free WiFi. N 43.85855
E 21.43155
Next morning
dawned much warmer. After washing the motorhome down, we headed north up the
4-lane E75 motorway, with 2 tolls (total 3) before leaving Macedonia. We
passed an oil refinery, sheep grazing in the fields, then minarets marking the
town of Kumanovo, with several petrol stations (fuel is cheaper here) before
the Serbian border at 24 miles.
FROM REPUBLIC OF MACEDONIA
INTO SERBIA
1. Headlights compulsory 24 hrs a day on all
roads. 2. Currency Serbian Dinar (RSD). 1 approx 120
RSD. £1 approx 165 RSD. Euros generally accepted. 3. British-registered vehicles are now fully
covered by their own insurance in Serbia: just show insurance certificate
papers at border. 4. The Cyrillic alphabet is used on older road
signs, though most now have the name in Latin script. 5. There are regular small tolls on the
motorways, payable in Euros or local currency. Carry plenty of small change.
Approaching the
border we saw nothing of the bands of illegal immigrants rumoured to be walking
through the Balkans, apart from one poorly dressed Muslim woman clutching a
baby. She ran across the road, climbed a barrier in front of us and
disappeared. What would become of her? Exiting Macedonia
with a passport check, we joined a short queue to enter Serbia, bypassing a
long line of trucks. Another passport check, a look inside by Customs
officials, scrutiny of our insurance document and we were on our way. This was the
first time we had motorhomed in Serbia, though en route to Istanbul from the
UK, we had cycled across the country when it was part of Yugoslavia in the Iron
Curtain days. The Serbian E75
was mainly a smooth 4-lane motorway, with a few sections of good 2-lane road.
As our friend Martin Jeffes (of Camping Sakar Hills in eastern Bulgaria) said:
'it beats the hell out of going via Romania' at least as far as road surfaces
go! Life went on in
the villages as it always has, with beehives, hand-made haystacks in the
fields, the odd cow, shepherds watching their flocks, fishing in ponds, bicycles
for local transport. Sometimes a mosque, sometimes a Christian church and
cemetery. At 50 miles, north of Vranje, we saw a sign for Camping Enigma but
didn't investigate. E75 continued north up a broad river valley, alongside the
railway and old road, climbing to 1,255 ft (380 m) with a dusting of snow on
the surrounding hills. At 63 miles in
Bojkinska we passed a new cafι with TIR Parking. In Dzep, 9 miles later after a
section of old road through a gorge, we stopped for lunch opposite Motel/Cafι
Rosa, which was popular with passing coaches. Still above 1,000 ft at 330 m. In
the layby was a memorial to 2 young men (aged 30 and 33 in 2011), with a photo
of their shiny black sports car. On past Predajne,
where the motel and services had a very sloping car park. Leaving mosques and
minarets behind, we now saw only Orthodox churches and even a couple of stalls
selling Ikone (icon paintings) at the roadside. From Grdelica onwards
the motorway was complete and we paid our first Serbian toll (2.50) at 108
miles. After passing Nis
(signed 'Birthplace of Constantine the Great'), we paused at the Nais Hotel but
it was closed and abandoned. Continuing, we paid 1 exit toll to check out the
Morava Hotel: closed for renovation and soon to re-open as the Bosphorus Hotel.
At 160 miles in Pojate we left the motorway again (toll 2) to find another
night halt suggested on the internet: 'Snikbar Aleksander' - a nice little
restaurant which might have been good, but it too had died! Ten miles further
we exited the motorway at Paracin (toll 1), with a Truckstop parking and
restaurant right by the exit. However, it looked crowded and noisy so we drove a mile into Paracin in
search of a quiet night's rest. The first hotel
we came to, the oddly named and oppressively twee Aqua Etno Dvorac, had a good
car park and we took a large room with modern bathroom, WiFi and satellite TV.
The proprietors spoke no known language but the waitress had some German.
Margaret cooked supper in the motorhome. Paracin to Camping Dunav, Zemun, Nr
Belgrade, Serbia 107 miles (at 320 ft or 97 m high) Open April-Nov. Camp
Dunav. 2,192 RSD (approx 18.27) inc electricity and hot showers. Free
WiFi. Pay in RSD cash or by credit card not Euros. N 44.87820
E 20.35597 Breakfast (we
were alone) comprised coffee, rolls and a huge platter of cold meats, smoked
sausage and salami. No cheese, eggs, fruit, juice, jam or anything else
Serbia is not a country for vegetarians! We tried a little ham and left the
rest, leaving the waitress puzzled that we took only the rolls with us! Not the
best hotel on the journey but at least we got a good rest. It was less than
a mile back to the E75, where we took a toll ticket and continued north-west on
a good motorway with regular service stations. A fill of diesel at an Eko
station cost 141.9 RSD per litre, approx 1.18, paid by credit card. The
highway ran through the valley of the overflowing Velika Morava, a river that
joins the Danube to the east of Belgrade. Grey heron fished from its banks. At 35 miles there
was a motel, by the exit for Markovac. Then the Velika Plana services on the
opposite side of the motorway had a McDonald's, where a few motorhomers have reported
stopping for free WiFi and an overnight. At last we turned west for Belgrade, passing
the smart Motel Jerina on the opposite carriageway a motel that we had been
warned to avoid. See
the full story at Serbian Motel Scam. Just past the
Hotel Hedonic (which looked OK), at 88 miles we paid the only toll of the day
(6.50). Then we were hit by the view of the Serbian capital, a high-rise shock
of flats and cathedral, after spending so long among villages and small towns.
The E75 took us straight through the centre of the city, bridging the Sava
River, following signs for Novi Sad. We turned off the motorway at Zemun Polje and
used the SatNav to find Camping Dunav, just a mile from our exit. The site lies
along a high bank above the Danube, 3 km from Zemun and 10 km from Belgrade. It was good to be
greeted by a friendly English-speaking warden, who stopped cutting the grass to
show us round. Although there were no other campers (despite tomorrow being
Orthodox Easter Sunday), he assured us that we would be quite safe, with gates
locked and a night watchman on duty later. There was free WiFi, potable water,
clean toilets, and use of a hot shower in the hostel, since the main boiler had
not been lit. After looking at the site plan, Margaret asked if there was a
washing machine. 'Sorry, no.' 'There is a picture of one' she said. 'Well,
there is a picture of a swimming pool and we don't have that either. It's an
old plan.' Nice sense of humour! We pitched with a
view of the Danube below, watched the passing barges and made a meal. At Camping Dunav, Zemun, Nr Belgrade, Serbia
A rest day on
Orthodox Easter Sunday, when we were joined by a lone Bulgarian campervan. In the morning we
set out to cycle along the Danube Cycle Path into Belgrade, but there was a
cold strong head wind and we found we had to ride along a busy road to Zemun
before gaining the riverside path. After a short distance we gave up and turned
back to the campsite. It was good to have time to update the travel log, write
emails and make a mandarin cheesecake. Zemun, Serbia (across Croatia) to Camping
Spa Terme Catez, Catez ob Savi, Slovenia 270 miles (at 465 ft or 141 m high) Open all year. www.terme-catez.si/en/ 42.08
inc taxes, 10 amp elec, hot showers, entry to thermal pools (whether
wanted or not.) Free WiFi. N 45.88988 E
15.63044 On a fine sunny
Orthodox Easter Monday (a Serbian holiday) we returned one mile to the E75, to
join the westbound E70 motorway 4 miles later. We continued past Belgrade
airport and across an open flat agricultural plain at a constant 310 ft (95 m),
relieved by small villages and occasional industrial parks. The churches,
houses and storks were reminiscent of Hungary, to which this area once
belonged. At 65 miles we
paid a toll of 4.50 by the last Serbian service station, 4 miles before the
border into Croatia. FROM SERBIA INTO CROATIA 1. Headlights compulsory 24 hrs a day on all
roads. 2. Currency Croatian Kuna (HRK): 1 approx 7.6
HRK. £1 approx 10.5 HRK. Euros may be accepted. 3. Croatia is now a member of the EU (though not
the Eurozone), so British-registered vehicles are fully covered by their own
insurance. 4. The language is Serbo-Croat, using the Latin
alphabet. 5. There are regular tolls on the motorways,
payable in Euros (change given in Euros) or local currency.
After the usual
checks at the double border post, a sign Dobro Dosli welcomed us to
Croatia. So did Vodafone, with the welcome text that we were now back in their
'Europe Zone 1', making calls considerably cheaper than they would have been in
Macedonia or Serbia! The 4-lane A3 motorway was smooth and new, the outside
temperature 22°C, daffodils and tulips bloomed - and the SatNav listed a Lidl
ahead. Leaving the
motorway at 90 miles (toll 3), it was another 2 miles to Lidl in Zupanje. The
town lies on the Sava River, the border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.
It was a good store with its own bakery, and credit cards accepted. Margaret
was a happy shopper, before making lunch in the generous car park. Back on the
E70/A3 we continued west past Slavonski Brod, along the northern border of
Bosnia-Herzegovina and the Republic of Srpska. By 4 pm it was hot (25°C) and we
were still down at around 330 ft (100 m), the Sava meandering across the flat
plain. Near Ivanic-Grad was a small oilfield with 7 'nodding donkeys'. Croatian
campsites all lie along the coast and we saw nowhere suitable for the night on
our route along the A3. We did notice Camping/Motel Plitvice at Lucko, 7 miles
south-west of Zagreb, but it looked shabby and swamped with coach parties. Our
friend Graham Peacock (the Caravan Club's Croatian expert) had warned of a
break-in while parked there in 2007. So we drove on,
paying a toll of 21.37 before following A3 round the south and west of the
capital, over the Sava River and past Zagreb airport. The service station at
261 miles (2 miles before the Slovenian frontier) sold Slovenian vignettes, so
we bought one there to save time at the border. There was one last toll of
1.10 before entering Slovenia. Croatia had been a long flat drive, on a good
motorway. FROM CROATIA INTO SLOVENIA 1. Headlights compulsory 24 hrs a day on all
roads. 2. Currency Euros. 3. Slovenia is a member of the EU, so
British-registered vehicles are fully covered by their own insurance. 4. The language is Serbo-Croat, using the Latin
alphabet. 5. There are regular tolls on the excellent
motorways for vehicles over 3.5 tons (including motorhomes). Vehicles under 3.5
tons (like us) do not pay tolls but have to buy and display a Vignette. We paid
16 for the 7-day minimum.
After a passport
check at the double border (between 2 EU countries!), we took the E70 motorway
for 5 miles to the exit for Catez ob Savi (Catez on the Sava). The final 2
miles to the huge spa resort/casino/hotel/campsite was well signed. As expected, the
tariff was outrageous but it was getting late after a long 3-country day! The
sour-faced Receptionist would not budge on a price that included entry tickets
to the thermal pools, whether we wanted them or not (we didn't). Not surprisingly,
there was only one other motorhome (Italian) on the large campsite. We did
point out that the resort would make a lot more money from passing campers if
they charged a reasonable price, with pool entry an optional extra, but she did
not want to know. We were issued with a list of 21 Campsite Rules in 5
languages, ending 'We Wish You a Pleasant Stay'!! The only
alternative would have been a motorway service station, so we reluctantly paid
up for a peaceful night. Catez ob Savi to Camping Bled, Bled,
Slovenia 101 miles (at 1,580 ft or 479 m high) Open 1 April to mid-Oct. www.camping-bled.com ACSI Card 19.28 inc taxes (plus a one-off 2
registration fee), 16 amp elec, superb showers. Free WiFi. N 46.36155 E 14.08066 Back to the
A2/E70 and west towards Ljubljana. The scenery was immediately prettier than the
flat drive across Serbia and inland Croatia, with wooded hillsides and tidy
villages. Slovenia, the 'Sunny Side of the Alps, is a mini-Austria in all but
language. The excellent motorway climbed gradually through a few short tunnels
to over 1,000 ft (300 m). At the regular toll points we simply drove
through the Vinjeta lane without stopping, the Vignette displayed on the
windscreen. After 47 miles we
refuelled (diesel 1.197 a litre) at the Podsmereka
Services at N45.94805 E 14.77065.
This has a small area for motorhomes providing water, a dump and 4 electric
points free of charge. There are also good toilets, and hot showers costing 3
for 15 minutes. It's listed in 'Camperstop Europe' as suitable for a free overnight.
Further along A2,
we bypassed Ljubljana on the A1 Ring to the west of the capital (5 miles of
busy circulating traffic), then continued north-west on A2 past Kranj airport.
Snowy alpine peaks came into view as we climbed steadily to 1,600 ft (480 m) and
took exit 3 (Lesce) at 97 miles. A final 4 miles west to the lakeside tourist
town of Bled and its well-signed campsite at the far end of the lake.
The site has
excellent facilities (including a free dog shower and a dishwasher costing 1),
all kinds of sporting activities, a shop and a nice restaurant with a terrace
overlooking the lake. If only it had more marked level pitches, clear of mud
and trees! For the first time in months we were on a busy site, popular with
several nationalities. It was strange to see other motorhomes again, including
a monstrous Carthago from GB as well as the tiny tents used by French climbers.
Eventually we
settled between Italians and Germans, had a late lunch, then made full use of
the free WiFi.
At Camping Bled, Bled, Slovenia
Next morning we
caught up on laundry, hanging it out to dry in warm sunshine. Also introduced
ourselves to the campsite managers, Nejc and Nika, to pass on greetings from
our mutual friend, Graham Peacock. They were delighted to hear news of Graham
and presented us with a souvenir of our visit a hand-made plaque of Bled
Castle fashioned in rich dark chocolate.
It looked too good to eat but they insisted we must!
After lunch a short cycle ride
(7 km) clockwise around the lake, only pausing for an ice cream. The footpath
was a broad paved track into Bled, though narrower and sometimes gravel on the
way back. The castle, perched high above the lake, is the oldest in Slovenia and Lake Bled with
its island monastery is picture-perfect. The town was packed with tour groups
from all nations, large coaches pushing their way along the main street to
deposit passengers by the lake for boat trips. And this is mid-week in April
it must be hell in August! In past visits we've escaped the crowds by turning up
the Bohinj Valley to the Triglavski National Park - 20 miles south-east from
Bled - to Bohinska Bistrica and Lake Bohinj, where there are more campsites.
In the evening we
celebrated M's birthday, which fell 5 days ago in Serbia, with a very good meal
at the campsite restaurant. The only diners, we enjoyed chicken fillet with
creamy cheese sauce, roast potatoes and salad, followed by chocolate mousse
with strawberries and cream. The waiter also brought complimentary glasses of
the local blackcurrant liqueur, good and sweet. A fine celebration for
completing our route through the Balkans.
Bled, Slovenia (across Austria) to Camping
Sport-Ecke, Chieming, Bavaria, Germany 172 miles (at 1,700 ft or 514 m high)
Open 1 April-30 Sept. www.sport-ecke.de ACSI Card 18.40 inc taxes, 16 amp elec, hot
showers. Free WiFi. N 47.87636 E
12.52804
Squeezing through
Bled, it was 4 miles back to the A2. At the last roundabout before joining the
motorway, we turned right to shop. Lidl had a 3-metre height barrier, that we
just might have cleared, but we continued to Hofer (= Aldi), with no parking
restrictions. It had an in-store bakery and some drastic reductions on
chocolate Easter bunnies and eggs. Well stocked, we took the A2 motorway and
headed north-west for Austria. At the last Slovenian services, Jesenice at 16
miles, we bought the Austrian motorway Vignette (8.70 for the minimum 10 days,
for vehicles up to 3.5 tons). This doesn't cover one or two tunnels which have
extra tolls.
INTO AUSTRIA
At the Slovenian
exit post a friendly guard (born in Birmingham) practised his English and
checked our passports. The border with Austria actually lies in the 8-km sub-alpine
Karawanke Tunnel (toll 7). We entered the tunnel at 1,925 ft (583 m) and
emerged into Austria at 2,220 ft (673 m). A little snow still lay on the peaks
as we descended to Villach, then took A10 north for Salzburg. Continued at: From Slovenia to Ireland 2015
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