NOTES ON A MOTORHOME JOURNEY THROUGH BULGARIA IN AUGUST 2004.

Barry and Margaret Williamson

The following notes describe a motorhome journey through Western Bulgaria on our way from Northern Greece to the UK.

We spent our last night in Greece on an excellent car park near a small harbour at the northern end of Lake Kerkini, easily accessed and well-signposted north from the E79 Thessalonika-Serres road. From there it is about 20 miles of easy driving to the Bulgarian border via the Iraklia valley.

It was a relaxed and well-ordered crossing in about 30 minutes. Leaving Greece was free but it cost 2 euro for each of disinfectant and road tax on the Bulgarian side, done without having to leave the motorhome to search for booths, offices or windows (contrast with earlier crossings). Bulgaria is getting ready for the EU!

We followed the E79 north all the way to Sofia, bypassing the major industrial towns of Blagoevgrad and Dupnica. Good, smooth, single carriageway spoilt only by Bulgarian 'Kamakaze' overtaking when police not in sight. The hint of a police car slowed the traffic right down! There were many shops, cafés, petrol stations (all selling diesel and many selling LPG). Possible side trips east are to Melnik and (later) the Rila monastery (where overnight parking is possible).

We drove anti-clockwise on the clearly signposted Sofia ring road, following 'Plovdiv' initially. Main cities have their names repeated in Latin alphabet, many others not! Excellent TIR lorry park on the ring road after 145 miles total (125 from border), on the left about 8 miles along the ring road (after passing McDrive with limited parking). 5 euro gave us a safe, quiet night and use of the motel's excellent toilet and shower rooms.

The Sofia ring road, busy and bumpy in its early part, turns into an excellent smooth motorway (A2/E79) as it turns north-west signposted 'Pleven' and 'Ruse'. Turned off for Vidin via Botevgrad, Mezdra and Montana. Lovely stretches of green and wooded hills between towns of dire factories and dilapidated concrete flats. Many skimpily dressed dusky young prostitutes lined the E79, giving us friendly waves (Barry thought that 'topless' must be a misnomer). After Montana, the E79 was closed for major overhaul (perhaps with a new bridge to come at Vidin) and we were diverted onto a narrow and bumpy back road, paralleling the E79.

We turned south for Belogradchik on bad roads, climbing to 1800 ft through splendid forest, tempted by the prospect of a Roman/Turkish fortress. Good but small 'Camping Madona' is on the right, 1 mile before Belogradchik. Mme Velko speaks some French, charges 15 leva or 8 euro and is very kind. She gave us tomatoes, grapes, cucumber, water melon, 2 large sausages and a souvenir folder from her husband's factory.

Belogradchik is a very friendly town, everyone we asked was helpful and others approached us with their own questions. The fortress (entry 2.5 leva each) is splendid, built as it is among and using high rock pillars, overlooking empty, forested hills.

After 4 comfortable nights, we headed downhill on very pot-holed roads to Vidin. We had been intrigued for many years by the Vidin-Calafat border crossing – it is one of only 4 between Bulgaria and Romania and the only one to use a vehicle ferry across the Danube. Previously we had been discouraged by its remoteness and by stories of delays running into days! When the Danube runs low, the ferry doesn't run at all!

We spent a good night on a new TIR lorry park just short of the border post and crossed on Sunday morning. There was little delay at the Bulgarian check point since we could overtake the long queue of TIR lorries. The ferry pulled in at about 9.30 am but stood empty – it was the end of their shift! But we finally crossed at 10.45 after only 2 hours of waiting made pleasant by good conversation with Stefan, a Bulgarian working in Wicklow and driving an Irish-registered car!

On the ferry, we met 4 Glaswegian cyclists on a 2-week tour of Bulgaria and Romania. They had little luggage and were themselves nothing but muscle and sinew – hard as rivets but very friendly! They understood why initially we hadn't thought that they were speaking English – they weren't! Once across, we were soon through on the Romanian side, our faxed 'Green' Card passing muster. We drove 25 miles down the road towards Craiovo before we saw the Glaswegian Four again!