Aussies on Tour in Norway, Germany & Scotland 2017

Martin and Pam Williams
Summer of 2017

Introduction

Last year Martin and Pam travelled over 10,600 km (6,650 miles) around France in their new motorhome, a Marquis Majestic 125. This year they returned to Norway - a place they decided in 2012 was their new favourite country. The following account covers almost 8 weeks in Norway and their outward journey across Germany, as well as Scotland later in the holiday. In 4-months away from their Western Australian home they covered almost 13,500 km (8,450 miles).

Most of the trip went to plan, but more of that later!!

Links to full descriptions of five of their previous motorhome journeys in Europe (2011 - 2014 and 2016) can be found on this website in Fellow Travellers.

Link here to some pictures of their trip and where they stopped overnight.

An overview of their journey with background information and informed impressions and opinions from a refreshingly new perspective, can also be found on this website.

Martin writes:

The high-level view of our 2017 four-month holiday away from our Western Australian base is available on-line as Australian Motorhome Travellers in Norway and Germany 2017 on the excellent motorhome site MagBaz Travels. The following represents another level of detail – sitting somewhere between information for motor-homers and a diary!!

We had two good flights with Qatar airlines and arrived at Birmingham after some 18½ hours flying time, a distance of just over 14,750 kms!! That was the time to rest, to recover from jet-lag and to convert the brain to think in pounds and miles, for a while at least!

The first 2 weeks were spent renewing friendships, getting the van out of storage, taxing and insuring it, renewing the Tracker system subscription, fitting a SOG and trying to fit solar panels – failed with this one. Buying food, sorting clothes, organising maps and books and packing the van were the other key foci.

The next 3½ weeks saw us cross Belgium and Germany to Dresden and head up to Berlin and across the north coast to Rostock and Lubeck.

After a quick sprint across Denmark and a ferry to Kristiansand we started our two months in Norway.

The Continental Part of Our Trip

28 May 2017 Bournemouth – Dover – Bergues 361 km

We farewelled our rellies, fuelled the van and set off to brave the UK's Bank Holiday traffic. Good journey; called in to Sainsbury's in Folkestone. Good calm and warm crossing to Calais followed by a quiet drive to the aire at Bergues. N 50.96510 E 2.43638

29&30 May Bergues – Ghentbrugge – Brussels 213 km

The aire at Ghentbrugge [51Ί 02' 15.6” 3Ί 46' 04.1”] had big signs saying 'closed'. The local tram to Kaiplatts had also gone. We gave Gent a miss and drove into Brussels via Molembeck and the Atomium and parked at the metro at Crainhem – very lucky to get a spot. Checked out the gardens at the local Uni campus. N 50.84892° E 4.45983°

31 May – 1 June Brussels

Took metro to Gare Centrale, bought city map at Tourist Office and walked and walked. Great city. Key images: gardens, Le Grand Place, army patrols, lots of bikes, the Mannekin Pis statue – dressed as Chinese Coolie, sitting eating lunch on steps of the Bourse listening to a cello player and watching a couple dancing the tango to Alleluia.

2 June Brussels – Cologne 229 km

Drove to the aire at Hasselt and used the local Aldi. The hot start and later humidity ended with a big evening storm. We drove to the Rhine in Cologne and headed for the 12 € aire. It was a holiday week-end and they were very full. No water, no loos and the borne was outside on Adenaur Strasse. We went for a walk down by the river, getting back just before the rain. N 50.96282° E 50.96282°  Parked near a van from Victoria – in Oz – long way from home!!

3 June Cologne

Walked into Cologne along the river – spotted the motorhomes parked by the zoo bridge. The city was very crowded – we checked out the Dom and the areas around – we loved Martin's church and the old market areas. We moved the van down to the river and parked with about 6 other vans. Parking was free after 5 pm. Did the nearby Sculpture Park and watched the river traffic – lots of barges. Walked into town later and crossed the railway bridge, which was weighed down by 'love locks' to check out the classic view of the cathedral. N 50.9561 E 6.97454

4 June Cologne

Walked across the Zoobrόke and through a music festival on the other side, up to the next bridge and back to the van for lunch. Back into Cologne for the evening.

5 June Cologne – Eisenach 308 km

Dumped loo, got fuel and took a zig-zag route on E40, E41, A480, A4 and E40 to Eisenach. Toured a few aires before settling on a nice new one. Plugged in for 4 hours of electricity for 1 € and used the microwave. Walked around the town later. N 50.97889 E 10.32343

6 June Eisenach - Schmalkalden - Eisenach 126 km

Toured the town in the morning – big focus on Luther's 500^th anniversary. Nice liveable town with lots of pedestrian areas. Later checked out the Wartburg Castle. Drove to Schmalkalden, checked out the new aire and returned to the Eisenach aire.

7 June Eisenach - Erfurt 76 km

Lunch on A4 at Hainich. Stopped at park and ride at Erfurt – good directions to get to centre. Took the tram from Thuringenhalle to Platz Anger. Nice town; lots to see – Merchants Bridge, great street art, huge fun run happening to cathedral square. A wet tram trip back. N 50.95843 E 11.03715

8 June Erfurt - Dresden 227 km

Very slow at times on autobahn, one lane crawl for ages. Noticeably more Polish trucks on the roads. Checked out a couple of aires in Dresden (18€ & 10€) before parking near the river. N 51.05825 E 13.76165. Walked (10 min) into town then looped across the bridges. Used the free Wi-Fi at Altmarkt Gallerie.

9 - 11 June Dresden 3 km

Great days in a great city. Images: So many stylish buildings, old and new, the city was clean, safe, with very little litter, bikes everywhere, pedestrian areas; a very liveable city. Lots of police and DIXI's though We moved to the CCI aire on 10^th – as a flea market was being set up around us by the river which really helped with the decision. Finally found the aire at N 51.06247 E 13.72937.

12 June Dresden – Pirna 59 km

Lots of 'Unleitungs' on the way to Pirna – where we got much needed LPG. We ignored the cross-river ferry and walked over the bridges to the nice town, with the best roses of the holiday. Watched the cruise boats come and go. N 50.96641° E 13.93795°

Tuesday 13 June Pirna (Copitz) - Dresden 122 km

Spent a frustrating day in Saxon Switzerland – Sδchsische Schweitz NP – nowhere to stop, little to see. Back to Dresden – the aire car park, officially a 'Grill Platz', was closed. More police in evidence. Parked by the river. What we thought was a mosque turned out to be a beer garden!! N 51.06247 E 13.72937.

Wednesday 14 June Dresden - Berlin198 km

We reluctantly left Dresden, which we loved. Got advice about places to aim for in Berlin and headed for one of the S-Bahn stations. We parked at the top end of Motzener Str, walked to Schicauweg station and then re-parked at the station. Tucked away nicely. N 52.39638 E 13.38174

Thursday & Friday 15 & 16 June Berlin

Took the S-Bahn into Berlin twice each day – morning and evening. Great city, great feel with lots of highlights. It was clean and felt safe; lots of cyclists, superb monuments, fabulous old and brilliant modern architecture. Favourite place was the Dom in the Gendermenmarkt area. The Jewish memorial was upsetting and sobering.

Saturday 17 June Berlin – Eberswalde 161 km

Car park filling up quickly as we left. Refuelled and headed south to pick up the ring road. Lots of road works and deviations and loads of closed off service areas. Had lunch in Blumberg. Checked out the ship lift at Neiderfinow – which was a bit crap after seeing the Falkirk Wheel. Stopped in the aire with one Swedish van. N 52.8384 E 13.7646

Sunday 18 June Eberswalde – Rostock 260 km

Discussed ways to get to Norway with the Swedes who suggested a ferry from Rostock to Trellebourg. Parked on the quayside at Rostock. Various trips to town – nice pedestrian areas; free Wi-Fi options. N 54.09293° E 12.1302° .

Monday 19 June Rostock – Lόbeck 133 km

Drove into Lubeck – parked at the aire by a circus. Interesting town – quite nice by the water – but some really strange architecture in places. Cigarette machines in the street. N 53.87152 E 10.67903  

Tuesday 20 June Lόbeck – Blankhoj 343 km

Cut across to the E7, refuelled near Burgle, took a back road into Denmark and had to show our passports – a rare event! Got used to the different road signage, driving conventions and styles. Less traffic and less aggressive drivers. We stopped at the same place we had used in 2012. N 56.17554 E 10.06611

Wednesday 21 June Blankhoj – Hirtshals 205 km

Bought 8 litres of engine oil in Randers then drove to Fjord line offices in Hirtshals to find out that we didn't have a booking and 'our' ferry was full!! We had to rebook – for Thursday and then try to get our money back from Direct Ferry. Went off to lick our wounds and get fuel. Failed with LPG. Parked on the free plot of land near the beach – watched a big Spanish van get stuck in the sand and then helped to dig it out Failed to take a photo! N 57.591599 E 9.984665

Thursday 22 June Hirtshals – Kristiansand 40 km

Woke early and tried to get on the earlier ferry – they had space but wanted 60 €. We left, parked and used their Wi-Fi, found somewhere for lunch and sorted our paperwork out. Our 5pm ferry arrived 90 mins late – I even had time to have a shower. It was a very flat crossing. Got in just before 9pm we were off first – we'd backed on. Set the SatNav to the spot we'd stayed in 2010 and parked nearby on a bus depot turning area. N 58.176312, E 8.141321

Friday 23 June Kristiansand – Byglandsfjord 40 km

Drove up Rv9 to the rapids south of Bygland. Stopped at one of many spots by the fjord. Lots of fires to celebrate the summer solstice. N 58.72115 E 7.81194

Sat 24 June Byglandsfjord – Haukelifell 197 km

Checked out the open air museum, stopped after rain squalls at Honnevje - superb swimming! Big drop down to Haukelli on the E134. Headed west and stopped with 7 other vans on frozen Haukelifjell.  N 59.812222, E 7.212611

Sunday 25 June Haukelifell – Voringfoss 161 km Drove off in sleet about 9am at about 1000m. Bypassed Roldal and took the Rv13 with its extensive with roadwork; lunch at Sekse by fjord in deteriorating weather before visiting Kinsarvik. Later stopped at a cold Eidfjord – superb 'dressed' trees – before heading up the loops to Voringfossen. Low cloud and cold. Stopped with about 30 vans – mostly Italian. N 60.42386 E 7.24959

Monday 26 June Voringfoss - Vassbygdi 185 km

9 C in van overnight. We left at 11 – only van left. Off up the E7 over very bleak but scenic moorland. We stopped at Geilo. Superb descent to Vassbygdi through tunnels that looped over each other. N 60.87439 E 7.33686

Tuesday 27 June Vassbygdi

Walked up Aurlandsdalen for about 4½ km to the rock fall – superb walk and wonderful setting for lunch. Back about 6:35. N 60.87439 E 7.33686

Wed 28 June Vassbygdi – Aurlandsvegen 16 km

Failed to find the walk up Stondalen then drove down to Aurland for bread – and up the Aurlandsfjellet to the superb Stegastein viewpoint - although it was far too crowded. Drove up to the next walker's car park. Walked up to the saddle for superb views over the fjords – Flam, Aurland and the cruise ships. N 60.91801 E 7.23090  Photo – The Fjord Watcher

Thursday 29 June Aurlandsvegen - Laerdal 43 km

Tic removal followed by walk to the saddle and up the next hill before completing the superb drive up the Snow Road.. The 8% 6km drop to the fjord was good for the brakes! Toured the town then sat on the steps of the town hall for Wi-Fi Stopped by the fjord on the Fv243 – great sunset. N 61.10354 E 7.43185

Friday 30 June Laerdal – Tindevegen 105 km

Ate at the picnic table; parked in town, then took the E6 6.6 km long tunnel. Wrong turning looking for the Ovre Ardal toll road to Turtago. Cooked and ate outside in snowy mountain landscape. N 61.48447 E 7.74115

Saturday 1 July Tindevegen - Gaupne 120 km

Walked to the edge to look down on the Rv55, our next road; drove down to Turtago, Skolden and Luster. Along superb Lustrafjord and checked out Gaupne before heading north up the Rv604, washing the van at Fossoy en route to Nigradsbreen Glacier. Superb walk to the glacier. Lunch in NP car park before heading down to picnic area north of Gaupne. N 61.49326 E 7.27051.

Photo – NigradsbreenGlacier

Sunday 2 July Gaupne - Boyabreen 87 km

Wet all day – we used the super-fast Wi-Fi at the Gaupne co-op. Drove on in heavy rain. Checked out Fjaeland Glacier museum before stopping in very poor visibility at the next glacier – with a load of hyperactive cows. N 61.48073 E 6.74493

Monday 3 July Boyabreen – Hellesylt 168 km

Dodged the cows and checked the glacier; really crap weather – low cloud and rain. Through Utvik to Loen – we abandoned the planned side trip to Lodalen – road was too busy and narrow. Drove on to a wet, cold and miserable Hellesylt. Geiranger fjord looked bad. Stopped 2 tunnels out of town. N 61.15934 E 6.92308

Tuesday 4 July Hellesylt - Norddal 89 km

Better weather – checked the ferry to Geiranger – very entertaining. Went north and took our first ferry, Stranda to Liabygda. Stopped in drizzle at Gudbrandsjuvet. Continued north in really bleak weather to the spot we stopped at 5 years ago. N 62.41541 E 7.64061

Wednesday 5 July Norddal - Eikesdalen 166 km

Drove up to an obscenely busy Trollstigen Visitor Centre and lookout. Cafι was packed with people with little 'carry out' boxes of noodles. People flying drones everywhere. Superb rainbow down the valley. Loads of tour buses on the narrow Trollstigen zig-zags. They really need to limit them. Spent ages watching the chaos. We timed our descent to fit in with a core lunch time – it worked well!! Drove down to Andelsnes for lunch. Took the Rv64 to Εfarnes, then the Rv660 to the end and the Fv191 to the superb Ψverεs / Eresfjord Rest Stop. Along the fjord past Eikesdalen and Mardals waterfall until the road ran out – single unsurfaced road – we had intended driving over to Sunndalsψra. Parked for the night near the fjord. N 62.54183 E 8.18361 one of several spots on the road.

Photo - Ψverεs / Eresfjord

Thursday 6 July Eikesdalen - Melhus 242 km

Checked out some of the many painted bicycles , and the church at Sira. Up the E70 to Oppdal and along the main E6. Turned off towards Klaebu – partly to avoid a series of tolls. Not really sure where we stopped but wherever it was we shared it with some ponies - south of Trondheim. N 63.21301 E 10.39980

Friday 7July Melhus - Majavatn 345 km

Bypassed Trondheim via some superb countryside. Headed up E6 past Steinker Lake, through Grong and Formofossen. N 65.16706 E 13.37023

8July Majavatn – Arctic Circle Centre 265 km

North through Mosjoen; stopped at Laksfor waterfall and at Korgen for lunch. Passed some enormous road projects. The new sections were superb and smooth – some dales looked like vast construction sites. Several new toll gantries being installed. Stopped at the Arctic Circle Centre – heavy rain soon after we arrived. N 66.55067 E 15.31923

9 July Arctic Circle Centre - Fauske 101 km

Left a note on one of the cairns, went for short walk on the snow across the road, checked out the visitor centre and off about noon. Slow drive downhill to the superb Nordland NP centre at Storjord/Junkerdal. Did several short walks including across the wobbly bridge. Left about 5:15 and drove up to Fauske to where we'd stopped in 2012. N 67.24031 E 15.51348

10 July Fauske - Forsan / Steigen 145 km

Drove into a wet town and got LPG, supplies, water and 60 litres of diesel – it went up from 12.02 kr/l to 14.90 kr/l as we drove away. Up the E6 until the Fv613 – great detour past Leirfjorden School and Eiavatnet. Back onto the main road until the Rv835 through the 8 km tunnel to 'our' Forsan stop at 7:30. Had dinner and walked until midnight. Glorious clear evening - fabulous cloud formations with midnight sun - changing by the minute. N 67.951067 E 15.633033 Great spot but they'd build a Cermaq factory in the small bay!

Tuesday 11 July Forsan – Tranψy point 115 km

Glorious relaxing warm morning, superb spot which we left about 1 pm; Lunch at Innhavet. Took the Rv81 through Hameroy to Stutvik. Quite a long queue for the ferry to Svolvaer (Lofoten). We did see a moose but the road was unappealing. We left when the rain increased and took the Rv665 towards Tranψy – we liked the idea of a 'Fyr' – a lighthouse – some idea of the distance would have helped. We eventually found a superb stopping spot – looking out towards the Lofoten Islands. N 68.149011 E 15.627552

Wednesday 12 July Tranψy – Narvik (E6) 124 km

Walked over the headlands and absorbed the beauty and tranquillity of the place. Drove north and parked near the Tranψy lighthouse. - superb reflections in the dead calm sea. Spent ages there before driving into town – a really nice town – great little port, lots of art – a really good feel. Back through Hamaroy along Rv81, up E6 & onto the ferry at Bognes and off. Superb scenery on the drive towards Narvik – stopped by the Skjom suspension bridge. N 68.374617 E 17.253183

Thursday 13 July Narvik 44 km

Heavy rain overnight and during the day! Drove into Narvik and bought an oil filter and wrench (at Biltema). Parked near centre of town. N 68.441667 E 17.416450

Friday 14 July Narvik - Skanland 101 km

Very heavy rain overnight – low cloud and light rain all day. We changed the engine oil – quite a palaver! Cleaned up at the Co-op Extra. Headed up the very wet E6 – poor visibility. Stopped at Bjerkvik for Wi-Fi and dumpster diving! Turned up the Rv825 – great scenery.  N 68.692842 E 16.923744

Saturday 15 July Skanland - Gullesfjord 97 km

A dry start – with rainbows around. Heavy rain as we crossed to Hinnoya. We finally gave up at the roundabout E10/Rv85 and Rv103 and parked in torrential rain with little visibility and stayed put. N 68.529554 E 15.765952

Sunday 16 July Gullesfjord - Andenes 170 km

Off in mixed weather to a blue Sortland – over the bridge by the huge RV dealership. Watched the Hurtigruten ferry leave. On north and up the Rv974 – part of the superb Andoya National Tourist Route. Lunch by a small beach with cliffs and falling rocks.. Off to Bleik for a walk along the groyne before heading to Andenes the furthest we got from 'home' – 2,058 km. Parked near the ferry with 16 others; superb midnight sun. Walked to the lighthouse and along the breakwater. Great views south to Bleik. Lots of trawlers in port and lots of diving terns guarding their nests!! N 69.322567 E 16.131600

Mon 17 July Andenes – E10 Oksfjorden 161 km

Drove down the boring Rv82 and back to Shortland. Stopped on the E10 under a bridge. N 68.457450 E 15.519167

Tue 18 July Oksfjorden – Gimsoya / Vagan 143 km

Superb scenery down the E10 with lots of tunnels - up to 6 km long – some sub-sea. Went for a walk at Delp where we'd stopped in 2012. We saw very little traffic until we got back to a very busy E10. Parked near the airport. Svolvaer was crowded so we headed for the north coast. Good stopping spot at the end – had some agro from a Swede who wanted us 4 m away. N 68.341867 E 14.082750

Wednesday 19 July Gimsoya / Vagan - Ure 79 km

Drove clockwise around the Rv815 southern coast road – not so spectacular as last time. Checked out Stamsund – in the wet. Ended up stopping outside a small museum at Ure. N 68.107250 E 13.723983

Thursday 20 July Ure - Fredvang 90 km

Pure blue sky; drove to Ballstad and went on long coastal walk. Stopped off at Ramberg – appalled by the large and ugly camp site. Stopped at the superb Flakstad beach. Up the Rv803 past the Sculpture landscape tower. Took Rv986 across the bridges between Flakstadoy and Moskensoy and stopped on the middle island. Wonderful spot. Went for a long walk around the area – lots of smelly fish drying racks! N 68.08361 E 13.18844

Friday 21 July Fredvang - Ε 61 km

Crossed the bridge and followed the Rv808 down to Sandvika. Superb scenery but very unwelcoming. Later we went down the unmade road to the SW; walked a long way. Checked out the local beach – got stuck in the small car park. Drove up to Sund which was a bit of a mess – in comparison the views at Hamnoy and Reine were amazing. Checked out the ferry times at Moskenes and decided to go to Bodo – the drive back to Narvik was too provoking. Drove on to Ε and stopped in the 'no overnight' car park. - us and about 25 others!! The town looked really run down but the walk west onto the cliff was magic. N 67.87961 E 12.97763

Saturday 22 July Ε - Moskenes 20 km

Fabulous sunny, warm day. We watched the campers 'no camping' return to their cars!! We went for a long walk down the point and had lunch overlooking the superb cliffs and the kittiwakes. Drove to the Co-op at Reine for Wi-Fi where we confused everyone with our presence – the shop was shut! Down to Moskenes where we watched people fail to get on the 8:30 ferry. We parked in the ferry car park to get the 11 am Sunday ferry. N 67.89965 E 13.0447

Sunday 23 July Moskenes - Bodo 19 km

A real stuff-up – we woke at 7 am but by the time we got in the queue we were a long way back. The caravan in front of us got on – we didn't!! The 40% reservations and the late coach arrival killed us. We had lunch in the van, walked to the end of the breakwater and then up to the camp site. It had been packed last night; did they all move to the ferry queue? We boarded the next bigger ferry, late at 1:45, by which time lanes 17/18 were full of hopefuls!  Nice crossing more like a cruise!

Bodo seemed quite civilised, although a bit protected by tolls. We checked out the aviation museum then did the open air museum and went for a walk. Re-parked by Bodin Church. N 67.27435 E 14.53508

Monday 24 July Bodo – Valnesvatnet Lake 52 km

Sunny day with high cloud – really humid. We aoke to the grass mowing and stryming soundtrack. Got tide times from Wi-Fi at Co-op and off to Saltstraumen for the superb tidal maelstrom; amazing both at sea level and from the bridge. .On down the Rv17 for only 2km to the superb site with geological markers –--- Εselistraumen. Stopped near a superb lake – more agro that we were too close. Valnesvatnet N 67.16606 E 14.44996

Tuesday 25 July Valnesvatnet - Glomfjord 98 km

Watched our neighbours bathe in the lake – they'd arrived at 1:30. Stopped for a walk at the suspension bridge over Kjellingsundet. Continued south through stunning scenery until we reached Storvika – where we went to the beach and I swam. Eventually dragged ourselves away. Passed several places to stay including Ornes – but kept going until Glomfjord. We ignored the tunnel and toured the town. Not easy to find a place to stop - N 66.81013 E 13.97972 long walk

Wednesday 26 July Glomfjord – Aas / Εs 83 km

Drove down to the main road, through the long tunnels and stopped at the Hoyland rest area where we sorted the van out – emptied, cleaned, filled and had lunch. Superb views to the Svartisen Glacier. Left about 4pm and almost immediately found another superb lookout. Then started the ferry madness – got the 2^nd ferry out of Furoy then charged on to the Jektvik ferry – some idiotic drivers. Chaos at the ferry but extra ferries on.. The ferry trip to Kilboghavn was wonderful – amazing scenery – we recrossed the Arctic Circle another cruise!. Really narrow roads and lots of road work – few stopping options. Stopped at a school / hiking car park in Εs and went for a long evening walk. N 66.38210 E 13.11686

Thursday 27 July Aas / Εs - Holandsvika 140 km

Some overnight rain but it dawned bright and clear. Drove to local lookout and down to the German WWII site at Gronsvik. Had lunch at the Hellaga picnic area which was completely full of motorhomes! On to the ferry at Nesna – drove down the 808 towards Bardal before going back to the Fv17. We decided to leave the Tourist Route and head to Mosjoen along the Fv78 but one of the tunnels was blocked so we were forced to take the 11 km toll tunnel at Toven. We looped back to the Fv78 - Holandsvika – superb spot by the fjord. N 65.94214 E 13.06220

Friday 28 July Holandsvika – GraneBorge 116 km

Walked to the small hydro setup and then watched the dolphins in the fjord. Drove diwn to Mosjoen for LPG. Down the E6, then the Rv273 and along Borgefjell – nice rapids but not a brilliant detour. N 65.27632 E 13.47381

Saturday 29 July GraneBorge - Stiklestad 257 km

Heavy rain in the morning - wifi said better down south so we kept going, almost clear by lunchtime south of Grong. Detour to Straumen, then we happened upon a celebration at Sticklestad for the battle there in 1030!! Half the population of Trondelage seemed to be there. Settled in on the field being used as a car park. We had a guided tour of the church and visited the open-air museum. Great event and nice spot. N 63.79221 E 11.56490

Sunday 30 July Stiklestad - Hennset/Halsa 260 km

Quick trip around the site and off towards Trondheim. Called in to see a friend of a friend in Malvik. Trondheim was really frustrating. The aire was over-full, there were motorhomes everywhere and all of the parking was paying. The supermarkets banned motorhomes from even parking! The place we stopped last time had been dug up and another was a tunnel entrance. We got fed up and set the SatNav for the Helsa ferry – sadly we had old maps and we missed the new road, the E39 – scenery was good though! Few stopping spots – eventually stopped at tourist area after the Hennset ferry. Great sunset. N 63.12686 E 8.37461

Monday 31 July Hennset/Halsa – Kristiansund 66 km

Great sunrise too! Where to now? Checked weather via wifi at a Co-op. Alesund was better but we headed the other way. Three ferries running at Halsa so short wait. Headed for the 5 km sub-sea tunnel to Kristiansund where we did 2 loops of town before finding an open parking space north of the town near the old shipbuilding museum. We sat and listened to the rain on the roof before taking a long walk around town. The Hurtigruten ferry was just leaving. Had another long walk later – seemed a really nice town. N 63.12150 E 7.72952

Tuesday 1 August Kristiansund – Bud 97 km

Walked to Rema and used the wifi.at a shopping centre. Off at 11 via the sub-sea tunnel – expensive toll. Took the Fv247 road south around Averψya to the stave church at Kvernes. Lots of signs saying 'no motorhomes'. Interesting llama farm. Turned left onto the Rv64 to the Atlantahavsvegen – National Tourist Route. We stopped several times for walks over the clifs – it was too crowded though – full of motorhomes parked up very early. The walk at Straumsholmen was good. Kept near the coast to Bud – then drove back to Kjekska the site of a German radar station. N 62.91738 E 6.93608

Sunday 2 August Bud - Alesund             125 km

Drove slowly in heavy rain to the Romsdal Museum in Molde, through town and straight onto the ferry – they left while we were still paying. Very threatening dark clouds on the drive into Alesund. We parked in an unmetered carpark past Bunpris, Kiwi & Rema. Walked into town and got a map from the tourist office, had dinner and headed into town again. Dodged the rain. Two huge cruise ships in port. N 62.47004 E 6.13434

Sunday 3 August Alesund

Walked into town and climbed the 418 steps to the lookout at Aksla Hill. Great view but too many people there – with the 2 cruise ships in town! Toured the town, watched one cruise ship leave and later moved the van to Ocean Park. Walked to the local bay and watched a superb sunset. Later drove back to Aksla Hill – the hard way – we followed the satnav – superb night-time views. N 62.46623 E 6.10085

Sun 4 August Alesund – Norangsdalen 112 km

Went to look at the church but it was closed for a funeral. Off after noon down to the ferry at Magerholm then on to Stranda and a quite empty Hellesylt. Left at 6:45 down the Rv60 and up the superb Fv655 past glaciers to Norangsdale – stopped at a fantastic spot, possibly the best of our holiday. N 62.14183 E 6.74653

Sun 5 August Norangsdalen - Oldendalen 131 km

We drove down the dale, past Ψye to the ferry at Leknes-Standal. Dead calm but with misty rain until about 1pm, which gave the scenery a surreal feeling – haunting with little colour. Had lunch at the marina /picnic area at Ψye. Drove back up the superb Norangsdalen past the submerged village and the glaciers; hit the souvenir shops at Hellesylt. Intended to drive to Olden but the road was closed at Utvik. Drove up towards the big glaciers at Birksdalenbreen and stopped by the fjord. N 61.75526 E 6.80055

Sunday 6 August Oldendalen – Byrkjelo 143 km

Drove to the glacier upper car-parks – very narrow road in places. Decided against walking to the glaciers – not sure why in retrospect! The road closure beyond Utvik was a real pain. Eventually took the crazy side road – the Fv613 to Nordfjorden – single track tunnel at one stage! Should have been a short cut – sometimes at fjord level and at others up to 400 m above the water. Great scenery though. Drove to the ferry at Lote where there was a very long queue due to the road closure. Our wait was 90 mins after which we drove through Sandane and Byrkjelo on the E39. Stopped by the river in the superb valley before Klakegg – weather was a bit dull. N 61.63781 E 6.52254

Monday 7 August Byrkjelo - Likholefossen 84 km

With the deep valley the sun was a long time reaching us. Then we were invaded – first by goats, some with attitude and then by Indonesian bikers, their coach arrived before they did. We left very late – after the goats had gone and come back a couple of times. On down the Rv39/E5 through Skei – had lunch at Vassenden – the end of the fjord. After a windy and cold lunch we turned up the Fv13 on the Gaurarfjellet National Tourist Route. The weather slowly deteriorated from dull, to drizzle and finally rain. We stopped at the waterfall. N 61.32889 E 6.27328 Cold walks ~12ΊC.

Tuesday 8 August Likholefossen - Laerdal 140 km

After a few walks along local tracks we left and stopped at the superb Utsikten lookout before dropping down to the valley at Dtragsvik and then around to Balestrand for supplies and Wi-Fi Back to Dragsvik for the ferry to Hella and on past the fruit orchards to Sogndal. Checked out Kaupanger – stave church and fjord museum. Took 2^nd ferry to Fodnes and on to Laerdal, 5000 kms on from our visit on 29 June!! It was a lot busier in 'our' stop – ten of us. Another nice sunset. N 61.10357 E 7.43214

Wed 9 August Laerdal - Aurlandsvegen 54 km

Contacted our French friends and arranged to meet them in Strasbourg. Over lunch we watched the super calm reflection of the old town. Headed west and up the Fv243, back up the Snow Road. Luckily we met only a few things coming the other way – stopped to look at the hibernating bear art work and the lake & waterfalls at Vedahaugane – fabulous drive. Short walk up to the saddle lookout, then stopped at N 60.92440 E 7.27099 We were parked immediately above the 24½ km long Laerdal tunnel.

Thurs 10 August Aurlandsvegen - Ulvik 153 km

Drove to the parking for hikers and walked up to the viewpoint again; rewarded by seeing 3 para-gliders jumping from the hilltop above us. They landed by the fjord at Aurland. The Stegastein lookout was heaving and a Polish tour bus was creating chaos. There was even more chaos on the narrow road and the Z-bends on the way down to town. We drove along to look at the para-sailing drop-spot; then down to Undredal for lunch and a walk. Through the 11 km long tunnel – Flam looked busy. Through Voss and on to Ulvik the long way around. Stopped in the main car park by the church – near the tourist office. N 60.56714 E 6.91661

Friday 11 August Ulvik – Roldal 124 km

Lots of rain overnight and still very wet in morning. Went for walk along the fjord. Superb reflections in the fjord. Checked out the local hotel and the tourist office – the girl in charge was studying in Sth Korea. We should have done the 'apple walk' but we drove to Kinsarvik – marina, church and watched ferry leave. Then it all went wrong on the narrow road to Lofthus – damage to rear bumper – when confronted by a bus. On to Lofthus to swap insurance details and to Odda for Wi-Fi & to lick our wounds! Checked out the super Lattefossen fall and eventually found a place to stay in Roldal. N 59.82075 E 6.81717

Saturday 12 August Roldal – Vrεdal 161 km

Very wet overnight and for most of the day. We didn't sleep well; also close to a sub-station. No bread in Roldal. Stopped for breaky on the E134 and headed up the Haukelifjell road – all shops and towns were small until Εmot/Vinje where there was a large Co-op. Down the Rv41 – checked out the open air museum before climbing the zig-zags after Kviteseid. Telemark country. Stopped at a really nice fjord-side spot. N 59.28104 E 8.52720

Sunday 13 August Vrεdal – Kristiansand – Hirtshals - Broderslev (Denmark) 220 km

A day to head south and leave Norway. Did a macro plan for the rest of our holiday, went for a short walk and off down the Rv41 – lousy surface that improved as we got nearer to Treungen – nice town. Emailed our French friends to cancel our trip as we need to get back to the UK to sort the van repair out. Stopped at a nice picnic area by the river – overlooked by Telemark Staves. Got fuel in Birkenes after the fuel warning light came on. Drove towards the ferry, failed to avoid the tolls and parked up until about 7pm when we joined the queue. Cooked and ate. The ferry was late – arriving at 20:20 and leaving soon after 21:00. Docked after 23:30. Got fuel in Hirtshals – another 2.13% card fee – still a lot cheaper than Norway. Off down the E39 for about half-an-hour – stopped for the night at a picnic/WC/service area. N 57.22270 E 9.93764

Monday 14 August Broderslev – Garlstorf E7 530 km

Drove to MacD's and booked channel ferry for 17^th. Let's get a move on .. lunch at Pederdminde rest area, tea just before German border and on to Hamburg. SatNav took us through town – where we got cheap fuel. The aire we were aiming for was awful so we drove down the autobahn until we found a stop that was not full of trucks – it wasn't easy!! S of Hamburg. A long, long day in the saddle! N 53.22736 E 10.07502

Tuesday 15 August Garlstorf - Cologne 422 km

We were surrounded by nice beech trees but it was a noisy night. Drove to Celle – did a LIDL-shop at Bergen en route – and played the tourist game for a while – the place was still in 'Luther' celebration mode. Lots of delays and exit/service area closures on the autobahns which resulted in a lunch at 3:45. Parked in Cologne near the river. N 50.95628 E 6.97484

Wed 16 August Cologne – Gent/Gand 285 km

Headed to Gent and got out our file for Flanders. The aire was massive. Walked into town for a superb evening, back about 9:45. Watched 'canoe polo' on the way back. N 51.04909 E 3.70234

Thurs 17 August Gent – Calais – Dover - Derby 515 km

The overnight rain put paid to the planned breakfast outside. Drove to Veurne to check out the aire and on to Calais for LPG and fuel. At the port we were put on an earlier ferry but we actually left at our scheduled departure time. Got the wrong road out of Dover again – took the A2/M2 – which actually worked out quite well in the end. Stopped at Toddington for a brief rest & arrived 'home' at about 2 am.

And so full circle after 83 days on the road, almost 12 weeks. On Friday 18^th we hit the internet and then the roads to find a suitable repairer to fix the back of the van. We decided on Avant Garde of Derby – Mario did a fantastic job. They even took a video of their repair – see for yourself:-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ykYOrJ9Rcw

Scotland 2017

After just over a week we headed north for Scotland to revisit some of the places we had been to last year.

Selkirk with friends

Tinto Hill N 55.61943 W 3.64543 A glorious sunny late-afternoon drive to get there; a nice morning walk up the hill interrupted by squally showers!!

New Lanark N 55.66455 W 3.77840 Two other vans in the car parks (D & F). Superb walks down to the New Lanark site and up the valley to the Falls of the Clyde.

Loch Lomond N 56.01988 W 4.61822 with several other vans. Nice walking alongside the Loch and picking blackberries.

Tarbert N 56.20324 W 4.70981 Drove up to Aberfoyle, did the 'Three Lochs Forest Drive' and on to Loch Katrine. Retraced our steps and drove further up Loch Lomond. Just a car park but superb views of the loch. Us and 3 others. Superb clear evening.

Ardcastle N 56.07557 W 5.30799 Spent lots of the day in Inveraray before stopping at forestry site with 2 others. We arrived late and followed the yellow walk. Got a bit lost on the way back – we should have just gone to the old church/churchyard and the point and come back.

Cairnbaan Crinan Canal N 56.06111 W 5.49721

Around to Lochgilphead in lousy weather and to Crinan Canal – just as wet as last year. Felt really sorry for the lock-keepers – really, really wet. Eventually stopped in the Dunardry Forestry car park with 2 other vans.

Loch Earn N 56.39244 W 4.18612 CC#29863

Headed for Crief, Loch Awe and back to Inverary - checked out the Tourist Office (TO) – used their Wi-Fi The lead on the SatNav died. Stopped at Tyndrum TO for Forestry maps and brochures in awful weather. Stopped by Loch Earn after lots of concern re Trossachs Controlled area.

Perth N 56.39547 W 3.40227

Drove into nice village of Comrie and eventually found the car park for the Glen Lednock walk which we did anticlockwise. Nice walk – steep in places – ugly with clearfelling in others. Drove on along the A85 through Perth – stopped at the Quarry Car Park at Kinnoull Hill Woodland.- with one other van.. Lots of 'lock up your car' signs. Walked to top of hill for view and to pick blackberries and a few late raspberries..

Hawick N 55.42241 W 2.79121 CC#23799

Drove down to Perth after getting parking advice from local council workers. Perth looked great in the sunshine – particularly to us living in Perth in Australia. Flowers were superb, good mix of new and old architecture, nice river scenery and superb Rodney Gardens. Crossed off thoughts of visiting Edinburgh! Headed for the CC aire at Hawick. The new Forth bridge at Queensferry looked good but was causing lots of traffic problems. Due to open tomorrow when we are due to be back 'home' in Derby to get ready to fly back to Western Australia.

Some photos of our trip around Scotland

Some Holiday Statistics

Profile of Our Daily Distance Travelled (kilometres):-