BY MOTORHOME THROUGH THE AMERICAN WEST

The Log of a 6,000 mile Journey

October 2005 Part One: 1st to 13th October

Margaret and Barry Williamson

For the September Log of this journey, click here

For the rest of the October Log, click here 

The log can be read in conjunction with our: Travel Notes USA.

A full sequence of photographs of the journey can be seen at: Photos of USA.

This daily log gives an account of a 51-day motorhome journey through the American West by hired motorhome, leaving Los Angeles on 15 September 2005. It is our fourth visit to this beautiful country.

During our summer holiday of 1992, we cycled 3,500 miles in 46 days from Vancouver in the west  to Niagara Falls and Toronto in the east, but mainly on the American side of  the border with Canada. This is the northernmost of the 3 classic cycling routes which cross the USA. With its wide broad-shouldered roads, light traffic away from the freeways, great distances, mountains, high plains, deserts, prairies, rivers, lakes and forests, friendly people, inexpensive motels on the old and now deserted US Highways and a culture that supports feeding, watering and sheltering travellers 24/7, America is ideal for both the cyclist and the motorhomer!

In February 2001 we returned to the USA, after crossing Australia by bicycle and riding 4,500 miles up and down the full length of New Zealand. On this occasion, we rode the southernmost route: 3,500 miles from Los Angeles to Key West via San Diego, the Mexican border, the Gulf coast and down the east coast of Florida through Miami and along the Keys.

In January 2003, after a New Year in Los Angeles, we paid a brief visit to friends Dick and Audrey Valentzas (first met motorhoming in Sicily) who live in San Rafael in Marin County, a few miles north of San Francisco. We cycled a little with Dick in the Marin County hills, where the mountain bike was born, and rode across the Golden Gate Bridge to explore the hills of San Francisco with their daughter, Paget Valentzas.   

The proposed route for this fourth visit to the USA will take us inland (east) from Los Angeles to explore Arizona and its well-catalogued attractions, heading north and east to Denver, returning west to meet the Pacific Ocean north of San Francisco. The coast road south will then take us back to Los Angeles, having used up our motorhome allowance of 6,000 miles.

We highly recommend the family firm from whom we have hired our 'RV' (Recreational Vehicle). Klaus and Gabi Hollerith run an excellent small business – Happy Travel Campers (campervan and motorhome rental and sales) - located very near Los Angeles International Airport (or LAX). They employ other German-speaking workers, who all have an excellent command of English and a very competent and friendly approach to their work. See their fleet and get a quote from www.camperusa.com.

We found them through a helpful agent, Michael Preller, who has other contacts throughout the US and Canada. Visit him at www.destinationusa.net.  

This log of what actually happened on our journey should be read in conjunction with Travel Notes USA, which gives a lot of background information on travelling and motorhoming in this glorious country, as well as details of the motorhome we used.

The distance driven is given in miles, along with the cost in US $ of a powered site for 2 adults at the named Campground, RV Park or State Park, taking account of any available discount.

Exchange rate at the time of travel is $1.7 to the pound sterling, the US $ having decreased in value since our last visit when it was $1.4.

Map of the Motorhome Journey

October 1     67 miles     MESA VERDE, A&A RV Park, COLORODA     ($27.00)

The Cliff Dwellings of Mesa Verde National Park: Ancestral Puebloan Sites

From the KOA campground 3 miles east of Cortez on US.160, we drove 8 miles further east to the Mesa Verde National Park entrance, at 6,273 ft. Our 12-month National Parks Pass ($50) saved the $10 per vehicle entrance fee. Mesa Verde (= Green Table) is the USA's premier archaeological site and its first World Heritage Site. The National Park celebrates its centenary next year. See www.nps.gov/meve.  

The road began to climb immediately, reaching 7,760 ft after 4 miles, by the turn for the Morefield Village and Campground (no trailers beyond this point). The 15 RV places with hookups were already taken, though there were plenty of unpowered sites.

Another 6 miles of climbing (including a short tunnel), with snow at the roadsides above 8,000 ft, culminated at Park Point. There is a car park at 8,535 ft and a 5-minute walk up to a Firewatch Tower leads to the highest accessible point at 8,570 ft, with views across 4 States. We saw 3 mule deer in the woods, which were very sparse after 2 serious forest fires in 1996 and 2000. Caused by lightning strikes in drought conditions, they destroyed thousands of acres of pines. Other wildlife included grey squirrels and a turkey vulture which landed noisily in a tree.

5 miles further to the Far View Visitor Centre (with seasonal accommodation) at 8,069 ft, where we parked for lunch in the sunshine. Then a 6 mile descent to the Chapin Mesa Museum at 7,000 ft. The excellent free museum detailed the history of the Ancestral Puebloans (also known as Anasazi), a stone age culture with baskets, weaving and pottery but no metals.  Their many villages dating from 600 AD to 1300 AD developed from primitive pit houses to stone-built cliff dwellings. They lived on the mesa-top where they farmed and hunted, then in the last 100 years of their history they built the famous multi-storied cliff houses, preserved and protected by overhanging ledges on the canyon walls.

Below the museum, the Spruce Tree House is the third largest cliff dwelling among  several hundred in the park: an astonishing sight, like a clay model village of square stone towers blending into the cliff face. From the terrace opposite, an artist sat at her easel mixing oil colours – we took the easier way, digital cameras clicking, then walked down for a closer look. It was too hot for the 3-mile walk to see petroglyphs and we continued driving, first round the Cliff Palace Loop, then the Mesa Top Loop. Each loop is about 6 miles, round two mesas divided by Cliff Canyon.

On the Cliff Palace Loop, both Cliff Palace and Balcony House (cliff dwellings) can be toured with a guide for $2.75 per person per tour (tickets from Far View Visitor Centre), but we got excellent views of both from above. Balcony House viewpoint did require a 1.5 miles return walk through woodland above Soda Canyon, where we startled a snake on the path – though not as much as it startled us!

The Mesa Top Loop, on the west side of the canyon, has many more sites to view, ranging from the earliest pithouse (about 575 AD) to the splendid Square Tower House (AD 12-1300), the tallest of the cliff dwellings.

Visitors have to return by the same route to the National Park exit. A road by the Far View Visitor Centre turns west to Wetherill Mesa and its sites (including Step House cliff dwellings), but this route is only open in summer.

The whole experience was fascinating, yet very puzzling. Where and why did these people go, so suddenly, after living in their many stone-built homes for less than a hundred years? And still Stone Age in the 13th century AD? So skilled, yet so primitive compared with European culture.

Back down on highway 160, there are 2 RV/campgrounds near the National Park entrance at 7,000 ft. We went for the first one, pleasantly wooded with a log cabin recreation room (and got a discount for being over 55).

For more on Mesa Verde, see www.mesaverdecountry.com, www.visitmesaverde.com or www.mesaverde.org.

Warning: Cyclists should ignore the description given in the leaflet 'Mountain and Road Bike Routes – Cortez, Dolores and Mancos'. There is no way that we would describe the 48-mile roundtrip from Cortez to the Chapin Mesa and beyond as '4-6 hours, intermediate'! The National Park road is narrow and busy, with no shoulder, and the climb to 8,572 ft has to be done twice! Not recommended – if you want to see the ruins, take a drive.

October 2     152 miles     MONTROSE, Cedar Creek RV Park     ($24.70)

Over Red Mountain Pass on the San Juan Scenic Byway – golden aspen and snowy peaks

Heading east from Mesa Verde on US.160, there was a Pioneer Museum, motel and shop at Mancos, after 8 miles. The road rose and fell, climbing to over 8,000 ft with snow posts standing ready along the edges. The deserts are now behind us, with forests of pines and deciduous trees, contrasting hues of evergreen and gold, and pastureland with cattle and barns. Elk meat is advertised – the hunting season is upon us.

We passed the chairlifts of the Hesperus ski area (at 8,232 ft on the road), then dropped to the busy mountain town of Durango at 6,512 ft, about 30 miles from Mesa Verde. Durango is an 1880's silvermining town, with RV Park, railway station, tree-lined streets, Victorian buildings, a population of 15,000 and so many motels that one had a sign: 'Last motel for 150 ft'! A historic narrow-gauge steam railroad has been operating from Durango to Silverton since 1882 (once to bring gold and silver down from the San Juan Mountains, now to give tourists an adventure). Visit www.durangotrain.com and you can even hear it! It was fine, dry and cooler – 61 degrees at noon.

Turning north on US.550, we followed the Animas River and the narrow-gauge railway, climbing the eastern arm of the San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway (a 232-mile circular drive). After 23 miles, passing a couple of RV Parks and ranches selling things like mountain honey, beef, eggs and home-made cheeses, we entered the San Juan National Forest. We liked the fire-warning: 'A beautiful forest is a matchless sight', though the regular sight of exclusive retirement/golf communities did intrude on the magnificent view. There were also lodges to accommodate those hunting, kayaking or horse-riding and we even saw a few cyclists.

Up at the Needles (8,825 ft), there is fuel, café, Silverpick Lodge and ski-rental. Past mountain resorts (and land open to the development of more): Durango Mountain Resort (17 miles north of Durango), Tacoma Village, The Inn (a more modest motel), all surrounded by stunning golden aspens, quivering in the wind, at the height of their fall colors. Sighting Engineer Mountain (its summit over 12,000 ft) ahead, we had our first glimpse of snowy peaks.

About 40 miles north of Durango, we reached Coalbank Pass Summit at 10,640 ft, then hair-pinned down past Twilight Peak before climbing again, still through the San Juan National Forest, past Andrews Lake to Molas Pass at 10,926 ft. Just before the pass, we were delayed by a traffic accident queue – one of the many motor-bikers riding the Skyway (often without helmets) had come to considerable grief and faced a long ambulance ride back to Durango. Sobered, we joined others for a break at the Molas viewpoint.

The road now dropped to Silverton - the 10 mile stretch of highway since Coalbank Pass claiming to be the most avalanche-prone road in North America, crossed by 100 avalanche paths!

Silverton, in the heart of the San Juan Mountains at 9,318 ft, was another Victorian mining town which has made the transition to tourism and ski-ing. The discovery of gold and silver in these mountains caused the displacement of the Ute Indians and the rapid construction of the railway, followed by the road. Today it has a Visitor Centre, 3 RV Parks, Theatre, Historical Museum and Courthouse, the Old Hundred Gold Mine Tour, plenty of motels and hotels with names like 'the Miner's Tavern'. See www.silvertoncolorado.com. As we arrived, a train steamed into the station, the terminus of the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, in a haze of black smoke.

Next we climbed the highest pass on the San Juan Skyway, Red Mountain Pass at 11,118 ft, the watershed of the Animas and Uncompahgre Rivers. The air was cold and thin, and we thought of the gold-ore waggoners toiling over the rough track here in 1876 (according to the information boards). Descending, we paused at the Red Mountain Mining Overlook at 10,667 ft, with a view of the wooden headframe and relics of the Yankee Girl Silver Mine (busy until the 1950's, closing in the 70's).

Indeed, the 23 miles from Silverton to Ouray is known as the 'Million Dollar Highway', an engineering marvel built in 1884 to link the 2 mining camps. Red Mountain is well-named, a colourful backdrop to the green and gold trees. Descending, the highway clung precariously to the walls of Uncompahgre Gorge and we were on the outside unguarded edge, glad that the weather was dry! 

The city of Ouray at 7,833 ft dates from 1876 and is known as the 'Switzerland of America'. At the tip of a valley, where the mountains close in to form canyons, it has natural hot spings, Victorian buildings and many motels. Though popular with climbers, it didn't exactly remind us of Switzerland!

Continuing, we entered the Uncompahgre National Forest and came to the hamlet of Ridgway, 9 miles north of Ouray, with food, fuel and a railway museum. Then 25 miles or so, across a grassy plain at about 7,000 ft, past the Ridgway State Park and Colona (with a Good Sam RV Park), to the large city of Montrose at 5,900 ft.

Entering on US.550 we passed a Ute Indian Museum and then the shopping zone, starting with a Super Walmart. Turn right (east) in the centre, on US.50, for the motel and campground zone. After about a mile there are 2 Good Sam RV Parks and we chose the second (marginally cheaper and less crowded). WiFi internet was available for a fee, but as 'management' was absent until tomorrow morning we couldn't access it!

For more tourist information, visit www.durango.org, www.ouraycolorado.com and www.visitmontrose.net.

October 3/4     74 miles     GUNNISON, KOA RV Park     ($26.36)

Past Black Canyon and Mesa Blue Lake to Gunnison; a ride to Hartman Rocks and a change in the weather

Before leaving Montrose, we returned to shop at Safeway, making 2 discoveries. First, larger stores with a fuel station offer the cheapest petrol yet (with 3 cents/gallon discount for Safeway Club members, plus another 3 cents off for spending over $50 in the store). Club membership is free and we'd already joined, to get special offers. Secondly, supermarkets in Colorado are not allowed to sell alcohol – we have to go to a 'Liquor Store' for a bottle of wine. (Laws, and purchase taxes, vary from State to State.)

Restocked, we continued east on US.50. After 10 miles we passed a café at the entrance road to Black Canyon, the US's newest National Park, to our north. The boat trip through the canyon on the Gunnison River sounded good but it only ran from 'Memorial Day through Labor Day' (last Monday in May to first Monday in September). See www.nps.gov/blca for more.

Cresting Cerro Summit at almost 8,000 ft, the snow-fencing was already in place and we saw our first skunk (dead on the road). Down to tiny Cimarron (10 miles on, at 6,950 ft), with a store and fuel, after which we passed a couple of RV parks with camping and cabins by a river, among sheep and cattle farms.

The road climbed again for 12 miles, reaching 8,720 ft, with a near view of a flat-top mesa and more distant snowy summits, notices about elk hunting and a sighting of one deer by a stream among the golden trees. It would make a good quiet, but strenuous, long-distance cycle route.

After another 6 miles we had our first view of the huge Blue Mesa Lake (the Gunnison River dammed into Colorado's biggest reservoir and power station), with a motel and camping, where we entered the Curecanti National Recreation Area. See www.nps.gov/cure for details of fishing (40-lb trout?) and boating permits.

At Lake Fork (40 miles from Montrose and 26 before Gunnison) we turned left, past a boat ramp and campground, to the Blue Mesa Dam at 7,557 ft. We had lunch here, below the West Elk Mountains, where minerals, coal and marble were once mined. The thermometer, bought this morning, recorded 82 degrees F inside.

US.50 continued east, crossing the lake and following its waters past several tent-camping sites. At Elk Creek, 13 miles from Lake Fork at 7,651 ft, there is a Visitor Centre and RV Park, then Lakeside Resort and RV Park. The lake gradually narrows to a river, and so to Gunnison, with Mesa RV Park 4 miles before town and the KOA Park 2 miles nearer, just behind the small airport, at 7,700 ft.

The KOA is surrounded with golden trees and green grass – the bare sand and gravel of the deserts are past, and Gunnison claims to be the Wildflower Capital of Colorado. We had a short (8-mile) cycle ride before making dinner, along the Gunnison River bank as far as the path went, then up to the Hartman Rocks Recreation Area entrance, freewheeling back. The temperature at 4 pm was about 75 degrees. Visit www.thrill.to/hartmanrocks.

Next day, the weather turned to strong gusty winds and rain: in a flurry of golden leaves the summer is gone! 'When will it snow?' – 'Any time' answered the KOA staff! Instead of the planned return to ride further among the Hartman Rocks, we worked on the internet with free WiFi in the comfort of our motorhome!

October 5     113 miles     BUENA VISTA, ARROWHEAD POINT CAMPING RESORT     ($22.27 with Good Sam discount)

Over the Continental Divide at Monarch Pass: 11,312 ft

After a cold night (down to 35 degrees F inside and out!), we tried the gas blown-air heating, which soon had the temperature up to 65 degrees after breakfast. As we continued east on US.50 we saw new snow on the mountain tops. The road climbed gently through cattle ranches with log cabins, red Dutch barns and white wooden farmhouses sheltered by golden trees.

33 miles on, after a trading post and RV Park at Tomichi Creek, we began the serious 11-mile ascent through forest to Monarch Pass summit. Snow gathered at the roadside above 10,000 ft, as we climbed past the Monarch Ski Area to reach the pass, at the top of the Continental Divide. This line is the watershed of America, dividing rivers flowing to the Pacific or the Atlantic. The height on the sign is 11,312 ft (our GPS added 16 ft).

We stopped for lunch with a view of fourteeners (14,000 ft plus peaks), though in summer we could have gone higher on the cable car to Monarch Crest (11,342 ft) – site of the world's highest 'Subway' sandwich shop! The gift shop/café at the car park, open all year (since 1954), has informative displays, from the mines of the 1800's to the local wildlife (moose, caribou, American elk, mule deer, fox, white mountain goats, etc – all stuffed for our admiration). We learnt that the area gets 350 inches of snow per year, due to start 'any time now'. Barry bought yet another cap.

A 10-mile descent followed, past another ski and snowboard area with chalets, then an RV Park, old mine workings, Monarch Lodge and café (5 miles down at 9,656 ft). At 9,000 ft, 8 miles below the Great Divide, we entered San Isabel National Forest – no more snow and mixed golden and evergreen trees. There was an RV and Camping Park at Monarch Spur and again at Heart of the Rocks (8,200 ft).

15 miles from the top we reached the 'Crossroads of the Rockies' at Poncha Springs, with motels and fuel at 7,500 ft. We continued 4 miles east to Salida, a city with Super Walmart, motels, hot springs, an RV Park, etc – and a 6,000 lb weight limit on the bridge out, over the Arkansas River. As we are fighting at 10,700 lb, we turned back to Poncha Springs and turned north there, on US.285.

Over the next 24 miles to Buena Vista, we passed Mt Antero, a fourteener rising grey and bare to the west. About 4 miles before Buena Vista, we turned east for a mile, across the Arkansas River (on this side of the Divide, it flows out to the Gulf of Mexico) at Johnson Village (fuel and stores) to a KOA campground but it looked bare and was having problems with its WiFi access. We backtracked and continued through Buena Vista (a well-named town at 8,000 ft, surrounded by mountains in the Arkansas Valley). We passed 2 or 3 Trailer Parks as we continued (largely residential, right by the road), and Mt Yale, another fourteener, reared to the west.

Then, 5 miles north of town, we stopped at an extensive 'Good Sam' park. The new owners, Joe and Kathy, took over the 'Crazy Horse Camping Resort' a year ago, renamed it and are working hard to revive its fortune. There are excellent new facilities and WiFi internet – no problem! At 8,500 ft, set on a hillside, we walked high into their woods as 3 mule deer came down for the night. Joe mentioned black bears, which we hoped not to see! We joined the Good Sam (RV Owner's) Club here - $12 for 12 months – and saved 10%.

We are in Chaffee County, among the Collegiate Peaks and the whitewaters of the Arkansas River. Summer temperatures range from 60-80 degrees falling to 40-50 in the evenings – it's not much cooler now, in the fall. See www.coloradoheadwaters.com.

October 6     139 miles     BUENA VISTA, ARROWHEAD POINT CAMPING RESORT (again)

Round the Top of the Rockies Scenic Byway – crossing the Continental Divide twice!    

Light powder-snow was falling through breakfast but didn't settle and soon the sun shone from a clear blue sky – a perfect day to travel along another of Colorado's scenic byways. See www.coloradobyways.org for details of the San Juan Skyway, the Top of the Rockies, and more. This was our guide and inspiration.

We headed north on US.24 into the San Isabel National Forest. Pines clung to the lower slopes, below bare brown rock, as we followed the railroad up the Arkansas Valley. Fishing, picnic and tent camping sites were signposted. After 9 miles, at Granite, there is a hostel and rafting centre at 8,900 ft, below mountain tops lost in a drift of snow and cloud. 4 miles on, by the junction with US.82 (going west to Aspen) is a motel, near which we saw a large herd of mule deer (with long furry ears).

Leadville (another 15 miles) at 10,152 ft proclaims itself 'The Cloud City: Historic Leadville, on Top of it All'. In 1877 it was the site of the most famous silver mine in the world, becoming the second largest city in Colorado by 1890. To the west looms Mt Elbert (Colorado's highest peak at 14,433 ft). The historic centre still has the Victorian Opera House, saloons and stores, while the modern end has the usual non-architecture of Safeway, Pizza Hut, etc. For motorhomers, the Sugar Loafin RV Park is 3 miles to the west (but closed by October), while in town the Leadville Corral RV Park was run-down and overpriced ($28.95). The motels say 'Welcome Hunters', while one café announced 'Elk's Up'. Sadly, the 'High Pies Shop' was closed.   

From here we drove 80 miles clockwise round the Top of the Rockies Scenic Byway loop. Starting off north-west, the next section of US.24 is called the '10th Mountain Division Memorial Highway', a good 2-lane road climbing 9 miles through pine forest to the Tennessee Pass. We are on the Continental Divide again at 10,424 ft. This pass is marked not by a visitor centre, but by reverent flags and war memorials to the 10th Mt Division and the 99th Infantry Battalion. The 10th Mt Div lost 990 men fighting in WWII Italy, men who bridged the Po and fought on into the Alps, men who trained in this very area to become the USA's only ski and mountain division. The 99th Inf Bn, 'the Vikings', were a special force engaged in the liberation of Norway, who also ski-trained here. Suddenly, we were transported to our own continent and the mountains we knew so well. A strange feeling, by the ski-lifts of Ski Cooper behind the monument.

Descending, on the Pacific side of the Divide, we left the headwater of the Arkansas but still had the railroad for company, serving mines past and present. At 9,300 ft, 6 miles down, we passed the remains of the army training camp, just before today's White Hale campground.

After another 6 miles, at 8,770 ft, there was a bus stop (!) and picnic place just before a high bridge over the Eagle River (built 1940, rehabilitated 2004). We peered down to a mining settlement on the railway, reached by a very narrow side road, then passed below the snowy peak of Notch Mountain (13,237 ft) to the west. We parked for lunch by abandoned mine workings, shortly before the small town of Minturn where there are rooms at the Minturn Inn, just below 8,000 ft.

The Scenic Byway joins the Interstate (I-70) 3 miles further on, and we turned east towards Denver (100 miles or so away). The busy freeway passed the modern mountain resort of Vail, home of the Colorado Ski Museum and Hall of Fame, and continued through the White River National Forest. We climbed again, regaining snow on the rocky verges, pausing at the Vali Pass Summit rest area at 10,630 ft to photograph the range of serious snowy peaks ahead. A narrow cycle-path appeared to shadow the Interstate to the south, empty of riders.

After 23 miles of I-70, we were pleased to turn off onto quiet US.91, leading south back to Leadville, 24 miles away. The affluent Copper Mountain ski resort at the interstate junction had its ski-lifts at the ready, awaiting more powder. The road climbed again, through the Arapaho National Forest, past a dammed lake rimmed by snowy pines, like a calendar of Canada. Above 11,000 ft now, we looked down on a huge area which was being cleared of derelict mine tailings, replanted and restored. Once, 3 boom-and-bust towns had filled the valley, mining gold, silver and lead. Kokomo had the highest Masonic Lodge in the USA (1882-1966).

A little higher, at 11,318 ft (or 11,346 on our GPS?), we recrossed the Continental Divide at Fremont Pass, the highest of our 3 crossings in 2 days! This pass was marked in yet another way – by the modern Climax Molybdenum Co mine. We descended, by the headwaters of the Arkansas River, back through the San Isabel National Forest to Leadville.

After shopping at Safeway, we returned to the peace of Arrowhead Point in time to see another mule deer sharing our campground.

October 7     205 miles    SILVERTHORNE/DILLON, SUPER 8 MOTEL     ($60.30)

Longest day so far, over the Continental Divide's highest pass to Glenwood Springs and east along the Colorado River

Leaving US.24 after 14 miles north, we drove to the ski resort of Aspen – 45 miles along US.82, a road which crosses the Continental Divide at Independence Pass (closed in winter and with a 35-ft vehicle length limit).

We re-entered the San Isabel National Forest, passed the Twin Lakes reservoir (reflecting the surrounding snow-capped 14,000 ft mountains under a clear blue sky) and  paused 6 miles along at Twin Lakes Village, with its seasonal café and cabins and the wooden Nordic Inn (1879). Then the road began to climb above 9,000 ft, passing trailheads for summer hikes, with tent-camping sites at Parry Peak and Twin Peaks.

The serious ascent started 12 miles after Twin Lakes, with 5 miles of narrow road (luckily we were on the inside of the unguarded drop), zigzagging way above the tree-line and up to the Continental Divide's highest pass: Independence Pass signed at 12,095 ft (or 12,118 on our GPS). The peaks of the fourteeners now looked very near, the land was bare and bleak with snow patches and a biting wind. We realised we were at about the same height as New Zealand's Mt Cook, and 3 times higher than our own Ben Nevis!

A 6-mile hairpinning drop followed until a car park at Lost Man Trailhead (10,550 ft), after which we descended more gently, with lunch in a forest layby at 9,826 ft. The temperature inside the unheated motorhome was a pleasant 79 degrees (after a night below freezing!)

We passed more forest tent-camps (all closed now), the yellow-golden-orange trees returning as our height dropped, until we reached Aspen 22 miles after the summit at 8,000 ft. The modern luxury ski resort is well-named (its streets lined with golden aspen trees), but it had nothing else to detain us. We entered along Main Street (as ever), leaving past the waiting ski-slopes and the airport with its lines of private planes.

US.82 now became a busy 4-lane highway north-west to Glenwood Springs, where it meets the I-70 freeway. In winter, with Independence Pass closed, it is a one-way road to Aspen but it is busy enough to have a 'car pool' lane, unseen since Los Angeles, and a phone number for Road Rage incidents! We didn't stop in Basalt (17 miles from Aspen at 6,200 ft), which had the first RV Campground, nor in Carbondale, in the shadow of 13,000 ft Mt Sopris – their names suggest the landscape.

At the large city of Glenwood Springs, 40 miles after Aspen, we met the I-70 and the Colorado River, running together east-west. Here are hot springs, motels, shops, restaurants and ski-ing on Sunlight Mountain, but little for campers. The Rock Gardens Resort, wedged between the freeway, the river and the railway line, just east of the city, demanded $38 for a night – and the best sites, along the riverbank, were reserved for 100 kayakers about to arrive! We decided against!

Heading east on the Interstate, through the canyon shared with the Colorado River and the railway, we drove on the lower level (westbound traffic perched on stilts above us), with a couple of tunnels to ease the gradient. A cycle path followed the river bank below. After 15 miles (5 miles before Gypsum), we turned off to check the advertised 'River Dance RV Resort'. It was unfinished (toilets & showers under construction) and the price was $31 cash only (unheard of!) Again, we declined this generous offer. Of course, they knew that there was no alternative for a long way, as we were entering the Vail Ski Resorts area, with no camping.

Continuing on I-70, as dusk began to fall, we reasoned that a motel room would be better value, and certainly easier to find. Turning off at Avon, about 50 miles after Glenwood Springs, we enquired at the Comfort Inn. Seeing our dismay at the suggested $99.99 (which came down to $89.99 for 'Seniors'), the kind receptionist suggested we keep going, past the ski resorts of Vail and Copper Mountain, and take a room in Silverthorne/Dillon – a bigger town with plenty of motels (and therefore competition).

And so we did, repeating the section of I-70 driven on yesterday's scenic loop but continuing past the Leadville exit to Dillon (at 8,850 ft). It was a splendid drive, reaching 10,630 ft on the freeway under a silver crescent moon. Motels were clustered round the interchange and we headed straight for the Super 8 and its customary warm welcome.

A big TV, even bigger bed, the luxury of a bath, complimentary non-stop tea/coffee/hot chocolate/apple or orange juice, and a light breakfast were all included. We fell asleep watching a 'Harry Potter' on the Disney Channel – and all for less than twice the price of today's campgrounds! Visit www.super8.com for over 2,000 motels in USA and Canada.

October 8/10     132 miles    ESTES PARK, Elk Meadow RV Park     ($31.47)

Under and over the Continental Divide; through the Rocky Mountain National Park on the Trail Ridge at 12,185 ft – the Roof of the Rockies - the day before snow closes it!

Well rested, we drove a little further east on I-70 after filling up with petrol at $3 a gallon (= about 48 pence a litre). Complaining bitterly, no US citizen believes that we pay double that in the UK!

The Interstate rose steadily for 8 miles, reaching 11,167 ft before entering the Eisenhower Memorial Tunnel, which runs underneath the Continental Divide. We emerged from it at 10,900 ft in the Arapoho National Forest, by an exit for the Loveland Ski Area.

Descending (gradient 6%) past the workings of the Silver Plume Historic Mine, we paused at Georgetown, 22 miles from Dillon, at 8,500 ft. The town is proud of its Victorian buildings and also has a few motels (including Super 8), fast food and an excellent Visitor Centre (with free coffee, historical video, good map of Colorado, 15-minute free internet access and a nice range of books and gifts – you have to pay for those!) See www.town.georgetown.co.us.

We left the Interstate 5 miles along, at Empire, and drove west for 7 miles on US.40. Then the road turned north to zigzag its way up to yet another crossing of the Continental Divide, over the Berthoud Pass at 11,315 ft (or 11,363 according to our Magellan!) Under another perfect blue sky, we lunched next to the avalanche warning sign, alongside cross-country skiers in search of snow.

Hairpinning down, with early warnings of rock falls and snow slides, we passed the Robbers Roost and other tent camps in the forest (closed), before the Winter Park Resort buildings (Starbucks and all) obtruded at 9,210 ft, 25 miles from the freeway exit. A little lower came Beaver Village (ski lodges and condominiums) and humbler Fraser, with its Safeway supermarket, McDonalds, Super 8 Motel and a cinema at 8,700 ft. It was now down to 61 degrees at 2 pm.

Across 15 miles of cattle ranches came Granby at 8,000 ft, with more accommodation. The wooden Frontier Motel boasted 'Highly Recommended by Owner'! After a tea-break, we turned north-east on US.34 for the final 62 miles to Estes Park, which lay on the far side  of the Rocky Mountain National Park, over the Continental Divide (again) and the Trail Ridge Pass.

Past Lake Granby reservoir, then Shadow Mountain Lake and Grand Lake (with fishing, sailing, tent and RV camping), we came to the Kawuneeche Visitor Centre and entered Rocky Mt NP 15 miles from Granby ($10 per vehicle, or show our 12-month NP pass). This National Park (established 1915) has the highest average elevation of all US Parks and is home, among others, to Black Bear, Mountain Lion and Elk (none of which we saw, though the birdlife was good!) The Trail Ridge road is generally closed from mid-October to June. Visit www.nps.gov/romo.

Snow appeared on the verges as we climbed above 10,000 ft. At 10,600 ft, in pine forest, a sign reminded us we were '2 miles above sea level'! We crossed the Continental Divide again at Milner Pass at 10,758 ft. Here, we walked by a small tarn and learnt that beaver trappers once worked the area, hunting the animals almost to extinction for their fur and trading with the native Indians. This is our seventh crossing of the Divide and we're losing track of where we are: must be the Atlantic (eastern) side.

Strangely, the road climbed higher still, above the treeline at 11,300 ft, past the Alpine Visitor Centre and snack bar at 11,796 ft (highest in the US, already closed and battened down for winter) and across the bleak tundra to reach an incredible 12,185 ft at the highest point on the Trail Ridge, 26 miles into the Park. A little further along, at Forest Canyon Overlook (11,716 ft), we were able to take a short (breathless) walk to survey the canyon – a sea of fir and spruce trees below the tundra (a Russian word meaning 'treeless'). Very little snow, even at this height, though it is forecast for tomorrow.

16 miles below the summit we reached the National Park's eastern exit at Beaver Meadows, down at a more comfortable 8,166 ft. The KOA campground at nearby Estes Park is full tonight, but we found a place on the larger Good Sam park at Elk Meadow, just half a mile from the exit on Highway 66. In the shadow of the Rocky Mountain NP, with good facilities (including free WiFi internet), it closes 'any time soon' when the snow comes. Visit Estes Park at www.tourestes.com.

The snow came next day. We woke to a leaden sky, the mountains quickly vanishing in mist as the morning rain turned to afternoon sleet. A chance to rest, read, write and do the laundry! The following morning (Columbus Day, a national holiday) fine snow was settling, the temperature outdoors 35 degrees, and a severe weather warning on the radio predicted worse to come. We turned up the blown-air heating and decided on another day at Elk Meadows – maybe the animals will even come down off the mountains. With a good WiFi internet link, we can get the BBC news and 

October 11     152 miles     LARAMIE, KOA RV Park, WYOMING     ($28.71)

From the Colorado Rockies to the Prairies of Wyoming: the Cowboy State

Pausing only for a final hour on the WiFi internet, we drove through Estes Park and east on US.34, gradually descending as we followed the beautifully wooded gorge of the Big Thompson River for 33 miles to the city of Loveland. Green and gold trees and snow-roofed wooden cabins lined the banks of the tumbling river. There was an RV Park 11 miles along near the Sleepy Hollow Park, and a few miles further at Drake a restaurant and camping by the river, where we parked for lunch and watched a pair of fishermen casting their lines.

It was downhill all the way, from over 8,000 ft to 6,000 ft by the small Idylwilde Dam on the Big Thompson. The snow line was still visible in the pines and rocky slopes above us but the threat of heavy falls has moved south to Boulder and Denver. We emerged from the rocky defile about 7 miles before Loveland, passed a couple of RV Parks and drove straight through the city (at about 5,000 ft). It had all the usual stores and motels, parks and a lake. The Loveland RV Park was about 3 miles east of town, a mile before reaching the Interstate which runs north-south.

Turning north on I-25, the transition from winding Rocky Mountain roads to the arrow-straight highways of the plains and prairies was sudden and dramatic. We drove by fields of wheat and sunflowers, with a receding view of snowy peaks. Past the exits for Fort Collins, then Wellington (with a KOA), we rose gently to 6,150 ft at the Colorado-Wyoming State Border after about 40 miles on the Interstate, welcomed by adverts for fireworks – yes, gunpowder is OK in Wyoming!

A  break to collect free maps and information at the State Visitor Centre, just by exit 7 (about 2 miles before the State capital, Cheyenne). Our first time in Wyoming, a name evoking images of cowboys out on the range, and the furthest point east reached this tour.

Turning west on I-80 just before Cheyenne, at about 6,300 ft, we crossed the snow-flecked prairies dotted with black cattle (and the odd deer) under a vast threatening sky.  The busy Interstate rushed across the empty landscape, its lanes clear of snow: a major trans-continental route from San Francisco to Chicago.  At 8,300 ft a sign announced entry to Medicine Bow Forest – a quaint name, but no trees yet!

At the top of the Laramie Range at 8,640 ft (the highest point on the whole length of the trans-continental I-80) is the Summit Rest Area, complete with a bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln poised on a 30 ft high stone base. Then a descent to Laramie (about 50 miles from Cheyenne), a historic railroad town at 7,166 ft, in the shadow of the Rockies again, which loom eerily from the misty, snowy shadows to merge with the clouds. The territorial prison here once held such desperadoes as Butch Cassidy.  See www.laramie.org.

We shopped at Wal Mart, the main purchase being an electric fan heater, made in China, for the princely sum of $9.99 (or £5.90 - less than a refill of propane!) and just the thing for these mountain nights. Just learnt that Wal Mart is the largest employer in the USA: it's hard work keeping war with China at bay! There was a small gathering of monster RVs in a corner of its massive car park, settling in for the night, generators running.   

The KOA here is set hard against Interstate junction 310 next to a large truckstop and filling station – not the most scenic location and way overpriced, but convenient for our onward route. Rain set in after dark and the WiFi internet wasn't working – no scratch cards available!

October 12     133 miles     GOULD, North Park KOA, COLORADO     ($23.09)

Back into Colorful Colorado and over the Cameron Pass at 10,276 ft

In Laramie we had a quick look at the 'historic downtown' along the railroad, then found the Albany County Library (between the University of Wyoming and the Community College), to print a few pages of the format for the first part of our planned trans-America cycle route (from San Francisco to Fort Collins), loosely based on that ridden by Ann Mustoe in 1988.

We left town on the quiet US.287, south towards the State border. The road climbed gently to over 8,000 ft, through sparse prairie with lines of snow fencing ready for the drifts to come. After 30 miles we crossed the State line at 7,579 ft, marked by the usual large signs 'Wyoming Welcomes You' behind us, 'Welcome to Colorful Colorado' ahead. We spent a few interesting minutes talking to the friendly Colorado State Patrolman, Officer Kitzmiller, complete with bullet-proof vest and a holsters round his belt. He told us that the total weight of his uniform (all wool) and equipment was 33 pounds (13.5 kg). He also said that he would continue his chase across the state border, if necessary – destroying several good Hollywood film myths!

3 miles along, a historical sign marked Virginia Dale – a stage station and camp on the overland route to California in the 1860's. We tried to imagine the journey of these emigrants, often detained by Indian raids. Nowadays, Virginia Dale consists of a post office/café (closed) and a white wooden church, serving the scattered ranches. Dirt tracks led off to places like Red Mountain and Granite Canyon.

Another 15 miles to the crossroad at 'The Forks' restaurant and fuel station at 5,914 ft, where we made lunch by a horse ranch. Then 7 miles to Ted's Place, down at 5,260 ft: the junction of US.287 (which runs another 10 miles to Fort Collins) and US.14, on which we turned east. At Ted's Place there is a KOA camp and a Conoco fuel station/store.

On US.14 we now joined and followed Ann Mustoe's route in reverse (read 'A Cycle Ride' by Anne Mustoe), climbing up the canyon of Cache la Poudre ('Hide the Powder'?) This wild scenic river rises in the Rocky Mountain National Park and is good for rafting, kayaks and trout fishing. Private cabins and lodges were not entirely screened by the gold and green trees along its banks.

9 miles above Ted's Place, at Poudre Park (5,683 ft), the Columbine Lodge (camping, food and cabins) is where Ann spent the night after crossing the passes. Ascending through the Roosevelt National Forest, the river banks offered numerous simple campgrounds. The first was 3 miles above Columbine Lodge, at 5,876 ft; the next was 4 miles higher at 6,124 ft, after which the gradient became steeper. We passed 4 more campgrounds in the next 9 miles, at which point, at 6,870 ft, a sign announced 'Cameron Pass – 35 miles'.

Another 4 miles to Indian Meadows Lodge (cabins and food) at 7,072 ft, then Rustic Resort at 7,198 ft – the first of a series of new resorts over the next 4 miles, up to the Arrowhead Lodge Visitor Centre (closed for winter – summer cabins, but no camping) at 7,444 ft. The snow was lying above 7,000 ft.

At  7,750 ft we passed the State Trout Rearing Unit on the Poudre (got to keep the fishermen happy with non-native fish!), just before a row of 5 simple campgrounds along the river.

A treat awaited us at 8,140 ft, where a flock of Bighorn sheep and rams (the emblem of the Rocky Mt National Park) were resting near the road. Looking more like deer, with their light brown fur, some of them wore yellow collars with a number and a transmitter. They are wild animals but were remarkably placid, not spooked by photography or the photographer (Barry kept away!)

Above 9,000 ft the snow was lying thickly, sparkling on the pine trees, but the road was still clear. We reached 10,000 ft at the Joe Wright Reservoir, 3 miles before the top of Cameron Pass. The summit, at 10,276 ft and 57 miles from Ted's Place, is marked by an information board. (It's not on the Continental Divide, but is actually higher than the next pass on the Divide.) The snow was now deep, the wind sharp, and we avoided a small rockfall on the road as we descended, entering the Colorado State Forest.

6 miles down at 9,320 ft was a campground at Ranger Lakes (with some hook-ups). Another 2 miles to the Moose Visitor Centre at 9,065 ft, which had just closed (at 5 pm). Outside is a beautiful life-size statue of a moose, made entirely from barbed wire (7 ft tall at the shoulder!)

Past a couple of places with cabins, then 13 miles below the summit, tucked in the pine forest at 9,000 ft, is an excellent KOA, with fuel and store and the usual log cabins - holder of KOA awards in 1999 and 2004. We were the only campers, but the welcome, the water and the morning coffee were very warm. Bob & Linda told us the passes are generally kept open through the winter, despite heavy snows from November to May or even June! Our only disappointment was the lack of elk and moose – though we did see 2 chipmunks!

October 13     116 miles     HAYDEN, Yampa River State Park     ($21.00)

Over the Continental Divide twice and down through Steamboat Springs

After our coldest night so far – below freezing outside with thick frost and icy puddles – we continued north-west on the US.14. The land was much gentler on this side of the Cameron Pass: meadows with haystacks and cattle at around 8,500 ft, following the Michigan Creek along the North Park valley, surrounded by 12,000-footers capped in snow.

After 18 miles, now in the Arapoho Wildlife Refuge, we stopped at a stunning Scenic Overview, at 8,228 ft. Braving the fierce wind we looked out over the vast basin of North Park, where Native Americans had once hunted game until trappers, loggers, miners and settlers took over.

The small town of Walden, 2 miles further at 8,154 ft, has a few motels and places to eat on Main Street, a library (afternoons only) and a splendid town hall by the Pioneer Museum. Most of the vehicles were horse trailers with bales of hay on the roof, driven by men in Big Hats! The temperature was 47 degrees at 11.30 am.

US.14 now turned south-west for Steamboat Springs, 60 miles away and over the Continental Divide (twice!) Across more high plains, past cattle stations with names like 'Grizzly Ranch'.

We met the broader, busier highway 40 at Muddy Pass, right on the Continental Divide, at 8,772 ft. Turning right (onto the Atlantic side), we crossed the Divide again 3 miles along at Rabbit Ears Pass, 9,426 ft, 37 miles from Walden. Now on the Pacific side, we have crossed the continent's watershed 9 times – this should be the last time we lunch on the Divide.

We continued to climb for 2 miles to 9,575 ft. After another 6 miles, past 2 forest campgrounds, came the West Summit of Rabbit Ears at 9,394 ft. A steep 7-mile descent followed, with a view of Lake Catamount below, then the road levelled for 5 miles into Steamboat Springs, a large ski resort with plenty of motels, shops, restaurants and a Visitor Centre. Steamboat did not attract us (hot springs and a museum with a history of ski-ing?) More importantly, its only RV Park, 2 miles west of the city, charged $32 a night, so we drove on, alongside the railway line and the Yampa River (which makes its way into the Colorado). Visit www.steamboat.com for more.

Hayden, a smaller town 25 miles from Steamboat at 6,370 ft, has one motel, supermarket and cafes. Just 2 miles further, on the left of the highway, is the splendid new Colorado State Parks Visitor Centre/Yampa River campground, at 6,400 ft. Smartly uniformed Rangers explained that we had to pay $5 for a daily visitor permit, plus $16 for camping with electrical hook-up. See www.parks.state.co.us for Colorado State Parks and their cabins and campgrounds. This is a very peaceful place by the Yampa, with new 'comfort station' and laundry, and a picnic shelter and grill by each site. Pleasantly warmer at this lower elevation: 63 degrees at 3 pm, no snow lying.