MOTORHOME TRAVELLERS' DIARY FOR DECEMBER 2001

GREECE

Barry and Margaret Williamson

01 DECEMBER 2001 GR CAMPING AGINARA BEACH

Another wet and windy day, cool enough to finally don long trousers and warmer tops, though we're not yet missing the electric blanket, dumped since it became dangerous. We gave Amaliada market a miss and stayed dry inside, working on the Brother word-processor. We wrote to Paul Hewitt in Leyland, fixing a date in January for him to check the cycles over and supply a saddle and tyres, enclosing a copy of the end-of-year letter and a photo. B also wrote to the CTC, sending them another copy of the round-the-world account together with an ASC II version on disk, as requested.

B started work on the bicycle overhaul, removing, stripping, cleaning, greasing and reassembling the derailleurs and winding both chains inside a large jam jar so that they could be covered in paraffin. M completed the diary for November, ready to copy, and we both read the rather boring October edition of the MMM, borrowed from Mick.

A fine day, for doing the dhobi, cleaning 6 pairs of muddy shoes and taking coffee with Mick & Flo while consulting their Greek dictionary for the word for paraffin (which turns out to be the same) - more parafino is needed for cleaning the bicycles. B stripped down all 4 pedals, cleaned, greased and reassembled them, replacing several sets of ball bearings showing signs of having turned the pedals several million times. The wheel bearings on M's bike were also disassembled, cleaned, repacked with grease and reassembled. They seem to be in good condition. The bikes were then washed and M's wheels refitted, with the tyres changed over - newish Schwalbe on the rear and the Continental from New Zealand on the front. Meanwhile the 2 chains were removed from their paraffin soaking, wiped clean, hung to dry from the ends of the awning before a final rinse in clean paraffin, drying and regreasing, ready for future fitting.

A welcome text message from Martin & Clare told us 'not to give up on them' and that a letter was coming. Yes, but are they? B texted back and we added a paragraph to an end-of-year letter for them, with photos and got it ready for the post.

M wrote to Mum and made up a packet enclosing an end-of-year letter, a form to post to the DSS Pensions for Barry, and a selection of round-the-world photos.

Evening TV was a comedy film with Schwarzenegger and Danny de Vito as unlikely twins.

A busy day out on Alf, wrapped up against the cold with a lovely backdrop of snowy peaks on the New Nat Rd. In Gastouni we photocopied the November diary to put in Mum's envelope, posted all the letters written over the weekend and collected our mail - a final receipt and confirmation from Travelbag (no going back now) and a useful catalogue from the YHA shops. We also left the end-of-year letter and round-the-world account for duplicating at a back-street printer's, found with the aid of Dionysus the photographer, but the printer wasn't able to make address cards to our satisfaction.

On to Amaliada and its Internet Cafe (the same price as the one in Vartholomio but with the advantage of coffee and WC). We checked on the Tandem-2-Oz pair but they hadn't updated their diary since Alexandroupoli and have perhaps given up, leaving it too late to cross Turkey before winter sets in. Again, it wasn't possible to print the Winter Fuel claim form, but we got the address of the Blackpool SS office. Turning to our Email letterbox, we found a reply from Alan, with the upsetting news that Mum had fallen last Friday but was now home, bruised and black-eyed, after a visit to Blackpool Victoria Casualty Dept. He thought that our Vodafone wasn't working, as Mum had tried to ring several times (but we got other messages OK over the weekend). Alan & Pauline had kindly checked out their Manchester Airport taxi firm (Dawson's) for us, and also found a storage place - Turnover Hall Farm at St Michael's! A coincidence and a good omen. An hour quickly passed, as it does once in front of the screen, then we went to see Peppas at his motorbike shop. He remembered us, and Alf, very well and it was good to talk to him again. He offered to store Alf for us if we want to leave him there, a good idea as he'll be able to revive him.

We were ready for chicken & chips in the Pikantiko (we are now well enough known to be offered a free ouzo after the meal) before returning home, calling at Dia and Lidl on the way and loading Alf almost to Greek standards (he just lacked a goat on the back and a couple of kids - of either type - squeezed between us).

Back at Aginara we reported on this week's bargains to our fellow-campers (sliced bread and tinned ham at Dia, honey at Lidl). Terry the Fireman (of Kneps Farm) would like Greece.

We checked the mobile phone by leaving ourselves a voice message, which was relayed within 5 minutes. On phoning Mum later, M found (as suspected) that she'd been misdialling the number, but she seems to have recovered remarkably well from the fall. We also sent Alan a text message on his new mobile phone, and replied to Ian & Nina's text, sent this morning, explaining how to find Aginara Beach.

B stripped, cleaned, greased and reassembled the bearings in his 2 bicycle wheels and gave Rosie a taste of WD40 and diesel oil. He also attempted to print more copies of our colourful address card, but lost the yellow, getting a ruddy sort of brown instead. But at least he was able to tell the difference!

M sorted out the food cupboards (resulting in a supper of bean & lentil soup, from various pulses which want using, with the addition of Bratwurst from Lidl to tempt Barry). She spent the afternoon on the telephone (very grateful for the new campsite phone): rang Travelbag to arrange to collect the tickets and query the check-in time at Manchester; booked a Dawson's minibus-taxi from Thornton to Manchester; made a dental appointment; spoke to Thornton Health Centre about inoculations (need to get a form via Mum to register as a patient); and chased up our passports at Visas Australia Ltd. They are now overdue and John is to Fax the High Commission.

The YHA catalogue which came yesterday has an excellent selection of camping, cycling, climbing and general outdoor clothing and equipment, all available from their shops, by mail order or from the web. Useful to get prices on things we need (thermarest mats, pak-towels, sleeping bag liners) so that we can compare them with Decathlon Stores in France, where we've been advised they're cheaper.

B finished putting the bicycles back together after their overhaul and started sorting and checking spares and tools for the next Big Ride. B also completed the Winter Fuel claim form for back-years (to be posted via Mum); M rang to demand this winter's claim form (again) and was assured it would be sent within 10 days. M also turned some local lemons into curd, lovely and golden yellow with Greek eggs (no battery hens here) and made a lemon sponge to fill with some of it.

After lunch, just as we'd got down to writing the site report on the Municipal at Alençon for the MMM, Ian & Nina Kenyon (30) arrived, along with their delightful boys, Louis (3½) and Sam (2). They are taking a year off to tour Europe before the kids start school, travelling in an M-registered Four Winds known as 'Homer', almost identical to our Rosie, which they'd got from a dealer in the south of England last March. Its 'one careful previous owner' had bought it from Midland International. The Swatman's, who met them in Italy, had put them in touch with us and we are the only other Four Winds they've seen, apart from one in an MMM article about Morocco!!

The rest of the day passed quickly, settling them in and getting to know each other - a very pleasant family, with the liveliest brightest 3½-year-old we've met in a long time! "I'm Louis, this is Sam, this is Daddy but Mummy calls him Ian" etc. Every bit of our motorhome had to be examined, compared, questioned "What does this do; why? Have you got a ....; why not?" etc. He never stopped talking - charming but exhausting! Their Four Winds had suffered worse transmission problems than ours, but was otherwise going well. They'd only arrived in Greece this morning (on the good old Afrodite from Brindisi) but already regretted not coming sooner, as their year is up in April. It was good to see children on the swings and slides opposite our window, collecting shells on the beach, exploring the campground and finding toadstools - "you mustn't eat them" Louis instructed us. Cliff & Eileen enjoyed meeting them too, having a young grandson themselves.

Later, when they were at last put to bed, we joined Ian & Nina for a drink and information exchange and got on very well. It turned out they didn't like the Swatman's either and found us much more like-minded (not naturists, for a start!) They'd been led to believe we were very old friends of Glen & Steve and were surprised to learn we'd only met them once before! A good evening till midnight.

In Gastouni we posted the Winter Heating form to Mum, shopped at the market, notable for the first of the new-born lambs on sale, and wondered why the bread shop was closed. Passing the church we saw a service in progress and realised it's St Nikolaus' Day, a popular saint in Greece, so the baker is obviously called Nikos. However, the printer's and photographer's were also closed, and we do know the photographer is a Dionysus! But he does have a middle name or two.

In Amaliada, Peppas was not to be found, the shop in the charge of his lad, but we found a new shopping basket for Alf across the road and then spent another hour with coffee and the Internet. We found addresses for Decathlon sports stores in France, to try for Thermarest mats etc, checked our itinerary on Travelbag.com and Emailed Alan, encouraging him to use text messages if poss.

We called at Lidl, buying chocolate Santas for Louis and Sam (most appropriate today), then just failed to get back home before heavy rain started. We were amazed, leaving Vartholomio, to pass Ian, Nina & 2 in a push-chair walking from the campground to Vartholomio (11 km each way)! They'd intended to cycle (each with a child-seat on the back) but found they needed a new innertube and hoped to get one. Impressed with such energy, independence (and optimism) we left them, after suggesting a taxi back if it kept raining (very inexpensive here).

Warmed by oxtail soup and dry trousers, we talked to Eileen & Cliff who immediately offered to fetch the family back in their car. Barry & Cliff drove down, found them just setting out to walk back as the rain had eased, and rescued them. They were very grateful, not having realised that hills get steeper on the way back.

B fitted Alf's new basket, M rang Visas Australia Ltd (again) and was assured our passports were still at the Embassy (again), and we updated diary and accounts.

The radio is trying to beatify George Harrison, who died of cancer a few days ago. Is that why Travelbag keep playing Beatles music while our phone card ticks away?

Barry motorbiked into Vartholomio to get Ian a couple of new cycle innertubes for his fat mountain-bike tyres (they'd found the bike shop closed for lunch yesterday), then replaced the much-repaired tube (9 patches) in his flat back wheel. Meanwhile, Ian washed and polished his Four Winds, to make a fitting neighbour for Rosie, and Margaret and Nina swapped microwave recipes and did drawings with the boys - motorhomes and planets were favourite.

After lunch the sun shone and we took the family cycling, the boys in child seats on the back of Ian & Nina's bikes. We offered a route on the level, round to Loutras Kyllini, but they protested they were quite fit enough for the climb to Kastro to see Chlemoutsi Castle. After all, they jog and do weight-lifting exercises, and we're as old as their parents ... They soon realised the difference that good cycles and genuine fitness make! We rode with them round the lanes to Loutraki and the sulphur baths, again offered a choice (left for the beach, right for the castle), then left them gasping for breath way below us, waiting for them by the restaurant 1 km from the top. We all admired the view over the water, watched the ferry returning from Zakynthos, waited till they had their breath and Nina had turned a few shades lighter, then persuaded them to push on to the castle. They agreed it was worth it, though, as we scrambled round the impressive fortress. Again, there was a woman in the ticket office, but she waved us in free of charge. We shared their bananas and our chocolate (despite it having nuts in, which the kids weren't normally allowed - part of a long list of forbidden goodies, including fizzy drinks, coffee, bubblegum and sweets).

The ride home was easier and quicker, arriving just before dusk at 5 pm. We joined Mick & Flo for a welcome coffee, leaving an exhausted Ian & Nina to recover - they went to bed at the same time as the children!

A message came from Visas Australia that the passports are on their way to us, registered post.

Today we reached the 30-day qualifying period for a lower rate at the campsite, and had considered moving on to Sparta. In the event, we decided to wait at least until our passports and winter heating claim form had arrived, and to see if the weather in the mountains improved (it's been unusually cold and snowy). Ian & Nina had planned to leave today too, to visit Amaliada market and continue to Ancient Olympia in time for a free Sunday visit, so we went round to see them off, only to find that their engine wouldn't start.

Barry worked under the bonnet with Ian, identifying a flat battery and rigging up a charging system. M went to pay the month's camping fee and also rang Mum, who is progressing well. She has to visit the Health Centre next week and will get us the new patient registration forms. After lunch, 'Homer' was willing to start but it was too late for the market, so they decided to leave tomorrow - our beach working its charm again (not unlike Circe's spell in the Odyssey, the days turning into years). We took Louis & Sam over for a couple of hours, pushing swings and building sandcastles for them to jump on. Louis loved being taken round the site on Alf, wearing his little cycling helmet and helping to steer. He was soon calling Barry 'Grandpa' and it was good to see the joy on both their faces.

In the evening we joined Ian & Nina for a beer and showed them the round-the-world photo album. They are off to explore the Peloponnese (first time in Greece), then meeting Nina's brother who is flying to Athens to join them over Xmas, but they'll be back here after New Year. They live at Bournemouth and invited us to visit any time after April. We may take them up on that, as they're near Portsmouth or Poole for cross-channel ferries, have space to park in the street, and are good intelligent company. Their patience with the boys is remarkable, Nina would make an excellent infant teacher, which she is considering training for. Ian has worked in publishing and computers, though went to agricultural college.

Again, a flat battery prevented an early get-away to Olympia for Ian & Nina, the sun shone and we all decided on an easy day, or as easy as Sam & Louis would allow. As their battery hadn't held its charge overnight, it obviously needs replacing. Barry helped Ian put it on to charge for 24 hours and they reluctantly agreed to get a new one fitted in Gastouni as they leave tomorrow (hopefully). We amused the kids (or is it the other way round). They had all their favourite things out in Rosie - the Russian doll, the torch, the compass, the flashing bike lamps, the crayons, the biscuits ... Barry recorded their voices on the tape player and took Louis for another motorbike ride while M did some drawing with Sam. The Australian tape was playing in the background and he suddenly squeaked 'Hairs on your bum' with much giggling - the Bundaberg Rum song! We hadn't even realised he was listening or understanding it.

We all spent the afternoon on the beach, flying B's kite and making mud pies, joined by Cliff & Eileen. Barry and Cliff strode along the shore, each with a small boy on their shoulders, enjoying surrogate grandfatherhood. Later, when Ian returned from a walk, Louis ran excitedly to meet him, then greeted him with 'Oh, I thought you were Barry' in disappointment! Mummy & daddy couldn't even get their (2-string) kite aloft, while ours soared high, though Sam didn't like it when we tied his bucket and Louis' jacket to the string and watched them lift into the air, along with M's walking stick. Floating above, like something out of Mary Poppins, it was a bit surreal. We gave the boys a bag of chocolate gold coins (from Lidl like all good things) and they went to bed happy, dreaming of Santa soon to come.

Homer's engine started and, after coffee and fond farewells, we gave the boys their chocolate Santas and waved them off, with some relief. With our time to ourselves again, we cycled over the hill to Vartholomio to buy bread, meat, fruit & veg, and met the family shopping at the market. More goodbyes, the boys upset that we were returning to Aginara Beach and they weren't.

After lunch Mick & Flo came round for coffee and we talked to Cliff & Eileen, all agreeing how quiet it was and how we missed the kids, as we looked out at the empty swings and the silent beach! Ian & Nina had a text message this morning from Linda & Oz (the couple who came and went with the Swatman's), to the effect that they'd found touring the Peloponnese cold and wet and were on their way to Patras for a ferry, so they won't be back. It seems we made a good decision to stay here, it's certainly the warmest corner, sheltered by Zakynthos.

A fine day for Rosie's first run out for 33 days, taking the 4 of us shopping. She was very relieved to visit the dump-point on the way to the gate, lightening her load by 35 gallons of waste, and she ran well. We paused in Gastouni to collect 2 packages of post, some photo reprints and 10 copies of the end-of-year letter (the printer mistook Barry's English 7 for a Greek 1, promising to print the remaining 60 by tomorrow). We then drove 42 miles along the New Nat Rd to Patras, parking in the layby opposite the AB supermarket. We made coffee before food-shopping. Mick & Flo got a frozen duckling for their Xmas dinner and M found brown sugar and glace cherries for Xmas baking and HP sauce for Barry - esoteric items unobtainable locally!

Next stop was the car park at Praktiker, to make a sandwich lunch and browse in the German DIY emporium for 12-volt light bulbs, WD40, grommets, etc. They didn't have the A4 paper and A5 envelopes we needed. A look in the Eurospar next door still failed to find marzipan for the Xmas cake and golden syrup, so we gave up and returned home, calling at the Autogas station by the canal to top up our LPG tank. We only know 3 such places in Greece (others in Athens and Thessaloniki).

We reached the site and settled in again just as it began to rain and go dark: good timing. A nice evening with a hotpot of cheese, spuds and baked beans, and our mail to open. Mum had sent the 9 maps which cross the USA, kindly provided by Campbell Clapp, along with suet for Xmas puds and mincemeat, chocs and liquorice allsorts (which we'll have to hide) and a nice card, cheque and letter. Alan's packet also contained a card and Christmas present, along with recent post - a card from the Frankland's with the address of their new bungalow in Huddersfield; card and annual letter from Ken Norris, still globetrotting in his 70's, courtesy of Saga; a letter from Cadogan Guides offering us a complimentary copy of the guide of our choice, in return for our critique of the guide to the Peloponnese; and the usual bank statements, Vodafone bill, etc. Turner's have spent yet more of our rent on carpet cleaning and stop-tap repair, but at least the mortgage has gone down again. The only concern was that Barry's 2 bank cards have not yet come, while M's card and PIN both arrived some time ago. HSBC strikes again! We texted our thanks to Alan and slept well. Eileen and Flo both complain that the rain and the sea keep them awake, but it would need an earthquake to rouse us!

After setting the dhobi going, M went to the phone to try and trace the missing bank cards. The number we had for our Huddersfield Branch had been discontinued (everything centralised in the name of progress - or profit). The Lost & Stolen Cards Centre didn't want to help, since we didn't know if they'd actually been issued, and the call was transferred to Customer Service. Their machine wouldn't recognise our account number (perhaps Greek call boxes are not touch-tone phones?) but, after some delay, we actually got hold of a real person. She confirmed that Barry's cards had been sent to a different address, but would only reveal where, or agree to cancel them, on his instruction (despite being a joint account, and M having all the secret pass numbers, date of birth, mother's maiden name, and answer to every other test question).

Why B's cards had not been sent to the address given on the forms, our letters, as used for several years for statements, etc, she couldn't say, but she kept referring to the problem as a 'change of address', not accepting that the cards and PINs could well be in the hands of someone dishonestly using them by now. Exasperated, M had to send Barry to the phone to go through the whole lengthy business of getting through to the right department again. He had difficulty in persuading them to take the matter seriously, issue new cards and cancel the missing ones (which had gone to Trinity Street, Hudds, an address we used only briefly when Peter Frankland handled our mail).

Customer Services insisted on transferring us to Cardguard, with whom we hadn't yet registered the cards as we didn't know their numbers till they arrived! Frustrated, B hung up and wrote them 'one of his letters', in the unlikely event that they have anyone who can read. In the midst of this performance, a British-registered Hymer (like Dick & Audrey's) arrived, and we remembered waving to it as we passed on our way to Patras yesterday. We were soon being shaken by the hand and congratulated on our writing by a hearty ex-matelot called Barney. He and June explained that our 'A-Z of Full-timing' series had appeared just as they were embarking on extensive motorhoming and had been the most useful thing they'd read in the MMM. They settled on the opposite pitch, recently vacated by Ian & Nina (and before them, the Swatman's), being the next best place, with sea view and tap (but we extracted a promise that they didn't have any under-fives on board!)

We talked at length in the afternoon and warmed to his outgoing nautical personality. He retired from the Royal Navy at 55 (2 years ago) and bought the Hymer in Holland. Partner June, a widowed English teacher, still has a house in Torquay. He is enjoying winter roaming, seeing more of Europe - he knows the shores of every country in the world, little of what lies inland. Last winter was Spain, but disillusioned with the costas and overcrowded campings they've come to try Greece, arriving yesterday in Patras - a story which is becoming familiar. In another 30 years, Greece may start having the same problems, as more discover its peace and beauty - we must stop recommending it to others!

Later, B got Alan's newsletter ready to post, together with a couple of photos (including the Cime de la Bonette) and M rang Mum to thank her for the parcel and see how she got on at the Health Centre. She'd postponed that till tomorrow, to go to the Verona Xmas Party, so she must be feeling better.

We Alfed into Gastouni to shop at the market, pick up 60 newsletters from the printers, who also sold us a ream of A4 paper and 10 A4 sheets of card for £2·80. We collected our passports from the post office - each came with a new Australian visa, valid for 6 months from date of entry, with a short list of conditions. We liked the first: 'No Work' (fine by us, if you don't count cycling)!

After lunch we joined Mick & Flo, Cliff & Eileen on the beach to fly the kite (harder today, with less wind) and watch the sun set over Zakynthos. With 4 English couples here now, we outnumber the German-speakers on the site, though they've outdone us with Xmas fairy lights round the awnings of their 2 vans. Barney is refreshingly politically-incorrect, and sports a large Union Jack on his German Hymer - 'I don't want them to think I'm a Hermann'.

Back inside Rosie's workshop, B patiently printed 112 multi-coloured address cards on the Brother, 8 to a sheet of A4 card. Each address card took 1½ minutes to do - 1 hour 48 minutes, not counting cutting them all out afterwards. But they'll last longer than the fruits of Margaret's labour - 2 Xmas puddings for the cupboard and seafood pasta for supper.

We talked to Barney & June, supplying them with information: updated Greek campsites list, (promoting Aginara to the first division); complete set of MMM articles to read; end-of-year letter with round-the-world ride; account of the journey from Morocco to Nordkapp. They passed on some magazines and more sailors' yarns, and Barney lent his nutcrackers and his muscle to open the almonds Mick had given us. M needed 2 oz for the Xmas cake and they yielded 2½ oz, so there weren't many to share.

M had the patience to ring HSBC again and finally got their assurance that the misdirected cards had been cancelled, new ones sent to Arundel Drive, and that nothing illegal had been taken from the account. Alan texted the good news that the Winter Fuel forms were on their way, and B replied: To: King Wenceslas From: Poor Man Subject: Gathering Winter Fuel - Thank You.

After lunch B began top-&-tailing the end of year letters and stuffing the envelopes, choosing a photo or two to go in each plus a round-the-world if necessary, starting with the non-UK ones. M got down to the serious job of making the Xmas cake, watched by Mick & Flo who came round and stayed for coffee. It baked perfectly in 2 hours, sharing the oven with a citrus loaf and a minced pork pie for dinner.

Yet another Saturday trip to Amaliada rained off! We agreed with Mick & Flo that it was too cold and damp for motorbikes and spent the morning chatting in the warmth of their Kon-tiki, with the usual jug of strong black coffee (they never drink tea). Nor do they eat biscuits, but they brought out a packet of chocolate digestives bought in Patras as a thank-you! We learnt about pressing olive oil (they'd visited the mill run by Jorgo's nephew, Iannis, and lent us an interesting book on the subject, with history, recipes, etc). Otherwise, the topics were the well-rehearsed tales of Stan & Celia, the folk in the village, 'our Mark', and remedies for Flo's dermatitis, as her hand has broken out again and they've paid the dermatologist in Amaliada a fortune for creams and tablets. It's probably ringworm.

After lunch it rained more heavily (but at least we don't have the snow regularly shown on the TV news in the hinterland - it seems this is the coldest winter for nearly 40 years, after being exceptionally mild last winter, while we were in NZ). M updated the diary, neglected since Ian & Nina arrived to disrupt our routines. B sorted out some of the camping gear under the bed and began to study the route across 14 central states in the USA, as highlighted by the wonderful Campbell Clapp on the AAA maps.

A terrific thunderstorm crashed overhead, waking us with a bang at about 1 am. Barry had brought the awning in and moved Alf and the bikes last night, but Mick & Flo had left their 'safari-room' out - not a good idea. We heard from Cliff that it had collapsed at 1am, some poles irretrievably bent under the weight of water on the fabric roof. Mick denied such negligence, claming it had been hit by a 'thunder bolt'.

Barney & June came in for coffee, bringing a box of Asda mince pies to share (they only left UK last month). Barney (actually named Lee John Barnett) entertained us with another slice of his life and his naval expressions, such as 'speak up, I'm used to gunfire', 'eyes in the boat', 'fetch me down off the bulkhead', etc. His father was also a sailor, his mother died of TB at 22 when he was 4, and he ran away to sea at 15, after being passed round various relatives. He has a son in the Royal Marines - 'He wanted to join ever since I dropped him on his head when he was 3'!

Later we went to see how Mick & Flo were coping and found them in very low spirits. Mick was convinced that the thunderbolt had severely bent 3 of the awning poles at one corner, and that they were not repairable. They'd put all the stuff that was in the awning into an empty beach bungalow and were despondently dozing and watching TV. Over coffee, we offered to write to the manufacturers, help find a welder to fix the poles, whatever, but they were too tired (only one hour's sleep last night) for much response. Leaving them to recover, we braved the wild wind coming straight off the sea for a walk on the beach and found the shore much altered by the gale. The stream had carved a new bank through the dunes, the waves were surging up it, making it impossible to walk along to Ionion Beach. We've never seen it like this before.

After lunch we updated the diary, read November's MMM, lent by Barney, and made 3 lbs of mincemeat, well laced with Slivowitz, ready for our own mince pies. Rain continued all day though the wind abated. The evening TV news showed the usual scenes of early snow in the north and the mountains, and also an item about the canal in spate in Patras with what appeared to be a rescue attempt of a man and son who drowned, their car stuck in the water - the same canal we drove along to buy LPG earlier this week.

We replied to a text message from Stan which came in the night (a letter is on its way from Oz detailing the costs of the camper van), then motorbiked into Gastouni in blustery rainshowers. The lane from the campsite is in a very rough state, the loose top washed away exposing potholes and pebbles, making it very slow going. We got a 3.4 kg (7½ lb) frozen French turkey from Dia, along with more groceries and bread, posted another pile of end-of-year letters (to India, Oz, Canada, USA and UK) and decided it was too cold and damp to sit in Vartholomio's unheated Internet-Email place for an hour.

Instead we came straight back to hot soup and the usual hopeful trio of tabbies outside the door. The turkey wouldn't fit in the little ice box which Mick had offered us (in bungalow 21) but we eventually managed to get it into our own freezer.

Later we updated diary and accounts; B cut out the 114 visiting cards he'd printed, and filled a crack in the toilet seat, while M made the first batch of mince pies, together with a ham, cheese & egg pie for supper. More rain and hail late in the night.

Astonished on waking to see soft snow on the campsite and the beach, and an inside temperature of 46°F. But it never, ever, snows here!

A quick breakfast and out with the camera to catch it before it melted. Our awning was bowed under the weight of snow, quickly brushed off. Down on the beach a more amazing sight, with the most eerie light - a whirlwind was poised over Zakynthos, like a shaft of brightness through the black clouds, sucking the sea up in a haze of spray. It was moving southwards as we watched and we rushed back to roll the awning in and warn Cliff, the only other person at risk. He came out to watch with us, as large snowflakes began to swirl down again, two robins completing the scene! But it soon turned to rain again, the tornado moved away from us and we came back inside to the comforts of kettle and fan heater.

We made captions for the photos taken in France and Italy last summer for the album and selected and labelled those for the MMM site report on Willingham. Then Barney & June came round, bearing refreshments (Cheddar cheese, crackers and a jug of real coffee). We offered hot mince pies and all enjoyed an hour or two of good conversation till darkness fell. These are short days, it'll be good when they start to lengthen again.

A good film on TV for once, 'Airforce One' with Harrison Ford as a 2-fisted US President.

Dry and fine at last, bringing everyone outdoors despite the cold wind. Mick & Flo went to Pirgos with Cliff & Eileen while we motorbiked to Gastouni to check the mail (nothing) and stopped in the Internet shop in Vartholomio on the way back to cool down (!)

As ever, there was no-one in, no heating, no coffee, the door hopefully wide open and the morose owner huddled in a thick coat. We had a good session though, checking the web sites for the Austrians on 'Bike the World' (still nothing since October in Japan) and Richard & Penny on 'Tandem 2 Oz'. They had finally reached Turkey, found it far too cold to ride (as we predicted) and Penny suffered a knee injury, forcing them to get a lorry lift to Istanbul. They'd flown to Bombay and taken a train to Goa, where they are now 'resting'. So much for the arrogance of youth - 'if Anne Mustoe can do it (let alone you 2 old codgers), so can we'!!! Why do people assume all you need is a mountain bike and all the latest clothing!

There were 2 Emails for us. First, a nice thank-you from Ann-Maree & Duncan Bowman at Slope Point, NZ, who had just received our letter, photos and extract from 'Rough News'. It seems the man in Gastouni is sending our far-flung mail, despite his lack of comprehension and airmail stickers. The second was from Steve Swatman, describing the difficulty and expense of getting a ferry to Cyprus (as we predicted) and the atrocious weather there (as we predicted). Passenger ferries have stopped running, due to lack of custom, and they caught a freighter which was grim. Their motivation to keep in touch was an obvious interest in acquiring Stan's van after us, but we shan't respond to that. We sent an Email full of questions to the CTC correspondent in Cape Town, Conrad Barberton, and hope he proves as helpful as Campbell Clapp in San Francisco. Unable to stand the chill any longer (B's fingers were all frozen thumbs), we called at the excellent butcher's and returned to Aginara.

The sun had melted all yesterday's snow, in fact Barney was lunching outside in his shorts, showing off his tattoos! We got warm over toasted tea-cakes. Mick had found us a packet of marzipan for the Xmas cake in the AB in Pirgos, earning a kiss from Margaret (he was glad he'd failed to find golden syrup, or he might have had one from Barry!) Suddenly, there was great excitement from Barney, who had tuned his satellite in after hours of patient alignment. June made coffee and we all sat round it, on the outdoor table, solemnly listening to 'The Archers' with perfect reception on Radio 4 (he can get all the BBC TV and Radio channels, as well as Rupert Murdoch's 'Sky'). M had another coffee with Mick & Flo, on calling round to pay for the marzipan. If we stay here much longer we'll suffer a caffeine overdose.

More jobs followed: Alf was washed, the cake was marzipanned, diary and accounts updated, home-made burgers cooked.

It's still very cold with the light wind coming straight from Siberia, but dry and bright. Eschewing Gastouni market, we went a ride through Loutras, up to the Kastro (with a 250 drx-each coffee break in the Kafenion), and down through Machos village, crossing the disused railway line which ran to the sulphur baths at Loutras Kyllini in their heyday. The mountains just inland were deep in snow - the phenomenally cold Mediterranean winter has recently made the international news! In Vartholomio we found sausage rolls and cheese pies (after trying all 5 bakeries there, it was past lunchtime) before climbing back up through Vranas, pausing to watch the newborn lambs in a sheepfold. Back to a leaden sky and iron-grey sea, but no rain.

We worked on the 'Three Tenners for a Site' article about the Alençon Municipal - finished the report, selected and captioned the photos and got it ready to post to the MMM, along with the Willingham article.

The rain poured again, all night, all morning. We wrote to Anne Mustoe, our cycling author, with thanks, and put the first layer of royal icing on the Xmas cake.

After lunch, in a brief lull in the downpour, we walked to the site entrance to find the stream had burst over the little bridge by the well and turned into a raging torrent of muddy brown water, carrying stones, broken pieces of concrete, a white plastic chair, etc. Along with fellow-campers (Cliff, Heinz et al) we decided to go no further, greeting the site owner, Giorgo, stranded with his parked car on the far side - not drowning, but waving! He couldn't cross to get to his house for a few hours until the water went down enough to safely drive through. We went to look at the beach, its profile changed by the surging tide and the stream estuary: totally impassable - no walking to Ionion Beach today. The spray from the waves made a mist, the force of the sea frightening. We were glad to retreat inside, bake a dozen mince pies and eat a couple with tea before a second walk round, to find the stream abating.

The evening TV news repeated that a man and his son had drowned in the canal at Patras when their car got stuck under a bridge and they were washed out to sea. And 2 old people and a gipsy baby have died of hypothermia recently. What is happening here?

Unexpectedly, a fine morning for an expedition to Amaliada on the 2 motorbikes. The roads were thick with mud where it had washed across the saturated fields and a car had spun to stand vertically in a ditch on the way to Vranas (the second this week). In Gastouni the electricity was off (due to yesterday's storm) and the bank machine wouldn't work, but all was well in Amaliada. We got our Xmas fruit & veg at the market, a zip for M's grey cord trousers (to be kindly repaired by Flo), large envelopes for the end-of-year letters, and visited Peppas (in vain, he was still out).

We treated Mick & Flo to chicken-&-chips in the Pikantiko then rode on to shop at Dia and Lidl, biking through a brief heavy downpour, which had stopped by the time we emerged for the homeward run. They came round for coffee once safely back and talked till dusk, when Mick had to go to put all the site lights on. These are short days but will now get longer. Barry decorated the Xmas cake (a 2-tone scheme in white and chocolate brown). M rang mum and learnt that Mr Cooper, the dentist, has had a bad car accident and is unavailable till March. The January appointment is therefore cancelled, and the dentist closed till after Xmas.

Water and power continue to give problems. The campsite water supply keeps drying up and Mick and Giorgo are searching for a leak, while the electricity supply is very weak and variable. Our micro won't wave again, Barney is 'throwing all his teddies out of the pram' (his expression) while trying to get his new giant satellite dish, purchased in Amaliada, to do better than his old one, and the campsite washing machine is working at crawling speed. We finally got one load done and left a second lot in overnight.

Glad that we'd finished word processing (it needs a constant power supply), we worked through the pile of end-of-year letters for the UK, topping & tailing them, adding a photo or two to some and sealing them all, ready to post in Portsmouth.

We had coffee (laced with rum) and fruit cake with Barney & June, who had at last tidied their van enough to seat 4 inside. It's a newer version of Dick & Audrey's Hymer, very cosy and cluttered. What a character Barney is (he's now been sober for 10 years, since his liver was only given 3 years to live if he didn't abstain). He still has a bottle of genuine Navy Rum for visitors, with a proper copper tot measure fastened to it with a beautifully knotted lanyard. We wondered how he'd met June - his last 5 years in the Navy were as an instructor at Dartmouth Naval College, where she was teaching English, and he was 'between wives' at the time! Full of life and energy, interested in everything round him. Recently diagnosed with diabetes, he has been forbidden the sweet foods he loves (the more so since giving up drink and smoking), and June gave us a couple of jellies and cartons of ready-made custard, now redundant. We responded with some sugar-free jelly crystals and a bag of prunes (gifted to us in France and, strangely, a favourite of theirs).

In the afternoon we donned wellies and waterproofs and went a long walk, now able to cross the stream, along the beach past Ionion to Glifa harbour, where all the fishing boats had been hauled out of the water and parked in the lane behind the cottages to avoid sinking in the gales. At the end of the bitumen, past the taverna, the road had been washed away and undercut by the tide. The beach entrance gate to Ionion Beach Camping had also been undercut, the concrete gone and the gate on its side. The few vans on the site were all clustered at the back, away from the shore. No, we've never seen weather like this here before. We returned across the fields on the muddy footpaths, filling our pockets with lemons as we went - apple, mincemeat & lemon crumble with ice-cream was tonight's treat. Fasting starts in January!

We rang Turnover Hall Farm in St Michael's to check on Rosie's storage (yes, he'd got our letter & card, don't worry) and to ask if there was any local car hire (yes, the garage in the village, don't worry) - but we like worrying! At dusk a car came round the site bearing an old lady. We watched her approaching Barney's with a big carrier bag of oranges, and thought she was selling them! We soon knew better: it was Nikki (Giorgo's mother, wife of the old man who owns the site) distributing Christmas gifts to every resident van. There was a 1½-litre bottle of olive oil, rich and green, from their own olive grove, plenty of oranges from their trees and a gift-wrapped box containing cinnamon buns and almond pastries she had baked. We were all immensely touched, what a lot of work, for 4 English couples and 5 German.

We later gained most of Barney's goody-box, as he couldn't eat them and June doesn't share his sweet tooth.

A busy day getting ready for Santa! We Alfed into Gastouni, passing a band marching through the town playing 'Jingle Bells'. The baker's was warm and inviting, the smell of hot fresh bread being transferred from ovens to shelves irresistible. He had a tray of warm Christo-psomi - the huge (1 kg) round loaves decorated with almonds and walnuts and a pattern of twisted dough, all for 700 drx (£1.30). We had to have one! At the post, mum's letter had come, together with the Xmas CTC mag and the forms for Thornton Health Centre, but still nothing from Alan. We sent off the MMM articles and other recent letters. Children, in pairs and small groups, clutching a triangle each, worked the town singing Kalanda inside and outside the shops - a custom in the Greek islands and round the coast, similar to carol-singing (hoping for coins and sweets in their collecting boxes, of course). It actually began to feel like Christmas.

Searching for the shoe-mender with M's cycle shoes, we met Jimmy, who showed us the way and helped to convince the cobbler that we really did want new soles, even though they were not worn right down to the leather! (Greeks don't believe in preventive measures, you've only to look at their bald tyres to see that.) We bought a Euro-starter-bag at the bank (5,000 drx worth of shiny new Euro or Evro coins), photocopied 2 sections from Anne Mustoe's book, relevant to our proposed routes in Oz and US, and returned via the Internet Shop in Vartholomio. We surfed the net for health advice on malaria, vaccinations, rabies, etc, learning that there is an SAA Travel Clinic in Cape Town.

After lunch it was fine enough to hang all the washing out before having coffee with Mick & Flo. M phoned Paul Hewitt's bike shop in Leyland (he'd got our letter, booked us in for the morning of 14 Jan, and would make sure he had the saddle and tyres we want). Also rang Spa Cycles in Harrogate and ordered a set of Carradice Super C rear panniers to go to Mum's, as they have the best price in the CTC mag or on the Web. Text messages came from Stan & Celia (Happy Xmas from Adelaide) and from Alan, wondering whether to post on Barry's new bank cards. We replied, not to.

In the evening we put up our Xmas decorations (2) and cards (7), lit the candles and invited Barney & June for mince pies and Xmas cake. Barney is allowing himself sugar for 24 hours, but only took tea with them. They are beginning to love Greece and drive off exploring for the day whenever it's fine. They have until September, and all that unknown territory, through a Greek spring, Easter, perhaps on to Turkey, we envy them that first discovery of this unique corner of Europe.

Over breakfast of fresh orange juice and toasted teacakes, a text message came with greetings from Ian, Nina & the 2 boys. We donned cycling kit for a short Xmas ride, pausing to greet Barney & June who were outside setting up their table to cook a joint of pork. We put our Union Jack up, piped by Barney on his whistle (does he miss the Navy - no, he's never left it!) A fine morning, despite a cold north wind, and we rode the whole way up to the gates of Chlemoutsi Castle without a pause. The loudspeakers were playing the Little Drummer Boy carol in the streets of Kastro, the 2 kafenions were packed with old lads, keeping out of the kitchen, and a family putting their Christmas lights up on their tree and balcony blocked the road with stepladders and excited children. Lovely. Sitting on the castle wall, with a bar of chocolate and the wonderful seascape across to Zakynthos, we texted our Christmas message to friends with mobile phones. Most were returned during the day and, among others, it was good to learn that Martin & Clare have made it to Portugal.

Back at Aginara we greeted Mick & Flo (busy preparing their duck) and Cliff & Eileen (having a drink with Barney, who had hoisted the naval White Ensign for the occasion!) Jealous of the wonderful aroma of roasting pork from our neighbours, we got down to the serious business of preparing our dinner, after coffee and showers. Stuffing was made (apricot, walnut & lemon) and the bird just fitted into the oven, well covered with streaky rashers and wrapped in foil. Barney sent a bit of pork our way, to keep us going, and 2½ hours later we had our own feast, together with apple sauce, gravy, roast pots, carrots, peas and cauliflower. We didn't miss the chipolatas and sprouts (both unobtainable here). We needed a break (washing up) before the Xmas pud & custard had us grounded for the night. TV was dire - an American family comedy film. Gluttony was satisfied by mum's chocs and Lidl marzipans.

B cleaned the awning, ready for storage, and noticed the start of a tear in it, the result of so many stormy nights. He made a temporary repair with duct-tape, while M had other mending to do (trousers, oven gloves, B's cap) and the NHS form to complete for Thornton Health Centre. After lunch (turkey breast sandwiches, of course), Mick & Flo came round for coffee and conversation, though we couldn't tempt them to eat anything. M made a veg pie for supper, followed by reading (Barney's November MMM, Flo's little book on Olive Oil with its history and recipes, and the new CTC mag).

Down to Gastouni again to join the long queue at the post, rewarded with the Winter Fuel Claim form at last, sent on by Alan. We sent the NHS form to register at Thornton and a CTC comp to win 2 Brompton folding bikes (hope not!) Also shopped at the market and collected shoes from the cobbler's. B filled in the Winter Fuel form and discovered it can now be paid straight into a bank account (much easier than getting the timing right for a Giro and the Post Office). It needed his birth certificate enclosing, so couldn't be posted right away.

Back at the site we invited Barney & June for dinner, then prepared an Xmas Curry, with all the leftover turkey, stuffing, apple sauce, gravy, veg and remnants of a bottle of red wine thrown in, plus a chunk of creamed coconut, served with Delia's spiced turmeric rice. Barney likes it hot (of course) and brought his own fiery pickle and chutney to add, as we'd made it mild to suit the other 3 diners. He also brought cans of alcohol-free lager, white wine and fresh bread (all we lacked was chappatis). This all went down well, followed by a sugar-free pudding (or duff) of peaches in sugar-free jelly topped with strawberry yogurt. Barney was extremely touched by this thought and delivered a thank-you letter next morning, in accordance with naval etiquette.

We Alfed to Vartholomio to check the Emails and found a new one from Andrew & Laila Hague (and baby Maria, born 18 December). In the middle of composing a reply the power went off throughout the town so we left, but at least there was no charge. Continuing to Gastouni we found the post office packed to the doors, which were locked with 2 men banging on them! We shopped at Dia and returned to the post to find it locked and deserted, another angry customer rattling the handles. So, no gathering Winter Fuel today! Next stop was the new dentist, opposite the Health Centre, where M needed a check, clean and one small filling. The inspection was extremely thorough, with Stavros and his splendid new equipment, talking between mouthfuls about Romania where he'd practised in Timisoara.

After lunch we updated the diary and accounts and made another dozen mince pies. The evening TV had promised 'Saving Private Ryan' but we waited in vain. All we got was the first 'Pink Panther' film with Peter Sellers and David Niven, which seemed hopelessly dated.

A beautiful sunny morning saw us out on our favourite local ride, through Arcoudi and Loutras Kylline, up the hill to Kastro. Taking a coffee break in the Kafenion there, we amused ourselves with the local paper, working out the names of the English football teams written in Greek on the sports pages. We copied them carefully onto a scrap of paper to make a campsite quiz later, then swooped down to Kylline, which was busy with a couple of island ferries. We returned through the maze of country lanes to Machos, then back up the familiar hill past Vranas. The Real Greece.

After lunch B took advantage of the fine afternoon to finish cleaning and repairing the awning, with a strip of plastic bought in Vartholomio. M did the dhobi and rang Blue Star to check times for next week's Patras-Ancona ferries - daily except Monday at 2 pm, no need to book. We also sent Alan a text message for Bon Voyage and Happy New Year, as he flies to Spain tomorrow, and replied to Ian & Nina's text asking where to find LPG in Athens.

A working morning, B cleaning and polishing Alf and Rosie while M washed cushion covers and cleaned inside. We also made 6½ lbs of marmalade, as Mick distributed more oranges from the site owner. As we joined Barney & June for coffee and mince pies, they were amazed to see Rosie's twin arrive - Ian, Nina & a very excited Louis & Sam were back. They settled in behind us, as Barney was none too keen on vacating their previous pitch, with its sea view.

We went round after dinner, once the boys were asleep, and enjoyed some Xmas goodies - a box of Lidl chocs, figs, Italian biscuits, Nina's truffles (made from the recipe we gave her), all with sober coffee (they're abstaining till New Year, after Xmas excess with Nina's brother who joined them in Athens for the holiday). We talked until nearly 3 am, catching up on their travels.

It's now much warmer, in the mid-60's, but still windy. We rode to Vartholomio to shop at the market and finish the interruped Email to the Hagues in Wales. Another Email had come in, from Mike Jago at MMM, to say our 2 pieces had arrived safely and offering complimentary tickets for the Peterborough or York shows if we're ever able to go. The town was busy and the kids were out with their triangles singing carols again. A pair of swarthy musicians (Albanians or gipsies?) were also busking round the shops with a drum and a flute, very reminiscent of Turkey.

After lunch we got a New Year text from Stan Down Under, and returned it. We took a plate of warm mince pies in to share with Ian, Nina & Kids, then made a pan of popcorn for Barney's BBQ. He & June had invited us to see the New Year in with them and we had another splendid evening in their wonderful company. Barney cooked garlic fillet steaks, stir-fried veg and jacket spuds, together with Greek salad and bread, and we piled inside the Hymer to enjoy it, followed by Caribbean baked bananas, Greek yogurt and cheeses, lots of wine, apple juice or coffee. More excellent conversation, from hilarious to deadly earnest, we all feel as if we've known each other for years. We returned home (all of 10 yards away) just as we heard the midnight fireworks going off on neighbouring Ionion Beach. All was quiet on our site, a peaceful end to an amazing year.