MOTORHOME TRAVELLERS' DIARY FOR NOVEMBER 2003

CROATIA, ITALY, GREECE

Barry and Margaret Williamson

01 NOVEMBER 2003 HR AUTOCAMP SOLITUDO DUBROVNIK

A very stormy day, postponing further exploration of Dubrovnik's walled city. We didn't venture further than the shower block! Tried to make contact with a Swedish couple who have been parked nearby for several days but they seak only Swedish (unusual) and we didn't (usual). We just managed to agree that the weather was wet. They have lured our ginger tom away with tins of sardines, which obviously beat Greek cat-bix!

A good day for writing - with 'Kamping Karpouzi' and 'Among the Bulgars and Romanians' worked on apart from photos and captions. The diary for October was completed and printed. Romanian fruit from the freezer made a nice plum & apple crumble, to follow the curried remains of yesterday's chicken.

A good evening on TV: an old feature-length film of 'Chicago Hope', with young Drs Geiger and Schultz, from which the series must have sprung; followed by a film based on the true story of Ruth Gruber, a young Jewish-American journalist during WW2 who worked to get refugees from Nazi Germany resettled in her home town.

Another wet and windy morning, though still warm (about 70 degrees). Barry redid the letters to 8 travel agents, written but not yet posted, amending the outline itinerary for another round-the-world, to include Australia. He also wrote to Mitch & Ricky in Basildon, the couple we met here who have a campervan in Adelaide, with a question or two.

M kept the microwave busy, producing porage for breakfast, carrot & apple soup for lunch, a carrot cake for the journey and a tuna supper dish.

By mid-afternoon, the rain eased and we had a brisk 2½-mile walk (the GPS acts as a pedometer as well as pointing the way home when dusk falls). Down to the beach, past the complex of hotels at Babin Kuk, along the shore and back over the headland via stepped alleyways. The lights of Gruz Harbour, the moored cruise ships, the new bridge, the offshore islands, all shone bright to welcome us - this is a good base.

Alf took us back to the old town's Pile Gate from where we explored the traffic-free interior. We shopped at the little market, getting Mum a birthday gift from the stalls of local lavender crafts, and bought postcards (for Mum, Jeff and Angela) inside the 16thC Sponza Palace, which houses the state archives and a memorial to the men killed in 1991-2, as well as gift shops. Also looked briefly in the baroque Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin. We entered the Rector's Palace, now a museum with an entry fee, causing a rapid exit! A lovely medieval town but best seen from above, walking the walls as we did on arrival, over the heads of the coach-loads of Japs and cruiser-loads of elderly Americans who fill the streets in guided crocodiles.

On the way back to Solitudo, we did some photocopying and supermarketing. A voicemail message came from Taylors Storage.

After lunch, a final visit to the Hotel Kompas internet centre. Bill & Ruby down under thanked us for the Rugby piece, saying it was a privilege to be on our emailing list. Ian Kenyon sent a long letter and a new (work) email address as we'd had problems with the home one. Taylors Storage said they were full until April next year; we responded; they replied offering outdoor storage; we asked to be put on an indoor waiting list. Dave Brown of DB Outdoor Systems in Kendal had sent prices for a 32 MB card and a carrying case for the GPS, which we ordered, to post to Alan's. A query about the credit card address followed and was answered. Another attempt to email Jeff Mason failed.

On the web, we checked HSBC and looked for the Adventure Cycling Association (formerly Bikecentennial, with routes for cycling across the US). Finally accessed them via www. bicycling.about.com under 'adventurecycling'. Their Western Express Route, from San Francisco to Pueblo in Colorado is recommended for 'May through September'. At Pueblo, it picks up the Trans-America Trail, suitable 'Mid-May through October'.

Back to base, for our last night in Dubrovnik.

With the weekly ferry for Italy departing at 11 pm tonight, we took our time preparing to leave the campsite after lunch. We discovered that the 2 young Austrians, Patrick & Iris in an old Bedford campervan, were also bound for Bari and thence to Greece.

We spent the afternoon driving to the end of Croatia's scenic E65 coastal road, the Jadranska Magistrale, which became ever emptier and eerier once past Dubrovnik's airport. Barry took it even more gently than usual (our Croatian insurance, for both Rosie and ourselves, expired yesterday!) The border was open, but we did a U-turn and returned for a pot of tea with a sunset view, poised above Dubrovnik, on the way back to Gruz harbour.

We cooked and dined on the port car park, where the ferry terminal cafe had one computer, allowing a quick look at our email - another bulletin from Pauline, with a brief version of what Mum had said; an email from Dave Brown that the order for GPS accessories was on its way; a response from Pat Cue. Perched on a bar stool in a noisy smoky corner, we didn't stay to send replies.

Loading of the ferry began at 9 pm - a small, ancient, rusting tub with a single car-deck. Our booking for a 2-person cabin had not been transferred when we postponed last Tuesday's ticket, but this turned to our advantage as all the 2-berths were taken and they had to give us a more spacious 4-berth to ourselves! Sited below the car deck, it had 4 bunks, a washbasin, no life jackets ... After exploring the boat and watching the lights of Dubrovnik recede (Barry on board, armed with GPS), we slept surprisingly well. At least we didn't have to join the Austrians in sleeping bags on the deck.

54 miles.

We had wondered how the Jadrolinja slow-boat could take from 11 pm to 8 am to reach Bari: it stopped and moored for 1½ hours off-shore while a buffet breakfast was served! As this was included in the cabin price, we enjoyed the cereals, salami, cheese, jams and tea (though not the stale hard bread). Once disembarked, with some difficulty (cab mirrors pulled in to avoid the sides of the exit), we stopped on the huge lorry parking area for coffee before making our way through Bari onto the SS16. We drove south to Brindisi (with an unplanned diversion to Fasani, despite the GPS). The sun shone, all was calm and we enjoyed a break, walking across fields to look at the remains of some pre-Roman trulli houses east of Monopoli.

We checked the ferry ticket agencies around the Costa Morena quay, learning that we could take Agoudimos Lines to Igoumenitsa or Medlink to Patras tonight, or Blue Star to Ig at 10.30 am tomorrow. Medlink was more expensive, Agoudimos we had never heard of, and so we opted for Blue Star's daytime crossing. Assured there was no need to book and an open deck, we spent the night on the port car park.

108 miles. Free parking.

Waking early, ready to book a Blue Star ticket, we rapidly changed our plans. Gale-force winds howled, blowing the palm trees horizontal! After breakfast, M tried to phone the 2 campsites we knew in the vicinity. Torre Rinalda was unobtainable and there was no phonebook for Lecce area in the bar; Pineta al Mare did have a new number in their directory, but there was no answer! Not wanting to sit on the desolate dock in a raging wind, we drove the few miles back up the coast to check out Pineta al Mare. The walled site was impenetrable behind its high security gates but we recognised the owners' bungalow nearby, braved the guard-dog, rang the bell, roused the old lady and were eventually admitted to an empty campsite. We were welcome to a sloping pitch, cold showers, unkempt toilets and a hook-up that wouldn't run the kettle or microwave, all for the bargain price of 15 euros. Welcome to Italy - roll on Greece!

Later, the wind dropped enough to ride out on Alf to check the motorhome accessory place nearby, in the hope of finding a Fiamma accumulator for the water pump, but no luck.

18 miles. £10.71 inc 3-amp elec.

07 NOVEMBER 2003I COSTA MORENA QUAY BRINDISI

With calmer weather, we broke out of Pineta and drove back down the coast past Brindisi, in search of a supermarket. Heading for Lecce, we were diverted by a sign promising an Auchan hypermarket near Mesagne and followed the clues cross-country, to find it on the Via Appia or S7 highway, less than 10 miles from Brindisi.

We returned to Brindisi's ferry port for the evening, again checking out the Blue Star ferry for 10.30 am tomorrow. We were assured there was plenty of room on the open deck, no need for advance booking.

54 miles. Free parking.

At 7 am, Margaret joined the queue of lorry drivers at the Blue Star office, which opened at 7.15. She was eventualy told the ferry was full and we had no chance of crossing today! This after several phone calls and 2 personal visits to staff who all insisted they didn't take bookings and there was always plenty of room! After breakfast, still angry, we walked round the port and saw a large ferry just arriving from Greece, the Erotokritos run by another new line, Mediterranean Way (or MyWay). We grabbed a deckhand, learnt it would return to Ig and Patras tonight, and found the booking office. Open deck, no problem, sailing at 7 pm and cheaper than Medlink - we booked! It seems they are operating ex-Minoan Line boats, since Minoan upgraded their fleet.

With more time in hand, we drove down the coast again to see what had become of our old haunt Camping Torre Rinalda. It proved to be closed until spring, not surprising, as we were usually the only inhabitants apart from the canine families.

We walked the empty beach and the sand-drifted lanes between shuttered holiday apartments, and then parked on the deserted coastline for lunch. We talked with a pair of German motorhomers who stopped to get water, newly arrived from Greece, who told of recent stormy weather and a strike at the Rion-Antirion ferry across the Gulf of Corinth. So what's new?! As soon as they left, a small Austrian campervan pulled up and we recognised Patrick & Iris, who turned out to be booked on tonight's Erotokritos as well! They'd been free-camping around the Spur of Italy, waiting for better weather to cross.

We discovered Patrick's passion - strapping on a parachute and jumping off cliffs -, which he practised onto the beach only 40 ft below! Actually, he liked to have more height and more wind to lift and soar, but he was alone in wishing it would rise again.

We returned to Brindisi to take our place among the lorries waiting to board. We thought we had the camping deck almost to ourselves until trucks and trailers loaded 3 levels deep with livestock (sheep and cattle) were parked (literally) nose to tail all round us! The noise died down as they settled into the voyage and we closed the windows and lit a joss stick to mask the smell! We watched the lights of Brindisi recede with pleasure and enjoyed exploring the boat, which made the Jadrolinja ferry look like a bath-toy! On deck, Barry's GPS showed all the buoys and lighthouses (for some reason, it has the marine version of W Europe installed). The crossing was smooth and we slept well in the farmyard.

39 miles. Camping on board inc elec.

First stop Igoumenitsa at about 6.30 am, where the animals were taken off in their motorhomes leaving us alone on the open deck. The beautiful passage between the Ionion Islands was made more interesting by plotting them on the GPS. We docked in Patras around noon and parked on the quayside to make lunch. Hearing a noise on the roof, we looked outside just in time to see a man descending our ladder and getting into a waiting taxi! Barry challenged him and he said he was 'getting his passport off the roof' (indeed, he was clutching it). Strange - another Albanian trying to get to Italy, we guess.

Still undecided on our next destination (east or south?), we headed for the nearest campsite, the empty and expensive place at Rion. The ferries were running again across the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth, but their days are numbered as work continues on the multiple-suspension bridge to replace them.

12 miles. £14.28 inc elec.

Alf took us into Patras, weaving his way through the chaos of the city, no quieter for having its new bypass partially open. We did some photocopying (August diary), bought Greek phone cards, got new chains for the cycles at the only bike shop and rode on to shop at the AB supermarket and Praktiker. Starved of western goodies for months, we had plenty to buy (like drinkable instant coffee and edible meat). In Praktiker, we got a new fire extinguisher and a digital multi-meter to replace items, which had served their time. Spotting a mini-clothes-boiler, which would soon pay for itself in saved washing machine fees, we noted its dimensions.

Back to the city for a Goody's lunch, then found the street with 3 internet cafes, all charging the same at e3.00 per hr (less than they charged for coffee!) We had a session in the quietest and caught up with our email.

Other emails were from Bill & Ruby down under; and Taylors Storage, who said we could reserve an indoor place from 1 January, provided we paid in advance. We replied that we'd post a letter and cheque. We looked at UK bicycle shops with mail order on the net and sent an email to Paul Hewitt. Also checked HSBC.

Rode back out to Rion as dusk fell, to find the empty site was full of Dutch motorhomes - a convoy of 20, returning to Patras after touring Greece. They all pretended we weren't there but we couldn't reciprocate!

11 NOVEMBER 2003 GR CAMPING RIO PATRAS

Wrote postcards of Dubrovnik to Jeff & Audrey and to Angela and a letter to Taylors booking a storage place for next year (perhaps from the end of March) with a cheque for £300, though unsure whether this was a payment from January. Then Alfed back into Patras to post these and shop at Dia. We returned to Praktiker to order a mini-boiler for later collection, having checked that it would fit in the shower cubicle. We lunched at a new Goody's we spotted on the waterfront near the AB, which turned out to be part of a bowling alley complex, and completely empty.

Another afternoon in the internet cafe, where we had an email in from Barney & June, about to return from Denmark. We replied, and also wrote to: Ian Shires, Ian Kenyon, Charley, Keith, Andrew Hague and Karsten & Agata, updating all on our movements.

Also searched the net for Adventure Cycling (trans-USA) routes and motorhome purchase in NZ.

Sent Karsten a text, to check his email at the library, and returned for a night among the Dutch.

Waking to another stormy change in the weather, we postponed moving on and got the word processor out. Also did some baking and rang Mum with the Corinth address. Karsten texted back, welcoming us to their home (but not yet).

B wrote briefly to Mitch & Rick (met in Dubrovnik) asking more about their Australian motorhome - like was it for sale or hire?

The unfriendly Dutch convoy left in the afternoon and we were pleased to learn they were getting the ferry to Venice tonight - 2 nights at sea in this storm!

Used Rosie to drive to Praktiker to pick up the mini-washer, stopping to shop at Lidl and post yesterday's letters on the way. We bought a sturdy mat and a cheap cushion with which to pad the shower cubicle while storing the washer in there.

We returned to Rion on the completed section of the Patras bypass, which runs inland complete with tunnels - very impressive. Back at the campsite we found new neighbours - an American couple in their 60's, Bob & Judi Burns (Robert Burns!), driving a Hymer they'd bought in England. They immediately asked us in for coffee and cookies and we talked until long after dark.

They are yachters, living mainly on a 37-ft cruiser for the last 12 years, since early retirement from the world of computing (he had worked for IBM on guided missile systems!) They told riveting tales of sailing down the E coast of the US, through the Caribbean to Venezuela, through the Panama Canal, down the W coast of S America taking in the Galapagos and across the Pacific (3,000 miles of open sea for 30 days) to Easter Island, then island hopping via Fiji, etc, to New Zealand. Here, they settled for 3½ years (on the yacht near Auckland), took out NZ citizenship, got married, did a bit of freelance work. Then they sailed on, stopping for a year in Singapore, with a shore excursion to China. Another year was spent in Thailand, where they had a complete refit of their yacht 'Longpassages' and set up their own amazing website. In January this year, they'd set sail again across the Indian Ocean, pausing in Sri Lanka, with a month ashore trekking in Nepal, then on through the Red Sea and Suez Canal, with a visit to Egypt.

They reached Antalya in Turkey in the summer, moored in a safe marina and flew to the UK, where they bought the Hymer and are now driving back to rejoin their yacht and prepare it to explore the Mediterranean before completing their 12-year (so far!) round the world voyage across the Atlantic, to sell the yacht back in the US for the best price. Then they think they'll buy an RV there and become land-yachters like us - 12 years at sea has diminished their initial enthusiasm for sailing. What a wealth of information about this high-tech way of life (satellite telephone, VHF and short-wave radio, GPS, 2 laptop computers, inverters, solar panels, water purifier to make seawater drinkable, etc).

We returned to our van feeling quite humbled - we thought we were well-travelled explorers! At least they weren't also cyclists! So much to learn and we hadn't even discussed computing yet! We'd intended moving on tomorrow but if Bob & Judi stay, we'll sit at their feet for another session and offer any motorhoming advice we can.

The mini-washer worked its way through 2 loads of dhobi, heating and agitating well, though of course it has to be emptied and refilled for rinses and doesn't spin or wring. Bob & Judi came in for coffee and we all agreed to stay at Rio one more night and spend the evening together. Cleaned the motorhome, inside and out. We rang the campsite at Akrata Beach and 2 at Corinth, but all were closed.

After lunch, we Alfed back into Patras to the internet cafe. We had emails from Andrew Hague, Peter Gorrie (a nice surprise) and Ian Shires. Ian directed us to look at www.southing.com, where we saw photos of him with Norwegian Land-Rovering friends, passing through Budapest on their way overland to South Africa! We also enjoyed looking on the net for more info on the Trans-Siberian Express, Adventure Cycling across the US, the Whitlock family's update, the Zep family from Denmark met in Dubrovnik, and the superlative website of our new cruising friends on 'Longpassages'. Found the Periptero selling the 'Athens News' at last, in the square near the port.

We had another absorbing evening with Bob & Judi, their wine and our tea, learning more about laptop computers, designing your own website, digital images, etc. Bob strongly recommended buying a custom-built system on-line from Dell Computers and Barry made plenty of notes.

After Barry took more notes over their breakfast, we waved farewell to the 'cruisers', then we prepared to set off towards Corinth - until our showerhead came apart in B's hand! With Praktiker the only likely place for a new one, we had to return there and were lucky to find one to fit for about £5. B fixed it while we had coffee - our cheapest motorhome repair to date! We finally decided to accept the fates and continue SW towards Aginara Beach, rather than E to Corinth: the post could be redirected, another waste of our time and money. We shopped at Eurospar, then continued along the New and Old Nat Roads to our favourite 'wild camp' at Goose Beach, on the beach, on the shores of the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth.

Time to relax, watch the fishermen, read the paper and tune in the TV.

22 miles. Free parking.

How nice to wake by the sea again, complete with geese (Christmas is coming ...).

Packed up Mum's birthday present and card (from Dubrovnik) and drove along the coast, past Gastouni, to the Amaliada X-roads. Turning right for Kourouta Beach we were amazed to find a new length of broad highway with overhead lights, leading to the municipal and private campsites (both closed, of course) and the fish tavernas, still busy with Sunday lunchers.

We ate our own in the roomy car park, and then had a good walk along the beach for a mile in either direction, very pleasant now the strong wind of the last few days has dropped. Slept well in the car park, once the bars had closed.

38 miles. Free parking.

We drove the 5 miles into Amaliada and left Alf for a service, chain replacement and broken spoke and speedometer repair. Peppas himself told us of his 7-yr old lad living in Germany with his ex-wife and proudly showed us photos of him riding the junior-size trials bike, which is in his shop window. Both mother and son had come across to stay in August when Peppas' new partner gave birth to their daughter - how nice. Then a walk round our favourite market town in the sunshine, posting Mum's packet, buying phone cards, getting cash. We rang both Ionion and Aginara Campings for winter prices - Ionion quoted 12 euros reducing to 11 for one month plus; Aginara 10 reducing to 8, with Mick & Flo in residence. Aginara wins!

Of course, we had chicken and chips in the Pikantika, where the owner remembered us and offered ouzos on the house. We had to decline, to remain sober for emailing. At the Internet Cafe there was just one message waiting, from Ian Shires about Magellan GPS, to which we replied.

On the way back to Kourouta we stopped to shop at both Dia and Lidl, stocking up for a stay at Aginara, from where all the shopping has to be carried over the hills on 2 wheels. We had another quiet free night, sharing the car park with a few courting couples who came and went in cars.

We drove from the beach to Amaliada, leaving Rosie on Dia's empty car park, and walked the half mile into town. Spent most of the morning at the Internet Cafe, getting into a good on-line conversation with Ian Shires about the GPS and other matters: 2 exchanges of emails with him as he sat at his Macintosh. There was also a funny piece from Tim Guy, our recumbent tricyclist Down Under, about how to tell where Australian drivers come from. We thanked him and copied it to a range of friends.

Then a web search for laptop computers, which came up with nothing to beat the site of Dell.co. uk, as recommended by Bob Burns at Rio. Their best deal, an Inspiron 1100 at a good price, is on special offer, including free 3-year warranty, extra memory, a printer offer and free delivery in the UK, ending tomorrow. We also looked at their Greek site, to see if the same was available with delivery in Greece, but only a very limited and much more expensive range was listed. M rang Dell UK and was informed they could not deliver to Greece, even for extra payment.

We walked round Amaliada but found no computer shops, for comparison.

Alf was ready and waiting for us, looking very smart after a wash and wax. As well as replacing 3 spokes in the rear wheel, Peppas had fitted new brake pads, chain and sprockets, battery and speedo cable and changed the oil. We rode him back to Dia, loaded him onto Rosie and had lunch before heading back up the New Nat Rd to Gastouni.

Here, a sign said that the bridge over the Pineios River before Vartholomio was closed for roadwork's (as far as our Greek could make out). Dismayed, we drove on, to find that it was open though shored up with wooden scaffolding just above Rosie's head! So we came to Aginara, where Mick & Flo are in residence, along with a handful of Germans. We had a chat, saw Yorgo, the owner, and manoeuvred into our usual place just before dark. Dennis is away in Albania, where he recently married a local girl.

21 miles. £5.71 inc elec.

We rode a revitalised Alf to Gastouni, where we arranged for the mail sent to Corinth to be forwarded. This involved a lengthy phone call, putting M on and off the line, completion of a form in triplicate and payment of 2 euros, all with the Greek-only-speaking postmaster and assistance from the queue! Dionysus Maniatis, photographer and friend, gave us a warm welcome and thanks for the postcard from Turkey, and we left him a film to process from the Canon camera. He now has a new machine to do digital work, so we'll return with the smart cards.

We continued to Amaliada, having made the decision to order the Dell laptop before the offer closed. At the Internet Cafe, we found that Dell's site had indeed been updated, with 'Closes Midnight Today' against our choice of the Inspiron 1100. We tried to order on-line, for laptop plus printer, disk drive, carry-case, etc, and were rewarded with a price and basket number. Delivery seemed problematic, though, as the conditions said they would only deliver to the customer at their home, with payment by credit card from the same name & address. M phoned Dell and (unfortunately) was assisted (?) by a Mr Gupta, with a barely comprehensible accent (their call centre turned out to be in Bombay!) She eventually persuaded him to accept an order from Barry at 133 Arundel Drive, to be delivered to Mum. Whilst on the phone, Mr Gupta suggested some additions to the order (and his commission). After consultation with Barry and 2 more phone calls, we added a better printer/scanner/copier, a mouse and a power source protector.

Emails from Andrew Hague and Cathy Langbridge (a long-lost cycling friend from Down Under), both appreciating the piece about Australian drivers. Barry sent a message to Magellan Support for advice on the GPS - why the Europe Maritime Map?.

We celebrated ordering the laptop with another visit to the Pikantika for souvlakis, salad and chips before riding back to Aginara, via Lehena to check Dionysus' suggestion of an internet cafe there (wrong). The evening's TV entertainment was the first of the 'Lord of the Rings' trilogy. We enjoyed spotting the locations (all 3 parts filmed in NZ) and thought Hobbiton and the Shire were beautifully portrayed, though Barry did nod off during the lengthy battles with the Orcs.

We finished setting up on our pitch, with outdoor table and chairs, satellite dish, washing lines, bicycles, and the full Kamping Karpouzi kit! We have this half of the site to ourselves, a sea view, and our own tap, brilliant. Used our mini-washing machine for 3 loads, working outside with an extension lead through the window. Beats paying e3 a load for the ancient automatic in the old toilet block!

After lunch we sat with Mick & Flo and learnt about their summer, staying on Ann & Tony's Shropshire farm again and working, not at the laundry but at the Eden Vale dairy factory, which they much preferred, on the production line for trifles, mousses, etc, for M&S, Iceland and other stores. Mick was in very low spirits, having suffered a back injury and caught a virus, and they miss Cliff & Eileen and their car, not out this winter because Cliff is waiting for a gallstones op.

M rang Mum to wish her happy birthday, and warn her to expect a laptop computer delivery next week. Our Dell salesperson, Mr Gupta, rang and left a barely comprehensible message about problems with addresses, however.

Alf took us down to Vartholomio, where we collected 2 packets of well-travelled mail via Corinth (but not mum's letter). Dropped a film in to Dionysus Maniatis for printing and got a very warm welcome.

After a brief look in the mail, M rang HSBC about the new Visa Gold cards, cleared up their query about sharing credit limits with the MasterCard and was told they would be issued at once.

On to Amaliada and into the internet cafe at 11.30 am. Ian Kenyon had sent a new home address, as from next week, and advice on computer purchase. Andrew Hague also wrote about computers and the Mr Gupta's of this world (very prophetic). We replied gratefully to them both. We also emailed Taylors Storage with a reminder.

Following Mr Gupta's messages about problems with the MasterCard address, M rang him for clarification (?), and then spoke to the Card Specialist at HSBC who advised temporarily changing our registered address with them to 15b Rossendale Ave S, then changing it back once payment to Dell was cleared. We did this on the internet. Also looked on the net for ways of getting the computer from Mum's to Greece and found DHL Courier Service (recommended by Andrew) had an EU Express delivery at about £55 (tel 08701 100300). Parcelforce Datapost from the post office would probably be cheaper - £42 for 3 kg, £40.75 for 2.5 kg - but wouldn't collect it.

Finally, we checked the websites we'd got for Romania, to include them in the MMM article. There was good info on Camping Aurel Vlaicu at www.axyzgroup.com, but the roemenie.com site had nothing on camping.

Resisting the temptations of chicken and chips, we bought the Athens News and some phone cards, did some photocopying (Kamping Karpouzi and Among the Bulgars and Romanians) and returned home, with a quick stop at Lidl.

After an overdue lunch, we worked through the pile of mail. There were personal letters from Barry Crawshaw, Barney & June (in Denmark/Germany) and, disappointingly but usually, nothing from Alan and no CTC mag. The rest was the usual stuff from HSBC, Pensions, Vodafone, etc, plus forms for passport and RFL renewal, which mum had collected for us and passed Alan to post. The second parcel contained the carry-case and memory card for the GPS, ordered from Kendal, both of which are fine.

Barry gave both cycles a clean and spray with silicone polish, tried the new chains bought in Patras (didn't fit), replaced his handlebars with the newer spare pair out of the top-box and fitted a new rear brake cable. M did some cleaning, sorted out all our first aid kits and medicines, discarded those way out of date and made up 3 good kits: one for cycling, one for Alf's box and a larger one for the bathroom cupboard.

Then a walk along the beach past Ionion Camping and Glyfa harbour, 2 miles or so with the world to ourselves.

A beautiful morning, clear blue sky, warm and dry, around 70 degrees. No more excuses about busy Croatian roads: time to regain some cycling fitness!

We rode out through Arkoudi and Loutra Killinis, climbed the hill to Kastro village (580 ft from sea level - interesting to measure altitude on the GPS now), then another 90 ft climb up the lane to Chlemoutsi Castle itself. Restoration of the 15thC Frankish fortress continues; it now has a nice crenellated wall all round. Entrance is still free, with 2 ladies in the ticket office to make sure nobody pays! We watched the ferry leaving Killinis harbour below, bound for Zakynthos or Kefalonia across the clear sea. Olives are being picked and pressed all around, oranges and lemons starting to ripen, great to be back.

We enjoyed the descent to Killinis, then checked ferry times at the harbour for an island-hopping trip. Sadly, the ferry between Zakynthos and Kefalonia only runs in summer, so a triangular route isn't possible. (This was only confirmed by phoning the Zakynthos Port Police. The 4 Port Policepersons in their office above the Killinis Harbour Coffee Bar, busy eating their lunch and watching Antenna TV couldn't possibly say!) Whilst in there, we asked the price of coffee - 2.50 euros each - said 'no thank you' and drank our lemonade. The Athens News did warn us to beware price hikes before the Olympics and they have obviously started. £1.75 a cup, in Greece?!

Leaving Killinis, we noticed a new sign in the window of an old bar - Internet C@fe - and enquired within. Indeed, there were 3 well-worn machines (2 in use with local youth playing games), at 3 euros an hour for internet, but no printer. This being slightly cheaper and nearer and over a nicer hill than Amaliada, we said we'd be back tomorrow. We returned round the warren of backcountry lanes, somehow rejoining the main road between Vartholomio and Vranas for the climb back to Lygia and home.

After a well-earned lunch, we finished sorting, checking, filing or binning items of mail. Turners outraged us, with items like £91 for a new kitchen tap and drawer-knobs, of which we knew nothing. This year's deficit on 49 Heaton Road keeps growing and we'll have to spend more money phoning them. They had managed to send the address for our ground rent landlords at last, and we put a letter to Estates & Management Ltd in an envelope to Mum, along with a note, assuming they might reply quicker if they don't suspect we're out of the country.

B also wrote to Pat Cue, enclosing a copy of the article on Bulgars & Romanians; to Barry Crawshaw, thanking him for his letter and promising a couple of articles soon; and to Mike Jago at MMM, offering to update the A-Z of Full-timing if wanted, and to become travel correspondents on some of Eastern Europe and on continental full-timing.

We repeated yesterday's route, riding up to Kastro (omitting the castle visit), then down to Killinis. The Post Office (with a sign saying Open 7.30 am - 2 pm) was closed. The Internet Bar was quiet, with the 3 machines, 2 snooker tables, giant TV and owner's attention all to ourselves, so we bought coffee and had a good session.

Ian Kenyon sent us a new home address in Bournemouth, busy man, which we acknowledged.

Bob Burns, of the Longpassages yacht, wrote from Thessaloniki, thanking us for the info on Delphi and Meteora, both of which they had visited, and warned us we would hear from friends of theirs for advice on Morocco. We answered that, with details of the Dell laptop ordered on their advice.

There was also an answer from Comfort, wanting Alf's reg no, and an email from Andrew Hague.

We registered with the Dell Orderwatch Service and were advised to ring our rep, Mr Gupta, about the order delay. M tried that, got the ansaphone and left a message. The post office was now open, so in to post letters (to Mum, Pat Cue, MMM, Barry Crawshaw). A Greek moment - M asked 'what times are you open'. Mrs Post pointed to the sign and said '7.30 till 2.00'. 'Well, you were closed an hour ago'. 'Of course, it was my break, 10 till 12.00' !!

Back on the net, we found the DVLA website and checked the RFL cost (not given on the form) - £165 for 12 months, £90.75 for six. Relieved to find the higher costs for large vehicles only apply to those registered after 2000.

We returned round the back roads, via Machos and Vranas, lovely empty lanes, the olive harvest in full swing.

After a late lunch, M tried Mr Gupta again (another message on his ansaphone), then rang Customer Care and got a young lady who promised to look into the problem. Also rang Turners to protest about the many repair bills, paid without consultation or permission, over the last 3 months. The Manager promised to investigate and asked us to ring back tomorrow. Barry set up Mick's old satellite dish, to get BBC World, but with the trees still in full leaf, we only get a snowy black & white picture, though the sound is clear.

We rode through Glyfa, past the brand new football pitch (with looks ready for a Lidl + car park in the absence of grass) and on through Lygia, past the busy olive oil mill to the main road. As we turned right at the main road, stentorian tones boomed from the corner cafe - 'Barry, Margaret, Stop, Margaret, Barry ...' Austrians Hans & Inger were taking coffee with two German inmates of Ionion Beach. We were treated to indulgent cappuccinos topped with cream and M had to explain where we had been for the last 2 years. Hans had lost a lot of weight (1½ stones) on doctor's orders after an operation and looked much fitter and happier, though he still dwarfed Barry - a big man with a big heart. An update on Fligos family news: Theo and wife have a little girl, Anna, and George is now engaged to a local girl, after Mama disapproved of his first choice, from Germany.

We continued past Vartholomio (pausing to pick up Mum's letter from the post) and on to Gastouni and got bread. Also collected some prints from Dionysus, who gave us a 24-picture album to send to the Fizedeans in Romania with the photos of that visit. We left him the digital card to work on. Cycled home round the back lanes through Kavasilos and Machos, finding an alternative to the Vartholomio Bridge over the Pineios in case the sporadic road works recommence.

Went a short walk on the beach and lit a small bonfire to dispose of a pile of papers, etc.

A familiar morning's ride, climbing the 580 ft to Kastro village and swooping back to sea-level in Killinis for a couple of hours and coffee in the Internet Bar. We had an email from Bill & Ruby (our no 1 fans down under), with thanks for the 'How to Tell Where a Driver Comes From', telling us what interesting people we are (we need that now & again!) Magellan Consumer Support sent helpful advice on sorting out the marine map problem on the GPS, which we copied to Ian Shires, sitting at his machine, who replied warmly and wittily, as did we. He & Judit are about to pay a flying visit to England, with the new no-frills (but plenty of thrills?) flight from Budapest.

Taylors storage acknowledged receipt of the cheque and we replied to Helen the bookkeeper. Andrew Hague sent two photos of his loved ones - Laila holding Maria and Maria on her first fairy-cycle. We replied how lovely they are. Dell Computers showed no progress on our order.

Sent Comfort Alf's details for an insurance quote. Finally, checked the bank statements and noted we now have Visa Gold cards in the post.

A return ride the same way, the weather cooler and cloudier. Back for a late lunch. The afternoon was spent doing three loads of dhobi in our mini-boiler, baking and phoning Dell Computers. M spoke to a 'Ronald' who promised to ring back, but did not. Ended up pegging out the washing in the dark, as the nights draw in.

After a thunderstorm in the night, rain set in. M rang Dell Computers again - a non-Indian woman assured us she would contact the Accounts Manager forthwith and ring us back today.

M got down to updating the November diary, which reads like a list of emails and phone calls, while rain splashed off the trees and the dhobi flapped on the line. It brought the snails and birds out - we saw a pair of great tits and a wren, as well as the usual robins and sparrows.

Drier after lunch, we rode out between showers for a 45-minute circular ride, via Arkoudi, Lygia and Glyfa, and saw the first fresh snow on the distant peaks.

Dell did not ring back, despite their promise. Turners rang for approval for yet another repair - to the intruder alarm system. We agreed to a service call-out, and demanded they switch it off and send an estimate if it needs repair. Turners finally have an email facility and tell us one awaits our attention tomorrow.

The Star film was Mel Gibson in 'What Women Want' - answer; they want to see Mel using what talent he has in something less trite and trivial!

Still showery, with a nice rainbow over Gastouni as we Alfed in. Called on Dionysus, who is still working on our digital photo collection (done a few prints and now transferring all the images from cards to CD). No mail at the PO.

In Amaliada, we raided the bank, bought the weekly paper and yet more phone cards, then spent an hour in the Internet Cafe, where the morose proprietor was again having trouble with his phone connections. We had emails in from Ian Shires, re Yorkshire and Rigwelter Beer brewed in Masham, and Andrew Hague re laptops. Also a message from Denise Moorhouse at Turners confirming yesterday's phone message, to which we replied confirming ours.

Checking our order status on-line with Dell, we were amazed to read it had reached stage 4, being packed for delivery (estimated 1 December) by carriers Walsh Western. We checked the HSBC account, but no payment had gone through. Strange! M immediately rang Dell, who confirmed it was ready to go and therefore payment must have been made. Also got an address for Customer Relations (complaints procedure) in Wicklow. Finally, looked at Parcelforce International on the net for services and prices. Nearest depot to Mum's is at Preston but we need more info. M rang their enquiry centre but hung up on hearing the length of the queue.

Celebrated this provisional good news with chicken souvlaki and chips in the Pikantiko, then home via shopping in Dia and Lidl. Both stores now have a few Christmas goodies and decorations in, but are very quiet. We're trying to ration our chocolate marzipan intake!

Back just before the wind and rain took hold again. Time to sort photos and read the Athens News. A nice cartoon in that, of the runner with the Olympic Torch poised over the Gulf of Corinth on the edge of the unfinished Rio-Antirio Bridge (promised for summer 2004 and still nowhere near complete).

Cooler and cloudier, but no rain. We rode the familiar route - even the two chained guard dogs by the chicken coop along the lane have got used to our passage now - and settled into the Internet bar in Killinis with coffees, alongside two lads playing snooker on the table.

An email from Dell told the order had now reached the final stage 5: 4 boxes had left Limerick, to be delivered any time from next Tuesday, 2 December. Still no payment showing on the credit card, so M rang Dell to ensure they weren't expecting cash-on-delivery. After many attempts, we got past Mr Gupta's ansaphone and spoke to a Michelle, who confirmed the order status and said they never ask for payment on delivery. Stranger still!

Checked couriers and Parcelforce International again on the net and got phone number for Freightworld in Sheffield who offer a Europarcel service.

An email from Mike Jago at MMM welcomed us back on board as travel consultants for Eastern Europe and Continental Full-timing and accepted our proposal to update the 4-part A to Z. Good news - some work for the long dark evenings on the new laptop, helping to pay for it! We replied.

We cycled back via Kastro again. After a late lunch we talked to Mick & Flo (hard work - they are both very low and withdrawn, worrying about their future). We gave them last week's paper and a draft of the MMM article on Bulgaria/Romania to read, and then accompanied them on a walk along the lane and back before dusk. Flo witnessed M's signature on a document for the TPA.

M rang Mum, who had left a message for us this morning, and learnt that Walsh Western (Dell's carriers) had arranged delivery with her for next Tuesday - we are beginning to believe it! We also have two CTC mags on their way and a Visa Gold card for Barry. Promised to ring her on D-Day.

A very stormy morning, during which the power went off twice while updating this diary, causing more work! Barry sorted and labelled plenty of photos, making up a little album to send the Fizedeans and selecting those for the two MMM articles.

After lunch, we had an hour's ride between the end of the storm and dusk, along flooded lanes to Arkoudi, out to the shore at Loutras Killini, back up the hill to Lygia and home, rousing many a sheepdog.