MOTORHOME TRAVELLERS' DIARY FOR JULY 1997

GREECE

Into Sparta shopping at the familiar places. After lunch put Alf's brakes and Barry's skill and Margaret's nerves to the test of finding the Taigetos Mountain Refuge. We were looking for a route to climb the Profitis Ilias (Prophet Elijah) peak, the highest in the Taigetos range (and in the Peloponnese) at 8,000 ft. We were not helped by the Trekking in Greece book, nor the confusing signs of the Hellenic Alpine Club of Sparta (the signs for walkers point in one direction, those for vehicles in another, and there are none at critical junctions). We started out well, to Anavrita up the hairpins we'd once cycled and then on the E4 forest trail which took us to the spring where we'd left Alf and climbed in the snow on May Day 1996. No snow today, still hot but cooler at 4,000 ft than down in the vale of Sparta. Over coffee we met 2 identical shepherds who came to siphon water for their flocks. We learnt that the Refuge (Agia Varvara) is not the hut we'd passed that May Day, but further and higher up. We dropped down and crossed the ford to the spring at Boliana with confusing signposts and then followed the 'EOS Sparti Katafugio' (Refuge) sign and turned right climbing very steeply on stony tracks.

After passing another sign off the track for walkers, we almost gave up on the idea of getting there on Alf until we were encouraged by another right turn labelled 'Katafuglo 2 km'. It was further than that, but we got there, at 5,000 ft, facing east over a little meadow ideal for camping when the Refuge is closed (as it was today, but the key could be got from Sparta!). A sign pointed to the path for climbing the Profitis Ilias peak, suggesting 2 hrs 45 mins. Very content with having found the start of the climb, we finished our coffee and returned to Boliana. From there we took the easier route down to the main Gythion-Sparta road via the village of Paleopanagia, and found the track being hard-topped for most of the way (indeed the seal was still wet on the first stretch). Refuge to camping was 1½ hrs ride. Time to cool off with a swim before supper. A successful day's reconnoitre.

Took the 5 kg German gas bottle into Sparta for refilling in Tripoli (to Peter Kapetaneas' friend, Mr Paviakos, behind the Mystra bus stop). Reading, swimming, watching a range of other campers (Poles with cars and small tents, cyclists and motor bikers, a small British van who didn't approach us, the usual Germans). Made more lemonade in preparation for serious mountain climbing.

The campsite is empty again, not a place people stay long, just visiting the deserted Byzantine city of Mystra. Work on diary. Decided to take an electrical hook-up in order to run the air-conditioner as temperatures are now soaring towards 100 degrees. For the first time ever, we emptied, cleaned and flushed out all the water tanks, using Puriclean, which also proved good for cleaning melamine mugs. Used microwave to make Bran loaf and chocolate cornflake buns (baking with the gas oven would be suicidal in this heat).

It's even hotter! Tried to keep cool by cowering in the dark with the air-conditioner, writing to mum and working on diary. Into Sparta later to collect gas bottle (refilled - 5 kg for £2.50), buy film and raid the bank. M also keeping cool in the campsite pool, which, as you'd expect, is more Spartan than the one at Nopigia, but very pleasant when not taken over by the local uncouth youth.

To the summit of the Taigetos - Profitis Ilias peak at 8,000 ft. We used Alf to scramble as far as the Agia Varvara (St Barbara) Refuge hut again, left him with plenty to drink in the shade and set off at 10.30 am with the very minimum of clothing and the most liquid we could carry (1½ litres water + 2 litres lemonade). The sign suggested 2 hrs 45 mins and proved to be exactly right for us (including a short drink stop every 30 mins). The 2 small Greek parties who set out before us only went a short way to gather herbal tea flowers and we met no-one else except a botanist and his 2 friends returning from photographing the rare butterflies on the hillsides. There were hundreds of these, tiny blue ones and bigger red admiral types.

The route was marked most of the way with metal poles and the surface steep and stony but reasonably walkable until the last half-hour climb (past a huge pothole) on very steep scree to the top of the conical peak. The difficulties were the sun and lack of any water, but we'd learnt from Gavdos and come prepared. Despite the exertion required, the cooling effect of height and breeze made it much more bearable than Sparta, shimmering in the heat haze of the valley below us. Once above the treeline we lost sight of the Refuge roof and the spiky plants and parched grass were tinder dry. There were no animals and very few birds, just butterflies, ladybirds, beetles, flies and lizards.

On the summit were the remains of the chapel to Elijah, on the site of a pagan shrine, and other shelters, built of roughly hewn stone but long bereft of their corrugated iron roofs. This is the border of Lakonia and Messinia provinces, with stunning mountain views all round and the sea of the Messinian Gulf visible to the west. On less hazy days the Lakonian Gulf sea can also be seen to the east, and even Cape Matapan to the south, at the end of the Taigetos range. 3 tiny pockets of snow lingered in crevices below. Trekking in Greece says 'The only view comparable to it in desert-like grandeur is that from the top of Egypt's Mt Sinai but here you have the added bonus of the sea extending in bright ribbons to either side'. What a picnic site!

Going down was a bit easier but by no means faster, taking 2 hrs 30 mins with rests. The pack was lighter but it was warmer. Reunited with a patient AIf, we bumped down the rough tracks to Boliana and joined the Greek picnickers in filling water bottles at the spring. We'd climbed 3000', up and down, in 5 hrs 15 mins. Back to camping about 6 pm to swim, shower, eat, rest, watch final Frost video. The temperature in Rosie was 112 degrees!

Recovery day, still in a heatwave (over 40 degrees C = 105 F). Into Sparta to ring mum and Alan (both out). Bus load of Swiss teenagers arrived and spread all over our field. Time to go! Finished letter to mum and diary for June to send with it. Out to Mystra after dinner to ring Alan again: our Norwich Union policy for Rosie has come from Comfort Insurance and he'll send it with the rest of the post to Gastouni. Rode up to the Fortress Gate in the cool of the evening, looking down on the lights of Sparta below. An amazing place, the last Byzantine stronghold. Watched Vic Reeves videos for relaxation (?)

A moving-on day. Into Sparta early to photocopy diary and post package to mum, including booklets on Ag Irini Gorge and Island of Gavdos. Slightly cooler with a breeze, ideal for driving over the Taigetos. Left by 10 am for a splendid journey over the 4,500 ft pass to Kalamata, with sunshine, breezes, pine trees, ravines, little traffic. Many makeshift stalls selling honey, herbs and souvenirs made of pine cones, and a couple selling cherries. Bought 1/2 kilo of these for 250 dr (60p) when we stopped for coffee. Reached Kalamata harbour for lunch, then rested, read and shopped. After a dinner of vegetable curry and cherry pie, walked round the marina and into the splendid railway park, where a magician was performing conjuring tricks for an audience of children and parents sitting on the grassy slopes under the trees as darkness fell, lit by a thin crescent moon. A splendid end to the day, pleasantly cool at 80 degrees.

39 miles. Free night.

Moving again, we drove on the inland route, towards Megalopoli, turning west to join coast road just above Kiparissia. Beautiful road, lined with trees and oleander bushes, linking the two. Turned down to our secret place by the beach at Giannitsohori for a quiet lunch - though not so secret today, with the old beach bar open plus a new one, grandly named the Pombos Club, popular with Greek lads on motor bikes. Threatened with loud music from the bars late into the night, we reluctantly moved on in the early evening and, seeing no other obvious places, spent the night on the Eurospar car park, just out of Pirgos, empty when the supermarket closed at 9 pm.

78 miles. Free night.

Still moving on. Into Eurospar to shop as soon as it opened at 8 am, then back to the AB supermarket on the opposite side of the crazy triple 2-way roads system, which cuts both supermarkets off from the main central road! Supplied with food and diesel, continued to Ionion Beach, becoming surprised at the number of caravans and motorhomes (German or Austrian) which were on the roads. Father Fligos was at the gate, George in Reception and Theo in the Beach Bar — all pleased to see us yet again (on our fourth visit), and offering us a 25% discount on the normal high season rate. As the only non-Germanics on the site, we took up our position at a suitable distance from them, the place where we had stood on our first visit here in Jan 96. Luckily, the suggested pitch next to Hans and Inge's caravan was too small.

Settled in, rang Clive at Gold about the parking brake cable (ring again Monday), tested the water in the new swimming pool, celebrated by cooking excellent AB pork fillet in cream and mushroom sauce. Later walked along a very different beach to Camping Aginara and played Hunt Mick & Flo. Nothing like as busy as the Ionion site but it still took a few minutes to track them down, inside a new Hymer with the only English couple on site (redundant computer worker from BT and his wife, taking 18 months out, on way to Turkey - remarkably uninteresting, don't even remember their names). Inside the Kontiki it felt familiar and homely, at ease, and it was good to see Mick and Flo looking healthier, even though stressed by the usual stories of thoughtless bungalow-dwellers and disorganised campsite management. They are being (ab)used again and working far too hard. We read their recent letter from Celia, now safely ensconced in Shropshire and wishing she had rich relatives (they forget, they are the rich relatives from whom their children will inherit if they don't spend it!) There was also news of Hetta in Austria, who'd undergone 3 operations for cancer but still hoped to return in the autumn - a woman of some spirit. Walked back at about 10 pm under a very clear starry sky, bright moon reflected on the sea, the lights of Zakinthos — all home territory, yet strangely not at home in what has become a German enclave for the summer months.

27 miles. Camping £8.75 (with elec and discount).

Did dhobi, then into Gastouni on Alf for the market, post (letter from mum) and photos. Slightly changed - there is now a second 'Break' burger bar open all day, plus the original just at night; the market has moved to the streets behind the post office; a small riverside park has appeared by the Bartholomew bridge. Reading, swimming, then Mick & Flo treated us to an excellent meal at an outdoor restaurant at Arcoudi. Lingered over stuffed aubergines, courgette fritters, green beans, chips, lamb chops and chicken with local wine till after 10 pm, then back to Kontiki for coffee and a late ride home in the cold night air.

To Gastouni for photos (2 films from Crete); still no mail from Alan. Pottering day: cleaning Rosie, reading, writing, making lemonade. Mick & Flo came round in the evening to suggest a trip to Amaliada market tomorrow.

To Amaliada market on Alf, with Mick & Flo. AIf, much restored after his £2.50 repair in Herakilon, more or less kept up with their smart 100 c c Honda. Usual routine: coffee in the grey parrot shop, fruit & veg and a mat for our toilet from the market, followed Mick into the butcher's trying not to look too closely at the cow's head (complete with its tail in its mouth) hanging over the door! Then a pleasant chicken and chips lunch together, sitting outside on the edge of the square in the sunshine. Passed the rest of the afternoon back at Kontiki in pleasant idle chat.

Cleaning day: M did the inside, including windows. B busy polishing, back-to-blacking, etc outside. Very warm again now, inside and out. Made a crumble with the nameless fruit which Flo gave us from an Aginara tree (looked like pale cherries, tasted like plums/rhubarb). Very good mixed with an apple and plenty of sugar. Mick & Flo round for the evening and we watched our video of Alexei Sayle's great train journey through Syria and Jordan, as they'd shown some interest in Petra (we were keen to take their minds off cleaning bungalows, but failed).

Cycled into Gastouni, making good time despite the heat (45 mins - our winter record was 40). Collected post from Alan and got new batteries for M's cycle computer. Rest of day spent dealing with the mail. Cheque from MMM for Low Plains Drifting sent to Jersey, M's annual Barclaycard fee paid, cheque to Alan for postage and mum's phone. Nothing from R Jeynes. B sorted out more things to leave for Mick & Flo which we took round in the evening: more coffee and chat.

Cycled into Gastouni in 43 minutes (despite the heat, again) to collect reprints of many photos which weren't ready yesterday from the excellent photographer's. Margaret rang Peter Underwood to tell him R Jeynes had not responded to the 2 letters we'd written him since his last letter in February and that we wished to move the thing to some conclusion. He advised against a solicitor, on the grounds of expense, and said he would act for us and talk to RJ again. We're to ring in a week's time. Most frustrating: he assured us there wasn't a dealers' mafia, but it feels like it. To Bartholomew (Vartholomio) for a farewell meal with Mick & Flo at a small but atmospheric chicken takeaway and restaurant. Chicken, chips and salad, plus a huge watermelon to share 'on the house'. Said goodbye after coffees in Rosie, with some sadness and some relief. Time to move on.

To Patras: lunch on Praktiker car park, shopping at Praktiker and the AB, bank. Found the quayside now closed for parking, so continued through a maze of diversions and closed roads to Rion, where the ferries make the short crossing to Andirion on the opposite side of the Gulf of Corinth. It appears that a much needed bridge is planned. The decision to eat at Goody's, just 4 km along the road towards Corinth, cost us an extra 1000 dr (2.50) road toll, but we did use their car park for the night afterwards.

73 miles. Free night.

Easy 10-minute crossing on the landing craft (drive on, reverse off), packed so tightly between lorries, buses and cars we could hardly exit the cab, and by 9.30 am we had finally left the Peloponnese. Drove to Agrinio, bypassing Messolongi (which we had visited in December 1995), a route which was new to us after the turnoff for the Nidri Bay coastal road, which we'd followed when we first entered Greece through Igoumenitsa. The main crop was tobacco, irrigated from the marshy lakes on either side of the road. The roadside stalls sold watermelon (Karpousi), of which there seem far too many! Our fridge is still full with the rest of the one Mick gave us.

Stopped for lunch in Arta, parked outside the old town, and used Alf to explore. We found the castle closed, so could not walk its Byzantine walls, but did visit the amazing 5-domed 13th century church of Panagia Paragoritissa, with its central dome supported on an unwieldy scaffold of ancient pillars cantilevered from the sides. We gazed up at the huge mosaic of Christ in Majesty and hoped he warded off earthquakes. The nearby monks' refectory was a small archaeological museum, and their cells awaited renovation. Saw 2 smaller churches of the same period from the outside: Ag Theodora and Ag Vassilios with charming brick and tile decoration.

On to Preveza and a good, if expensive, campsite (Kalamitsi Beach) just out of town and off the beach, in a large olive grove, with restaurant and swimming pool. Was today Ian Inglis's wedding??

141 miles. £12.75 inc elec and small discount for C C.

Into Preveza to check on ferries across to Aktion, for visiting Lefkada. After lunch met a family from Leicester - Paul Ticher, Gill, kids Sophie (7) and Bridget (5) - and helped mend Bridget's bike puncture. They've taken 3 months out to tour to Greece in a VW minibus plus large tent. They gave us 2 boxes of Oxfam teabags (they work as consultants to charities, right on) and came round with a bottle of wine in the evening to sample Rosie's comforts and our peanuts. Good conversation and exchange of books. Gill had studied prehistoric archaeology but no knowledge of Minoans beyond the conventional. We learnt that the plural of 'Sony Walkman' is 'Sony Walkpersons' (or did we miss something in the translation?)

On Alf through the cool and mist up to Ancient Kassopi on the slopes of Mount Zalongo at 2,000 ft. A city-state from 4thC BC covering a huge site with views down to the coast. The polygonal walls, a tomb, an overgrown theatre, rambling beyond the tidily excavated agora. We had a picnic lunch waiting for the cloud to lift to see the colossal concrete and stone effigies of the Souliot women on the edge of a cliff behind the Zalongo Moni (a convent) 4 km to the north above us. Very impressive from a distance, the statues of 2 women, a girl and a child holding hands in a line, where 60 women and children danced over the precipice in 1803, fleeing from Ali Pasha's troops who were advancing on the Moni where they'd taken refuge. Followed a coach party of Greek visitors into the Moni (restored, but old frescoes in chapel) and then climbed the path with 410 steps to stand beside the statues, just crude block figures seen so closely, but visible for miles around, weather permitting.

Riding back, we saw our first tortoise of the year ambling down the road and put him in safety, a beautiful big specimen with delicately scalloped edge to his shell. Returned via Roman Nikopolis (Augustus's Victory City which we first visited in Dec 95), managing this time to find the obscure track leading up to the remains of his victory monument, erected on the site where his tent stood during the Battle of Actium which defeated Antony and Cleopatra's fleet in 31 BC. It was surrounded in Keep Out barbed wire and No Photos While Work in Progress Signs (which it wasn't). Paul, Gill and family round in the evening for lemonade and popcorn, the children bringing a super pipe-cleaner mobile and drawings of Rosie.

Farewell to Paul and Gill, leaving for the Igoumenitsa—Ancona ferry, then into Preveza in search of a camera repair shop for the compact 35mm Minolta which has jammed. No success: try Athens! Rang mum, learnt Alan on way to the Dolomites. Made lemonade and relaxed, reading, writing, swimming.

Long day on Alf round Lefkada (or Leukas), an Ionion island linked to the mainland by a causeway, and Micks favourite. Took the landing craft ferry from Preveza to Aktion, where twin forts guard the entrance to the Ambracian Gulf: a 10-minute crossing, costing less than £1 for all 3 of us, but due to be replaced by the tunnel which is being built. (Wouldn't a bridge be cheaper?) Past Preveza airport, where the packages arrive for Lefkada, and another 10 miles or so and over the causeway to Lefkada town, a marina-port at the head of a lagoon. Down the west coast, by cliffs and amazingly turquoise sea, through the crowded little Greek beach resort of Ag Nikitas, then a long, windy, hilly route through olive groves, cypresses and vineyards to Kamilio and on, the road turning into a track for the last 8 miles, to the southern tip at Cape Doukato, marked by a lighthouse and (supposedly) the traces of a temple to Apollo which were too faint for us.

Used the larger Canon camera to photograph the site of 'Sappho's or Leukas Leap', a wild cliff 75 m/240' asl, from which poetess Sappho jumped to her death after Phaon deceived her in love. Legends also have the priests of Apollo jumping off the cliff wearing some kind of wings and landing safely in nets on the sea, or (more likely) the priests selected criminals or lunatics to perform the stunt. Now it's the site of a hang-gliding tournament every summer. Plus ça change

Returned via Vassiliki, a small port and sailboarding centre with a crowded campsite and plenty of sails, and on wider roads up the eastern side, through Nidri, packed with package tourists and tavernas which deterred us from pausing to visit its harbour. Back to Lefkada town along the side of the shallow lagoon, used for fish farming and salt extraction, finally reaching Preveza just before dark: well over 100 miles on one of Greece's less attractive islands (apologies to Mick & Flo).

Time to move on. Collected reprints of photos of Bill and Heather from Preveza, persuaded campsite owner to give a small discount (totalling nearly £3) for the Camping Carnet (she gives 10% but only after 10 days' stay), and drove to Ioannina, once Ali Pasha's capital and now that of Epiros. A big modern university town, set on the edge of a large lake in the mountains (1700 ft asl), industrial and picturesque (we saw 2 storks nesting on an old factory chimney). The campsite was only a mile out of town on the lakeside, sharing the facilities with the boating club. A bit cramped, with no organised pitches, it filled up at tea-time each day with a variety of small tents, motorbikers, caravans and bobils from many countries, including an ancient Bedford with a New Zealand family whose 3 kids slept outside on the grass! Interesting watching the watersports - mostly university-style rowing, coxless pairs, canoeists and the odd water-skier. No swimming, as the lake is too polluted.

67 miles. Camping £9.62 inc electricity.

In the morning went to Ancient Dodona, only 13 miles away but 630 m/2067 ft high, well hidden in the hills. Luckily arrived before the German Gruppen and the heat got too intense. Site of Greece's first oracle at a sanctuary dedicated to Zeus. The oracle spoke through the whispering of the leaves of the sacred oak tree, interpreted by the priests who never washed their feet and slept under it on the ground. Hercules and Odysseus were among those who consulted it. Homer writes of 'Wintry Dodona'. Later, under King Pyrrhus in early 3rdC BC, the temple of Zeus and an enormous theatre, holding 18,000 and larger than Epidavros, were built. Also remains of a stadium, whose seating is in the same hillside to the left of the theatre, and on the right of it a bouleuterion (assembly hail). The Romans adapted the theatre for their blood sports, adding a wall before the front row of seats. The temple was destroyed with the spread of Christianity in 4thC AD, when the oak tree was felled, but a modern one marks the place. The theatre was rebuilt in the late l9thC and is still used for summer festival cultural concerts and plays, in a glorious setting.

The afternoon was spent in a cooler place, the Perama Caves, extending for miles beneath a low hill only a couple of miles north round the lake from our campsite. Supposed to be Greece's largest system of caves with the greatest variety of stalactites and stalagmites in the world. Certainly the most amazing we've seen, on a 45-minute guided walk through with a largely Greek group. Only discovered accidentally, by villagers sheltering from bombardment during WWII, they have no connections with Zeus, being unknown to all but some cave bears who left their bones and teeth.

Rang Clive at Gold, and the handbrake cable has arrived! To be sent to Kalambaka.

Into loannina to shop and explore. Bought eye-drops from Pharmacy for B's eyes, sore from too much looking, and some super-strong Stugeron tablets for our next rough voyage. Noticed how numerous and diligent the traffic police are here, even reminding us about a one-way street we were negligently cruising. Visited the Archaeological Museum, with a very well presented collection of finds from Arta, Dodona, the Necromanteion at Ephyra, Kassopi and around. Most fascinating was a case of oracular inscriptions from Dodona (questions engraved on lead tablets, some with a reply on the reverse). The domestic fears and concerns of the pilgrims included "Am I her children's father?", "Will this wife bear me a son?", and others asking whether to buy a ship and take to sea (answer: no, stay), whether to become a smith, which gods to worship, whether to move the town temple, and what had become of a slave. Most interesting object from the Necromanteion was a surprisingly modern-looking bit of machinery - a ratchet from the winch used to lower the drugged pilgrims into the bowels of the temple to consult the shades of the dead! Finally rode up to the Tourist Pavilion above the town for a view of the lake and its little island with the monastery where All Pasha was beheaded, then home to put the air-con on and relax.

Overcast, some rain at last, but still warm at 80°F. Reading, writing (diary and letter to Bill and Heather), dhobi and baking day. B's right eye responding to treatment with Dispersadron C Eye Drops by Ciba Vision. Thunder storm interrupted our evening video 'Room at the Top', which now seems very dated and wooden, with upper class actors trying and failing to keep up their version of Yorkshire working class accents.

A planned ride to the Zagoria villages in the Pindos Mountains to the north was abruptly abandoned when B gashed his head on the corner of a protruding low roof on the campsite. Clutching a blood-soaked pad to it, we took a taxi to the local hospital, where he was quickly and efficiently seen by 2 nurses who laid him down, shaved his hair back and put a clean dressing on till a doctor came. No tetanus was needed (due 12.99) but a surgeon was called to put 4 stitches in, without anaesthetic. Favourite word of the day Telos' (finished). The job was completed with a spray of white stuff from a mystery aerosol (antiseptic or clotting agent?) If meant to numb the pain, it didn't.

Another taxi and we were back home within an hour of the accident. The Niflamol capsules (anti-inflammatory analgesic, very strong pain killers) which M had been prescribed by the dentist in Sparta were very effective and by the afternoon B had recoverd enough to refill the water tank from a distant tap, using 4 hoses, one borrowed from some Italian neighbours. M spent the afternoon washing the blood stains out of various articles, especially the sea and sky blue Cretan cap which had absorbed a lot but came up like new after scrubbing with 'Vanish', unlike B's head which reminds us of Frankenstein's monster with dried blood and white powder in his hair, which cannot be washed until the stitches are removed in a week's time.

Apart from that (!) it was a lovely day, perfect weather, a stork walking along the boat club landing stage and taking off over the lake, an excellent evening on TV (Rowan Atkinson's 'Thin Blue Line' followed by the Agatha Christie 'Death on the Nile', with Peter Ustinov OTT as Poirot).

A relaxing day of reading, writing and domestics at the campsite. B seems fully recovered, no longer in need of pain killers, and his eyes are a lot better with continuing treatment. Watched a pair of Great Crested Grebe swimming and diving opposite, saw the stork fly over again and shared bread and biscuits with the resident flock of sparrows.

Long day on AIf, requiring 2 fills of petrol so well over 140 miles, to explore the Vikos Gorge and the western Zagori villages. Along the main road towards Konitsa, past fields of tobacco, the leaves of which were being picked and put into wicker baskets and hung to dry on long low polythene-covered racks. Also vineyards and fruit trees. Turned off and climbed to the villages of Vitsa and Monodendri, pausing first for coffee by a huge, bronze, hill-top statue of a woman carrying a box on her back. The Greek inscription seemed to mention 40 women, but we found no reference to it in our guidebooks. The villages of Zagoria have mountain-style houses of grey stone with shingle roofs and narrow cobbled streets. Another 5 miles from Monodendri up a forest track, ending at the hamlet of Osia, we took a short giddy walk to a viewpoint of the Vikos Gorge, the ribbon of the River Voidomatis winding 1000 metres (3,281 ft) below. Tour companies organise treks through it (5 hrs one way). Decided to leave the walk to the eagle's nest Moni of Paraskevi, teetering on the brink of the gorge, to those with a better head for heights and ate our lunch by the old church in Vitsa. Continued towards Kipi, passing one of the l8thC packhorse bridges for which the region is famous, right beside the main road opposite the more modern bridge we crossed.

Made a side-trip to Vradheto, climbing high above the Vikos Gorge, to find the viewpoint opposite Osia but it was only accessible by 30 minutes' hot climbing from the end of Alf's track, so we continued through Tsepolovo, the last village with any signs of tourism (a hotel), and on through increasingly wild and intimidating country. When consulting the map a passing driver warned us against taking a track to the right - "Problem Dromos (road), Albanians". As we'd heard on the radio that stray Albanians were terrorising bordering mountain villages, we heeded his warning and went to the end of the tarmac road in the village of Vrissohori. The path appeared to continue to Konitsa, crossing the Aoos Gorge (a tributary of the Voidhomatis) but it was late and petrol was low, so we returned the way we had come, rescuing a lovely tortoise from certain death in the middle of the road as we went (though he's probably still lost!).

A well-earned supper in Goody's back in loannina.

Food shopping in loannina. Caught in heavy afternoon rain, after which we explored the l3thC fortress, rebuilt by All Pasha as his citadel. Once the walls dropped to the lake and it was moated on the landward side. Now there is a fine promenade and gardens below the ramparts. It contains the Aslan Pasha Mosque and minaret, converted into a little Popular Museum (Epirot costumes, weapons, jewellery, china, etc, and a poignant section with synagogue rugs and costumes donated by the dwindling Jewish community, a remant of the 6,000 who lived here last century). The interior of the dome is well preserved with Islamic pattern decoration. The inner citadel, containing All's palace where Byron was entertained, was mainly in ruins and we failed to find his tomb, near a derelict mosque. A splendid new Byzantine Museum dominated the area: that and the taverna were finished, the rest a jumble of building work and unidentified remains.

A bus full of Poles arrived and occupied the camping in little tents (the old-fashioned kind that are held up by a pole at each end).

Long day on AIf to Konitsa and the north Pindhos. The word OXI was marked on a hilltop in white stones, visible from the main road, a reminder of the Metaxas dictatorship's stand against Mussolini in 1940, with the apocryphal answer 'Oxi' (No) to the demand for passage for the Italian troops from Albania through Greece. Oxi Day, 28 October, is still a national holiday.

Konitsa is a delightful town, 'ampitheatrically arranged' on the slopes of Mount Trapezitsa above the flood plain where the Aoos mingles with the Voidhomatis, only 10 miles from Albania (though the only border crossing is some distance away). We did see a Genevan Red Cross lorry parked in a compound and 2 groups of new pre-fab bungalows which may have been for refugees?

Photographed the giant 1870 packhorse bridge over the Aoos, had coffee in the square, then climbed into the Pindhos, past a 1940 war memorial, to leave civilisation and all its madness behind, in pine-forested splendour. Lunch in the tiny village of Elefthero and on to Paleoseli, which was as far as the excellent mountain switchback road had got. Thence on a rough track, descending 2,500 ft on steep and lonely hairpins to the bottom of the Aoos Gorge, crossing on a new bridge and climbing the other side to emerge as planned in Vrissohori, our turning point of 2 days ago. Wonderful to make the link, to complete a mountain cirque, with time and petrol to spare. However, we were not yet home and dry! Thunder and lightning flashed right overhead as we continued and torrents of rain turned the road into a stream, with toads swimming happily across! There was no shelter until the village of Skamnelli, where we huddled by a drinking fountain for a while, then a few miles further had an expensive but welcome coffee in Tsepelovos hotel. Extremely cold and wet by the time we reached home, and without waterproofs we'd have been in serious trouble. Very glad of Rosie's warmth and shelter and braised pork chops.

Moving on, we drove over Greece's highest road, the spectacular Ioannina-Metsovo-Kalambaka route through the Pindhos, In addition to the scenery it was remarkable for the number of touring caravans and bobils and, strangely, of German-registered cars (many from Berlin) returning from Turkey with Gastarbeiter families. Is this the new route replacing the annual Turkish migration routes of Eastern Europe? Bypassing the narrow streets of Metsovo, we rested on its Ski Station Car Park a few miles on and watched a train of pack horses, laden with logs, come down a track and take the road for Metsovo, the capital of the nomadic Vlach people.

Horses and foals roamed freely along and across the next stretch of mountain forest road, its sides dotted with stalls selling fruit (mainly peaches and melons), Halva and Turkish Delight. The Katara Pass, 1694 m or over 5500', is kept open except in blizzards, but will soon be replaced by a new all-weather bypass with tunnel. Again, stormy rain set in by late afternoon and we decided against spending a night at the top.

Entering Kalambaka, there was a bewildering array of signs for campsites which we left to consider tomorrow, parking for the night below Ag Nikolaos, the first of the Meteora Monasteries just out of Kastraki. We were joined by 3 Italian camping cars. 77 miles. Free night.