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Spanish Fiestas by Motorhome (Dr Bob & Sandra) PDF Printable Version
Article Index
Introduction
Three Fiestas
Pamplona
House Problems
 
Tomorrow is 'The Battle of the Wines' and we shall be staying the night at the site so we have no difficulty with access in the morning. Itīs on a hill about 6km outside Haro at the site of the shrine to San Felices. More later.

Our plans for this year (2005) are to visit all the main fiestas. We started in Seville for Semana Santa (Easter) and stayed at the campsite at Dos Hermanos, which is in the garden of an old villa with lots of history.

Semana Santa in Seville was magical and the whole week just shot by. We stayed up the entire night for La Madruga which is the Thursday night - right through until nine o'clock on Friday morning. This is the night of la Silencia and La Macarena (which, of course, is a district in Seville). I only wish I was articulate enough to put the spectacle on paper but then so much of it was the emotion of the crowd responding to the relics (paseos) as they were carried along by up to 50 men. The atmosphere was electric and so good-humoured. There were no raised voices, arguments, drunks, pushing etc. Everyone was in harmony. And the food was great - enough said.

After a visit to Malaga, where Sandraīs family were visiting for a 2 week holiday, we drove on to Jerez de la Frontera. We were aiming to spend time at the Horse Fair which runs from the 1st to the 8th of May. The knocking down of the Bulls takes place at Arcos, 25 km. outside Jerez, and was scheduled for 2 days. We arrived on the second day to find that, due to an epidemic of bovine blue tongue disease, the local Military Commander had shortened the event to one day (the day before).

So it was back to Jerez and the start of the Horse Fair that evening with the firework display and the turning on of the illuminations. We visited the Escuela (Horse School) and sat through one of the 2-hour spectacles. Unlike working dogs, horses donīt seem to show so much enjoyment. We did the zoo and got absolutely hammered on the Domecq Bordega tour. They make Harveys Bristol cream which has always been one of my weaknesses, and hic, it was all in the price. Unfortunately they stopped me taking away the partly used bottles which I though was a little uncharitable!!!

We stayed in Jerez to take in the Dressage competitions before returning to Malaga but this time on the route of the white villages. Coming in we had driven along the Route of the Bulls, and on a side trip to Cadiz we had managed the Route of the Wines as we had returned to Jerez via Chipiana and San Lucar.

Needless to say it was another memorable outing although we were astounded to learn that we had actually missed a huge fiesta in Cadiz in February. (Maybe we can make that one in 2006, before we leave for Australia).

Soon, we leave for 5 weeks in Northern Spain, travelling to La Rioja for the Battle of the Wines and the Stilt Dancing Fiesta. Then it's on to Navarre for Sanfermin in Pamplona (the Running of the Bulls). We will return home about the first week of August.

Mr.Custard struggles on from strength to strength and we love the lifestyle it facilitates. We only stay on campsites when we have to, as we find them generally noisy with a lack of privacy. We have had a gas alarm fitted, but thatīs about all. One can go on adding, but then 'things' can be the bane of modern living.

Well, we just witnessed the īRunning of the Bullsī from a rented balcony. Not at all what we were expecting. Not the small fighting bulls of Western Spain, but large cumbersome animals that appeared better fitted to the abertoir than the bull ring. Still, weīve done it. We stay on until the close of the fiesta at 24.00hrs on the 14th. and then headed back to la Rioja for 2 more fiestas before heading south.

For those interested there are 2 websites: www.sanfermin.com which gives daily pictures of events, and www.runningofthenudes.com which was on the 5th July. This is the group opposed to bullfighting - and I canīt say that we are not sympathetic.

Pamploma is just one huge strreet party and the crowds, noise, filth, smell of vomit etc, has to be experienced to be beleived.

Iīve just been interviewed by the Spanish newspaper, Diario Navarre re the bombings in London yesterday and if I get a copy e-mailed to myself, Iīll send on the picture. Nice not to have to inform Press Office.
 
The Battle of the Wines in Haro was outstanding, and I have rarely seen so many claret coloured, soaking wet people all united in fun and happiness.