A FOUR-DAY 224-MILE CYCLE RIDE IN FINLAND

NORTH OF THE ARCTIC CIRCLE

AUGUST 1999

Dry, bright, the nice receptionist at Harriniva says we can leave the motorhome here a few days for free and we're off to ride the Arctic fells. After emptying the fridge into our panniers and loading the bicycles with tent, sleeping bags, cooking gear, spare clothes, radio, books, compass, etc we set off along the cycle path into Muonio, where we completed our preparations with a supply of chocolate bars and liquorice sticks (Finnish – the very best!) Then we rode in earnest, north-west along the river on road 400 into a gathering west wind. Very little traffic - this road just crosses the fells of Lapland towards Norway. Self-sufficiency is essential (the only Grilli we saw all day was closed).

We stopped after 20 miles to eat our chicken sandwiches and brew up in a cosy bus shelter at Kätkäsuvanto. It had been painted with murals inside and out by the village children (all 8 of them had added their names) and had a good seat and table. After another 15 miles at Palojoensuu we left the river, to turn right (east) on road 93. It was a better wind direction (now from the NW) but we had 10 miles of road works to negotiate, then a rest and a brew-up behind a woodpile (the only buildings in these parts) before the last few miles to Enontekio (or Heta), arriving about 5 pm. We had driven this route in the motorhome 2 weeks ago to cross into Norway and knew this town had a couple of campsites and a shop.

The first campsite demanded 80 Finmks to put up our tent (as much or more than we had paid for the motorhome plus electricity at Inari and Muonio), so we tried the second and settled for 65. We had the site to ourselves, pitched the tent by the stream and made and ate supper in the kitchen, which had no heating but did provide hot water and 4 slow electric rings. The first time we'd used the tent for 7 years and we certainly chose a cold night to try it, but we survived in the new Karrimor sleeping bags and almost enjoyed it!

Camping £7.64

Breakfast in the camp kitchen, then into Enontekio to buy bread and check campsite details at the Tourist Office. It was cool and cloudy with the wind in the SW, but no rain and warmer as the sun got up.

We continued riding east for 20 miles to the crossroads at Peltovuoma, marked by a shop, a school and a bus shelter, in which we made lunch. We now had a choice of route, south to Raattama (with camping and cabins at the Tunturihotelli or 'Hotel of the Fells') or east to Nunnanen, where there were rumoured to be cabins. After cycling another 10 miles to Nunnanen, crossing wide strips of unsurfaced road through rolling fells of birch and pine forest, there was no sign of camping or cabins (just isolated farmhouses). Faced with 45 miles of empty road until Köngäs we turned back to Peltovuoma and took the Raattama road, south into the wind for 20 miles. We passed nothing but an empty lay-by and no-one but a reindeer, who ran across the road leaving splayed footprints in the sandy banks.

At Vuontispirtti, 3 miles before Raattama, the sign for the 'Hotel of the Fells' pointed 2 miles up a side road. It was gone 6 pm as we arrived at a collection of wooden buildings nestling in the forest - a good hotel-restaurant and an assortment of cabins and cottages. The receptionist offered us a cabin for 200 Finmks, or we could pitch the tent and use the kitchen and bathroom in the 'hostel' for 50. As we considered the choice, she took pity on us and added that we could sleep in the hostel as well, for no extra charge, since it was empty!

We had a 4-bedded room to ourselves, blankets and pillows, central heating, kitchen and bathroom adjoining! We made supper and slept well.

Hostel £5.88

Warm and rested, we rode back to the main road and on to Raattama (8 miles). We barely saw tarmac again for the rest of the day! There were 19 miles of unsurfaced track to Tepasto, through thick forest, south-east along the river Ounasjoki on our left. We made coffee on the river bank by a lone house with rowing boats moored outside. The inevitable house-husky barked but no-one appeared.

At Tepasto cross-roads a good lay-by provided shelter to make lunch and we watched 2 men arrive by canoe, come ashore and walk off down the road, knives tucked in their boots. Where or why they went, we'll never know! We could now have headed 10 miles south to camping at Köngäs but the weather was warmer and we felt fitter and stronger, so took the long way round, starting with 10 miles north to Lompolo on a narrow surfaced road with passing places (but nothing passed!) Missing our unsigned right turn onto a forest track, we passed a cafe-shop which appeared to be closed. Entering in search of water, we found it run by a large Sami woman, busy knitting socks and mittens to stock the shelves. She was only too pleased to provide coffee, biscuits, cheesecake and Pulla (home-made sweet bread-buns) in exchange for Finmks (who needs language?)

Turning back we found the track we'd missed and rode 14 miles east on a rough forest path, climbing and falling through reindeer territory, splendidly empty. We brewed up in the woods, briefly considered how wild camping would feel and decided to press on to Hanhimaa! Slowed by the dirt tracks, it was getting late when we eventually hit the road from Inari which we'd driven down recently. Full of pot-holes, it was no better for cycling than for driving and after 10 miles south, through Hanhimaa, we reached Loma Harjula, which we knew to have at least one cabin. It was in fact a luxury family-size log-cabin with bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen and living room - this we deserved! We used the microwave but didn't stay up watching TV or playing 'Trivial Pursuit' in Finnish! With a choice of 8 beds we slept very well.

Of today's 60 miles, 40 were on unsurfaced tracks in the forest.

Cottage £23.52

After rain in the night, the pot-holed dirt road west to Köngäs was slippery with mud and we rode carefully for 10 miles, pausing to buy bread at a petrol station (just as well, since it was the only shop we were to see).

Köngäs was simply a youth hostel and a crossroads, where we turned south for 5 miles towards Sirkka-Levi to meet road 79 north-west for Munonio. A delightful ride through reindeer forest, climbing and falling along the southern edge of the fells or Tunturi. We had circled the Ounastunturi and Pallastunturi region of Lapland. The weather was warmer (no gloves today) but Ruska (autumn) is arriving in all its glory, the birch trees turning yellow and gold, the rich undergrowth crimson, the forest floor studded with black, purple and red berries, blooming heather and all kinds of fungi - reindeer heaven!

We stopped to make coffee in a woodcutter's clearing and again for lunch at a lay-by picnic table by a lake. Near the ski hotel at Särkijärvi (jarvi = lake), about 7 miles before Muonio, a Kioski provided mugs of coffee and cake to linger over in the sunshine on the flower-decked terrace. Then it was downhill to Muonio, which felt like a big town after 4 days in the forest fells - a bank, post office, choice of 2 shops! Back to Harriniva, where the motorhome was patiently waiting by the splendid river. We were both sorry and pleased to be home.