1. Currency: The old currency (approximately 50,000 Lei to the Pound Sterling) has been changed. One New Lei = 10,000 Old Lei, giving about 5 New Lei to the Pound, or 3.5 New Lei to the Euro, which makes for easier mental arithmetic. New Lei (notes) are divided into 100 Bani (coins). This seems simple, except that both old and new notes are still in valid circulation - even ATM machines issue a mixture of old and new! Further, Romanians got used to dropping the word 'thousand' when talking prices, and still say, for example, that the 2 coffees you want cost '80', meaning 80,000 old lei, or 8 new lei. Confused? You betcha! The old currency is to be withdrawn at the end of 2006.

2. Road Tax: An inexpensive 'vignette' called a Rovinieta must now be purchased on entering the country and displayed in the windscreen, for driving on all roads (not just motorways). After crossing the border, look out for the word Rovinieta on a sign outside a petrol station. Not all filling stations sell them, by any means, and there was no information about the system at our entry point. Romanian drivers buy one valid for a year, but tourists can purchase 7 days (about €2.00) or a month (about €5.00). The actual sticker does not specify the length of time purchased, so it's important to keep the receipt to show – though we were never asked for it. If asked for a lot more money than this, refuse to pay and go on to another petrol station! When our one month was up and we needed another for our final week, one station tried to charge a huge amount, classifying our motorhome as a commercial bus. The correct category is 'European Tourist'!

3. Supermarkets: The 2 cash & carry warehouse chains, Metro and Selgros, no longer allow foreign tourists to shop on production of a passport. However, more self-service supermarkets are now to be found, though queues will be long and the names unfamiliar (eg 'XXL' and 'Trident'). Tesco, Lidl, etc, have not yet penetrated Romania.

4. Road Conditions: We must warn that many of the roads are in a worse condition than on our last visit. Some are the subject of lengthy road works and road widening schemes, while others have been left to disintegrate into holes and slides, perhaps anticipating EU grants. In particular, we found the E576 from Bistrita to Vatra Dornei, over the Tihuta Pass, in a dreadful state, including the section on from Vatra Dornei to Iacobeni. Road 18, from Iacobeni to Borsa, over the Prislop Pass, was worse - so bad that we turned back. There are very few motorways and very many heavy lorries. You will still find uneven cobblestones here and there!

5. Driving Standards: As the volume of traffic increases, the driving standards are the worst we have seen in Europe (including Greece, Ireland, Portugal, or any other contender). Speed limits, white lines and traffic signs are meaningless. Their overtaking is your nightmare. Please drive defensively!

6. Sibiu European Cultural Capital: Sibiu in Transylvania is to be the European Cultural Capital in 2007. George and Jane Swindail write that in June 2004 they stayed on 'Grand Hotel Camping' behind one of the hotels near the Folk Museum at Dumbrava a couple of miles south of the town and found it spacious, with reasonable facilities. However, in 2006 we were told that the camping had closed down. See our List of 66 Romanian Campsites for alternative places to stay. We do know from experience that there is virtually no parking in Sibiu! To visit the town, we went by train from Carta (Camping De Oude Wilg) – a pleasant ride of nearly 1.5 hours for about 80 pence each!

7. Gypsies: Do not be afraid of the raggle taggle gypies oh! Even if everyone says that you should be. It's your shoes they want, not your life! They are among the poorest and least considered people in the land and they need and deserve your sympathy, cigarettes, food, clothing and even cash. They are and will continue to be the guardians of tradition in Romania and the maintainers of the wonderful working horses and their carts.