MOTORHOME TRAVELLERS' DIARY FOR NOVEMBER 2001

GREECE

Barry and Margaret Williamson

01 NOVEMBER 2001 GR CAMPING IONION BEACH

A beautiful day, no wind, making the climb out of Glifa seem easy (as it should be after riding round the world, up and down alps and things like that). The flowers are still blooming - roses, hibiscus, purple bougainvillaea, autumn crocus, cyclamen and many more, while the winter lemons hang green on the trees. The market was in full swing, stalls and pavements covered in local produce (including tubs of active snails), the only imported fruit being the banana barrow. Carpets and clothes (sold by the gypsies, by tradition), live rabbits, hens and kids, hardware and linen, it's all here. We bought fruit & veg and rode back, pausing in Vartholomio to post the second letter to Stan. We were again charged 200 dr (like the first sent from Gastouni yesterday), so either it's the same price as a letter to the UK, or they've gone by sea, or are on their way to Austria instead of Australia, or something else only the Greeks could think of! We need to find an English-speaking postmaster to check.

We telephoned Travelbag, having considered their letter and the current situation, to see if the World Discovery Ticket can be used to go out to Oz via South Africa instead of Thailand-Malaysia. It can indeed, for the same price with up to 6 stopovers and up to 2 internal flights in Australia thrown in, provided we don't exceed 29,000 miles (but see later for snag). So M also rang Stanfords Travel Bookshop and ordered a Lonely Planet guide to S Africa, to be sent poste haste to Gastouni. After lunch more letters were written - to Travelbag, asking for a provisional itinerary for the new route, and to the CTC for any info they have on South Africa - all to be sent direct to Greece. We also sorted the rest of the post and wrote to the bank in Huddersfield.

Up and over the hill again to Vartholomio to post yesterday's letters. Barry decided to visit the meticulous barber there, so M went into the salon next door. Toula (fluent in English as she went to school in Toronto) turned out to be Flo's hairdresser. She couldn't get hold of the idea of a simple short cut, and had to shampoo, primp, mousse, tong and spray into a 'hairdo'. Her suggestions for a colour rinse (to add shine and cover grey hairs), an eyebrow trim or a light perm were politely declined! The resulting bill was still 7,000 dr (about £13), while B paid only 2,000 (£3.75) for the same sort of medium-term effect. Next time, we'll both try the barber! But we felt better with neat cuts; the last time was in New Zealand last January, so we're set for another year. We spent the afternoon cleaning Rosie inside and out, doing the dhobi, baking, etc. The evening TV weather forecast gave severe storms tomorrow, but all was calm as we went to bed. Then the rain and wind got up, resulting in Barry going out to get the washing off the lines at 4 am before it blew away to Zakynthos!

Plans to cycle to Amaliada and/or see Mick & Flo were abandoned, as Rosie rocked in the gale and rain poured down from a leaden sky. What an abrupt change. Zakynthos disappeared from the horizon, though the sea didn't get too rough as the wind was off the land. So we had a day's work on the Brother, getting the diary and accounts up to date. We also wrote to Martin & Clare, to Turners, and to Endsleigh + 3 other companies for quotations for travel insurance for the next Big Ride. The evening news showed the results of the gales - deep snow in the mountains of the north including Ioannina, floods and high seas round Salonika, it seems we got off lightly.

The rain has gone, though the wind is still strong. A quiet morning, B finishing the 3,000-word critique of the Cadogan Guide to the Peloponnese - one copy to the publisher's and one to Linda Theodorou (Mrs Coldwater Camping). M made a big coffee & walnut cake. We replied to the Swatman's text message from Corfu, asking us to contact a couple in a 4-Winds identical to Rosie (Ian & Nina, on their way to Greece and keen to meet and know where we got our new cushions done!) and obeyed their request.

The wind dropped enough after lunch to venture out, along the shore to Glifa Harbour and back round the lanes, very bracing. But we had a glorious sunset (about 5.30 pm Greek time) over Zakynthos, which has reappeared, so we hope the storm has passed now.

Calmer weather. We wrote to Rough Guides to ask for a free copy of their new Guide to Australia having seen our letter in Rough News. We got and replied to a text message from Stan, in Darwin, and had an answer from Ian & Nina, who hope to see us in December - they land on the 12th.

After lunch we walked up the beach to Aginara to check on Mick & Flo, nicely settled in a month ago after a summer of adventures at the Shrewsbury Laundry. They looked much happier than when last seen 18 months ago, perhaps because Hertha isn't here this winter (recovering from surgery for stomach cancer in Austria). We drank their strong black coffee and ate chocolate-filled croissants and talked until dark. They are temporarily 'in charge' while Jorgo is away and have a free pitch & power for the winter in return for unspecified duties. The Kon-tiki looks much the same, but for the addition of a smart self-standing awning room, bought in part with the proceeds of selling the generator they never used. They were delighted to see us, giving some alternative company to the only other English residents, over-70's Cliff & Eileen with a caravan, here for their second winter. Last year they also had Stan & Celia, Martin & Clare. They won't admit to missing Stan, but were thrilled to get news of him and showed us the postcard he sent them from the Kakadu National Park.

M rang Advantage, a company advertising bargain ink-jet refills for all makes (in the CTC mag of all places) and the nice man promised to post an inexpensive 'universal refill kit' which would suit the Brother, direct to Gastouni: another problem solved. Also rang the Australian Visa place to check they'd received our passports and was assured they were being processed at the Australian Embassy (this can take 3 weeks).

In Gastouni we posted letters and left 10 rolls of film, from New Zealand onwards. Dionysus was as warm as ever and talked at length about the history of Loutras Kyllini (a spa since Roman times and popular enough at the end of the 18thC to have a railway line out from Gastouni - now sadly deserted and neglected). At the stationer's we photocopied the October travel-log for Mum and got her a birthday card and book, then continued along the New Nat Rd to Amaliada.

Peppas, at the motorbike shop, was out but the man at the TV repair place was in and Barry gave him the music centre to look at (the CD player stopped working yesterday). Luckily, it just needed a clean and was fixed in under 5 minutes (for free, just a tip). Yes, we still feel at home here, especially after feasting on souvlaki, chicken, chips and hot toast drizzled with olive oil at our usual place, the Pikantiko - our first dining out since July (fish & chips with Mum)! Refuelled, we cycled back, calling at the new Dia and Lidl stores on the edge of Amaliada as we went.

Back at Ionion Beach, we had 2 surprises. Parked near us on the beach-front were Nick & Kathy (met last month at Preveza) on their way back to Patras after touring the Peloponnese. As we talked to them, another Brit came up to ask if we were out of the 4-Winds. We didn't recognise him at first (nor he us, after the short haircuts), but it turned out to be Phil & Jean (met at Ancona in early October waiting for their ferry) on their way back from driving to Cyprus for their grand-daughter's wedding! Both couples had called here on our recommendation, though unsure whether we'd meet again. Another amazing travel coincidence or two.

Nick & Kathy came in for the evening, bringing news of Sparta and the Mani. Our campground info had been very useful, except that the camping at Glykovrissi has closed down and the Dutch-Swiss owners are emigrating to South Africa.

Phil & Jean came in for coffee and told their story (dreadful ferry to Cyprus; the fun of meeting their family for the wedding; their drive back from Athens via the Peloponnese; their new insight into life beyond wintering in Spain, where they keep a caravan at Port Mazarron, but already prefer Greece). M made 6 lbs marmalade using oranges from Krioneri Camping and lemons from the tree here, and tried (again without success) to rescue Alf from the Winter People's store. It seems only George has a key, is always out and has so far ignored our messages.

After lunch we walked to Aginara to see Mick & Flo and decided to move camp and join them once we'd retrieved Alf. With M & F in charge, Aginara is now much pleasanter (and much cheaper than Ionion, where they've gone upmarket and no longer have time to welcome winter guests - shame). We rang Travelbag to make sure Sasha had our letter (yes, new itinerary being sent to Gastouni).

In the evening Nick & Kathy came in again, bearing a box of After 8's to share - welcome! Their small campervan isn't too comfy for long dark evenings, they are on their way back to England to trade up to something bigger (via Xmas in Spain with her mother).

In Gastouni we collected the photos left last week, receiving lots of compliments and a gift of a 200-slot photo album. At the post, the Lonely Planet guide to S Africa had arrived, giving plenty to read. At the market, we met Mick & Flo with Cliff & Eileen, Hans & Inger, and Phil & Jean shopping as they left, on their way to Patras and Spain.

Back at Ionion, George was still out, but expected back for a family lunch (it's father's Name Day). We eventually got hold of him, retrieved Alf, paid for the 8 days and left mid-afternoon. He promised us a better rate if we returned for longer, but we won't be back!

We drove 2½ miles: down the lane to Glifa and back to Aginara Beach, where Mick helped us find a large level place with a sea view (no easy matter, here, involving some branch-sawing). We unloaded Alf, found his piston free to move and promised him some attention tomorrow. £3.77 inc elec.

Settled in, we wrote to Patrick & Felicity Phelan, who may be on their way out here; to Martin Watson, to send with a photo or 2 of col-riding, the C C list of mountain passes and other info on the French Alps for his book; and to Mum, to go with her birthday package. There are a few site cats here and 2 tiny tabby kittens which they seem to have abandoned. Of course, these soon had a bowl of milk and a box under our outside table.

After lunch, Nick & Kathy walked over from Ionion to inspect the site, meet Mick & Flo, have tea and biscuits and show us the photos they'd just had done in Gastouni with 'our man': their trip from Newcastle to Bergen on the ferry, up to Nordkapp and on to Greece via Sweden, Germany and Italy. All since July - we told them to slow down, they'll have nowhere left (only aged 37 and 40, and not intending to settle down again yet).

Alf was dusted down and found to have a flat battery (no surprise), so B put it on to charge overnight.

Alf's battery wouldn't take a charge so we cycled to Vartholomio in search of a new one. We got it, along with spare distilled water and oil for Rosie, at the car accessory shop next to the post office from a lovely old man with a splendid Balkan moustache and not a word of English. Also found an excellent new butcher's (pork for Sunday), and rode back the long way, via Loutras Kyllini and Arcoudi. We rang Mum and requested post to Gastouni, invited Mick & Flo to dinner tomorrow, and fitted Alf's new battery. He started almost straightaway! Unbelievable!

So, after lunch, he took us round the lanes for a fill of Super petrol, proving there was still plenty of life in him. A strange feeling, riding up the hill to the water tower without pedalling! In his back box we found our big gloves, helmets, tools, spare tube, etc. All he needs is a new shopping basket on the front, the old one just about rusted away.

Remembrance Day, though not observed in Greece as they weren't involved in WWI (and only briefly in WWII). We had a quiet moment at our notion of 11 am, did 2 loads of dhobi, cleaned and polished Alf and made a meal to eat with Mick & Flo - pork casserole, jacket spuds, apple & raisin crumble with thick Greek yoghurt, red wine. They stayed till late, a great evening.

A message on the phone from Alan, saying he now has Email and has sent us 2! We need to find an Internet cafe to read them. We had coffee and cake with Mick & Flo, then got down to sorting and numbering the new photos and selecting 200 for a Round-the-World album - no easy task. Another text message from the Swatman's, now at Parga, asking where we are. They're closing in on us!

Mick gave us typical Greek gifts - a large bunch of sweet green grapes and a carrier-bag of walnuts and almonds in their shells, all from the site. We responded with a pile of Caravan Club and other magazines and lent them some of our stock of videos.

In a strong, gusting wind, we rode Alf to Gastouni, his first major outing, to post Mum's birthday package. Mail was waiting from Travelbag and the CTC (S Africa touring notes, sent very quickly after our complaints, with a note saying that they were really really envious!) We called on Dionysus to order a few reprints and 3 enlargements, shopped at the small Dia and were about to return when it started to rain. We dived into 'The Break' for shelter and had toasted sandwiches and chips while waiting (less than the price of 2 coffees in France!) We rode back as soon as the rain eased, had coffee with Mick & Flo and sheltered in Rosie for the rest of the day, the weather turning very stormy again.

Sasha's itinerary from Travelbag didn't fit our request or answer our questions: frustrating.

M rang Travelbag, threatening to take our business elsewhere if they couldn't deliver, and spoke to a Manager, Jim Hooper. He found an extra problem with Sasha's proposal - it exceeded by 3,000 the 29,000 mile limit for a round-the-world fare! With his personal attention, new options were worked out, returning from Australia via Hawaii or Tahiti, and we agreed to consider them.

B put 200 selected photos of the round-the-world ride in the new album, now we just have to label them all.

After lunch we set out for a breezy walk with the kite, meeting Nick & Kathy on the beach (on their way to see us, with another Ionion Beach camper called Dennis). The 3 came with us along the beach to Arcoudi (Kathy somewhat reluctantly) and back along the lane, about 5 miles in all. The wind was strong enough to break a main spar in the kite - another job in waiting. We gave them coffee and biscuits and Nick & Kathy decided to move camp tomorrow, agreeing that Aginara is both friendlier and cheaper. What's happening at Ionion, we shall never know. We hope Dennis stays there, though!

Fine enough for cycling again, we rode to Gastouni, failed to find suitable doweling for the kite repair, bought potatoes and vegetables at the market and refused Cliff & Eileen's offer to carry our stuff back in their car (they thought we might not be able to get it up the hill!) We called to greet Jimmy, quiet as ever in his glass shop, but the woodman wasn't there (his workshop open and deserted as usual).

After lunch we worked on photo labelling until Nick & Kathy arrived to stay. The rest of the afternoon was spent showing them our album and looking at their latest prints of Greece. Another text message from the Swatman's, wanting to know more about Aginara - seems like they really are coming.

Settled weather, good for dhobi, baking and housework. We also rang Travelbag's manager back and agreed a proposed itinerary, which could even include an almost complimentary shuttle flight to/from Manchester Airport at either end. Now that could save a lot of driving and expense in getting to and from Heathrow via Thornton, but poses new problems: storage in Lancashire instead of Dorset, where to go for inoculations, etc. We asked him to put a confirming letter in the post to Gastouni, to give us time to work out our options!

Nick & Kathy came round for farewell drinks, biscuits and chat as they're moving north tomorrow, slowly making their way back to mainland Europe. That will simplify our social calendar!

A fine sunny day tempted Mick to uncover his immaculate Honda motorbike and we followed on Alf. In Gastouni we collected our photo reprints and enlargements (1 each for Oz, NZ and USA), then on to Amaliada, where the market has moved to a site above the town (upmarket?) by the stadium. It was bigger than the old street market but had lost some of its atmosphere. After buying veggies, we used the town shops to get a new zip for M's shorts which Flo has offered to mend, bought a phone card (much in demand of late) and treated all of us to lunch at the Pikantiko (under £10 for 4, with ouzo on the house!). We called at Dia and Lidl as we left Amaliada and paused in Vartholomio to shop for Mick's BBQ tomorrow. That's what we call a day's shopping!

Back home, we enjoyed Flo's coffee with Margaret's gingerbread and showed them our photo enlargements. We looked through the C C mags for storage in the North-west and rang a couple, without success (full, not in, ansaphone, etc).

M rang round the indoor storage places again, with slightly more success - on a waiting list at Kirkham plus a possibility at St Michael's ('ring again when my son is home'). Wish they knew how difficult and expensive it is to phone from Greece!

B and his mole-wrench managed to shell 6 oz of walnuts and we made a delicious walnut pie (like American pecan pie) in the microwave, while Mick persuaded the charcoal to light under his first time out the box, £2 car boot sale bargain BBQ.

At last all was ready and 6 of us (Cliff & Eileen too) tucked into grilled spare rib chops, Greek salads and spuds, followed by fruit, cake, yoghurt, walnut pie and cream, all supported by Dia's best red wine. After clearing up, we moved into the new awning tent for coffee as the sun went down. Eileen (a school cook for 40 years) praised M's pastry and asked for her recipe! The secret is to use partly Flora white fat which is over 12 months past its sell-by date but we didn't tell her!

Down to Gastouni on Alf to collect a packet of post from Mum and Alan. Our enquiries for an Internet place had drawn a blank until today when we heard of a new one in Vartholomio and found it on our way back - 4 games machines and 2 more machines connected to the World Wide Web, with no-one there but the owner. We had to admire his optimism! We logged on to Hotmail, hoping to read Alan's Emails plus any others waiting, only to find that we'd been de-activated (this is automatic if the site is unused for more than 45 days - but news to us!). Barry managed to reinstate our site, but any unread mail was lost and we didn't even have Alan's Email address to reply to. While there, we surfed the Net for an hour or more, tracking down UK stockists and prices for a few bicycle spares we'll need (new saddle and pannier bags for M, 4 Schwalbe Expedition tyres). This was successful, while a site called 'www.caravanstorage' was a complete waste of time (only 2 in the NW of England, both outdoor).

Back home, we went through the mail, sorting and filing. We had letters from Mum, Jeff Mason (with a couple of photos taken when we visited in July), and Maureen in Matlock. There was a colourful and very useful reply from the CTC's USA contact, Campbell Clapp in San Francisco, and a letter from the cycling-author, Ann Mustoe. She's just had to return abruptly from a ride to Egypt, turned back in Turkey on Foreign Office advice. We wonder how Richard & Penny, the tandemists last seen in Kalambaka, are making out. We checked on their website this morning, and found it was last updated in Alexandroupoli where they were waiting for mail and spares before going into Turkey. They mentioned our meeting and said they were 'humbled' by our experiences, especially for a couple 'in their fifties' - Barry was suitably pleased to lose a decade!

'We're coming to CU. R there washing machines?' was the latest text message from the Swatman's. They are in Preveza and ask if it is worth visiting the islands of Zakynthos and Kefalonia on the way. Yes, is the answer. Of course it is.

The weather turned wet and stormy again in the evening, it's very unsettled.

B sorted photos and copies to send to friends, read, serviced Alf, looked for a black water disposal point (to put it mildly) and reorganised a toolbox, while M had a long session updating the neglected travel-log diary and did some housework. Flo, a very patient and keen needlewoman, kindly put a new zip in M's navy shorts. Windy and showery, autumn is settling in, though it's still 70°F inside with the door open and without any heating. The campground is quiet despite the owner, Jorgo, returning from Austria; everyone seems to be in hibernation until the sea goes down again.

It's really good living just a few yards from a sea that is habitually calm, but sometimes works itself up into a towering rage, for no good reason, crashing on the beach, reaching for our door. It began roaring and blowing wildly after dinner, just before M set out for the phonebox to wish Mum a happy birthday. Neither landlines nor the mobile could compete with the storm, so after a few shouted exchanges of 'Can you hear me?' we had to give up.

The wind had calmed enough for motorbiking, if not cycling, so we Alfed it to Gastouni and Amaliada to stock up on bread, food and phonecards. Posting the letter and photos to Andrew Watson, we found the final letter from Travelbag had arrived with the proposed itinerary and fare.

Back home for lunch, perusal of T'bag's offer and a phone call to their Jim Hooper to confirm our second round-the-world ticket, subject to the addition of an internal flight from Los Angeles to San Francisco (included in the mileage and therefore the price - great). Campbell Clapp had strongly advised against riding north up the Pacific coast, due to the prevailing wind.

We also phoned several more storage places, following leads from Todds, the Caravan Club, the Caravan Storage Association (but not from Madisons-Hymer, who were most unhelpful). We managed to reach the 'waiting list' for another one at Blackburn, and got the same response from the possible farm at St Michael's ('ring again when my son, Adam, is here'). Another attempt to ring Mum reached the ansaphone.

Fine enough to cycle again, the familiar road and hills to Gastouni to post a large cheque to Travelbag, the first one drawn on the new account transferred from Jersey. The recent storm had brought trees and branches down and people were out in the fields and olive groves clearing up. Back at base-camp, we turned our attention from flights to ferries. M rang Blue Star to check sailing dates to Ancona in January, and the Motorhome Ticket Club to fix the ferry to Portsmouth. This ran into the predictable problem about using the return after 31 December, M referred them to our letter to P&O and its reply and they promised to check it out and ring back. We shall NEVER book a return with them again!

Stan sent a text message that they are approaching Perth, having driven round from Darwin via Broome (the only road). All is going well, they'll probably spend time with friends there and return to Dave's for Xmas.

Finally got to talk to Mum, thanked her for the post and asked for some more (the US maps and a packet of suet for the Xmas baking). She sounded well, the cataract problems seem to be over (after a year of suffering) and Uncle Harold had been to stay. She's going there for New Year, before we arrive, DV.

A new storm began raging in the night, this time with the wind directly off the sea. We put the awning in and moved Alf and the cycles behind, in the shelter of Rosie and the hedge.

We finally managed to talk to Adam's father, Cliff, at St Michael's (Turnover Hall Farm) and hopefully solved our indoor storage problem. They promised secure storage with concrete floor 'in the workshop or the potato shed'. We were reassured on learning they have a Caravan Club CL, listed in our book. M also rang the Motorhome Ticket Club again, and was given permission to cross the Channel from Le Havre in January without any surcharge, and replied to a message from Travelbag asking the dimensions of the bicycles. (Hope they'll go through the Manchester-Heathrow shuttle cargo door!) A few pieces have at last fitted in our jigsaw!

Inspired by this success, we wrote a pile of letters to forward our endless arrangements: to confirm the Lancashire storage; cancel the Dorset storage and camping at Willingham; transfer money to the new account; notify Comfort and Norwich Union to make sure Rosie and Heaton Rd remain insured in our absence; take out travel insurance with Endsleigh; get tourist info on South Africa and, finally, sent Anne-Marie & Duncan at Slope Point (NZ's southernmost accommodation) a copy of our recommendation in the Rough News, along with a couple of photos.

As the rain eased in the afternoon, we took a break from the word processor for a walk up the lane with Mick & Flo after they came in for coffee. The stream was flowing high and fast and we spotted a kingfisher.

Another wet stormy morning deterred us all from the Amaliada market run. Instead we wrote a 2-page end-of-year letter. More accurately, Barry wrote while M was busy as a reference library, checking out names, dates, distances and places from the maps, log-books and photos.

We also defrosted the freezer, did a pile of mending, emptied and filled the various tanks, made a carrot cake and phoned Visas Australia Ltd to check on progress (passports still at the embassy).

Tired of wondering when/if the Swatman's were coming to see us, we texted them that we might leave on Monday, weather permitting.

A bright, clear, sunny morning with a cold north wind, ideal for a Sunday morning ride. Round by Loutras Kyllini, past the sulphur springs and a good climb to Chlemoutsi Castle through the ripening lemon groves, pausing to pick a few. The road had been improved with EU money as far as Kastro village, though the steep lane up to the castle was as narrow and rough as ever. The restoration of the vast Frankish fortress continues (those lads have a job for life!) and we wandered inside. There is now a smart new ticket office, complete with woman inside, her nose buried in a magazine (entry free on Sundays) - nice work! Access to the rooftop and walls has been closed off since our last visit, for safety. The view across the strait to Zakynthos was very clear after the recent rains. We extended the ride, sweeping down to Kyllini's little harbour (now boasting a bank machine and an internet cafe nearby), then returned the same way, climbing up to Kastro then freewheeling home. Dark clouds gathered overhead but just a few drops of rain.

After lunch we reviewed the round-the-world account, making a few additions and improvements (adding about 600 words), ready for copying to send out with the end-of-year letter, and printed the labels from our mailing list. Two text messages came - the Swatman's are arriving tomorrow, and Stan is in Perth. He warned us about the hurricane season in Darwin (obviously not yet received our letter with the change of plan in it).

The late film on 'Mega' was 'Notting Hill', which one of us enjoyed while the other went to bed!

Vartholomio market was a delight - smaller and cosier than Gastouni's, filling a side street with stalls of produce, a gypsy child hawking live chickens about (carried upside down by the feet), a barrow-vendor with lollipops, nuts and snacks, a fish stall offering freshly grilled sardines to try on the side, a row of tiny piglets lined up in the back of a pick-up. What a contrast our next stop made, the Internet shop to check our Email (empty apart from a small boy playing video games). We leant our bikes next to his little fairy cycle and got stuck in, our visit limited to an hour by the absence of both coffee and toilet! We had a nice message from Alan (through at the 3rd attempt) and also from Patrick & Felicity Phelan, sadly saying they won't be coming out until March so we'll miss them. And a strange nonsense from the Valentzas. We also surfed the Net for a few more cycle shops, travel info, etc. The site for Biketheworld, the Austrians we'd met in Texas, had ended abruptly in October in Japan, which sounded horrendous (we did warn them, after reading Josie Dew's book). Most likely they gave up and returned home.

Back to base for a late lunch, where Glen & Steve Swatman had just arrived followed by another English couple in a Hymer, Julie & Oz. The Swatman's, met in March 1998 on our way from Greece to Sicily, came in for an afternoon of catching up and comparing impressions of Australia and New Zealand, both of which they'd toured by exchanging motorhomes. They stayed for dinner but brought the wine (Steve drinking enough for both of them, Glen having been forced to give up alcohol 'for health reasons'). We hope it's a short visit!

A fine dry day, we had coffee and showed photos in the Swatman's 'Ultra', then took them and the kite along the beach to Glifa harbour. After lunch, we chatted with Mick & Flo (or Ebb & Flo as they are affectionately known) and updated the travel-log before being summoned for tea with Glen & Steve. Later, Julie & Oz joined us, bringing cans of beer (so that's what you drink with egg & chips) and talking of playing Ludo. We left as soon and as politely as possible - not our kind of party.

We put some dhobi in the world's slowest washing machine (1½ hours) and rode Alf to Gastouni to shop and collect the mail (Travelbag's latest itinerary). On our return, the Swatman's had got a text message from another pair of nomads, last met just before us and now on their way from Patras, who claim to have been full-timing for 10 years and only stayed once on a campsite. Glen asked if we knew a place for free-camping nearby and if we minded if they left to join them. Answer - yes and most definitely not. In fact we were delighted to lead them and the Hymer to Loutras Kyllini on Alf, even though it began to pour down. We continued over the Kastro to Kyllini to check out the Internet Cafe we'd spotted there but it only had 2 machines, both occupied by mates of the barman, playing video games, and no printer. We returned as wet as the washing we'd left on the line, but a change of clothes and a sausage & bacon casserole soon warmed us through and we watched 'The Scarlet Pimpernel' in peace.

Another storm has passed, leaving a blustery showery day. We washed yesterday's mud off Alf, did a few cleaning jobs, updated accounts and travel-log. Most excitingly, we designed a new Twice-Round-the-World address card featuring a globe, 2 cycles and 2 planes using a colour inkjet cartridge for the first time - great fun. Barry also made a Campingplatzführer kit for Mick (a card displaying the rules and a badge - another use for a spent phonecard!)

After lunch we had them over for coffee, presented Mick with these and gave Flo a bottle of wine for sewing M's zip, which went down well (neither of them like anything sweet).

Discussing when to move on to Sparta for some mountain riding, much postponed by wind and weather, we realised that we'd already been at Aginara for 23 nights. After paying for 24 nights, the next 6 are free, so decided to stay until Saturday, 8 December, to benefit from this. As it's still very unsettled weather and we've plenty of end-of-year letters to write and Xmas baking to do, we'll have a good working week. B began on the bicycles, overhauling them ready for next year, by stripping and cleaning the derailleurs and chains.

Eileen asked if we had any Dia plastic carrier-bags she could have: a strange request. M sorted a few from those we keep for the pedal bin and took them over to the caravan, to be shown the secrets of making them into mats, beach-bags, peg-bags, toaster covers, whatever! Each plastic bag has to be folded and cut in a special way to produce a continuous strip which can then be crocheted. The finished articles look like raffia work, the colours depending on the bags (Tesco ones make white with red and blue flecks, Morrisons have black and yellow flecks, etc. Dia are a nice red and white, and she'd run out part-way through making a cover for the tow-hitch! Flo had been initiated into the rites last winter but said it made her fingers sore.

A poor weather forecast for the next 3 days and rain in the night, it's been an unusually wintery month after a splendid October, the snow coming very early on the mountains.

TV and Radio channels, as well as Rupert Murdoch's 'Sky'). M had another coffee with Mick & Flo, on calling round to pay for the marzipan. If we stay here much longer we'll suffer a caffeine overdose.

More jobs followed: Alf was washed, the cake was marzipanned, diary and accounts updated, home-made burgers cooked.