ISLAND INTERLUDE

Climbing in the Cuillin Mountains on the Isle of Skye

Barry Williamson

Climbers regard the Cuillin Mountains in the Isle of Skye as their Mecca. There is little scope for dancing, but some have been known to face the rock and pray.

The rock is Gabbro, igneous in origin and very rough. The average life of a pair of trousers is said to be six days. The main difficulties lie in the weather (wet), the names of the mountains (Gaelic) and the opening hours (short).

During Easter, Charlie and I were lucky enough to find that it was not raining when we reached the foot of the Western Buttress of Sron Na Ciche, about 1,500 feet above our camp on the beach in Glen Brittle. Our aim was the Median Route, which gives 1,400 feet of climbing onto a spur that comes down from the main ridge.

We located the start of the climb above the screes, tied on the rope, and started. Leading out the rope up a narrow crack in the rock, Charlie climbed about 60 feet until he was stopped by a slightly overhanging section. At times like this, confidence is required to tackle a hard move; the rope gives no protection; not yet warmed up, the climber moves awkwardly, and the ground feels to be a long way down. Continuing for a further 50 feet, he tied himself to a chock stone jammed in a crack and took in the rope as I climbed up to him.

Taking over the lead, I found the second pitch easier. The leading climber is now protected by the rope, since the distance he can fall is limited to twice his height above the second man, who remains tied on below. In about 60 feet I came to a suitable flake of rock, tied on and brought up Charlie who continued as before.

So the climb went on, turn and turn about, over slabs, up cracks and chimneys, along ledges. The rock was steep, and the increasing height added spice to the climbing, as well as giving excellent views over the Atlantic to the Islands of Rum and Eigg and the Outer Hebrides.

The top was reached in nineteen pitches, which took about three hours. Pausing only for a celebration packet of dates, we found our way down the ridge to our beach camp for the usual two-course dinner: Irish stew and creamed rice.