Greece: The Earthquake Zone

Barry and Margaret Williamson

Methoni, Messinia, Greek Peloponnese,

Winter 2007/8

Greece is the most seismologically active country in Europe, with a long history of destructive earthquakes. At Ancient Olympia, columns still lie where they fell, sliced like a banana. More recently, in 1986 a Richter 6 earthquake hit Kalamata (30 miles from here), leaving 20 dead, hundreds injured and 10,000 buildings destroyed. A greater loss of life was avoided because many people were down by the harbour, at a festival.

In 1999 a Richter 5.9 'quake killed 143 in Athens. However, the most deadly in living memory was in 1953, when a 7.2 quake hit the holiday island of Zakynthos, killing 455 (perhaps inspiring the earthquake described in the book 'Captain Corelli's Mandolin', set in neighbouring Kefallonia). We are told that for the last 40 years all new buildings must be earthquake-proof, and hope this claim is not on shaky ground! In fact, the high death rate in Athens in '99 was caused by faults in buildings which had been approved as 'safe'.

What is happening to cause this quaking of the earth? It seems that the Africa Plate is slowly edging its way towards Europe, creeping along and hoping not to be noticed. Greece, xenophobic as ever, is trying in vain to stop it and shaking with the effort.

Epiphany (6 January) is also a religious holiday in Greece. In our nearby tiny fishing port of Finikounda, the faithful gathered in the church at 8 am for the Wave Blessing service (said to commemorate Christ's baptism, when the waters of the River Jordan were stilled). At 7.14 that morning, we were rocked in our beds by an earthquake measuring 6.5 on the Richter Scale, its epicentre in the sea just off Leonidio in the SE Peloponnese. It was apparently felt in Athens and as far away as southern Italy, but luckily caused little damage due to its depth, 50 miles (80 km) below sea level. A minor tremor had occurred off the island of Zakynthos a few days earlier.

Next year, the priest is adding a prayer to calm the land as well as the sea.

The month of February 2008 was punctuated by a series of earthquakes in the Peloponnese. We slept through the first pair (Richter 5.4 and 5.5), which rattled Patras during the night of 4/5 February.

The second pair, at about noon and 2.15 pm on St Valentine's Day, were stronger (6.5 and 6.4) with their epicentre below the sea just 26 km/16 miles south of Methoni. These quakes were felt in Italy and Egypt. We hadn't felt the first quake at all as we cycled the route between Iamia and Mistraki. The bicycles already shook from their movement over rough ground. In Finikounda, the mini-market floor was sticky from smashed honey jars, while at our friend John's house, up above Mistraki, some of the many books tumbled from their shelves. We were sitting in the garden there enjoying lunch when the second tremor shook the stone walls and the table. 'Un tremblement de terre?' asked their French-Canadian guests in surprise. Others attributed the shaking to Barry's discussion of the work of Richard Dawkins.

A smaller tremor (4.6) followed the same evening.

Next morning the local TV news showed cracks and broken windows in older property in Methoni and Koroni. Many schools had closed for safety checks. We saw no obvious damage though – Methoni's splendid castle is in about the same state of ruin as before! The 'Athens News' reported 'Strong Quakes Strike Southern Greece', fortunately without casualties.

A sixth earthquake (we're beginning to lose count!) shook our motorhome on the evening of 20 February, its epicentre again out at sea off Methoni, Richter 6.1. As February drew to a close, there was almost one tremor a day

Given their inheritance from Ancient Greece, the locals have established the following debating positions: Thesis: This is the end of a cycle of quakes. Antithesis: This is the beginning of the Big One! We are in favour of Synthesis where opposites are reconciled and Poseidon goes back to sleep.