A Cyclist's Guide

Barry and Margaret Williamson
Updated February 2015 

To be read in conjunction with our: Fourteen Cycle Rides in the Welsh Borders

The Ceiriog, the fastest flowing river in Wales, tumbles out of the Berwyn Mountains and gouges a valley through green wooded uplands as it winds for 22 miles before joining the River Dee. Known as the Valley of Poets (the Memorial Institute in Glyn Ceiriog is dedicated to the poet John Ceiriog Hughes), the Ceiriog Valley was described by David Lloyd George as "a little bit of heaven on earth", which we feel is still true today – especially for the keen cyclist.

CHIRK: 390 ft N52°55.89' W3°03.34'

The small town of Chirk guards the entrance to the Ceiriog Valley. Just off the A5 and with rail and canal links, Chirk is truly the gateway to the valley that runs high into the Berwyn Mountains.

The town is very close to the English border but, though often occupied by the English, it has always been in Wales. The prominent border castle was built by Roger Mortimer in 1310. This substantial castle with its historic park and gardens is now a National Trust property, open during the summer months. The line of Offa's Dyke, reputedly built by King Offa in about 790 AD, runs north to south across the castle grounds. It originally stood some 20 ft high for a length of 168 miles to mark the boundary between Wales and England.

Chirk itself is situated on the old turnpike road from London to Holyhead, which carried the Irish Mail by stagecoach. This road, formerly the A5 and now the B5070, was the historic route created by Thomas Telford, the great 18th century engineer. He also designed the Chirk Aqueduct, a magnificent yellow sandstone structure whose 10 symmetrical arches carry the Llangollen branch of the Shropshire Union Canal across the River Ceiriog (completed in 1801).

A narrow-gauge horse-drawn tramway was built from Chirk in 1870, linking the canal to the quarries and slate mines at Glyn Ceiriog. The Glyn Valley Tramway was converted to steam in 1888, re-routed to link with the main line railway at Chirk Station and extended to Hendre granite quarry, making a total length of 8 miles. It carried slate, silica, chinastone and dolerite (granite) downstream, returning with coal, flour and other commodities. Passenger facilities were also provided, though it took an hour to cover the 6 miles from Glyn Ceiriog to Chirk at a cost of 8 old pence (3p). The line was closed to passengers in 1933 and to all traffic 2 years later. The bed of the tramway is still visible in various places, including Chirk Station just behind the Chester platform.

The Glyn Valley Tramway Group have restored the little waiting room at Pontfadog (freely open April-Oct 10 am-4pm) and they have a museum of photographs in the Glyn Valley Hotel, Glyn Ceiriog. A short section of the former Tramway (signposted) can be walked or cycled as part of any ride from Glyn Ceiriog towards Llanarmon: after passing Ddol Hir Camping, look out for a left turn onto a mile of level bridleway along the river, which bypasses Pandy before rejoining the B4500 near a pony-trekking centre. An information board tells of the tramway's history, serving slate and granite quarries in the valley.

Access by Rail

Chirk Station is situated approximately half a mile from the town centre. Trains run northward to Ruabon, Wrexham and Chester, with connections to Holyhead, Liverpool, Manchester and Crewe. Southbound trains run to Shrewsbury (with connections to Crewe, Cardiff and mid-Wales), Telford, Wolverhampton and Birmingham. The station has free parking for up to 30 vehicles.

Trains from Chester or Birmingham to Chirk will carry bicycles free of charge, though space is limited and should be booked at least 24 hours ahead. Ring 'Arriva': 08456-061660 or National Rail Enquiries: 08457-484950. More information on www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk.

Buses from Oswestry (route 60), Llangollen (64) and Wrexham (65) go through Chirk and along the Ceiriog Valley. Bus stops are close to Chirk War Memorial or the railway station. However, they do not carry bicycles.

The A483/A5 Wrexham-Oswestry trunk road bypasses Chirk. Oswestry is 7 miles south, Wrexham 10 miles north and Llangollen 5 miles west.

Free parking for approximately 100 cars is available in the town centre car park, where toilet facilities are located. Note that a small market is held in the car park on Saturday morning.

A new leisure centre and indoor swimming pool is situated in Chapel Lane, near the public library (with free internet facilities). A marina is situated off the canal at Whitehurst, near the golf course, about half a mile from the town.

There is a vet, a doctors' surgery, a small police station and a Community Hospital (major hospital facilities are at Wrexham and Gobowen).

The 15th century St Mary's church is freely open.

The town has 2 Co-operative supermarkets, a bakery, excellent butcher's, pharmacy, HSBC bank with ATM, post office, hairdresser's, estate agent's and a clothing/gift shop (which doubles as Tourist Info).

In addition to pubs, there are 2 cafés. Also Chirk Tandoori (highly recommended Indian restaurant/take-away) and Chirk Fisheries (fish & chips).

The Berwyn (bed & breakfast): 01691-772698.

The Hand Hotel: 01691-773472, www.handhotelchirk.co.uk.

Dunroamin (bed & breakfast): 01691-772977.

For Caravan Club Members, Lady Margaret's Park is located about half a mile beyond the rail station, adjacent to Chirk Castle. (Caravans, campervans and motorhomes only – no tents!): 01691-777200.

Full details from Wrexham Tourist Information Centre: 01978-292015, www.wrexham.gov.uk.

In Chirk, visit the Tourist Information Point at 'Ceiriog Home and Wear', opposite the Hand Hotel.

Information and bus timetables are also available at Chirk Library on Chapel Lane: 01691-772344. Open 9.00-6.00 on Mon & Fri, 2.00-5.30 on Tues, Wed & Thurs.

Several campsites serve the Valley. The short name (in brackets) is our waypoint name on the route maps:

(CC Camp) Lady Margaret's Park at CHIRK Castle (Caravan Club Site – Members only, no tents). Tel 01691-777200. www.caravanclub.co.uk

(Quinta) Quinta Christian Centre, Weston Rhyn, 1 mile SW of CHIRK (Caravan Club CL – Members only). Tel 01691-773696. www.quinta.org

(HaltonFm) Halton Farm, 1.5 miles NE of CHIRK (Caravan Club CL – Members only). Tel 01691-772401.

(StabCamp) Stabl y Ddol, on the B4500 from Chirk less than a mile before PONTFADOG (Camping & Caravanning Club CS). Tel Huw Edwards on 01691-718846 or 07974- 828124. www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk

(DdolHir) Ddol Hir Caravan Park, Pandy Road, GLYN CEIRIOG. (Camping & Caravanning Club listed – Open to all). Tel 01691-718681.

Pontfadog (Pontfadg): 445 ft

A hamlet in the Ceiriog Valley between Chirk and Glyn Ceiriog.

Accommodation: B&B at Pontfadog Post Office: 01691-718244.

Meals: The Swan Inn: 01691-718273 (13thC pub/restaurant).

Shops, Repairs & Services: Post office/grocery store, garage (but no petrol), phone box.

Dolywern (Dolywern): 490 ft

A hamlet in the Ceiriog Valley between Pontfadog and Glyn Ceiriog.

Accommodation/Meals: Golden Pheasant Country Hotel, just across the river at Llwynmawr: 01691-718281. www.goldenpheasanthotel.co.uk.

Glyn Ceiriog (GlynCeir): 595 ft

Accommodation/Meals: Glyn Valley Hotel: 01691-718896.

B&B: Upper Mills Trout Farm: 01691-718225. www.trout-farm.co.uk.

Mansion House: 01691-718963.

Fron Frys: 01691-718880. www.fronfrys.co.uk.

Refreshment: Christian Café.

Mobile caterer visits on Fridays (5–9 pm), serving fish & chips, burgers, kebabs.

Shops, Repairs & Services: Spar Store, Pharmacy, HSBC Bank with ATM, post office, public toilets, phone box.

Pandy (Pandy): 670 ft

A hamlet in the Ceiriog Valley between Glyn Ceiriog and Llanarmon.

Accommodation: Erw Gerrig self-contained country cottages:

01691-718596. www.northwalescottages.com.

Refreshment: The former Woolpack Inn is now a glass-artist's studio and tea-room, open weekends only.

Tregeiriog (Tregeiro): 850 ft

A hamlet in the Ceiriog Valley between Pandy and Llanarmon.

Accommodation, Refreshment, Shops, Repairs & Services: None.

Llanarmon DC (Dyffryn Ceiriog) (Llanarmn): 885 ft

A hamlet at the head of the Ceiriog Valley, with 4 roads leading out over the mountains. Its name means 'the church (Llan) of Germanus (Armon) in the Vale (Dyffryn) of the Ceiriog'. The ancient yews in the churchyard mark a site that has been sacred since the 5th century, though the present church has been rebuilt many times.

Accommodation/Meals: A pair of fine 16thC drovers' inns -

The Hand Hotel (excellent lunches, or coffee with home-made biscuits): 01691-600666. www.thehandhotel.co.uk.

The West Arms Hotel (with Riverside Gardens behind): 01691-600665. www.thewestarms.co.uk.

Shops, Repairs & Services: Public toilets, phone box.

Bronygarth (Bronygth): 705 ft

A village on a hillside on the southern edge of the Ceiriog Valley, 2 miles west of Chirk.

Accommodation, Refreshment, Shops, Repairs & Services: None.

Corwen (Corwen): 450 ft

A small town on the A5 by the River Dee, 11 miles west of Llangollen. Accessed from the Ceiriog Valley via the Wayfarers' Pass over the Berwyns.

Accommodation: A range of hotel, B&B or self-catering available. Book through Llangollen Tourist Info: 01978-860828. www.nwtic.com.

Camping: Carrog Station Camp Site, Carrog, Corwen: 01490-430347. www.stationcampsite.com. (East of Corwen on the Dee. A steam train ride from Llangollen.)

Gaer Hyfryd Caravan Club site, Plas Isaf (members only, no tents): 01490-412189. www.caravanclub.co.uk. (2.5 miles west of Corwen.)

Refreshment and Meals: Café and pub.

Shops, Repairs & Services: Several shops, post office, HSBC bank, police, phone box.

Glyndyfrdwy (Glyndufr): 500 ft

A village on the A5 by the River Dee, between Corwen and Llangollen. Accessed from the Ceiriog Valley via the Nantyr Forest over the Berwyns.

Refreshment: Pub.

Shops, Repairs & Services: Post office/store, phone box.

Llangadwaladr (Langadwd): 850 ft

A tiny hamlet and church, up in the hills between Llanarmon and Llansillin.

Accommodation, Refreshment, Shops, Repairs & Services: None. (At the time of our visit, the phone box was out of order.)

Llangollen (Llangoln): 330 ft

Pleasant town on the A5 by the River Dee, at the head of the Llangollen Canal. It is very popular with summer tourists, attracted by narrow boat trips and steam train rides, museums, the ruins of Dinas Bran Castle and Valle Crucis Abbey, and the scenic Dee Valley. Especially busy during the annual International Music Eisteddfod in July.

Accommodation: A full range of hotel, B&B, guesthouses, self-catering and camping is available. Llangollen Tourist Information on Castle Street has full details and offers a bed booking service: 01978-860828. www.nwtic.com

Meals/Refreshment: Plenty of choice in the town, with cafes, restaurants (including an Indian) and pubs.

For canal-side refreshments, there is a busy tea-rooms at Llangollen Wharf (by the stables for horse-drawn narrow-boat rides). Also the Chain Bridge Hotel at Llantysilio is along the canal towards Horseshoe Falls.

The tea-room in the gardens at Plas Newydd (the 18thC home of the Ladies of Llangollen) is accessible without paying the admission price for the house (open April-Oct 10 am-5 pm).

Shops, Repairs & Services: A good range of small shops, post office, etc.

Pro Adventure at 23 Castle Street is a well-equipped outdoor shop, stocking maps, books and equipment for cyclists, campers, kayakers, walkers and climbers. They also hire mountain bikes and kayaks. 01978-860605. www.northwalesbikehire.co.uk.

Llangynog (*** details needed)

A village on the southern edge of the Berwyn Mountains, on the Tanat River. Near Pennant Melangell, the delightfully restored pilgrimage church dedicated to the 7thC Celtic Saint Melangell. (William Morgan of Llanrhaedr ym Mochnant, famous for translating the Bible into Welsh, was once Rector at Melangell.)

Accommodation: Henstent Caravan Park (March-Oct). 01691-860479. www.homepage.mac.com/henstent.

Meals/Refreshment: 2 pubs.

Shops, Repairs & Services: Car park with picnic tables and toilets.

Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant (LlanR YM): 310 ft

A village at the head of the Tanat Valley, with access to Pistyll Rhaeadr Waterfall.

Setting for the delightful film 'The Englishman who went up a hill but came down a mountain' made in 1995, with Hugh Grant and Huw Griffiths.

Accommodation: Possibly B&B (ask at the Post Office).

Meals and Refreshment: The Handi Pub/Café.

Shops, Repairs & Services: Grocery shop, post office/store, HSBC bank, phone box, public toilets.

Llansillin (Lansiln): 680 ft

A village SW of Oswestry, SE of Llanarmon.

Accommodation/Meals: Pub.

Refreshment: Tea-room inside the beautiful old Parish Church.

Oswestry (Oswestry): 370 ft

A historic border town in Shropshire (England), 7 miles south of Chirk along the A5.

The Old Hill Fort dates from abut 300 BC and legend has it as the birthplace of King Arthur's queen, Guinevere. The name 'Oswald's Tree' refers to Oswald, King of Northumbria, slain here in 642 by Penda, King of Mercia, who hung his dismembered body from a tree.

The Visitor Information Centre/café is at the Oswestry Heritage Centre, situated in the old Grammar School (founded 1407), on Church Terrace behind St Oswald's Parish Church. They do stock the free National Cycle Network leaflets (ask, they're not on display!) 01691-662753. www.shropshiretourism.info and www.oswestry-welshborders.org.uk.

Tourist information is also available at the free Cambrian Visitor Centre/transport museum/cafe in the former Railway Station on Oswald Road, near the bus station (for buses to Chirk, Glyn Ceiriog and Llanarmon). 01691-655111. www.cambrian-visitor-centre.co.uk.

Accommodation/Meals: For a selection of inns, pubs, B&B, etc contact the Visitor Information Centre.

Camping: The Camping and Caravanning Club's new Oswestry site is not very convenient, being about 10 miles down the A5 towards Shrewsbury, near the village of Knockin. 01743-741118. www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk.

Refreshment: Plenty of cycle-friendly cafes with outdoor tables. We liked 'The George' pub on the corner of the Bailey and the Market Square, with good meal deals to eat inside or out.

Shops, Repairs & Services: The major local market town (markets Wed and Sat), it has the widest range of shops in the area, including supermarkets (Aldi, Iceland, Sainsbury's, Somerfield), Argos, WH Smith, Wilkinsons and Woolworths. There are banks and a post office, public toilets and phone boxes.

Car and van hire is available at Bridge Service Station on Gobowen Road, though they no longer hire bicycles (despite being listed for cycle hire on National Cycle Network's cycle map 9, for Regional Route 31: Oswestry-Ellesmere-Whitchurch).

Pen-y-bont-fawr (Penybont): 445 ft

A village on the Tanat River and on the main Bala road.

Accommodation/Meals: Pub.

Shops, Repairs & Services: Phone box.

Rhydycroesau (RhydyCro): 825 ft

Services: None.

Selattyn (Selattyn): 780 ft

Services: None.

Trevor Canal Basin (Trevor): 490 ft

On the canal between Chirk and Llangollen, at the northern end of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, near the town of Trevor.

Refreshment: Café at the Anglo-Welsh Narrowboat hire depot (seasonal). 01978-821749.

Shops, Repairs & Services: Small shop at the Anglo-Welsh Narrowboat depot.

Waterways Museum with gift shop (free entry - seasonal). Car park and public toilets.

Waterfall Pistyll Rhaeadr (Wfall1): 1055 ft

One of the 'Seven Wonders of Wales', the highest waterfall in the country, near Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant. It is privately owned but accessible on foot from the nearby car park/café/campsite at Tan-y-Pistyll. www.pistyllrhaeadr.co.uk.

Accommodation: Tan-y-Pistyll has a self-catering cottage or B&B accommodation, at a price. There is also a small quiet campsite retreat, for those who have paid an annual membership fee. The owner, Phil Facey, will accept non-members who are 'genuine cycle-tourists' for an overnight camping fee. Ring ahead on 01691-780392 to arrange.

Refreshment: Licensed restaurant/café at Tan-y-Pistyll (see above).

Shops, Repairs & Services: Car park with public toilets and phone box.