Cyprus: Travel Notes for Motorhomers

The following notes (taken from our experience, that of MMM Travel Consultant Don Madge and jottings from Google), are designed for motorhomers and others planning to visit Northern Cyprus by ferry from the port of Tasucu on the Turkish mainland. They also cover the tricky business of crossing into and back from Southern Cyprus - all with or without the motorhome and with or without a hire car instead! All these problems, plus a major bureaucratic error with our passport, caused us not to make the crossing: instead, we spent more time in eastern Anatolia and the Black Sea Coast of Turkey - all new ground for us.

For more information about our journey, click: Travels in Turkey 2008.

For many images of that journey, including images of the ferry boats used on the Tasucu-Girne route, click: Images of Turkey 2008.

The North-South border has been open to EU and US citizens and all residents of Cyprus since 2003. Note that Turks are not allowed to cross into Southern Cyprus; other non-EU passport holders should check their position.

1. Agios Dometios or Metehan (Nicosia)

This is considered the main crossing point between the two sides of Cyprus, due to the sheer volume of people who cross at this checkpoint. It is located in Nicosia and it is a checkpoint that handles the crossing of pedestrians, cyclists, vehicles and goods.

2. Black Knight (British Eastern Sovereign Base Area)

Also known as the Agios Nikolaos, Strovilia or Akyar crossing, it is one of the two crossing points that are located in the British Eastern Sovereign Base Area. This crossing point allows for the movement of pedestrians, vehicles and goods across the border in either direction.

3. Pergamos (British Eastern Sovereign Base Area)

This is one of the two checkpoints located in the British Eastern Sovereign Base Area. It is also known as Beyarmudu or Dhekelia. It can be used for the crossing of pedestrians, vehicles and goods.

4. Zohdia (Gόzelyurt)

This crossing point may also be known as Astromeritis, Morpho, Morfu, Gόzelyurt, Omorfo or Morfou. Located to the west of Nicosia, it was the last checkpoint to be opened. This checkpoint allows for the crossing of pedestrians, vehicles and goods.

5. Ledra Palace/Palas (Nicosia)

This crossing point is strictly for pedestrians and cyclists. However, it is also used as a crossing point for diplomatic vehicles.

Note: In many cases these checkpoints have more than one name because they use the English, Greek and Turkish names, along with the names of the region or neighbouring villages.

You may rent a car in the South and cross over into the North. On the other hand, if you rent a car in the North, you are NOT allowed to drive it into the South. Only personally-owned vehicles can cross over to the South (basically, a car that is not a rental car or is not displaying the rental licence plates, which are red).

For your convenience, there are rental agencies near the crossing points so you may rent a car once you cross over into the South. However, please note that insurance purchased from one side is not applicable in the other, so will need to take full responsibility for the car and buy extra insurance at the border if you want to drive it back into the North.

You may cross from North to South with a personally-owned motorhome brought on the ferry from Turkey, but you must return the same way.

For a personally-owned vehicle, your own insurance company may provide 'Green Card' cover for 'Cyprus' but this only refers to South Cyprus (now an EU member). Check your policy and buy extra cover if necessary (rough guide to price below). A car hired in South Cyprus should include insurance, for South Cyprus only.

If you have a 'Green Card' for your own vehicle in Cyprus, it definitely does not cover the North. A car hired in South Cyprus also excludes insurance for the North. Cover must be purchased (rough guide to price below).

Please note that these fares apply to both the Akgunler Ferries and the Fergun Ferries which operate in parallel, each running boats with identical fares and schedules. Approx exchange rate is 2 YTL=1 Euro. Akgunler take credit cards, Fergun want cash.

Dep Tasucu harbour daily at 1030 hrs (takes 2 hrs)

Dep Kyrenia daily at 0930 hrs

Dep Tasucu daily except Friday and Saturday – at midnight (takes 6 hrs)

Dep Kyrenia daily except Saturday and Sunday – at midday

Address : Galeria İş Merkezi Z/12 TAŞUCU

Phone : 0324 741 40 33 – 741 43 25 – 741 47 65 – 741 43 85

Fax : 0324 741 43 24

Akgunler Alanya Office

Address : İskele Cad. Ηarşı Mah. Yφnet Apt. No. 86/B ALANYA

Phone : 0242 512 88 89 – 511 25 03 – 511 25 06

Fax : 0242 511 24 56

Akgunler Kyrenia Harbour Office

Address : Akgόnler Denizcilik Yeni Liman Girne KKTC

Phone : 0392 81 56002

Fax : 0392 81 53268

Akgunler Management Office

Address : Yeni Liman Yolu, Candemir 5 Apt. No: 3 Girne KKTC

Phone : 0392 81 57929

Fax : 0392 81 58647

The Karpas Peninsula in North Cyprus is a wonderful place to camp, being both rugged and unspoilt, yet easily reached by car. There are other unspoilt natural areas in North Cyprus that are suitable for camping.

Well, not literally, but close enough! The Karpas Pensinula has clean, unspoilt beaches, and this is what nesting turtles love. The Turtle Beach Restaurant offers camping facilities right next to the dunes behind the mile-long Golden Sands beach, home to nesting turtles. The two species of turtle who nest on North Cyprus are heavily protected, but you can still watch the turtles lay their eggs or hatch. Just keep your distance and make sure you do not disturb them. The Turtle Bay campsite is remote, so it is a good 30-minute drive to the nearest village and there is no electricity supply at the site at present, but that's part of its charm!

Campsites spread out from the town of Gazimagusa (Famagusta) towards the Karpas Peninsula, so you can get the views without the remoteness! Onur Camping at Iskele is conveniently located near Salamis Bay and the fascinating ruins of the ancient town, so you can combine culture and beach in one easy location. Other North Cyprus campsites include Salamis Camping in Salamis, Incirli Camping in Lapta, Yeni Erenkoy Camping, Pelikan Camping in Kumyali and Kaplica Camping in Kaplica. Most of these sites offer washrooms, toilets and bars.

There are several official camping sites in the Girne (Kyrenia) and Gazimagusa (Famagusta) areas which offer services such as washrooms, toilets, restaurants and bars. However the more intrepid visitor may wish to venture out into the wild, such as the Karpas peninsula, where there are no such facilities. There are no restrictions on such activities except that lighting fires in forest areas is an offence. Also, please make sure you do not disturb the turtles of Northern Cyprus either, if you are camping on a beach.

Some General Thoughts on Crossing the Border (by a Turkish Cypriot)

While such crossings were impossible or considered illegal in the past it has now become common place. Many have bought insurance for their cars so that they may cross to the other side (whichever side that may be) in the comfort of their own cars. If you do not own a car and would like to rent one, please note that you may not cross the border to the South with a rented car from the North. However, you may cross to the North with your rented car from the South. If you cross with a car the only requirements are that you have all your papers, the car's papers and insurance purchased on the side that you will cross to. Insurance issued on either side is not valid in the other side. There are places where insurance can be purchased at the border crossings.

Crossing the border is not limited to vehicular traffic. If you do not have a car and wish to cross, you may do so on foot or as part of a tour by bus. The process has become quite hassle-free since the joining of the EU. Most countries including EU members and the US may cross the border in either direction. Only citizens of countries that would normally require a visa to enter Cyprus may not cross the border from the North. Also please note that there are allowances to the quantities of cigarettes and liqueur that you may transport to the South from the North. In addition there are restrictions on the value of goods allowed to cross the border per person, in either direction.

With this opening of the border both sides, the world can now freely cross the border and see how things are on the other side. There has been some shock at how much things have changed, since people are often of the belief that if they are not there to see it, time will stand still. For the most part people were happy to see places that they had not seen in 30 some years. Although there have been the occasional fights and vandalizing of private property, those are said to be isolated incidents that do now reflect the general will of the people on both sides.

Since the Republic of Cyprus joined the EU in 2004 the rules relating to border crossing in Cyprus have slightly changed and the majority of Cyprus guide and travel books are actually out of date.

When the Lokmaci barrier in the Arasta pedestrian area in North Cyprus is finally removed, and if the Greek Cypriots take down their barriers on Ledra Street, the heart of old Nicosia (Lefkosia) will once again be joined and the resulting border crossing point will be the sixth in Cyprus.

This particular barricade has been in place since 1958 - way before the 1974 troubles in Cyprus that finally divided the island - so you can see how significant the work is to open up the main shopping artery in Nicosia. Ankara have pledged 500,000 YTL to the project and the Turkish Cypriots would like to build a pedestrian bridge to join the two halves of the city. When the work is completed it will mean that residents and visitors to both sides of Cyprus will have the easiest and most accessible pedestrian crossing point.

In the meantime, the most used border crossing is at Metehan in Nicosia (Lefkosia). To access it by car from North Cyprus, assuming you're travelling from Girne, take a right at the first and main roundabout in North Nicosia and then at the first set of traffic lights take the left filter lane. Travel to the end of this long road and take a right at the roundabout. Move into the right hand lane and go straight over the next roundabout. You will now proceed directly to the Metehan border crossing.

If you have a British passport or are an EU passport holder or you have visa permission to enter the Republic of Cyprus, you should present your papers to the Turkish Cypriot authorities at the border, fill in a white visa slip with your name, passport number and nationality and then you will be allowed to pass.

Please note that if you are in a hire car from Northern Cyprus you will not be allowed into Southern Cyprus. You should park your car and walk across the border.

Once you reach the Greek Cypriot side of the border you will have to present your passport again and if you're driving you will have to buy insurance which can be bought by the month or year. If it is your first time across you should also get car tax - just ask at the insurance office on the border crossing and they will direct you. You will then have your tax, insurance and licence checked by the Greek Cypriot authorities and you can then proceed to the supermarket, airport or Marks and Spencer!!

If you're travelling to Northern Cyprus from South Cyprus you should drive to Nicosia and follow the few signs that exist to 'Keryneia' and you will arrive at the Metehan crossing point. You will not be stopped until you reach the Turkish Cypriot side. If you possess a British passport, an EU member state passport or have a visa to enter TRNC you will just have to present your papers, complete a white visa slip and you can proceed. Please note that hire cars from South Cyprus are permitted to enter Northern Cyprus, but all cars have to purchase additional insurance at the border crossing point.

The protocol for crossing the borders in Cyprus is the same whichever crossing point you choose. There is another pedestrian crossing in Nicosia at the Ledra Palace, and there is another popular crossing point in Famagusta, which people use to access Agia Napa for a good night out!

Despite what the guide and travel books say, the main crossing points are open 24 hours a day and you are not restricted on the number of times you cross backwards and forwards. You will get stamps on your white visa form (not in your passport) so those who are anxious that they won't be allowed onto the Greek or Turkish mainland with stamps from North or South Cyprus needn't worry.

Oh, and the tour operators in South Cyprus who advise you to take your own water, sandwiches, etc with you when you travel to Northern Cyprus are slightly out of touch, because we do actually have shops and restaurants in North Cyprus nowadays!!

Finally, if/when the Ledra Street/Lokmaci barrier border crossing is finally opened, it will be an historic day and it should show the politicians on both sides of Cyprus that the majority of the Cypriot people and the expatriate communities on both sides of the Green Line have hope for a solution to the Cyprus problem one day.

In recent years the unification of the island or at least the idea of it has come much closer to being realty. As of 2003 the borders were opened and there has been a free flow of citizens from both parts of the island. People from both sides cross the border on a daily basis for shopping, tourism, business, etc. As they come into contact with one another there is always the possibility for acts of senseless violence but, at the same time, people come in closer contact with one another and this is the beginning of what fosters healing, understanding and eventually peace.

Already sites such as talkcyprus.org have sprung up to foster peace and understanding through better communication and a sharing of ideas. In forums such as those, people from all walks of life and ethnic backgrounds can come together to express their views on the Cyprus problem. Visit talkcyprus.org and chat with Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots on-line.

This process has also allowed tourists to cross the border to get the whole-island experience. In doing so, the people of the world also get a closer look at the two sides and they themselves can compare what they heard to what they see to be true. As a result of this they too can be taken out of the game of "they did this". At the border tourists will get a form stamped and with that they will be allowed to cross to the south. Please note that the form will be stamped and not your passport. Also while nationals of most countries including EU countries and the US may enter the South, countries that would otherwise be required to have a visa in order to enter by other ports may not cross the border. Restrictions for EU countries, the US and others were lifted once the crossing was opened and Cyprus joined the EU. Although some of the laws have not changed, they are disregarded and for the most part there is free crossing. There are restrictions in the value of goods you may take across to either side.