CYCLING IN NORTH CYPRUS

Barry and Margaret Williamson

May 2008

The following notes were taken from a website promoting tourism in Northern Cyprus and may prove useful. Sadly, bent front forks on Margaret's touring bicycle prevented us from turning a wheel!

Not everyone wants to explore North Cyprus from behind the wheel of a car. The fit and strong will find that the TRNC (Turkish Republic of North Cyprus) offers several mountain and countryside routes and tracks to be explored from the saddle of a bicycle. Have you ever wanted to live in a place where you can cycle all year round? Mix challenging hill climbs and deserted tracks with stunning scenery and a friendly local welcome?

Cyprus offers a superb all year round climate for cycling, especially between the months of October and April where the temperature ranges between 15°C and 25°C. Annual winter rainfall is extremely low in comparison to general European levels. The cycling terrain available will meet the needs of cycling enthusiasts of all abilities, offering pine-clad hill tracks and lanes, sparse traffic outside the main towns, peaceful white-washed villages to pass through and an awe-inspiring Mediterranean coastline to view. The Kyrenia mountain range sits proudly above the northern coastline (peak Mount Selvili, 1023 m elevation) and presents the chance to sample a spectrum of terrain from a single coastal base.

There are plenty of accommodation options to choose from, especially in the off-season winter months. The mountain tracks are truly open to walkers and mountain bikers, so the countryside can be enjoyed without restriction. At the end of the day, there is a wealth of restaurants to choose from and indulge one's appetite, refuelling for the next day's ride. Below, I have given a flavour of the terrain and rides in the Kyrenia region but this list is by no means exhaustive and there are plenty of other options out there for you to explore.

Heading east from the harbour town of Kyrenia, take the main road east signposted Ozankoy/Catalkoy. After 6 miles take the left turn to Esentepe/Tatlisu onto the recently constructed tarmac eastern coast road. This wide and slightly undulating route hugs the coast and is smoothly surfaced. At Esentepe, the rider can choose to climb through the village to Alevkayasi, or ride the coast, taking the climb to Kantara and beyond.

Take the steep right turn off the eastern coast road signposted Esentepe. Once in Esentepe village (approximately 15 miles east of Kyrenia), there are a myriad of roads, but keep heading uphill and follow signs for Antiphonidis Church. This winding lane with a comfortable gradient will take you on a 6 mile climb to the Alevkayasi picnic area nestled in the mountain peak (819 m elevation). Heading back west to the Besparmak peaks, there is a wooden viewing platform offering cliff-edge views north over the valley floor and a perfect bird's eye view of the Esentepe golf course.

Continuing west, the lane winds to the junction atop of the "old mountain road" heading south to Nicosia. Opposite this junction, a track leads some 3 miles west to the foot of the remains of Buffavento castle. The mountain biker has the option to explore this track and the many hundred step climb to the castle itself. Alternatively, the rider can choose an immediate well-earned fast descent on the newly widened and resurfaced road, back downhill towards Kyrenia, but beware of the laden trucks lumbering downhill at a snail's pace. You will be tempted to overtake but beware of fast moving traffic from behind as well as on-coming.

Take the eastern coast road (as above). At 23 miles from Kyrenia the road ends in a T- junction. Fork left, signposted towards Tatlisu and continue east on this patchy track. After approximately 3 miles on this track, follow the left turn signposted for Kantara (a Byzantine fortification perched atop a precarious looking mountain peak). After 9 miles on the tracks, and at 32 miles from Kyrenia, Kantara is signposted to the right to the Kantara peak via the village of Mersmlik. The road surface is not great, but the scenery is fantastic and the thought of a meal at the Kantara Restaurant draws you on. You will reach a T-junction on the climb. Left takes you to Kantara, right to Iskele and the eastern coastal area. Total mileage from Kyrenia to Kantara Restaurant is around 40 miles, but not all of the last 8 miles are hard climbing: there is a plateau along the mountain's spine for the last few miles. At Kantara Restaurant (700 m elevation) there is a narrow rough tarmac road that leads down to the eastern coast (signposted Bogaztepe/Turnalar/Famagusta), with the road becoming well surfaced on reaching the Turnalar village plateau approaching Bogaz. Kantara Castle itself is a mile or so east beyond Kantara Restaurant and provides phenomenal 360 degree views of the eastern region of Cyprus.

Take the climb to Kantara from the eastern coast road (as above). Or alternatively, continue on the eastern coastal track and take the easier climb (330 m elevation) to Buyukkonuk and rejoin the Bogaz coast road via Tuzluca. Either way, once again you will need to head north-east from the Bogaz region via Yenierenkoy on towards the Karpaz peninsula. Kyrenia to Dipkarpaz is approximately 90 miles and is a tough one-day ride on a hot day. Beyond Dipkarpaz (the main town in the Karpaz region) the road surface deteriorates somewhat, but St Andrew's monastery and the eastern tip of Cyprus draws you on. There are wonderful beach huts (summer only) on the massive expanse of golden sand on the eastern side of the Karpaz peninsula, plus many other accommodation options available in Dipkarpaz itself. A chance to enjoy a simple, relaxing recovery after a long ride. In the turtle egg-laying and hatching season (June to October) this Golden Beach area becomes a conservation project. Visitors can also participate in experiencing the turtles' activities, along with students and conservation project staff.

On returning from the Karpaz, take the coast road via Bogaz and explore the ruins at Salamis (includes a stunning 1st century BC Roman theatre) and the wonderful Gothic architecture of Famagusta. The best example of this latter architecture is the impressive Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque, formerly a 14th century Cathedral of St Nicolas, where the Lusignan Kings of Cyprus were crowned Kings of Jerusalem. The old city is still enclosed within the massive Venetian walls that held the Ottoman Turks at bay for 10 months between 1570 and 1571. There are not many places where you can do some serious cycling all the year round, but North Cyprus is one of them. Amid stunning scenery you will find deserted tracks and challenging climbs, especially attractive in the more moderate temperatures between October and April.

Heading 14 miles west from Kyrenia (Girne) you will reach the climb to Camlibel. Depending on wind direction and temperature on the day, this climb can be challenging. There is a sight-seeing area about two-thirds of the way up this recently resurfaced climb, offering great views of the Gecitkoy reservoir and valley area. Turn right at the top of the climb to Camlibel and follow signs for Guzelyurt. The road passes through a wonderful, tree-lined, undulating and twisting section, before dropping towards the plateau of Guzelyurt. There is a chance to enjoy a fresh orange juice from road-side stalls in the flat plain approaching Guzelyurt, a fertile citrus growing area with colourful laden trees testament to the area in the picking season. Follow signs to Lefke and onto Soli, an early Greek settlement razed by Arab raiders in the 7th century. Soli's ruins include a Christian basilica with mosaic floors and a partially restored Roman theatre.

The road continues with spectacular coastal views before hitting the three-mile climb to Vouni itself. Vouni was the site of a palace built by the Phoenician pro-Persian king of the neighbouring city of Marion in around 498 BC. It was destroyed by a fire in 380 BC and was never rebuilt. But much of interest still remains and allows the visitor to imagine how the palace must have once been. The access road to Vouni itself is well surfaced but with some steep little inclines in places. However, the views from Vouni itself are well worth the agony, with panoramic views to the Troodos Mountains to the south and a bird's eye view of the North's jagged coastline.

If you don't want to take the full 48-mile run to Vouni from Kyrenia, shortly after leaving Camlibel (after passing the soccer field on your right), take the next right turn towards Sadrazamkoy / Korucam / Kayalar (also signposted with a brown sign to Mavi Kosk, a beautiful house in the area open to the public). This allows you to loop via a well surfaced road as far as Korucam with spectacular views to the west of Morfou Bay.

Take the left at the T-junction in Korucam and ride on towards Sadrazamkoy. If you are on a mountain bike, you can head further west from Sadrazamkoy to the lighthouse on the peninsula at Cape Kormakitis, or head east (signposted to the right in Sadrazamkoy for Kayalar) along the coastal road back via Kayalar to Karsiaka, rejoining the main road at Karsiaka beach. This loop is approximately 23 miles and is an undulating but very scenic ride, wonderful on a summer's evening.

Karsiaka to St Hilarion

Karsiaka is a village some 12 miles west of Kyrenia. The track from Karsiaka was given a tarmac cover in early summer 2004 and provides road and mountain bike riders a superb opportunity to climb and take in the mountain views and explore other dirt tracks. The climb starts in earnest on exiting the west side of Karsiaka, with the road passing below the track entrance to the abandoned Sina monastery built on the hillside above Karsiaka.

The fresh tarmac leads upwards at the foot of the climb to a steep zigzagging series of bends, often under the gaze of bemused goats. The climb challenges with variations in gradient that prevent a rider settling into an easy rhythm, the sort of climb that builds a cyclist's stamina and strength. The road surface is punctuated with loose surfaces in places after the left turn at the Kozan restaurant, some 3 miles into the climb (follow signs for "Tank" - a Russian made T42 Greek tank from 1974, set in concrete where it appears to have stopped). Laden trucks descend from a small quarry just before the Tank itself and push the road's tarmac from its foundations, so the surface is very patchy in places. Plenty of gears and energy are required for this ascent but the staggering views and mountain air liven the spirit and legs.

The track plateaus momentarily at the Tank monument, then rises again along the spine of the Kyrenia range, where the trees' shade offer cool mountain air and a summer respite on the rise towards the 1,000 m peak at the TV mast station (total climb to this point is some 7 miles from Karsiaka). The section approaching the peak provides stunning views of the north coast's shoreline as far as the eye can see. On clear winter days there is a view to the rugged, often snow-capped mountains of the Turkish mainland. Concrete roadside barriers on this upper section provide some reassurance from the steep drop-offs. St Hilarion provides a welcome coffee stop and a chance to refuel and retrace the route back to Karsiyaka, or drop down to the main Nicosia road to Girne (please note, the road up to St Hilarion from the Nicosia side is closed to cyclists passing the army camp). St Hilarion itself is a mountain fortress gripping the mountain peak, first built in the 11th century during the late Byzantine period and extended and developed by later Crusaders and Venetians. The views from St Hilarion offer panoramic views of Kyrenia and the North's coastline.

Baspinar to Karsiaka

The Kyrenia mountain range offers an uncluttered escape for the mountain bike rider. One favourite route of mine is the track from Baspinar heading west. Baspinar is located above Lapta, some 10 miles west of Kyrenia. Head out on the lower track (starting from the plateau of what was once the site for Baspinar Restaurant) to the deserted monastery at Karsiaka - approximately 4 miles off-road riding. Take the left turn at each main track junction when heading west and avoid riding off onto the wider fire breaks, as these often become dangerously steep and rocky. The terrain is undulating and dusty in places, with challenging sections and spectacular views. The abandoned Sina monastery built on the hillside above Karsiaka provides a good place to stop and recuperate.

Gecitkoy is located 14 miles west of Kyrenia at the foot of the Camlibel climb. Circling Gecitkoy reservoir, starting in the anti-clockwise direction from above the reservoir dam wall, you'll reach a fork: left over a small water ford in winter, or off to the right. The right hand track takes you on a moderat hairpin climb up through the trees towards the eastern approaches of Camlibel (behind the Beton Korman concrete works). The views looking back over Gecitkoy reservoir and the surrounding terraced hillsides are spectacular. Descending back down to the same fork in the track, the other track (now off to your right) leads out across the valley floor with a chance to take a full loop back to the dam wall (just turn left at the T-junction you reach) plus the opportunity to take other excursions on tracks leading off further south. Taking the right at this same T-junction takes you to a spring water outlet and a chance to cool off before exploring further.

Road manners can vary widely, from a driver's warning toot on the horn and plenty of space from a passing vehicle, to intolerant horn blasts from vehicles in either direction, or an expectation for a cyclist to clear left into the road side verge, which often drops away into sand and gravel (not the road cyclist's friends). As always, the cyclist must be wary of all road users at all times and expect the unexpected. In the summer months, take plenty of water and beware of dehydration. In the winter months, be prepared for showers and flash downpours, plus the cooler mountain temperatures when climbing in the hills. The availability of quality cycle spares is limited in North Cyprus, so it's best to bring all the back-up you may need for your riding. Off-road tracks have sharp rocks and even tough mountain bike tyres can be penetrated and tubes punctured. I've found that self-repairing tubes provide much better resistance and reassurance. For road riding, a triple or compact chain ring set is recommended, as some road climbs referenced have extremely short, sharp sections.