Turkey: Notes for Travellers

Barry and Margaret Williamson

June 2008

These Notes for Travellers were first published by the UK's Cyclists Touring Club (CTC), specifically by and for cyclists. We have extended and updated them from our 3-month, 3,500-mile motorhome tour of Turkey in April-June 2008. This was our fourth visit to Turkey: the first was at the end of a 6-week cycle ride from the UK.

Although still of primary interest to cyclists, these notes will be useful to all independent travellers, particularly those with motorhomes (and bicycles as well).

Turkish Tourist Office

Fourth Floor, 29-30 St James Street, London SW1A 1HB Tel : 020 7839 7778 www.gototurkey.co.uk

Embassy of the Republic of Turkey

Rutland Lodge, Rutland Gardens, London SW7 1BW Tel : 020 7591 6900 www.turkishconsulate.org.uk

Airlines take bicycles as part of baggage allowance. Although the airlines may say boxing the bike or putting it in a plastic bag is (or is not) necessary, the airport staff can think otherwise.

Full 10-year passport with at least six months to run. Visas for UK citizens can be bought at point of entry (£10 each). Have the right money as they often have "no change".

The New Turkish Lira (YTL). There is now no black market, although Euros are also accepted and sometimes preferred. Credit cards are accepted in most large establishments but beware - sometimes a charge is made for this service. ATMs are freely available in larger towns. Keep exchange receipts as they may be needed at point of disembarkation in order to change any remaining YTL back into euros or pounds - but best avoid needing to do this, if at all possible. The exchange rate seems to have stabilised at just about 2 YTL to 1 Euro, although the pound was not stable against the Euro during our stay in 2008!

Extremely varied. Following the coastline will show a good cross section of the many different life styles within Turkey, from the bustling tourist resort to the isolated farming village. Also along this route you will find a good selection of the historical sights. The many different terrains can also be experienced if the coast is followed far enough.

The following is a general area-by-area breakdown:

Fairly flat, open country. Passing through wheat fields, fig and olive orchards and pine forests. Many small villages and towns along the way. Not as developed as the Mediterranean coast but catching up fast. There are also numerous historic sights along here. As you progress south the terrain becomes more hilly.

Going inland away from the coast takes you into a more natural Turkey. Here lurk many undiscovered villages offering a glance of traditional daily life and culture. This area is very hilly but the scenery is spectacular.

The Bodrum Peninsula involves a few long steady climbs, which offer wonderful views, before descending to the coast. Here the road mainly hugs the shoreline with long open stretches linking holiday resorts. The tourist boom has had a marked effect on many of the towns along here but some still retain their charm as natural seaside towns. Where the road diverts inland expect a stiff climb. The stretch from Lake Köycegiz round to Antalya is highly recommended.

Central Anatolia, especially the Cappadocia area, provides long, flat to undulating riding with fascinating scenery and a good overview of farming life. Volcanic eruptions millions of years ago have formed a vast plateau criss-crossed by valleys. Big ups and downs with long flat stretches in between. There is very little shade around here and the days can therefore be very hot, especially in the summer, with the opposite in winter.

Throughout the area there is a moonscape-like appearance. In Cappadocia, where natural processes have eroded the soft volcanic tufa, it has left pillars capped by harder rock which are known as fairy chimneys. Many of these have been carved out over the years to form a basic dwelling.

Mountainous, dramatic and remote. Long distances between towns. Generally poorer than the western side and it shows. High altitudes giving extremes of weather.

A coastal strip backed by tree-covered mountains and high pastures, very reminiscent of the Alps. Rainfall here is higher than anywhere else in Turkey. Crops include rice, tobacco, hazelnuts and, at the eastern end, tea.

Rolling hills with orchards, olive groves and fields full of sunflowers.

Turkey is a vast country so the climate varies from region to region. Around the coast the temperature is normally warmer than the central areas. Between May and October there is little rain, except along the Black Sea coast. Best months along the coast are April to June and September to October, although November and even December on the Mediterranean coast can be very pleasant.

Visits to eastern areas should be between April and October. Outside of these months the weather can be extremely harsh with bitter winds and deep snow.

Central Anatolia can also attract rain from late September through to April. There is also the possibility of snow. Summer here is hot and dry.

Overall, spring and autumn are the best times to visit. The weather is pleasant, like an English summer, and the crowds are gone. The holiday season along the Aegean finishes in September and along the Mediterranean in late October.

Turkish, obviously, is spoken throughout the land. In the east Kurdish will be the prominent language, whilst in some places along the Aegean coast Greek is still spoken.

English is widespread, especially in major towns. Turkish children learn English as their second language at school and everyone wants to practise what they know.

Older people may speak German, having worked as Gastarbeiter. An educated elite might also have French.

Food is plentiful. Turkey is one of only seven nations to produce enough to sustain itself and export food as well.

All restaurants and cafes serve Turkish food. It is very rare to find any other styles of food, except in the large cities, where McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut and other fast food outlets are catching on fast (but they are more expensive than Turkey's own take-away food).

The cuisine is very basic, with most dishes consisting of lamb in one form or another. Every part of this animal from toe to ear is used in some way. (Of course, no pork products are sold.) Chicken and fish are also very popular, usually served with salad and bread or rice. Vegetarians can have a hard time dining out, although things are becoming easier. Omelettes are generally available.

Excellent fresh fruit and vegetables can be found in every town or village. Usually, there is a weekly market where the farmers come to sell the local produce.

Eating out is almost as cheap as self-catering. Restaurants in tourist areas have their prices set by government regulations and these tend to be more expensive than places around the back streets or in the smaller villages.

Tea is drunk everywhere, at all times, and you will soon be familiar with the little glasses of cay (pronounced 'ChI'). Turkish coffee is served strong and black, unless you ask for 'Nescafe' with milk. Soft drinks and fruit juice are also available – alcohol less so (though beer is served in bars in the tourist zone).

There is a wide range of accommodation available in Turkey, all of it cheaper than its western equivalent. Breakfast is often included in the price. The rates may be discounted by 20% during the low season (October to April), though along all the coasts and in Cappadocia many hotels (and campsites) will be closed then.

Top-price hotels, such as the Hiltons, Sheratons, etc are only found in the largest cities (Istanbul, Ankara and Izmir). The cost of an average hotel is very reasonable, depending on location. Prices in Istanbul are the highest; out east they are much lower. Around the major tourist areas, rooms will have en-suite facilities; otherwise expect a bare room with just enough space for you and your luggage. Apart from these, there are the basic hotels used by the farmers in town for the market or labourers looking for work. Prices here are very cheap, rooms are bare and functional, though you may find you are sharing with the odd mouse or two (or worse).

About the same price as the cheapest hotels are the pansiyons. These are the equivalent of a guest house crossed with a hostel. Here prices can vary depending on the size of room. Dormitories, sleeping up to eight, are the cheapest, progressing up to private doubles and singles. Quite often at these pansiyons you get use of the kitchen and there is a communal area.

At some of the cheaper places hot water is only available at certain times. Also hot water may not come out of the tap with the red marking. This is common in all levels of accommodation. When showering, turn on both taps and allow them to run for a while before trying to establish which is which!

When enquiring about rooms, inspect a few before deciding, as many proprietors try to unload their worst rooms first for a high price. Also ask about breakfast. Sometimes this is included in the price but if you don't mention it they may not!

There are campsites throughout Turkey, although most are situated round the coast, in forests or in Cappadocia. Some hotels and restaurants allow camping in their grounds. The cost of camping is on a level with the cheapest hotels and pansiyons. "Wild camping" is allowed and fairly safe (though beware wolves and fierce sheep dogs in the mountains).

Turks do not like the idea of anyone, especially tourists, being cold and uncomfortable, so don't be surprised if someone comes and drags you off to their property! They are an extremely and genuinely hospitable people and you will regularly be invited to drink tea or share a meal.

Banks: 8.30 - 12.00 and 13.30 - 17.00 Monday to Friday

Shops: 8.00 or 9.00 - 19.00 or 20.00 Monday to Saturday (and often on Sundays)

Musuems and Ancient Sites: Lesser ones sometimes closed on Mondays, or for a lunch-hour. Topkapi Palace in Istanbul is closed Tuesdays.

Religious Holidays: Islamic festivals vary from year to year. The Holy Month of Ramazan usually falls during August or September, but travellers are not obliged to fast.

Official Public Holidays: Jan 1 (New Year), April 23 (National Independence and Children's Day), May 19 (Ataturk Commemoration and Youth & Sports Day), Aug 30 (Victory Day), Oct 29 (Republic Day).

Most roads are constructed from limestone and marble chips, producing a rough surface. On newer roads these chips tend to end up in loose piles along the side where the cyclist is expected to ride, so you end up with a choice between slow progress through the chippings or moving into the centre of the road and the traffic. Another problem is caused by the heat. Temperatures in summer can soften the surface and the weight of passing traffic squeezes the tarmac out to the sides, forming waves which harden to leave an uneven surface.

During the winter months certain roads, especially in the east, can become washed out or blocked by snow. Detours are virtually impossible, unless you go off road, as there is normally only one road directly between towns.

Roadworks offer the same problem. When a new surface is to be laid, traffic will be held up in both directions whilst this is done.

Traffic is densest in the major cities (Ankara, Istanbul, Izmir) and their approaches. Generally, drivers of vehicles are considerate towards cyclists, even in these cities. All drivers tend to hoot as soon as they see you on the road. At first this is quite welcoming but after one million and one such hellos, it becomes a tad annoying. Many drivers will offer lifts, especially up hills.

Probably a general touring bike is best suited to the conditions unless you especially want to go off road. Remember that there a great number of hills, so consider a low gear ratio.

Bike shops carrying a wide range of spares can be found in most large towns. In major cities these shops will carry all the top ranges. Bike shops, as with other shops, are normally grouped together in the same street. Each will have a slightly different range from the next and it is possible to haggle between them for the best price.

In smaller towns and villages there is normally someone who knows "someone who can help".

No special equipment is needed. Essential in the summer is the provision for carrying plenty of water, as temperatures can soar. The tap water is drinkable but you may take time to adjust to it. Bottled water is sold everywhere.

If going east between September and May, ensure warm clothing is packed. At other times a light jacket or jumper may be necessary in the evenings.

Trains do have a bike carriage but are slow, few and limited in the places they serve.

The country relies on its bus network for public transport. All bus companies will take your bike. The difference is that on some you pay, some you don't. It seems to depend on who's selling the ticket, what side of bed they got out of, and the size of bus. Whatever the cost, even if it's free, ensure it is marked on your ticket, otherwise you may end up having to negotiate a price for the release of your bike at the end of your journey. A very uncommon occurrence but it has happened!

This is possible in very few places. Cappadocia was probably the easiest.

Photography

Do not point your camera at the police or anything military without having first asked permission. People can also be reluctant - ask first. There are a number of reasons for this: a) Workers in fields are in their "rags", not Sunday Best. b) Some think their picture will be used in western media to accompany a degrading story. c) Another reason is they think you will return home, show the picture around and laugh at their poverty. d) Many people still believe your camera is stealing their soul.

If, after taking their picture (with permission), a Turk makes signs of writing something down, they are not asking for money but asking you to take their address. Hopefully, once the film has been developed, you will then send them a copy of the picture – or make a print from your digital camera. This is the only way that some will ever have a chance of getting a self-portrait. Post it while still in Turkey.

People

Turks are extremely proud of their country and will want you to feel welcome. Take care not to offend this hospitality. Even the most innocent remark can be taken the wrong way. All Turks are very religious. Respect this fact. Cover bare flesh and remove shoes when visiting any mosque, even the big tourist attractions. Women need to cover their hair in the mosque – buy a headscarf, it makes a nice souvenir.

Personal Safety

You will feel safer here than in your own country. The majority of Turks are honest. Be ready for hassle from ticket touts at all major bus stations and carpet salesmen in all tourist towns!

Although tap water is considered safe, it's best to drink bottled water. Beware of food purchased from the street vendors. Rabies vaccination should be considered if going into the hinterland. Take out health insurance for the duration of your tour.

There is a German map available from Stanfords in London. Otherwise Bartholomew's produce one of reasonable detail. Get it before you leave the UK.

We arrived at Marmaris from Rhodes and cycled right along the Mediterranean coast to Mersin and Tarsus and then up to Goreme (Cappadocia). We got the bus to Ankara and then a train to Istanbul, then bus to Gelibolu (Gallipoli), then cycled from there to Bergama, then by bus to Selcuk (Efes), then cycled back to Marmaris (well almost - Bodrum).

The roads were all cyclable except where they were being 'done up', where progress was slow - though in some places faster than by car if the road was blocked. The worst part is the pebble-dashed road surface which slowed us down by about 30%. We found that on the only smooth road (from Tarsus north) we climbed 4,000 feet in the same time as we'd do a normal day's cycling on rough roads on the flat. The stories about maniac lorry drivers are myths - neither we nor the other cyclists we met found them any worse than in any other country. Drivers are OK and toot to relieve the boredom, as there is generally little traffic (except between Antalya - Alanya and from Tarsus north on the main Ankara road). Don't be afraid of the hills - they're worth the extra effort for the incredibly superb scenery they provide, especially from Marmaris to Antalya and Gazipasa to Silifke. The Mediterranean coast is truly spectacular – even better than the Aegean, which is still excellent.

We found a cycle shop in Istanbul opposite the main 24-hour Post Office (down a side street) which sold 27 x 1 1/4 inch tyres and 700 C tyres - elsewhere we didn't look but doubt that they were sold.

Turkish portion meals were small but cheap, so after a good day's cycling be sure to order lots of dishes. Coffee is, of course, widely available but not necessarily in coffee shops!

We drank tap water and road-side fountain or drinking trough water everywhere - and never suffered. When we did it was due to an excess of cherries, dried apricots or figs, but it's worth it. Corba (soup) is always good value and is excellent with lots of bread for breakfast.

I wore my normal cycling shorts and no-one minded wherever we went. I usually wore a scarf to keep the sun off and to look vaguely like the local women but it wasn't necessary. Dave dressed as normal too and had a few comments when he cycled shirtless but no-one seemed to mind either.

How women get on alone I don't know, but the few times I went about 'Dave-less' the banter and interest from the younger men increased noticeably, though I think this could be the case for all Mediterranean men! Further East I don't know.

No problem with the bikes, though one conductor charged us the people fare for luggage (bikes) and pocketed it. Istanbul bus station is chaos and my bike was knocked over by a minibus driver, but was all right. Tell the ticket office when you book that you have bikes - they usually travel free.

The bikes travelled on a separate train and were fine. They are charged by weight without luggage.

To and from Turkey (Rhodes-Marmaris), bikes were carried free of charge.

The Turks were amazingly friendly - more than people in Arab states - and if we had accepted every glass of tea offered we would never have cycled anywhere. We were often given fruit and flowers as we passed and spent a good deal of energy waving and shouting at people in the fields and other road users we passed. No-one wanted our address - rather they wanted us to take theirs. Turkey is a truly excellent place for a holiday.

Edirne - Istanbul - boat to Izmir - along coast to Fethiye, Kas, Antalya - through Toros mountains to Konya - Aksaray - Cappadocia - Kayseri - Sivas - Erzurum - Dogubayazit.

Would specially recommend the Mediterranean coast: beautiful views, beaches, pine forests and plenty of archaeological sites along the route too. It gets very hilly beyond Antalya and other cyclists we met did not recommend going, as the continual ascents and descents were rather soul-destroying. Cappadocia was great, an extraordinary landscape and very exciting to cycle around. The route from Erzurum to the Iranian border was also very good: stark scenery with dramatic mountains, including Mount Ararat, rising from nothing.

West: Still warm and sunny in October - we were swimming mid-October - but once away from the coast the temperature dropped distinctly and we had some cold nights and chilly, clear mornings. East: From Erzurum onwards we were wearing overshoes, gloves and thermal underwear until at least mid-day.

Shorts are OK for men and women on the West and South coasts, where tourists are a common sight, but inland we felt it was more appropriate to wear loose cotton trousers. We tried Turkish shalwar - baggy trousers worn by the men - which were comfortable but increased wind resistance, and the crotch is around the knees!

We found the surfaces reasonable, especially along the coast. Inland there are lots of roads surfaced with large chippings which slow you down a bit. The roads in the East were wonderfully empty. Trucks would often offer lifts and we met cyclists who got up the steep hills by clinging on the back of a lorry - this didn't seem a wise idea with our fully laden tandem. Possible to put tandem in a bus - full length across luggage compartment – but it's a bit tricky and you need to persuade the driver.

Particularly for tandemists - you don't need track bike wheels but need very good 700C or 27 x 1 1/4 inch sizes, and it helps if you know how to adjust the spokes. We had Mavic Mod 4, 48 hole rims and Specialized Touring X tyres, which were very good. We had Presta extra-thick inner tubes which were great. We had our first puncture after 3,000 km of cycling. We discovered a big design fault, that the inner tubes split along the seams after about 3,400 – 4,000 km.

Shimano - we have a very wide ratio freewheel 13-32 and a triple chainset, and found this arrangement excellent for the steep hills and plains riding.

Best to take everything, especially for tandems, including long cables, etc.

We would really recommend Turkey for a cycling tour. The scenery is fantastic and very varied. The food is great and the people warm and hospitable. However, must mention a few hazards - in Central and Eastern Turkey there are a lot of rather vicious sheep dogs who chase bicycles and sometimes bite the riders. We carried a hand-made whip in defence and used it many times. Also in the East, a popular children's game is throwing stones at cars and bicycles - annoying but not really meaning harm and they are easily frightened off. However, these hazards pale in comparison with the enjoyment to be had cycling in Turkey.

Start and finish at Dalaman airport, in between Marmaris and Fethiye. The airport was built to cater for tourists, mainly arriving on charter flights.

From Dalaman, east along coast to Fethiye, Kas, Finike, Antalya, bus to Denizli (for Pamukkale), back to Denizli, Tavas, Afrodisias (diversionary loop - good but arduous, whichever direction tackled), Nazilli, Yenipazar, Incirliova, Selcuk, Kusudasi, Akköy, Gulluk, Mugla, Dalaman.

In the first two weeks of October it was pleasantly hot, probably ideal. Autumn and spring were suggested in the guide book. From what I gathered, mid-summer would be too hot for comfortable cycling, particularly along the coast.

From my experience (600 miles cycling in SW Turkey) the driving standards are not nearly as bad as people had suggested - perhaps on the E-W Middle East routes it is different. Usually I was given plenty of room, never forced off the road. The Turks use their horns very frequently, more than any nation I know, mainly as a hello or friendly warning that you are about to be overtaken. Very occasionally repeated blasts of the horn (usually by lorry drivers) mean move over, usually for a very good reason, and you should oblige.

Many of the newly surfaced roads are made of very coarse aggregate which gives an uncomfortable energy-sapping, gyrating ride requiring sturdy panniers. Generally roads were better than expected. However, as many of the roads are being improved (especially near the coast) you are bound to come across loose gravel or earth roads, even if you weren't planning to use them.

Main highways provided some quiet, pleasant cycling. Only found the E24 to be both boring and busy, although much of it can be avoided. Don't expect the coast roads to be easy going - they go up and down the mountains as if the sea wasn't there!

Highly recommended to cover less interesting places and time shortages. I had no problem transporting my bike the 200 miles from Antalya on the Mediterranean coast to Denizli (then on to Pamukkale). Very cheap.

Mostly very friendly, waving and saying hello, but a few tried to catch onto my panniers and asked for money (para). Probably not helped by being alone.

Yes, there is a certain mystique about Turkey and it has been my most adventurous tour to date. At the end you realise there is nothing very foreboding about Turkey - the reverse in fact.

Dalaman airport to Fethiye (mountainous, busy road by Turkish standards); Fethiye to Uzumlu (very steep climb), Incirköy to Karabayir (very steep climbs), over a pass to Cameli (restaurants and pensions). Stretch between Uzumlu and Karabayir was unsurfaced, very few vehicles - wonderful! Bus to Denizli, then coach to Selcuk. Cycling was lovely around Selcuk and to Pamucak beach (flat terrain). Coach to Lake Köycegiz, boat to Dalyan. Dalyan to Dalaman airport - flat, busy road. Dalaman - Sarsila is a fabulous mountain road, but dead end at beach; also it is unpaved.

Mountainous area - though some flat valleys. Many of the nicest spots were on unsurfaced roads. Traffic was fast but light, except on major roads.

We flew into Antalya (chartered flight) with JMC (Thomas Cook). No charge for the bikes once you speak to the right people but we had to box or bag them. We made canvas bags as described in the CTC info sheet on bike bags. For such a short time it's important where you fly into, as it takes a long time to travel in Turkey by bus (30/40 km an hour with stops).

Another option for us would have been to fly into the Cappadocia airport and out of Antalya/Dalaman. This would take longer to fly, as it's via Istanbul, but may be better. However Turkish airlines want bikes boxed/bagged and charge (£30?) for each journey.

From the airport we took a taxi with our bagged bikes to the hotel we had chosen from the guidebook. We couldn't believe how easy it was – no hassle, no wanting to take us to another hotel, nothing.

This was a relaxing holiday so we bussed to Göreme, Cappadocia and stayed in Uchisar for 3 days. Around Göreme there's wonderful off-road cycling on firmish sandy paths, fine on touring bikes with good tyres (Continental), particularly in the Red/Rose valleys north of Cavusin.

We then did a route round Cappadocia staying in hotels/pensions – Uchisar/Güzelöz/Derinkuyu (underground city)/Ihlara (gorge)/Aksary. This was good too, and not touristy. The route was either in valleys or over plateaux.

Our final stop was Egirdir in the Turkish Lake district – we did a couple of good day-rides from here.

We were originally going to cycle a bit of the coast too but weren't sure how busy the road would be, and wanted to limit our travelling time.

Just about all roads we saw were tarmac in reasonably good condition. The route we did around Cappadocia was reasonably quiet, to very quiet in places. Roads between towns seem to be busy (like A roads here). Some hooting of horns but not as excessive as expected, and probably driving similar to A roads here, i.e. if there's lots of traffic there's more chance of trucks/cars overtaking too close. The map we had was a GeoCenter Euromap with a scale of 1: 800 000, about the best scale available. What was shown as earth roads now seems to be tarmac. The Lonely Planet atlas didn't seem to show any more roads and was still 1: 800 000, and is in book form.

We had no problems on big buses but on the smaller buses it took a bit of persuading sometimes. The bus stations in the big towns are often a fair distance from the centre (in Konya probably 15- 20 km) and it may be better to try to leave bikes there rather than cycling in, if you don't want them in town.

I wore trousers all the time and a top with short sleeves. In late October it can be quite chilly cycling, so often we wore fleeces. If it's not sunny (one day out of 14) it is cold. We used our thermals/gloves/hat if we walked outside at night.

We tried to learn a bit beforehand from a tape but got stuck. The most complicated words seem to be thank you, good day, good-bye etc, as these words have so many syllables. However, once you learn what all the squiggly accents etc mean in terms of pronunciation, it's pretty easy to start learning the names of things, particularly as some seem like French/Spanish words. The Turkish people seem to like any attempt. We didn't take a dictionary/phrase book but wished we had, as the section in our guide book didn't have enough for making friends with people. If you want to learn some Turkish beforehand I suggest you try to learn words without loads of syllables, and leave the complicated words for when you get to Turkey!

Cold at night and, after the clocks change at the end of October, it gets dark at 5pm (light at 6am), so look for rooms with heating. Sunny days are like warm spring days here – for us it was just about the right temperature. Can be cold cycling with a chill wind. The coast was much warmer: you could sit outside at night and swim in the sea. The trees were in their autumn colours and looking beautiful.

We really enjoyed it and can support what everybody else says about how friendly the people are. It is possible to cycle without tents but you need to know whether there are hotels or not. The Lonely Planet seemed to be reasonably accurate. Having said that, if we go back we would probably take our tents and cycle near the coast and in the mountains behind.