BY MOTORHOME ACROSS AUSTRALIA

The Log of an 8,500 mile Journey

Part Two: May 2005

Margaret and Barry Williamson

The log could be read in conjunction with our Notes on Motorhome Travel in Australia.

The full range of published photographs can be seen at Australian Photographs

This daily log gives an account of a 90-day motorhome journey across Australia by hired motorhome. We left Perth on the west (or Indian Ocean) coast on 2 April 2005 aiming to reach Brisbane on the east (or Pacific Ocean) coast at the end of June. The route was to take us across the Nullarbor Plain to Port Augusta (with time to hike in the Flinders Ranges), south to Adelaide, then along the Murray River to Echuca and down to Melbourne for the ferry to Tasmania.

After Tasmania we aimed to retrace our steps to Swan Hill on the Murray, drive north to Broken Hill and then to follow the Darling River up to Bourke. We would then drive the Mitchell Highway and Matilda Way north to Barcaldine and north again to Cairns, before turning south for the inland route to Brisbane. 

This log of what actually happened should be read in conjunction with 'Australian Travel Notes' which gives a lot of background information on travelling and motorhoming in Australia, as well as details of the motorhome we used.

The distance driven is given, along with the cost of a powered site with 2 adults at the named CP, TP or HP, taking account of the 10% discount if a Top Tourist or Big 4 member.

CP = Caravan Park     TP = Tourist Park     HP = Holiday Park  

(All would be called a Campsite in the UK, a Campground in the US)

May 1 (22 km)                          MELROSE CP ($A18)   

Relocated to Melrose, just 22 km south of Wilmington: another historic little town, claiming to be the oldest settlement in the Flinders (1843). The caravan park here is right at the foot of the trail to the summit of Mt Remarkable, a hike we'd enjoyed in 2002 and now repeated. The walk of 13 km return took 5 hours (3 up and 2 down) with 2,000 ft of climbing.

Up through the woods (full of squawking corellas) to the WWI  Memorial, the trailhead for the National Park's footpath across the eastern face of Mt Remarkable. The many patches of scree made it slow going, but the wind was cool and we were rewarded with views over Melrose and the vast Willochra Plain, with its 2 sets of grain silos and arrow-straight gravel roads. A chilling sight, towards the top of the climb, was the wreckage of a light aircraft on the scree slope below us – crashed in 1980 on its way to Adelaide, with no survivors.

 Sandwiches at the summit (3,200 ft) were welcome, then a steady downhill trek back. Again, the solitude was wonderful – just 4 other walkers out today. We talked to a Hungarian couple, who had emigrated from Budapest to Adelaide 15 years ago.

Back at base, we photographed a very tame mother and baby wallaby grazing round the caravan park, while a kookaburra laughed loudly at any attempt to snap it.

May 2 (75 km)   PORT AUGUSTA, Shoreline CP ($A19.80) Top Tourist

To Port Augusta's Library and Shops

Drove back via Wilmington and the Horrocks Pass to Port Augusta, lunching by the bird reserve lake near the power station. The 'pink lake', across the highway, has turned into a salt pan – water shortage is very real.

Another hour in the Library, where we are on first name terms with the helpful staff! Read some welcome emails from friends, replied to MMM reader enquiries, checked our bank statements and booked a ferry to Tasmania through the internet (the best deal Apex fare has to be paid at least 14 days in advance).

Port Augusta is also excellent for shopping and we equipped ourselves for more serious hiking, buying a small rucksack and 2 walking sticks. (The latter from the pharmacy, the only ones we could find, but very sturdy!) Also got a CD dictionary/thesaurus for the laptop from Tandys, excellent value. Food supplies and fresh socks were bought at Woolworths, spending over $A30 to qualify for the petrol/diesel discount coupon.

A short walk along the river shoreline from the caravan park as dusk fell, opposite the disused port and old wooden bridge.

May 3/4  (170 km)                    WILPENA POUND, Resort Camping Area ($A22)

To Wilpena Pound to climb to Tanderra Saddle on the St Mary Peak Hike

Drove out to Wilpena Pound, in the heart of the Flinders Ranges, following the Richi Pichi scenic railway to QUORN, then on to HAWKER (both historic little outback towns, each with a store and a caravan park). After passing the turning for Rawnsley Park Station, the road enters the Flinders Ranges National Park, with a $A7 per vehicle entry fee. The land rises from flat scrub to the elevated basin of Wilpena Pound, its rim an abrupt escarpment of peaks and gorges. The sealed road ends at 'Wilpena Pound Resort', complete with visitor centre, scenic flights, 4WD tours, expensive motel, overpriced shop and – for the rest of us – an extensive bush camping area with hook-ups and well hidden ablutions.

A range of walks, from '30 minutes, easy' to '9 hours, hard' start from the trailhead here. In 2002, we had climbed Mt Ohlssen Bagge (4 hrs and 6.4 km return, height 940 m (3,100 ft)). Today, we followed the outside (direct) route of the St Mary Peak hike. At 1,171 m (3,860 ft), it is the highest peak in the Flinders. The first 5 km was a very easy undulating woodland path that gained no height, then the hard stuff began, up the outer rim of the Pound to the ridge of Tanderra Saddle. From a starting height of 1,636 ft we climbed to 3,176 ft on the ridge. This involved scaling 2 small rock faces, the second with the aid of our rope (also called a washing line!). We lunched on the Saddle and turned for home, leaving the option of the final short but difficult 500 ft climb to the summit to others (3 athletic young Germans, the only hikers to pass us, to be exact). Back to base in the late afternoon: total height gained 1,540 ft, distance walked 13 km, time taken 5½ hours. The views of the central Flinders had indeed been 'breathtaking'.

May 5 (30 km)                          RAWNSLEY STATION CP ($A22.50) – Top Tourist

To Rawnsley to climb the Bluff

Relocated to Rawnsley Park Station, about half way back towards Hawker, then 3 km along a gravel track. The large homestead outside the southern corner of Wilpena Pound offers a caravan park, holiday units, Woolshed Restaurant, scenic flights, 4-WD tours, horse-riding and cycle hire. Choice of 6 walking tracks, from '45 min, easy' to '5 hrs, difficult'- all well signed.

We chose the latter, the ascent to the surveyor's cairn on Rawnsley Bluff. The trail from the car park followed the creek bed for half a mile (a few emus and kangaroos at large), then climbed the red Bonney Sandstone foothills of Wilpena, steepening up the quartzite to the Lone Pine Lookout. Lunch with a view of (salt) Lake Torrens and a chat with a lone Swedish hiker on his descent. More scrambling, then along the ridge, past the fork for the Wilpena Lookout and on to the Bluff, surveyed by Parry in 1858 – there is even a visitors' book! It was easier, but not much faster, on the descent.

Start height in car park 1527 ft. Height of Bluff 3064 ft. Height gained 1540 ft. Distance walked 13 km. Time taken 4½hours. Weather still sunny, warm and 'dryzabone'.

Back at base, our Maui Mercedes was inspected by a couple from Sydney who are thinking of buying one. Most Australians tow caravans or trailer-tents, or squeeze into small campervans: motorhomes are relatively uncommon.

May 6 (160 km)    PORT AUGUSTA, Shoreline CP ($A19.80) Top Tourist

From Aboriginal Cave Drawings to Woolworths

Back to Port Augusta, turning off before Hawker for the Yourambulla Caves. A short walk from the car park to 3 rock overhangs, with some Aboriginal charcoal and ochre symbols representing initiation rites and animal tracks. The most exciting part was climbing the inspection ladder and talking to visiting Canadians.

In PA we enjoyed a Pizza Hut lunch, Woolworths for food and fuel and a free hour on the library internet. Caught up with our emails and researched NZ motorhome hire for the next leg of our journey.

The caravan park was full and we camped on the overflow area by the river (which is in no danger of overflowing – the 4-year drought is evident everywhere).

May 7 (71 km)                          MELROSE CP ($A18)

To Melrose for a Nature Walk

Drove via the Horrocks Pass and Wilmington, back to the delightful Melrose Caravan Park at the foot of Mt Remarkable.

An afternoon ramble (nearly 3 hrs) on the hillside below the National Park, partly following the Melrose Nature Trail under Cathedral Rock, in search of the scant relics of the Old Melrose Copper Mines (closed since 1851). Surprised a couple of kangaroos and a few sheep but no other walkers. Returned through the little town, all rustic charm with mid-19thC cottages, flour mill, brewery, butter factory, police station, etc. Crossed the dry creek on a swaying swingbridge as dusk approached.

A lone female cyclist had arrived with mountain bike and trailer, erected her little tent and gathered wood for a campfire. Margaret joined her in the gloaming and learnt that she was riding from Canberra to Port Augusta, then north up the Stuart Highway, soon to be joined by her husband in a support van. She is only the 4^th cyclist seen since Perth, in over a month!

May 8/10 (256 km)                   GAWLER CP ($A21)

Down the Clare Valley for a Birthday in Gawler

A long drive southwards on the Main North Road, through a series of little rural towns – WIRRABARA, LAURA, GLADSTONE – all looking like delightful places to live. CLARE, a name known to wine-lovers, was larger but very quiet, despite this being Australian Mother's Day (8 May). Lunched in the car park and walked the high street – easy parking and clean toilets are always free in Australia (except for car parks and meters in the busy capital cities, which we try to avoid).

Continued towards Adelaide, joining the Barrier Highway and coming to rest in GAWLER, 25 miles short of the State Capital (which we had explored in 2002). Gawler's only caravan park, a short walk from the centre, was almost full. The North Para River, on whose bank it stood, was empty, despite signs warning of flooding.

Enjoyed a break for Barry's birthday, with an excellent pub lunch in the Kingsford Hotel (though the waitress didn't understand what 'half a bitter' was). There was free internet access at the Visitor Centre for 15 mins, and unlimited time in the splendid library and reading rooms. Here we finalised booking our NZ motorhome, to be collected in Auckland in July, and confirmed flights on the phone with Air New Zealand.

Barry got some good leather Nike sandals to replace the disintegrating plastic pair bought in Thailand – ironically, found the Nike ones are labelled 'Made in Thailand'!

Asked the post office assistant how to get our mail redirected from Alice Springs to Bendigo, since we've changed our original route, and were instructed to complete a change of address form (in duplicate) and pay $A11. Instead, we rang Alice Springs PO, chatted with a helpful woman and were told 'both items are on their way'. There are always 2 ways in this country: the official way and the reasonable way. Just a matter of finding a reasonable person.

May 11 (193 km)                      COBDOGLA Station CP ($A19.8) – Top Tourist

Sturt Highway through the Riverland, to meet and follow the River Murray

Gained and lost one thousand feet exiting the Barossa Valley (vineyards), driving NE on the Sturt Highway. About 20 km before Blanchetown, we reached the border of the 'Fruit Fly Excusion Zone' (which stretches across State boundaries into Victoria and NSW). We lunched in a handy rest area – complete with quarantine disposal bin - finishing our forbidden fruits and tomatoes. All fruits are taboo except pineapple, or those purchased in SA 'for which you have a detailed purchase receipt' – we hadn't! Talked with a pair of retirees from Melbourne, taking their caravan home, who had also stopped to consume their apples. They explained there was no roadblock, but inspectors could make spot checks (and spot fines).

Reached the Murray River, minus fruit (wondering if these fruit flies can actually fly, which would defeat the object?), at BLANCHETOWN. Viewed the No 1 Lock (the first in the series, counting upstream from where the river tries to reach the south coast via Lake Alexandrina). At least the lock system ensures there is water in Australia's principal river, albeit slow and brown, barely flowing. Stark dead trees stand drowned, parallel with the banks where modern houseboats are moored. Pelicans and water fowl glide effortlessly, flying with equal ease, making all our modes of transport seem so clumsy, so noisy, so dangerous. Until the concrete bridge of 1962, the river was crossed here by ferry. Now a newer bridge carries the highway across and on through the Riverland.

Driving through orange groves, we met the river again at WAIKERIE, the country's citrus centre, perched on the limestone cliffs the Murray has cut (or was it the giant Murray Cod of Aboriginal Dreamtime?)  Difficult to follow the line of the river across the land, with its many lagoons, oxbows, splits and meanderings. The Sturt Highway runs pretty straight, the Murray anything but! It irrigates a vast area of fruit, veg and vineyards.

At COBDOGLA (known as Cobby), we spotted a quiet caravan park on the shore where the river forms Wachtels Lagoon. A good place for the night, wooded and grassy, with just 2 other tourers, under a new crescent moon trying to outshine the stars. In the 19thC, the huge Cobdogla Station had 500 km of riverfront – all that remains is the stone chimney end of the homestead ruins, in middle of the caravan park.

NEWS: Yesterday, Tony Blair held on to power with a reduced but more than adequate majority. What was the alternative?

May 12 (208 km)                      MILDURA, Sunraysia HP ($A15)

Through the Central Riverland and into Victoria

Leaving Cobbie, we soon turned off into BARMERA for coffee by Lake Bonney and another pleasant half hour in a library, checking our email.

Continued east on the Old Sturt Highway, through GLOSSOP (biggest winery and distillery in the country) and BERRI (fruit juices and the Big Orange). On the Murray riverfront at Berri, found the 'special place for Jimmy James' – a footpath with granite boulders, engraved with animal tracks by his artist nephew. Jimmy was a legendary Aborigine tracker, who worked with the police to trace missing or runaway persons – quite a character judging by his photograph.

Met the floundering Murray again at RENMARK, where we stopped to sample McDonalds new low-fat 'Lean Beefburger' (a slight improvement) and to feed the Maui with 55 litres of Woolworths best diesel. The Sturt Highway crosses the river to PARINGA and soon enters Victoria. The vineyards, orchards and riverside towns give way to dry, empty outback scenery as the highway heads due east. Only one place to pause, by the lakeside at CULLULLERAINE, until the outskirts of MILDURA. (The Silver City Highway runs due north for 300 km to Broken Hill, a landmark on our trans-continental cycle ride of 2000, but not on our route today.)

Mildura, a busy city on the Murray near its confluence with the Darling, has at least 10 caravan parks. We chose the first we came to, opposite the airfield about 5 km before the city, used mainly by workers and grape-pickers. Only one problem – our cassette toilet is full and very few caravan parks have dump points (none in Gawler or Cobdogla). Problem solved, 'no worries' – we were directed to a public dump point in the city itself.

May 13/15 (263 km)                 SWAN HILL, HP ($A19)

To and at Swan Hill on the Murray – a good weekend's work

South down the Calder Highway from Mildura, through national park woodlands as far as HATTAH. Turned east along a very quiet minor road through the mallee (bushland). Lunch on the banks when we met the river, then along the Murray Valley Highway through the state forests at PIANGIL and so to SWAN HILL, a surprisingly large and busy town after the tiny farming settlements we'd passed through.

The Murray is about 2,500 km long (over 1,500 miles), twisting and meandering its slow course, forming many lagoons and lakes on its flood plain. Here it is the border between Victoria and NSW to the east. It irrigates vines, fruit and vegetables and provides fishing and leisure, but is no longer used for transport this far inland. The paddlesteamers which led Mark Twain to call it 'the Mississippi of Australia' are now just pleasure boats.

At Swan Hill, it is joined by the Marrabor (or Little Murray). The town was named by the explorer Major Mitchell (1836), and there are still black swans on the river (not sure about the hill?) The railway came in 1890. Much more about its history if you visit Australia's first Pioneer Settlement Museum, complete with horse-drawn carriage rides, river cruises, an evening sound & light show, etc (we didn't).

We shopped in Swan Hill and booked an hour's internet time at the Library for tomorrow morning. There is a choice of caravan parks in the town, including a Big 4 and a Top Tourist right by the river, but 3 km south along the Murray Valley Highway is a much friendlier (and slightly cheaper) park, run by Peter and Judy Dowell.

After dark (of course) there was an electrical fault in our part of the park, so cooked supper on the gas (no microwave). At one point, the mains voltage had risen to 300! Next morning we moved alongside 'Stress Relief', the splendid 5^th-wheeler occupied by Cliff and Joy, temporary assistants on the caravan park. (Their towing vehicle has the rego 'BCOOL2'.) Cliff, a retired uranium miner, was a great help and we were able to use the broadband wireless internet connection supplied for park residents, including ex-accountant Jimmy who once set out to cycle round the country. (His bike now rests against his caravan.) Barry made good use of this unusual concession, catching up with emails and MMM enquiries and making great progress on developing our website, with a lot of support from Bec in Cairns, chatting on-line.

Margaret had time for letter-writing, domestic chores and talking to the neighbours. The local chapter - Murray Goldfields - of the CMCA (Camping and Motorhome Club of Australia) was holding its monthly gathering here: about a dozen campervans and small motorhomes, complete with a banner. On Saturday evening, they went for a meal at the Murray Downs Golf & Country Club, which was preferred over the RSL as it sent a courtesy bus to collect and return them. Sunday morning saw them playing disc bowls: a very sociable group – and great knitters!

In the Office, Judy Dowell (whose late father was Latvian) was keen to talk about Europe, as she and her mother were about to make their first visit. In turn, she talked to us about Tasmania, where the family had spent their last summer holiday, with 4-WD and trailer tent.

An excellent weekend where we felt 'at home'.

May 16 (263 km)                      BENDIGO, Central City CP ($A22)

To Bendigo via the Murray port of Echuca

Followed the Murray Valley Highway south-east. The river's presence was felt in a series of small freshwater lakes, home to ibis, pelicans, black swans and a range of ducks and waterbirds. The largest, Lake Boga, 16 km from Swan Hill, has a WW2 Flying Boat Museum featuring a Sunderland. LAKE CHARM has a caravan park. After 55 km, near Kerang on the Loddon River (one of the Murray's many tributaries), Lake Reedy has a 2-storey bird hide with a powerful telescope, provided free by the local Rotary Club, just a short walk from the car park. We observed a huge area of wetland and redgum forest where the contented birds were all asleep, heads under wings, even the huge pelicans perched on branches of drowned trees.

In KERANG we stopped to buy a map of Tasmania from the RAC shop and found a wheelchair race for pensioners in full flight down the closed-off main street – you never know what's coming off next in small-town Australia!

The lakes disappeared as we followed the M V Highway, meeting the Murray again at ECHUCA. With its twin, Moama (on the NSW side of the river), this is one of the oldest river towns, once the country's largest inland port. Now it's a popular and expensive tourist centre, being too near Melbourne (at least 4 caravan parks). Pausing to walk round in the afternoon sunshine, we were disappointed to find that the whole heritage waterfront, with its massive redgum wharf, steam port and railway, was completely screened by high fences and an entrance fee. This is British history (Victorian in both senses) and we felt that if tickets were needed to enter the 2 'historic' pubs and moored boats, there should at least be open access to the river wharf. The workshops of the blacksmith and the redgum woodworker were sales outlets, but gave us the only glimpse of the water.

So we left Echuca faster than most, turning south on the Northern Highway. We exited the Fruit Fly Exclusion Zone at ROCHESTER, moving into the goldfields of Central Victoria. Our destination, BENDIGO, was the centre of the world's richest goldfield and deepest goldmine in the 1880's and its wealth is evident in the grand buildings, cathedral and wide tree-lined avenues. The Central Deborah Goldmine, worked until 1954, is right in the town centre and still open for underground tours.

Along Pall Mall, the ornate goldrush Post & Telegraph Office building is now the Visitor Centre, from where we were directed to the modern post office over the road, past the decorative 4-storey Shamrock Hotel along Williamson Street. Here our mail was waiting, packets from Margaret's Mum and our friends in Bournemouth. Our first post since Bangkok in mid-January! (Thank goodness for text messages and email to keep in touch.)

At least 5 caravan parks on the outskirts of town but we used the nearest, which was directly on our onward route to Melbourne, though it was overpriced for parking on a bit of gravel! A busy evening reading letters from Mum and friends and sorting the usual backlog from banks, house agents, insurers, etc.

May 17 (207 km)                      FERRY, Spirit of Tasmania

To Melbourne for the Ferry: the joy of Aldi and confusion of the tollway

Leaving Bendigo, we passed an unusual and welcome sign 'Aldi' (a German supermarket popular throughout Northern Europe). We stocked up for Tasmania, except for fruit and vegetable which are forbidden entry to the island. Then a steady drive for 160 km on the A79-M79 (Calder Highway) to Melbourne, the road getting wider and busier as it approached Victoria's state capital. Goldfields gave way to grazing country, suffering from drought.

Broke the journey to lunch by the river at KYNETON and posted a reply package to Mum in England (which took exactly one week to arrive). Made good progress until we hit the Melbourne Tollway near the airport at Essendon, about which strangers and foreigners need pre-knowledge. This 'City Link' provides '22 km of automated tollway to make getting round Melbourne quick and easy' (quote from the leaflet we only got later)! Signs simply warned of large fines for continung without a pass, so we swiftly took the exit road and eventually found our way through the Central Business District, across the Yarra River and so to ST KILDA, Melbourne's seaside. Following the coast westwards brought us to PORT MELBOURNE, where the 'Spirit of Tasmania' ferry was docked. All this without a single roadsign indicating the way to port or ferry. It would certainly have been worth the $A10 day-pass to use the tollway, had we only known that you can pay before or up to 3 days afterwards at any post office, Coles supermarket, Shell Station or newsagent in the area, or by ringing 132629 or online at www.citylink.com.au    

Driving through Melbourne was a culture-shock after months of quiet roads and free parking. Stopping anywhere along the sea-front to eat, even after dark, meant a $A2 parking fee. At 7.30 pm the ferry opened for boarding, all very smoothly organised with thorough security checks (no explosives under the bonnet, gas bottle turned off, no firearms or dangerous fruit and vegetables?) The boat (one of a fleet of 3, sailing from Melbourne or Sydney to Devonport on the north coast of Tasmania) is a fine new vessel built in Finland. It sailed promptly at 9 pm.

The Apex fare (booked at least 2 weeks ahead) for low season cost us a total of $A524, comprising $A252 return per person plus $A20 return for the motorhome (cars go free). This included a very comfortable 2-berth en-suite cabin. Info and reservations on freefone 1800 634906 or at www.spiritoftasmania.com.au

May 18/19 (322 km)                 STANLEY, Cabin & TP ($A18) – Big 4

Into Devonport, out to Tasmania's western point and return to Stanley

Ferry docked promptly at 7 am in bright sunshine. Made breakfast by the harbour in DEVONPORT, at the mouth of the River Mersey, then shopped to replace the fruit and vegetables we were not allowed to import. (A Quarantine Officer had checked our fridge on landing, while sniffer dogs in smart green coats stood by!) A modern sculpture of poppy heads drew our attention to one of Tasmania's important crops – opium poppies for the licit medical drugs industry. It's also known as the Apple Isle, and supplies thirsty Australians with hops for their beer. There are some advantages to a more temperate climate!

Began our tour by driving west along the Bass Highway, leaving it to take in small coastal settlements such as PENGUIN (yes, they nest there).

Beyond the logging town of SMITHTON the road turned inland across the island's NW corner, through woods and pastureland devoid of habitation. Passed the tourist attraction (?) at the Dismal Swamp Nature Reserve and out to MARRAWAH on the west coast. There was free camping by Green Point Beach for a few long-stay surfers.  

Down the coast, a track led to Tasmania's western point but it was too rough for the Maui and too far to walk, so we headed back through the forests to Smithton. As dusk fell and the warm daytime temperature dropped, a ghostly ground mist enveloped the fields and cattle. Smoke from bush fires added to the eeriness.

It was dark by the time we drove the few miles along the peninsula to STANLEY, a delightful historic town huddled round its bay in the shelter of 'The Nut'.

Waking next morning, we saw what a lovely position we were in, right by the shore, near the harbour and the base of The Nut (accessible by chairlift or short sharp climb). Ever keen to get some exercise (and save a few dollars and spare ourselves vertigo), we climbed the hair- pinning path to the summit of the volcanic plug which rises 500 feet sheer, surrounded by the sea on 3 sides. A footpath runs round the 2 km circuit of the flat top, with views which did meet the description 'spectacular'. Stanley claims the freshest air and cleanest water in the world, and who are we to argue? Total walking, up-round-down, about 3 miles but most exhilarating!

On our descent, M asked in the post office where we might find internet/email. Seeing her walking stick, the postmaster said 'At the Visitor Centre, but it's too far on foot'. It was about half a mile on the flat, so we made it but didn't stay long at $A8 per hour on a slow machine!

May 20 (82 km)                        WYNYARD, Beach Retreat TP ($A18)

A wet afternoon in Wynyard

Returned eastwards along the north coast, detouring to the Rocky Cape National Park and then to the Table Cape historic lighthouse overlooking a blustery coastline. WYNYARD, a fishing town, offered necessary civilisation in the form of Woolworths supermarket and fuel, a dump point, a choice of 2 beach-side caravan parks and – best of all – a Community Online Centre (COC) housed in the Library.

Located throughout the island, run largely by volunteers with government management and funding, these Centres offered modern fast equipment, helpful assistance and a small charge on a half-hourly basis. No need to book ahead, no noisy kids playing games, no smoke …

As heavy rain had set in, we spent a useful afternoon in the COC, directing all new MMM reader enquiries to the information on our website! Then retreated for shelter in the nearest caravan park, right on the beach.

May 21 (147 km)                      CRADLE MOUNTAIN TP ($A25.20) – Big 4

A scenic drive and a dark wet night

After heavy overnight rain it was cool and cloudy for the drive to Cradle Moutain. After 8 km east along the coast, we turned south at SOMERSET on the Cam River. The Murchison Highway (A10), a narrow twisting road, climbed steadily through heavily forested, damp hills. At a rest area in the HELLYER GORGE we let a convoy of traffic past, including a retired couple in a campervan proclaiming themselves 'Old and Restless'. The air was saturated, the shelter thick with moss.

At the next crossroads we detoured right for 6 km to WARATAH, to lunch in the centre of the old tin-mining town. The little waterfall once powered the first hydro-electrical lighting to an industrial site in Australia. A pleasant village, with a caravan park and golf course, but not a soul to be seen.

Back to the Highway for another 16 km, then a left turn towards Sheffield. The well-watered road crossed a 930 m pass in the Black Bluff Range, before passing the northern entrance to the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park after about 50 km. This is the island's most popular wilderness area, World Heritage listed.

The CRADLE MOUNTAIN Big 4 TP is 3 km before the actual National Park entrance and has 10 powered sites, as well as cabins, a bunkhouse and tent spaces. Notices in the communal kitchen (fireplace and logs provided) warns of thieving possums and asks visitors not to feed the wallabies, as processed food condemns them to a disease called Lumpy Jaw.

The Cradle Information Centre, just past this campground, sells the Tasmanian National Parks pass ($A20 per vehicle per day, or $A50 for up to 8 weeks). We had already purchased one on the ferry, but no-one inspected it (though spot checks could result in a fine). The leaflets we collected describe various day walks, as well as the 80 km Overland Track to Lake St Clair, which takes about a week. The bitumen continues for 2 km to the larger Visitor Centre, with a well-stocked outdoor shop, displays about the National Park, a short video of Cradle Mountain (in case it's hidden in cloud!) and a 20-minute circular board-walk through rainforest to Pencil Pine Falls (to whet – or wet – our appetite).

It's another 7 km to the end of the road at the Dove Lake car park. Visitors are encouraged to leave their cars at the Information or Visitor Centres and take the free shuttle bus, to ease congestion on the narrow road. It runs every half hour, 8 am to 4.30 pm, in the low season (and daily mid-Sept to mid-May), stopping at 2 trailheads on the way to Dove Lake.

Back to the campground just as heavy rain set in. Tucked away in the forest as night fell, with only one neighbouring van, it felt very wild and remote. Stepping out of our van after dark, Margaret tripped and grazed a knee on the gravel. She cleaned it in the shower, applied a plaster and thought no more of it (but see later!)

May 22 (171 km)                         STRAHAN CP ($A20)

The Dove Lake Circuit Walk, dodging the rain, then on to the west coast

Woke to find it cold and bright, but not raining. The radio reception was surprisingly good, so Macca's 'Australia All Over' accompanied our Sunday ritual porage. A pretty Tasmanian Pademelon (forest wallaby) was foraging in the bushes by our door but got no reward for posing for a photo – we'd read the notices!

WE 'rugged up' as the Aussies say (warm clothes), drove 9 km to the Dove Lake car park, drank more coffee and finally set off on the 3-hour 6-km circuit of the lake (the longest permitted walk which didn't involve overnight huts or mountaineering!) The National Park covers Tasmania's highest land, a wilderness of lakes, tarns, boggy alpine moors and craggy peaks including Mt Ossa, 1617 m. Access for walkers is restricted to designated paths, often board-walks; exploration is strongly discouraged.

Dove Lake, reflecting the jagged outline of Cradle Mountain (1545 m), is a familiar picture-perfect scene. The signboards suggest a clockwise circuit for the best views of the towering spires and we obeyed, along with a handful of others in an assortment of woolly hats. We got to know our fellow-hikers, as we all stopped at the same points to photograph each other. The outward walk, to the foot of the lake, was mostly level boardwalk along the shores, with forested stony footpaths returning, uphill. Miniscule climbers clung to the crags of Cradle Mt itself, disappearing and re-appearing as clouds passed over. At the outset we met a lone Overland Tracker, a young man from NSW who certainly looked the part, from his hat to his boots, carrying his tent, stove and an 8-day food supply. On a bicycle, yes (we've ridden across continents), but on foot with a huge pack – not for us, but we did admire his spirit. Sadly, we saw virtually no wildlife, scarcely a bird.

Reached the car park just as soft rain began and enjoyed our lunch, watching the afternoon hikers arrive, enveloped in waterproofs. Driving back to the National Park exit we stopped, blocking the single-lane road. The oncoming shuttle bus and 2 cars didn't mind when they saw the reason – a big brown furry Smooth-nosed Wombat was shuffling along, our very first real live wombat, close enough to photograph.

We drove back westwards, over the Black Bluff Range, rejoining the Murchison Highway after 25 km. Then south to TULLAH, another former mining town, the wet road running between Lake Rosebery and Lake Mackintosh (both dammed for hydro-electric schemes). Through spectacular forest and mountain scenery, once only accessible by steam train, we turned west via ROSEBERY (old goldmines) and ZEEHAN (once the 3^rd largest town on the island). The working Renison Tin Mine has revived Zeehan, whose silver and lead are long worked out. (Nearby Mount Zeehan, 702 m, was sighted by Abel Tasman in 1642 and later named by Flinders after Tasman's ship). The town has some grand buildings from the 1890-1910 era: the Gaiety Theatre, School of Mines (now a Pioneers Museum), a collection of steam engines – and, of more immediate use, a caravan park and dump point, but we wanted to make the coast before dark (which falls about 5 pm).

The road on to STRAHAN (pronounced Strawn) follows the old railway route, 51 km, with a glimpse of the ocean from a viewpoint before dropping to the town, tucked inside the huge Macquarie Harbour at the mouth of the Gordon River. It is a beautifully situated historic port with 2 caravan parks. We settled on the less expensive one, ready for a meal and a hot shower after the morning's exertion. The rain had stopped and the clear night was cold. We rang to postpone our return ferry by a couple of days, sorry that we couldn't give Tasmania the 3 or 4 weeks needed for a leisurely tour.

May 23 (142 km)  LAKE ST CLAIRE, Lakeside Wilderness ($A15)

Margaret's left knee had become painfully inflamed and was causing difficulty walking. Thinking she'd overdone it yesterday, she took a painkiller and we drove into Strahan to look round the Historic Town. The Customs House, opposite the harbour, is a splendid building now housing the Library and the Online Access Centre, neither of them open on this Monday morning. The free car park had just installed meters, so we paid $A2 to visit the displays in the Tourist Office, which turned out to be closed – a notice apologised that the volunteers were tired of volunteering, in the absence of State funding! Even the adjacent Huon Pine Sawmill, which still cuts wood felled before logging had to cease, was not working.

Gordon River cruises are probably the best way to appreciate this region, sailing to the harbour entrance at Hell's Gates, calling at Tasmania's first penal colony (1821-34) on Sarah Island, then going upstream into the forest to walk among ancient trees. But in the low-season (1 May-30 Sept) there are no half-day trips, only the full-day cruise (at least $A80 per person including lunch) which had already left, and it was raining again and Margaret was hobbling – not a good morning. www.worldheritagecruises.com.au describes what we missed.

We turned inland, just 40 km uphill to the copper-mining town of QUEENSTOWN. Its original links to Strahan were by the King River (polluted by mining waste) or the Westcroft Wilderness Railway (a rack & pinion train, built to carry copper to the port over 40 bridges, dropping 200 m in 34 km, now fully restored as a scenic ride). The drive through misty forests was lovely until the outskirts of Queenstown, where the landscape had been left to the mercy of the Mt Lyell Copper Mine, recently closed after 100 years.

The Online Access Centre in the Library was open for an email session. We looked in the heritage-listed Empire Hotel (1901) with its lovely blackwood staircase, but there were no lunchtime specials in the bar. Instead we got good fish & chips from a take-away and enjoyed them in our van, while rain poured.

The Lyell Highway, towards Hobart, was our onward route for another 90 km, hairpinning steeply out of Queenstown through bare rocks. The sulphurous copper smelting process had taken over where the early loggers left off, denuding the hills. The scenery did improve, as the empty road divides the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park (to the south) from the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park (to the north).

Damp forest and misty viewpoints for the next 91 km until DERWENT BRIDGE, with hotel and fuel, almost at the geographic centre of Tasmania. The road spans the Derwent near its source at the southern end of LAKE ST CLAIR, with a left turn for 5 km to the Visitor Centre on the shores of Australia's deepest freshwater lake (627 ft deep and 2,342 ft asl).). The simple campground has a hostel and a few powered sites. Margaret talked with 2 Israeli girls who had just finished the 7-day Overland Trail, staying in the 6 huts along the way – free of charge apart from their National Parks Pass. However, from November 2005 a booking system will be introduced from spring-autumn, with a $A100 charge per person (in addition to the NP Pass), and a one-way (north to south) rule! For more on this, visit www.overlandtrack.com.au.

May 24/25 (168 km)                     NEW NORFOLK CP ($A17)

A morning ferry ran along the western edge of Lake St Clair, calling at Echo Point and Narcissus Bay to drop or pick up walkers. A guided group were being ushered from the blazing fire in the Visitor Centre and through the rain to the jetty. Margaret was hardly walking and the return trip (about an hour) cost $A25 each, so we didn't join them.

The Lyell Highway followed the Derwent River south-east , passing former hydro-electric commision villages now privatised into tourist resorts: BRONTE PARK and TARRALEAH. We stopped here, after 56 km, for a view of the power station infrastructure and the valley below. Another 33 km along the highway, OUSE was the first town we reached, complete with cottage hospital. Here a friendly nurse bandaged Margaret's knee to immobilise the joint, apologised that it was the doctor's day off and directed us to the surgery in New Norfolk, 56 km on towards Hobart.

NEW NORFOLK (founded by displaced persons from Norfolk Island) is a sizeable historic town 33 km from Hobart. It had a hospital which didn't take out-patients or casualties, a health centre where we could only get an appointment for tomorrow afternoon and a tranquil caravan park under weeping willows by the Derwent. It also has an Online Centre in the Library, where we spent a few hours, and Woolworths supermarket and fuel, where we spent a few dollars. More on the area at www.derwentvalley.com.au.

The cause of the inflammation in Margaret's knee was a bacterial infection, which responded to a course of antibiotics. Relieved that there was no physical damage, she made good use of the walking stick bought for hiking! We had both registered with Medicare (for reciprocal health care for visitors to Australia – see www.hic.gov.au). This scheme gives visitors from several European countries (including the UK) free treatment in public hospitals and reduced doctors' fees at health centres. In this case, the doctor's bill was $A40, of which $A31.80 was later refunded (join and make claims at any Medicare office, in larger towns throughout Australia). Prescriptions are paid for at a subsidised rate.

May 26 (304 km)                         TRIABUNNA CP ($A16)

The Lyell Highway broadened into the busy Brooker Highway and we were soon in the State capital, HOBART, on the Derwent estuary. The dolomite cliffs of Mt Wellington to the west were dusted with snow but the weather was bright and dry at last. Tasmanians complain of recent low rainfall, especially on the eastern side, but compared with parched NSW we saw no sign of drought.

Parking was metered and already full in the centre, even though it wasn't Salamanca Market day on the dockside (Saturdays only). Margaret couldn't walk far, so we drove round to admire the sailors' cottages at Battery Point and the 'heritage' colonial sandstone buildings in the centre, showing the development from penal colony (1803) to prosperous port. A river cruise to the Cadbury factory with free samples and lunch was tempting, but we drove east across the Tasman Bridge, past Hobart Airport and over the Sorell Causeway. The Maui Motorhome depot by the airport kindly exchanged our thin chilly duvet (or 'doona' as they are called here) for one more suited to frosty nights!

SORELL, 26 km after Hobart along the Tasman Highway, is the gateway to the east coast with easy parking, shops and fast food. The Arthur Highway then runs south for 77 km, across the Forestier Peninsula and onto the Tasman Peninsula, culminating at Port Arthur. Eaglehawk Neck, between the 2 peninsulae, was once guarded by a line of savage dogs to prevent escape from Port Arthur's infamous penal colony (1830-77) 20 km away. Detours from the highway on either side of the Neck led to coastal rock formations: the Tessselated Pavement to the north, the Blowhole, Devil's Kitchen and Tasman's Arch to the south: all had to be viewed.

By late afternoon we reached the huge car park, new visitor centre and extensive convict ruins which constitute PORT ARTHUR. Our intention was to stay on the nearby caravan park and explore the place next day, so we went in to check on opening times, etc. However, the 'theme park' treatment of the site as a fun day out for all the family made us recoil. The Model Prison of solitary confinement cells and its adjacent Asylum were advertised as the highlight of the visit, along with a boat trip to the Isle of the Dead . The notices said it all: 'The juvenile inmates at Point Puer had to row to and from their prison home – Our harbour cruise is a much easier way to get there' and at the Felons Restaurant: 'The menu for convicts last century (sic) might be described as coarse gruel – We think you'll appreciate the changes we've made today'.

There was even a torch-lit ghost tour after dark. Having visited such sombre places as Auschwitz and many a Commonwealth War Grave, all presented with appropriate sensitivity and respect, we found it quite offensive. How must those who come here to research their ancestry at the Convict Study Centre feel? Or those who recently lost loved ones here in the 1996 shootings?

We rapidly retraced our route to Sorrell and continued north-east, rejoinng the coast after 54 km at the fishing port of ORFORD. The resort by the ferry for offshore Maria Island (an earlier penal colony, now a National Park) included a very expensive caravan park. We continued 9 km to TRIABUNNA, reaching its simpler resting place after dark.

For more on Hobart, visit www.hobartcity.com. The Port Arthur Experience is described at www.portarthur.org.au or www.portarthur-region.com.au.

May 27/28 (176 km)                       BICHENO, East Coast HP ($A20)

Paused after 50 km along the Tasman Highway in SWANSEA, on Gt Oyster Bay with views across to the Freycinet Peninsula, Tasmania's first National Park. On the way we passed the site of Rocky Hills Convict Station and the convict-built Spiky Bridge. For more on Swansea and its historic bark mill, visit www.barkmill.com.au.

Margaret's knee had improved enough to enjoy some exercise so we detoured 25 km to COLES BAY, the resort on the Freycinet Peninsula, and a few miles further into the National Park. The range of permitted walks was very disappointing: access to the Friendly Beaches meant driving several kms of corrugated dirt road, sensibly forbidden by Maui. The only alternative was to Wineglass Bay Lookout (and beyond), involving a steep rocky track with 600 rough bush steps to climb – still too much for M's knee – or the 15 minute circuit round the lighthouse at Cape Tourville (boarded for wheelchairs). We did that - nice coastal views, but a bit tame!

Back to the Highway and on to BICHENO, a former whaling station, now a popular little holiday resort with 2 caravan parks, boasting its mild east coast climate. The welcome at the Tourist Office included a couple of apples and the larger, better equipped, caravan park was practically empty, giving us exclusive use of the facilities at the touring end of the park. It made an excellent base for our last 2 nights in Tasmania.

We walked the foreshore track round the headland to the fishing harbour at the Gulch, where a horse-drawn tramway once brought coal 7 km from the Denison River mine. The walls of the convict-built coal store remain. Plenty of seabirds, which nest just across the water on Governor's Island. The Glass Bottom Boat Trip, to see the marine reserve and kelp forest, was closed for winter, but Margaret + 9 others braved the evening cold for the absolutely delightful Penguin Tour.

A small bus, driven and guided by Wayne (a well-informed senior armed with 2 powerful torches), left after dusk each day to drive a couple of kms up the coast for an hour's walk through a protected penguin rookery. We saw hundreds of Fairy (or Little Blue) Penguins come ashore after their day's fishing in the Tasman Sea to return to their burrows. The world's smallest penguin, living in temperate waters, they stand about a foot high and weigh in at one kilo. Some burrows were penguin-made, some artificial into wooden boxes with hinged lids. The inhabitants had become so used to the nightly tours that Wayne could lift a lid and show us his favourites: Oscar and Esmerelda, together for their seventh year! Photography was difficult, as flash would damage their eyes and the extremely cold starry night required thick gloves! A very special experience, well worth the $A18. A Japanese tourist asked some alarming questions: 'Are they edible?' – No – 'Well, how about their eggs?'!

May 29 (363 km)                     FERRY, Spirit of Tasmania

A long drive back to Devonport via Launceston

Tasman Highway again, following the east coast for 74 km to its biggest town, ST HELEN'S, a fishing port at the head of George Bay with a serene colony of pelicans. Here we enjoyed reputedly the best fish & chips on the island (local Blue Eye fillets), before turning inland for 75 km, climbing over a misty viewpoint, to BRANXHOLM, where timber and hop-growing have replaced tin mining. At SCOTTSDALE, 25 km further on, there are several timber mills and a new Forest EcoCentre to visit, had it been open. More at www.forestrytas.com.au.

Another 60 km to LAUNCESTON on the Tamar River, Tasmania's second city. Sadly, we had no time to explore it – unusually, we had a deadline, a ferry sailing at 9 pm! Driving the faster Bass Highway for our final 100 km on the island, the amazing blankets of cloud overhead turned through many shades of sunset until the whole sky was on fire, like molten lava pouring across. We stopped several times to photograph the process while others sped by, oblivious – perhaps such skies are the norm?

And so to DEVONPORT, arriving after dark with just enough time to make a snack before boarding the ferry. Despite the stormy winds of the past few days, we had a smooth crossing in an outside double cabin with porthole, arriving back in Port Melbourne before 7 next morning. The only forbidden fruits on entering the mainland are lettuces and some types of flower, so no problems.May 30/31,

May 30/June 1 ( 366 km)                           SWAN HILL HP ($A19)

In Melbourne, with light traffic at this early hour and armed with a map obtained on the ferry, we avoided the complication of the Citylink Tollway by taking the West Gate Freeway and Western Ring. A McBreakfast along the way before 8 am was a record for us! We joined the Calder Highway near Essendon airport, then north to BENDIGO.

Shopping again at Aldi, including greengrocery, we somehow forgot that a few miles along the road we would re-enter the Fruit Fly Zone! In the rest area at its border, we had a second breakfast – apples and bananas, all you can eat – leaving those we couldn't eat on a picnic table for travellers going the other way. There was no inspection, but a threat of spot checks and fines as we continued on a quiet minor road to KERANG, rather than going round via Echuca, visited on our outward journey to Melbourne.

Back in SWAN HILL by early afternoon, we had a walk by the riverside before returning to our favourite caravan park and a warm welcome from Cliff & Joy and Peter Dowell, whose wife Judy was now touring Europe. Two rest-days followed, in which Margaret's knee fully recovered and great advances were made with our website, thanks to the broadband wireless internet connection and support from Bec (and Kev) in Cairns.

The log could be read in conjunction with our Notes on Motorhome Travel in Australia.