May 16 (263 km)                      BENDIGO, Central City CP ($A22)

To Bendigo via the Murray port of Echuca

Followed the Murray Valley Highway south-east. The river's presence was felt in a series of small freshwater lakes, home to ibis, pelicans, black swans and a range of ducks and waterbirds. The largest, Lake Boga, 16 km from Swan Hill, has a WW2 Flying Boat Museum featuring a Sunderland. LAKE CHARM has a caravan park. After 55 km, near Kerang on the Loddon River (one of the Murray's many tributaries), Lake Reedy has a 2-storey bird hide with a powerful telescope, provided free by the local Rotary Club, just a short walk from the car park. We observed a huge area of wetland and redgum forest where the contented birds were all asleep, heads under wings, even the huge pelicans perched on branches of drowned trees.

In KERANG we stopped to buy a map of Tasmania from the RAC shop and found a wheelchair race for pensioners in full flight down the closed-off main street – you never know what's coming off next in small-town Australia!

The lakes disappeared as we followed the M V Highway, meeting the Murray again at ECHUCA. With its twin, Moama (on the NSW side of the river), this is one of the oldest river towns, once the country's largest inland port. Now it's a popular and expensive tourist centre, being too near Melbourne (at least 4 caravan parks). Pausing to walk round in the afternoon sunshine, we were disappointed to find that the whole heritage waterfront, with its massive redgum wharf, steam port and railway, was completely screened by high fences and an entrance fee. This is British history (Victorian in both senses) and we felt that if tickets were needed to enter the 2 'historic' pubs and moored boats, there should at least be open access to the river wharf. The workshops of the blacksmith and the redgum woodworker were sales outlets, but gave us the only glimpse of the water.

So we left Echuca faster than most, turning south on the Northern Highway. We exited the Fruit Fly Exclusion Zone at ROCHESTER, moving into the goldfields of Central Victoria. Our destination, BENDIGO, was the centre of the world's richest goldfield and deepest goldmine in the 1880's and its wealth is evident in the grand buildings, cathedral and wide tree-lined avenues. The Central Deborah Goldmine, worked until 1954, is right in the town centre and still open for underground tours.

Along Pall Mall, the ornate goldrush Post & Telegraph Office building is now the Visitor Centre, from where we were directed to the modern post office over the road, past the decorative 4-storey Shamrock Hotel along Williamson Street. Here our mail was waiting, packets from Margaret's Mum and our friends in Bournemouth. Our first post since Bangkok in mid-January! (Thank goodness for text messages and email to keep in touch.)

At least 5 caravan parks on the outskirts of town but we used the nearest, which was directly on our onward route to Melbourne, though it was overpriced for parking on a bit of gravel! A busy evening reading letters from Mum and friends and sorting the usual backlog from banks, house agents, insurers, etc.

May 17 (207 km)                      FERRY, Spirit of Tasmania

To Melbourne for the Ferry: the joy of Aldi and confusion of the tollway

Leaving Bendigo, we passed an unusual and welcome sign 'Aldi' (a German supermarket popular throughout Northern Europe). We stocked up for Tasmania, except for fruit and vegetable which are forbidden entry to the island. Then a steady drive for 160 km on the A79-M79 (Calder Highway) to Melbourne, the road getting wider and busier as it approached Victoria's state capital. Goldfields gave way to grazing country, suffering from drought.

Broke the journey to lunch by the river at KYNETON and posted a reply package to Mum in England (which took exactly one week to arrive). Made good progress until we hit the Melbourne Tollway near the airport at Essendon, about which strangers and foreigners need pre-knowledge. This 'City Link' provides '22 km of automated tollway to make getting round Melbourne quick and easy' (quote from the leaflet we only got later)! Signs simply warned of large fines for continung without a pass, so we swiftly took the exit road and eventually found our way through the Central Business District, across the Yarra River and so to ST KILDA, Melbourne's seaside. Following the coast westwards brought us to PORT MELBOURNE, where the 'Spirit of Tasmania' ferry was docked. All this without a single roadsign indicating the way to port or ferry. It would certainly have been worth the $A10 day-pass to use the tollway, had we only known that you can pay before or up to 3 days afterwards at any post office, Coles supermarket, Shell Station or newsagent in the area, or by ringing 132629 or online at www.citylink.com.au    

Driving through Melbourne was a culture-shock after months of quiet roads and free parking. Stopping anywhere along the sea-front to eat, even after dark, meant a $A2 parking fee. At 7.30 pm the ferry opened for boarding, all very smoothly organised with thorough security checks (no explosives under the bonnet, gas bottle turned off, no firearms or dangerous fruit and vegetables?) The boat (one of a fleet of 3, sailing from Melbourne or Sydney to Devonport on the north coast of Tasmania) is a fine new vessel built in Finland. It sailed promptly at 9 pm.

The Apex fare (booked at least 2 weeks ahead) for low season cost us a total of $A524, comprising $A252 return per person plus $A20 return for the motorhome (cars go free). This included a very comfortable 2-berth en-suite cabin. Info and reservations on freefone 1800 634906 or at www.spiritoftasmania.com.au

May 18/19 (322 km)                 STANLEY, Cabin & TP ($A18) – Big 4

Into Devonport, out to Tasmania's western point and return to Stanley

Ferry docked promptly at 7 am in bright sunshine. Made breakfast by the harbour in DEVONPORT, at the mouth of the River Mersey, then shopped to replace the fruit and vegetables we were not allowed to import. (A Quarantine Officer had checked our fridge on landing, while sniffer dogs in smart green coats stood by!) A modern sculpture of poppy heads drew our attention to one of Tasmania's important crops – opium poppies for the licit medical drugs industry. It's also known as the Apple Isle, and supplies thirsty Australians with hops for their beer. There are some advantages to a more temperate climate!

Began our tour by driving west along the Bass Highway, leaving it to take in small coastal settlements such as PENGUIN (yes, they nest there).

Beyond the logging town of SMITHTON the road turned inland across the island's NW corner, through woods and pastureland devoid of habitation. Passed the tourist attraction (?) at the Dismal Swamp Nature Reserve and out to MARRAWAH on the west coast. There was free camping by Green Point Beach for a few long-stay surfers.  

Down the coast, a track led to Tasmania's western point but it was too rough for the Maui and too far to walk, so we headed back through the forests to Smithton. As dusk fell and the warm daytime temperature dropped, a ghostly ground mist enveloped the fields and cattle. Smoke from bush fires added to the eeriness.

It was dark by the time we drove the few miles along the peninsula to STANLEY, a delightful historic town huddled round its bay in the shelter of 'The Nut'.

Waking next morning, we saw what a lovely position we were in, right by the shore, near the harbour and the base of The Nut (accessible by chairlift or short sharp climb). Ever keen to get some exercise (and save a few dollars and spare ourselves vertigo), we climbed the hair- pinning path to the summit of the volcanic plug which rises 500 feet sheer, surrounded by the sea on 3 sides. A footpath runs round the 2 km circuit of the flat top, with views which did meet the description 'spectacular'. Stanley claims the freshest air and cleanest water in the world, and who are we to argue? Total walking, up-round-down, about 3 miles but most exhilarating!

On our descent, M asked in the post office where we might find internet/email. Seeing her walking stick, the postmaster said 'At the Visitor Centre, but it's too far on foot'. It was about half a mile on the flat, so we made it but didn't stay long at $A8 per hour on a slow machine!

May 20 (82 km)                        WYNYARD, Beach Retreat TP ($A18)

A wet afternoon in Wynyard

Returned eastwards along the north coast, detouring to the Rocky Cape National Park and then to the Table Cape historic lighthouse overlooking a blustery coastline. WYNYARD, a fishing town, offered necessary civilisation in the form of Woolworths supermarket and fuel, a dump point, a choice of 2 beach-side caravan parks and – best of all – a Community Online Centre (COC) housed in the Library.

Located throughout the island, run largely by volunteers with government management and funding, these Centres offered modern fast equipment, helpful assistance and a small charge on a half-hourly basis. No need to book ahead, no noisy kids playing games, no smoke …

As heavy rain had set in, we spent a useful afternoon in the COC, directing all new MMM reader enquiries to the information on our website! Then retreated for shelter in the nearest caravan park, right on the beach.

May 21 (147 km)                      CRADLE MOUNTAIN TP ($A25.20) – Big 4

A scenic drive and a dark wet night

After heavy overnight rain it was cool and cloudy for the drive to Cradle Moutain. After 8 km east along the coast, we turned south at SOMERSET on the Cam River. The Murchison Highway (A10), a narrow twisting road, climbed steadily through heavily forested, damp hills. At a rest area in the HELLYER GORGE we let a convoy of traffic past, including a retired couple in a campervan proclaiming themselves 'Old and Restless'. The air was saturated, the shelter thick with moss.

At the next crossroads we detoured right for 6 km to WARATAH, to lunch in the centre of the old tin-mining town. The little waterfall once powered the first hydro-electrical lighting to an industrial site in Australia. A pleasant village, with a caravan park and golf course, but not a soul to be seen.

Back to the Highway for another 16 km, then a left turn towards Sheffield. The well-watered road crossed a 930 m pass in the Black Bluff Range, before passing the northern entrance to the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park after about 50 km. This is the island's most popular wilderness area, World Heritage listed.

The CRADLE MOUNTAIN Big 4 TP is 3 km before the actual National Park entrance and has 10 powered sites, as well as cabins, a bunkhouse and tent spaces. Notices in the communal kitchen (fireplace and logs provided) warns of thieving possums and asks visitors not to feed the wallabies, as processed food condemns them to a disease called Lumpy Jaw.

The Cradle Information Centre, just past this campground, sells the Tasmanian National Parks pass ($A20 per vehicle per day, or $A50 for up to 8 weeks). We had already purchased one on the ferry, but no-one inspected it (though spot checks could result in a fine). The leaflets we collected describe various day walks, as well as the 80 km Overland Track to Lake St Clair, which takes about a week. The bitumen continues for 2 km to the larger Visitor Centre, with a well-stocked outdoor shop, displays about the National Park, a short video of Cradle Mountain (in case it's hidden in cloud!) and a 20-minute circular board-walk through rainforest to Pencil Pine Falls (to whet – or wet – our appetite).

It's another 7 km to the end of the road at the Dove Lake car park. Visitors are encouraged to leave their cars at the Information or Visitor Centres and take the free shuttle bus, to ease congestion on the narrow road. It runs every half hour, 8 am to 4.30 pm, in the low season (and daily mid-Sept to mid-May), stopping at 2 trailheads on the way to Dove Lake.

Back to the campground just as heavy rain set in. Tucked away in the forest as night fell, with only one neighbouring van, it felt very wild and remote. Stepping out of our van after dark, Margaret tripped and grazed a knee on the gravel. She cleaned it in the shower, applied a plaster and thought no more of it (but see later!)

May 22 (171 km)                         STRAHAN CP ($A20)

The Dove Lake Circuit Walk, dodging the rain, then on to the west coast

Woke to find it cold and bright, but not raining. The radio reception was surprisingly good, so Macca's 'Australia All Over' accompanied our Sunday ritual porage. A pretty Tasmanian Pademelon (forest wallaby) was foraging in the bushes by our door but got no reward for posing for a photo – we'd read the notices!

WE 'rugged up' as the Aussies say (warm clothes), drove 9 km to the Dove Lake car park, drank more coffee and finally set off on the 3-hour 6-km circuit of the lake (the longest permitted walk which didn't involve overnight huts or mountaineering!) The National Park covers Tasmania's highest land, a wilderness of lakes, tarns, boggy alpine moors and craggy peaks including Mt Ossa, 1617 m. Access for walkers is restricted to designated paths, often board-walks; exploration is strongly discouraged.

Dove Lake, reflecting the jagged outline of Cradle Mountain (1545 m), is a familiar picture-perfect scene. The signboards suggest a clockwise circuit for the best views of the towering spires and we obeyed, along with a handful of others in an assortment of woolly hats. We got to know our fellow-hikers, as we all stopped at the same points to photograph each other. The outward walk, to the foot of the lake, was mostly level boardwalk along the shores, with forested stony footpaths returning, uphill. Miniscule climbers clung to the crags of Cradle Mt itself, disappearing and re-appearing as clouds passed over. At the outset we met a lone Overland Tracker, a young man from NSW who certainly looked the part, from his hat to his boots, carrying his tent, stove and an 8-day food supply. On a bicycle, yes (we've ridden across continents), but on foot with a huge pack – not for us, but we did admire his spirit. Sadly, we saw virtually no wildlife, scarcely a bird.

Reached the car park just as soft rain began and enjoyed our lunch, watching the afternoon hikers arrive, enveloped in waterproofs. Driving back to the National Park exit we stopped, blocking the single-lane road. The oncoming shuttle bus and 2 cars didn't mind when they saw the reason – a big brown furry Smooth-nosed Wombat was shuffling along, our very first real live wombat, close enough to photograph.

We drove back westwards, over the Black Bluff Range, rejoining the Murchison Highway after 25 km. Then south to TULLAH, another former mining town, the wet road running between Lake Rosebery and Lake Mackintosh (both dammed for hydro-electric schemes). Through spectacular forest and mountain scenery, once only accessible by steam train, we turned west via ROSEBERY (old goldmines) and ZEEHAN (once the 3^rd largest town on the island). The working Renison Tin Mine has revived Zeehan, whose silver and lead are long worked out. (Nearby Mount Zeehan, 702 m, was sighted by Abel Tasman in 1642 and later named by Flinders after Tasman's ship). The town has some grand buildings from the 1890-1910 era: the Gaiety Theatre, School of Mines (now a Pioneers Museum), a collection of steam engines – and, of more immediate use, a caravan park and dump point, but we wanted to make the coast before dark (which falls about 5 pm).

The road on to STRAHAN (pronounced Strawn) follows the old railway route, 51 km, with a glimpse of the ocean from a viewpoint before dropping to the town, tucked inside the huge Macquarie Harbour at the mouth of the Gordon River. It is a beautifully situated historic port with 2 caravan parks. We settled on the less expensive one, ready for a meal and a hot shower after the morning's exertion. The rain had stopped and the clear night was cold. We rang to postpone our return ferry by a couple of days, sorry that we couldn't give Tasmania the 3 or 4 weeks needed for a leisurely tour.