August 18/19     271 km     CAMBRIDGE MC     (NZ$ 21.60) – Kiwi Group

Farewell to Ohura, east to Lake Taupo and north along  the Waikato

Experiencing the words of the Stratford Bard, 'Parting is such Sweet Sorrow', we left our good friends in Ohura and set off for Matiere (17 km north on SH40), turning east after another 7 km at Tuhua to cross the scenic reserve of Ohakuhura Saddle (9 km of gravel road linking to the SH4). Today we got a superb view of Mt Ruapehu capped in snow from the 1,260 ft summit.

Followed SH4 to TAUMARUNUI, then turned east on SH41 for 40 km, over the Waituhi Saddle (3,000 ft). From the lookout, 140 ft above the Saddle, there is a magnificent view of the 3 peaks of the Tangariro National Park to the south. The road continues almost to Lake Taupo, where we turned north at Kuratau Junction (1,560 ft) with a scenic lookout over the Lake and the raw green volcanic hills studded with the white dots of distant sheep. This is a long, empty road.

At WHAKAMARU we met SH30 and turned north to follow the Waikato River (and a previous cycle route from Taupo) along minor roads to MANGAKINO (where there is a hotel). The route continues through the Waipape Scenic Reserve, past the Waipape Dam and power station and the Waipape Falls. The forests are empty, silent, until they give way to sheep and cattle pasture. We just managed to photograph the limestone outcrops at 380 ft at WHAREPAPA before the sun set. Nearby, black and white cows filed back from the milking parlour and the Rock Climbers' Café was already closed.

We met traffic again at KIHIKIHI (the next hotel) on the SH3, then made our way via TE AWAMATU to CAMBRIDGE. The town has a population of 14,000 and was founded as a military base, being as far up the Waikato as British gunboats could sail. It has an 'English atmosphere', with horse-breeding, polo-playing and mock-Tudor buildings like the 'Prince Albert Old English Pub' - though the university is in Hamilton, 24 km away.

The peaceful Motor Park is in the Leamington area, on the west side of the Waikato River, one km over the bridge from the town centre. Cambridge street names have a literary theme – to find the motor park you follow Shakespeare St, turn left into Wordsworth, past Longfellow and right into Scott Street.

We had a working day, walking into the town to post a few items and cleaning and packing the 'Tui' motorhome which is due back tomorrow. Like the real Cambridge, many young school-children use bicycles to get to and from school. Unlike the real Cambridge, no provision at all is made for them and we cringed as we saw groups of them negotiating roundabouts and a river bridge no wider than 2 cars.   

August 20     145 km     AUCKLAND, Airport Travel-Air Motor Inn     (NZ$ 79.00)

Return to Mangere, Auckland's Airport District

Our last day's drive in the 'Tui' was straightforward – State Highway 1 all the way to Manukau. HAMILTON, 24 km north on SH1, is the country's largest inland city, its population boosted by 25,000 students It has a university and polytechnic, gardens and paddleboats on the Waikato River, a zoo, 3 caravan parks, plenty of shops and accommodation,  even a Sikh temple. See www.hamiltongardens.co.nz.  

Another 20 km towards Auckland is the smaller Maori capital of NGARUAWAHIA (pop 5,000). The name, meaning 'Break open the food pits', derives from a marriage feast held there. At the confluence of the Waikato and Waipa Rivers, it is the location of the sacred burial site at Mt Taupiri and the Maori Queen's official residence at Turangawaewae Marae (open to visitors only one day a year, during the regatta in March). There is one motel and a new 'New World' supermarket (which have appeared in most towns since our last visit).

HUNTLY, 10 km further at the centre of the country's largest coalfield, is also the site of NZ's largest power station, dominating the town (pop 6,900). There is a small caravan park and a wide Waikato River.

The SH1 continues for 100 km to Auckland, much of it a 4-lane expressway, but with unfinished sections and roadworks. It rises to over 700 ft through the Bombay Hills before reaching MANUKAU, where we turned west onto SH20 for Mangere, the township near Auckland's international airport.

We checked in at the Airport Travel-Air Motor Inn on McKenzie Road – a big improvement on the range of motels, lodges and bed & breakfast establishments we have tried round the airport in the past! The South Korean staff are very friendly and the rates include free car storage, airport shuttle and simple email/internet access, as well as Sky Movies. To see the self-contained units, visit www.travelairmotorinn.co.nz.

The 'Tui' motorhome was safely returned to its depot on nearby Robertson Road, a process eased by an itinerant Australian artist part-timing for 'Tui'. Another chapter in our Round the World tour nears its end, with a day or two in hand to explore MANGERE. We found it to be an interesting and under-rated township – unusual within the vicinity of an international airport. A mile from our motel is the shopping centre at Mangere Bridge, with a Library (internet at NZ$ 2 per hour) and an excellent Spanish-run café. There are long or short walks round the lagoon, along the foreshore (with a bird-hide), in Ambury Park (with visitor centre and farm), or up the hill known as Mangere Mountain (a long-dormant volcanic cone complete with crater and Maori food pits). An off-duty nurse we met on the ridge of the 'Mountain' told of Royal Spoonbills nesting on the tiny island below.

A mile away in the other direction is Mangere Town Centre, with its vibrant Saturday morning market, multi-cultural shops, a new sports/swimming centre and a comprehensive modern health centre. With not another European face in sight, we were able to enjoy mingling with the inhabitants and produce of many another Pacific Island – Samoa, Tonga, Fiji, Rarotonga, Tahiti – to mention but a few.