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October 27 279 miles WEED, Trailer Lane RV Park ($24.30) – Good Sam
West to Sacramento, then North by North
The rain had ceased, we woke early (K-Mart opens at 8 am) and were away before 9 am.
West on busy I-50, descending through the low El Dorado hills and vineyards for 30 miles to Sacramento. We had no desire to explore California's state capital, with a population of 417,711 and an elevation of just 20 ft. The interstates took us smoothly through the city for another 10 miles before we turned north on I-5. We passed Sacramento International Airport 11 miles further on, just before crossing the Sacramento River, and finally escaped the metropolis.
Woodland (population 52,000, height 32 ft) looked like a huge new housing development set amidst vast fields of grain, though a sign pointed to a 'Historic District' which we found hard to imagine, as we passed industrial estates in another kind of desert.
Cruise control set at 55 mph, we continued north (even overtaking a freight train – nice to pass something!) We stopped for petrol at Zamora, 70 miles from Placerville, after which this Central Valley of California turned to serious farming. We saw fields of fluffy white cotton, plantations of almond trees, olive groves, sheep and goats – all of which might have reminded us of Greece had the landscape not been so flat and open. This is one of the world's most productive farming areas, yet it looks somehow barren, devoid of charm.
We noticed many large (and we mean large) RV's heading south on the opposite carriageway, usually towing a car behind – the Snowbird Migration has begun. As we passed between the Delvan and the Sacramento National Wildlife Refuges, we saw 3 pelicans sharing the water with the wildfowl, and hills began to rise to the west.
There were regular Rest Areas, with toilets and picnic tables, and we paused for lunch just after Corning, the 'Olive City', now at 285 ft, with a record 154 miles since breakfast!
Our next stop, 47 miles along, was at the excellent RV-Center (next to Green Acres RV park) in the south side of Redding, just off I-5. We found the remaining items on our RV shopping list (and a few more!), then rejoined the Interstate north. Over the next 5 miles were a succession of RV dealers, all with plenty of shiny white vehicles, mostly with slide-outs (the living space expands widthways!)
The road climbed to 1,215 ft as it crossed the Shasta Lake (held back by the USA's second highest concrete dam). The water was very low. Back among forests and mountains, we felt more at home. A sign warned of bears crossing! There were plenty of RV Parks along this migration route and we turned off at Mt Shasta City (at 3,500 ft and 268 miles from Placerville) to check the KOA. Again it was overpriced ($28 for a small sloping pitch); again we declined.
Just 10 miles north, we turned off at Weed ('Weed like to welcome you'), its population (3,000) less than its height (3,760 ft), which is a good sign! It's a historic lumber town, less pretentious than Mt Shasta City, with a friendly RV Park in the shadow of Mt Shasta (14,162 ft), its top lost in snow and cloud! October 28/29 263 miles EUREKA, Super 8 Motel ($59.95)
To the Oregon border, then back down the Klamath River to California's Pacific Coast
North on Interstate 5, out of the Shasta Forest and across the Shasta River. In the fine drizzle, a rainbow played over the cloudy hillside where a mounted cowboy was rounding up cattle. After 26 miles, at 2,790 ft, Yreka was the last town in California, with several motels and a couple of RV parks. We climbed for another 9 miles to Anderson Summit (3,067 ft) and on to the Oregon border, 50 miles from Weed, at 3,574 ft.
Just a mile into Oregon, we exited I-50 to turn and re-enter California, following logging trucks south through heavy rain. 11 miles from the border, at 2,060 ft, we turned west onto the wonderfully quiet US.96 – the Klamath River Highway, rightly designated a 'scenic byway'. The road follows the Klamath, part of the 'National Wild and Scenic River System', down through the Klamath Forest to Willow Creek. The autumn colours along the river banks displayed every shade of gold and russet, and we spotted grey squirrels, a grey heron and a couple of deer.
There are small settlements along the way: after 15 miles came Klamath River village (population 150) at 1,770 ft, with a rancher offering to 'hang and custom-cut your game' and an RV park for fishermen. Another 14 miles to Horse Creek (pop 115), with a wooden church and a phone box, deep in the forest where we ate lunch. 6 miles further to Hamburg (pop 280 – wonder where they all live?) with cabins and a fishing supplies store, then 9 miles to Seiad Valley (pop 350) at 1,367 ft with a store and RV park.
The road climbed a low wooded pass, Cade Mountain at 1,748 ft, before reaching Happy Camp at 1,220 ft (and a pop of 1,110). This town declares itself 'Steelhead Capital of the World' (something to do with fishing). We're now in 'Big Foot' country (a sort of Yeti, represented by a large grotesque metal figure).
As the rain eased, we turned south through the Marble Mt Wilderness, crossing the Klamath River several times on new bridges – a superb road. Somes Bar, where the Salmon River turns off, 100 miles from the start of the scenic byway down at 700 ft, has rustic stores and a school – the ubiquitous yellow school bus was just leaving with its cargo of mixed infants. At Orleans, 8 miles further down, a new suspension bridge crossed the ever widening Klamath. At Weitchpek, 14 miles on at a mere 345 ft, we entered the Hoopa Valley Indian Reservation.
The forest began to clear as we crossed the Reservation, then came to Willow Creek (pop 1,743) 44 miles after Somes Bar, at 489 ft, with shops, motels, petrol, museum and visitor centre (both closed). Turning west onto US.299 for Eureka, we had another climb to Berry Summit (2,800 ft), 22 miles later, then it was downhill to the sea – the Pacific Ocean!
27 miles from Berry Summit, we reached the coast road US.101 at Arcata, and turned south for the final 10 miles to Eureka (pop 28,600, elevation 0 ft). Once a rough lumber town and seaport, it is now an elegant town noted for its waterfront and Victorian mansions. See www.eurekachamber.com and www.redwoods.info.
As the KOA camp wanted $38 for place with WiFi, we opted for a room. Competition among the dozens of motels along 4th Street kept prices low and we enjoyed the luxury of baths, TV (ER, 24, The Vicar of Dibley …) and a heated indoor pool and spa. Website and email correspondence were updated and we even got an extra hour, as the clocks were put back!
October 30 103 miles MYERS FLAT, Giant Redwoods RV Camp ($24.00)
Round the Lost Coast Loop and through the Humboldt Redwoods State Park A stroll on the waterfront boardwalk to photograph the Victorian woodwork, including the Carson Mansion (or gingerbread castle), described as 'Gothic Queen Anne style'! It was built in 1866 for lumber baron William Carson, in order to provide work during a slump in the lumber industry, but is now a private club.
Then south on US.101 for 15 miles, where we turned off across a narrow 'historic' bridge over the Eel River, to follow the Lost Coast Loop. 5 miles on is the 'Cream Town' of Ferndale, with more fine wooden Victorian architecture, a museum and a working cheese factory.
The road now became narrow and rough, winding its way uphill for 8 miles to 1,874 ft and a view of the ocean. A 7-mile descent to a farm by the coastal estuary, then up to 803 ft and down again to sea level in the next 4 miles. This is more like New Zealand, with damp green hills, sheep and cattle, twisting lanes and a wild, rocky coast! We passed the site of what was once the USA's westernmost lighthouse, then turned inland and crossed the Mattole River to Petrolia – a village with church and school at 129 ft in the middle of the wilderness, 30 miles from Ferndale.
Following the Mattole River south-west for 14 miles to Honeydew (at 340 ft) involved more hills. Here we crossed a wooden one-lane bridge worthy of New Zealand, and turned north-west towards the Humboldt Redwoods State Park (the largest of California's redwood parks: 60,000 acres). Serious climbing (max 2,726 ft with dizzy views over the forest) followed. We reached the Park entrance (2,664 ft), 52 miles from Ferndale, at 2.30 pm and descended Mattole Road (the only road through) without seeing another vehicle on a fine Sunday afternoon! After 8 miles, down at 280 ft, we were suddenly dwarfed by the Rockefeller Forest section – the biggest uncut virgin redwood grove in the world (they only grow in California). We learnt that these sequoia sempervirens trees live for up to 2,000 years and can grow up to 370 ft. The redwood ecosystem produces 7-9 times the biomass of the Amazon Rainforest (whatever that means – sounds impressive).
Stopping for a short walk among these giants was eery – they are just so high, they block out the light. Even the trunks of those which have fallen are scary – like encountering a beached whale or a slaughtered elephant. After 6 miles of this, it was something of a relief to meet US.101 again – the way out! We took the parallel minor road (the Avenue of Giants) south to Weott, where there is an unpowered campground next to a splendid Visitor Centre. The exhibition includes the 'Travel-log': an amazing motorhome hewn from a 22 ft length of fallen redwood, used to promote saving the redwood forest during WWI.
A few miles further, at Myers Flat (pop 200 and home to one of the 'drive-thru trees'), is the Giant Redwoods RV Camp, right on the Eel River in the heart of the forest. Uniquely, the camping price is net of tax (usually 10% or more) – Humboldt County fought and won exemption from this surcharge on camping, since it's a tax on beds (and we bring our own)! Wish this idea would catch on! We had a peaceful night after a long and dramatic day!
Visit the trees at www.hps.gov/redw or www.humboldtredwoods.org or www.parks.ca.gov. October 31 273 miles MILL VALLEY, Tamalpais Motel $64.90
A long slow scenic drive round the Shoreline Highway of the Californian Coast
The Avenue of Giants (US.254) continued south for 5 miles to Miranda (a school and petrol station), the level road bordered by giant redwoods. Phillipsville, 4 miles on, has a small motel built of wood, like most everything else. In another 3 miles, our road joined
Highway 101, which had run parallel on the opposite bank of the Eel River.
The 101 (Redwood Highway) passed a turning for Redway (just a motel/Good Sam RV Park and a 20-mile dead-end road to the coast), then the exit for Garberville (19 miles from Myers Flat). This 'ville' is a larger town, with Best Western Motel and petrol and propane for us. The Highway then narrowed from 4 lanes to 2, through the Richardson State Park (5 miles of tall timber), followed by some tourist attractions: huge chainsaw-cut wooden sculptures at the Puzzle Place, opposite an RV Park; the Chimney Tree (a 1,500-year-old redwood turned into a tree-house gift shop); a café advertising 'locally raised beefburgers'(!); a woodcarving workshop with larger-than-life bears.
After Standish-Hickey State Park, we left US.101 at Leggett (population 315, elevation 984 ft), 25 miles from Garberville. Here we visited the famous Chandelier Drive-Thru tree in a privately-owned park (entry $5 per vehicle). Cars can still drive through, though motorhomes would lose their roof! Still thriving, despite its mutilation in the 1950's, the tree stands 315 ft high with a base diameter of 21 ft, an impressive sight.
Rather than following US.101 directly to San Francisco, we turned onto the Shoreline Highway, number 1 on our map, which turned out to be extremely scenic, though unimaginably slow going. It began with a climb to 1,488 ft, up and down, narrow and twisting, through endless forest with an occasional woodcutter's business. After 22 miles, we met the coast, 230 ft below, and followed the rocky shoreline along the cliff-tops. We lunched by the Western Union Landing State Beach, with a view of outlying rocks and small fishing boats. Here was a splendid basic campground, with steps down to the beach, but we were hoping to reach San Rafael for dinner with friends. A couple of miles further on is a Good Sam RV Park at Westport Beach, then the village of Westport (pop 238), with charming fishermen's cottages offering bed & breakfast, 28 miles from Leggett.
The coastal road is magnificent, reminding us of Australia's Great Ocean Road but with less (in fact, no) traffic. The next 8 miles led through tunnels of trees in MacKerricher State Park to Inglenook village. Here we saw a pair of bearded cyclists, fully loaded, riding the Pacific Coast Bike Route (from Vancouver down to San Diego). This is a tough section, constantly up and down on a narrow road with no shoulder to avoid the occasional logging truck. (The southern end, Los Angeles to San Diego, we rode at the start of our crossing to Florida.)
Cleone, the next village (pop 570), has a store/RV Park. There is more accommodation at Fort Bragg, the largest coastal town between Eureka and San Francisco (pop 5,500), 42 miles after Leggett. It offers several motels, a cycle shop, fast and slow food, petrol, and the Harbor RV Park by the estuary of the Noyo River. The Skunk Railway (built for timber and now for tourists) and a scenic road both run inland to Willits on Highway 101. We stayed on the coast road, which now became smoother, broader and busier as far as Mendocino (pop over 1,000), a town with fine wooden houses.
On along the Mendocino Headlands State Park Coast and the Van Damme State Park, with less trees and more wild coastal views. At Elk (pop 250), 145 ft above the sea and 29 miles after Fort Bragg, there was a church, school, shop, café and a guest house or two. The road continued to rise and fall, past rocky coves and across river mouths. Manchester, 13 miles further, had a shop, school and extremely expensive KOA campground. There was another RV Park and café at Point Arena, 4 miles on, near a lighthouse museum and several overgrown Victorian cemeteries.
The road had become very narrow and winding again and we sympathised with the second pair of cyclists we passed. More seaside villages with the odd motel or shop followed: Anchor Bay with an RV Park; Gualala (pop 595) with cafés and petrol, 20 miles after Manchester.
Continuing through Stewart's Point (just a store) and the Salt Point State Park, darkness fell. Deer were emerging from the woods in our path and San Rafael was clearly beyond our reach. We turned into Bodega Bay RV Park after a slow 201 miles and phoned our apologies to Sally and friends.
But the drive was not over! Reception had closed and enquiries revealed that only unpowered sites were available, at well over $30. Hoping to find another campground along the coast, we wearily drove on through the evening. Sadly, we saw nothing until the bright lights of Marin City (north of the Golden Gate Bridge)! We had to take a late motel room on the Redwood Highway, 72 miles from Bodega Bay.
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