October 12     133 miles     GOULD, North Park KOA, COLORADO     ($23.09)

Back into Colorful Colorado and over the Cameron Pass at 10,276 ft

In Laramie we had a quick look at the 'historic downtown' along the railroad, then found the Albany County Library (between the University of Wyoming and the Community College), to print a few pages of the format for the first part of our planned trans-America cycle route (from San Francisco to Fort Collins), loosely based on that ridden by Ann Mustoe in 1988.

We left town on the quiet US.287, south towards the State border. The road climbed gently to over 8,000 ft, through sparse prairie with lines of snow fencing ready for the drifts to come. After 30 miles we crossed the State line at 7,579 ft, marked by the usual large signs 'Wyoming Welcomes You' behind us, 'Welcome to Colorful Colorado' ahead. We spent a few interesting minutes talking to the friendly Colorado State Patrolman, Officer Kitzmiller, complete with bullet-proof vest and a holsters round his belt. He told us that the total weight of his uniform (all wool) and equipment was 33 pounds (13.5 kg). He also said that he would continue his chase across the state border, if necessary – destroying several good Hollywood film myths!

3 miles along, a historical sign marked Virginia Dale – a stage station and camp on the overland route to California in the 1860's. We tried to imagine the journey of these emigrants, often detained by Indian raids. Nowadays, Virginia Dale consists of a post office/café (closed) and a white wooden church, serving the scattered ranches. Dirt tracks led off to places like Red Mountain and Granite Canyon.

Another 15 miles to the crossroad at 'The Forks' restaurant and fuel station at 5,914 ft, where we made lunch by a horse ranch. Then 7 miles to Ted's Place, down at 5,260 ft: the junction of US.287 (which runs another 10 miles to Fort Collins) and US.14, on which we turned east. At Ted's Place there is a KOA camp and a Conoco fuel station/store.

On US.14 we now joined and followed Ann Mustoe's route in reverse (read 'A Cycle Ride' by Anne Mustoe), climbing up the canyon of Cache la Poudre ('Hide the Powder'?) This wild scenic river rises in the Rocky Mountain National Park and is good for rafting, kayaks and trout fishing. Private cabins and lodges were not entirely screened by the gold and green trees along its banks.

9 miles above Ted's Place, at Poudre Park (5,683 ft), the Columbine Lodge (camping, food and cabins) is where Ann spent the night after crossing the passes. Ascending through the Roosevelt National Forest, the river banks offered numerous simple campgrounds. The first was 3 miles above Columbine Lodge, at 5,876 ft; the next was 4 miles higher at 6,124 ft, after which the gradient became steeper. We passed 4 more campgrounds in the next 9 miles, at which point, at 6,870 ft, a sign announced 'Cameron Pass – 35 miles'.

Another 4 miles to Indian Meadows Lodge (cabins and food) at 7,072 ft, then Rustic Resort at 7,198 ft – the first of a series of new resorts over the next 4 miles, up to the Arrowhead Lodge Visitor Centre (closed for winter – summer cabins, but no camping) at 7,444 ft. The snow was lying above 7,000 ft.

At  7,750 ft we passed the State Trout Rearing Unit on the Poudre (got to keep the fishermen happy with non-native fish!), just before a row of 5 simple campgrounds along the river.

A treat awaited us at 8,140 ft, where a flock of Bighorn sheep and rams (the emblem of the Rocky Mt National Park) were resting near the road. Looking more like deer, with their light brown fur, some of them wore yellow collars with a number and a transmitter. They are wild animals but were remarkably placid, not spooked by photography or the photographer (Barry kept away!)

Above 9,000 ft the snow was lying thickly, sparkling on the pine trees, but the road was still clear. We reached 10,000 ft at the Joe Wright Reservoir, 3 miles before the top of Cameron Pass. The summit, at 10,276 ft and 57 miles from Ted's Place, is marked by an information board. (It's not on the Continental Divide, but is actually higher than the next pass on the Divide.) The snow was now deep, the wind sharp, and we avoided a small rockfall on the road as we descended, entering the Colorado State Forest.

6 miles down at 9,320 ft was a campground at Ranger Lakes (with some hook-ups). Another 2 miles to the Moose Visitor Centre at 9,065 ft, which had just closed (at 5 pm). Outside is a beautiful life-size statue of a moose, made entirely from barbed wire (7 ft tall at the shoulder!)

Past a couple of places with cabins, then 13 miles below the summit, tucked in the pine forest at 9,000 ft, is an excellent KOA, with fuel and store and the usual log cabins - holder of KOA awards in 1999 and 2004. We were the only campers, but the welcome, the water and the morning coffee were very warm. Bob & Linda told us the passes are generally kept open through the winter, despite heavy snows from November to May or even June! Our only disappointment was the lack of elk and moose – though we did see 2 chipmunks!

October 13     116 miles     HAYDEN, Yampa River State Park     ($21.00)

Over the Continental Divide twice and down through Steamboat Springs

After our coldest night so far – below freezing outside with thick frost and icy puddles – we continued north-west on the US.14. The land was much gentler on this side of the Cameron Pass: meadows with haystacks and cattle at around 8,500 ft, following the Michigan Creek along the North Park valley, surrounded by 12,000-footers capped in snow.

After 18 miles, now in the Arapoho Wildlife Refuge, we stopped at a stunning Scenic Overview, at 8,228 ft. Braving the fierce wind we looked out over the vast basin of North Park, where Native Americans had once hunted game until trappers, loggers, miners and settlers took over.

The small town of Walden, 2 miles further at 8,154 ft, has a few motels and places to eat on Main Street, a library (afternoons only) and a splendid town hall by the Pioneer Museum. Most of the vehicles were horse trailers with bales of hay on the roof, driven by men in Big Hats! The temperature was 47 degrees at 11.30 am.

US.14 now turned south-west for Steamboat Springs, 60 miles away and over the Continental Divide (twice!) Across more high plains, past cattle stations with names like 'Grizzly Ranch'.

We met the broader, busier highway 40 at Muddy Pass, right on the Continental Divide, at 8,772 ft. Turning right (onto the Atlantic side), we crossed the Divide again 3 miles along at Rabbit Ears Pass, 9,426 ft, 37 miles from Walden. Now on the Pacific side, we have crossed the continent's watershed 9 times – this should be the last time we lunch on the Divide.

We continued to climb for 2 miles to 9,575 ft. After another 6 miles, past 2 forest campgrounds, came the West Summit of Rabbit Ears at 9,394 ft. A steep 7-mile descent followed, with a view of Lake Catamount below, then the road levelled for 5 miles into Steamboat Springs, a large ski resort with plenty of motels, shops, restaurants and a Visitor Centre. Steamboat did not attract us (hot springs and a museum with a history of ski-ing?) More importantly, its only RV Park, 2 miles west of the city, charged $32 a night, so we drove on, alongside the railway line and the Yampa River (which makes its way into the Colorado). Visit www.steamboat.com for more.

Hayden, a smaller town 25 miles from Steamboat at 6,370 ft, has one motel, supermarket and cafes. Just 2 miles further, on the left of the highway, is the splendid new Colorado State Parks Visitor Centre/Yampa River campground, at 6,400 ft. Smartly uniformed Rangers explained that we had to pay $5 for a daily visitor permit, plus $16 for camping with electrical hook-up. See www.parks.state.co.us for Colorado State Parks and their cabins and campgrounds. This is a very peaceful place by the Yampa, with new 'comfort station' and laundry, and a picnic shelter and grill by each site. Pleasantly warmer at this lower elevation: 63 degrees at 3 pm, no snow lying.