July 20/21     131 km     WHANGAMATA, Settlers MC     ($NZ 22)

A walk on each side of the Coromandel Peninsula, fine weather, an excellent campsite

Dry weather at last, cool and bright, with the wind from the south. Before leaving camp, we had a 45-minute walk through the Long Bay Scenic Reserve – a gentle climb through dense forest to a giant Kauri tree and its progeny, then down to Tucks Bay and back round the rocky shore of the Hauraki Gulf. A beautiful walk, school holidays, and we didn't meet a soul along the way.

In COROMANDEL town we got the 'NZ Herald' and raided the ATM, but declined a fill of diesel at $NZ 1.35 a litre – fortunately, we had enough to get to Whitianga, where it cost a more normal 90-odd cents (just under 40p in English money).

We drove east on SH25, the road now fully sealed. When we cycled it on a very hot day 5 years ago, we had to dodge the roadworkers' trucks and struggle on uphill gravel sections. Today, we stopped at the scenic lookout at the top (a climb to 1,200 ft from sea level in just 7 km), and met Belgian Isabelle and French Jacques, also travelling in a hired campervan and also on a year's round-the-world ticket. They are ahead of us, leaving in a week for Tahiti.  

After an 8 km descent to TE RERENGA at 135 ft, we saw Whangapoua Bay below but there is no easy coast road along the east side of this Peninsula! Up and down the hills, we finally met the sea at KUAOUTUNU – a lovely sandy beach with a caravan park and a view across to the Mercury Islands. The road turned sharply south, climbing inland again for 17 km to WHITIANGA on Mercury Bay, the main town (pop 4,000) on east Coromandel. There are several caravan parks and other accommodation. We lunched by the busy marina and remembered our previous cycling visit, when we'd taken  the little passenger ferry across Whitianga Harbour to Ferry Landing and ridden on to Flaxmill Bay, Cooks Landing and Hot Water Beach.

Vehicles have to continue down SH25 on the west side of the harbour. After 7 km at KAIMARAMA we passed the end of the 309 (gravel) road from the west coast, which we cycled on our second visit, 3 years ago. We drove on, up and down, through COROGLEN (with a friendly pub), WHENUAKITE (where vehicles can turn back towards Hot Water Beach), then climbed to 750 ft before the steep descent to reach the coast again at TAIRUA, at the entrance to Tairua Harbour

We made a short detour to the headland for another 45-minute walk, up to Paku Summit. A path zig-zags through the bush up the steep-sided volcanic dome (climbing from 330 ft to 600 ft), emerging by a trig point with a panoramic view of the Tairua estuary and the coast, with Shoe Island just offshore and the Alderman Islands in the distance. The freshest air and sea imaginable (the Kauri sawmill is long gone). Magnificent! We watched the little passenger ferry crossing the estuary (a drowned river valley) from Tairua (a historic goldmining and logging centre) to Pauanui (a recent development of second and holiday homes – in NZ such a beach-house is called a bach). We had taken that ferry with our cycles, after fetching the ferryman from his home! Just last week, Pauanui was cut off for 48 hours when the road flooded – though some managed to leave by light aircraft or boat! The store even ran out of fresh veggies – such hardship!

Continuing to drive south, SH25A turned off for Thames at Tramway Gully but we stayed on SH25, with another well-remembered climb to 600 ft before dropping to WHANGAMATA, a surfing resort (pop 4,000) at the base of the Coromandel Peninsula. We had gone right round the weathered chain of extinct volcanoes which form the backbone of the Coromandel, densely clad in sub-tropical rainforest and bush, fed and watered by the rich soil and plentiful rainfall (yes indeed!).

There are at least 3 motor camps here (including a Top 10 HP) but we headed straight for Settlers, where we'd previously taken a cabin.! Henny & Bruce Gibb run a delightful little motor camp, the best we know in NZ, where you can even have a good hot bath! And we had the whole place to ourselves.

We shopped and internetted in the town and got some of our address cards printed at Bartley Graphics on the main street. This required (a) using the one machine that had Microsoft Office Publisher, which (b) also took our USB Flash Drive and (c) a compatible printer. But, (d) that printer had no colour cartridge so (e) a second printer was found and plugged in. However, (f) there was no driver for this printer and the patient shop owner could not find (g) the appropriate CD. Nevertheless, (h) he got a driver from the internet, which, although not quite the right one, (i) worked. He then (j) let us have some A4 card and (k) we printed 3 sheets of cards which were easily cut up (l) on his guillotine! Success! And for all this he charged a mere $NZ 6! We then walked home in the gathering dusk along the flower-strewn beach round the wide bay, filled with islands and surfers.

Lured by the wonderful smell wafting over the fence behind us from 6 pm, we walked round the corner to the town's RSA Club (Returned Services Association). Like the Australian RSL (League), these clubs often have an excellent and reasonably priced restaurant, in addition to a bar, snooker tables, etc. We enjoyed the day's specials (roast pork dinner or local fish, chips and salad), while a party of a dozen members celebrated a birthday, complete with cake, at the next table.

July 22     214 km     WHAKATANE HP     ($NZ 24)

A long drive round the Bay of Plenty, still on the Pacific Coast Highway

Back into Whangamata for a brief email session at Bartley Graphics (we're still trying to arrange accommodation for a 4-night stopover in Tahiti at the end of August – a frustrating exercise!) Then south on SH25 again, still following our previous cycling routes. After 2.5 km, just past the golf course, Wentworth Valley Road leads to forest camping and the start of a long walk to Wentworth Falls and/or Mines (1870's goldmining relics). Both involve crossing stepping-stones and are not recommended after heavy rain, like we've just had.

The narrow hilly highway continues, climbing to over 250 ft then down to the coast at tiny WHIRITOA. We remembered a cycling break here before the road climbs again, inland, reaching 790 ft before dropping through Golden Valley to WAIHI, after 25 km, where the Coromandel Peninsula meets the Bay of Plenty, and SH25 meets SH2. The Martha Goldmine is still working and visitors can peer down into the open pit, 200 m deep, or pay for a conducted mine tour. The century-old Cornish Pumping Station impresses, on the way into town, but is now roped off because of subsidence. On leaving Waihi, SH2 goes west to Auckland, or south to Tauranga – care is needed!

After 3 km southwards, we turned off on a loop to the coast at WAIHI BEACH, 9 km away. We had lunch by the fine ocean beach and walked among the lovely shells, left by the ebbing tide. A wooden staircase leads up to a viewing platform on the cliff and there is also a longer walk to Orakawa Bay, but the caravan park we remembered seems to have disappeared under seaside development.

Regaining the SH2, we drove south for another 10 km, through a fruit-growing region (rhubarb, citrus, avocados and vines) to KATIKATI (pop 3,000). The SH2 along here is notoriously busy and we passed many exhortations to Slow Down and a chilling number of white wooden crosses by the bends, with names like Justin and Damian, side by side in death as they had been on their motorbikes or in a car. For cyclists, there is at least a narrow shoulder on the road.

The highway bypasses TAURANGA, the bridge at the southern end of Tauranga Harbour becoming an Expressway. This city (pop 78,000) is the largest on the Bay of Plenty coast and is an important Maori site from the 1860's Land Wars' Battle. www.tauranga.govt.nz for visitor information. We had camped there in the past, but carried on now, through TE PUKE (= the hill), the Kiwifruit Capital of the World, where you can visit a Kiwifruit Theme Park!

At PAEGAROA, SH33 turned off for Rotorua and SH2 became quieter – a great relief. If cycling, a better route to Rotorua is to take the (part unsealed) Pyes Pa road from Tauranga, through the forest, as we did 5 years ago.

We remained on SH2 along the coast to MATATA, where it turned inland and we drove on a minor road for the last 20 km to WHAKATANE.  A sizeable town (pop 18,000) on a river estuary, it claims to have been the first Maori landing place. The shops were open late for the weekend Midwinter Festival, which started with a firework display at 9 pm. We watched the sky light up from inside the motorhome (it was a cold clear night), parked on the town's only caravan park on the river, a short walk along the embankment from the town centre. We'd taken a simple cabin here when cycling.

The Visitor Centre on Quay Street supplied us with the extremely useful (free) guide book to the next section of our journey: 'Traveller's Guide to the Pacific Coast Highway – Whakatane, Opotiki, East Cape, Gisborne, Wairoa'. Very useful, for drivers and cyclists alike. More information at www.whakatane.com.

July 23     74 km    OPOTIKI HP     ($NZ 24)

Round Ohiwa Harbour to Opotiki, as East Cape looms ahead

After shopping in Whakatane (a lightweight tripod for the new camera in the Midwinter Sales), we climbed steeply out of the town up Hillcrest (not suitable for towing caravans!) At the first viewpoint (160 ft up) we met the top of the flight of steps up which we'd pushed our loaded bicycles on our previous visit. The road then climbs higher, leaving the housing behind, reaching a maximum of 410 ft, with great views of Whakatane Heads. Down to sea level again at OHOPE BEACH, after just 7 km. A spit of land stretches 11 km to the east, separating the beach from Ohiwa Harbour, ending at Port Ohope, with boat ramp, golf club and Top 10 HP. We walked along the sand, alone with the driftwood and seagulls on this 'world-class' surfing beach.

Back to Ohope to drive inland round the extensive harbour and its oyster farm, meeting SH2 again at Matekerepu Bridge. At KUTARERE we turned off for a scenic loop round the eastern arm of the harbour on a narrow sealed road. Despite 'Camping Prohibited  in these Reserve Areas' signs, we saw a group of 4 motorhomes 'freedom-camping' by the estuary, where NZ's most southerly mangroves grow. Lunch and a walk on the beach at Ohiwa Reserve, where there is also a Family Holiday Park. Very bracing – the only camper we met was 'rugged up' in boots and woolly hat - even her poodle had a coat on!

Back on SH2 and along Waiotahi Beach, past Island View Caravan Park. The island in view is White Island, an active volcano 48 km out in the Bay of Plenty. The sulphur phosphate factory, built in 1899, has closed down and the island is left to the gannet colony and those who brave a 6-hour boat trip/guided walk from Whakatane – see www.whiteisland.co.nz. On our previous 2 visits, cycling round East Cape, White Island constantly emitted steam, a cloud hovering over it, but this year it appears dormant.

For the last few miles the road turned inland through the Kukumoa Cutting, then crossed the long bridge over the Waioeka River into OPOTIKI on the harbour inlet. See www.eastlandnz.com for information. This is the last town before Gisborne, which can be reached by following SH35 round the East Cape (335 km) or by cutting across through the Waioeka Gorge on SH2 (144 km). Opotiki is the last place with a choice of shops, the place to fill the fuel tank and to stay the night at the comfortable holiday park, which also has motel units and YHA hostel.

We'd stayed before and remembered Amanda, who runs it with husband Paul. She left her native England over 20 years ago to work (as a dentist) in Papua New Guinea for 14 years. It's a fine campsite, apart from the incredibly slow coin-in-the-slot internet facility. These machines are strictly for a brief look at incoming email! (20 minutes to get into Hotmail must be some kind of record!)

July 24     212 km    TE KAHA HP     ($NZ 22)

Up the Waioeka Gorge to Matawi and back, then along East Cape to Te Kaha

First we drove half-way to Gisborne on SH2, then returned to OPOTIKI, in order to follow the Waioeka River up its 58 km long gorge.

Just 7 km from Opotiki, the road enters the Waioeka Gorge Scenic Reserve (NZ's largest scenic reserve). After another 18 km, now at 250 ft above sea level, we stopped for a 10-min walk to see the historic wooden Tauranga Bridge, which replaced an earlier one in 1924 (to carry stock and pedestrians over the river). It was restored 10 years ago and now has a load limit of 10 people. The 3-hour Tauranga Track walk starts from the other side, through dense bush – farming is long abandoned on these steep hillsides.

22 km further on, having risen to 645 ft, the highway crosses the Manganuku Bridge. On the left, beside the river, is a DOC forest campground (a simple clearing with toilets and fireplaces). There was once an honesty box in which to deposit $NZ 7 per group, but it has been broken off (so much for honesty!) We took a short walk through the woods to see the old main highway bridge – another narrow wooden structure. Hard to believe it was in use for all traffic until the road was realigned in 1965.

The road finally climbs out of the river gorge, up and over Trafford Hill. The summit, 57 km from Opotiki, is at 2,353 ft. The landscape broadened into sheep and cattle pasture as we crossed the headwaters of the Motu River and arrived in MATAWI. This village, at 1,750 ft, is exactly 72 km from either Opotiki or Gisborne and has a store and a hotel. We made lunch, then turned back to OPOTIKI.

Taking the SH35 Pacific Coast Highway eastwards from Opotiki, we followed our cycle route round the hauntingly remote East Cape. After 6 km, we paused at TIROHANGA, outside the beach motor camp and store, to talk to the occupants of a motorhome called Cheibe Schőn. Arthur Schűler and his wife are originally Swiss, and the name is dialect for Bloody Good! They invited us to drop in to their White Cross Orchard on the way to Rotorua, should we pass that way.

The coast road continues through timber milling and farming country, rich in Maori history and pa (fort) sites. It frequently climbs round rocky inlets and drops to sandy coves – most frustrating when cycling but wonderful for coastal views. There is another camping ground at OPAPE Beach, then an ascent to 230 ft before dropping to TORERE Bay. Climbing the hill again, we photographed the intricately carved Whakairo Gateway to Torere School (enough to give the mixed infants nightmares!)

Down again to Hawai Beach, covered in driftwood – huge bleached trunks and branches, like the skeletons of trees. There is a simple campground for tents. A serious climb follows, with a lookout at 390 ft  and another at the summit of Maraenui Hill (630 ft). Descending, the road runs inland for several miles to bridge the mighty Motu River (rising near Matawi, it runs 110 km to the sea, popular for jet-boating and kayaking in summer). After WHITIANGA Bay, we climb again to 250 ft, then drop to OMAIO (57 km from Opotiki). There is a general store and tearooms on the main road, where a side road turns left to the Omaio Reserve, with a wonderfully carved gateway on the Marae (Maori community centre). Tent camping is possible here.

TE KAHA, 70 km from Opotiki, has a well-run holiday park/motel/store/café, which has provided a welcome overnight in the past when cycling from Opotiki or Tirohanga. And so it did tonight, when we were the sole occupants of the grassy camping area, well hidden behind huge shelter-hedges. Owner Tim Brown thought us brave to come in mid-winter but the micro-climate here is actually very mild, about 60 degrees F and dry. Frost is uncommon and snow extremely rare – much like winter by the Greek coast. Indeed, the seascapes and the orange trees and the stock wandering on the road are very reminiscent of the Peloponnese. Hard to say which of the two is our favourite country.