Another climb to WHANGAPARAOA at 390 ft, going inland past Cape Runaway (inaccessible by road). This area saw one of the first Maori canoes land, around 1350 AD. Now it is sparsely populated, with a little farming and forestry. At POTAKA, with a school and a marae, a 4 km lane leads to LOTTIN POINT and we turned off for lunch by the shore. Little did we know that the recent sealing of the road was only half finished and that it would climb to 424 ft before hairpinning seawards, past the exclusive Motel to a rocky cove. Gravel roads in this country are alarmingly banked on the bends, hazardous to both sliding bicycles and wallowing motorhomes! It was a tricky drive, rewarded with good photos and solitude.

The road met the coast again at HICKS BAY (named after Cook's 2nd lieutenant on the 'Endeavour'). We went out to the old wharf and derelict freezer works  (abattoir) at the western end of the bay, which once served the sheep and cattle stations. There is still a village store, a small settlement and a backpackers' lodge around the eastern Horseshoe Bay. A steep climb out, with a viewpoint at 128 ft and the Hicks Bay Motel overlooking the bay.

The hill reaches 440 ft before dropping to Tokata Flats, leading to Te Araroa Holiday Park. Mid-way between Opotiki and Gisborne, and the nearest caravan park to the East Cape Lighthouse, many travellers pause here (as we did on our 2 cycle rides round East Cape). Set among extensive gardens and trees, with access to the beach, a shop and 'the world's easternmost cinema' it was once delightful. However, the projectionist is long dead, the friendly old couple we knew had retired 2 years ago, and it seems the facilities have not been cleaned since. All that hasn't gone backwards is the price!

From here, it is another 6 km to TE ARAROA village, nestled under the sandstone cliffs, home to the country's (and therefore the world's) largest Pohutukawa tree (in the school grounds)! The SH35 turns sharply south here (for Gisborne), but a mostly unsealed road continues east through farmland along the coast for 20 km to East Cape Lighthouse. We drove out to re-visit this landmark before returning to the caravan park for the night.

The sign near the car park warns of a steep 25-minute climb (up 470 ft, with 800 steps spiralling up the hillside, emerging suddenly from the bush at the base of the iron lighthouse). It was built in 1900 on East Island, visible just off-shore, but moved in 1922 after earthquakes. The keeper was withdrawn in 1985 when the light was fully automated (now visible for 35 km). Its longitude of 178 degrees 32.9 mins shows how far east we are – on a clear day, you can see yesterday! Latitude 37 degrees 41.5 mins, for those geographically inclined.

We did find the ascent less strenuous than 5 years ago (admittedly, on that occasion we had cycled there and back as well). We certainly slept well, both times!

July 26/27    195 km    GISBORNE, Waikanae Beach HP  ($NZ 21.60) – Kiwi Group

Down the east coast of Eastland, in the shadow of Captain Cook, to Sunrise City

Taking the Pacific Coast Highway (SH35) south for 30 km to Tikitiki  involves several climbs through forested farmland. First an abrupt rise from sea level to 335 ft (and down again) on leaving Te Araroa, over the edge of the East Cape headland, followed by 2 more climbs reaching maximum 705 ft – cyclists notice these things!

At TIKITIKI, we paused at St Mary's Church. On previous visits we had admired the Maori craftwork of the splendid interior – the wooden carvings, the pulpit, the woven raffia panels. Sadly, we found the church now locked (according to the Pacific Coast Highway booklet, guided tours are available by arrangement with Ngati Porou, the great landowning tribe of this area). The church was built soon after WWI and has a memorial to Sir Apirana Ngata, famous Maori Statesman and MP (portrayed on the $50 note) who lived in Ruatoria, as well as a splendid War Memorial on the hill behind. The village itself, on the Waiapu River Valley, seems to be in serious decline. The Co-operative Dairy building is long derelict and the shop we remembered is now shuttered. There is an RSA Club, a garage and a simple caravan park in a field.

After 20 km, we took a short side-trip to RUATORIA, the largest town since Opotiki and a centre for the outlying farms and settlements of Ngati Porou. Here there are busy shops, hotel, police, school – and not a sign of tourism! The area is dominated by the outline of Mt Hikurangi, the highest non-volcanic peak on North Island (1754 metres), a sacred place to the Maori. There is a hint of snow at the top, despite this being the first place in NZ to see the sun each morning.
Back on the highway, after the Ruatoria turning, is the Blue Boar Bar and Cafι, which had been a very welcome sight when cycling. Over the next 18 km, the road climbs to over 800 ft, where a rest area is a good place for photos of the back of Mt Hikurangi. Another 7 km to TE PUIA SPRINGS, a one-time thermal resort at 780 ft, where we lunched by a small lake. There is a Visitor Centre and store but no camping. The comfortable old hotel (where we'd stayed on the cycle rides) is now for sale, as is the fish & chip shop across the road. We were sorry to see that the ambition of the new owner to re-instate the thermal spa baths had not worked out.

The road climbed again, to over 1,000 ft, before dropping to TOKOMARU BAY 11 km later. Another stronghold of Maori culture, it has a store and caravan park. We drove to the eastern end of the bay, to another old wooden wharf and the remains of a freezing works which closed in 1952. The NZ Shipping Co operated the harbour for a further 11 years but now it is left for the local anglers. A display of poignant sepia photographs showed the heyday, with tramlines to the wharf and wool bales piled high.

This east coast is steeped in Captain Cook's history. As we continued over the inland hills for 36 km to Tolaga Bay, we passed a turning for Anaura Bay, where the 'Endeavour' landed in October 1769 after its hasty retreat from Poverty Bay.  Cook went on to land at TOLAGA BAY, our next port of call, 3 days later (and returned on his third voyage in 1777). This pleasant town (pop 870) has a motel we know well, run by Wally Tukukino, as well as a holiday park down by yet another wooden wharf. This is New Zealand's longest at 660 m, opened in 1929 but no longer needed after the construction of the road to Gisborne. Now in a dangerous condition, the piles are being restored in concrete. There is a 5 km return walkway on the cliffs above Cook's Cove, but it is closed at lambing time, which has just begun. Yes, spring is on its way, complete with daffodils!

For the final 55 km today, we climbed inland again before reaching the coast at POUAWA, just before TATAPOURI, where there is a caravan park right on the shore. We continued to GISBORNE (pop 32,000) and its large holiday park on Poverty Bay, a short walk from the centre. Claiming to be 'The First to see the Light', it is the world's most easterly city and also the site of Captain James Cook's first landing in NZ at Kaiti Beach on 9 October 1769.

On Waikanae Beach, a short walk from our campground, is a statue of Young Nick (the surgeon's boy who spotted land from the masthead of the Endeavour), pointing to the cliffs of Young Nick's Head. Nearby is a statue of Cook himself, standing on top of a granite globe showing the route of his 3 circumnavigations, which completed the map of the world – the end of the great age of explorer-navigators. Just across the river mouth on top of Kaiti Hill is a splendid lookout and an older statue of the Captain – a short drive or a stiff walk up from the Esplanade. This is a Maori Pa site, the scene of the crew's first meeting with the natives which ended in a violent clash, forcing the ship to leave without the food and water they were seeking - hence the name 'Poverty Bay'.

Now it's a thriving town, the centre of a fertile area of farms and vineyards, with a working port (its quay piled with logs for shipping). We took time for shopping (food and diesel), internetting (at a Computer Shop named Xith), posting letters and getting some photographs printed – all needs met along the long main street, Gladstone Road.

See www.gisbornenz.com for tourist information. Camping is also available at the Showgrounds, a couple of miles out.

July 28      108 km     WAIROA, Riverside MC   ($NZ 23)

From Poverty Bay to Hawkes Bay: the end of the Pacific Coast Highway

The 100 km from Gisborne to Wairoa followed previous cycle routes – ridden in a single long day on our first visit, then broken at Morere Springs the second time (older and wiser?)

The road (SH2) is level round the estuary of the Waipoa River, where a flood control embankment protects the citrus groves and vineyards of the plain. After Muriwai, where Poverty Bay ends at Young Nick's Head, it starts to climb through sheep farms and forests, reaching 1,634 ft at Wharerata Lookout. Drivers and cyclists alike stop here, to rest or take in the superb view of the coast and Gisborne, 42 km behind us.

Over the next 18 km the road drops to 124 ft at MORERE. The former hotel burnt down in 1994 but there is still a bathing and spa complex with hot pools, set in an area of lowland rainforest with bush walks. Nearby, the Morere tearooms offer camping and cabins, as well as the restored village schoolroom (used from 1924-62).

The road meets Hawkes Bay 9 km later at NUHAKA, a Maori village with a richly carved  marae (meeting house). The last 31 km to WAIROA (= long river) follow the coast, past Whakaki Lagoon, then over the bridge into the town. Once a river port, its population of 4,500 is 50% Maori. It has a Visitor Centre, good range of shops and a campsite right on the river bank. Sharron and Bill pride themselves on this little motor camp, its excellent facilities including a cosy kitchen with fresh flowers and a bowl of fruit on the table! Very quiet at this time of year, but the photos of the Christmas celebrations show how lively it can get.

'Wairoa – New Zealand the way it used to be' is the town slogan: see www.wairoa.com or www.wairoavic.co.nz for more. Internet facilities were limited to the Library, at an extortionate NZ$ 10 per hour for an extremely slow connection on a single old machine. The way NZ used to be?

July 29      192 km     WAIPUKURAU HP     ($NZ 20)

Over the hills to the Art Deco cities of Napier and Hastings

Found the Post Shop (hidden inside the 'Mitre 10' hardware store) to send Mum a letter (price depends on size of envelope, not weight!) Left Wairoa on the SH2 northwards for 25 rainy kms through the Wairoa valley. Then the road climbed steeply to a lookout over Hawkes Bay at 705 ft. At the summit at 802 ft we had a view down to the estuary of the Mohaka River, its banks forming sheer cliffs. Well remembered cycling this route, now dropping to 92 ft to cross a stream before climbing again, high above the Mohaka, winding through its gorge to RAUPUNGA at 346 ft. The village store had closed down but a picnic table and toilets await weary cyclists, 35 km from Wairoa.

Another drop to 110 ft to cross the Mohaka on a new bridge, by the piers of the old one and beneath a railway viaduct, high above both road and river. Up again to 670 ft, through rolling hills supporting sheep, goats and cattle, along the edge of the Mohaka Forest, then down to cross the Waikare River at 200 ft before climbing to PUTORINO, at 270 ft. This village is half way between Wairoa and Napier (60 km from each) and we had stayed twice when cycling this route. The Waikare Hotel/cafι/bar still offers welcome meals and rooms, though the shop opposite has closed. Today, we had lunch and continued, as the sun broke through. With new lambs in the fields and daffodils along the hedges, spring is on its way.

Another climb to 500 ft, down to 340 ft and under another impressively high railway viaduct, then up again to 670 ft. And so the road goes on for 15 km, making an impressive vertical profile on our GPS, or in the 'Pedallers Paradise' cycling guide we once carried.

The road then skirts the western shore of LAKE TUTIRA (wildlife reserve with DOC forest camping) at 530 ft, busy with black swans and a variety of ducks, sheltered by well-watered forests. After crossing yet another river, there is a strenuous climb round the Devil's Elbow, rising from 400 ft up to 1,120 ft. Finally, the road drops down through White Pine Bush Scenic Reserve, to meet the coast at TANGOIO and follow the shore along Hawkes Bay and its vineyards. Through BAY VIEW (2 Holiday Parks), past the airport and into 'Art Deco Capital'.

NAPIER (pop 55,000) is a busy port and a popular tourist city, with plenty of accommodation and caravan parks, including the Portside Inn (backpackers and campervan park) and a Top 10 HP. There is free parking and excellent toilets/showers by the Tourist Office on Marine Parade, which also organises 'Art Deco Walks, though we explored on foot and saw the architecture for ourselves. (Destroyed by an earthquake and fires which killed 256 people in the area in 1931, the city was rebuilt in Art Deco style.) More on www.hawkesbaymuseum.co.nz or www.artdeconapier.com.

South down the coast for 11 km to CLIVE (with motor camp), then a choice of routes: the busy SH2 via HASTINGS which we took today, or a quieter road through Havelock North which is better for cyclists. They converge at WAIPAWA (with motor camp by the river), having climbed to about 400 ft.

SH2 continues 7 km south to WAIPUKURAU, 70 km from Napier, with a little campground by the Tukituki River where we have stayed when cycling. (Good memories of inviting fellow-riders Karsten & Agata into our cabin to watch 'Saving Private Ryan' on the TV.) No cyclists out at this time of year – we shared the park with a couple of residents and a lone 'Wings' member (the NZ motorhome club), whose home was called 'Just Me & My Old Bird' (referring to the birdcage which filled the passenger seat!) The Australian habit of giving a van an amusing (?) name is rife here, too –another example seen was 'Duz Us'.

The town name, 'Waipuk' for short, refers to an edible fungus. Once a Maori pa site, there is now a population of 4,000 with a good range of shops, library, railway station, cinema – an extremely friendly place, too.