Kilometres:  Let's look at the distances typically involved. A straightforward journey from Budapest to Istanbul, Izmet, Antalya, follow the coast to Izmir, Cannukale and Edirne, then back to Budapest is about 6,000 kilometres. In other words, a long way. That means you really need a minimum of 2 weeks set aside for the whole journey. Three weeks would be better, allowing time to relax and visit more places of interest.

6,000 kilometres uses a lot of fuel, especially if you have a heavy right foot. My advice is to take it easy for the whole journey. The idea is to see the countries you pass through. As some of the roads are pretty bad, and some of the policemen are keen to acquire some dollars, a speed of around 80 kph is suitable. It also reduces fuel consumption dramatically.

My recent trip to Turkey averaged 9.5 litres/100 km. My best was 7.7 litres/100 km. Not bad for a 7 year old 2.5 litre turbo diesel Defender 110, fully laden with camping gear, food, water and 2 people. I claim it's the Land Rover Defender's superior aerodynamics!

Filling Stations:  You do not need an extra fuel can. All types of fuel are readily available and all are usable. If you run out of fuel in Turkey you must be crazy. Filling stations are everywhere. Shell filling stations have the extra benefit of cleanliness and have two types of toilet, the high type and the low type. The little extra water pipe just under the seat is the Muslim equivalent of a bidet and washes the best parts very well. Note that you may find only the water pipe or a small watering can, and no toilet paper.

Which vehicle is best?  Which vehicle should you take? Well, I'm a Land Rover man so I am biased. However, a Defender 110 has certain advantages for expeditions. First of all, it is spacious and economical (see above). The excellent off-road ability of a Land Rover is not very important on a typical trip to Turkey.

The load carrying capacity and flexibility are useful. I remove the seats behind the driver. Then I place 3 or 4 equipment boxes between the 2 side bench seats. These boxes are the same height as the bench seats. One or two other boxes to hold various items and I have a level area, exactly the size of a double air bed.

The air bed serves three purposes: it hides the boxes from curious passers-by, it protects the contents of the boxes from harsh sunlight, and it is a bed in emergencies. For example, you are driving through the Romania mountains, it is dark and raining and there is no suitable campsite available. A lorry park for Turkish truck drivers is just the place. You can park between 2 trucks and sleep in the Defender. There are toilets, even if they are the low type, maybe a shower, but most important there is usually a security guard roaming around all night. For 200 Forint you cannot complain.

Packing:  Try to keep everything tidy in boxes. Old cardboard boxes are OK for a one-off but strong plastic or aluminium boxes are better. Aluminium boxes will last a lifetime. It is important to have everything held in place. Big boxes sliding around are a distraction and potentially a danger with emergency braking. Have one box just behind the driver for items needed frequently, such as a flask to make coffee, drinks and biscuits.

Another advantage of a tidy vehicle is that border officials seem more friendly than if everything is in a heap.

An essential item of equipment is an office. A briefcase is suitable to keep maps, pens, documents for borders and a logbook. It also holds some of your money.

Eating and drinking:  We all need to eat at regular intervals. Eat locally where possible because it tastes wonderful, you will meet local people and it is cheap. However, for your own cooking take a double burner gas stove with a large gas bottle. The blue Camping Gaz is ideal.

Tins or Packets? Tinned food is good but heavy. Don't forget the can opener! Packet food is also good, but you need water for it. Here is where the water balancing act begins. You will need to carry clean water. Generally speaking, east of Hungary, water from taps is not suitable for drinking. Mineral water in sealed plastic bottles is always safe if the seal has not been broken. It is readily available in Turkey.

A most useful tip is to make a flask of hot water every morning. This means you can have a drink or make a packet soup anytime in the day without having to drag the stove out. Do not make coffee in the flask as it is very difficult to keep the flask clean, and you are limited to coffee.

A folding table and chairs sounds like real luxury. But if you have the space take them. Parked on a cliff top, cooking dinner, eating it and watching the sunset is wonderful with a table and chairs. Without them it is tiring and a bore.

I find that two 10 litre plastic containers of water is JUST enough for 2 people for 2 weeks. Remember we would also be drinking bottled water and beer! Also remember that one litre weighs one kilo. It is easy to get carried away and take 60 litres. That is the equivalent of another person, and when containers become empty they also become a nuisance.

Hygiene:  A good hot shower after a sticky day is not always possible. But it is possible to wash in one mug of water with the aid of a small sponge. The first dip of the sponge is for soap, the second dip is for rinsing. It saves water and keeps the atmosphere in the car friendly. Wash at least every morning. Body odour can ruin an expedition for everyone.

For the same reason leave your training shoes outside the tent sleeping area. Check for creepy-crawlies in the morning.

Do not be neurotic about food. Most food in Turkish restaurants and cafes is safe and very, very tasty. Look for the busiest restaurant. The food is most likely to be fresh. But be aware of dangers - even a washed salad can be a hazard. What was it washed in?

Tea and coffee are great because the water has been boiled. The danger is the extra glass of water you get with Turkish coffee. In a moment of carelessness I drank the water and spent 3 days sitting on the high type. Familiar drinks such as Sprite, Fanta and Cola are all safe, as is the wonderful EFES beer from Turkey. Ice is a danger. Many people forget that ice is made from water - don't!

First aid:  In addition to a general first aid kit, take a pack of Immodium. It does not cure diarrhoea, but it stops the process for a while. Essential if you need to drive for a day. Interestingly, the treatment recommended by Turks and backpackers is to drink only Pepsi-Lite for a day. It has no sugar to feed the bugs, replaces lost liquid - and have you seen how it can clean a copper coin!!

Tyres:  People will tell you that snow tyres are for snow and mud tyres are for mud, etc. They also say there is no such thing as an all round tyre. Well, take my word for it, the Michelin XZL gets very very close indeed to being the all round tyre. On an expedition, you are never quite sure what surfaces you will meet. Will it be a sandy beach or a muddy field? Will you have a smooth surfaced motorway or a stony back road? You cannot take all types of tyre, but you can take the ultimate expedition tyre.

Accommodation:  There are many small 'pensions' in Turkey and some very large hotels. But if you are on a tight budget, like me, you will want to camp. I prefer to take a tent and use official campsites where possible. There are many in Turkey and they are not expensive. The September 2000 trip cost 725 Ft per person per day (about GBP 1.50). That includes parking, tent, hot and cold water, laundry facilities, showers and toilets. And most campsites are next to the beach and have a bar.

You can camp rough if you want, and can find a secluded spot. On a trip 2 years ago we were desperately tired and searching for somewhere to camp. It was very dark. I turned down a narrow lane and found an area behind a hill that was quiet, flat and away from any village lights. But it was very rocky so we moved on a kilometre to a reasonably quiet field. In the morning we were woken by a massive explosion. Last night's potential campsite was a stone quarry and they were blasting just where our tent would have been!

I always take a large sheet of heavy duty vinyl to place under the tent groundsheet. It smoothes out the bumps and prevents stones tearing the groundsheet. It's also a place to change shoes and leave mud and sand outside.

Keeping warm is a problem in the Romania mountains, but on a Turkish beach the problem is keeping cool. Consider a light sleeping bag with an extra blanket for flexibility.

Bureaucracy:  At last, Hungarians and Brits do not need visas for Romania or Bulgaria. A couple of years ago I needed a visa because I am a wicked Englishman, who is a member of the EU which is helping to rebuild Romanian roads!

However you will still need a passport and car documents. Keep them safe and make several photocopies of the documents. If you lose your passport a photocopy is a great help. Make sure that you are allowed to drive your car. For example, is it registered to a company? If so you will need several copies of letters from the company saying that you are allowed to drive the car.

You will also collect documents on the way. Here is an exact outline of the paperwork and the costs at each border for the trip in September 2000.

Border Crossings Outbound

Hungary into Romania = 0

Romania into Bulgaria (Rom side) = $11 bridge toll + 20 DM ecology tax

Romania into Bulgaria (Bulg side) = $2 road tax + $2 disinfection tax

Bulgaria into Turkey (Bulg side) = 0

Bulgaria into Turkey (Turk side) = $20 visa + $5 car visa + 1,25 Million TL car papers

Total Cost 19,734 Forint or about £100

Border Crossings Return

Turkey into Bulgaria (Turk side) = 0

Turkey into Bulgaria (Bulg side) = $2 road tax + $2 disinfection tax

Bulgaria into Romania (Bulg side) = $7 bridge toll

Bulgaria into Romania (Rom side) = $8 ecology tax + 85,000 Lei disinfection tax

Romania into Hungary (Rom side) = 6,000 Lei ecology tax

Total Cost 22,296 Forint or about £125

Money:  The above is a major part of the finances you need. You may also ask, where do I get Turkish Lira and Romanian Lei? The Lei is easy. Immediately after leaving the Hungarian Romanian border there is a small house just after the filling station. Knock at the green gate. Try to change only what you need for your journey there and back. I have included a table of where I bought fuel and for how much.

Turkish Lira can be obtained at the border if the bank is open. It will not be open if you arrive in the evening. Do not change money with anyone other than a bank INSIDE the border area even if they have an official badge. The rate will be very bad. Wait until you get out of the border and visit the shops on the left. Do not be afraid to ask, someone will point you to the right man - the rate is much better.

Dollars and Deutsch Marks were the preferred currencies and could be used almost anywhere on the trip. Now Euros are useful. However, use local currency when you can because there is less chance of a fiddle. It's easy to be confused with the extra zeros when calculating an exchange rate in your head.

Split the money between the driver, the passenger and the office. This reduces the chance of losing it all in one go. The driver should have some small denomination dollars or Euro in a separate wallet especially for the persistent policeman and other problem people. 'Sorry, but you can see that I only have 10 dollars and I need 5 for the border.'

Another essential item is a small wallet you can hang around your neck and hide under your shirt. I made mine from an old piece of canvas and velcro. This holds personal documents and yet more cash out of sight of pickpockets. On the same point, both passenger and driver should have a car key on a string which loops through your belt. It stops you dropping the keys in the sand, and it makes life difficult for the pickpocket.