Navigation:  You do not need a GPS to find you way around, but it does help. The whole route is fairly straightforward and Cartographia maps available in Hungary are adequate but not 100% accurate and they tear very easily because the paper is more suitable for the toilet than a map. The biggest navigation problem is that many road signs are difficult to read or not in the right place.

For example, the obvious border crossing from Hungary to Romania is at Szeged. Wrong! That is for trucks only. You have to find your way to Battonya where there is a very neat little border crossing and very little hassle. The Romanians let you in - and then you are trapped!

Next point to aim for is Ruse on the Bulgarian border. The usual route is via Arad, Deva, Sebes, Sibiu, Pitesti and Bucharest. Pitesti to Bucharest is easy on the new motorway. Ignore the crossed out motorway signs. It only refers to trucks. As you near Bucharest the road goes over a flyover just after a cemetery on the left. Turn right before the flyover. This will be the highlight of your trip and you will thank God you have a 4x4. The Bucharest ring road is amazingly bad with potholes you will talk about for years. I hope Romania preserves it and keeps it as a tourist attraction. (Sadly they have skimmed the surface and ruined a great feature.)

You should see signs for Ruse or even Giurgiu, which is the town on the Romanian side of the border. Be patient, the ring road is a wonder of the Communist world.

After crossing into Bulgaria the signs are in Cyrillic, but one name is important - Svilengrad. This town is on the Bulgarian side of the Turkish border. Most of the roads are in good condition and around Veliko Tarnovo there is new motorway. But after Nova Zagora the road deteriorates very quickly and you will wonder what the hell is happening. Fear not, go slow and follow a Turkish truck. These guys know every bump so do not be surprised if they slow down very quickly or weave across the road. Trust them.

(Note: the EU has kindly repaired the main route through Bulgaria and most of Romania. Aren't we kind? Pity the local gendarmes don't think so!)

Planning a route involves more than directions. Think of the time. Try to camp/sleep in Romania somewhere near the Bulgarian border. You will need a whole day to get through Bulgaria and into Turkey. Unless you are visiting Bulgaria of course!

The Objective:  A strange place to write about the objective, and after all this aggravation you may wonder if it is worth the effort. Yes, it definitely is. Turkey is a very beautiful country and has a lot to offer the tourists. The first town you meet is called Edirne and it has several wonderful mosques, a bazaar and a very old part of town just right for a meander on foot. I visit Edirne when I am leaving Turkey as it is very close to the Bulgarian border. Superb place to get your breath back ready for Bulgaria, etc.

On the second day you can take a very good motorway into Istanbul with so many sights to see I cannot include them all. However, a good starting point is to find Aya Sofia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi. All are in the same area near the Bosphorus. After visiting these magnificent buildings take a walk around the back streets and see real Turks doing Turkish things. Also listen for the wonderful sounds of the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer. You know you have arrived.

You can actually park in Topkapi for about 2,000,000 TL. As it is guarded by very efficient looking soldiers it seems a good place.

A simple guide book to Turkey will talk of Ephesus, Olympus, Egerdir, Pergamon Pammukale, Cappadocia and so on. I can recommend them all. I cannot recommend Bodrum, Marmaris or Kusadasi unless you like struggling to find a campsite and really do like the sound of discos in your ear all night. I go to Turkey to meet Turks, not Germans or Brits.

Enjoy the weather. Swim in crystal clear sea and be amazed how warm it is and how many fish you can see. Eat the local food such as gozleme, which is a sort of pancake with interesting fillings. Try pide which is a sort of Turkish pizza, but much more interesting. Yoghourt is excellent and fresh. Of course kebabs are a must and all are safe. Drink the excellent EFES beer, or try a raki, which is aniseed flavoured with a glass of water. Enjoy!

Conclusion:  Planning is important. You do not want too many surprises when you are thousands of kilometres from home. This article is only a brief summary of expedition planning. Ask other travellers, check with embassies and the autoclub for the latest information.

No-one has ever been aggressive to me and no bandits ever came out of the hills to rob me. In fact the opposite has been true. I parked just off the Pitesti motorway to make breakfast. A Romanian policeman drove up and asked if he could help as we looked to be having trouble. Another time three Turkish youths helped me change a wheel and took us to a small hotel where we could camp for free. No money was asked for; they wanted to make us welcome.

I did have problems with one policeman in Romania who said I had overtaken on a solid white line. I had not, and he knew it. I told him that I had no Deutsch Marks because the police at the border had taken them all. However he was welcome to a packet of cigarettes. The secret is to be firm, but polite. Do not get aggressive and do not attempt to speak his language; he knows it better than you. Stick to your own language and you have the advantage.

Turkish police are the most polite you will meet anywhere. They have roadblocks, as in Hungary, but when they see you have a foreign car they walk over, shake hands, ask where you are from and wish you a pleasant stay in Turkey. Unlike some countries, the Turkish police want visitors to remember their country with a warm feeling in the heart.

I have that warm feeling and I have returned to Turkey several times.